IV.

/The Vintage in the Champagne./

Period of the Champagne vintage--Vintagers summoned by beat of drum--Early morning the best time for plucking the grapes--Excitement in the neighbouring villages at vintage-time--Vintagers at work--Mules employed to convey the gathered grapes down the steeper slopes--The fruit carefully examined before being taken to the wine-press--Arrival of the grapes at the vendangeoir--They are subjected to three squeezes, and then to the 'rébêche'--The must is pumped into casks and left to ferment--Only a few of the vine-proprietors in the Champagne press their own grapes--The prices the grapes command--Air of jollity throughout the district during the vintage--Every one is interested in it, and profits by it--Vintagers' fête on St. Vincent's-day--Endless philandering between the sturdy sons of toil and the sunburnt daughters of labour 148