CHAPTER XXXVI

.

BOBBIN NET AND MACHINE-MADE LACE.

[Illustration: Fig. 162.

ARMS OF THE FRAME-WORK KNITTERS' COMPANY.]

BOBBIN NET.

A sketch of the history of lace would be incomplete without a few words on bobbin net and machine lace, manufactures which have risen to so much importance both in England and France, and have placed lace within the reach of all classes of society. The subject has been so ably treated by Mr. Felkin that we refer our readers to his excellent work for its full history.[1237]

This manufacture has its epochs:--

1768. Net first made by machinery.

1809. Invention of bobbin net.

1837. The Jacquard system applied to the bobbin net machine.

It has been already told how Barbara Uttmann made a plain thread net in Germany three centuries before any attempt was made to produce it by machinery.[1238]

This invention is usually assigned to Hammond, a stocking framework knitter of Nottingham, who, examining one day the broad lace on his wife's cap, thought he could {448}apply his machine to the production of a similar article.[1239] His attempt so far succeeded that, by means of the stocking-frame invented the previous century,[1240] he produced, 1768, not lace, but a kind of knitting, of running loops or stitches, like that afterwards known as "Brussels ground." In 1777, Else and Harvey introduced at Nottingham the "pin" or point net machine, so named because made on sharp pins or points. "Point net" was afterwards improved, and the "barleycorn" introduced: "square" and "spider net" appear in succession.

But with all these improvements machinery had not yet arrived at producing a solid net, it was still only knitting, a single thread passing from one end of the frame to the other; and if a thread broke the work was unravelled; the threads, therefore, required to be gummed together, to give stiffness and solidity to the net. To remedy this evil, the warp or chain machine was invented, uniting the knitter's and the weaver's mechanism. Vandyke,[1241] a Flemish workman, and three Englishmen dispute the invention. This new machine was again improved and made "Mechlin net," from which the machine took its name.

For forty years from Hammond's first attempt on the stocking-frame, endless efforts were made to arrive at imitating the ground of pillow lace, and there are few manufactures in which so much capital has been expended, and so much invention called forth. Each projector fancied {449}he had discovered the true stitch, and patents after patents were taken out, resulting mostly in disappointment.

The machine for making "bobbin" net was invented by John Heathcoat, son of a farmer at Longwhatton (Leicestershire). After serving his apprenticeship he settled at Nottingham, and while occupied in putting together stocking and net machines, gave his attention to improving the Mechlin net frame.[1242] In 1809, in conjunction with Mr. Lacy, he took out a patent for fourteen years for his new and highly ingenious bobbin net machine, which he called Old Loughborough, after the town to which he then removed.

"Bobbin net" was so named because the threads are wound upon bobbins.[1243] It was "twisted" instead of "looped" net. Heathcoat began by making net little more than an inch in width,[1244] and afterwards succeeded in producing it a yard wide. There are now machines which make it three yards and a half in width.[1245]

In 1811 that vandal association called the Luddites[1246] entered his manufactory and destroyed twenty-seven of his machines, of the value of £8,000. Indignant at their conduct he removed to Tiverton,[1247] in Devonshire.

{450}In 1818 the first power machines were put to work, and the year 1823 is memorable for the "bobbin net fever." Mr. Heathcoat's patent having expired, all Nottingham went mad. Everyone wished to make bobbin net. Numerous individuals, clergymen, lawyers, doctors, and others, readily embarked capital in so tempting a speculation. Prices fell in proportion as production increased; but the demand was immense, and the Nottingham lace frame became the organ of general supply, rivalling and supplanting in plain nets the most finished productions of France and the Netherlands.[1248] Dr. Ure says: "It was no uncommon thing for an artisan to leave his usual calling and betake himself to a lace frame, of which he was part proprietor, and realize, by working upon it, twenty, thirty, nay, even forty shillings a day. In consequence of such wonderful gains, Nottingham, with Loughborough and the adjoining villages, became the scene of an epidemic mania. Many, though nearly void of mechanical genius or the constructive talent, tormented themselves night and day with projects of bobbins, pushers, lockers, point-bars, and needles of every various form, till their minds got permanently bewildered. Several lost their senses altogether, and some, after cherishing visions of wealth as in the olden time of alchemy, finding their schemes abortive, sank into despair and committed suicide." Such is the history of the bobbin net[1249] invention in England.[1250]

{451}We now pass on to

FRANCE.

"To the great trading nation, to the great manufacturing nation, no progress which any portion of the human race can make in knowledge, in taste for the conveniences of life, or in the wealth by which these conveniences are produced, can be matter of indifference."--Macaulay.

Since the failure[1251] of Lee, in 1610, to introduce the stocking-frame into France, that country remained ignorant of a manufacture which was daily progressing in England, on whom she was dependent for stockings and for net.

In 1778 Caillen attempted a kind of net "tricot dentelle," for which he obtained a gratuity from the Academy of £40, but his method did not succeed; it was, like the first efforts of our countrymen, only knitting.

In 1784 Louis XVI. sent the Duke de Liancourt to England to study the improvements in the stocking and net machinery, and to bring back a frame. He was accompanied by Rhumbolt, who worked in a manufactory at Nottingham, and having acquired the art, returned to France. Monarchy had fallen, but the French Republic, 1793-4, granted Rhumbolt the sum of 110,000 francs (£4,400). The machine he brought with him was the point net.[1252]

The cessation of all commercial intercourse prevented France from keeping pace with the improvements making in England; yet, singularly enough, at the beginning of the nineteenth century more net was manufactured in France than in England. At the time of the Peace of Amiens (1802) there were 2,000 frames in Lyons and Nîmes, while there were scarcely 1,200 in England; but the superiority of the English net was incontestable, so, to protect the national manufacture, Napoleon prohibited the importation. This of course increased its demand; the net was in request in proportion as it was prohibited. The best mart for Nottingham was the French market, so the Nottingham net trade took every means to pass their produce into France.

{452}Hayne, one of the proprietors of the "barley-corn" net, had gone to Paris to make arrangements for smuggling it over, when the war broke out, and he was detained. Napoleon proposed that he should set up a machine in France; but he preferred continuing his illicit trade, which he carried on with great success until 1809, when his own agent informed against him, his goods were seized and burned, and having in one seizure lost £60,000 (1,500,000 fr.), he was completely ruined, and fled to England.[1253]

The French manufacturers took out various patents for the improvement of their "Mechlin" machines, and one was taken, in 1809, for making a crossed net called "fond de glace"; but the same year Heathcoat producing the bobbin net machine, the inventors could not sustain the competition.

Every attempt was made to get over bobbin net machines; but the export of English machinery was punished by transportation, and the Nottingham manufacturers established at their own expense a line of surveillance to prevent the bobbin net machines from going out. In spite of all these precautions, Cutts, an old workman of Heathcoat's, contrived to elude their vigilance, and, in 1815, to import a machine to Valenciennes, whence he removed it to Douai, where he entered into partnership with M. Thomassin. In 1816 they produced the first bobbin net dress made in France. It was embroidered by hand by a workwoman of Douai, and presented by the makers to the Duchesse d'Angoulême. About the end of the year 1816 James Clark introduced a machine into Calais, which he passed in pieces by means of some French sailors. These two were the first bobbin net machines set up in France.

It is not within our limits to follow the Calais lace manufacturers through their progress; suffice it to say that it was in 1817 that the first bobbin net machine worked, concealed from all eyes, at Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais, now, if not the rival of Nottingham, at least the great {453}centre of the bobbin net and machinery lace manufactures in France.[1254]

St. Quentin, Douai, Cambrai, Rouen, Caen, have all in turn been the seats of the tulle manufacture. Some of these fabrics are extinct; the others have a very limited trade compared with Saint-Pierre and Lyons.

At Lyons silk net is mostly made.[1255] Dating from 1791, various patents have been taken out for its manufacture. These silk nets were embroidered at Condrieu (Rhône), and were (the black especially for veils and mantles) much esteemed, particularly in Spain.

In 1825 the "tulle bobine grenadine," black and white, was brought out by M. Doguin, who afterwards used the fine silks, and invented that popular material first called "zephyr," since "illusion." His son, in 1838, brought out the "tulle Bruxelles."

BELGIUM.

In 1834[1256] eight bobbin net machines were set up in Brussels by Mr. Washer, for the purpose of making the double and triple twisted net, upon which the pillow flowers are sewn to produce the Brussels application lace. Mr. Washer devoted himself exclusively to the making of the extra fine mesh, training up workmen specially to this minute work. In a few years he succeeded in excelling the English manufacture; and this net, universally known as "Brussels net," has nearly superseded the expensive pillow ground, and has thereby materially decreased the price of Brussels lace. It is made of English cotton, stated, in the specimens exhibited in 1867, as costing £44 per pound.

{454}MACHINERY LACE.

"Qui sait si le métier à tulle ne sera pas un jour, en quelque sorte, un vrai coussin de dentellière, et les bobines de véritables fuseaux manoeuvrés par des mains mécaniques."--Aubry, in 1851.

If England boasts the invention of bobbin net, to France must be assigned the application of the Jacquard system to the net-frame, and consequently the invention of machinery lace. Shawls and large pieces in "run lace," as it is termed, had previously been made after this manner at Nottingham and Derby. The pattern proposed to be "run in" is printed by means of engraved wood blocks on the ground, which, if white, is of cotton; if black, of silk. The ground is stretched on a frame; the "lace-runner" places her left hand under the net, and with the right works the pattern. The filling up of the interior is termed either "fining" or "open-working," as the original meshes of the net are brought to a smaller or larger size by the needle.[1257]

In 1820 Symes, of Nottingham, invented a pattern which he called "Grecian" net. This was followed by the "spot," or "point d'esprit," and various other fancy nets--bullet-hole, tattings, and others.

The Jacquard system had been used at Lyons with the Mechlin frame in 1823-4 for making patterned net and embroidered blondes. This suggested the possibility of applying the Jacquard cards to making lace, and in 1836 to 1838 Mr. Ferguson,[1258] by applying it to the circular bobbin net frame, brought out the black silk net called "dentelle de Cambrai," an imitation of Chantilly. The pattern was woven by the machine, the brodé or relief "run in."

Various patents[1259] were immediately taken out in England and France. Nottingham and Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais rival {455}each other in the variety of their productions. At the International Exhibition of 1867 Nottingham exhibited Spanish laces, most faithful copies of the costly pillow-made Barcelona; imitations of Mechlin, the brodé and picot executed by hand; Brussels needle-point; Caen blondes, and Valenciennes rivalling those of Calais; also Cluny and the black laces of Chantilly and Mirecourt.

The French, by adopting what is technically termed eight "motives," produce their lace of a finer make and more complex pattern. The Calais lace is an admirable copy of the square-grounded Valenciennes, and is the staple trade of the manufacture. Calais also produces blondes, black and white, silver and gold, the white nearly approaching in brilliancy and whiteness the famed productions of Caen, which, by their cheapness, they have expelled from competition. She also imitates the woollen laces of Le Puy, together with black and white laces innumerable.

"Broadly speaking, lace-making by machinery is more nearly like the pillow lace-making process than that of needle-point. The machine continues to twist any desired threads around one another. In pillow lace-making, besides twisting, we have plaiting, and this plaiting has not been reproduced by the majority of lace machines. Quite recently, however, a French machine, called the 'Dentellière,' has been invented to do the plaiting. A description of this machine has been published in _La Nature_ (March 3rd, 1881).

"Whilst the ordinary lace-making machine belongs to the family of weaving machines, the Dentellière more nearly resembles the pillow of a lace-worker with the threads arranged over the pillow. In general appearance it looks something like a large semicircular frame-work of iron--with thousands of threads from the outer semicircle converging to the centre, representing the table or pillow. Over this central table is the apparatus which holds the end threads side by side, and which regulates the plaiting of them. The cost of producing lace in this manner is said to be greater at present than by hand."[1260]

{456}Almost every description of lace is now fabricated by machinery;[1261] and it is often no easy task, even for a practised eye, to detect the difference. Still, we must ever be of opinion that the most finished productions of the frame never possess the touch, the finish, or the beauty of the laces made by hand. The invention of machine-made lace has this peculiarity--it has not diminished the demand for the finer fabrics of the pillow and the needle. On the contrary, the rich have sought more eagerly than ever the exquisite works of Brussels and Alençon, since machinery has brought the wearing of lace within the reach of all classes of society.

[Illustration: Fig. 163.

THE LAGETTA, OR LACE-BARK TREE.]

The inner bark of the Lagetta, or Lace-bark tree[1262] of Jamaica, may be separated into thin layers, and then into distinct meshes, bearing some resemblance to lace (Fig. 163). Of this material a cravat and ruffles were presented to King Charles II. by the Governor of Jamaica; and at the Exhibition of 1851 a dress of the same fibre was presented to Queen Victoria, which her Majesty was graciously pleased to accept.

{457}Caterpillars have been made to spin lace veils by the ingenious contrivance of a gentleman of Munich.[1263] These veils are not strong, but surprisingly light--one, a yard square, would scarcely weigh five grains, whilst a patent net veil of the same size weighs 262.

Asbestos has also been woven into lace: and a specimen of this mineral lace is, we have been told, in the Cabinet of Natural History at the Garden of Plants, Paris.

{459}APPENDIX.

_The Notes marked with an * show that the works referred to have been examined by the Author._[1264]

1.

[Sidenote: 1527. _Cologne. P. Quentell._]

Eyn new kunstlich boich, dair yn. C. vnd. xxxviij. figuren, monster ad' stalen befonden, wie man na der rechter art, Lauffer werck, Spansche stich, mit der nälen, vort vp der Ramen, vnd vp der laden, borden wirckenn sall, wilche stalen all etzo samen verbessert synt, vnd vyl kunstlicher gemacht, d[=a] dye eirsten, &c. Sere nutzlich allen wapen sticker, frauwen, ionfferen, vnd met ger, dair uns solch kunst lichtlich tzu leren.

D Gedruckt tzu Collen vp dem Doemhoff dwrch Peter Quentell.

Anno. M. D. XXXVJJ.[1265]

Small 8vo, 22 ff., 42 plates.

Title in Gothic letters; beneath, woodcuts representing women at work. On the back of the leaf, a large escutcheon, the three crowns of Cologne in chief; supporters, a lion and a griffin. Below, "O Foelix Colonia. 1527."

The patterns consist of mediæval and arabesque borders, alphabets, etc., some on white, others on black grounds. Some with counted stitches.

Quentell refers to a previous edition. Brunet and the Marquis d'Adda mention a copy, 1529, with the portrait of Charles V., and a second edition 1532.

2.

[Sidenote: 1527. _Cologne. P. Quinty._]

Liure noveau et subtil touchant lart et sci[=e]ce tant de brouderie fronssures, tapisseries c[=o]me aultres mestiers qu[=o] fait alesguille, soit au petit mestier, aultelisse ou sur toille clere, tresvtile et necessaire a toutes, gens usans des mestiers et ars {460}dessuld, ou semblables, ou il y ha C. et. xxxviij patrons de diuers ouvraiges faich per art et proportion.

En primere a culoge (Cologne) par matrepiere quinty demor[=a]t denpre leglie de iii roies.[1266]

The same cut as the preceding, with the arms of Cologne, which seems to have been engraved for a great Bible printed by Quentell, in 1527, and is no guide for the date. Figs. 164, 165.

[Illustration: Fig. 164.

METRE P. QUINTY.--Cologne, 1527.]

[Illustration: Fig. 165.

METRE P. QUINTY.--Cologne, 1527.]

3.

[Sidenote: 1530. _Venice. A. Taglienti_]

Opera nuova che insegna a le D[=o]ne a cuscire: a racc[=a]mare: e a disegnar a ciascuno: Et la ditta opera sara di grande utilita ad ogni artista: per esser il disegno ad ogniuno necessario: la qual e ititolata esempio di rac[=a]mi.[1267]

4to, 23 ff., 36 plates.

Title in red Gothic letters; beneath four woodcuts representing women at work. Two pages of dedication to the ladies, by Giovanni Antonio Taglienti, in which he says his book is for the instruction of each "valorosa donna & tutte altre donzelle, con gli huomini insieme & fanciulli, liquali si dilettarano de imparar a disegnar, cuscir, & raccammar."

{461}Then follows a most miscellaneous collection of what he terms, in his dedication, "fregi, frisi, tondi maravigliosi, groppi moreschi et arabeschi, ucelli volanti, fiori, lettere antique, maiuscoli, & le francesche," etc., three pages very much like the pictures in a child's spelling book, rounds (tondi) for cushions, and two pages representing hearts and scrolls; hearts transfixed, one with an arrow, another with a sword, a third torn open by two hands, motto on the scroll:--

"La virtù, al huomo sempre li resta Nè morte nol pò privar di questa."

On the other page hearts transfixed by two arrows, with two eyes above: "Occhi piangete accompagnete il core. Inclita virtus." Then follow six pages of instructions, from which we learn the various stitches in which these wonderful patterns may be executed, "damaschino, rilevato, a filo, sopra punto, ingaseato, Ciprioto, croceato, pugliese, scritto, incroceato, in aere, fatto su la rate, a magliata, desfilato, & di racammo," to be sewn in various coloured silks, gold and silver thread, or black silk, for "collari di huomo & di donna, camisciole con pettorali, frisi di contorni di letti, entemelle di cuscini, frisi di alcun boccassino, & scufie," etc. On the last page, "Stampa in Vineggia per Giovan Antonio Tagliente & i Fratelli de Sabbio. 1530." Brunet gives an edition dated 1528.

4.

[Sidenote: 1530. _Paris F. Pelegrin._]

La fleur de la science de pourtraicture et patrons de broderie. Facon arabicque, et ytalique. Cum priviligio regis.

Frontispiece. Title in Gothic letters. A large figure of Sol (?), with a yoke, his feet chained, a ball, maybe the Earth, at the end of the chain. In one hand he holds a scroll with the legend, "Exitus acta probat." Privilege of "Francoys par la grace de Dieu roy de France," to "Francisque pelegrin de Florence," to publish "ung livre de fueillages, entrelatz et ouvraiges moresques, et Damasquins," for six years. "D[=o]ne a bordeaulx le xvii. jour de Juing. L'an de grace mil cinq cens tr[=e]te Et de nostre regne le seiziesme."

Ce present livre a este imprime a paris par jaques nyverd. Le iv. jour daoust. Lan de grace mil cinq c[=e]s xxx. Pour noble h[=o]me messire Francisque Pelegrin de florence.

On les vend a paris En la grant rue sainct Anthoyne devant les tournelles. Au logis de monseigneur le comte de Carpes. Par messire Fr[=a]cisque pelegrin de florence.[1268]

Small fol., 62 ff., 58 plates, consisting of graceful moresque patterns, no animals or natural objects represented. At plate 33, surrounded by arabesques, is an N, the initial of the printer.

5.

[Sidenote: 1529. _Venice. N. Zoppino._]

Esemplario di lavori: dove le tenere fanciulle & altre donne nobile potranno facilment imparare il modo & ordine di lavorare, cusire, racamare, & finalmente far tutte quelle gentillezze & lodevoli opere, le quali pò fare una donna virtuosa con laco in {462}mano, con li suoi compasse & misure. Vinezia, per Nicolo D'Aristotile detto Zoppino MDXXIX. 8vo.[1269] 46 plates.

The Cav^{re} Merli quotes another edition, date 1530, in the possession of the Avvocato Francesco Pianesani, and another he believes of 1529.

6.

[Sidenote: 1532. _Venice. N. Zoppino._]

Convivio delle belle Donne, dove con li. Nuovi raccami, &c. In fine: Finisce il convivio delle, &c. Nuovamente stampato in Vinegia, per Nicolo d'Aristotile, detto Zoppino del mese d'Agosto. MDXXXII.

In 4to, ff. 24.[1270]

7.

[Sidenote: 1537. _Venice. N. Zoppino._]

Gli universali de i belli Recami antichi, et moderni, ne i quali un pellegrino ingegno, si di huomo come di donna potra in questa nostra eta con l'ago vertuosamente esercitar si. Non ancora da alcuni dati altri inluce.

Frontispiece, two ladies at work; dedication to "gli virtuosi Giovani et gentilissime Fanciulle." At the end styles himself "Nicolo d'Aristotile detto Zoppino." March, 1537.

In 4to, ff. 25, printed on both sides.[1271]

8.

[Sidenote: 1534. _Augsburg. Schartzemberger._]

Ain New Formbüchlin bin ich gnandt Allen Künstlern noch unbekandt Sih mich (lieber kauffer) recht an, Findst drefftlich in diser kunff stan Sch[=o]n gschnierlet, geböglet, auf gladt, Und gold, auch sch[=o]n von premen stadt, Es gibt dir ain prem unb ain kledyt. Wenn mans recht aussainander schneydt, Das kanst schneyden auss der Ellen, Von Samat, Seyden, wie manss wolle, Ich mag braucht wern in allem landt, Wen man mich ers[=u]cht mit verstandt.

(At the end.)

Gedruckt in der Kaiserlichen Riechstatt, Augspurg, durch Johan Schartzemberger. Fomschneyder. 1534.[1272]

Small obl., 20 ff., 38 plates.

Frontispiece. Title in black Gothic letters, at the foot three subjects of women at work, printed in red.

The patterns, consisting of graceful arabesque borders, are also in red (Figs. 166, 167, 168).

[Illustration: Fig. 166.

PATTERN BOOK.--Augsburg, 1534.]

[Illustration: Fig. 167.

PATTERN BOOK.--Augsburg, 1534.]

_To face page 462._

{463}[Illustration: Fig. 168.

AUGSBURG. 1534.]

9.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Antwerp. W. Vorsterman._]

A neawe treatys: as c[=o]cernynge the excellency of the nedle worcke spânisshe stitche and weavynge in the frame, very necessary to al theym wiche desyre the perfect knowledge of seamstry, quiltinge and brodry worke, côteinynge an cxxxviij figures or tables, so playnli made & set tout in portrature, the whiche is difficyll; and natôly for crafts m[=e] but also for gentlewem[=e] & and iôge damosels that therein may obtayne greater conynge delyte and pleasure.

These books be to sell at Andwarp in the golden Unycorne at Will[=m] Vorstermans.

Gheprent tot Antwerpen in die camerstrate in den gulden eenhoren bey Willem Vorsterman.[1273]

8vo, 24 ff., 46 plates.

Title in Gothic letters, with figures.

P. 1, dorso: Woodcut of a woman at work and a man sitting by her side.

Patterns mediæval, small black squares, arabesques, etc.

Vorsterman worked from 1514 to 1542.[1274]

10.

[Sidenote: 1542. _Venice._]

Giardinetto novo di punti tagliati et gropposi, per exercitio et ornamento delle donne. Ven. 1542, in 4to.[1275]

{464}11.

[Sidenote: 1543. _Venice._]

Esemplare che insegna alle donne el modo di cucire. Venetia, 1543.[1276]

12.

[Sidenote: 1544. _Venice._]

Il Specchio di pensiere (_sic_), delle belle donne dove si vede varie sorti di punti, cioè, punti tagliati, gropposi, &c. Venetia, 1544.

In 4to.[1277]

13.

[Sidenote: 1544. _Venice._]

Ornamento delle belle donne et virtuose: Opere in cui troverai varie sorti di frisi con li quali si potra ornar ciascun donna. Ven. 1544.[1278]

14.

[Sidenote: 1546. _Paris. Gormont._]

Le livre de moresques, tres utile et necessaire à tous orfevres, tailleurs, graveurs, painctres, tapissiers, brodeurs, lingieres et femmes qui besongnent de l'aiguille. Paris. Gormont, 1546. Fig. en bois.[1279]

15.

[Sidenote: 1549. _Lyon. P. de Ste. Lucie._]

La fleur des patrons de lingerie, a deux endroitz, a point croise, a point couche, et a point picque, en fil dor, fil darg[=e]t, & fil de soye, ou aultre en quelque ouvraige que ce soit, en comprenant lart de broderie et tissuterie. Imprimees a Lyon, en la maison de Pierre de saincte Lucie (dict le Prince, Pres nostre Dame de Confort).[1280]

(At the end.)

Imprimé à Lyon par Piarre de saincte Lucie, dict le Prince. 1549.

8vo, 12 ff., 21 plates.

Frontispiece. Title in Gothic letters, with woodcuts representing people at work. Below, two women sitting at frames; above, two others; and between, a man with a frame in his hand. On each side a shield, one with crowned heart, on the other a lion, three fleurs de lys in chief. Patterns mediæval. At the end, the device of the printer, a mountain, on the top of which is a city against which a youth is placing his hand: motto, "Spero." At the foot of the mountain a cavern in which is seated a Fury. This device is engraved No. 616 in Silvestre, who gives 1530 to 1555 as the date of Pierre de Saincte Lucie.

{465}16.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Lyon. P. de Ste. Lucie._]

Livre nouveau, dict patrons de lingerie, cest assavoir a deux endroitz, a point croise, point couche & point picque, en fil dor, dargent, de soye & autres, en quelque ouvrage que ce soit: comprenant lart de Broderie & Tissoterie. Imprimees a Lyon, chez Pierre de Saincte Lucie, pres nostre Dame de Confort.[1281]

8vo, 24 ff., 44 plates.

Frontispiece. Title in Gothic letters; the same shields as the preceding; two women at work. Patterns mediæval. At the end the same device.

The copy of the Arsenal is a different impression. Instead of "Imprimees," &c, we have, "On les vend," etc.

17.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Lyon. P. de Ste. Lucia._]

Patrons de diverses manieres Inventez tressubtilement Duysans a Brodeurs et Lingieres Et a ceusy lesquelz vrayement Veullent par bon entendement User Dantique, et Roboesque, Frize et Moderne proprement, En comprenant aussi Moresque. A tous massons, menuisiers, & verriers Feront prouffit ces pourtraictz largement Aux orpheures, et gentilz tapissiers A ieunes gens aussi semblablement Oublier point ne veuly auscunement C[=o]trepointiers & les tailleurs dymages Et tissotiers lesquelz pareillement Par ces patrons acquerront heritages.

Imprimees a Lyon, par Pierre de Saincte Lucie, dict le Prince, pres nostre Dame de Confort.[1282]

8vo, 16 ff., 31 plates. Title in Gothic letters. Patterns mediæval.

The copy at the Arsenal is a later impression. "On les vend a Lyon, par Pierre de saincte Lucie, en la maison du deffunct Prince, pres," etc. It has only 12 ff., and 23 plates.

18.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Lyon. Le Prince._]

Sensuyuent lis patrons de messire Antoine Belin, Reclus de sainct Martial de Lyon. Item plusieurs autres beaulx Patrons nouveaulx, qui out este inventez par Jeban Mayol Carme de Lyon.

On les vend à Lyon, chez le Prince.[1283]

{466}Small 8vo, 6 ff., 85 plates. Copy at the Arsenal has 12 ff.

The same device of the printer in the frontispiece and at the end of the book. "Finis."

One of the patterns represents St. Margaret holding the cross to a dragon, but in these four books the designs are copied from each other, and are many of them repetitions of Quinty.

19.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Lyon. D. Celle._]

Ce livre est plaisant et utile A gens qui besongnent de leguille Pour comprendre legèrement Damoyselle bourgoyse ou fille Femmes qui out l'esperit agille Ne scauroint faillir nullement Corrige est nouvellement Dung ho[=n]este ho[=m]e par bon zelle Son nom est Dominicque Celle Qui a tous lecteurs shumylie Domicille a en Italie. En Thoulouse a prins sa naissance. Mise il a son intelligence A lamender subtillement Taillé il est totallement Par Jehan coste de rue merciere A Lyon et consequemment Quatre vingtz fassons a vrayement Tous de differente maniere.[1284]

28 ff., 27 plates. Title in Gothic letters. Dedication to the Reader, in which it states the book is for the profit of "tant hommes que femmes." Patterns mediæval. At the end of the Preface, "Finis coronat opus."

20.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore._]

Esemplario di lavori: che insegna alle d[=o]ne il modo e ordine di lavorare: cusire: e racámare: e finalm[=e]te far tutte [=q]lle opere degne di memoria: lequale po fare una donna virtuosa con laco in mano. Et uno documento che insegna al c[=o]pratore accio sia ben servito.[1285]

In 8vo, 25 ff., printed on both sides, 48 plates. Title in red Gothic characters, framed round by six woodcuts similar to that of Vorsterman; at the foot, "fiorio Vavasore fecit."

Then follows the "Documento per el compratore," and an Address to Ladies and Readers, by "Giovandrea Vavassore detto Guadagnino," saying that he had already "fatti alcuni libri di esempli di diverse sorte."

There is no date to this copy; but in the library of Prince Messimo, at Rome, is a copy dated Venice, 18 Feb., 1546, containing 50 plates; and Brunet quotes an edition, "Stampato in Vinezia, 1556;" Cav. Merli also possesses an edition of the same date. Mr. E. Arnold has also a copy with the same date.

The patterns are mediæval, on black grounds, with counted stitches, a large flower pot, mermaid, Paschal lamb, and a double plate representing Orpheus playing to the beasts.

{467}21.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore._]

Essemplario novo di pin di cento variate mostre di qualunque orte bellissime per cusire intitolato Fontana di gli essempli.

Oblong 8vo. No date. 16 ff., 28 plates.

In the frontispiece is a fountain with the motto, "Solicitudo est mater divitiarum," and on each side of the fountain--

"Donne donzelle ch Per farvi eterne alla. El cusir seguite Fonte venite."

On the back of the frontispiece is the Dedication, headed, "Il Pelliciolo alla molta magnifica Madona Chiara Lipomana;" the page finished by a sonnet; in the last leaf, "Avviso alle virtuose donne et a qualunque lettore Giovanni Andrea Vavassore detto Guadagnino." Says he has "negli tempi passati fatto imprimere molto e varie sorte d'essemplari di mostre," etc. At the foot, "Nuovamente stampato."[1286] This work is also described by Count Cicognara with the same title, only with the date 1550. In the Bibliotheca Communitativa, Bologna, is a copy of the same date. In this last edition the author writes his name Valvassore.

22.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore._]

Vavassore Gio. Andrea. Opera nova Universal intitulata corona di ricammi; Dove le venerande donne e fanciulle: trovera[=n]o di varie opere [per] fare colari di camisiola & torni[=a][=e]nti di letti [=e]ternelle di cuscini boccasini schufioni: cordlli di piu sorte; et molte opere per rec[=a]matori [per] dipitore poreuesi: (_sic_) de lequale opere o vero esempli ciascuno le potra pore in opera sec[=o]do el suo bisogno: con gratia novamente stampata ne la inclita citta di vineggia per Giovanni Andrea Vavassore detto Guadagni[=o]. 36 pp., sm. 4to.

13 ff., 52 designs, none of which are repetitions of the preceding.[1287]

23.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore._]

Vavassore Gio. Andrea detto Guadagnino. Opera nova, etc. ... dove le venerande donne et fanciulle trovaranno di varie opere et molte opere per recamatori et per dipintori; etc. Nuovamente stampata, etc.[1288]

Quite a different collection from the preceding. A little of everything in this volume.

Zoan Andrea Vavassore was the pupil in drawing and engraving of Andrea Mantegna. Towards the beginning of the sixteenth century, he worked on his own account, and his engravings are much sought after. So greedy was he of gain as to obtain for him the name of Guadigno, in Venetian patois, "covetous." He lived to a great age.

{468}24.

[Sidenote: _N. D. A. Paganino._]

Libro questo di rechami per el quale se impara in diversi modi l'ordine e il modo de recamare, cosa non mai più fatta n' è stata mostrata.

By Alessandro Paganino.[1289]

20 plates, with a long explanation how these works are done. (Communicated by Prince Massimo.)

25.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Paris Vve. Ruelle._]

Patrons pour Brodeurs, Lingieres, Massons, Verriers, et autres gens d'esprit. A Paris. Pour la Veuve Jean Ruelle, rue S. Jacques, à l'enseigne Sainct Nicolas.[1290]

4to, 23 ff., 32 plates of mediæval designs. Ornamented title-page.

26.

[Sidenote: 1548. _Venice. M. Pagan._]

Il specchio di pensieri delle belle et virtudiose donne, dove si vede varie sorti di Punti, cioè punti tagliati, punti gropposi, punti in rede, et punti in Stuora. MDXLVIII. Stamp. in Venetia, per Mathio Pagan in frezzaria, in le case nove Tien per insegna la fede.[1291]

16 ff.

27.

[Sidenote: 1551. _Venice. M. Pagan._]

1. L'honesto Essempio del vertuoso desiderio che hanno le donne di nobile ingegno circa lo imparare i punti tagliati e fogliami. In Venetia per Mathio Pagan in Frezaria al segno della Fedo, M.D.L.[1292]

In the V. and A. Museum is a copy dated 1550.

28.

[Sidenote: 1551. _Venice. M. Pagan._]

Giardineto novo di Punti tagliati et gropposi, per esurcitio et ornamento delle donne. At the end, Venetia, Mathio Pagan in Frezzaria, in le case nove (tien per insegna della Fede) MDLI. Dedication, Alla signora Lucretia, Romana Mathio Pagan, salute.[1293] See also No. 38.

29.

[Sidenote: 1554. _Dubois._]

Variarum protractionum quas vulgo Maurusias vocant omnium antehac excusarum libellus longe copiasissimus pictoribus, aurifabris, polymilariis, barbaricariis variisque id genus {469}artificibus etiam acu operantibus utilissimus nuncque primen in lucem editus anno 1554. Balthazar Sylvius (Dubois) fecit.

Jo. Theodoret, Jo. Israel de Bry excud.[1294]

In 4to, ff. 23, copperplate.

30.

[Sidenote: 1555. _Padua. Fra Hieronimo._]

Triompho di Lavori a Fogliami de i quali si puo far ponti in aere; opera d' Fra Hieronimo da Cividal di Frioli, de l'Ordine de i Servi di Osservantia. Cum gratia et privileggio per anni xi.[1295]

Obl. 4to, 14 ff., 22 pl.

Ornamental title-page. On the top, a female seated in a triumphal car drawn by unicorns, with attendants. On each side of the title are women teaching children to work.

P. 1, dorso. Dedication of the author, "Alla Magnifica & Illustre Signora Isabella Contessa Canossa," whose "Immortal Triompho" is represented in the above woodcut. Fra Hieronimo speaks of preparing "più alte e divine imprese."

Then follow three pages of verses in terzette, and p. 3, dorso, the impresa of the printer, a lion rampant, holding a sword in his fore paws. Below, "In Padou per Jacobo Fabriano, ad instantia de Fra Hieronimo da Cividal di Frioli: de l'Ordine de i Servi di Osservantia 1555."

31.

[Sidenote: 1556. _Venice. Torello._]

Lucidario di ricami di Guiseppe Torello. Venezia, 1556.

In 4to.

32.

[Sidenote: 1556. _Strasburg. H. Hoffman._]

New Modelbüch, allen Nägerin, unnd Sydenstickern sehr nutzlich zü branchë, vor nye in Druck aussgangen durch Hans Hoffman, Burger und formschneider zu Strassburg. At the end, Zu Strassburg Gedruckt am Kommarckt durch Jacob Frölich. 1556. 4to.[1296]

4to. A to G in fours. (28 leaves.)

Title printed in red and black. On it a woodcut of two women, one engaged in embroidery, the other fringing her some stuff. The last leaf (Giiii.) has on the recto a woodcut of a woman at a frame, the verso blank.

33.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Zurich. C. Froschover._]

Nüw Modelbüch, allerley gattungen Däntelschnür, so diser zyt in hoch Tütschlanden geng und brüchig sind, zu underricht jren Leertöchteren unnd allen anderen schurwirckeren zu Zurych {470}und wo die sind, yetz nüwlich zübereit, und erstmals in truch verfergket durch R. M.[1297]

No place or date, but as appears, both from the title and preface, to be printed at Zurich, by Christopher Froschover. The date probably from 1530 to 1540.

4to. Signatures A to F in fours. 24 leaves. On the title a woodcut of two women working at lace pillows.

34.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Frankfort._]

Modelbüch Welscher, Ober und Niderlandischer Arbait. Getruckt zü Franckfort.

No date, but probably at least as early as 1530. 4to. Signatures A to D in fours. 20 leaves.

Title enclosed in an elegant woodcut border.

35.

[Sidenote: 1537. _Frankfort. C. Egenolffs._]

Modelbüch, von erhabener unnd flacher Arbait, Auff der Ramen, Laden, und nach der Zale.

Getruckt zu Franckfort, Bei Christian Egenolffs, Erben.

The date, 1537, occurs on one of the patterns. 4to. AA to HH in fours. 32 leaves. Title in a woodcut border. 178 patterns.

36.

[Sidenote: 1571. _Frankfort on the Mayn. N. Baseus._]

New Modelbüch.

Von allerhandt Art, Nehens und Stickens, jetzt mit viellerley Welscher Arbeyt, Mödel und Stahlen, allen Steinmetzen, Seidenstickern und Neterin, sehr nützlich und kunstlich, von newem zugericht.

Getruckt zu Frankfurt am Mayn, 1571.

Device and motto of Nicolas Baseus on title-page. Sm. 4to. (Library V. and A. Museum.)

37.

[Sidenote: 1568. _Frankfort on the Mayn. N. Baseus._]

Das new Modelbüch, &c.

Franckfurt am Mayn, 1568, 4to. Printer, Nicholas Baseus, ff. 40.

38.

[Sidenote: 1569. _Frankfort on the Mayn._]

Modelbüch; Zweiter Theil: Franckfurt am Mayn, 1569.

4to, ff. 44. Nos. 36 and 37 are cited by the Marquis d'Adda.

{471}39.

[Sidenote: 1558. _Venice. M. Pagan._]

La Gloria et l'honore de ponti tagliati et ponti in aere Venezia per Mathio Pagan in Frezzeria al segno della Fede. 1558.[1298]

16 plates. Dedicated to Vittoria Farnese, Duchess of Urbino.

40.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Venice._]

Il Monte. Opera nova di recami intitolata il monte, nella quale si ritrova varie, & diverse sorti di mostre, di punti in aiere, à fogliami. Dove le belle & virtuose Donne protranno fare ogni sorte di lavoro, accommodate alle vera forma misura & grandezza, che debbono essere ne mai piu per l'adietro da alcuno vedute. Opera non men bella che utile, & necessaria.[1299]

Below, the impresa of the printer, an eagle with its young; motto, "Virtute parta sibi non tantum." In Venetia.

4to, 16 ff., 29 plates of bold scroll borders.

41.

[Sidenote: 1559. _Venice. G. A. Bindoni._]

Il Monte (libro secondo) Opera dove ogni bella donna potrà fare ogni sorte di lavori cioè colari, fazzoletti, maneghetti, avertadure (berthes), &c., in Venetia, 1560.[1300]

Printer's mark and motto as No. 39: afterwards the dedication dated 1559, "à Vittoria da Cordova Gio. Ant. Bindoni," in which he states "Ho preso arditamente di presentarvi questo secondo Monte." 4to. ff. 16.

42.

[Sidenote: 1558. _Venice._]

Bellezze de recami et dessegni opera novo non men bella che utile, e necessaria et non più veduta in luce. Venezia, 1558.[1301]

Ob. 4to. 20 plates of patterns.

43.

[Sidenote: 1558. _Venice. I. Foresto._]

Lo Splendore delle virtuose giovani con varie mostre di fogliami e punti in aere. Venezia. Per Iseppo Foresto in calle dell'acqua a S. Zulian all' insegno del Pellegrino, 1558.[1302]

16 plates.

{472}44.

[Sidenote: 1559. _Venice._]

Trionfo di Virtù Libro novo da cucir, con fogliami, ponti a fili, ponti cruciati, &c. Venezia, 1559.[1303]

16 plates.

45.

[Sidenote: _N. D._]

Burato.

Consisting of four leaves, with patterns of canvas (tela chiara), in squares, for works in "punta" of various widths, with instructions how to increase or diminish the patterns. See CUTWORK.

On the back of the last page is printed in large characters, "P. Alex. Pag. (Paganinus). Benacensis F. Bena. V. V."[1304]

46.

[Sidenote: _N. D._]

Burato ... con nova maestria, gratiose donne, novo artificio vi apporto.

A second edition without date. 4to, ff. 59; frontispiece, ladies at work, verso, Triumph of Fame. Four books of designs of great elegance and taste. The Marquis d'Adda assigns them to Vavassore.

47.

[Sidenote: _N. D. A. Passerotti._]

Passerotti Aurelio Pittore Bolognese dissegnatore e miniatore figlio di Bartolommeo Passerotti circa al 1560. Libro Primo di lavorieri alle molto illustre et virtuosissime gentildonne Bolognesi. Libro secondo alle molto magnifici et virtuosissimi signori.[1305]

In fol. obl.

67 ff., including two dedications and a frontispiece. Designs for embroidery, etc., drawn with a pen. In the title-page of the first book is the device of a sunflower, "Non san questi occhi volgere altrove."

48.

[Sidenote: 1557. _Venice._]

Le Pompe. Opera nova di recami dove trovansi varie mostre di punto in aere. Venezia, 1557.[1306]

Probably an earlier impression of the following. 4to, ff. 16.

49.

[Sidenote: 1559.]

Le Pompe, opera nova nella quale si ritrovano varie, & diverse sorti di mostre, per poter far Cordelle over Bindelle, d' Oro, di Seta, di Filo, overo di altra cosa di Dove le belle et virtuose donne potranno fare ogni sorte di lavoro, cioè merli di diverse sorte, Cavezzi, Colari, Maneghetti, & tutte quelle cose {473}che le piaceranno. Opera non men bella, che utile, & necessaria. E non più veduta in luce. 1559.[1307]

Below, the same impresa of the eagle, as in "Il Monte," Nos. 39 and 40.

8vo, 16 ff., 30 plates.

A great variety of borders and indented patterns (merli). (Fig. 169.)

"Si vendeno alla Libraria della Gatta."

[Illustration: Fig. 169.

LE POMPE, 1559.]

In the Cat. d'Estrées is noted, "Le Pompe, Opera nella quale si retrovano diverse sorti di mostse per poter far cordelle, Bindelle, d'oro di seta, di filo. 1559, fig." Probably the same work.

50.

[Sidenote: 1560. _Venice._]

Le Pompe, Libro secondo. Opera nuova nella quale si ritrovana varie e diverse sorti di Mostre, per poter fare Cordelle, ovver Bindelle, d'Oro, di Seta, di Filo, ovvero di altra cosa. Dove {474}le belle & virtuose Donne potranno far ogni sorte di lavoro, coèi Merli di diverse sorte, Cavezzi, Colari, Maneghetti & tutte quelle cose che li piaceno. Opera hon men bello che utile & necessaria e non più veduta in luce.

Impresa of the printer, "Pegasus," and below, In "Venetia 1560."

Obl. 8vo, 16 ff., 29 plates.[1308]

Mrs. Stisted's copy is dated 1562, and there is one at Vienna, in the Imperial Library, of the same date.

51.

[Sidenote: 1563. _Venice. J. Calepino._]

Splendore delle virtuose giovani dove si contengono molte, & varie mostre a fogliami cio è punti in aere, et punti tagliati, bellissimi, & con tale arteficio, che li punti tagliati serveno alli punti in aere. Et da quella ch' è sopragasi far si possono, medesimamente molte altre.

In Venetia Appresso Jeronimo Calepino, 1563.[1309]

8vo, 20 ff., 35 plates of scroll patterns in the style of "Il Monte."

Dedication "Alla molto honorata M. Anzola ingegniera succera mia digniss." Francesco Calepino, wishing, he says, to "ristampare la presente opera," he dedicates it to her. In Bib. Melzi, Milan, a copy dated 1567.

52.

[Sidenote: 1563. _Venice. J. Calepino._]

Lucidario di recami, nel qual si contengono molte, & varie sorti di disegni. A punti in aere et punti tagliati, & a fogliami, & con figure & di più altre maniere, come al presente si usano non più venute in luce Per lequali ogni elevato ingegno potrà in diversi modi commodissimamente servirsi. In Venetia, Appresso Ieronimo Calepino, 1563.[1310]

8vo, 16 ff., 29 plates of flowing borders like the preceding.

53.

[Sidenote: 1564. _Venice._]

I Frutti opera nuova intitulata i frutti de i punti in stuora, a fogliami, nella quale si ritrova varie, et diverse sorti di mostre di ponti in Stuora, a fogliami, & punti in gasii & in punti in Trezola.[1311] Dove ogni bella et virtuosa donna potrà fare ogni sorte di lavoro, cioè fazoletti, colari, maneghetti, Merli, Frisi, Cavezzi, Intimelle, overo forelle, avertadure da camise, & altre sorti di lavori, come piu a pieno potrai vedere, ne mei per l' adietro d' alcun altro fatte & poste in luce.

{475}Opera non men bella, che utile et necessaria a ciascuna virtuosa gentildonna. In Vinegia, 1564.[1312]

Obl. 8vo, 16 ff., 30 plates of patterns either in dots or small squares.

54.

[Sidenote: 1564. _Paris._]

Patrons pour brodeurs, lingières, massons, verriers, et autres gens d'esperit; nouvellement imprimé, à Paris, rue Saint-Jacques, à la Queue-de Regnard M.DLXIIII.[1313]

55.

[Sidenote: 1564. _Venice. D. de Franceschi._]

Fede (Opere nova) intitulata: Dei Recami nella quale si contiene varie diverse sorte di mostre di punti scritto, tagliato, in Stuora, in Rede, &c. In Venetia, appresso Domenico de Franceschi in Frezzaria, all' insegna della Regina. M.DLVIII.

In 4to, ff. 16. In his _Avis au Lecteur_, Franceschi alludes to three other works he had published, styled _La Regina_, _La Serena_, and _La Speranza_.

56.

[Sidenote: 1564. _Venice. D. de Franceschi._]

Serena opera nova di recami, nella quale si ritrova varie et diverse sorte di punti in stuora et punti a filo. In Venetia, Domenico di Franceschi. 1564.

Obl. 4to, ff. 16. Nos. 55 and 56 cited by Marquis d'Adda.

57.

[Sidenote: 1581. _Lyon. J. Ostans._]

Le trésor des patrons, contenant diverses sortes de broderies et lingeries; pour coudre avec grande facilité et pour ouvrer en diverses sortes de piquer avec l'ésguille, pulveriser par dessus et faire ouvrages de toutes sortes de points &ct par Jean Ostans. Lyon, Ben. Rigaud. 1581, in 4-to.[1314]

58.

[Sidenote: 1567. _Venice. J. Ostans._]

Ostans Giovanni. La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di Recami, et di cucire, &c. ... punti a fogliami punti tagliati punti a fili et rimessi punti in cruciati, punti a stuora, et ogni altra arte che dia opera a disegni. Fatta nuovamente per Gio. Ostans. Vittoria, con gratia et privilegio dell' Illus. {476}Senato Venetiano per anni.[1315] In Venetia appresso Gio. Ostans, 1567.

4to obl., 4 cahiers of 8 ff., 74 plates. Letter of Ostans to Lucretia Contarini; verso, an engraving of Lucretia Romana, surrounded by her women, signed Jose. Sal. (Joseph Salviati), who furnished the design, two sonnets, and Aves. A striking example of the borrowing between France and Italy in the sixteenth century, probably of the school of Fontainebleau. Grotesques like A. du Cerceau, scrolls after E. de Laulne, fresco of figures from G. Tory. Brunet describes a copy dated 1591.

59.

[Sidenote: 1584. _Venice. Valvassore's heirs._]

Ostans. La vera perfettione del desegno &ct. Venetia M.DLXXXIIII., presso gli heredi Valvassori e Gio. Dom. Micheli al segno dell' Ippogrifo.

In 4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)

60.

[Sidenote: 1582. _B. Tabin._]

Neues Künstlicher, Modelbuch von allerhand artlichen und gerechten Mödeln, &c., bei B. Tabin.[1316]

61.

[Sidenote: _Paris._ 1584. _D. de Sera._]

Le livre de Lingerie, composé par Maistre Dominique de Sera, Italien, enseignant le noble & gentil art de l'esguille, pour besongner en tous points: utile & profitable à toutes Dames & Damoyselles, pour passer le temps, & euiter oysiveté.

Nouvellement augmenté, & enrichi, de plusieurs excelents & divers patrons, tant du point coupé, raiseau, que passement, de l'invention de M. Jean Cousin, Peintre à Paris.

A Paris. Chez Hierosme de Marnef, & la veufve de Guillaume Cauellat, au mont S. Hilaire à l'enseigne du Pelican. 1584. Avec privilege du Roy.[1317]

In the Cat. d'Estrées; No. 8848, is _Livre de Pourtraicture de Jean Cousin_. Paris, 1637, in 4 fig.

4to, 28 ff., 51 plates of mediæval design.

Frontispiece, three women and a child at work, on each side of the title a man and a woman at work under a trifoliated canopy.

Privilege for three years to H. de Marnef, "juré libraire en l'Université de Paris."

"L'auteur aux lecteurs." He takes his pen to portray what he has seen "en Italie, Espagne, Romanie, Allemagne, & autre païs, dont je ne fais aucune mention à cause de trop longue plexite," that he gives at {477}least eighty designs for the use and singular profit of many, "hommes tant que femmes." Below, "Finis coronat opus."

Then follows a "Balade" of 28 lines. On the last page, the impresa of Cavellat, a pelican in its piety, "Mors in me vita in me."

62.

[Sidenote: 1596. _G. Frano._]

Frano Gio. Libro delle mostre da ceuser per le donne.

16 engravings on wood and 8 on copper. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)

63.

[Sidenote: _Bologna. A. Parisini._]

Danieli Bartholomeo Recamatore libro di diversi disegni per Collari, punti per Fazzoletti et Reticelle divarie sorte. Agostino Parisini forma in Bologna.

15 leaves obl. 8vo, entirely engraved au burin, towards the end of the sixteenth century.[1318]

64.

[Sidenote: _N. D._]

Ornamento delle belle et virtuose donne opera nova nella quale troverrai varie sorti di frisi, con li quali si potra ornar ciascuna donna, & ogni letti con ponti tagliato, ponti gropposi, & ogni altra sorte di ponti per fare quelle belle opere che si appartengono alle virtuose & lodevoli fanciulle.

On a scutcheon, with 3 figures below, "Libro Primo." Lib. Victoria and Albert Museum.

65.

[Sidenote: 1587. _Paris. 1st Edit. 1st Part. F. Vinciolo._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie. Servans de patrons à faire toutes sortes de poincts, couppé, Lacis & autres. Dedie a la Royne. Nouvellement inventez, au proffit & c[=o]tentement, des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic (_sic_) de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec privilege du Roy.[1319]

[Sidenote: _2nd Part._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie ou est representé les sept planettes, & plusieurs autres figures & pourtraitz servans de patrons à faire de plusieurs sortes de Lacis. Nouvellement inventez, au proffit & c[=o]tentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec privilege du Roi.

(At the end.)

Privilege for nine years to "Iean le Clerc le ieune, 'tailleur d'histoires,' à Paris," signed 27 June, 1587. "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc Rue Frementel à l'Estoille d'Or."

{478}4to.

The first part consists of 40 ff., 36 of patterns and 4 preliminary pages.

P. 1. The title-page with decorated border, in which are two ladies at work. (See Title-page of this work.)

P. 2. Dedication of "Le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo aux Benevolles Lecteurs," in which he sets forth that several authors before him having published certain patterns for work that "les Seigneurs, Dames, & Damoyselles ont eu pour agréable," he, to show "la bonne volonté que je porte à la France, laquelle m'ayant été douce et favorable, depuis certain temps que j'ay quitté Venize, païs de ma nativité," wish to portray the present "pourtraicts d'ouvrages magnifiques tous differ[=e]s, & non encor usitez en cette c[=o]tree ni aultres, & que j'ay tenus cachés & inc[=o]gnus jusques à maintenant," feeling assured that if the first you had seen "on engendré quelque fruit & utilité, ceux cy en aporteront d'avantage," and if I see this my invention pleases you, I will "vous faire participer d'un aultre seconde bande d'ouvrages."

P. 3. Dedication "A la Royne," Louise de Vaudemont, by Le Clerc, saying that having received from Italy some rare and singular patterns, and "ouvrages de l'ingerie & en ay[=a]t inv[=e]te quelques uns, selon mon petit sçavoir, j'ay pensé puis que ces choses là appartienent principallement aux Dames," that he cannot do better than present them to the Queen, as if these patterns are useful (as he hears some less perfect and more rudely sketched have served and profited before), they ought to be offered to her Majesty. Signed last day of May, 1587.

P. 4. A sonnet.

AUX DAMES ET DAMOISELLES.

"L'un sefforce à gaigner le coeur des gr[=a]ds seigneurs Pour posséder enfin une exquise richesse, L'autre aspire aux Estats pour monter en altesse, Et l'autre par la guerre alléche les honneurs.

Quand à moy, seulement pour chasser mes langueurs, Je me sen satisfait de vivre en petitesse, Et de faire si bien, qu'aux dames je délaisse Un grand contentement en mes graves labeurs.

Prenez doncques en gré (mes Dames), je vous prie, Ces pourtrais ouvragez lesquelz je vous dédie, Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer. En ceste nouveauté, pourrés beaucoup apprendre, Et maistresses en fin en cest oeuvre vous rendre. Le travail est plaisant. Si grand est le loyer."

"_Morir assidouamente per virtu,_ _Non morirè._"

Then follow the 36 patterns set off in white on a black ground, viz., 20 "Ouvrages de point Couppé," the first plate with the double [Greek: ll], according to the fashion introduced by Francis I. of using Greek monograms, standing for Queen Louise. On the second page are two escutcheons, one of France, the other with the letter H for Henry III. Then follow eight "Passemens de point Couppé," which are succeeded by eight more "Ouvrages de point Couppé."

## Part 2, 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in

squares for stitches like the German patterns of the present day. These consist of the Seven Planets, Sol, Luna, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus and Saturn. Four in squares of various designs; two of Amorini shooting stags and birds; Neptune and the winds; an arabesque with impresa of a column with circle and double triangle; five borders and squares, and {479}two "bordures à carreaux," diamond-shaped meshes. The last page contains the Extract from the Privilege.

This is the original edition of Vinciolo, of which we know but one copy existing--that in the Library at Rouen.

It was followed the same year by two other editions, with alterations.[1320]

66.

[Sidenote: 1587. _2nd Ed. 1st Part. F. Vinciolo._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie. Nouvellement augmentez de plusieurs differens pourtraits servans de patrons à faire toutes sortes poincts couppé, Lacis, et autres reseau de poinct conté. Dedié à la Royne. Le tout inventé, au proffit & contentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A. Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.

[Sidenote: _2nd part._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie ou avons augm[=e]té plusieurs nouveaux & differens portraitz de reseau, tout point conté, plusieurs nouvelles bordures et autres sortes differentes.

Nouvellement inventez au proffit & c[=o]tentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federick de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, Ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1321]

1st Part, 40 ff. The same frontispiece, dedications, date, and sonnet, as the first, the same number of patterns, only the eight styled in the first "Passemens" are here all called, like the others, "Ouvrages" de point couppé. (See Fig. 4.)

2nd Part, 32 ff. This part has 30 patterns, comprising the 24 of the first edition, and six additional ones, consisting of squares and two hunting subjects.

67.

[Sidenote: 1587. _3rd Edit. No. 1. Parts 1 and 2._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux Pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisieme fois augmentez Outre le reseau premier et le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té avec le nombre des mailles, choze non encor veue ni inventée. {480}A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le College de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1322]

This must be the first impression of the third edition.

[Sidenote: 1588. _3rd Edit. No. 2. 1st Part._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint Hilaire, du Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du Roy. 1588.[1323]

68.

[Sidenote: _2nd Part._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint Hilaire, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du Roy. 1588.[1324]

This must be subsequent to the Brussels impression, as Jean le Clerc has changed his address.

In the third edition, dorso of pp. 1 and 2, we have the addition of portraits of Louise de Vaudemont and Henry III., with a complimentary stanza of four lines under each.

In his Advertisement au lecteur, Vinciolo says that having promised, since the first impression of his book, to give a "nouvelle bande d'ouvrages," and not to disappoint certain ladies who have complained that he has not made "du reseau assez beau à leur fantaisie," I have wished for the third time to place before their eyes many new and different patterns of "reseau de point conté que j'ay cousus et attachez à la fin de mes premières figures," beneath which I have put the number and quantity of the stitches. Same dedication and sonnet as before. Privilege for nine years dated Paris, 25 May, 1587. "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, ruë S. Jacques, au petit Bec, devant le College de Marmouttier."

1st Part, 40 ff., 36 plates, 27 of point couppé, two stomachers, and seven "Passemens" de point couppé; the same lettered "Ouvrages" as in the preceding impression.

2nd Part, 36 ff., 50 plates. The thirty already published in the second edition, after which follow the twenty additional of "reseau de point conté," announced in the Preface, consisting of "6 Quarrés, 2 Coins de {481}Mouchoir, 2 Bordures, 6 animals: Lion, Pelican, Unicorn, Stag, Peacock, and Griffon"; and the Four Seasons. "Déesse des fleurs, representant le Printemps," etc.

These last twenty have the number of stitches given. (See Fig. 5.)

On the last page is an escutcheon with the arms of France and Poland.

69.

[Sidenote: 1588. _3rd Edit. No. 3. Parts 1 and 2._]

A later impression still.

Same title, date, portraits, dedication, and sonnet, only the Privilege is dated "ce douzième jour de Novembre 1587. De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, Rue S. Jaques, aux trois Mores."[1325]

34 ff. 30 plates, 1st part; 50 plates in 2nd.

70.

[Sidenote: 1595. _3rd Edit. No. 4. Parts 1 and 2._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie à la Royne Douairière de France.

De Rechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux & differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encore veuë ny inventée.

A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc, ruë Saint Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre. Avec privilege du Roy. 1595.[1326]

This impression is dedicated to Louise de Vaudemont, now "Reine Douairière," Henry III. having died in 1589.

71.

[Sidenote: 1606. _3rd Edit. No 5. Parts 1 and 2._]

The same title as that of 1595--differing only in date.[1327]

Privilege for six years, "donné à Mantes, le 3 Juillet 1593." At the foot, "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc au Petit Corbeil 1606."

The 1st part has 32 ff. and 36 plates; 32 "Ouvrages de poinct couppé," and 4 stomachers.

The 2nd part 46 plates, same as those of 1588, only four less.

On the last page the escutcheon of France and Navarre.

72.

[Sidenote: 1589. _4th Edit. Turin. Parts 1 and 2._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. Derechef et pour la quatrieme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier et le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point conté, avec le nombre de mailles, chose non encore veue ni inventee. A Thurin. Par Eleazaro Thomysi. 1589.[1328]

Described in Cat. Cicognara with the date 1658. The 1st part 44 ff. and 39 plates; the 2nd with 36 plates.

{482}The editions of 1613 and 1623 are described in their chronological order. Nos. 64 and 71.

That of 1603 we have not seen; but M. Leber states it to be equally rich with that of 1623.

The copies of Vinciolo in the Bodleian bear the dates of 1588, 1603, and 1612.

Baron Pichon has a copy of an impression of 1612.

One at Bordeaux, in the Bib. de la Ville, is dated 1588.

In a book sale at Antwerp, March, 1864, there was sold the following:--

Lot 528. _Livre de Patrons de Lingerie dediè a la Royne, nouvellement invente par le seign^r Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien._ Paris, Jean le Clerc, 1598.--_Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie._ Paris, _Ibid._, 1598.--_Les secondes oeuvres et subtiles inventions de Lingerie._ Paris, _Ibid._, 1598.--_Nouveaux pourtraicts de Point coupé et Dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme._ A. Montbeliard, Jacques Foillet, 1598. 4 tom. 1 vol. in-4. v. anc. fig. sur bois.

It went for 440 francs to a Mr. Ross. We do not know the editions of 1598.

As M. Leber observes, the various editions of Vinciolo, published by Le Clerc and his widow, from 1587 to 1623, and perhaps later, are only impressions more or less varied of the two distinct books, the one of point coupé, the other of lacis.

The work of Vinciolo has been reprinted in several countries. In England it has been translated and published by Wolfe. (See No. 72.) At Liege, by Jean de Glen. (See No. 79.) Mr. Douce says that it was reprinted "at Strasburg, 1596, and at Basle, 1599, with a second part, which is rare, and sometimes contains a portrait by Gaultier of Catherine de Bourbon."

In the Bib. Nat. (Grav. B. c. 22), a volume headed _Vinciolo (Federigo) Peintre Venitien et ses imitateurs_, contains, with "La pratique," etc., of Mignerak (See No. 93), a German copy of the "nouveaux pourtraits," the work printed by Ludwig Künigs, at Basle, 1599 (See No. 85); and a German work headed "Broderies sur filet," 50 plates engraved upon copper.

73.

[Sidenote: 1591. _London. Wolf._]

New and singular patternes and workes of Linnen. Serving for patternes to make all sortes of Lace edging and Cut-workes. Newly invented for the profite and contentment of Ladies, Gentlewomen, and others that are desirous of this Arte. London: Imprinted by J. Wolfe and Edward White, 1591.[1329]

EPISTLE TO THE READER.

Having framed a body of the best and rarest manner in true perfection of sundrie sortes of deuises or workes, as well for frame-workes as other needle-workes, I devised with all diligence and industrious studie to sattisfy the gentle mindes of vertuous women by bringing to light things never before as yet seene nor committed to print; All which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order, the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth forward; Whereby with more {483}ease they may be sewed and wrought in Cloth, and keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey of the worke. And more, who desyrith to bring the worke into a lesser forme, let them make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge them, and so may you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch, pouncing, or pouldering upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to be understood that these squares serve not onely for cut-workes, but alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching, noteing withall that they are made to keepe the work or deuise in good order and even proportion--And even if ye will that squares be greater, make of two, one, four, two, and soe they will be larger. And in this manner may you proceed in all.

God prosper your desires.

Then follows the dedication:

To the Right Worshipful Gentlewoman, Mistress Susan Saltonstall, wife to the right Worshipfull Mr. Richard Saltonstall, Alderman of the City of London (afterwards Lord Mayor, and knighted in 1597).

It being my chance (Right Worshipfull) to lighten upon certaine paternes of cut-worke and others brought out of Foreign Countries which have bin greatly accepted of by divers Ladies and Gentlewomen of sundrie nations and consequently of the common people; This seemed unto mee a sufficient instance and argument to bestowe likewise some paines for the publishing thereof, But being in suspense of the dedication two causes induced mee to imbolden myselfe to present it unto your acceptation and patronage: First because that rare devises and inventions are for the most part more agreeable and gratefuller accepted, than ordinarie and common things, although of great price and value, Secondlie because these workes belong chiefly to Gentlewomen for to passe away their time in vertuous exercises Wherefore to fit and accommodate the dedication aright to the contents and subject of the

## book I thought it not amisse to offer it unto your worship in token of

thankfullness for so many benefites which I have received so bountifullie at your hands Assuring myselfe moreover that as these patternes will bring sufficient contentment and profite to all well-willers, that are desirous of this Arte, soe they shall for ever acknowledge themselves to be beholden chiefly unto you, being the chiefest occasion of the publishing and setting forthe thereof. And therefore uppon hope that you will take these inventions in good parte, which in time I am purposed (If God permit) to increase and augment with more paternes of worke. In the meantime I pray God give to your Worship a happie prosperous and long life with a full accomplishment of all your vertuous desires.

Your worshipps most dutiful Servant and Kinsman, ADRIAN POYNTZ.

74.

[Sidenote: 1591. _Bologna. T. Pasini._]

Fiori di ricami nuovamente posti in luce ne i quali sono varii, et diversi dissegni di lavori; Come Merli, Bauari, Manichetti, & altre sorti di opere, che al presente sono in uso, utilissimi ad ogni stato di Donne. Seconda Impressione.

Impresa of Mercury. Below--

In Bologna, per Giovanni Rossi. MDXCI. Ad instanza di Tomaso Pasini.[1330]

{484}Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 18 plates like Vecellio, one "bavaro."

Dedicated by the author to "La Signora Silveria Rossi Ghisolieri."

Mostly indented patterns on black grounds.

75.

[Sidenote: 1591. _Venice. F. di Franceschi._]

Prima Parte de' fiori, e disegni di varie sorti di Ricami moderni come merli, bavari, manichetti, & altri nobili lavori che al presente sono in uso.

A figure of Peace. Below--

In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della Pace 1591.[1331]

Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 17 plates in the style of Vecellio.

Dedication to "La Signora Gabriella Zeno Michele," signed "Di Venetia alli 19 di Marzo, 1591, Giovanbattista Ciotti." The last plate a figure of Fortune, with "Finis in Venetia 1591. Appresso Nicolo Moretti, ad instantia di Francesco di Franceschi."

76.

[Sidenote: 1591. _Venice. F. di Franceschi._]

La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di ricami & di cucire ogni sorti de punti à foglami, punti tagliati, punti a fili & rimessi, punti incrociati, punti à stuoro & ogn' altre arte, che dia opera à disegni. E di nuovo aggiuntovi varie sorti di merli, e mostre, che al presente sono in uso & in pratica.

Impresa of Peace differing from the preceding.

In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della Pace. 1591.[1332]

Obl. 8vo, 86 ff., 72 plates.

Dedicated to "Signora Lucretia Contarini, per matrimonio Priula Nobile Gentildonna Venetiana," by Giovanni Ostans.

A woodcut of Lucretia working with her maidens, signed Jose Sol. 1557.

Patterns, Small Squares, Gorgets, Youth, Paris, Pyramus and Thisbe, Arabesques, Grotesques, and an Alphabet.

On the last leaf, dorso, A. B. C. D. "tutte sono quaderni." A figure again of Peace, and "In Ven. 1590."

77.

[Sidenote: 1592. _Venice. 1st Book. C. Vecellio._]

Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro primo. Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutti le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra {485}sorte cosi per Freggi come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta impressione molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti.

Then follows the printer's impresa of the stork and serpent. "Voluptatum et malorum effetuu dissipatio," with a lady at work on each side, and below--

Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592.[1333]

Which is repeated in the 2nd and 3rd Books.

Obl. 4to, 32 ff., 28 plates.

Dedication of Vecellio "Alla Clarissima, et Illustrissima Signora, Viena Vendramina Nani, dignatissima Consorte dell' Illust^{amo} Sig. Polo Nani, il Procurator di S. Marco," in which he refers to his work on costume, and says that he dedicates this book to her for the delight she takes in these works and "in farne essercitar le donne di casa sua, ricetto delle piu virtuose giovani che hoggidì vivano in questa città." Signed: Venice, Jan. 20, 1591.

Beautiful designs, among which are three corners for handkerchiefs, the last lettered: "Diverse inventioni p. cantoni dee fazoletti."

On Plate 3, within a point coupé border, is a statue of Venus standing upon a tortoise, with other figures, and above, "Conviensi, che della Donna la bontà, & non la bellezza sia divulgata," and underneath:--

"Veneer io son, de le mirabil mani Del dotto Fidia d' un bel marmo finta. In me vedete atti gentili, e humani, Ch' esser dè Donna à gentilezza accinta. Io sopra una Testugine dimora, Perchè stia in Casa, e sia tacita ogn' hora."

[Sidenote: _2nd Book._]

Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro secondo.

Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutte le sorti di Mostre de puute tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra sorte, cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molti delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta Impressione molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti. Con Privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592.

28 ff., 26 plates.

The dedication of this and the next book, though differently worded, are addressed to the same lady as the first. This is dated Jan. 24, 1591.

Among the patterns are two designs for handkerchiefs, and on the last plate a statue of Vesta, within a point coupé border.

[Sidenote: _3rd Book._]

Corono delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel {486}quale si dimostra in varii dissegni molte sorti di Mostri di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati, Punti a reticello, and ancora di picciole; cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidi per tutta l'Europa. Con alcune altre inventione di Bavari all' usanza Venetiana. Opera nouva e non più in luce. Con privilegio. In Venetia Appresso Cesare Vecellio, stà in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Petri. 1592.

Dedication dated June 15, 1591. Vecellio says he has added "alcune inventioni di bavari all' usanza nostra." In the copy (Bib. de l'Arsenal, 11,955 _bis_) are added instructions to transfer the patterns upon parchment without injuring the book. The last plate shows how to reduce the patterns and how to prick them (Fig. 170). This is sometimes given at the end of the first book instead of the third.

28 ff., 26 plates, two of bavari.

[Illustration: Fig. 170.

MANNER OF PRICKING THE PATTERN.--(Vecellio.)]

On Pl. 27, woman with a torch and Cupid. At Pl. 28, in a point coupé border, is a fox holding the bust of a lady, the conceit of which is explained by the verses to be, that sense is better than beauty:--

"Trovò la Volpe d' un Scultore eletto Una testa sì ben formata, tale, Che sol le manca Spirito havresti detto, Tanto l' industria, e l' arteficio vale, La prende in man, poi dice; O che perfetto Capo, e gentil; ma voto è d' inteletto."

78.

[Sidenote: 1594. _Venice. C. Vecellio._]

Gioiello della corona per le nobili e virtuose donne. Libro quarto. Nel quale si dimostra altri nuovi bellissimi Dissegni di tutte le sorte di Mostre di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati & Punti à Reticello; così per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali mostre possono servire anchora per opere à Mazzette Nuovament posto in luce con molte bellissime inventioni non mai più usate, nè vedute. Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nella Casa de i Preti. 1594.

Same impresa of the stork and serpent.

Dedicated to the Sign. Isabella Palavicina Lupi Marchesa di Soragana, dated "Venetia alli 20 Novembrio 1592." Cesare Vecellio. 30 plates.[1334]

{487}Vecellio, author of the _Corona_ and _Gioiello_, also published a work on costume styled _Degli Habiti Antichi et Moderni_. _In Venezia_, 1590. _Presso Damian Zenero._ In the frontispiece is a salamander; on the last leaf a figure of Vesta. It has been reproduced by F. Didot, Paris.

He was not, as is often incorrectly stated, a relation, or even of the same family as Titian.

These are the earliest impressions we have had an opportunity of examining of Vecellio's works, which appear to have been widely circulated. The Bib. de l'Arsenal possesses two copies of the _Corona_ (No. 11,955), from which we have described. In the other (No. 11,155 _bis_), Book 1 "ultima," Book 2 "quarta," are both dated 1593; and Book 3 "nuovamente ristampata la quarta volta," 1592. The plates all the same.

The Library of Rouen (No. 1,315) has a volume containing the _Corona_ and _Gioiello_. Book 1 "quarta Imp.," Book 2 "ultima," both dated 1594; and Book 3 "quinta," 1593. The _Gioiello_, 1593.

In the Bodleian is a copy of the three books, date 1592; and another, date 1561, was in the possession of the late Mrs. Dennistoun of Dennistoun.

At Venice, in the Doge's Library, is a volume containing the three books of the _Corona_ and the _Gioiello_, dated 1593.

Mrs. Stisted, Bagni di Lucca, also possesses the three books of the Corona, dated 1597, and the Gioiello, 1592.

At Bologna the Library has one volume, containing the first and second books only, evidently the original impressions. The titles are the same as the above, only to each is affixed, "Opera nuova e non più data in luce," and "Stampata per gli Hered' della Regina. 1591. An instantia di Cesare Vecellio, Stà in Frezzaria."

The same Library also possesses a volume, with the three books of the _Corona_, the first and third "ottava," the second "quarta," and the _Gioiello_, "nuovamente posto in luce." All "In Venetia appresso gli heredi di Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria. 1608."

At Vienna, in the new Museum for Art and Industry, is a copy of the five books, dated 1601.[1335]

Cav. Merli cites from a copy of the four books, dated 1600.

The various impressions, therefore, date from 1591 to 1608.

We see these different parts, like those of Vinciolo and all these old collections, have been printed and reprinted independently of each other, since the third part was at its fifth impression in 1593, while the first, which ought to have preceded it, was only at its fourth in 1594.[1336]

79.

[Sidenote: 1593. _St. Gall. G. Strauben._]

New Model Buch darinnen allerley Gattung schöner Modeln der newen aussgeschitnen Arbeit auff Krägen, Hempter, Jakelet und dergleichen zu newen, so zuvor in Teutschlandt nicht gesehen. Allen thugentsamen Frawen und Jungkfrawen, Nätterinnen, auch allen audern so lust zu solcher kunstlichen Arbeit haben, sehr dienstlich.

{488}Getruckt in uerlegung George Strauben, von S. Gallem, Anno 1593.[1337]

_Translation._

New Patternbook, in which are all sorts of beautiful patterns of the new cutwork for collars, shirts, jackets, and such like, such as never before were seen in Germany. Most useful to all virtuous dames and such artistic works, very respectfully dedicated.

Printed for the publisher, G. Strauben.

A reprint of the third book of Vecellio's Corona.

80.

[Sidenote: _N.D. Lindau am Bodensee._]

Neu Model-Buch, darinnen allerley gattung schöner Modeln der neuen, etc.

Probably a reprint of No. 79.

27 plates.

81.

[Sidenote: 1597. _Liége. J. de Glen._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraits, pour toutes sortes de lingeries de Jean de Glen, dediés à Madame Loyse de Perez; à Liége, chez Jean de Glen, l'an 1597.[1338]

Obl. 4to, 39 plates, mostly borrowed from Vinciolo, as well as the title.

82.

[Sidenote: 1596. _Florence. M. Florini._]

Fior di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce. Fiorenze, 1596, ad instanza di Mattheo Florini.

4to obl., 24 plates and 2 leaves of text.[1339]

83.

[Sidenote: 1603. _Siena. M. Florini._]

Fiori di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce nei quali sono varie et diversi disegni di lavori, como merli, bavari, manichetti e altre sorte di opera. Siena, appresso Matteo Florini, 1603.

4to obl., 24 pages.[1340]

84.

[Sidenote: 1603. _Siena. M. Florini._]

Giojello, &c. Nel quale si di mostra altri novi bellissimi disegni di tutte le sorte, di mostre &c. ... di punti &c., cosi {489}per fregi come per merli et rosette che con l' aco si usanno hoggi di per tutte l' Europa. Opere a Mazzetto nuovamente posta in luce con motte bellissime inventioni non mai più usate ne vedute. In Siena, Matteo Florini MDCIII.

4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)

85.

[Sidenote: 1597. _Nuremberg. B. Laimoxen._]

Schön neues Modelbuch von allerley lüstigen Mödeln naczunehen zu würken un zu sticke; gemacht im Jar Ch. 1597, zu Nürmberg, bey Balthaser Laimoxen zu erfragen.[1341]

_Translation._

Fine new Patternbook of all sorts of pleasant patterns for sewing, working, and embroidering: made in the year of Christ 1597, at Nurmberg: to be had of Balthasar Laimoxen.

Obl. fol., 27 ff.

5 sheets, title-page, and poem, signed J. S. (Johann Sibmacher.)

Mr. Gruner has communicated to us a work with the same title, dated 1591.[1342]

86.

[Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._]

Nouveaux pourctraicts de point coupé et dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme nouvellement inventez & mis en lumiere Imprimé a Montbéliard par Jacques Foillet (|)|)xciix (1598).[1343]

Small 4to, 82 ff., 78 plates.

Frontispiece with borders composed of squares of point coupé.

"Avertissement aux dames," of three pages, stating these works are all composed of "point devant l'esguille, de point en toille, en bouclages, & de cordonnages." The writer gives patterns of roses of all sizes, "very little, middling, large, and very large," with from one to nine _pertuis_, or openings, holes. Also Carreaux in different forms, and lastly _dantelles_. "Je n'ay voulu omettre de vous dire que pour faire des dantelles, il vous fault jetter un fil de la grandeur que desiré faire vos dantelles, & les cordonner, puis jetter les fils au dedans, qui fera tendre le cordon & lui donnera la forme carrée, ronde, ou telle forme que desires, ce qu'estant faict vous paracheverès facilement. Enoultre vous verrez qu'estant bien petites deviennent peu a peu bien grandes jusques a la fin. Elles vous enricheront & embelliront vos ouvrages en les applicant aux bords d'iceux." Directions, we confess, perfectly enigmatical to us. The author finishes by exhorting the ladies to imitate Minerva and Arachne, "qui ont acquis un grand renom, pour avoir (c[=o]me à l'envie l'une de l'autre) travaillé de l'esguille."

The avertissement is followed by an "Exhortation aux jeunes filles." in verse, of 21 lines, beginning--

"Si nuisible est aux humains la paresse," etc.

40 patterns of "roses," of point coupé.

{490}And 18 of "Carreaux," variously disposed.

Then follow 20 patterns of lace, of "bien petites, petites, moyennes, & grosses," all "au point devant l'Esguille." (See Figs. 8 to 12.)

At the end: "La fin courone l'oeuvre." This is the earliest pattern-book in which the word "dantelle" occurs.

87.

[Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._]

New Modelbuch darinnen allerley ausgeschnittene Arbeit, in kleiner, mittelmässiger und grosser form erst neulich erfunden. Allen tugenden Frawen vnnd Jungfrawen sehr nutzlich. Gedruckt zu Mumpelgarten durch Jacob Foillet, 1598.[1344]

88.

[Sidenote: 1599. _Basle._]

Fewrnew Modelbuch von allerhandt Künstlicher Arbeidt, nämlich Gestricht, Aussgezogen, Aussgeschnitten, Gewiefflet, Gesticht, Gewirckt, und Geneyt: von Wollen, Garn, Faden, oder Seyden: auff der Laden, und Sonderlich auff den Ramen, Jetzt Erstmals in Teutschlandt an Tag gebracht: Zu Ehren und Gl[=u]cklicher Zeitvetreibung allen dugentsamen Frawen, und Jungfrawen Nächerinen, auch allen andern, so lust zu solcher Kunstlicher Arbeit haben sehr dienstlich. Getruckt zu Basel.

In verlegung Ludwig K[=u]nigs MDXCIX.[1345]

Small obl., 33 ff., 32 plates.

Frontispiece border of point coupé. Title in Gothic red and black. Patterns, mostly borders, number of stitches given, "Mit xxxxvii., Bengen," etc. "Ende dieses modelbuchs."

89.

[Sidenote: 1601. _Paris._]

Béle Prérie contenant divers caracters, et differentes sortes de lettres alphabetiques, à sçavoir lettres Romaines, de formes, lettres pour appliquer sur le reseuil ou lassis, et autres pour marquer sur toile et linges, par Pier. le Bé. Paris, 1601.[1346]

In 4to obl.

90.

[Sidenote: 1601. _Nuremberg. Sibmacher._]

Modelbuch in Kupfer gemacht, Nürmberg, bei Michel Kuisner, 1601, by J. Sibmacher.[1347]

91.

[Sidenote: 1604. _Nuremberg. J. Sibmacher._]

Newes Modelbûch fûr Kûpfer gemacht, darinnen allerhand art newen Model von dem Mittel und Dick ausgeschniden duer {491}Arbeit auch andern kunstlichen Nahework zu gebrauchen mit Fluss fur druck verfertigt. Mit Röm. Kais. Maj trentich Nürmberg 1604.[1348]

_Translation._

New book of patterns (on copper) in which are copied out all kinds of new patterns for thick and thin materials, to be used also in the making of other artistic needlework.

Obl. 4to, 58 plates carefully engraved upon copper.

Title-page surrounded by a richly ornamented border, with two figures, one sewing, the other at embroidery; also a second ornamented frontispiece, dedication to Maria Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, dated 1601. Nuremberg, J. Sibmacher, citizen and engraver.

Then follow five pages of dialogue, given page 6, note 24, and 227.

A printed title to the next plate. "The following pattern may be worked in several different ways, with a woven seam, a flat, round, or crossed Jew stitch."[1349] It is probably meant for cut-work made on thin materials.

Then follow 58 leaves of patterns, the greater number of which have the number of rows written over each pattern. Pl. 38, with two patterns, is inscribed, "The following patterns are for thick cut-work." In the upper pattern, on the first leaf, are the arms of the Palatine; on the second, those of Juliers and Mark.

92.

[Sidenote: 1600. _Venice. I. C. Parasole._]

Pretiosa gemma delle virtuose donne dove si vedono bellissimi lavori di ponti in aria, reticella, di maglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni altri bellissimi lavori nuovamente inventati. Stampata in Venetia ad instantia di Luchino Gargano MDC.[1350] See also No. 99.

93.

[Sidenote: _N. D._]

Allerhand Model zum Stricken un Nähen.[1351]

Obl. 4to, 64 plates. No date.

94.

[Sidenote: 1604. _Padua. P. P. Fozzi._]

A book of models for point coupé and embroidery, published at Padua, October 1st, 1604, by Pietro Paolo Fozzi. "Romano."[1352]

95.

[Sidenote: 1605. _Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus._]

Schön newes Modelbuch von 500 schönen aussor wählten, Kunstlichen, so wol Italiähnischen, Frantzösischen, {492}Niederländischen, Engelländischen, als Teutschen Mödeln, Allen, Näher.... hstichern, &c., zu nutz. (_Some of the words are illegible._)

Livre des Modelles fort utile à tous ceux qui besoignent à l'esguille.

At the foot of last page recto is, "Franckfurt am Mayn, bey Sigismund Latomus, 1605."[1353]

Small obl. 100 plates (Fig. 171), and coloured title-page with figures.

[Illustration: Fig. 171.

FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN, 1605.]

In the first plate is an escutcheon with this monogram (Fig. 172) surrounded with embroidery.

[Illustration: Fig. 172.

MONOGRAM.]

In the Nuremberg copy it is at p. 83.

96.

[Sidenote: 1607. _Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus._]

Schön newes Modelbuch, Von hundert vnd achtzig schönen kunstreichen vnd gerechten Mödeln, Teutsche vnd Welsche, welche auff mancherley Art können geneet werden, als mit Zopffnath, Creutz vnnd Judenstich, auch auff Laden zu wircken: Dessgleichen von ausserlesenen Zinnigen oder Spitzen. Allen Seydenstickern, Mödelwirckerin, Näderin, vnd solcher Arbeitgeflissenen Weibsbildern sehr dienstlich, vnd zu andern Mustern {493}anleytlich vnd verstendig. Franckfurt am Mayn, In Verlegung Sigismundi Latomi. M.D.C.VII.[1354]

Small 4to obl. 180 patterns.

Sheets A-O (the last has only 3 leaves). On the title-page are two ladies, one working at a pillow, the other at a frame; in the back-ground, other women employed at various works. Another copy dated 1629. Mr. Arnold and Mr. F. S. Ellis.

97.

[Sidenote: 1605. _Paris. M. Mignerak._]

La pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias Mignerak Anglois, ouvrier fort expert en toute sorte de lingerie ou sont tracez Divers compartimens de carrez tous differans en grandeur et invention avec les plus exquises bordures, desseins d'ordonnances qui se soient veux jusques à ce jourd'hui tant poetiques historiques, qu'au tres ouvrages de point de rebord. Ensemble Les nouvelles invencions Françoises pour ce qui est de devotion et contemplation. A la Tres-Chrestiene Roine de France et de Navarre. Avec privilege 1605 du Roy.[1355]

A Paris, par Jean Leclerc, rue St.-Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre roialle.

EXTRACT FROM "DISCOURS DU LACIS."

"Ce chef d'oeuvre divin n'est pas à l'adventure Mais par art composé, par nombre, et par mesure; Il commence par un, et va multipliant Le nombre de ses trouz qu'un noeud va reliant, Sans perdre aucunement des nombres d'entresuitte, Croissant, et decroissant d'une mesme conduitte: Et ainsi qu'il commence il acheve par un, Du monde le principe et le terme commun. Si l'on veut sans faillir cet ouvrage parfaire, Il faut multiplier, adjouster, et soustraire: Il faut bien promptement assembler, et partir, Qui veut un beau Lacis inegal compartir. Mais se peut il trouver, souz la voute azurée, Chose plus justement en tous sens mesurée? Ouvrage ou il y ait tant de proportions, De figures, de traicts et de dimensions? D'un point premièrement une ligne l'on tire, Puis le filet courbé un cercle va descrire, Et du cercle noué se trouve le quarré Pour lequel retrouver tant d'esprits ont erré. De six mailles se faict une figure egale, De trois costez esgaux, pour forme pyramidale: Et l'ouvrage croissant, s'en forme promptement {494} Une autre dont les deux sont egaux seulement. Si l'on tire un des coings, se forme une figure. D'un triangle en tout sens, d'inegale mesure. Le moule plus tiré faict les angles pointuz, Et l'ouvrage estendu faict les angles obtuz. De mailles à la fin un beau quarré se faict, Composé de quarrez, tout egal, et parfaict, Quarré qui toutesfois se forme variable, Or en lozange, et or en figure de table. La bande de Lacis recouvert, à nos yeux, Est comme un beau pourtraict de l'escharpe des cieux, Dont chaque endroit ouvré nous represente un signe, Le milieu, les degrez de l'Eclyptique ligne; Le quarré, des vertus le symbole, et signal De science du livre et bonnet doctoral, Nous va representant l'Eglise et la Justice. La façon de lacer figure l'exercice D'enfiler une bague on bien l'art d'escrimer. . . . . . Le lacis recouvert sert de filet aux dames Pour les hommes suprendre et enlacer leurs ames, Elles en font collets, coiffures, et mouchoirs, Des tentures de lits, tauayoles, pignoirs, Et maint autre ornement dont elles les enlacent, C'est pourquoi en laçant les femmes ne se lassent."

In 4to, 76 ff., 72 plates.

Frontispiece: Two ladies, with frames in their hands, labelled "Diana" and "Pallas." On the top, an escutcheon per pale France and Medicis, supported by Cupids. Beneath, Cupids with distaff and winding reels. Between the sides of a pair of scissors is a cushion on which is extended a piece of lacis, a "marguerite" in progress. (See Fig. 6.) Above, "Petrus Firens fecit, I. le Clerc excud." Below, "A Paris par Jean le Clerc Rue St. Jean de Latran à la Salamandre royalle."

Dedication of Jean le Clerc "A la royne," then Marie de Medicis, stating: "J'avois recouvré d'un personnage Anglois tres-expert en toute sorte de Lingerie;" but who this Milour Mignerak may be, history tells not.

Then follows the "Discours du Lacis," a poem, of which we give an extract.

The privilege is signed Aug. 2, 1605.

The patterns consist of the Queen's arms and cypher, 4 Scripture subjects: Adam and Eve, the annunciation, Ecce Homo, and Magdalen; 4 Elements, 4 Seasons; Roman Charity, Lucretia, Venus, and "Pluye d'or;" 6 Arbes à fruit, 6 Pots à fleurs, 30 Carrés grands, moyens et petits; 6 Bordures, and, what is quite a novelty, 6 "Passements faits au fuseau." (See Fig. 13): the first mention of pillow lace in any of the French pattern-books.

98.

[Sidenote: 1613. _Paris. F. Vinciolo._]

Les secondes oeuvres, et subtiles inventions de Lingerie du Seigneur Federic de Vinçiolo Venitien; nouvellement augmenté de plusieurs carrez de point de rebort. Dediée à Madame, soeur unique du roy. Ou sont representees plusieurs figures de Reseau, nombres de Carrez et Bordures tous differents, le tout de poinct conté, avec autres sortes de Carrez de nouvelles inventions non encore vues.

{495}A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc, rue sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre, 1613. Avec privilege du Roy.[1356]

A scarce and valuable volume, the fullest edition of the second part of Vinciolo's work.

4to, 68 ff., 61 plates.

It contains a--

SONNET AUX DAMES & DAMOYSELLES.

"Esprits rarement beaux qui fuyez la paresse, Je vous fais un present qui la pourra chasser, Quand vous desirez de gayement passer Vostre temps, et monstrer de vostre main l'adresse.

Le present est utile et plein de gentillesse, Il monstre les moyens de bien entrelasser. Et faire au point couppé tout ce qu'on peut penser. Cet exercise plaist à Pallas la Deesse.

Par ses enseignemens, avec l'esguille on fait Des fleurons, des oyseaux, en ouvrage parfait, Des chiffres et des noeuds, tels que l'amour desire.

Aymez cet exercise, et vous y occupez, Et puis vous cognoistrez que sur les points couppez En diverses façons quelque portrait se tire."

The author's address to the reader, and a

Dedication to "Madame, soeur unique du roy" (Catherine de Bourbon, sister of Henry IV., married, 1599, to the Duc de Bar), signed by Le Clerc.

On the second plates are her arms, a lozenge, France and Navarre with crown and cordelière, and the same lozenge also surmounts the decorated frontispiece, supported on either side by a genius (?) working at a frame and point coupé drapery.

7 Scripture subjects: The Salutation, St. Sacrement, Passion, Crucifixion, Adoration of the Kings, etc.; the number of the stitches given to each.

2 Stomachers, and various patterns of "carrez " and borders. 2 of "Point de rebort."

At the end is the "Discours du Lacis," already printed by Mignerak.

99.

[Sidenote: 1616. _Rome. E. C. Parasole._]

Teatro delle nobili et virtuose donne, dove si rappresentano varij disegni di lavori novamente inventati et disegnati da Elisabetta Catanea Parasole Romana.

Dedicata alla Serenissima Principessa Donna Elisabetta Borbona d' Austria, Principessa di Spagna, da E. C. Parasole. Data di Roma a di 5 Marzo 1616.[1357] Other editions, 1620, 1625, and 1636. The last is dedicated to the Grand Duchess of {496}Tuscany, and has the Medici and Della Rovere arms in the title-page.

Obl. 4to, 47 ff., 46 plates (44 in Prince Massimo's copy) beautifully executed, the titles printed to each plate, as "Lavori di punti in aria, Merletti di ponti reticella, Merletti a piombini," etc. (See Fig. 15.)

100.

[Sidenote: 1600. _Venice. I. C. Parasole._]

Pretiosa gemme delle virtuose donne dore si vedono bellisimi lavori di ponto in aria, reticella, dimaglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni altri bellisimi lavori nuovamente inventate. Stampata in Venetea ad instantia de Luchino Gargano MDC.[1358]

101.

[Sidenote: 1625. _Rome. I. C. Parasole._]

Gemma pretiosa delle virtuose donne, dore si vedono bellisimi lavori de Ponti in Aria, Reticella, di Maglia, e Piombini disegnatida Isabella Catanea Parasole.

In Rome, appreso Guliegno Facciotti, 1625.

102.

[Sidenote: 1618. _Frankfort on the Mayn. D. Meyer._]

Zierat Buch, von allerhandt Kutschnur, Schleyer deckel, Krägen, Leibgürtel, Passmenten, Händschug, Wehrgeheng und Schubenehen, Messerscheyden, Secklen, Früchten, Blumen und ands. mehr.

Allen Perlenbefftern, Nederin, Lehrinngen und andern welche lust zu dieser Kunst tragen, sehr nützlich.

Inn diese Format zusammen ordiniert und gsetzt durch Daniel Meyer Mahlern. 1ster Theil.

Franckfuhrt am Mayn, bey Eberhardt Kusern zu finden.

11 ff., 9 plates.

_Translation._

Decoration book of all sorts of Cords, Veil covers, Collars, Belts, Laces, Gloves, Shoulder knots, shoe-seams (?), Knife sheaths, Bags, Fruit, Flowers, and other things besides. Very useful to all Beadworkers, Seamstresses, Apprentices, and others, who take a pleasure or are fond of this art. Arranged and put into this form by D. M. M. 1st part.

103.

[Sidenote: 1619. _Leipsic. A. Bretschneider._]

New Modelb[)u]ch Darinnen allerley kunstliche Virsirung und Müster artiger Z[)u]ege und schöner Bl[)u]mmen zu zierlichen Ueberschlagen, Haupt Schurtz Schn[)u]ptüchern Hauben Handschuhen, Uhren (?) gehenzen, Kampfütern [)u]nd dergleichen auf Muhler naht und Seidenst[)u]cker arbeit gantz Kunstlich gemahlt {497}und vorgerissen, dergleichen sie bevorn noch nie in Druck ausgegangen. 16 Leipzicht 19.

Inn Verleg[)u]ng Henning Grosseren, de J[)u]ngeren Andreas Bretschneider Mahller.[1359]

_Translation._

New pattern-book, in which all sorts of artistic ornamentations and patterns of pretty stuffs and beautiful flowers for covers for Head, Aprons, and Pocket-handkerchiefs, Caps, Gloves, Clock cases, Comb Cases, and such like, artistically sketched from painter and silk embroiderer's work, and which have never before gone out of print.

Small folio, 53 plates, and half a sheet of text, containing the dedication of the work to Madame Catherine von Dorstats, née Löser. There appear to be 3 plates wanting.

104.

[Sidenote: 1624. _London._]

A Schole House for the Needle. 1624.[1360]

Obl. 4to. Was sold at the White Knight's sale for £3 15s.

105.

[Sidenote: 1620. _Venice. Lugretia Romana._]

Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel quale si dimostra in varii dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati e punti in aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Retcello, e d' ogn' altra sorte, Cosi per Fregi, per merli e Rosette, che con Aco si viano hoggidi per lutta l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre porsono Serviri ancora per opera à Mozzete. Con le dichiarationi a le Mostre a' Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana. In Venetia, appresso Allessandro de Vecchi, 1620.[1361]

27 ff., obl. 8vo.

106.

[Sidenote: 1625. _Venice. Lugretia Romana._]

Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne, Libro primo, nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in Aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Reticello, e d' ogni altre sorte, cosi per Freggi, per Merli, e Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano per tutta l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre possono servire ancora per opere a Mazzete. Con le dichiarazioni a le Mostre, a Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana.

In Venetia appresso Alessandro de Vecchi MDCXXV. Si vendono in Venetia al Ponte de' Baretteri alla libreria delle tre Rose.[1362]

Lady Wilton, in her _Art of Needlework_, quotes a copy dated 1620.

Obl. 4to, ff. 27. Portrait of Maria d'Aragon.

{498}107.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. Lucretia Romana._]

Ornamento nobile, per ogni gentil matrona, dove si contiene bavari, frisi d' infinita bellezza, lavori, per Linzuoli, Traverse, e Facuoli, Piena di Figure, Ninfe, Satiri, Grotesche, Fontane, Musiche, Caccie di Cervi, Uccelli, ed altri Animali. Con ponti in aria, fiamenghi, et tagliati, con Adornamenti bellissimi, da imperare, per ogni Virtuosa Donna, che si diletta di perfettamente cucire. Opera, per Pittori, Scultori, e disegnatori giovevole alle lor professioni, Fatta da Lucretia Romana, il quinto volume di Suoi lavori. Dedicato alle Virtuose donne, in Venetia.[1363]

Fol., 20 plates.

Frontispiece, in point coupé frame. A woman in classic attire is represented under a Doric porch, standing on a tortoise, symbol of a home-loving woman. (See No. 77.) She holds a ball of thread in her hand. Behind, on the left, are two women at work; on the right, a sculptor chiselling a statue of Minerva.

The plates, which are rich and beautiful, are each accompanied by a short explanation, as "Degna de esser portata de ogni imperatrice;" "Hopera bellissima che per il piu il Signora Duchesa et altre Signore si servano per li suoi Lavori;" "Questa bellissima Rosette usano auco le gentildonne Venetiane da far traverse," etc. (Fig. 173.)

The bavari are executed in three different stitches: punto d' aieri, p. flamingo, and p. tagliato. This author and Vecellio give Flemish patterns (punti Fiamenghi). They consist mostly of rosettes and stars (gotico).

108.

[Sidenote: 1623. _Paris._]

Les excellents eschantillons, patrons et modelles du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour apprendre à faire toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie, de Poinct couppé, grands et petits passements à jour, et dentelles exquises. Dediez à la Royne. A Paris. Chez la Veufve Jean le Clerc, ruë Sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre Royalle. Avec Privilege du Roy, 1623.[1364]

In 4to, 56 ff.

The old frontispiece and same "Avertissement."

Dedication to the Queen, Anne of Austria.

The Goddess Pallas invented "les ouvrages de lingerie, le poinct couppé, les grands and petits passements à jour, toutes sortes de dentelles, tant pour se desennuyer que se parer, par l'artifice de ses ingenieuses mains. Araciné s'y adonna, and bien qu'inferieure se voulant comparer à elle & en venir à l'experience, mais sa presomption fut chastiée." Many illustrious ladies have delighted in this "honneste exercise." Fastrade and Constance, wives of the Emperor Charlemagne and of King Robert, "s'employèrent de cette manufacture, & de leurs ouvrages ornèrent les églises & les autels." This royal "mestier" has reached perfection through the works of Vinciolo. I reprint and again increase his work, which I dedicate to your Majesty, to whom I presume they will be agreeable; the subject of which it treats is "une invention de déesse & une occupation de Royne--vous estant autant Royne des vertus que vous l'estes de deux royaumes." Signed, "la Veufve de feu Iean le Clerc."

Same sonnet.

Privilege for six years, dated Paris, last day of March, 1623.

55 ff., 58 plates, 24 ouvrages de point couppé and 8 of "Passements au fuzeau" (see Figs. 14 and 15), and alphabet.

[Illustration: Fig. 173.

BAVARO DI PONTO D' AERE.--Con belissime figure ed altri flori.

"BAVARI."--From _Ornamento mobile_ of Lucretia Romana.

_To face page 498._]

{499}109.

A Schole Howse for the Needle. Teaching by sundry sortes of patterns and examples of different kindes, how to compose many faire workes; which being set in order and forme according to the skill and understanding of the workwoman will, no doubt, yield profit unto such as live by the needle and give good content to adorne the worthy. London printed in Shoe Lane at the "Faulcon" by Richard Shorleyker, 1632.

TO THE READER.

Gentle Reader, I would have you know that the Diversities of Examples which you shall find in this "Schoole-howse for the Needle" are only but patternes which serve but to helpe and inlarge your invention. But for the disposing of them into forme and order of Workes that I leave to your own skill and understanding. Whose ingenious and well practised wits will soe readily (I doubt not) compose them into such beautiful formes as will be able to give content, both to the workers and the wearers of them. And againe for your behoafe I have in the end of this booke made two scales or checker patternes which by enlarging or contracting into greater or lesser squares you may enlarge or make lesser any of the saide patternes and examples in the booke or any other whatever.

VALE!

And because I would not have any one mistaken in any of these patternes contayned in this Booke, for some peradventure will look to find workes set out in order as they should be wrought with the needle or florished upon the Tent, &c. But as I have said before in the beginning of this Booke, that, that is here published are only but diversitie of patternes, out of which the workwoman is to take her choice of one or more at her pleasure and so have them drawne out into forme and order of worke. Of which skill if it may be I would have serving-men (such as have time enough) to practice and be skilful in which will be quickly learned if they would, with a little patience applie their mindes to practise it. A quarter of the time that they spend in playing at cards, tables, quaffing and drinking would make them excellent in this knowledge especially such as are ingenious and indued with good wits, as for the most part all of them have; Againe it is a thing that no doubt would yield them both praise and profit, beside the pleasure and delight it would be unto them, and a good inducement to drawe on others of their own ranke and qualitie to the like practice and imitation.

110.

[Sidenote: 1632. _London._]

Here followeth certaine patternes of Cut-workes; and but once Printed before. Also sundry sorts of Spots, as Flowers, Birds, and Fishes, &c., and will fitly serve to be wrought, some {500}with Gould, some with Silke, and some with Gewell (_sic_) or otherwise at your pleasure.

London; Pinted (_sic_) in Shoe-lane, at the signe of the Faulcon, by Richard Shorleyker. 1632.[1365]

Obl. 4to.

The copy in the Bodleian is probably due to the above. It has no date and varies in title: "Newly invented and never published before," with "crewell in coullers," etc.; and "Never but once published before." Printed by Rich. Shorleyker.

33 patterns and title.

111.

[Sidenote: 1640.]

The needles excellency, a new booke wherein are divers admirable workes wrought with the needle. Newly invented and cut in copper for the pleasure and profit of the industrious. Printed for James Boler, &c., 1640.[1366]

"Beneath this title is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower garden, under the names of Wisdom, Industrie, and Follie. Prefixed to the patterns are sundry poems in a commendation of the needle, and describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their skill in needlework, among whom are Queen Elizabeth and the Countess of Pembroke. These poems were composed by John Taylor, the Water Poet. It appears the work had gone through twelve impressions.... From the costume of a lady and gentleman in one of the patterns, it appears to have been originally published in the reign of James I."--(Douce.) From this description of the frontispiece, it seems to be copied from Sibmacher.

"The Needle's Excellency, or a new Book of Patterns, with a poem by John Taylor, in Praise of the Needle." London, 1640. Obl. 4to, engraved title, and 28 plates of patterns. Sold, 1771, £6 17s. 6d. (Lowndes, _Bibliographer's Manual_. New edit., by H. Bohn). Another copy of the same date, marked 12th edition, is in the Library of King's College, Cambridge. It consists of title, four leaves with the poem, subscribed John Taylor, and 31 leaves of copper cuts of patterns.

112.

[Sidenote: 1642 _Pistoja. P. A. Fortunato._]

Le Pompe di Minerva, per le nobili e virtuose donne che con industriosa mano di trattenersi dilettano di far Rezze, maglia quadra, punti in aria, punti in tagliati, punti a reticello, cosi per fregio come per merletti e rosette di varie sorti, si come oggidi con l'aco di lavorar usati per tutto l'Europa, arrichite di bellissimi et vaghi intagli cavati da più celebri autori di tal professione. In Pistoja, per Piero A. Fortunato.

In 8vo obl., dedicated to Caterina Giraldini, in Cellesi. August 20 1642.[1367]

{501}113.

[Sidenote: 1666. _Nuremberg._]

Dass Neue Modelbuch von schönen Nädereyen, Ladengewerk und Soterleins arbeit. Ander theil. Nürnberg, bey Paulus Fürsten Kunsthändler.

Obl. 4to, 3 sheets of text, 50 plates.

Dedicated to the Princess Rosina Helena. Nürnberg, March 20, 1666.[1368]

114.

In the Bib. Imp. (Gravures, L. h. 4. c.) is a vol. lettered "Guipure, gravures burin," containing a collection of patterns engraved on copper, 43 plates, four of which are double, pasted in the book, without title or date. Pomegranates, narcissus, lilies, carnations, most of them labelled "Kreutzstick, Frantzösischenstick, and Fadengewürck" (thread work), the number of stitches given, with Clocks (Zwickel) of stockings and other patterns.

115.

[Sidenote: 1676. _Nuremberg. C. Gerharts._]

Model Buch, dritter Theil von unterschiedlicher Vögeln, Blumen und Früchten &cte. Von und in Verlegung Rosina Helena Fürtin. Nürnberg, Christoff Gerharts, 1676.

4to obl., engraved title and printed list; 42 wood plates, 4 large.

116.

[Sidenote: 1722. _Paris._]

Methode pour faire une infinité de desseins differens, avec des carreaux mi-partis de deux couleurs par une ligne diagnonale ou observations du père Dominique Donat, religieux carme de la province de Touleuse sur une mémoire inserée dans l'histoire de l'Académie royale des sciences à Paris, l'année 1704, presenté par le Rev. Père Sebastien Truchet. Paris, 1722.[1369]

72 geometric squares, with directions how to make them useful to architects, painters, embroiderers, "tous ceux qui se servent de l'aiguille," and others.

117.

[Sidenote: 1784. _Nuremberg and Leipzig. Christoph Weigel._]

Neues Neta- und Strickbuch fur das schöne Geschlecht, worinnen allerhand Zierrathen, wie auch viele neue Zwickel, nebst Buchstaben und Zahlen, sowohl zum Nähen als Stricken in zierlichen Nissen und Mustern befindlich sind. Mit vielen Kupfertafeln. Nürnberg und Leipzig, der Christoph Weigel und Schneider. 1784.[1370]

{502}118.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. F. M. Helmin._]

Continuation der kunst- und fleisz-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu ersonnenen besondern Nehe-Buchs dritter Theil, worinnen fleiszige Liebhaberinnen deeser nöthig und nützlichen Wissenchaft, ihr kunstliches Nadel-Exercitium, beij unterschiedlich vorfallenden Belegenheiten zu haben allerhand noch nie vorgeko[=m]ene Muster zu Deso gebrauch, vorlegt und en die Hand gegeben werden von Fr. Margaretha Helmin, zu finden in Nürnberg bei Joh. Christoph Weigel. Nürnburg. No date.[1371]

Oblong fol.

119.

[Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. J. Chr. Weigel._]

Zierlich webende Minerva, oder neu erfundenes Kunst- und Bild-Buch der Weber- und Zeichner-Arbeit, worinnen treue Anweisung geschieht, wie man kunstlich wirken und schöne Arbeit verfertigen soll, von der vierschäfftigen an, bis auf zwey und dreissig-schafftige. Nurnberg (Johann Christoph Weigel). No date.[1372]

49 plates in sheets.

{503}GLOSSARY OF TERMS.

_Bars._ See _Brides_.

_Bead Edge._ A simple heading for pillow lace.

_Bobbins._ Small elongated wooden or bone reels on which the thread is wound for the purpose of lace-making. They are frequently ornamented with patterns pricked or stained, and polished. They are weighted with "gingles" or "jingles" (_i.e._, beads, coins, seals, seeds, or various articles).

_Brides._ A small strip or connection (1) of threads overcast with buttonhole stitches, or (2) of twisted or plaited threads. It is used instead of a ground-work of net; the word is French, its English equivalent being _pearl-tie_. The French word is chiefly employed.

_Brides ornées_ = brides ornamented with picots, loops, or pearls.

_Buttonhole Stitch._ One of the chief stitches in needle-made lace; also known as _close stitch_, _Point noué_, and _Punto a Feston_.

_Cartisane._ A strip of parchment or vellum covered with silk or gold or metal thread, used to form a pattern.

_Close Stitch_ = Buttonhole stitch.

_Cordonnet._ The outline to ornamental forms. The cordonnet consists (1) of a single thread, or (2) of several threads worked together to give the appearance of one large thread, or (3) of a thread or horsehair overcast with buttonhole stitches. In England called _gimp_.

_Couronnes._ Ornaments to the cordonnet. When they ornament the raised cordonnet in the body of the pattern they are known as _fleurs volantes_.

_Coxcombs_ = Bars.

_Dentélé_ = Scalloped border.

_Droschel._ Flemish word used in Belgium for net-ground made with bobbins.

_Dressed Pillow._ A term used by bobbin-lace makers to intimate that all accessories necessary are in their proper positions.[1373]

{504}_Edge._ There are two edges to lace; the outer, which in trimmings and flounces is either scalloped or ornamented with picots, and the _engrêlure_ or _footing_.

_Engrêlure_ = Footing, or heading, of a lace, used to sew the lace on to the material it is to decorate.

_Entoilage._ French term for a plain mesh ground or galloon.[1374]

_Fil de Crin._ A thick or heavy outline or cordonnet.[1374]

_Fil de Trace._ The name by which the outlines of needle-made laces are distinguished.[1374]

_Fillings._ A word occasionally used for _modes_ or _jours_; fancy stitches employed to fill in enclosed spaces in needle-made and bobbin laces.[1374]

_Flax._ Is composed of the filaments of the fibrous portion of _Linum usitatissimum_, an annual, native of Europe, and from it linen thread is spun. That of Flanders is the best for lace-making.

_Fleurs Volantes._ See _Couronnes_.

_Fond._ Identical with _champ_, _entoilage_, and _treille_. The groundwork of needle-point or bobbin lace as distinct from the toilé or pattern which it surrounds and supports. Grounds are divided into _fonds claires_, _brides claires_, and _brides ornées_. The _fond claires_ include the _Réseau_ or net-patterned grounds. _Fond de Neige_ is also known as _Oeil de Perdrix_.

_Fond Simple._ Sometimes called _Point de Lille_; is the purest, lightest, and most transparent of all grounds. The sides of the meshes are not partly plaited as in Brussels and Mechlin, nor wholly plaited as in Valenciennes and Chioggia; but four of the sides are formed by twisting two threads round each other, and the remaining two sides by simply crossing of the threads over each other. [See _Grounds_.][1374]

_Footing._ See _Engrêlure_.

_Gimp._ The _pattern_ which rests on the ground or is held together by brides. The work should not, however be confounded with the material gimp, which was formerly called _guipure_.

In Honiton and the Midlands, the word denotes the coarse glazed thread used to raise certain edges of the design.[1374]

_Gingles._ A name given in Buckinghamshire, etc., to the bunches of coloured beads hung on to bobbins by means of brass wire, in order to give extra weight and so increase the tension of the threads.[1374]

{505}_Groppo_ [Italian]. A knot or tie.

_Grounds._ The grounds of laces are divided into two classes, one being called the _bride_, the other the _Réseau_. The _bride_ ground is formed with plain or ornamental bars, in order to connect the ornaments forming the pattern. The _Réseau_ ground is a net made with the needle or with bobbins, to connect the ornaments forming the pattern.

_Guipure._ A lace-like trimming of twisted threads. The word is now used to loosely describe many laces of coarse pattern. _Guipure d'Art_ is the name given to modern darned netting.[1375]

_Heading_ = _Footing_, _engrêlure_.

_Jours._ Ornamental devices occurring in various parts of a piece of lace. The earliest forms of _jours_ may be seen in Venetian point lace, where they are introduced into the centre of a flower or other such device. [_Modes_ are identical with _jours_.]

_Legs_ = Bars.

_Mat_, or _Math_. The closely-plaited portions of flowers or leaves in bobbin-made lace; also the closely-worked portion of any lace.[1375]

_Modes._ See _Jours_.

_Oeil de Perdrix._ See _Fond_.

_Orris._ A corruption of Arras. The term is now used to denote galloon for upholstering purposes. In the eighteenth century it was applied to laces of gold and silver.[1375]

_Passement._ Until the seventeenth century, laces, bands, and gimps were called _passements à l'aiguille_; bobbin laces, _passements au fuseau_. At present the word denotes the pricked pattern on parchment upon which both needle-point and bobbin laces are worked.

_Passementerie._ Now used for all kinds of fringes, ribbons, and gimp for dress trimmings.

_Pearls_, or _Purls_ = _Bars_.

_Pearl edge_, or _Purl edge_. A narrow thread edge of projecting loops used to sew upon lace as a finish to the edge.[1375]

_Pearlin_, or _Pearling_ [Scotch]. Lace.

_Picot._ Minute loops worked on to the edge of a _bride_ or _cordonnet_, or added as an enrichment to a flower--as in the case of rose point, in which _picots_ play an important part.

{506}_Pillow Lace._ Lace made on the pillow, by twisting and plaiting threads. The French term is _dentelle au fuseau_.

_Pizzo_ [Italian]. Lace.

_Ply_ = A single untwisted thread.

_Point Lace._ Lace made with the point of the needle. The French term is _Point à l'aiguille_. The term point has been misused to describe varieties of lace, such as _Point d'Angleterre_, _Point de Malines_, etc., which are laces made on the pillow, and not with the point of the needle.

_Point de Raccroc._ A stitch used by lace-makers to join _réseau_ ground.

_Point Noué_ = Buttonhole stitch.

_Point Plat._ A French term for flat point executed without a raised cordonnet or outline cord.[1376]

_Pricked._ The term used in pillow lace-making to denote the special marking out of the pattern upon parchment.

_Pricker._ A short instrument used in bobbin lace to prick holes in the pattern to receive the pins.[1376]

_Punto a Feston_ = Buttonhole stitch.

_Purls_ = _Brides_.

_Purlings_ = A stitch used in Honiton guipure to unite the bobbin-made sprigs.[1376]

_Réseau._ Ground of small regular meshes made on the pillow in various manners, and made by the point of the needle in fewer and less elaborate manners. The French term, as here given, is generally used in preference to any English equivalent.

_Réseau Rosacé._ See _Argentella_ (Ch. ARGENTAN).

_Rouissage._ The process of steeping the flax preparatory to its being spun for lace-making.

_Rezél_, _Reseuil._ See LACIS, Chap. II.

_Runners._ The name by which the bobbins which work across a pattern in bobbin lace are known.

_Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler.

{507}INDEX

Aberdeen, qualifications of schoolmistress of, 431 n1209

Aberdein, Mrs. Frank, cited, 400 n1140

Abrahat, Mrs., pensioned by Queen Anne, 347

Abrantès, Duchesse d', 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638

Abruzzi, the, lace-making in, 68

Addison, cited, 349

Addo, Marquis d', 459 n1264

Adelaide, Queen, 409 and n1155, n1156

Adélaïde de France, 182

Adelhaïs, Queen (wife of Hugh Capet), 5

Agriculture, women employed in, lace-makers contrasted with, 370

Aquesseau, Chancellor d', quoted, 264

Alb lace, at Granada, 92

Albert, Archduke of Austria, 113 n326

------ Museum (Exeter), tallies in, 78 n242

Albissola, lace manufacture at, 75, 77 and n240, 78, 79 and n246

Alcuid, embroidery taught by, 6

Alenches, 249

Alençon numbers of lace-workers at Chantilly and, (1851), 257 n688, refugees from, in 18th century, 347

--------, Duke d', 140 n395

-------- lace (see Point d'Alençon)

Alice, Princess, bridal dress of, 409

Almagro, lace industry at, 102 and n297, 103 n305

Aloe thread, Florentine use of, 93 n273

---- thread lace Greek, 86 Italian, 79 and n245 Portuguese, 107 Spanish, 91, 93, 99, 101

Alost Valenciennes, ground stitch of, 133

Altar-cloths, alternate designs on, 24 Bock collection, in, 23 Prague, at (by Anne of Bohemia), 9

Altar frontal in point conté, (Mrs. Hailstone's), 23

Altenburg, 268

Alva, Duke of, 366 n1085

Alvin, M., 480 n1322

Amelia, Princess, 128

America, impulse given to lace industry by U.S., 187 lace imported to, from-- Bailleul, 241 England (baby lace) 385 Grammont, 134 Italy, 75, 79 Mirecourt, 253 Portugal, 106 Saxony, 263 Spain, 102 Puritan lace-makers in, 372 n1099 war with, effect of, on lace trade, 408

Amsterdam, establishment of lace fabric at, 259

Anderson, quoted, 74, 83, 101, 124, 271,288, 371 n1093, 384, 396; cited, 264 n709, 265 n713, 286, 397

--------, Lady, robbery at house of, 346

Angoulême, Duchesse d', 196

Anne of Austria, influence of, on French fashions, 147, 150 Mechlin veil of, 125-126 and n356 pattern-book dedicated to, 144, 498 pilgrimage to Thierzac, 248 presents of English lace from Henrietta Maria to, 330 and n961, 401

---- of Bohemia, Queen (wife of Richard II.), altar-cloth by, 9

---- of Denmark, cost of lace of, 317 and n904, 320 and n925 Elizabeth's old clothes presented to, 320 English home industries encouraged by, 319 foreign lace purchased by, 327 funeral of, 325 and n934

---- of England (Queen Anne) household management of, 174 n516 Mechlin lace of, 126 and n360 period of, 347-350

Anspach, 265

--------, Margrave of, 178

Anti-Gallican Society Edinburgh and Dublin Societies contemporaneous with, 429 prizes awarded by, 119, 262, 297, 355 and n1058, 374 and nn, 380, 395, 398, 404 records of, cited, 373

Antwerp book sale at (1864), 482 Brussels lace made at, 130 Mechlin lace made at, 125 -------- lace arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 Brussels lace compared with, 118 first mention of, 129 and n367 Spanish market for, 129-130

-------- lace-makers, in London (1618-1688), 129 n366

Anzola, M., 474

Application lace, 122; flowers, 252

Appliqueuse, work of, 122

Aprons, laced, 309 and n873, 338, 356 and n1062

Aranda, Madame d', 98 n280

Arbroath, effigy formerly in church of, 418

Ardee, braid and cord lace made at, 446

Ardfert Abbey, lace shroud found at, 436

Argentan, 202 and n569

-------- lace. _See_ Point d'Argentan

Argentella, 78 n244, 193 and n555

Argentine of Dorset, 310 n877

Argyle, Duchess of. _See_ Hamilton

Armada pattern lace of Queen Charlotte, 397

Armstrong, Mrs. Rachel, 438

Arnold, E., cited, 466, 469 n1286, 471 n1299

Arras early industries of, 239 gold lace of, 240 lace industry of, 238-240 lace of, compared with that of Lille, 235, 240; with that of Mirecourt, 252 number of lace workers (1851), 257 n688

Arundel, Countess of, 12

--------, Lady, quoted, 395

Assizes, Maiden, custom of presenting laced gloves at, 337 n991

Asti, Baroness A. d', 79

Athens, white silk lace of, 86

Atterbury, Bishop, lace smuggled in coffin of, 361

Auberville, M. Dupont, exhibits by, 58; cited, 78

Aubry, Felix, quoted, 132 n376, 160 n466, 228 n614, 231, 257 n688; cited, 184, 285, 292

Audiganne, A., cited, 228 n614

Augsburg, 266, 267

Augusta, Princess, marriage of, 359

Aumale, Madame d', 183

Aurillac, 154, 246-250

Austria Albert Archduke, 113 n326 Anne of. _See_ Anne lace of, 268

Auto-da-fè, lace worn at, 100

Auvergne ancient names preserved in, 246 n658 lace exhibited (1867), 246 Maltese guipures made in, 88 mignonette made in (1665), 35 number of lace-makers in (1851), 257 n688 petition of lace-makers in (1767), 64 thread used in, 245

--------, Mgr. de la Tour d', 183

Auvray, quoted, 224 n611

Avaux, M. le Comte d', 155

Avrillion, Mlle., 177 n526; cited, 184 n541

Axmouth, lace-workers of, 409 n1157

Aylesbury, lace industry of, 378, 379

Baby lace, 385

Babylon, embroidery of, 3

Backhouse, James, 300

Bacon, Lord, 318

Baden, Princess of, 178

Bailey's Dictionary, quoted, 303 n830

Bailleul, 241 and n647, 257 n688

Baillie, James, 432

Baker, Robert, 437

Baldachino in Italian lace, 66

"Ballad of Hardyknute" quoted, 24

Bamberg, collection of German Point at, 267

Bampton, Mr., 343

Bands Falling. _See_ Falling Bands Lawyers', 337

Bannatyne, James, 422

Baptism ceremony, excess of lace at, 352 n1046

Barante, M. de, cited, 111

Barbara, Princess of Portugal (1729), 105

Barbes, 168 n496, 180 and n533

------ pleines, 234 and n627, n628

Barcelona, lace industry of, 91, 101 and n294, 103 n305 pillows used at, 103 n305 silk of, used in Maltese lace-making, 88; used for blondes, 103

Bard, William, 403

Barleycorn net, 448

Barry, Madame Du. _See_ du Barry

Bars, Genoese lace joined by, 74, 75 n236

Baseus, N., 470

Basing, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320

Basset, Anne, 290

------, Mary, 291

Bassompierre, 142

Bath and West of England Society, 410 and n1159

Bath Brussels lace, 405

Baucher, Canon, 226

Bauta, 57 and n193

Bavari, 55

Bavaria, Queen of, 421

Bavière, Isabeau de, 139 n393

Bay, Rudolf, 274

Bayeux, black lace of, 214, 226 Chantilly shawls made at, 215 lace industry, establishment of, 226; Lefébure's development of, 228; number of lace-makers engaged in, 228 n614 mignonette made at (1665), 35 n109 point d'Alençon of, 200 point de Marli of, 225 and n613 point de raccroc of, 120 Spanish silk laces contrasted with those of, 103 Tapestry, 6

Bayman, Mrs., 107

Bayonne, linen work of (1679), 79 n248

Beale, Mrs., thefts from, 349

Bearing cloths, 309 and n871

Beau Nash on aprons, 356

Beaucaire, fair at, 43 n136

Beaufort, Duchesse of, edicts ignored by, 142; extracts from inventory of, 143 and n413, n414, n415.

Beauharnais, Eugène, 123 n351

Beaumont and Fletcher, quoted, 292 n788, 296 and n805, 315 and n896, 324, 363 n1070, 365

Beauregard, 248 and n664

Becket, Thomas à, 202 and n569

Beckford, quoted, 90, 98 n280

Beckmann, quoted, 92 n267

Bedford, number of lace-makers in, 377

--------, Lady, 320

--------, Duke of, 360

--------, Lord, 348

Bedfordshire lace, 88, 375-377, 385

Beds, lace trimmings for, 27 n84, 98 and n280

Beer (Devon), lace-workers at, 409 and n1157, 416 n1169, 417 and n1171

Beggars' lace, 34

Béguinage, 126, 130, 133

"Bèle, Prerie," 144

Belev lace, 283

Belgium (See also Flanders and Brabant) lace industry (_See also_ Antwerp, Brussels etc.) application exported to France, annual value of, 252 centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 development of, 138 female education in, 112-113 guipures made by, 410 importance of, 112 and n324 numbers employed in (1861), 112 pillow lace. _See_ Valenciennes Valenciennes industry transferred to, 232 lace schools in, 113-115 linens and flax of, 405-407 pedlar lace-sellers in, 44 and n143 smuggling lace of, into France, 116 thread, fineness of, 119 n339 weaving of lace in fourteenth century in, 109

Bell, Mrs., old lace of, 384

Bellière, M. de la, 130 and n368

Bellini, lace in picture by, 47

Ben, Miss Mary, 398

Beni Hassan, figures at, 1

Beresford, Lord John George, 443

Berkeley, Bishop, quoted, 371 n1092

Berlin, number of lace fabrics in (_circ._ 1685), 264

Bernhardi, N. R., cited, 497 n1359

Berry lace industry, 256

Berthe (mother of Charlemagne), 5

Bertin, Mlle., 181

Bertini, Cav., 462 n1270

Bess of Hardwick, 11

Béziers, Bishop of, 154, 155

Bible printed by Quentell, 460

Bidney, Miss Jane, 409

Bigazzi, M., 468 n1293, 471 n1300

Billament lace, 48 and n159, 299 and n817

Binche, royal edict concerning, 135 and n381

------ lace, 118, 135 and n383, 136, 212

Bindoni, G. A., 471

Bingham, Lady, 439

Bisette (bizette), 33 and n102, 210, 256

Bishops, denouncement of ruffs by, 316-317; ruffs worn by, 318

Black lace Caen fabric, 225 Caen, Bayeux and Chantilly, similarity of fabrics of, 226 Calvados, 223 Chantilly fabric, 212-215 and n584, 226 East Flanders fabric, 134 England, imported to, from Low Countries, 117 n330; fashion introduced into, 153 n444; Lille fabric popular in, 237 fond d'Alençon, ground, 214 France, fashion introduced into, 153-154 Le Puy fabric, 245 Liège fabric, 137 n391 Lille fabric, 236, 237 loom-made, 432 n1212 masks of, 177 Saxony fabric, 263 Turin, at court of, 153 n445

Blanche of Lancaster, 285 n755

Blandford, lace industry of, 344, 396 and nn, 397 n1134

Blessington, Countess of, lace collection of, 369

Blois, Mlle. de, 161-162 and n472

Blonde de fil, 34 and n108, 237

Blonde-workers, wages of, 225

Blondes Almagro, at, 102 n297 Barcelona silk used for, 103 Caen, of, 224 Catalonian, 102 England, introduction of manufacture into, in George II.'s time, 356; made at Sherborne, 397 French court, at, 182 Genoese manufacture of, 75 Le Puy, of, 245 Spanish, 103 n305 Vélay, of, 244 white, 214

Bobbin lace (_See also_ Pillow lace) Belgian, 123 bobbins used for, 296 n798 pillow lace a term for, 32 point duchesse, 123 royal inventories, mentioned in, 295 n797 value of, per oz. (Queen Elizabeth's time), 295 n797

------ net English machine-made, 447-450 France, first made in, 187

Bobbins description of, 32, 33, 295 n795, 391 and n1127 Honiton, at, 415 n1166 long, used for bobbin lace, 296 n798 materials used for, 32, 74 n235 number of, 33 n101 Peniche, at, 106 n314

Bock, Dr., collection of, 23 and n74, 24

Boenen, G., 311

Bohemia, modern lace of, 262

Boileau, quoted, 159

Boislaunay, Epoux Malbiche de, 206

_Boke of Curtasye_, quoted, 290

Bolbec lace, 218

Bolingbroke, Lord, 351

Bologna, lace-making at, 68, 81 n248

Bonald, Cardinal de, 183

Bone, bobbins made of, 74 n235

---- lace bobbin lace distinguished from, 296 n798 explanation of term, 400

---- pins (_See also_ Bobbins), 295 n795

Bone-work, why so called, 294

Bonzy, Monseigneur de, 154-155

Books, parchment patterns on covers of, 77

Boot tops, 145, 150

Bordeaux fair, 43 n136

Borlase, Sir Henry, 378.

Bosse, Abraham, engravings by, 146, 147, 149

Bottles used as light reflectors, 390 and n1125

Boufflers, Governor, 236.

Bourbon, Catherine de, 144, 482, 494

--------, Duchesse de, extracts from the inventory of, 120 n344, 125 n354, 128 n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 169 n497, 174 n519, 195 n560

Bourg-Argental, 224

Bourges, 5, 256

--------, Archbishop of, 118 and n336

Bourgogne, Duc de, 99 n283

Bowdon, Miss, 417

Bowen, Emanuel, quoted, 405

Bowes, Sir Robert, 38, 298

Bowie, J., 430 n1207

Bowll, William, 308.

Boys as lace-makers, 263, 377, 413, 414

Brabant (_See also_ Belgium) lace-workers from, settled at Tönder, 274 point de Sedan, attributed to, 254

Brabant lace. _See_ Brussels, Mechlin, etc.

Braid, lace a term used for, 26

------ lace (Devonshire), 414 n1156

------ and cord lace, 446.

Braidwork, in imitation of Spanish point, 410 and n1159

Branscombe, lace-workers of, 409 n1138

Brazil, lace of, 108.

Brazza, Contessa di, cited, 71 n222, 75 n237, 78 n244; quoted, 75 n236; lace school under direction of, 81 n248

Bremen, refusal of, to receive strangers, 264

Brennar, Mr., 442 n1232

Brereton, Miss Elinor, 438

Bretagne, 229 and n617

Bretschneider, A., 496

Briattes, Jean-Ph., 225 n613

Bribes of lace, 351 n1045

Bridal veils, 78

Bride ground. _See_ Argentan ground.

------ lace, 302 and n829

Brides definition of, 31 and n91 Milanese lace, in, 75 n237 Spanish point, in, 58 thread guipures, in, 39, 40 _vrai réseau_ the successor of, 406

Bridgewater Baptist Church, manifesto of, 403 and n1144

"Britannia Languens" (1680), cited, 54 and n183, 192

Brittany, 229 and n617

Brithnoth, exploits of, in embroidery, 6

Broderie des Indes, 229

-------- de Malines. _See_ Mechlin lace

Brooks, Mr., speech of, quoted, 329.

Brotherton, Mr., invention of lace loom by, 432 n1212

Brown, Rawdon, cited, 345 n1025

Bruce, Mr. Collingwood, cited, 6

Bruges collection of lace at, 138 export trade with France, value of, 241 guipure de Flandres of, 123, 133 Valenciennes made at, character of, 232 n624

Brunet, H., cited, 161 n472, 236 n633, 459, 461, 476; quoted, 466

Brunfaut, M. Duhayon, 131 and n374

Brussels lace Alençon, 200 application, rivalry of Mirecourt, 252 arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 branches of industry, 123 Brussels the only place for, 118 colour of, 121 compared with-- Alençon, 199; Binche, 135; Lille, 237; point de France, 194; St. Trond, 137; Saxony needle point, 263 Cretan mesh work compared with, 87 designing of, 122 English Court fashion for, in George II.'s time, 354 exported as "English point," 117 flowers of, 121 grounds of, 120; Mechlin ground distinguished from, 125 Honiton imitations of, 405, 406, 410 made at Antwerp, 130; at Chimay, 135 manufacture described, 31, 118, 119; titles of workers of various processes in, 122 Marie Louise, Empress, presented with, 124 patterns of, 122; date of earliest patterns, 116 point de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre popular establishment for English buyers, 124 price per pound, 119 n339; causes of high price, 118, 119; comparative cost of ground, 120; price of flounce of, 124 n352 thread used in, 118 and n338; fineness of 119 n339 value of, from one pound of flax, 120; intrinsic value of, 124 n352 veil of, presented to Empress Josephine, 123 n351; smuggled, 361 Venetian wear of, 57 and n192

-------- -lace-makers, point de raccroc of, 120

-------- net, 120 n345

Bruyel, Nicholas de, 111

Buckingham, Duchess of, 345 n1024

Buckinghamshire lace, 378-383; value of, 402

Buffon, ruffles of, 173

Bulgarini, Francesea, 68 and n213

Bullock, Consul, quoted, 89

Bunt lace, 428

Buoy, lace seized in, 360 n1066

Burano Alençon point made at, 62, 200 Argentan made at, 62, 208 English thread used at, 394 n1128 number of lace-workers at, 394 n1128 revival of lace industry at, 58-62

Burato, 53

Burgoigne, 205 n573, 216 n594

Burgundy, lace industry of, 255 and n684, n685; lace-makers from, in London, 373

--------, Duke of (Charles the Bold), 111

--------, Dukes of, inventory of, quoted, 82

--------, Duchess of, 167 n492

Burke, Patrick, 323

Burnet, Bishop, quoted, 13

Burnham (Buckinghamshire), lace industry of, 379

Burning of badly-spun yarn, 432 and n1211

Butterfly and acorn design, 308, 408

Byas, 299 and n815

Byzantine Empire, origin of lace traced to, 45

Cabanillas, cited, 102

Cadenetas, 95

Calderwood, Mrs., cited, 127, 431; quoted, 118 and n337, 137, 260; Dresden ruffles of, 262

Caen black lace of, 226 blonde lace of, patterns, 224; quality, 224; rise and fall of industry, 225 Chantilly industry outrivalled by, 215; Chantilly made at, 224 number of lace-makers employed in (1847), 225; (after 1848), 228 n614 price of lace of, 224

Cahanet, 226

Calais, machine-made blondes of, 225

Calepino, T., 474

Callot, engravings of, 146

Calthorpe, Lady, 37, 297

Calvados lace industry, 213, 223, 226, 228 and n614, 257 n688

Cambray, Archbishop of, 173 and n508

Cambrensis, Giraldus, cited, 435

Cambury, Lord, 403

Campan, Mme. de, 180 n533

Campane, 34 and n104, n106, 51

Campanner, 343 n1017

Campany, cited, 99

Campos, Father Fr. Marcos Antonio de, quoted, 95

Candy, thread lace from, 38

Canetille, 36

"Canons," 153 and n441

Canossa, Contessa, 469

Cant, Miss Anne, 430 n1207

Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making, cited, 2 n7

Cantu, lace-making at, 66, 80

Capefigue, quoted, 166

Card-sharping aided by ruffles, 171, 351

Cardinals, 356 and n1059

Cardwell, Mr., 384

Carew, Sir G., 308 n870

Carpaccio, lace in pictures of, 47

Carpentier, Madame, 226

Carrêno, lace rare in paintings of, 98

Carrickmacross, lace industry at, 440

Carrouges, 206

Cartisan, 36

Cary, John, quoted, 849 n1325

Castanaga, M. de, 167

Castlebar, lace industry at, 439

Catalonia, blonde made at, 101; blonde mantillas of, 88, 226

Catgut lace, 343, 430 n1207

Catherine de Bourbon, 144, 482, 494

---------- of Braganza, 43 n137

---------- de Médecis, bed of, 22 bizette of, 33 n102 Florentine lace probably introduced into France by, 67 lace-making at court of, 140 and n395 needlework of, 11 Vinciolo patronised by, 11, 17

Cattern's Day, 376

Cauellat, Veuve, 476

Cavenne, Citoyen, 137 n390

Cayette, V. P., cited, 140 n397

Cecil, letter from, regarding French tailors, quoted, 307

Cecyll, Richard, 291

Celle, D., 466

Cephalonia, Ionian lace at, 86

Cerceau, A. du, 476

Ceylon, pillow-laces of, 88

Challus, Anne, 184 n540

Chambrières, 8

Champagne, lace industry of, 253-255

Chandos, infant daughter of Duke of, 352 n1046

--------, Lady, 294 n791, 297 n811, 307 n862, 308 n867

Channel Islands, lace industry in, 372 n1098

Channon, Miss Mary, 398

"Chansons a toile", 8 and n29

Chantilly number of lace-workers at Alençon and, (1851), 257 n688 point tresse made at, 314

---------- lace black, 226 Caen manufacture of, 224 Genoese imitation of, 75 industry of, 212-215 Saxony lace compared with, 263 Spanish silk laces contrasted with, 103 Spanish and Portuguese imitation of, 106

Charles I. (England) Carisbrook clothing expenses of, 372 n1097 carpet bag trimmings of, 38, 298 extravagance of, 326, 327 and n950, 328 Great Wardrobe Account, quoted, 253 and n678, n679, 205 n612 marriage accounts, 296 period of, 326-332 picture catalogue of, cited, 296

-------- II. (England) Collobium sindonis of, 335 and n981 Flanders lace, importation of, prohibited by, 125 foreign lace imported by, 336 and n985 period of, 335-339 silver parchment lace of, 38, 298 and n841

--------, Prince (England), accounts of, cited, 322, 325 n940, n941

-------- V. (Belgium) cap of, 113 lace-making encouraged by, 113 portrait of, in Quentell's pattern book, 459

-------- VIII. (France), 139 n393

-------- IX. (Sweden), 279

-------- X., 143 n412

-------- the Bold, 111

Charleville lace, 183 n539, 254 and n680

Charlotte, Queen Armada pattern lace of, 397 British lace worn by, 363, 398 favourite lace of, 128 lace industry started by, 374 sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046

Charmouth, lace-workers at, 395

Charollais, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n353, 129 n364, 162 n475, 175 n520, 135 ruffles of, 233 n626

Chat, 181 and n536

Château de Madrid, lace factory at, 158, 210 and n584

-------- -Renaud lace, 254

-------- -Thierry, lace industry at, 157 n459, 253

Châtel-sur-Moselle, 251 and n671

Châtelain, Simon, 100 and n287

----------, Zacharie, 259

Chaucer, quoted, 15 and n50

Chaumont, 251 n673

Chauvin, Pierre, 230

Cheney, lace industry at, 384

Chesterfield, Lord, quoted, 358

Cheveux de la reine, 181 and n535

Chevreuse, Madame de, 168

Cheyne lace, 438

Chiavari _Macramé_ of, 79 tape guipure of, 75

Chicago Exhibition. _See under_ Exhibitions

Chichester, Lady Hamilton, 87 and n262

Chick, Mrs., 407 n1153

Chigi-Giovanelli, Princess, 61

Children as lace-makers, 103 n305, 107, 155, 209, 377, 438

Chili lace, 108

Chimay lace, 134-135

China drawn work of, 46 silk lace not in demand in, 89

------, lace exchanged for, 349

Choïsy, Abbé de, 167

Christening shirts of Queen Elizabeth's reign, 308 and n872

Christian IV. of Denmark, 68, 272-274

Christina, Queen, 73 n230

Church of England appointment of parsons of, for reform of lace-making abuses, 331 inventories of, lace mentioned in, 293 ruffs worn by Bishops, 318; sermons against ruffs, 316

------ of France, extravagance of prelates (Louis XVI.), 182-183

Churchill, Lord, 403

Cibber, Colley, cited, 344 n1021

Cicognara, Count, 467 and n1286

Ciglia family, Maltese lace made by, 88

Cinq Mars, boots and collarette of, 145

Ciprioto, 82 n252

Cistercians, 7

"City Match," quoted, 324

Clarke, Jane, 443 n1233

Claver, Alice, 288

Clayton, Sir Thomas, accounts of, quoted, 350

Clement VII., Pope, 62

-------- IX., Pope, 70

-------- X., Pope, 172 n505

Clément, M., 226

Clermont, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted 128 n363, 195 n560, 207 n578

Clonard Abbey, effigy in, 437 n1222

Clones, lace and crochet industry of, 445

Cluny, Musée de, punto a relievo in, 51

------ lace Le Puy Fabric, 246 n659 Mirecourt fabric, 252

Coccolia, lace school at, 81 n249

Cochon, cited, 256 n686

Cock (fontange), 423

----, Hieronymus, 493 n1354

Cockscombes, 344

Code Michaud, 148

Coggeshall (Essex), lace made at, 441 n1230

Coigny, Duchesse de, 123 n351

"Col rabattu," 145

Colbert, Chevalier Aurillac lace of, 248 chief director of trade, 158 n461 death of, 192 development of lace industry by, 154; extract from letter to M. le Comte d'Avaux, 155 difficulties in establishing lace factories, 158 and n461, n462 fabrics attempted by, 255, 256 fabrics established by, at Arras, 239 and n644 Aurillac, 247 Château de Madrid, 158, 210 n584 Le Quesnoy, 230 Loudun, 256 Huguenots protected by, 100 inventory of, quoted, 218 n596, 259 n692 Mazarin, correspondence with, concerning lace, referred to, 150-151 ordinance of, 54 point d'Alençon established by, 188 points de France, established by, 33, 111 Raffy, Madame, letter from, quoted, 202

Colbertine, 337, 339 and n996, n997, n998

Colchester, complaints of, regarding foreign lace-makers, 324 n935

Cole, A. S. cited, 91-92 and n268, 446 n1236; quoted, 193 n555, 203 n570 Kinsale lace revival due to, 442 and n1232

Collaert, engraving by, 109 n319

Collars, hunting, 328

Collectors of lace, 364

Cologne pattern book, 268

Colombière, Vulson de la, quoted, 73, 149 and n435

Colporteurs, lace sold by, 44 and n142, n143

Colyton military thieves at, 403 tomb in church of, 403 n1145

Commode. _See_ Fontange

Commonwealth, the, needlework in the time of, 13

Compas lace, 297 and n809

Compton, Lord, cited, 296 n800

Conclave, the holy, laces of, 70

Condé, Princesse de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n355, 161 n468, 168 n496, 169 n497, 174 n519, n520, 195 n558

Congreve, cited, 344 n1021; quoted, 339

Contarini, Lucretia, 476, 484

Conti, Prince de, marriage-toilette of, 161-162 and n472 point d'Aurillac cloak of, 248

Contrada del Pizzo, 59

Connet, lace trade at, 270.

Cooke, quoted, 414

Copper lace (St. Martin's), 331 n965

Coral point, 51

Coralline, Point de Venise copied from, 49-50

Cordonnet, 87, 406, 408

Corfu, Greek lace made at, 85

Cork, crochet industry of, 444, 445

"Corona" of Vecellio. _See_ Vecellio

Cotgrave, quoted, 33 n102, 36 n112

Cotton lace, 187

------ weaving, at Ghent, 134

Couronne (picot), 31 and n92

Courtrai, flax grown at, 118 n338

-------- lace. _See under_ Valenciennes lace

Cousin, Jean, 476

Couvin lace, 138 n392

Covenanters, sumptuary enactments of, 424

Coventry blue, 302

Cow-houses, lace worked in lofts over, 224

Cowper, quoted, 364, 370, 379

Coxcombs, 31

Cranfield, Sir Lyonell, cited, 324 n934

Crâponne fabric, 246

Cravat, laced introduction of, 337 origin of, 42 n135 stock the successor of, 345

Creaden, the Queen of, 437 n1223

Créquy, M. de, 143

------, Madame de, quoted, 175

------, Marquise de, quoted, 173 n511, 250 and n668

Crete, lace manufacture of, 86-87

Crochet, Irish, 444-445

-------- hook used in Genoese guipures, etc., 74

-------- needle, used in Punto di Rapallo, 75 n237

Cromwell, Oliver, dress of, 333, 334

Crown lace, 299 and n814

Croïy, Duc de, 366 n1083

Crusaders, art of lace-making, traced to, 45 n148

Cuença, 246

Cuipure (guipure), 37

Culpepper, Sir John, quoted, 318-319

Cunningham, quoted, 308 n866

Curragh point, 443 and n1233

Curtius, M., 143 and n412

"Custom of the Country" quoted, 324

Cut-work ecclesiastical use of, 15 Elizabeth's use of, 303-305 Italian, 325 James I.'s time, 322, 325 lace known as, 2 name explained, 19 pall of, used in Dieppe, 25 Ricci's "Last Supper" depicted in, 79 n248 smocks adorned with, 25 toile d'honneur of, use at St. Lo, 25

Cyprus, needlework of, 82

d'Abranthès, Duchesse, 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638

d'Addo, Marquis, 459 n1264, 467 n1287, n1288, 469 n1294, 470, 472, 475, 476 and n1315, 477

Daedalian ruffs, 315 and n895

Daimeries, Mme., quoted, 138 n392

Dalecarlian lace, 68, 281, 282, 338

Dalrymple, Miss Jenny, 263

Dalton, Mother Augustine, 444

Damer, Mr., 364

Dammartin lace, 212

Dangean, quoted, 167, 178

Dantelle (dentelle), first occurrence of word, 490

d'Aranda, Madame, 98 n280

Darned netting, 20, 21

Dartmouth, Lord, 379

Dauphin, ceremony at birth of, 162 n474

Davies, Barber Surgeon, quoted, 70

Davies' _Epigrams_ quoted, 323 n933

Davey, Mrs., 409

Dawson, Mrs., 446 n1235

de la Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357

de Lonlay, Eugène, cited, 208

de Staël, Madame, 180

Deaf and dumb, net lace used by, in Sardinia, 81 n248

Debts for lace, 353 and n1050.

Decker, T., quoted, 315 n895

Defoe, quoted, 43 n140, 171 n503, 377 and n1111, 378, 379, 380 and n1119, 396, 397, 403; cited, 344

Delaney, Mrs., quoted, 120 n344, 121, 355; cited, 413 n1161

Denbert, Bishop of Durham, 6

Denmark cut-work of, 276, 277 embroidered tulle of, 229 grave-clothes, lace adorned in, 275, 366 and n1082 lace industry. (_See also_ Schleswig and Tönder) export trade, 274 n736 lace postmen, 274, 277 origin of, 272 protected by Christian IV., 274 quality of lace, 275 Wulff's revival of, 276 and n739

Dennistoun, Mrs., 58-59, 487

Denny, Lady Arabella, 437, 438 and n1225, 439 and n1227

Dentelière, work of, 122

Dentelle, definition of term, 27 and n80

-------- à la Reine, 259 and n692

-------- à la Vierge, 220

"Dépit Amoureux" quoted, 32

Derby Alice, Countess of, effigy of, 321 n927

------, Lady, 342

------ rib, 448 n1239

Derbyshire, pillow lace made in, 393

Derode, V., quoted, 236 n630, n633

Desborough, lace industry of, 379

Desmarquets, cited, 219 n603

Desmond, Countess of, 437 n1222

Desnos, Joseph Odolant, quoted, on establishment of point d'Alençon, 155 n455

------, Odolent, quoted, on invention and establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157

Despierres, Mme., quoted, 157 n457, n458, 159 n464, 195 n557, 204 n571, 307; cited, 192 n552, 203

d'Este, Madame Anne Bellorio, 61 family, auctions of, cited, 46

Devonshire bone pins used in, 294 lace of. _See_ Honiton, Trolly villages in, noted for lace-making in 1698, 403 n1143; those now engaged in, 403 n1147

----------, Duke of, coffin of, searched for lace, 360

----------, Duke of, Jacobite lace brought to, 426

Diamond lace, 299-300 and n818

"Diarium Vadstenoense" 278

Didot, F., 487

Dieppe cut-work, pall used in, 25 lace industry of, 218-220, 223

------ lace, 183 n539

Dieudonné-- quoted, 225 n613, 231; cited 237 n639

Dijon, Valenciennes made at, 255

Dike, Ric. 319 n918

Dinant muslin-work, 138 n392

Dinghen, Madame, 311

Doddridge, Lady, effigy of, 405

Doge's horn in Italian laces, 66

Dogs as lace-smugglers, 116 and n329

Dolls dressed in French fashions, 170 and n500, n501

"Don Quixote," cited, 98 n281

Donat, Père, 501

Donchéry lace, 254

Doran, Dr., anecdote related by, 186

Dorsetshire lace, 396-398; value of, 402

Dorstats, Madame Catherine von, 497

Douairière de la Ferté, Duchesse, 175-176

Double ground, 386

Douce, Mrs., cited, 500 n1366

Douglas, Bp., letters of, quoted, 265 and n720

Dover, refugee lace-makers at, 324 n935

"Down," 390

Draper, Mrs., 13

Drawn-work, method of, 25 Sicilian, 81 South American, 188 wire, 72

Dresden lace, 262, 263, 430 and n1207

Drocheleuse, work of, 122

Droschel, 119

Drouais, 168

Dryden, quoted, 425

Du Barry, Madame accounts of, quoted, 34 n106, 120 and n341, n343, n344, 126 n356, 129 n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 175 n520, 178 n529, 181 n534, 195, 207 and n577, 231 and n621, n622, 233 n625, n626 Indian muslin bought by, 179 inventories of, quoted, 213 n592, 250 n666, n667

Du Haillan, 142 n408

Dublin Society, The, 429, 437-439

Dubois, C., cited, 137 n389, 138 n392

------, 468

Duchesse lace, 123

Dulaure, cited, 173 and n513

Dumont, manufactory of, 211

------, Mlle., 105 n312

Dunbar, Mrs., 443

Dunkirk, James II.'s cap in Museum at, 340 and n1004

Duponchel (Du Ponchel), 205, 207 n576

Dupont, M., cited, 204

Duras, Duc de, 207 n577

------, Duchesse de, 213 and n591

Duref Henri, cited, 247

Durham, St. Cuthbert's cope and maniple at, 7; his grave-clothes, 14, 15, 366

Durie, Lord, engraving of, 423

Dussen, B. v. d., cited, 133 and n378

Duthie, Mlle., 181

Duval, M., 224

Dysart, Countess of, 344 n991

"Each," 391

_Eagle_ (French vessel), seizure of, 101

Earnings and wages of lace-workers Alençon, 192 Arras (1788), 239; (1851), 240 Bedfordshire, 377 blonde-workers, 225 Denmark (1848), 277 n741 Devonshire, 414, 416 n1168; Honiton, 407 and n1153 Dorsetshire, 398 Flemish thread-spinners', 119 France, average (1851), 257 n688; their savings, 159 n464 Genoa, 77, 78 Mechlin, 127 Mirecourt, 252 n675, 253 Normandy, 223, 228 n614 Northamptonshire (Spratton), 390 Scotland, 434 Spain, 102 Switzerland, 270 Val, 233, 234 n627 Vélay, 244 Ypres Valenciennes, 131 n373

Eaton, John, 336

------, Prestwick, letters from, cited, 98 n282

Ecclesiastical lace Athenian--for Jewish Church, 86 Burano school allowed to copy, 62 decline of, since the Reformation, 331 Greek, 83 Ionian, 86 Italian, 47 and n154 Katherine of Aragon's work of, 376 and n1108 Maltese, 88 Scotch, 418, 419 Spanish, 90, 92 washing of, 373 n1101

Ecouen lace, 210 n589

Eden, Mrs., 443

Edgithe, Queen, 6

Edict of Nantes, Revocation of effect on lace industry (France and other countries), 192, 212, 254, 258 settlement of fugitives in Germany, 264-265

Edinburgh Society for Encouraging the Arts and Manufactures of Scotland, 262, 263, 429, 430 and nn

Edward the Elder, daughters of, 6

Edward III. pins for his daughter's trousseau, 294 n794 thread veils of time of, 285.

Edward IV. Irish smock of, 436 wardrobe accounts of, quoted, 288

Edward VI., funeral lace of, 293

Effingham, Dowager Lady, 349

----------, Earl of, 364

Egenolffs, C., 470

Egyptians (Ancient), embroidery of, 1

Ekenmark, cited, 280 n748

Elberfeld, 265

Eleanor of Austria, 262 n701

Elgin marbles, designs in, 3

Elizabeth, Princess (wife of Elector Palatine), 71, 325

---------- of Austria (Elisabetta Borbona d'Austria), 495

---------- of Bohemia, 294 n794

---------- of Denmark, 272

----------, Queen anecdote referring to, 38, 297 cost of lace for revels at court of, 308 n871 cut-work of, 303-305 false hair of, 314 and n894, n895 foreign tastes of, 305, 307, 310 Irish at court of, 435 laces of, 299-300; lace made from human hair, 313; Genoa and Spanish lace, 307; parchment lace, 298; cost of lace furnished to, 308 New Year's gifts to, 294 n791, 295, 303 n833, 304 n834, n835, n836, n837, 307 and n862, 308 n867, n870, 310 n875, n876 old clothes of, presented to Anne of Denmark, 320 presents to, from Mary Stuart, 420 and n1184; from the Baroness Aletti, 421 n1187 ruffs of, 310-313; 316 n901 skill of, in needlework, 500 smock made by, 10 and n32; smocks of, 308, 408 stocking-frame inventor discouraged by, 448 n1240 wardrobe accounts of, cited, 72; quoted, 92, 98 n282, 297 and n811, 299 and n814, n815, n816, n817, 300-301 and n820, n821, n824, n826, 302 and n827, 304 n834, n838, 307 and n861, n865, 309 n873, 311 n880, 312 n882, 314 n895, 372 n1098

----------, reign of christening shirts and bearing cloths of, 308-309 habits of people in, 310 n877 importation of pins (annual) in, 294 n794 lace, use of, in, 300 laced handkerchiefs of, 310 and n874 measures against luxury of the people, 301 sumptuary laws, 306 and n855 value of lace and thread imported (1559 and 1568), 306 and n859 Venice lace of, 48 and n154

---------- of York, Queen, 9 n30, 48, 289

Elliott, Julian, 328

Embroider, Italian and Spanish term for, 45 and n147

Embroidery Anglo-Saxon, 5-7 Babylonian, Sidonian and Phrygian, 3 and n13 drawn-thread work, 25 ecclesiastical, 4-7. Egyptian, 1 Greek, 2, 3 and n8 Jewish, 2 Spanish, 103

Embroidered lace, Genoese, 77

Engageantes, 168

Enghien lace, 134

"Engines" for lace-making, 324 n935

England (_for_ counties, towns, etc., _see their titles_) French fashions, method of obtaining, 170 frugality of nation, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, 310 n877 lace in account of (_See also_ names of sovereigns), 285 _et seq._ date of establishment of industry, 286-288; origin of, 111; centres of, before 1665, 44 n144; impossibility of competing with Belgium, 138 earliest mention of, 285 Flanders, trade with (1768), 115; Flemish lace. _See_ that title foreign, prohibited, 125, 289-290, 341, 347; imported, 245, 251, 288, 291 smuggling of. _See that title_ Protestant refugees in, trades of, 297-298 Reformation, decline of ecclesiastical lace since, 331 sumptuary laws. _See that title_ Vinciolo published in, 482

Engrêlure, 31, 168 n496

Entoilage, 30, 250

Épinal, 251

Equipage de bain, 168

Eric XIV. (Sweden), 307

Ericksholm, 280

---------- Castle, 279

Erikson, Gustaf, 280

Erzgebirge lace, 263

Essex, Earl of, 401

Este, Madame Anne Belloris, d', 61

---- family, archives of, cited, 46

Etrepagny lace, 213 n589

Eu lace, 183 n539, 218, 221-222

Eugénie, Empress, 198

Evans, Mrs., 308 n869

Evelyn, quoted, 13, 43, 168 n496, 338, 339; cited, 57

Exeter, Bishop of, 316

------, Elizabeth, Duchess of, 285 n755

Exhibitions Chicago World's Fair Honiton lace at, 416 n1169 Italian lace at, 46 n150 Colonial and Indian Exhibition (1886), Cyprian lace at, 82 Industry, 1808, point d'Argentan at, 208 (1851), Alençon flounce at, 197-198; lace industry developed since, 392 (1855) (Paris) Alençon point dress at, 198 equipage of King of Rome at, 196 needle-point dress at, 245 (1859) (French). Report--cost of Brussels lace, 119 n339 (1862) (International) Spanish exhibits at, 103-104 threads, comparative fineness of, 119 n339 Wadstena lace at, 280 1867 (Paris) Alençon point dress at, 200 Burano laces at, 58 Honiton lace at, 410 macramé shown at, 79 Mechlin lace at, 125 oyah at, 87 point gaze at, 123 Valenciennes lace at, 131 and n373 1874 (International) Austrian lace at, 268 Brussels lappet at, 411 Russian towels at, 283 Valenciennes lace at, 131 1889, point d' Alençon at, 201 1900 (Paris), 268

Eyesight, effect of lace-making on, 112 n324

Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 333

Fairs, 43 and n136, n137, n140, 326 n945

Falbala, 167 and n492

Falcon, T., 246

Fallals, 350 and n1043

Falling bands, 321 n928, 322, 326, 327, 334, 336

Fambri, Signor, 61

"Fameuse poupée," 170

Fanciulle, 462

Fanshaw, Lady, quoted, 333

Farbeck, John, 300

Favier-Duboulay, correspondence of, with Colbert, re lace industry at Alençon, 155 and n454, 189

Feather-stitch, 8

Fécamp lace, 218

Félibien, D. M., quoted, 141 n402

Félice, G. de, quoted, 150 n437

Félin Narciso, quoted, 91, 99

Felkin, Mr., cited, 447

Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 92, 93, 96

Feret quoted, 219 and n604

Ferguson, Mr., cited, 250 and n665

Fernandez, Don Manuel, 102

Ferrara archives of, quoted, 46 and n150 Venetian lace-worker at, 78 n243

Fielding quoted, 354 n1053

Filet brodé à reprises, 20

Fillesae, Marie, 157 n458

Fillings, 31

Filo di freta (_See also_ Aloe thread), 79 n245

Firenzuola cited, 46 n152, 47, 57 n172; quoted, 66 and n207

Fisher, Bishop, 292

Fitz-Geoffrey (Geffery), Henry, quoted, 317 n908, 332

Flanders emigration of lace-makers from, preventive legislation, 111-112; emigrants in London, 373; in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire, 375 and n1105; in Devonshire, 399 and nn, 400 n1140; expelled from England (1572), 306 lace. _See_ Flemish lace. lace school in, description of, 114-115 Spanish imports of dentelles d'Angleterre from, 98 thread imported from, complaint regarding, 324 n935 water-glass reflectors used in, 390 n1125

--------, East, lace of, 133-134

--------, West lace workers of, 133 and n378 Valenciennes lace of. _See_ Valenciennes Flax age of, 259 n697 cotton substituted for, 187 spinning of, in damp cellars, 405

Fleming, Lady, 10

Flemish lace. (_See also_ Belgium _and_ Brabant) arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 Barcelona lace imitated from, 91, 99 black lace exported, 117 n330 cargo of smuggling vessel (1678), 117 coffin containing, 61 Danish imitation of, 275 England bribes for Jacobites in, 351 n1045 exportation to, prohibited, 125, 341 fashionable in, 318, 325, 327, 340 imitations in, 384, 404; Honiton reproductions, 411, 416 trade with (1768), 115 France, popularity in (Louis XIV.), 150; trade (seventeenth century), annual value of, in passemens, 209 n583; prohibited, 142 importance of industry of, 111 Liège, 136-137 "Malines," a term for, 125 origin of, 109 types of, 115-116 white work, 294 and n791

Flemish names in Colyton (Devon), 403 n1145

Fleurens, 270

Fleury, Cardinal, quoted, 176

Florence gold lace from, Spanish exclusion of, 92 Greek lace made at, 85 industrial schools in, lace work of, 81 n248 lace industry of, account of, 66-68; "fine dantelle de," 27 Le Puy, imports from, 245 n657

Florentine merchants, allowed to trade in England (circ. 1546), 291

Florini, M., 488

_Flying Postman_ advertisement in, 129

"Flys," 416 n1170

Foillet, J., 489, 490

Fonneuse, work of, 122

Fontange (Commode) "cock" the Scotch term for, 423 description of, 168 n486, 342, 350 n1043 extinction of mode, 166, 348 and n1035 story of, 164

Fontana, Lavinia, lace in picture by, 47 n153

Fontenay, lace, 212 n589

Fontenelle le Liqueur, 229 and n615

Fonthill, sale of lace at, 162 n475

Foote, quoted, 171 n503

Footing, 31, 168 n496

Forbes, Miss Betsey, 432 n1209

Forçade, M. de la, cited, 340 n1004

Force, P. de la, cited, 254 and n682

Foresto, I., 471

Fortunato, P. A., 500

Foskewe, Sir John, 22

_Four P's, The_, cited, 43 n139

Fournier, quoted, 209 n583

"Fourpenny Spot," 372 n1095

Fowke, Mr., cited, 6 and n23

Fowler, Mrs., lace school of, 416 and n1169

Fozzi, P. P., 491

France. _For_ districts, towns, etc., _see their titles_ bobbin net introduced into, 187 customs of French ladies, 168-170 états Généraux (1789), action of, regarding lace, 183 extravagant cost of lace ornaments (Louis XIV.), 153 Fairs in, 43 n136 Fashions fashion dolls, 170 and n500, n501 Italian influence on, 139 and n393 Louis XIV., under, 167 first appearance of lace in, 139 n393 First Empire Brussels lace at court of, 123 lace industry under, 184 morning costume under, 185 point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 Florentine lace used in (1545), 67 imports of lace from, to England, forbidden by Queen Anne, 347 Italian guipures exported to, 75 Italy, relations with (16th century), 476 lace industry in. _See_ French lace industry lace-makers from, brought to teach Scotch girls, 428 ladies, addiction of, to needlework, 9, 24; as lace-makers, 163 men as embroiderers in, 13 point d'Espagne consumed in, 90; made in, 100 points de Venise from, 54 Quintain named from Brittany town, 19 lace industry improved by, 383 refugees from, to Channel Islands, 372 n1098; to England, 324 n935 Revolution in, effect of, on lace trade, 183 and n539, 223, 249, 368, 408 Second Empire, point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 Spanish imports of lace from, 101 sumptuary laws in, 138 and n354, n355, 147 and n429, 149, 154 and n451 tariff (1664), Liège lace mentioned in, 137 war with, effect of, on English lace industry, 386, 387 yellow starch, attitude towards, 318 and n909

France and Navarre, Queen of, pattern book dedicated to, 493

Franceschi, Francesco di, 475, 484

Francis I. Aurillac lace of, 247 pattern book dedicated to, 461

Frankfort-on-the-Maine fair at, 43 n136, 326 n945 pattern book published at, 267

Frano, G., 477

Frederick, Prince of Wales, 354

---------- IV., 274

---------- William of Brandenburg, 264

French lace industry centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 cheap lace, 187 and n546 Colbert's development establishment and history of the company (1668-1675), 157-158 establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157 immigration of Venetian workers, 159 n465 principal centres, 159 n464 pupils sent to Venice, 154-155 and n454 First Empire, under, 184 foreign trade Bruges, annual value of, with, 241; with Flanders, 209 n583; Valenciennes trade with Belgium, 132 n376 Germany, with, 265 prohibition of, with Flanders, 142 rivalry of Holland in, 258 smuggling from Belgium, 116; from Switzerland, 270 statistics regarding (18th century), 160 n466 number of lace-makers in (present day), 188; table of (1851), 257 n688 Paris lace-workers, confirmation of statutes of, 150 n437 pattern books, 144 and n420, n421, n422, n423 patterns imitated in Denmark, 275 pillow lace manufacture, extension of (17th century), 159 point d'Espagne, 100 Protestants prohibited from selling lace, 150 n437 varieties of lace made in (1665), 33-35 width of lace restricted, 152-153

Freyburg, 268

Freytag, G., quoted, 265 n718

Friesland hens, ladies likened to, 342

Frondeurs, extravagance of, 150

Froschover, Christopher, pattern book of, 271

Fugio lace, 74

Fuller, quoted, 378, 401

Furnesse, Sir Henry, 344, 347

Fuseaux, dentelle à, 32 n98

Gabrielle de Bourbon, 8 n28

----------, Madame, 49, 142, 143 and n413, n414, n415

Gaguef lace, 281

_Gan, Le_, quoted, 24

Gantes, Mlles., 250

Garden, Lord, quoted, 119

Garnica, John de, 113 n325

Garnier, Joseph, cited, 255 n685

Garnitures de lit, 174 and n519, n520

Garters Queen Elizabeth's cost per pair, 301 trimmed with point, 145

Gaston, Duke of Orleans, 8 n27

Gaudronnées collerettes, 17

Geneva, rivalry of, with Mirecourt, 252

Genoa Albergo de' Poveri, macramé made at, 79 collars of, 74 earnings of lace-workers, 77, 78 embroidered lace of, 77; embroidered tulle, 229 gold work of, 47, 72 guipures of, 74 lace of Cardinal Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 Honiton reproduction of, 411 point de Gênes, 41, 42, 72, 73 and n230, 74 Queen Elizabeth's, 307 and n865 lace trade in, chiefly pillow, 47, 74; decline of, 74 silk work of, 72 sumptuary laws in, 73 Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225

Genoa, Duchess of, 78 n244

Gentili family, bridal veil made for, 78

Geometrical patterns cuffs of (Queen Mary's), 113 Cretan, 86 Greek lace, 20, 85 ruffs of, 316 Swedish, 25 Vecellio's, 111 Vinciolo's, 18

George I. Mechlin cravat of, 126 and n361 period of, 351-353 wardrobe account of, 240 and n645

------ II., period of, 354-357

------ III. English manufactures protected by, 359, 363 and n1068, 381 period of, 363-370 sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046

------ IV., wardrobe of, 364 n1073

Geharts, C., 501

Germany fairs in, 43 n136, n140 guipures imported into, 36 lace imported into, 245, 251, 254 lace industry centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 export trade with France, 265 North and South Edict of Nantes Revocation--emigration of fugitives into, 264-265 religion of lace-workers, 264 sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, 264 Nuremberg (_See that title_) origin of, 111 pattern-books, 266-268 Saxony (_see that title_) luxury, outbreak of, 265-266

Geslin, Simon, 193

_Gespeldewerkte kant_, 32 n98

Ghent lace Brussels lace compared with, 118 manufacture of, 133-134 trade replaced by cotton-weaving, 134 Valenciennes made at Ghent, character of, 231 n624

Ghisolieri, La Signora Silveria Rossi, 484

Gibbons, Grinling, lace carvings of, 367 and n1088

Gibson, Sir Alexander, engraving of, 423

------, Miss Mary, 438

Gigliucci, Countess, fragment of drawn work possessed by, 69

Gilbert, Madame, 155 and n455, 156, 157 and n458

Gimp Brussels lace, in, 406 method of making, 33 silk, at Ragusa, 84

Gioiello, 486

Giraldini, Catherina, 500

Gisors lace industry, 209, 213 n589, 215

Glairo, Mlle. U., 235

Glandore, Lord, 436

Glen, Jean de, 136, 482, 488 and n1338

----, Miss, 431 n1209

Gloucester, Duchess of, lace collection of, 369

Gloves, laced, 337 and n991

Goats' hair lace, 245

Godard, Jean, quoted, 24, 146 n425

Goderonné, term explained, 17 n57

Godric, 6

Gohory, Anne, 183 n540

Golbertain (Colbertine), 339 n996

Golconda, King of, 322 n928, 329 and n958

Gold lace (_See also_ Aurillac lace) Arras, of, 240 England, imported to fifteenth-sixteenth centuries, 288, 289, 307 monopoly in, under James I., 318 prohibited, by Queen Anne, 349; by George II., 355 n1057; confiscation and burning of, 359 France, popularity in, 139, 141, 146, 154; of Paris, 211-212 Genoa, wearing prohibited in, 73 Hamburg, of, 264 Holland, introduction into, 259 India, imported into, 322 n928, 329 and n958 Ireland, importation to, prohibited, 439 Jewish manufacture of, 92 Lyons, of, 256 Ragusa, at, 84 Russia, of, 283 Scotland, wearing in, prohibited, 422 Sicily, of, 80 Spain, of, 92, 100-102, 248 Sweden, of, 280 Zurich, of, 271

---- guipure work, Swedish, 277-278

---- purles, 330

---- thread duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328 Italian (fourteenth century), 72

---- wire, protest by handspinners of, 335

Golden Horn, 273

Goldoni, cited, 57 n192

Goldsmith, quoted, 70 n218

Gomberdière, Marquis de la, quoted, 209 and n582

Gonzales, Don Manuel, cited, 380 and n1120, 403 n1146

Gooding, James, 413, 414

Gorget (whisk), 334

Gormont, 464

Goudronné, term explained, 17 n57

Gozo, Maltese lace made at, 88

Grafton, Duchess of, 344 n1021, 349 n1037

Gramite, 46 n150

Grammont lace, 134

Granada, lace alb in cathedral of, 92, 93

Granson, battle of, 111

Grave-clothes Duke of Alva's, 366 n1085 Ionian lace sold from, 86 lace decorations of, 365-367 St. Cuthbert's, 14, 15, 366

Gravelle, attempt to establish fabric by, 207

Great Marlow bone lace trade of, 319 lace school at, 378

Great Wardrobe Accounts, where kept, 299 n816

Greek lace. (_See also_ Cyprus _and_ Ragusa) Devonshire imitation of, 414 n1165 Italian cut-work so called, 20 Milan point, 65 reticella so called, 50, 85

Greeks (ancient), embroidery of, 2, 3 and n8

Green, quoted, 296

------ silk lace, 291 n783

Greene, Mrs., quoted, 321 n926

Gremial, 70 n217

Grey, Lady Jane, anecdote of, 38, 297

Grillé, 30 n89

Gripsholm, portrait of Queen Elizabeth at, 307

Gropari (punto a gropo), 52

Gros point de Venise. _See_ Point de Venise, rose point

---- René, 32

Groslay lace, 210, 213 n589

Ground absent in certain laces, 31 kinds of, 30 round, 39

Gruner, Mr., cited, 476 n1316, 487 n1335, 489

Gruuthus mansion, collection at, 138

Gueuse, 33, 34, 41, 42

Guibray fair, 43 n136

Guipure Flemish, 123, 133 Genoese, 74 Honiton (modern), 409, 410 Maltese, 88 method of making, materials, uses, 35-40 modern, 39, 40 parchment lace probably English term for, 37-38 point de Venise, 49 tape, 39, 75 Turkish, 87

Gunning, Miss (Duchess of Hamilton), 425 n1199, 428, 429

Gurbert, cited, 219 n602

Gustavus Adolphus, 282

Gustaf Vasa, 279, 280

Guyard, Sieur Mathieu, 204-205

Guyenne, annual consumption of Le Puy lace in, 245 n657

Haag, cited, 265 n714, 269 n725

Haarlem thread, 216 n595, 223 n608, 245, 259 and n695, n697

Hailstone, Mrs., 23

Hainault, laces, 134 _et seq._; lace flowers, 121

Hair false, of Queen Elizabeth's time, 314 and nn fashion of wearing, 341 lace made from, 313; horse-hair used in Alençon, 194; goats'-hair and rabbits'-hair lace, 245 wigs, 336, 349

Hal, flax grown at, 118

Haliwell, quoted, 297 n809

Halle lace, 265

Hamburg point, 264

Hamilton, Anne, Duchess of (Miss Gunning), 425 n1199, 428, 429

--------, Lady Jane, 123 n351

Hamilton lace, 430

-------- net-work (modern), 434 n1216

Hamlet on the French stage, 186

Hammond, machine-net invented by, 447

Hand, Mrs., 445

Handkerchiefs, laced, 310 and n874, 337

Hangkow, lace made in, 89

Hanmer, Sir Thomas, 349 n1037

Hanover fabrics, 265

Hanslope lace industry, 380 n1119

Harefield church, sculptured lace on effigy in, 321 n927

Harent, Ignace, 230

Harrison, Major, rich dress of, 333

Hartruide, Madame, 279

Hartshorne, Albert, cited, 321 n927

Hatfield, old needlework at, 11

Hathaway family, embroidered bed linen of, 325 n941

Hauslaub, General von, 263

Havre lace, 183 n539, 217 n595, 218; number of lace-makers (1692), 216, 218

Hay, Lord, 64

Hayman, Mrs., 410

Head, R. E., quoted, 391 n1127

Headdresses (_See also_ Fontange) Louis XIV. styles, 164-166 mignonette lace used for, 35 prices of "heads," 348 Roman, 165 n486

"Heller," 391

Helmin, Fr. Margaretha, 502

Henderson, Anne, 430

Heneage, George, 346

Henrietta Maria inventory of, cited, 29 and n87, 146 n426 present from, to Anne of Austria, 330 and n961

Henry II. (England), 37, 202 and n569

-------- (France), introduces lace ruff, 139, 140 and n393, 262 n701

Henry III. (England), 37, 43; portrait in Pattern Book, 480

---------- (France), 140 and n396, 141

Henry IV. (France) fashion dolls sent by, to Marie de Médicis, 170 n501 Isle of Paris industry, probable connection with, 210 measures of, against luxury of dress, 141-142 and n405 shirt worn by, when assassinated, 142-143 and n412

------ VI., laces in fashion in time of, 286 and n761

------ VII., lace of time of, 288, 289 and n772

------ VIII. Act for the true making of pins, 294 n794 foreign lace allowed in England by, 67, 291 inventory of, cited, 372 n1098; quoted, 104 lace of, 64, 289, 291-292 and n772 sumptuary laws of, 436 and n1220 wardrobe account of, quoted, 289 and n768, n769

------, Prince (1607), 296 n798

Herault, Chancellor, 143 and n416

Herbert, Miss, 416

Herbouville, cited, 131 n371

Herculaneum, drawn wire lace found at, 72

Hergosse, M. de, 177 n525

Hesse, Landgrave, French fugitives received by, 265 and n711

Hieronimo, Fra., 469

High Wycombe, lace industry of, 380

Hippisley, Sir John Cox, quoted, 329; veil bequeathed to, 421

Hispano-Moresque point de Gênes frisé, 74

Hoche, General, 13

Hoffmann, Hans, 469

Holcroft, Mr., 169 n499

Hölesom, 280

Holidays in Roman Catholic countries, 102 n302

Holland Dutch extravagance in lace, 260 Haarlem thread, advantage of, to, 259 and n695, n697 lace imported into, 251, 254 lace industry in, 258-260 and n689 rivalry with French lace trade, 258

Hollie work, 325 and n939

Hollow lace, 299 and n816

Holme, Randle, cited, 31, 344; quoted, 251, 296 n799, 339

Holstein, daughter of Duke John of, 275

Holyrood Palace, lace trimmed basket in, 420

Honfleur lace, 183 n539, 218

Honiton, lace school at, 414

-------- lace account of, 399-411 bobbins and pillows used in, 415 n1166 Bruges lace a rival to, 133 guipure, 40 Indian contrasted with, 89 Japanese imitations of, 417 point duchesse compared with, 123

-------- lace-makers, skill of, 417 n1171

Hope, Sir Thomas, portrait of, 423

Horsehair used in making Alençon, 194

Hôtel Rambouillet, dressed dolls of, 170

Hove, Callys de, 306

Howel's Letters, quoted, 317 n906

Hubert, Soeur, cited, 220 n606

Hugo, Victor, quoted, 135, 164; cited, 136 n384

Humphrey, Thomas, 401

Hungarian lace, 268

Hungerford, Sir Edward, 395

Hunt, Susanna, 438

Hurdle, Mary, 395

Hutchins, quoted, 396 n1133

Hutchinson, Colonel, 333

----------, Mrs., Memoirs of, cited, 12

Hutton, Sir Timothy, 71

Iberian lace, 104

Ile de France. _See_ Isle de France

India lace exported to, 241, 251, 253, 322 n928, 329 and n958 pillow-laces of, 88 and n263, 89

India Museum, pillow laces in, 89

Indian muslin, 179-180

------ work of Denmark, 275

Innishmacsaint, 446

Innocent IV., Pope, 7

Inquisition, lace-trimmed banner of, 100

Insertion, 388

Ionian Isles lace manufacture of, 85 lace from tombs of, 365

Ipsden, Vicar of, MS. in possession of, 286 n761

Ireland Bath and Shirley School, 440 club against "foreign fopperies," 438 Dublin Society, the, 429, 437, 439 lace industry in, 436-446; Maltese guipures made in, 88; Irish point, 443 and n1233 prize offered by, for Dresden point, 262 sumptuary laws in, 435, 436 and n1220 yellow dye of, 307, 435, 436

Iron Mask, 166 n490

Isabella, Infanta, 113

--------, Princess (Sweden), 279 n746

"Isabelle" tint, 121

Ischia lace, 71, 263 and n705

Isle de France lace industry in centres of (17th century), 209 and n582, 210 Chantilly, 212-215 cheap laces, 210 Dumont's fabric, 211 Huguenots engaged in, 209 Spanish imports of lace from, 99

Israel, J., 469

Italians, dishonesty of, in lace trade (Henry VII.'s time), 48, 67, 288

Italy (_For_ towns, etc., _see their titles_) France, relations with, 16th century, 476 invention of lace claimed by, 109; of point lace, 45 lace imported by, 245, 251 n670 lace of (_See also_ Point _and_ Punto) centres of manufacture before 1665, 44 n144 England, fashionable in, 318; imitated in, 416 n1169, 417 Greek lace manufacture, centres of, 85 Points in relief of, counterfeits of, 105 Spanish point attributed to, 93, 97 lace schools of, 81 n249 revolutions in, lace seized during, 51 and n175 silk gimp specimens from, 85 Swiss lace from, origin of, 269 white thread made in, 49 n165

Jabot, 172

Jacobites, 425, 426

James I. gold purle manufacture prohibited by, 319 and n921 Great Wardrobe Account, 311 n878, 317 and n903, 318 nl7 Honiton lace industry in time of, 401 lace of, 64 monopolies granted by, 318-319, 378 period of, 315-326 ruffs under, 315-318

------ II. Edinburgh visited by, 425 period of, 340

------ V. (of Scotland), 372 n1098, 418 and n1172

------ VI. (of Scotland), 422 and n1195

------, Jacques, 205

Jane Seymour, 292

Japan, Honiton lace imitated in, 417

Jean lace. _See_ Genoa lace

Jerphanion, Sieur, 244

Jersey, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097

Jesuit lace, 445 and n1234

Jesuits, inventory of, cited, 331

Jesurum, Cav. Michelangelo, 62

Jew stick, 491 and n1349

Jewellery of 18th century, 346

Jews Athenian lace used by, 86 embroidery of (ancient), 2 gold and silver lace made by, 92 and n270

Jingles of bobbins, 391 n1127

Johan Adolf, Prince, 282

Johnson, Dr., quoted, 367

Jointeuse, work of, 122

Jolly, Margareta, 348

Jonson, Ben, quoted, 43 n139, 302, 313 n890, 316 and n922, 318 n910, n912, 327

Josephine, Empress, 123 n351, 177 n526

Jours, 31

Judith of Bavaria, 5

Junius, Hadrianus, 114 n327

Junot, Madame. _See_ Abrantès, Duchesse d'

Jurdaine, Mary, 306

Jutland lace industry, 274

Katherine of Aragon, Queen Bedfordshire lace-industry attributed to, 375 and n1106, n1107, 376 needlework of, 9, 10 and n32 portrait of, 129 n367 Spanish fashions introduced by 10 n32, 310

----------, Queen (wife of Charles II.), 43

---------- Parr, Queen, 10 n34

Keck, 423

Keller, Dr. Ferd, 270 n728

Kenmare, lace industry of, 443, 444

Kennedy, Tristram, 440

Kettering, lace industry of, 384

Killigrew, quoted, 318 n908

Kilravock, Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of, 425 n1198

Kinsale, lace industry at, 422 n1187

Knight, cited, 396

------, Miss, quoted, 264

Knole, old needlework at, 11

Knotted fringe, 13 and n47

-------- lace, 52, 68

Knox, Miss Jane, 438

Koehler, statuette by, 262

Königsmarck, Aurora, lace in tomb of, 366

La Boord, Madame, 43

La Chaise-Dieu, lace industry at, 249

"La Fontange," story of, 164

La Mancha, lace factory at, 102

La Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357

La Perrière, 155 n454, 157 n458

"La Providence" nuns, 226

La Vallière, 154, 464 n1280

Laborde, cited, 151 n438

Lace (_See also_ Old lace) Biblical meaning of term, 2 definition of term, 26 foreign equivalent of term, 26 n77 manufactures of, before 1665, 44 n144 parts of, 30 point and pillow, 32

---- Association, aims of, 393

Laced handkerchiefs, 310 and n874

Lace-makers, ill-health of, 415

Lacis Aurillac, 248 book of (1587), 18 definition of, 20 and n61, 21 _Don Quixote_, mentioned in, 98 n281 German, 264 Punto a maglia quadra, 52 Sicilian, 81 Tuscan, 68

Ladies as lace-makers, 163, 337, 355, 373, 374 and n1103

Ladomie, M., cited, 170 n501

Laffemas, quoted, 209 n583

Laid work, 301

Laimoxen, Balthasar, 489

Lalande, cited, 64

Lalma, 246

Lamb represented in lace, 21

Lamballe, Princesse de, 213

Lappets. _See_ Barbe

Larkin, Thomas, 312

Laroche, lace made at, 137

Larruga, cited, 101

Lassels, cited, 70; quoted, 73

Latomus, Sigismund, 267, 491, 492

Lauber, Miss Jacobina, 282

Laulne, E. de, 476

Launceston, lace-making at, 371 n1094

Laval, Geneviève, 183 n540

Laybach, 268

Le Prince, 465

Le Puy lace industry of cheap laces, 246 descriptions of lace of, 245 export trade, 245; value of annual export, 245 and n657 Haarlem thread used in, 245 import duties decreased, 244 and n653 numbers employed in, 242; (1851), 257 n688; in making Valenciennes, 245 sumptuary laws (seventeenth century), effect of, on, 243 lace schools of, 246 and n659 museum at, 246 Valenciennes lace at, 230 and n619

Le Quesnoy lace, 157 n459, 230

Lead, bobbins made of, 74 n235

Leber, M., cited, 487 n1336

Lee, Rev. William, 448 n1240

Lefébure, A. blondes mates exported by, 226 point d'Argentan revived by, 208 quoted, 75 n237, 155 n453, 158 n463, 159 n464, 194, 200; cited, 228, 250, 269 n724 teaching improved by, 227

Leicester, Countess of, 330

Leipsic, fair, 196 and n563; fabrics (1685), 265

Lennox, Countess of, 314

------, Duke of, 419 and n1176

Léonard, 181

Lepage, M., 134

L'Estoille, P. de, quoted, 141 n399

L'Estrange, Sir Thomas, 290

_Letters of a Lady's Travels in Spain_, quoted, 97-98

Leu, Sieur de la, manufactory of, 205-206

Liedts, Baroness, 138

Liège lace account of industry, 136-137 point de Sedan, connected with, 254 price of (1701), 136 n386

Lierre Mechlin lace made at, 125 pictures in St. Gomar, 109 n317

Light reflectors, bottles used as, 390 and n1125

Liguria, guipures of, 74

Lille lace compared with Spanish lace, 103; with Arras, 235, 240; with Valenciennes, Brussels and Mechlin, 237 cost of thread, 237 and n637 England, popularity in, 237 and n640; Bedfordshire lace called "English Lille," 385 ground, 236-237 modern, 238 lace-industry antiquity of, 235 decline of, 238 dress of lace-makers, 235 and n630 French duty on lace (1761), 237 n635 mignonette made (1665), 35 numbers employed in (1723), 237 n640; (1788), 238, 257 n688 rivalry with Mirecourt, 252 value of (1788), 238 lace-workers, daily amount produced by, 233 thread, fineness of, 119 n339; price of, 192 n553, 237 and n637; export of, to Scotland, 432

Limerick lace, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231, n1232; lace school, 442

Limousin, 250

Lincoln, maiden assize at, 338 n991

Linen embroidery of, 14 macramé, 79 and n248

Lisbon, lace factories at, 105

Lisle, Lady, 290 and n780

Loch, David, quoted, 433 and n1214; cited, 434

Locke, quoted, 430

Loisel, Franç., Phelyplaux, 125 n354, 174 n520

Lombard peasants, lace worn by, 64

London foreigners in (1571-1688), 129 n366, 299 n817, 306 and n853; complaint of women against introduction of foreign merchants, 286; complaints against foreign lace-makers, 324 n935 lace-making in, 373

------, Bishop of, sermon by, against ruffs, quoted, 316 and n899

------ _Chronicle_, cited, 4

------ _Gazette_, quoted, 11 n39, 126

Long Island, lace-making by Protestant settlers in, 372 n1099

Lonlay, Eugène de, cited, 208

Lonrai (Lonray), lace factory at, 155 n455, 156 and n457; sale of stock, 196

------, Marquise de, 157 n457

_Lord Thomas_ (ballad), quoted, 15

L'Orme, Marion de, quoted, 125

Lorraine, lace industry (_see also_ Mirecourt), 251 and n672, n673; Mignonette made (1665), 35; numbers employed (1851), 257 n688

--------, Queen Louise de, 144

Lost property, advertisements for, 337 and n990, 338 and n992, 342 n1010

Loucelles, Abbé Suhard de, 226

Loudun, 256

Louis XI., 139 n393

------ XIII. collar made at Venice for, 194 death of, 149 Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618 luxury and fashions of time of, 144-147

------ XIV. census of (1684), 131 cravats presented to ambassadors by, 163 death of, effect on Alençon industry, 192 fashions of reign of, 161 _et seq._ fête at Marly, 163 Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618 gold and silver lace of period of, 154 Paris lace commerce under, 211 sumptuary laws of, 152

------ XV. Court of, 172 and n505 fashions under black lace masks, 177 jabots, 172-173 mourning, 178 relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174 ruffles, 171-173 point d'Alençon patterns under, 198-199 and n566 trousseau of eldest daughter of, 176

------ XVI. fashions under, 179-181 phraseology of time of, 181 point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 ruffles of, 172 n508

Louisa, Queen (Sweden), 279

Louise de Vaudemont, Queen, 18, 478, 480

Louvain, pictures and altar piece at, 109, 110 and n317

--------, Widow, attempt of, to establish manufacture at Mortagne, 206

Louvres, lace-making at, 209

-------- en-Parisis lace, 212 n589

Lovat, Lady, 426 n1202

Low Countries. _See names of countries_

Lowndes, cited, 497 n1360, 500

--------, Richard, 380

Lubec, 264

Lucca, gold lace, 92

Lude, Duchesse de, 167 and n495

Luxada, cited, 75

Luxembourg, M. de, 167

----------, Maréchale de, 180

Luynes, Duc de, Memoirs of, quoted, 174 and n518, 176 n522

Luzarches lace, 212

Lydgate, quoted, 305

Lygum Kloster, 274 n736, 276 n738

Lyme Regis, lace industry of, 396-398

Lyons lace, 256

Lysons, cited, 384, 396; quoted, 405, 408

Mabbie, 423

Macaulay, John, 439 n1227

McCulloch, cited, 384

----------, E., cited, 224 n610

McCullow, Miss Martha, 438

Mache, 22 n70

Machine net, introduction of, 408

Machinery--"engines" of foreigners for lace-making, 324 n935

Maclean, Rev. William, 442, 443

McPherson, quoted, 112 n324

Macramé, 52, 79 and n247

Madden, Sir Fred., quoted, 297 n812

Madeira, laces of, 106, 107 and n316

Madras, Maltese-like lace made in, 88 n263

Madrid, lace factory at, 102

Magnus, Prince (Sweden), 280

Maidstone, complaints of, regarding imported Flemish thread, 324 n935

Mailly, Madame, 250

Maine, Madame de, 167

Maintenon, Madame de, 168, 183; letter to, quoted, 99; lace factory of, 163; letter from, quoted, 172 and n506

_Malcontent_, quoted, 322

Malines exhibition, voile de bénédiction at, 195 n561, 251 n674

-------- lace. _See_ Mechlin lace

Malta, grave-clothes lace-trimmed at, 365

Maltese lace account of industry, 87 and n262, 88 Danish manufacture of, 275 English manufacture of, 392, 393, 414 n1165 Greek lace similar to, 86 Guipure, 40 Madeira manufacture of, 107 n316 Saxon manufacture of, 263

Man, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1096

Manchester thread, 119 n339

Manchettes. _See_ Ruffles

Manegetti di ponto Fiamengo, 111

Manilla grass thread-work, 89 n265

Mantegna, Andrea, 467

Mantillas, 226

Manzoni, Count, cited, 488 n1340

Mar, Countess of, 419 and n1176

Marcello, Countess Andriana, 61

Marche lace, 68, 138 n392

Marcq, Catherine de, 157 n458, 158 n460, 190

Mare, de la, cited, 148 n431, 152 n440

Margaret of Austria, 23 n74

Margherita, Queen of Italy, 61, 62

Margot, Reine, 11, 22, 49, 141, 142

Marguerite de France, 11 n36, 22, 27, 33 n102

Maria d'Aragon, portrait of, in pattern book, 497

------ Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, 491

Marie Antoinette autograph letter, referred to, 213 fans and laces distributed by, 180 fashion at court of, 179-180 gazette of (1782), 181 n537 point de Marli worn by, 225 sale of lace of, 183

------ Louise, Brussels lace presented to, 124; lace trousseau of, 184, 196

------ Theresa, 259 and n699

Marnef, Hierosme de, 496

Marillac, Maréchal de, 147 n428, 265 n715

Marini, cited, 58

Marlborough, lace industry at, 395

Marli, 180 and n532

Marly, fête at, 163

Marriott, William, 380

Marryat, Captain, cited, 413; lace industry assisted by, 410

--------, Mrs., 500 n1365

--------, Miss Cecilia, 410

Marsan, Comte de, 210 and n585

------, Mlle. de, 211

Mary, Princess, daughter of George II., 348

---- I. accounts of, quoted, 297 gift of Spanish work to, 10 n32; Flanders work to, 294 interment of, 180 present to Lady Calthorpe, 297 ruffs of, 310 sumptuary laws, 293

---- of Burgundy, 135

----, Queen of Hungary, 113

---- de Médicis collarette of, 143-144 death of, 149 fashion dolls sent to, 170 n501 pattern book dedicated to, 22, 494 point de Gennes of, 72 sumptuary law published by, 144 and n419; evaded by, 149 and n434

Mary of Modena, Queen, 341, 425

---- II. fontange of, 342 knotted fringe worked by, 13 and n47 lace bills of, quoted, 168 n496 Mechlin ruffles of, 126 and n364

---- Stuart dentelle of, 27 finery of, overhauled by Elizabeth, 307 and n860 guipures of, 37 and n120, 38 inventories of, cited, 21, 33 n102, 302 n828, 314, 325 n939, 372 n1098 needlework done by, 10, 11, 420, 421 ruff on effigy of, 316 n901 wardrobe of, 419 and n1177, 420 and n1182, 421 will of, 22

Masch (Mawsch) 22 and n70, 419

Massillon, encouragement of lace industry by, 243

Massimo, Prince, reference to library of, 466, 468 n1290, 495 n1357

Massinger, quoted, 265 n717, 296 and n804

Matignon, Mlle, de, 176

Matilda, Empress, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 n22

--------, Queen, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 and n23

Matsys, Quentin, 109, 110

Matthew of Paris, anecdote by, 7

Maximilian, King of the Romans, 289

Maynard, Mrs. Lydia, 404

Mayne, Jasper, quoted, 317 and n905, 324 and n936

Mazarin, Cardinal, 143 n412, 150, 151 and n439, 248

Mazzarine, 343 and n1017

Mechlin lace arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 "Broderie de Malines" a term for, 125 characteristic of, 31, 125 compared with Bayeux lace, 228; with Brussels, 118; with Cretan mesh work, 87; with Lille, 237; with point de Dieppe, 218; with St. Trond, 137; with Valenciennes, 233 decline of manufacture, 125 description of, 124-125 earliest references to, 125-126 English fashion for, 126 grounds in, 125 imperial layette (1856), in, 198 Lille, pattern adopted at, 238 points de France rivalled by, 177-178 Pope's apron bordered with, 70 Turnhout manufacture of, 125, 131 uses of, 127-128 varieties included by term (1665), 35

---- net, 448

Medici collars, 56

Médicis family (_See also_ Katherine _and_ Mary), influence on fashions, 139

Melville, Sir Robert, 37

_Memoirs of Madame Palatine_, cited, 354

Men as lace workers Chili, 108 England, 392; south, 371 n1092; Northamptonshire, 385; Devonshire, 413, 414 France, 155 Madeira, 107 n316 Normandy (soldiers), 225 Saxony, 263 work of, compared with that of women, 263

Menin lace, 232 n624

Menzikoff, Prince, funeral of daughter of, 366 n1083

Meran blonde, 256

Mercier, Baron, lace school of, 196

----, S., quoted, 121 and n348, 170 n500, 171 and n502

Méric lace, 212

Merli, Cav. Antonio, cited, 46 and n150, 47, 50, 462, 466, 468 n1291, n1292, 487

Merli à piombini, 32 n98

Mermaid's lace, 49

Meshes, Cretan skill in, 86

Messina, lace work at, 81

Metal laces, Sicilian, 86

Mexico, mantillas exported to, 226

Meyer, Daniel, 496

Mézières lace, 183 n539, 253, 254

Mezzo punto, 58

Michel, Francisque, cited, 104; quoted, 251 n669

----, Pfarrer, 266

Michele, La Sig. Gabriella Zeno, 484

Middleton, quoted, 312 n884

Mignerak, Milour, pattern book of, 21, 22, 29, 493

Mignonette, 34 and n107, 35 and nn, 210, 237, 251

Milan Albissola lace bought for Napoleon I.'s coronation at, 78 Cantu the centre of lace of, 66 cathedral, lace camicie in underground chapel of, 66 early record of Italian lace belonging to, 63 Genoese lace contrasted with lace of, 75 n236 Greek lace made at, 85 Old Milan point, 65 punto di Napoli contrasted with point of, 71 réseau of points of, 66 wire lace industry at, 72

Milward & Co., 380

Minas Geraes, lace of, 108

Minifie, Mrs., 400 and n1140, 401 and n1142

Mirecourt lace, 212, 238, 251-253, 257 n688

Misson, F. M., cited, 54 n186; quoted, 267

Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs., advertisement of school of, 431 n1209

Modano, Tuscan, 52, 68

Modène, Duchess of inventory of, quoted, 120 n344, 121 n347, 128 n363, 135 and n383, 175 n520, 213 and n590 ruffles of, 233

Modes, 31

Molière, quoted, 152, 153 n442, 173 n515

Mompesson, Sir Giles, 318 and n914

Monaghan, crochet industry of, 444, 445

Moncrieffe, Sir Thomas, 425

Monks, needlework done by, 12 and n40

Mons lace, 134-135

"Monsieur de Paris," 173

Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 57, 59, 73; quoted, 128, 356 and n1061

Montague, Mrs. Elizabeth, quoted, 352

---- R., account entry by, 335 n982

Montargis, 256

Montbéliard, pattern-book published at, 28

Montchrestien, cited, 209 n583

Monteagle, Lord, 10 n32

Monteleon, Princess of, 98

Monthulay, family, 204

---- Sieur de, 205, 206

Montmorency, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589

Montrose, pearlin of, 423

Moorish lace, 104

Moors, Spanish lace-making attributed to, 45

Morant, Captain, 440

More, Mrs. Hannah, quoted, 368

Moreau, General, 13

Moretti, Nicolo, 484

Morgan, cited, 435

---- Sydney, Lady, 369

Morges lace, 212 n589

Morin, M.A., cited, 220 n606

Mortagne, 206

Moryson, Agnes, quoted, 55, 70, 73, 87, 258, 265, 268, 274

Moscow, lace school at, 284

Motteville, Mme., quoted, 154 n447

Mountague, Alice, 308

Mourning, lace discarded in, in James I.'s time, 324

Murat, Caroline, 183

---- laces, 248, 249

Mzeresk lace, 283

Nanduti, 108

Nani, Signora Viena Vendramina, 485

Nankin silk thread, 223 n608

Naples Greek lace made at, 85 lace from a palace at, 51 n175 lace of, 70-71; lace work of industrial school at, 83 n352

Napoleon bed made for, 196 favourite laces of, 128, 184 lace industry encouraged by, 123-124, 183-185, 196; attempt to revive Valenciennes, 231.

Nardendal, custom of natives of, 283

National Gallery portraits, illustrations of ruffs in, 316 n901

Navarre, Queen of, accounts of, quoted, 67, 141 n406, 142 n409, n411

Needle lace (_See also_ Point à l'aiguille) Alençon known as "needle-point," 195 Irish, 443 method of making, 32 Queen Elizabeth's, 305

Nelson, Lord, anecdote of, 264

Nemours, Duchesse de, 235

Nesmond, Marquis de, 117 and n331

Netherlands. _See_ Flanders, Belgium, Holland _and_ Brabant

Netting, 20, 21, 52; machine net, 408

Neufchâtel lace industry, 270 and n726

Neville, Mary, marriage clothes of, 291 n779

New Ross convent, lace made at, 444

Newport Pagnel lace, 375 n1105, 378, 382, 384

Newton, Rev. John, letter from Cowper to, 379

Nicholas, Edward, 329 n957

-------- Susanne, 329 n957

Nichols, quoted, 294 n791, 303 n833

Nicolas, Etienne, 160 n466

Night caps, 323

Noailles, Madame de, anecdote of, 180 n533

Normanby, Lady, 441

Normandy lace industry of. (_See also_ Calvados _and_ Dieppe) centres of, 216, 218 French Revolution, effect of, 223 mignonette made (1665), 35 numbers employed in different localities, 228 n614; (1851), 257 n688 value of, 228 n614 peasant women, Valenciennes bought by, 235

Norris, Sir Henry, 307

Northamptonshire lace, 384-393

Nosegays, lace trimmings for, 55

Nottingham lace, 441; Isle of Wight lace compared with, 372 n1097; machine-made blondes, 225; imitation mantillas, 227

Novgorod, fabric at, 283

Nuns, lace washed by, 373 and n1101

---- as lace-makers Flanders, 354 Italy, 47 and n154; Burano, 58; Florence, 67, 68; Cantu, 80 Portugal, 105, 107 Spain, 93

Nuremberg, 266, 267

Oberkirch, Baroness de, extract from Memoires of, 182

O'Brien, Mrs. R. V., 442

O'Hagan, Mother Abbess, 443

O'Halloran, Mr., 436

Old lace indifference to, 368 and n1090 mania for, 369 restoration of, 411, 412

Oldfield, Mrs., 367

Olney, lace industry of, 378, 380 n1119

Opus tract, 302

Orfreys, 3 n13

Orléans, Duchesse d', quoted, 166 n489

-------- Dukes of, inventories of, quoted, 120 n342, n344, 221 and n607

Orléanois lace industry, 256

Orsa lace, 281

Ostans, Giovanni, 484

------ Jean, 475

Oudenarde lace, 134

Our Lady of La Solidad, costly robes of, 90

--- ---- of Loreto, laces of, not described, 69

Overbury murder, 317

Oxford, opinion of, on falling bands, 326

------ Countess of, 9 n31

Oyah (Turkish crochet), 45, 87

Pagan, Mathio, 468, 471

Paganino, Alessandro, 468

Paganinus, P. A., 472

Paget, Lady, 295

Pagodes, 168 n496

Paintings, earliest in which lace occurs, 47; lace in paintings of 18th century, 222, 364

Palatine, Count, 326

-------- Madame, 168; Memoires of, quoted, 178

Pale of rose point, 51 and n174

Palermo grave clothes at, 366 and n1081 sculptured lace in villa near, 71

Palestine, lace-making at, 59 and n195

Pandore, la grande, 170

Parasole, Elisabetta Catanea, 495

-------- Isabella Catanea, 491, 496

Parchment lace, 37 and n122, 38 and n126, n129, n131, 297, 298

Paris churches, lace of, 120 n342, 161 n467, n469 English laces in demand at (1788), 368, 379 exhibitions. _See under_ Exhibitions lace industry Binche and Mirecourt flowers applied at, 212 Bisette made (1665), 33 and n102 commerce of lace under Louis XIV, 211 and n587 Dumont's fabric, 211 factories round, 209 guipures made (1665), 36 and n114 mignonette made (1655), 35 numbers employed (1851), 257 n688 passementiers privileged in, 44 pattern books in, 12 and n43

Parisini, Agostino, 477

## Partlet, 297 n810

Pasax, Marquis de, 190

Pasini, Tomaso, 483

Pasment in Scotland, 418

Pasolini, Countess, 81 n248

Passament (passement) definition of term, 26 and n79, 27 guipure a kind of, 36 references to, 27-29

"Passement Bond, The," 419

Passerotti, Aurelio, 472

Pattern-books Belgium Antwerp (n. d.), 130, 463 Liège (1597), 136, 488 cut-works, of (1591), 20 n62 earliest dated, 18; earliest known, 376 n1108 England London (1591), 482; (1624), 497; (1632), 499; (1640), 500 Northampton, 384 France Lyon (n. d.), 92 n269, 465, 466; (1549) 92 n269, 144, 464; (1581), 475 Mignerak's, 21, 22, 29, 144, 493 Montbéliard (1598), 28, 489, 490 Paris, in Bibliothèque Impériale, 12 n43; in St. Geneviève's library, 12; (n. d.), 468; (1530) 144, 461; (1546), 464; (1564), 475; (1584), 476; (1587), 17, 18, 477; (1587, 1588, 1595, 1606), 479-481; (1601), 20 n62, 490; (1605), 493; (1613), 494; (1623), 498; (1722), 501 Germany Augsburg (1534), 267, 462 Cologne (1527), 268, 459 Frankfort (n.d.), 470; (1537), 470 Frankfort-on-the-Maine (1568, 1569, 1571), 470; (1605), 267, 491; (1607), 492; (1618), 496 Leipsic (1619), 496 Lindau am Bodensee (n.d.), 488 Nuremberg (n.d.) 502; (1597), 489; (1601, 1604), 266, 490; (1666), 501; (1676), 501 Nuremberg and Leipzig, (1784), 501 Strasburg (1556), 469 gold and silver lace, of, 92 Italy Bologna (n.d.), 477; (1591), 483 Florence (1596), 488 Padua (1555), 469; (1604), 491 Pistoja (1642), 53 n181, 85, 92 n269, 500 Rome (1616), 495; (1625), 496 Siena (1603), 488 Turin (1589), 481 Venice (n.d.), 466, 471, 498; (1529), 461; (1530), 53 n179, 460; (1532), 462; (1537), 462; (1542), 463; (1543, 1544), 464; (1548), 53 n179, 468; (1551), 468; (1556), 469; (1557), 472; (1558), 471; (1559), 92 n269, 471, 472; (1560), 473; (1563), 474; (1564), 53 n179, 54 n182, 474, 475; (1567), 475; (1584), 476; (1591), 53 n179, 54 n182, 484; (1592) (Corona of Vecellio), 50 n167, 54 n182, 484; (1594), 486; (1600), 68, 491, 496; (1620 and 1625), 54 n182, 497 Samplars a substitute for, 22-23 Switzerland Basle (1599), 271, 490 St. Gall (1593), 271, 487 Zurich, 271, 469 unknown points in, 54 n182 Vienna Museum, in, 263

Pauline, Princess, 184, 185

Pays de Caux, 216

Peacham, quoted, 325, 329

Pearl (picot), 31

------ ties, 31

Pearlin, 422, 423

Pedlars, lace trade carried on by, 43 and n139, 44 and n142, n143

Pelegrin, Francisque, pattern book of, 144, 461

Pelican represented in lace, 21

Pellestrina, revival of pillow lace at, 62

Pembroke, Countess of, 322, 500

Peniche bobbins used at, 106 n314 lace industry of, 107 and n315

Pennant, quoted, 382; cited, 431 n1208

Penne, Mrs., 294

Penshurst, old needlework at, 11

Penthièvre, Duc de Eu lace patronised by, 221 inventory of, quoted, 117 n333, 195 n549 wardrobe account of, quoted, 172 and n510, n511, 211 n588

Peplos, embroidery of, 3 n8

_Pepys' Diary_, quoted, 153 n444, 337, 338

Persia, drawn-work of, 45

Peru and Mexico, lace imported to, from Le Puy, 245

Perugia, Torchon made at, 81 n248

Peter the Great, 283

Petersen, Anders, 280

Petre, Madame, of Gefle, information supplied by, 282 n750

Peuchet, cited, 132, 224, 256, 265, 377, 395; quoted, 216 n595, 218 n600, 220 n605, 225, 237 n640, 239, 244, 245 and n657, 268, 396, 432

"Pharsalia" quoted, 25

Philip II. (Spain), 67, 310

------ III. (Spain), 97

Philippa, Queen, 278, 285 and n754

Philippine Islands, Manilla grass threadwork of, 89 n265

Phrygians, embroidery of, 3 and n13

Pianesani, Francesco, 462

Picard, M., 490 n1346

Picchetti, Marie, 79

Pichon, Baron J., 482, 493 n1355, 495 n1356

Pickleman, Jungfrau, 266

Pickpockets, 346

Picot (pearl), 31 and n92

Pigott, Miss, quoted, 421

Pillows Barcelona, 103 n305 description of, 391 foreign names for, 32 n99 Honiton, 415 n1156

Pillow guipure, 116

------ lace (bobbin lace) Austrian, 268 bobbin lace, so called 32 Ceylon, of, 88 foreign names for, 32 n98 France, extension of industry in (seventeenth century), 159; trade crisis (1818), 187; fabric at Château de Madrid, 210 n584; gold lace of Paris, 212; first mentioned in French pattern-books, 494 Genoese, 74 Germany, introduction into, 260 Madeira, at, 107 Mechlin. _See that title_ method of making, 32-33 origin of, 29, 109 Peniche, at, 107 Russian, 283 and n751 Spanish, 103 n305 Valenciennes. _See that title_

------ net, 150

------ -beres, 16 and n56

Pin net machine, 448

Pinheiro, Dona Maria Bordallo, letter from, quoted, 107 n315

Pins for lace-making, 391 and n1126; State papers concerning, 294 n794

Pinwork lace, 294 n794

Piper Countess Elizabeth, 280

Pisa, lace work of industrial school at, 81 n248

Pitt, French fashions excluded by, 170

Pizzo, 74

Plaited laces, 392

Platteuse, work of, 122

Plissés à la vieille, 127

Pluymers, Jean, 158 n460

Point (stitch), kinds of, 32

------ lace invention of, claimed by Italy, 45 misuse of term, 32 varieties of, 33-35

------ à l'aiguille, 121; gazée, 123. _See also_ Needle point

------ d'Alençon Argentella, 193 and n555 Bayeux manufacture of, 228 Burano manufacture of, 62 compared, with point d'Argentan, 203, 204 and n571; with Brussels, 194, 199; with Colbertine, 339; with point Gaze, 123; with Sedan lace, 254 dress of, purchased by Emperor Napoleon, 198 earliest use of name, 195 and n557, n558, n560 grounds in, 193 imperial layette of, 198 industry Argentan, connection with, 204 centres of, 200 decline of, causes for, 192 early account of, 188-189 Edict of Nantes, effect of revocation of, 258 establishment of, 155-157 and n455 export trade, 192 method of manufacture, 192-194 Napoleon's patronage of, 196 number of lace-workers (1698), 191; (1786), 195; (1788), 192 n552; (1830), 196 origin of, 111 n323 quality of lace-work, 159 n464, 187, 194 revival of, 155 and n454, 196-197 value of (1786 and 1801), 195; (1830), 196 invention and establishment of, 155-157 and n455 lappet of, from Genoa, 78 and n244 "nun's work," 11 n39 patterns, 190-191; dates of, 198-200; Venice patterns copied, 191 season for, 178 shaded tints introduced in, 201 and n567 specimens of, exhibited, 200, 201 time required in making, 198, 201 Venetian réseau, relation to, 58-59 "vilain," 191 n551

------ d'Angleterre Angleterre à bride, 408 Aurillac manufacture of, 247 Burano manufacture of, 62 butterfly and acorn pattern in, 408 France, fashionable in, 118 and n336 history of, 117 and n332, and n333 point de France rivalled by, 178

------ d'Argentan "Argentella" possibly a name for, 78 n244 Armada pattern lace worked in, 397 Burano manufacture of, 62 characteristic of, 207 compared, with point d'Alençon, 203, 204 and n571; with point gaze, 123; with Venetian lace, 203, 204 n571 description of, 203 ground in, 203 and n570, 204 n571, 207-208 industry Alençon, connection with, 204 embroidery, replaced by, 208 n580 Guyard's revival of, 204-205 number of lace workers (c. 1744), 205; (1786), 195 rival houses, 205 value, annual (1786 and 1801), 195; (1788), 207 reference to (1738), 195 and n559 season for, 178

------ d'Aurillac. 154, 246-249

------ de Bourgogne, 255

------ de Brabant, 138 n392

------ de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre

------ à carreaux, 32

------ à chaînette, 32

------ des champs (point de Paris), 35

------ Colbert, 188 n548, 228

------ coupé (couppé), 17-18, 49, 140 _et seq._

------ de Dieppe. _See_ Dieppe

------ double (point de Paris), 35

------ duchesse, 123

------ d'Espagne. (_See also_ Gold lace) brides in, 58 definition of, 90 England, importation to, prohibited, 358; Honiton imitation of, 410 Irish imitation of, 443 n1233 point d'Aurillac compared with, 248 Portuguese laces compared with, 98, 106 Queen Elizabeth's, 307 references to, 98-99 n283, n285, 100, 103 n306, 354

------ d'esprit, 32 and n94, 229

------ de Flandre (_See also_ Flemish lace), 111, 144-145

------ de France. (_See also_ Point d'Alençon) description of, made at Alençon, 190 designs in, 158 n463 équipage, de bain of, 168 falbalas of, 167 and n492 industry centres of, 157 n459, 159 n459, 210-211 and n584 Dumont, Mlle., foundress of, 105 n312 establishment and history of company, 157-158 and n459 Flanders, effect on, 111 method of working pattern in, 31 n91 ordinance of 1665, 157 and n459 rivals to, 177-178 popularity in France and England, 161-162 references to, 157 n459, 159 n464, 195 and n557, n558, n559, n560

------ de Galle, thread lace from, 88

------ Gaze, characteristics of, 123

------ de Gênes (Genoa) collerette, 141 France, prohibited in, 148 n431, 154 and n451 history of, 72-73 and n230, 74 "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41,42

------ de Hongrie, 265

------ of Italy, first appearance in France, 144-145

------ de Marli. _See under_ Bayeux, lace industry.

------ de Milan, Irish imitation of, 443

------ de Moscow, 284

------ de neige (punto neve), 32 and n97, 51

------ de Paris, 32 and n93, 35, 210, 212

------ plat, 105 n313, 118, 121 and n347, 122 and n350; appliqué, 123

------ de raccroc, 120, 184, 226

------ de Raguse, 41, 83 and n254, 84

------ à la Reine, 32

------ de Sedan. _See_ Sedan

------ tresse, 314

------ de Venise Alençon imitations of, 191 characteristics, 123 England, importation to, prohibited, 358 France, prohibited in, 154 and n451 Guipure, 40 Irish imitation of, 442 Mary II., image of, shown wearing, 345 Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 Moscow imitations of, 284 origin of, 49-50 point à l'aiguille gazée so called, 123 point de Raguse so called, 83 resemblance of, to point d'Argentan, 203, 204 n591; to Le Puy lace, 245; to point de Sedan, 254 "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41 rose point (raised), 51 and n175, 62; price of, 57; Honiton reproduction of, 411, 416; Irish reproduction of, 443 n1233, 444 Spanish conventual lace compared with, 93 theft of, 105 and n313

------ de Venise à réseau, 57, 58

Pointeuse, work of, 122

Points, lace known as, 2

Poitou, 256

Poking-sticks, 312

Poland Alençon, trade with, 192 and n553 point de Sedan imported to, 254

Pole, Lady, effigy of, 403 n1145, 405

Polignac, Madame de, 180

Polychrome lace, 62-63

Pomfret, Countess of, 99 n285

Pommereu, M. de, quoted, 191 and n550

Pomp office, 319

Pompadour, Madame de, 184 n540

_Pompe di Minerva, Le_, cited, 53 n181, 85, 92 n269

Ponchel, du. _See_ Duponchel

Pont-l'Evêque lace, 183 n539

Ponthièvre, Duke de, 100 and n288

Ponto fiamengho, 111

Pontoppidan, quoted, 274 n736

Pontus de Gardia, 280

Pope, quoted, 367

----, the, apron worn by, for feet-washing ceremony, 70 and n217

Popplewell Brothers, quoted, 345

Porlin, quoted, 306 n854

Porter, Mrs. Grey, 440

Portland, Duchess of, 353

Portugal American imports of lace from, 106 bone pins used in, 295 guipures exported to, 36 lace-making in, 105-107 and nn Le Puy, lace imported from, 245 sumptuary laws in, 105

Postlethwait, quoted, 354; cited, 396

Pot lace, 130 and n369

Potter, Amy, 366 n1086

Poussin lace, 219

Poyntz, Adrian, 482

Prague, altar-cloth at, 9

Pridmore, Mr., 389

Princess Royal, bridal dress of, 409

Prior, quoted, 342

Prison-made lace, 81 and n248

Protection to English-made laces, etc., by English sovereigns Charles I., 330 Charles II., 335 George III., 359, 363 and n1068 William III., 341

Puisieux lace, 212 n589

Puissieux, Madame de, 49 and n162, 73

Pultenarian collars, 253.

Punto in aria (Burano point), 46, 51 and n171, 58, 62

Punto di cartella (cordella), 50

------ a gropo, 52

------ a maglia quadra (lacis), 52

------ de mosquito e de transillas, 99

------ di Napoli, 71

------ neve (point de neige), 32 and n97, 51

------ pugliese, 71 n222

------ di Rapallo, 75 n237

------ reale, 50

------ a relievo (rose point--_See under_ Point de Venise)

------ a reticella, 50 and n168

------ ricamento a maglia quadra, 21

------ tagliato (cut-work), 51

------ tagliato a fogliami, 51 and n172, 62

------ tirato (drawn work), 53 and n181

------ a Vermicelli, 75 n237

Purle lace, 310 and n875, n876, n877

Purling, 409

Purls, lace known as, 2

Puritans, lace industry under, in England, 332-334; in America, 372 n1099

Puteau, Madame, 433 and n1214

Queensberry, Duchess of, 356

Quentell, P., 459

Quicherat, 139

Quilles, 127, 168 n496

Quintain, 19 and n60, 20

Quinty, M., 268

------, P., 459

Rabat, 141 and n403

Rabbits' hair, lace of 245.

Radcliffe, Lady, 310 n875

Radford, Miss, lace school of, 416 and n1169

Raffy, Madame, 157 n458, 202

Ragusa, cut-works and laces of, 82-83

Rapallo, number of lace-workers at (1862), 76 Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn

Ratcliff, Lady, 294 n791

Rättwik lace, 281

Ravenna, lace school near, 81 n248

Rawert, cited, 274 n732, 277 n741

Ray, cited, 67

Réaux, Tallemant des, quoted 49; cited, 83

Rebecq-Rognon, flax grown at, 118

Récamier, Madame, 185

Regency point, 388

Regnard, quoted, 126 and n358, 167 n494

Regnier, quoted, 141

Reid, Miss, 440

Reiffenberg, Baron, cited, 109 and n318

Relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174

Religious subjects in lace, etc, 324

Renaissance, cut-work of, 17

René, Maître, 140 n395

Renfrew, lace industry at, 433

Réseau (réseuil, rézel, rézeuil) Don Quixote, mentioned in, 98 n281 methods of making, 120-121 needle-made by hand, 406 n1151 nosacé, 78 specimens of rézeuil d'or, 23 n74 uses of, 21 Venetian, relation of, to Alençon, 58-59

Restoring of old lace, 411, 412

Reticella (Italian) designs in, 68 Irish imitation of, 446

Retz, Cardinal de, 62

Revel, grave-clothes in church at, 366 n1083

"Révolte des Passemens, La," quoted, 40 and n134, 43, 104; cited, 83, 188

Rheims lace, 253

Rhodes, silk guipure of, 87

Riano, J. F., quoted, 93

Riazan lace, 283

Riband roses, 329 and n959

Ricci, Sebastian, cut work shown in "Last Supper" of, 79 n248

Rich, B., quoted, 317 n908

Richard II., statutes of, 216 n597

-------- III., 48, 294 n794

Richelieu, Duke, 144, 149

----------, Maréchal de, 171

Ripon, lace-making at, 371 and n1095

Riviera (_See also_ Albissola, Rapallo, Santa Margherita), lace manufacture of, 75, 79 and n245

_Rob Roy_ cited, 423

Roberts, Mrs., 445; account of lace school supplied by, 388-390

Robinson Crusoe, Flanders lace bought by, 134 n379

Rodge, James, 401

Roger, Widow, 207

Rohan, Catherine de, 212

------ family, 182

Roland, cited, 36 n113

------ de la Platière, quoted, 154 n451, 223 n608; cited, 245 n656

Romagna, lace-making in, 68

Romana, Lucretia, 498

------, Lugretia, 497

Romans, embroidery used by, 3 and n13, 4 n14

Rome, Greek lace made at, 85

----, King of, 196

Rondonneau, M., 152 n440

Rose point of Venice. _See under_ Point de Venise

Rosenborg Palace Museum, 273

Rosina Helena, Princess, 501

Ross, Mr., 482

Rossi, Giovanni, 483

Roumanian embroidery, 71 n222

Rousseau, Jean Jacques, 270

Rowlands, quoted, 289 n773

Rudd, Margaret Caroline, 352

Rue, Abbé, cited, 6

Ruel, Sieur, 155

Ruelle, Veuve, 468

Ruff cut-work, of, 312-313 England, introduction into, 310 falling band the successor to, 326 France, in, 139-141 and n399 James I., under, 315-318 Medicean, 322 Nuremberg, 267 sermons against the, 316 starching and fluting of, 311-312

Ruffles fashion of, in George I.'s time, 351 ladies wearers of, 365 and n1077 long, in George III.'s time, 363 and n1070 making of, 194 origin of weeping, 171 Valenciennes industry affected by disappearance of, 231

Run lace, 441

Russell, Lady Rachel, 348

Russia embroidery of, 71 n222 lace imported to, from Alençon, 192, 199; from Saxony, 263 lace industry in, 283-284

Ruvigne, M., 331

Rymer, cited, 291 n785

Sabbio, Fratelli de, 461

Sabenqua, 97

Sabière, M. de, 172 n505

Saffron Walden fair, 43 n137

Sainte-Aignau, M. de, 216

Saint-Albin, Mgr. C. de, 173 and n508

St. Aligre, 247-248 and n663

Saint-Brice lace, 213 n589

St. Bridget, lace introduced into Sweden by, 278 and n743

St. Cuthbert cope and maniple of, 7 grave-clothes of, 14-15, 366

St. Denis lace, 210

St. Dunstan, embroideries designed by, 5

St. Eustadiole, 5

Saint François Régis, 243

St. Gervais, 207 n577

St. Giselle, 5 n18

St. Lawrence, Lady, 310 n876

St. Lo, cut-work toile d'honneur used at, 25

St. Louis, hospital at Argentan, 207

St. Margaret's, Westminster, lady ancress of, 293

St. Martin's lace, 331 n965

St. Mary at Hill, 293, 302 n828

Saint Maximien, lace of, 212

St. Nicholas, flax grown at, 118 n338

Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, lace of, 213 n589

St. Simon, quoted, 73, 166

St. Trond, lace industry of, 137 and n390, n391

Salcombe, male lace-maker at, 413

Saltonstall, Mistress Susan, 483

Salviati, Joseph, 476

Samcloths, 23 and n73

Samplars, 9 n30, 23 and n73

Sandford, cited, 285 n754

Sandwich, Lady, 166

Sta. Lucie, Pierre de, 464, 465

Santa Margherita number of lace-workers at (1862), 76 Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn

Saracens, Italian lace-making attributed to, 45

Sarcelles lace, 213 n589

Sardinia deaf and dumb lace-workers in, 81 n248 Le Puy, annual value of lace brought from, 245 n657

Saule, Marchesa Barbaretta, 78 n244

Savary, quoted, 36 and n111, 54, 64, 126, 133, 255, 257 n687, 404; cited, 74, 118 n338, 125, 129, 135, 192, 210, 244, 246 n661, 247, 253 n677, 254 n681, n683, 262, 377

Savinière, quoted, 153 and n443

Savoie, Don Philippe, 143

Savona, 77 n240, 79 n246

Savonarola, quoted, 67

Saxony lace industry Barbara Uttman's work, 260-262 cheap lace of, 246 degeneration of, 263 Dresden lace, 262-263 modern, 263 numbers employed (sixteenth century), 261 patterns imitated in Denmark, 275 revenue from (sixteenth century), 261 treillis d'Allemagne, mention, of, in French inventories, 262 and n701

Scandinavian Museum, Copenhagen, 275

Scandinavians, lace work of, 4

Scarpariola, Cencia, 59, 61

Scarron, quoted, 177

--------, Veuve, 163

Schartzemberger, Johan, 462

Schleswig lace industry, quality of lace, 275; number of fabrics (1840), 277

----------, North, lace of, 272, 273; districts of lace industry, 276 n738

"Schole House for the Needle, A," 499

Schomberg, Col., quoted, 326 and n946

Schools, Lace Devonshire, 414, 415 and n1167, 416 Italian, 81 n248 Spratton, 388, 390

Schoulthem, Mr. Hey, quoted, 133-134 and n380

Schwartzenburg, John, 267

Scotch servant on old lace, 368 n1090

Scotland lace manufacture of, 422, 425 n1199, 428-434 sumptuary laws in, 422 and n1195, 424

Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 418 n1175, 427 and n1202

_Scottish Advertiser_ (1769), quoted, 35

Sculptured lace coloured marbles, in, 71 Harefield church, in, 321 n927

Seaming lace, 107, 325 n941, 332

Sedan lace, 183 n539, 253, 254

Sedgewicke, Elizabeth, 310

Sedley, Sir Charles, 13 and n47

Séez black laces, 196 and n562

Séguin, quoted, 113 n325, 139 n393; cited, 254

Select Society of Edinburgh, The, 429, 430 and nn

_Sempere Historia del Lujo_, quoted, 102

Senior, Hannah, 12

Sera, Dominique de, cited, 92; Pattern Book of, 476

Sevenges, Madame de, 290

Sévigné, Madame de bequest to, 183 n540 quoted, 154 n448, 162 n477, 366 n1084

Seville lace, 101

Sewell, quoted, 294 n794

Seymour, Lady Jane, 294

Sforza family, documents of, cited, 46, 50 n168, 63, 74 n235

Shadwell, quoted, 343, 345

Shakespeare, laces mentioned by, 295, 303 and n831; quoted, 309 n871

_Shakespeare Memorial, A_, quoted, 325 n941

Shandowes, Lady. _See_ Chandos

Shawe, quoted, 404

Sherborne, lace industry of, 396, 397

Sheridan, quoted, 346

Shirts adornments of, 15-16 Irish, 307, 435 Queen Elizabeth's present of, to her brother, 10 Spanish omission of, 97 n279

Shoes, lace rosette-trimmed, 329

Shrewsbury, Countess of, 11

Siam, King of (1614), 12

Sibmacher, 266, 490

Sicily, lace manufacture of, 80-81

Sicotière, Leon de la, 208 n579

Sidbury, lace school at, 414; lace lessons at, 416 n1170

Sidford, lace lessons at, 4l6 n34

Sidmouth, lace school at, 416 and n1169

Sidney, Sir Philip, 304

Sidonian embroidery, 3

Siena lace, 68

Silk guipure. _See_ Guipure

---- lace Almagro, at, 102 n297 Chinese, 89 Cretan, 86 Ragusa, at (gimp), 84 Watling, 422

Silver lace (_See also_ Aurillac lace) England, importation to, prohibited by, Queen Anne, 349; George II., 335 n993; confiscation and burning of foreign, 359 Hamburg, 264 Holland, introduction into, 259 India, exported to, 322 n928, 329 and n958 Ireland, exportation to, prohibited, 439 Large purchase of, by Lady Arabella Stuart, 325 Lyons, at, 256 Ragusa, at, 84 Scotland, wearing prohibited in, 422 Spanish, 100-102, 154, 211, 212 Zurich, 271

------ net-work, collar of, 82

------ purles, prohibition of English made, 330 330

------ thread, duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328

Silvestre, cited, 463 n1274, 464

Simiane, Madame de English point belonging to, 118 and n335 inventory of, quoted, 153 n444, 218 and n599

Sinclair, Sir John, quoted, 133-134 and n380, 428

--------, Miss Katherine, 419 n1176

_Sir Courtly Nice_, cited, 353 and n1052

Skelton, quoted, 251 n669

Skippin, quoted, 49 n165, cited, 72

Slammerkins, 356 and n1059

Slavonian peasants' work, 268

Sleeves, 341, 365

Sloper, Catherine, epitaph on, 13

Smith, Mother Mary Anne, 443

Smocks adornments of, 15 labourers' cut-work insertion on, 25

Smuggling of lace, account of, 357-362; of point de Bruxelles, 117; in 1621, 331; in Charles II's time, 336; Isle of Man a centre for, 372; to Scotland, 427

---------- of thread, 407

Smyrna, silk guipure of, 87

Smythe, Thomas, 425

Society of Anti-Gallicans. _See_ Anti-Gallican

-------- of Polite Arts, 262 n702

Sol, José, 484

Soldiers lace made by, 225 rich laces of English, 345, 346

Sonderburg, vault of Schleswig-Holstein family at, 366 n1082

Sonnettes, 34 n104

Sophie de France, 168

------, Grand Duchess, 268

Soragana, Marchesa di, 486

Sorbière, Mons. de, 70

Souche, Lady, 309 n870

South Kensington Museum, Cretan laces in, 86

Southey, quoted, 303 n830

Spacing lace, 325 n941

Spain America, lace exported to, 102 bone pins used in, 295 conventual lace work of, 93 earnings of lace-makers in, 102 embroidery of, 8 n28, 10 and n32 French fashions influenced by, 147 gold and silver lace, use and manufactures of, 100-102; imported to, 212 grave clothes of grandees in, 366 and n1085 guipures imported to, 36 holidays in, 102 n302 lace imported to, from-- Albissola, 77 Chantilly, 214 Dieppe, 219 Ghent, 133 Isle de France, 209 Le Puy, 245 and n657 Lorraine, 251 Marseilles, 101 Paris, 36, 212 Maestranza, the, uniforms of, 100 mantilla, kinds of, 102-103 and n305; mantillas exported to, 226 manufacture of lace in, centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 Moresse, dentelles de, 104 numbers of lace-makers in, 99, 101, 102 n294, n297, 104 point of. _See_ Point d'Espagne shirts frequently unworn in (1686), 97 n279 sumptuary laws of, 90, 97, 101 two kinds of lace made in, 103 n305

Spangles, 335; of bobbins, 391 n1127

Spanish-American colonies, Chantilly lace exported to, 214

-------- Indies, Brabant lace exported to, 129 guipures exported to, 36 Le Puy lace, annual consumption of, 245 n657

Spelle werk, 32 n98

Spenser, quoted, 303 n830

Spider net, 448

------ -work, 20

Spiral design, 7

Spratton, lace school at, 388-390

Staël, Madame de, 180

Stafford, Bishop, monument of, 405 and n1150

Stair, Lord, 99 n285

Starch, yellow, 307, 317 and n906, 435

Starching, introduction of, into England, 311; tools used for fluting and, 311-312

Steadman, Anne, 440

Steenbeck, 274

Steinkirk lace, 167 and n491, 344 and n1021, 345, 364

Stephens, quoted, 302 n828

Stepney, Lady, 369

Sterne, cited, 172

Stisted, Mrs., cited, 474 and n1308, 487

Stock, lace cravat succeeded by, 345

Stockholm museums, lace in, 282

Stone, quoted, 140

Stoney Stratford, lace industry of, 375 n1105, 379 and n1117

Stothard, Mrs., quoted, 216 n594

Stowe, cited, 294 n793; quoted, 310, 311 and n879, 312

Strafford, statuette of Earl of, 367

Strasburg, Archbishops of. _See_ Rohan family.

Stratford-upon-Avon, embroidered bed linen at, 325 n941

Strauben, George, 271, 487

Strickland, Miss, quoted, 420 n1184

Striqueuse, work of, 122

Strutt, Jedediah, 448 n1239

Strype, quoted, 38, 297 and n813

Stuart, Arabella, 325

------, Mary, _See_ Mary Stuart

Stubbes, quoted, 16, 313 and n892

Stuora, 53 and n179

Sturbridge fair, 43 and n140

Stures family, 282

Suffolk, Duchess, 292

--------, Earl of, 319 and n917, n918

--------, lace industry of, 394

Sully, 142, 210

Sumptuary laws Denmark, 274 and n733, n735 England, 285, 286, 288, 289, 290 and n776, 291, 293, 306 and n855, 319 France, 64, 141 and n404, n405, 144, 147 and n429, 148 and n431, 152, 154 and n450, 158 and n460, 212, 243 Genoa, 73 Ireland (192 A.D.), 435, 436 and n1220 Portugal, 105 "Révolte des Passemens, La," 40-43 Scotland, 422 and n1195, 424 Spain, 90, 97, 101 Turkey, 87 Venice, 48, 57, 79 n245 Zurich, 270

Sweden cut-work in, 25, 280 grave-clothes, lace adorned, 366 lace industry, bobbin lace of, 280 established at Wadstena, 278 growth of, 279 peasant lace work for home use, 281-282 Spanish point and guipure in museums, 282 sheets, laced, 280

Swift, quoted, 124, 339, 349 n1037, 352, 436

Swinburne, Thos. (1572), 301 n822

---------- (1775), quoted, 101

---------- (1786), quoted, 176

Switzerland, lace industry in, French refugees, settlement of, 269 mignonette made (1665), 35 Neufchâtel. _See that title_ origin of, 269 pattern books, 271 statistics of, 270 and n727 Zurich sumptuary laws, 270-271

Sylvius, Balthazar, 469

Syon Monastery cope, 7

Syracuse, Count of, quoted, 369

Tabin, B., 476

Taglienti, pattern-book of, 50 n168, 51 n171, 52 n176, n178, 53 n181, 71 n222, 82 n252, 460

Talavera de la Regna, lace made at, 101

Talbot, Gilbert, 304

Tallies, 78 and n154

Talma lace, 186

Talon, 158 n460

Tambour work, Hamilton, 434 n1216 Irish, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231 oriental, 440, 441

Tape lace, 116, 414 n1165

Tapestry, Greek lace a substitute for, 85-86

Tarnete (trina), 46

_Tatler_, quoted, 296 n806

Tatting, Manilla grass, 89 n265

Tax-books, Genoese, cited, 72 n224

Taylor, John, quoted, 323 and n933, 329; cited 500

Temple, Earl, 380

Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225, 73 n232; cited, 76 n238

Têtes de More (de mort, de moire), 36 and n113

Thelusson, Symphorien, 269

Theodoret, J., 469

Thierzac, lacis at, 248

Thomond, Earl of, 12

Thomsen, Prof., quoted, 272

Thomysi, Eleazaro, 481

Thread, importance of using fine (_see also under_ Lille), 393 and n1104, 446

------ lace Cyprian, 82 hand spinners of, protest by, 335 importation of, prohibited by George III., 355 n1047

Thynne, quoted, 298 n816

Tickell, quoted, 169 n497

Tighe, Mr., cited, 440 n1228

Tiverton, first machine net factory at, 408

Toilé, 30 and n89

Toile d'arraignée, Paraguayan, 108

Toledo, Donna Teresa de, 103

Tombs. _See_ Grave-clothes

Tönder lace industry, 274, 275, 277 and n740, n742

Toquet, 340

Torchon Milanese, 66 prison-made at Perugia, 81 n248 Saxony fabric, 263 Sicilian, 81 Spanish, 102 n297

Torello, 469

Torteroli, Sig. Don Tommaso, 79 n246

Tory, G., 476

Tottenham, Mrs. George, 446

Toul, "tulle" probably derived from, 250-251 and n669

Tournantes, 168 n496

Tournay, flax grown at, 118 n338

Tours, cope presented to Church of St. Martin at, 5

Towcester, lace industry at, 382

Travancore, pillow-laces of, 88

Treadwin, Mrs. cited, 401 n1140, 407, 413 Honiton lace industry, efforts for, 410, 411, 416

Trevelyan, Miss Audrey, 417

Trezola, 474 n1311

Trina, 46 and n150, n152

Trolle Bonde, Count, 282

------ kant, 115-116

Trollopies, 356 and n1059

Trolly ground, 386

------ lace, 371 n1095, 412-414

Trotman, Acting Consul, cited, 89

Trousse, Mlle. de la, cited, 40 n134

Troyaux, Mons., 124

Tucker, Mrs. Marwood, 407 n1154

Tulle (town), manufactures of, 250

Tulle embroidered, 229 German manufacture of, 250 lace discarded in favour of, 187 Marie Antoinette, at Court of, 180 origin of name, 250 predecessor of, 225

Turkey oyah made in, 45, 87 silk gimp specimens from, 85 sumptuary laws in, 87 tambour work in, 441

Turn, 401 n1140

Turner, Mrs., yellow starch invented by, 307, 317 and n906, 435

Turnhout, Mechlin lace made at, 125; number of fabrics (1803), 131

Turin, fashion at Court of, 153 n445

Tuscan lacis, 52-53, 68

Tussaud, Madame, 143 n412

Twopenny, Mr. W., 286 n761

Tynan lace industry, 442, 443

Tyrol (Austrian) lace industry, 268

Udine, lace school at, 81 n248

Unbleached thread, pattern worked in, 338

Underclothing lace-trimmed, in Scotland, 426

United States. _See_ America

Urbino, lace making in, 68

Urbino, Duchess, 471

Ursins, Madame des, 99, 172

Ustariz, quoted, 102

Uttman, Barbara, 260-262, 447

Val de Travers, rivalry with Mirecourt, 252, 270

Valcameos, 246

Valencia gold and silver lace made at, 101 saints' images decked in lace at, 100

Valenciennes Lace compared with Binche, 135; with Dutch, 260; with Eu lace, 221; with Isle of Man lace, 372 n1096; with Lille, 237; with Mechlin, 233; with point de Dieppe, 220; with Welsh lace, 371 n1094 cost of (1788), 234 and n627 fault of, 235 n629 Honiton reproduction of, 416 industry centres of, 132; after French Revolution, 231 n624; expense and labour in making, 233; cost of thread, 234 n627 decline of, 231 establishment of, date, 230 French Revolution, effect of, 183 n539 method of working pattern in, 31 numbers employed (18th century), 230; (1790 and 1851), 231; at Ypres (1684 and 1850), 131 period of highest merit, 234-235 time required in producing, 233-234 value of Belgium monopoly, 132 and n376 wages and conditions of work, 233 point a misnomer for, 32 réseau of, 66 varieties of Alost (ground stitch), 133 Bailleul, 241 Bohemia, 268 Bruges, 132-133 Courtrai, width of, 131 n373; compared with Ypres, 132; ground stitch, 133 n377; character of, 232 n624 Dijon, 255 fausses Valenciennes, manufactories of, 241, 387 Ghent (ground stitch), 133 n377 Le Puy, 230 and n619, 245 vrai Valenciennes, 231 and n624 Ypres, description of, 131, 231 n624; value of, 131 n373; ground and pattern, 131-133

Valentine de Milan, 139 n393

Valets, extravagance of, 173 and n514

Valguarnera, Prince, 71

Valladolid, lace-trimmed banner at, 100

Valois line, influence of, on French fashions, 139

_Valuables of Glenurquhy_, quoted, 325 and n938

Valvassore's heirs, pattern book of, 476

Van Even, Edward, cited, 110 n320

Van Eyck, Jacob, quoted, 111 and n322

Van Londonzeel, Assuerus, 111

Vandyke edges, origin of term, 448 n1241

Vatican, laces of, 70

Vavassore, Giovanni Andrea, 466, 467, 472

Vecellio cited, 71 and n221 Corona of, 8 n28, 29, 50 n167, 111, 484, 486

Veils, bridal, 78; English, fourteenth century, 285

Vélay lace industry (_See also_ Le Puy), fifteenth century, 242; 18th century, 244; thread used, 245

Venezuela, lace of, 108

Venice Billament lace of, 48 and n159 blonde, formerly made in, 59 n195 Brussels lace worn at, 57 and n192 Colbert, ordinance of, trade affected by, 54 collar made for Louis XIII. at, 194 emigration of workers restricted, 159 n465 English imports from, 43, 288, 307 n863, n864; prohibited, 358 fashion dolls at St. Mark's fair, 170 n501 frauds of lace-makers in, 48, 67, 288 gold work of, 288, 307 n863, n864 Greek lace made at, 85 Medici collars made at, 56 numbers employed on lace-making in, 63 Point of. _See_ Point de Venise polychrome lace, introduction of, 62-63 sumptuary laws in, 48, 57, 79 n245 Swiss lace from, origin of, 269 travellers' allusions to products of, 55, 57 varieties of lace supplied by, 50-53, 57-58

Verbruggen, 129 n367

Verceilles, 249

Verghetti, 56

Vermicelli lace, 74

Verney Papers, quoted, 319 n916

Verona, St. John, life of, executed in needlework at, 8 n26

Veronese, Paul, _macramé_ in picture, by, 79 n248

Verulam, Lord, 101 and n289

Viarmes lace, 212

Victoria, Queen Honiton lace flounces ordered by, 410 Isle of Wight lace patronised by, 372 n1097 State liveries of, 174 n516 trousseau of, 392, 409

Victoria and Albert Museum Alençon in, 193 n555 Bock exhibits in, 23 n74 Cyprian lace in, 82 Danish embroideries in, 275 Genoese lappet in, 78 and n244 German specimens in, 264; Nuremberg ruffs, 267 Hungarian peasant lace in, 268 Irish imitation Venetian point in, 443 n1233 lacis borders in, 20-21 Norwegian cut-work in, 280 n747 pale of rose point in, 51 Paraguayan drawn-work at, 108 pattern-books in, 467 n1287, 468, 470, 477, 488 n1337, 490 n1344, 497 n1361, 501 n1370, 502 n1371 Slavonian peasants' work in, 268 Suffolk laces in, 394 Syon Monastery cope in, 7 tape lace in, 116

Villemarqué, cited, 229 n616

Villiers, Dame Barbara, 328

--------, Sir Edward, 319 n918

--------, Sir George, 318

Villiers-le-Bel, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589

Vimoutier, 204

Vinciolo, Frederick Katharine de Médicis the patroness of, 11,17 pattern book of, 49, 136, 144, 477-482, 487, 494

Virginière, Blaise de, quoted, 140, 141 and n401

Vittoria, Sister Felice, 93

Volant, origin of name, 168 n496

Vologda lace, 283

Voltaire, quoted, 166 n490

Vorsterman, William, 180, 463

Vos, Martin de, engravings after, 106 and n268

Vrai réseau, bride succeeded by, 406

Vrillière, Mgr. de la, 162 n475

Waborne lace, 300 and n819

Wace, Robert, cited, 202

Wadstena lace industry, 278-280

Wages of lace-workers. _See_ Earnings

Wakefield, quoted, 440 n1228

Waldgrave, Sir Edward, 293

Wales, lace-making in, 371 and n1094

------, Princess of, 409

Walker, Charles, 441 and n1230, 442

Walpole, cited, 297 n808, 356 and n1060

Walsingham, 307 n860, 420 n1182

----------, Lady Audrye, 64, 320 n925

Wareham, lace found in Scandinavian barrow near, 4

Warwick, Lord, 333

Warton, J., quoted, 121 and n349

Washing of ecclesiastical lace, 373 n1101

Waterloo, hospital for English wounded at, 124

Waterman, Mrs. Elizabeth, 395

Watling silk lace, 422

Watt, cited, 482 n1329

Weaving Book, 280

Webb, Mr., 51

Weber, cited, 280 n758

Weigel, Christoph, 501

------, Joh. Christoph, 502

Weisse, C., cited, 259 n693, 264 n707

West Indies, Spanish lace sold in, 102 n294

Westcote, quoted, 400; cited, 401

Westminster procession of lace-makers to, 360 St. Margaret's, lace washing from, 373 n1101

------------, Dean of, forbids yellow starch, 317

------------ Abbey epitaph in cloisters of, 13 lace on images in, 316 n901, 345

Westphalia Jutland industry improved by workers from, 274 thread, fineness of, 119 n339

Whisks, 334

Whitcomb, John, widow of, 17

White, Edward, 482

------ Knight's sale, 497

Wieselgren, H., cited, 493 n1354

Wight, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097

Wigs, cost of, 349 falling bands put out of fashion by, 336

Wilhelmina of Bayreuth, 99 n283

Willemin, cited, 475 n1313

William III., period of, 341-346

-------- of Malmesbury, quoted, 6

-------- of Normandy, 6-7

-------- of Poictiers, quoted, 7

-------- the Silent, 260

Willingham, Geo., letter to, cited, 98 n282

Wilton, Lady, cited, 497

Wiltshire and Dorsetshire lace, 395-398

Winchester, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320

----------, Lady Marquis of, 309 n870

Wire, gold and silver lace made from, 72

---- ground, 386

Wiseman, Cardinal, lace alb used by, 92-93

Wolfe, I., 482

Wolsey, Cardinal, lace of, 292

Women, lace work of, compared with that of men, 263

Woodbury Maltese lace imitation made at, 414 n1165 men lace-makers at, 413

Woollen manufacture in England lace manufacture next to, in 1698, 402 loss to, from edict against Flanders lace 341, 342, 349

Worcester, Countess of, 313

Wotton, Sir Henry, 136 n385

Wraxall, cited, 105, 142; quoted, 263

Wulff, Jens, 276 and n739

Wyatt, Sir Thomas, 294

Wyriot, Madame, 205

Yarranton, Andrew, quoted, 114-115 and n327; cited 259 n696

Yemenis, M., cited, 488 n1339

Yokohama, lace school at, 417

Yorck lace, 138 n392

York, Cardinal, 421

Youghal Convent, lace-making at, 443, 444

Young, A., cited, 192 n552, 207, 223, 224, 244; quoted, 234 n627, 239

Ypres Valenciennes. _See under_ Valenciennes

Yriarte, Charles, cited, 159 n465

Zante, Greek lace made at, 85

Zedler, cited, 57

Zoppino, Nicolo, 461, 462

Zouch, Lord, cited, 136 n385

Zurich, sumptuary laws of, 270 and n728

LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND 28, GREAT WINDMILL STREET. W.

Notes

[1] Wilkinson's _Ancient Egyptians_, vol. iii., p. 134. (See Illustration.)

[2] Herodotus, ii. 182; iii. 47.

[3] Ezekiel, who takes up the cry of lamentation for "Tyrus, situate at the entry of the sea," a merchant of the people for many isles, exclaims, "The merchants of Sheba, Asshur, and Chilmad were thy merchants. These were thy merchants in all sorts of things, in blue cloths and broidered works, and in chests of rich apparel." Another part of the same chapter mentions galley sails of fine linen "with broidered work from Egypt."--Ezekiel xxvii.

[4] Exodus xxvi.; xxvii.; xxxiv. 2; Isaiah iii. 18; 1 Kings vii. 17.

[5] Exodus xxxviii. 23.

[6] Again, in the song of Deborah, the mother of Sisera says, "Have they not divided the prey?... to Sisera a prey of divers colours of needlework, of divers colours of needlework on both sides."--Judges v. 30.

[7] Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making. A. S. Cole (London, 1881).

[8] At Athens the maidens who took part in the procession of the Panathenaea embroidered the veil or _peplos_ upon which the deeds of the goddess were embroidered. The sacred _peplos_ borne on the mast of a ship rolled on wheels in the Panathenaic festival "was destined for the sacred wooden idol, Athene Polias, which stood on the Erechtheus. This _peplos_ was a woven mantle renewed every five years. On the ground, which is described as dark violet, and also as saffron-coloured, was inwoven the battle of the gods and the giants." (See page 47, _British Museum Catalogue to the Sculptures of the Parthenon_.)

[9] Pliny, _Hist. Nat._, viii. 74. "Colores diversos picturae intexere Babylon maxime celebravit et nomen imposuit."

[10] Maspero, _The Dawn of Civilisation in Egypt and Chaldaea_ (ed. Prof. Sayce).

[11] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_ (trans. A. S. Cole).

[12] Lucan, _Pharsalia_, Book X.

[13] The Romans denominated such embroideries _phrygionae_, and the embroiderer _phrygio_. Golden embroideries were specified as _auriphrygium_. This word is the root of the French _orfroi_ (orfreys).

[14] Mrs. Palliser quotes an extract from the author of _Letters from Italy_, who, speaking of the cabinet at Portici, mentions an elegant marble statue of Diana "dressed after the purple gowns worn by the Roman ladies; the garment is edged with a lace exactly resembling point; it is an inch and a half broad, and has been painted purple." By an Englishwoman (Mrs. Millar) in the years 1770 and 1771 (London, 1777).

[15] Strutt.

[16] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_.

[17] Mrs. Bury Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_.

[18] St. Giselle, Berthe's sister, founded many convents in Aquitaine and Provence, and taught the nuns all manner of needlework (Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_).

[19] _Chronique Rimée_, by Philippe Mouskés.

[20] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_.

[21] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_.

[22] It has been suggested that the embroidery was done by William's granddaughter, the Empress Matilda, widow in 1125 of Henry V., Emperor of Germany, and wife, by her second marriage, of Geoffrey, Count of Anjou (Lefébure).

[23] Mr. Fowke states that the tradition which would make the tapestry the handiwork of Queen Matilda cannot be traced further back than 1803, when the tapestry was sent to Paris for exhibition.

[24] Matt. Par., _Hist. Angl._, p. 473, Edit. Paris, 1644.

[25] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_.

[26] At Verona an artist took twenty-six years to execute in needlework the life of St. John, after the designs of Pollajuolo.

[27] "Gaston, Duke of Orleans, established hot-houses and botanical gardens, which he filled with rare exotics to supply the needle with new forms and richer tints" (Lefébure).

[28] We read, for instance, that Gabrielle de Bourbon, wife of Louis de la Trémouille, "jamais n'estoit oyseuse, mais s'employoit une partie de la journée en broderies et autres menus ouvrages appartenant à telles dames, et y occupoit ses demoyselles dont avoit bonne quantité, et de grosses, riches, et illustres maisons."--_Panegyric de Loys de la Trèmoille par Jean Bouchet._

Again Vecellio dedicates his "Corona" to Signora Nanni, not only on account of the pleasure she takes in works of the needle, but for "il diletto che prende in farne essercitar le donne de casa sua, ricetto delle più virtuose giovani che hoggidi vivono in questa città."

"It is usual here," writes a lady from Madrid in 1679, "for good families to put their daughters to ladies, by whom they are employed to embroider in gold and silver, or various colours, or in silk, about the shift, neck, and hands."

"I jor fist es chambre son pere, Une estole et i amict pere, De soie et d'or molt soutilment, Si i fait ententivement Mainte croisette et mainte estoile, Et dist ceste chancon à toile." --_Roman de la Violette._

"One day, seated in her father's room, she was skilfully working a stole and amict in silk and gold, and she was making in it, with great care, many a little cross and many a little star, singing all the while this _chanson à toile_."

[30] In one of Edward I. we find a charge of eight shillings for silk bought for the embroidery work of Margaret, the King's daughter, and another for four ounces of silk, two hundred ounces of gold thread, a spindle, etc.--_Liber de Garderoba, 23 Edw. I._, Public Record Office.

In one of Edward III. the sum of £2 7s. 2d. is expended in the purchase of gold thread, silk, etc., for his second daughter Joanna.--_Liber Garderobae, 12-16 Edw. III._, Public Record Office.

Elizabeth of York worked much at her needle. In the account of her household, preserved in the Public Record Office, every page of which is signed by Queen Elizabeth herself, we find--

"To Evan Petreson joiner, for the stuff and making of 4 working stools for the Queen; price of the stool 16 pence--5s. 4d.

"To Thomas Fissch, for an elne of linen cloth for a samplar for the queen, 8d."

In the Inventory 4 Edward VI., 1552 (Harl. MSS. No. 1419), are entries of--

"Item, XII. samplars" (p. 419).

"Item, one samplar of Normandie canvas, wrought with green and black silk" (p. 524).

"A book of parchment containing diverses patternes" (p. 474), probably purchases for his sisters.

[31] See, for instance, the interesting account of the Countess of Oxford, given by Miss Strickland in her _Life of Queen Elizabeth of York_.

[32] These are alluded to in the dialogue between Industria and Ignavia, as given in Sibmacher's "Modelbuch," 1601 (French translation): "La vieille dame raconte l'histoire des concours de travail à l'aiguille chez les anciens Espagnols; comme Isabelle, femme de Ferdinand, a hautement estimé les travaux de l'aiguille."

The "Spanish stitch," so often mentioned, was brought in by Katharine, on her marriage with Prince Arthur, in 1501. We have constantly in her wardrobe accounts sheets and pillow-beres, "wrought with Spanish work of black silk at the edge."

In the Inventory of Lord Monteagle, 1523 (Public Record Office,) are "eight partlets, three garnished with gold, the rest with Spanish work."

In 1556, among the New Year's gifts presented to Queen Mary Tudor, most of the smocks are "wrought with black silk, Spanish fashion."

In the Great Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth, 3 & 4, Public Record Office, we have "sixteen yards of Spanish work for ruffs."

"Twelve tooth cloths, with the Spanish stitch, edged with gold and silver bone lace."--_Ibid._ Eliz. 5 & 6.

The Spanish stitch appears in France with Henry II., 1557. "Pour la façon d'ung gaban avec ung grant collet chamarrez à l'Espaignolle de passement blanc," etc.--_Comptes de l'Argentier du Roy._ Archives Nat. K. K. 106.

[33] Taylor, the Water Poet, _Katharine of Aragon_.

[34] The industry of Henry's last queen was as great as that of his first. Specimens still exist at Sizergh Castle, Westmoreland, of Katharine Parr's needlework--a counterpane and a toilet cover. An astrologer, who cast her nativity, foretold she would be a queen; so when a child, on her mother requiring her to work, she would exclaim, "My hands are ordained to touch crowns and sceptres, not needles and spindles."

[35] _Dames Illustres._

[36] The "Reine des Marguerites," the learned sister of Francis I., was not less accomplished with her needle, and entries for working materials appear in her accounts up to the year of her death, 1549.

"Trois marcs d'or et d'argent fournis par Jehan Danes, pour servir aux ouvraiges de la dicte dame."--_Livre de dépenses de Marguerite d'Angoulême_, par le Comte de la Ferrière-Percy. Paris, 1862.

"Elle addonoit son courage A faire maint bel ouvrage Dessus la toile, et encor A joindre la soye et l'or. Vous d'un pareil exercise Mariez par artifice Dessus la toile en maint trait L'or et la soie en pourtrait."

--_Ode à la Royne de Navarre_, liv. ii., od. vii.

[38] 1380. "Oeuvre de nonnain."--_Inventaire de Charles V._

[39] "My grandmother, who had other lace, called this" (some needlepoint) "nun's work."--_Extract from a letter from the Isle of Man_, 1862.

"A butcher's wife showed Miss O---- a piece of Alençon point, which she called 'nun's work.'"--_Extract from a letter from Scotland_, 1863.

1698, May. In the _London Gazette_, in the advertisement of a sale by auction, among other "rich goods," we find "nun's work," but the term here probably applies to netting, for in the _Protestant Post Boy_ of March 15th, 1692, is advertised as lost "A nun's work purse wrought with gold thread."

1763. In the _Edinburgh Advertiser_ appears, "Imported from the Grand Canaries, into Scotland, nun's work."

[40] As, for instance, "the imbrothering" of the monks of the monastery of Wolstrope, in Lincolnshire.

[41] _Livre de Lingerie._ Dom. de Sera, 1581. "Donne, donzelle, con gli huomini."--Taglienti, 1530. Patterns which "les Seigneurs, Dames, et Damoiselles ont eu pour agréables."--Vinciolo, 1587.

[42] Jehan Mayol, carme de Lyon; Fra Hieronimo, dell' Ordine dei Servi; Père Dominique, religieux carme, and others.

[43] One in the Bibliothèque Impériale is from the "Monasterio St. Germani à Pratis."

[44] He died in 1595. _Lives of the Earl and Countess of Arundel_, from the original MS. by the Duke of Norfolk. London, 1857.

[45] P. R. O. Calendar of State Papers. Domestic. Charles I. Vol. clxix. 12.

[46] P. R. O. Calendar of State Papers. Colonial. No. 789.

[47] See his epigram, "The Royal Knotter," about the queen,

"Who, when she rides in coach abroad Is always knotting threads."

[48] Translated from the _Libellus de Admirandis beati Cuthberti Miraculis_ of Reginald, monk of Durham, by Rev. J. Rain. Durham, 1855.

[49] _Chronicle of John Hardyng_, circ. 1470.

[50] Temp. Rich. II. In their garments "so much pouncing of chesell to make holes, so much dragging (zigzagging) of sheers," etc.--_Good Parson_, Chaucer.

[51] Percy, _Reliques of Ancient Poetry_, vol. iii.

[52] _Anatomie of Abuses_, by Philip Stubbes, 1583.

[53] _The Shyp of Folys of the Worlde_, translated out of Latin by Alex. Barclay, 1508.

[54] The inventories of all nations abound in mention of these costly articles. The "smocks" of Katharine of Aragon "for to lay in," were wrought about the collar with gold and silk. Lord Monteagle, 1523, had "two fine smocks of cambric wrought with gold." (Inv. P. R. O.) Among the New Year's Gifts offered to Queen Mary Tudor by the Duchess of Somerset (1556), we find a smock wrought over with silk, and collar and ruffles of damask, gold purl, and silver. Again, in the household expenses of Marguerite de France, 1545, we find a charge of "4 livres 12 sols, pour une garniture de chemise ouvré de soye cramoisie pour madicte dame."--(Bib. Imp. MSS. Fonds François, 10,394.) About the same date (G. W. A. Eliz. 1 & 2, 1558-59) appear charges for lengthening one smocke of drawne work, 20s. Six white smockes edged with white needlework lace, 10s. To overcasting and edging 4 smockes of drawn work with ruffs, wristbands, and collars, three of them with black work, and three of them with red, etc. At the funeral of Henry II. of France, 1559, the effigy was described as attired in "une chemise de toile de Hollande, bordée au col et aux manches d'ouvraige fort excellent."--Godefroy, _Le Cérémonial de France_, 1610.

[55] See FRANCE.

[56] The pillow-bere has always been an object of luxury, a custom not yet extinct in France, where the "taies d'oreiller, brodées aux armes," and trimmed with a rich point, form an important feature in a modern trousseau. In the inventory of Margaret of Austria, the gentle governess of the Low Countries, are noted--

"Quatre toyes d'oraillers ouvrées d'or et de soye cramoysie et de verde.

"Autres quatres toyes d'oraillers faites et ouvrées d'or et de soye bleu à losanges qui ont estées données à Madame par dom Diego de Cabrera."--_Corr. de l'Empereur Maximilien I. et de Marguerite d'Autriche_, par M. Leglay. Paris, 1839.

Edward VI. has (Harl. MSS. 1419) "18 pillow-beres of hollande with brode seams of silk of sundry coloured needlework." And again, "One pillow-bere of fine hollande wrought with a brode seam of Venice gold and silver, and silk nedlework."

And Lady Zouche presents Queen Elizabeth, as a New Year's gift, with "One pair of pillow-beares of Holland work, wrought with black silk drawne work."--Nichol's _Royal Progresses_.

[57] _Goderonné_--_goudronné_, incorrectly derived from pitch (_goudron_), has no relation to stiffness or starch, but is used to designate the fluted pattern so much in vogue in the sixteenth century--the "gadrooned" edge of silversmiths.

1588. Il avait une fraise empesée et godronnée à gros godrons, au bout de laquelle il y avoit de belle et grande dentelle, les manchettes estoient goudronnées de mesme.

[58] They are introduced into the Title page of this work.

[59] See APPENDIX.

[60] "Quintain, quintin, French lawne." Randle Cotgrave. _Dictionarie of the French and English tongues._ 1611.

"26 virges de Kanting pro sudariis pro ille 47/8."--_G. W. A. Charles II._, 1683-4.

[61] Lacis, espèce d'ouvrage de fil ou de soie fait en forme de filet ou de réseuil dont les brins étaient entre-lacez les uns dans les autres.--_Dict. d'Ant. Furetière_, 1684.

[62] Béle Prerie contenant differentes sortes de lettres, etc., pour appliquer sur le réseuil ou lassis. Paris, 1601. See APPENDIX.

[63] So, in the Epistle to the Reader, in a Pattern-book for Cut-works (London, J. Wolfe & Edward White, 1591), the author writes of his designs:--

"All which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth forward; whereby with more ease they may be sewed and wrought in cloth, and keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey of the worke. And more, who desyreth to bring the work into a lesser forme, let them make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge them, and so may you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch, pouncing or pouldering upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to be understood that these squares serve not only for cut-workes, but alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching."--(See APPENDIX, No. 72).

[64] _Pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias Mignerak_, etc. Paris, 1605. See APPENDIX.

[65] The inventories of Charles de Bourbon, ob. 1613, with that of his wife, the Countess of Soissons, made after her death, 1644 (Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426), alone prove how much this _réseuil_ was in vogue for furniture during the seventeenth century.

"Item un pavilion de thoille de lin à bende de reseuil blang et noir faict par carel prisé, vi. l. t. (livres tournois).

"Item quatre pentes de ciel de cotton blanc à carreaux.

"Item trois pentes de ciel de thoille de lin à carreaux et raiseuil recouvert avec le dossier pareil estoffe, et petit carreau à point couppé garny de leur frange, le fonds du ciel de thoille de lin, trois custodes et une bonne grace et un drap pareille thoille de lin à bandes de reseuil recouvert ... prisé xviii. l. t."--_Inv. de Charles de Bourbon._

"Item une autre tapisserie de rezeuil de thoile blanche en huit pièces contenant ensemble vingt aulnes on environ sur deux aulnes trois quarts de haute.

"Item une autre tenture de tapisserie de rézeau tout de leine (lin) appliquée sur de la toille blanche en sept pièces contenant dix-huit aulnes de cours sur trois aulnes de haute.

"Item trois pantes, fonds de dossier, les deux fourreaux de piliers, la converture de parade, le tout en point couppé et toillé.

"Item, une garniture de lict blanc, faict par carré d'ouvrage de poinct couppé, le tout garny avec la couverte de parade, prisé la somme de soixante livres tournois."--_Inv. de la Comtesse de Soissons._

[66] Dated 20 Feb., 1587. Now in the Record Office, Edinburgh.

[67] 1781. "Dix-huit Pales de differentes grandeurs, tous de toile garnis tant de petite dentelle que de filet brodé."--_Inv. de l'Eglise de S. Gervais._ Arch. Nat. L.L. 654.

[68] _Point and Pillow Lace_, by A. M. S. (London, 1899).

[69] In the Record Office, Edinburgh.

[70] "Mache, the Masches (meshes) or holes of a net between the thread and thread" (Cotgrave).

[71] _Comptes de la Reine de Navarre_, 1577. Arch. Nat. K.K. 162.

[72] _Inventory of Catherine de Médicis_, Bonaffé.

[73] Randle Holme, in _The School Mistris Terms of Art for all her Ways of Sewing_, has "A Samcloth, vulgarly, a Samplar."

[74] In the Bock collection, part of which has since been bought for the Victoria and Albert Museum, are specimens of "rézeuil d'or," or network with patterns worked in with gold thread and coloured silks. Such were the richly-wrought "serviettes sur filez d'or" of Margaret of Austria.

"Autre servyette de Cabes (Cadiz) ouvrée d'or, d'argent sur fillez et bordée d'or et de gris.

"Autre serviette à Cabes de soye grise et verde à ouvrage de fillez bordée d'une tresse de verd et gris."--Inventory already quoted.

[75] "Le Gan," de Jean Godard, Parisien, 1588.

[76] Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery in the South Kensington Museum (p. 5).

[77] Lace. French, _dentelle_; German, _Spitzen_; Italian, _merletto_, _trina_; Genoa, _pizzo_; Spanish, _encaje_; Dutch, _kanten_.

[78] Statute 3 Edw. IV. c. iii.

[79] "Passement, a lace or lacing."--_Cotgrave_.

[80] Not in those of Rob. Estienne, 1549; Frère de l'Aval, 1549; or Nicot, 1606. Cotgrave has, "Dentelle, small edging (and indented), bone-lace, or needlework." In Dict. de l'Académie, 1694, we find, "Dentelle, sorte de passement à jour et à mailles tres fines ainsi nommé parceque les premières qu'on fit etoient dentelées."

[81] _Comptes de l'Argentier du Roi_, 1557.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 106. "Passement de fine soie noire dentelle d'un costé." "Passement blanc," "grise," also occur.

[82] _Argenterie de la Reine_, 1556.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 118.

[83] _Dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, soeur du Roi._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 10,394, fol. 62.

[84] "Plus de delivré une pacque de petite dentelle qui est estez cousu ensemble pour mettre sur les coutures des rideaux des ditz litz contenant 80 aunes."--Rec. Off., Edin. This custom of trimming the seams of bed-curtains with a lace indented on both sides was common throughout Europe. In the Chartley Inv. of Mary Stuart, 1586, one of the Vasquines (jackets) is described, "Autre de satin noir descouppée a descouppemie dentelés."

[85] 1577. "Pour deux aulnes de passement d'argent a hautte dantelle pour mettre à ung renvers, au pris de soixante solz l'aulne.

"Pour une aulne de dentelle pour faire deux cornettes pour servir à la dicte dame, quatre livres."--_Cptes. de la Reine de Navarre._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 162.

[86] See APPENDIX.

[87] "Petits et grands passements; id. à l'esguille; id. faict au mestier; id. de Flandres à poinctes; id. orangé à jour; id. de Flandres satiné;" with "reseuil, dantelles, grandes et petites, or, argent," etc.--_Inv. de Madame, soeur du Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 234.

So late as 1645, in the inventory of the church of St. Médard at Paris (Arch de l'Emp. L. L. 858), the word is used. We find, "Quatre tours de chaire de thoille baptiste, ung beau surplis pour le predicateur, six autres, cinq corporaulx," all "à grand passement." Also, "deux petits corporaulx à petit passement," and "trois tours de chaire garnyz de grand passement à dentelle."

[88] _Inv. apres le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de La Motte._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426.

[89] The French terms are more comprehensive:--

Champ, fond travaillé à jour.

Toilé, fleurs entièrement remplies, formant un tissu sans jour.

Grillé, grillage, plein. Also flowers--but distinguished from toilé by having little square spaces between the thread (_grillé_, grating), the work not being so compact.

"On appelle couleuvre, une blond dont le toilé continue serpente entre deux rangs de grillage."--_Roland de la Platière_ (the Girondin). Art. Dentelle, _Encyclopédie Méthodique_. Paris, 1780.

[90] _Storehouse of Armory and Blason._ 1688.

[91] "Brides--petits tissus de fil qui servent à joindre les fleurs les unes avec les autres dans l'espèce de dentelle qu'on appelle Point de France, de Venise, de Malines."--_Dict de l'Académie._

[92] "Une robe et tablier, garnis d'une dentelle d'Angleterre à picot."--_Inv. de decès de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,064.

[93] "Une chemisette de toile d'hollande garnye de point de Paris."--_Inv. d'Anne d'Escoubleau, Baronne de Sourdis, veuve de François de Simiane._ 1681. Arch. Nat. M. M. 802.

[94] "Cette dernière sorte de point se fait aux fuseaux."--_Dict. du P. Richelet._ Lyon. 1759.

[95] _Dict. d'Ant. Furetière._ Augmenté par M. Basnage. La Haye, 1727.

[96] 1656.

[97] 1651. "Huit aulnes de toile commune garnies de neige."--_Inv. des emubles de la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jésus, à Paris._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8621.

"Neuf autres petites nappes; les deux premières de toile unie; la troisième à dentelle quallifié de neige."--_Ibid._

[98] French, _dentelle à fuseaux_; Italian, _merli a piombini_; Dutch, _gespeldewerkte kant_; Old Flemish, _spelle werk_.

[99] French, _carreau_, _cousin_, _oreiller_; Italian, _tombolo_; Venice, _ballon_; Spanish, _mundillo_.

[100] See