Chapter I.

TOOLS.

Right here and now we want to say, =keep your tools sharp=. Many beginners are discouraged with the result of their work when the fault is entirely with the dullness of their tools. A dull tool cannot do good work no matter how skillful the workman may be. Therefore, we say again, keep all tools sharp all the time. With this in mind, let us see what tools are necessary for our purpose and how to sharpen, use and care for them.

THE SAW.

The saw comes first in use and perhaps in importance. There are several kinds, but you will need only one 24-inch rip saw, about 7 tooth (to an inch) for sawing with the grain; one 20-inch cross-cut saw, 10 tooth, for sawing across the grain; one 12-inch back saw, 12 tooth, for sawing a perfectly straight, narrow smooth cut (kerf); one 12-inch compass saw, 8 tooth, for sawing curves.

These saws are sharpened when you buy them and we do not advise you to attempt to file your saws until you have learned by practice how to do it properly. Have them sharpened by an expert, for while it is very simple it requires skill, acquired only from experience. Do not neglect it, however. A dull saw leaves a ragged edge and takes double effort.

If you desire to file your saws get an old one to practice on. It is not a difficult thing to learn, and while opinions differ as to just how the work should be done there are a few essentials which must be observed. The following is the result of long experience and careful study and will give satisfactory results:

You will need to purchase a saw vise (one with rubber in the jaws will prevent noise), also a slim 7-inch taper file for 7 and 8 tooth saws, 5-inch slim taper file for 10 and 12 tooth, and a fairly long, flat mill file for jointing; a saw set of any of the standard patterns, and then proceed as follows: Fasten the saw vise to something steady, clamp the saw in it, teeth up, take the steel square, or other straight edge and hold it with the edge along the teeth of the saw. If the teeth do not all just touch the edge of the square they are not of equal length and require what is called “jointing.” To do this take the flat mill file and lay it flat along the points of the teeth, filing as if to dull them until they are all equal in length, which you test with the square as before. The next step is to “set” the saw. This consists in bending the points of alternate teeth to right and left. This is done with the saw set. Have the salesman show you how to operate whatever kind you buy. The teeth should be bent only just enough to clear, do not set too deep, only the point should be bent, or half the tooth at most; set the tooth toward the side on which the point is; this will be every other tooth one way and alternate ones the other way; set one side first, then the other side. Your saw is now ready for filing. Select the size of file given above for the particular saw, commence at the butt (handle end) with the first tooth set away from you and file every alternate tooth. Keep the file level, that is, the handle and point at the same height when the saw is straight up on edge. You will notice that the teeth of your Cross-cut, Back and Compass saws are filed on an angle. This angle is entirely at the discretion of the owner. It is essential, however, that the bevel be filed on the front of the tooth. It will give very satisfactory results if you make it about 45 degrees. Keep the angle precisely the same on all the teeth. When you have filed the teeth on one side turn the saw around and file those on the other side. As to the shape of the teeth there is much difference of opinion, but until you have some reason to change keep it the same as when you bought the saw. Now take the saw out of the vise, lay it on a flat board and rub the sides of the teeth with the oil stone until they are perfectly even. To file the Rip saw proceed as above, except file straight across, not at an angle. File every tooth exactly the same size and shape and your saw will run true and easy.

THE USE OF THE SAW.

The use of the saw is constant and important. Saw true always, whether the results make any difference or not. In this way you will train your eye and hand. Do not saw without a mark. Use a hard pencil so as to make a narrow line. In all cases when joining mark with a knife or marking awl, remember that nearly always the sawed edge will have to be smoothed with the plane, and allow for this in such cases. Start your saw by a few short strokes, as it is likely to “jump” if you use too long a stroke before the cut is started. As soon as it is started use a full stroke. Do not saw in little jerks, but be careful not to pull the saw all the way out of the cut, as this will mar your work and may break the saw. Your Rip saw and your Cross-cut saw should be held at an angle of about 45 degrees. With the Compass saw, you will generally have to hold it straight through the board in order to follow the curve. The Back saw is used flat down on the work, though you may raise or lower the butt a little in starting. It will take practice to learn to saw “square,” that is, so the cut is at right angles with the surface of the plank. Most beginners are inclined to tip the butt of the saw away from them as the cut gets nearer to them. Be careful about this. It is necessary to bring the butt in as the cut gets nearer. Of course, this does not apply to the Back saw, as that cuts straight down. In this case be sure to start true to your mark and hold the saw exactly at right angles to the surface of your work so as to cut square.

A saw properly set and filed does not require grease to make it run smoothly but should be wiped off after using with an oily cloth to prevent rust.

THE PLANE.

The plane may be of wood or iron or a combination of the two. We recommend a No. 3 Bailey iron plane (block) for smoothing; a No. 5 Bailey iron plane (jack) for heavier cutting and jointing; a wooden plow ¼ inch; a wooden plow ½ inch; a wooden rabbet plane ¼ to ⅝ inch. If you care to spend the money a wood and iron jointer, not less than 24 inch long is also valuable, but with care you can do this work with your No. 5 jack plane. The dealer will also show you Stanley Nos. 45 and 55 planes. These are expensive, but very convenient, as they will take the place of the rabbet and plow, and will also cut mouldings, reeding, etc. Have the dealer show you how to take apart and put together whatever planes you buy.

TO SHARPEN PLANES.

To sharpen planes use the oil stone, and oil that will not gum. The jack and jointer have a cap iron on the blade; remove this and rub the bevelled side of the blade on the stone with either a spiral or figure eight motion. Some workmen hold the bevel flat on the stone, others prefer to raise the blade onto the edge a little so as to make a second bevel just at the sharp edge. This gives a stronger cutting edge. We prefer the latter method. Either way will turn up a feather edge on the other side, and to remove this turn the blade over on the flat or long side and rub it perfectly flat on the stone. Repeat the process until the edge is very sharp and perfectly smooth. Do not scratch your stone with the corner of the blade. Put your plane together again keeping the cap iron ¹⁄₃₂ to ¹⁄₁₆ of an inch back from the cutting edge.

TO USE THE PLANE.

To use the plane sight along the bottom and set the blade so it just shows. If you want to cut deeper you can set it deeper after trying it. Stand back of your plane, rather than over it, so you push it away from you instead of across in front of you. In this way you will cut truer and with less effort. Avoid a rocking motion. Hold the heel firmly down with the right hand and the front with the left hand. At the beginning of the stroke hold the front down squarely and at the end of the stroke ease up on the front and hold the heel down. When the plane runs off the end of the work at the end of the stroke, as you reach the end lift the front so that it does not drop over the end and make it low. Always plane square, whether it makes any difference or not, for the sake of habit.

CHISELS.

Chisels are of several kinds and lengths. For our use we prefer as most convenient one each ⅛, ¼ and ½ inch butt chisels (short blade). You will have little or no use for anything wider than ½ inch.

TO SHARPEN CHISELS.

To sharpen chisels proceed as with the plane blade, except hold the bevel flat on the stone. Do not raise on the edge at all, as this should be thin and very keen.

TO USE THE CHISEL.

To use the chisel keep the flat side towards the mark. For chisel work always mark with a knife. Always leave a margin next the line until the finishing cuts. If you cut right to the line in the beginning you are likely to mar the edge of your cut, and also in soft wood the bevel of the chisel forces it a little towards the flat side. When cutting across the grain hold the chisel very flat on the work or it will “dig in.”

THE MARKING GAUGE.

The marking gauge is made in several patterns. The simplest will do. In its use you need little instruction. Always tip it a little in the direction you are moving it. If held straight up it will try to follow the grain. Hold the guide firmly and flat against the work.

THE SCREW DRIVER.

The screw driver should be of the very best. For our work we recommend one each ⅛ and ¼ inch, fairly long.

Always bore holes for screws. The hole should be about two-thirds the diameter of the screw. Put a little soap on the screw and it will drive easier and be less likely to split your work. When it is nearly all the way in and begins to go harder loosen the screw driver after each turn by a little back twist and it will be less likely to slip out or mar the screw head.

THE BIT BRACE.

The bit brace should be of the ratchet pattern and rather small. Oil the working parts occasionally.

BITS.

Bits are of various patterns. For our work get one each ³⁄₃₂, ⅛ and ³⁄₁₆ inch gimlet bits; one each ¼, ⅜, ½, ⅝, ¾ and 1 inch auger bits and one counter sink.

The gimlet bits you will use principally for screw holes. Be careful not to bend them. The auger bits are for larger holes. When using them it is a good plan, if you intend to bore all the way through, to stop as soon as the worm is through and bore in from the other side. You are less likely in this way to raise the grain around the hole.

TO SHARPEN BITS.

To sharpen bits use a slip stone (a thin oil stone). Rub the sharpened edges on the inside keeping the angle the same as when new.

THE NAIL SET.

The nail set is a small steel punch, hollowed a little on the end. It is for sinking nail heads below the surface of the work. Always incline the nail set in the same direction as the nail so it will not slip off and mar your work.

THE HAMMER.

The hammer should be fairly light. Get one ball pein (round face) claw hammer, rather small; one riveting hammer (small). Use the claw hammer for all ordinary work and the riveting hammer for small brads and welding. Always hold a hammer by the end of the handle. It is balanced to be held so. Make the stroke from the elbow rather than the wrist. Never drive a nail with one or two single blows. It holds better when driven in several blows.

OIL STONES.

Oil stones are made of composition and of natural stone. The former is perhaps the better of the two. Clean off occasionally with kerosene to remove the steel and dried oil. Be careful not to scratch it. To true an oil stone when hollowed down in the middle fasten a piece of No. 1 sandpaper on a flat board, moisten it slightly and rub the face of the stone on it until true.

THE MALLET.

The mallet is for driving your chisel. Never use it on metal. Use the same stroke as with the hammer and always hold by the end of the handle.

THE TRY SQUARE.

The try square is extremely important. Have the dealer test it in a steel square before you buy it. It is for marking at right angles and for testing work. In use be sure to hold the thick end snugly against the work that is squared.

THE STEEL SQUARE.

The steel square is for larger work than the try square. It also has many uses which you will not require of it.

THE SLIDING T BEVEL.

The sliding T bevel is much like the try square except that it can be set at any angle and clamped with a thumb screw. You will use it for mitring, etc.

THE DIVIDERS.

The dividers are for marking circles or arcs and for dividing a given space into equal parts. Be careful not to make deep holes with them. Just enough to show is sufficient. Do not bend the points.

TWO-FOOT RULE.

Two-foot rule should be divided to sixteenths at least. Be careful not to mar it or your accuracy will suffer in consequence.