Part 2

Though much like Swiftcurrent Valley in topographical make-up, the Belly River district is much wilder and more heavily forested. It is accessible by trail only from Many Glacier over Ptarmigan Wall or from Waterton Lake over Indian Pass. These, with spur trails to Helen and Margaret Lakes, make up the principal trail system. The Glacier Park Saddle Horse Co. maintains a comfortable mountain camp on Crossley Lake, where food and lodging are available at reasonable rates. Fishing is good in the lakes of the Belly River country. The 33-mile trip from Many Glacier to Waterton is one of the finest to be taken in the park. Crossley Lake Camp is approximately midway.

The International Waterton Lake and the northern boundary line of Glacier National Park mutually bisect each other at right angles. Mount Cleveland rises 6,300 feet sheer above the head of the lake. Waterton Lake townsite, Alberta, is located at the foot. It is reached by highway from Glacier Park, Babb, Cardston, Lethbridge, Calgary, and points in the Canadian Rockies. The modern Prince of Wales Hotel, several other hostelries, cabin camps, garages, stores, and other conveniences are in the settlement. A 12-mile spur highway leads to Cameron Lake, another international body of water on whose northern (Canadian) shore is a fine example of a sphagnum bog. Another winding road leads to a colorful canyon known as "Red Rock."

A picturesque cut-off highway over aspen-covered foothills around the very base of majestic Chief Mountain, and beginning at a point 4 miles north of Babb, leads to Waterton Lakes Park in Canada.

Trails lead from the village to principal points of interest in the Canadian Park as well as up the west shore to the head of the lake at which are situated the Government ranger station and Goathaunt Camp. The head of the lake is more readily reached by the daily launch service from Waterton Village, or over trail from Many Glacier by Crossley Lake Camp, or by Granite Park and Flattop Mountain. A scenic trail leads to Rainbow Falls and up Olson Valley to Browns Pass, Bowman Lake, Hole-in-the-Wall Falls, Boulder Pass, and Kintla Lake in the northwest corner of the park. There are no hotel or camp accommodations at Bowman or Kintla Lakes.

[Illustration: _Grant photo._ HORSEBACK PARTY ON BOULDER PASS]

Game is varied and abundant at Waterton Lake. Moose are sometimes seen in the swampy lakes along Upper Waterton River. Later in the season, bull elk are heard bugling their challenge through the night. Deer are seen both at Waterton Lake Village and Goathaunt Camp. Sheep and goats live on neighboring slopes. One does not have to leave the trail to see evidence of the work of the beaver. The trail down Waterton Valley has had to be relocated from time to time, as these industrious workers flooded the right-of-way. A colony lives at the mouth of the creek opposite Goathaunt Camp. Otters have been seen in the lakes in the evening. Marten have bobbed up irregularly at the ranger station.

Bird life is abundant in this district, because of the variety of cover. Waterfowl are frequently seen on the lake. A pair of ospreys nest near the mouth of Olson Creek. Pine grosbeaks, warblers, vireos, kinglets, and smaller birds abound in the hawthorne and cottonwood trees, and in the alder thickets.

FLATTOP MOUNTAIN AND GRANITE PARK

Glacier Park has within its boundary two parallel mountain ranges. The eastern, or front range, extends from the Canadian boundary almost without a break to New Mexico. The western, or Livingston Range, rises at the head of Lake McDonald, becomes the front range beyond the international line, and runs northwestward to Alaska. Between these two ranges in the center of the park is a broad swell which carries the Continental Divide from one to the other. This is Flattop Mountain, whose groves of trees are open and parklike, wholly unlike the dense forests of the lowlands with which every park visitor is well acquainted.

A trail leads south from Waterton over Flattop to the tent camp called "Fifty Mountain" and to Granite Park, where a comfortable high-mountain chalet is located. Here is exposed a great mass of lava, which once welled up from the interior of the earth and spread over the region which was then the bottom of a sea. The chalets command a fine view of the majestic grouping of mountains around Logan Pass, of the noble summits of the Livingston Range, and of systems far to the south and west of the park. Extending in the near foreground are gentle slopes covered with sparse clumps of stunted vegetation. In early July open spaces are gold-carpeted with glacier lillies and bizarrely streaked with lingering snow patches. Beyond are the deep, heavy forests of Upper McDonald Valley.

The chalets may also be reached from Sun Camp and Logan Pass over a trail along the Garden Wall, from the highway 2 miles above the western switchback by a 4-mile trail, from Avalanche Camp and Lake McDonald over the McDonald Valley trail, and from Many Glacier by the beautiful trail over Swiftcurrent Pass. A short distance from the chalets a spur from the trail to the Waterton Lake leads to Ahern Pass, from which there is an unexcelled view of Ahern Glacier, Mount Merritt, Helen and Elizabeth Lakes, and the South Fork of the Belly River. This spur is only a mile from the chalets. At Fifty Mountain Camp, half-way between Granite Park and Waterton, a second spur, a quarter of a mile long, takes one above Flattop Mountain to the summit of the knife-edge. From here there is a fine panorama of Mount Cleveland, Sue Lake, and Middle Fork of Belly River.

A foot trail 1 mile long leads from the Granite Park chalet to the summit of Swiftcurrent Mountain upon which a fire lookout is located. For the small amount of effort required to make this ascent of 1,000 feet, no more liberal reward of mountain scenery could be possible. Another foot trail leads from the chalets to the rim of the Garden Wall, from which there are splendid views of Grinnell Glacier and the Swiftcurrent region.

Animal life is varied and easily studied at Granite Park. Bear and deer are common in this section. Mountain goats are frequently seen above Flattop Mountain or near Ahern Pass. Mountain sheep graze on the slopes of the Garden Wall. Ptarmigan should be looked for, especially above Swiftcurrent Pass.

Granite Park is a paradise for lovers of alpine flowers. On the Garden Wall, the connoisseur should seek for the rare, heavenly blue alpine columbine. Here are expanses of dryads, globe flowers, alpine firewood, and a wealth of others. Early July is the best time for floral beauty.

LOGAN PASS

Logan Pass lies between the headwaters of Logan and Reynolds Creeks. It crosses the Continental Divide and carries the Going-to-the-Sun Highway from Lake McDonald to Upper St. Mary Lake and the trail from Sun Camp to Granite Park.

Though there are no overnight stopping places on the pass, its accessibility by automobile makes it a starting place for several delightful walks, chiefly to Hidden Lake, which occupies a basin only recently evacuated by ice, and tiny Clements Glacier, which sends its water to both the Arctic and Pacific Oceans, and which has been termed "Museum Glacier" because it encompasses in its few hundred acres of surficial area all of the principal features of a major glacier.

Ranger-naturalist services, including short field trips, are available daily throughout summer on the pass.

AVALANCHE CAMP

Avalanche auto camp is located in a grove of cedars and cottonwoods on a picturesque flat at the mouth of Avalanche Creek. It is equipped with modern toilets, showers, and laundry, but has no stores or gasoline station. A Government ranger naturalist and a camp tender serve the camp, which is on Going-to-the-Sun Highway.

Near the upper end of the camp, Avalanche Creek has cut a deep, narrow gorge through brilliant red argillite. It is filled with potholes scoured out by stones swirled in the foaming torrent. Drooping hemlocks, festooned with goatsbeard lichen, keep the spot in cool, somber gloom even on the hottest midday. This gorge is the home of the water ouzel, which is often seen flying back and forth in the spray.

From the gorge, a self-guiding trail leads 2 miles to Avalanche Basin, a semicircular amphitheater with walls over 2,000 feet high over which plunge a half dozen snowy waterfalls. A dense forest and calm lake repose on the floor of the cirque. Fishing is good in the lake. The narrow canyon through which the trail leads from the camp offers fine views of Heaven's Peak, Mount Cannon, Bearhat Mountain, Gunsight Mountain with the cirque bearing Sperry Glacier, and the canyon in which Hidden Lake reposes. In the early season the walls of the basin and canyon are draped with countless waterfalls. The sides of Cannon and Bearhat offer one of the most opportune places for seeing mountain goats. In late season huckleberries are abundant.

A ranger naturalist conducts an entertainment every evening in the campfire circle in the auto camp.

LAKE MCDONALD

Lake McDonald is the largest lake in the park, being 10 miles long and a mile wide. Its shores are heavily forested with cedar, hemlock, white pine, and larch. At its head, impressive, rocky summits rise to elevations 6,000 feet above its waters. The Going-to-the-Sun Highway runs along its southeastern shore. Its outlet is 2 miles above Belton station.

Lake McDonald Hotel is on the highway near the upper end of the lake. It has a store for general supplies, a gasoline station, curio shop, and all modern conveniences. Its dining room, facing the lake, is one of the most appropriate and charming in the park. Its lobby is filled with well-mounted animals and birds of the region. It is the focal point for trails to Sperry Chalet and Gunsight Pass, Upper McDonald Valley, the summit of Mount Brown, and Arrow Lake. There is good fishing in Arrow and Snyder Lakes.

Private cabin camps are located at the head and foot of the lake. A general store and gasoline filling station are located at the foot of the lake. A well-equipped public auto campground is at Sprague Creek, near Lake McDonald Hotel.

Ranger-naturalist services are available at the hotel. Lectures on popular natural history are delivered each evening in the hotel lobby and at the Sprague Creek campfire circle. A cut wild-flower exhibit is also placed in the hotel. Self-guiding trails lead to Fish and Johns Lakes, short distances from the hotel.

SPERRY CHALETS

Sperry Chalets are located in a picturesque high-mountain cirque, with precipitous, highly colored Edwards, Gunsight, and Lincoln Peaks hemming it in on three sides. It is reached by trail only from Lake McDonald and from Sun Camp via Gunsight and Lincoln Passes.

Mountain climbing, exploring Sperry Glacier, fishing in nearby Lake Ellen Wilson, and meeting mountain goats are the chief diversions of this entrancing spot, located at timberline. During late afternoons goats are to be seen perched against the cirque walls. Practically every evening they start down for the chalets, to reach there after midnight and fill expectant visitors with joy. Besides these, deer, marmots, conies, and Clark nutcrackers and other wildlife are abundant.

BELTON

Belton, on the Great Northern Railway, is the entrance to the west side of the park. It has stores, hotel, chalet, and a cabin camp to accommodate the visitor.

[Illustration: _Hileman photo._ ROCKY MOUNTAIN GOAT]

WHAT TO DO AND SEE

FISHING

The waters of Glacier National Park abound in fish. All popular species of trout have been planted. They have thrived owing to the abundant natural fish foods and the nearly constant temperature of the waters the year around. Cutthroat, eastern brook, and rainbow, are the most abundant. Fly fishing is the greatest sport, but spinners and the ever-abundant grasshopper may be used successfully by those not skilled in the use of the fly. In the larger lakes a Mackinaw or Dolly Varden weighing 40 pounds is a possibility. All fishing must be in conformity with the park regulations.

[Illustration: _Hileman photo._ FISHING THE RAPIDS]

_Two Medicine Chalets._--Two Medicine Lake has become well known for its eastern brook and rainbow trout. Good fishing is also found in the Two Medicine River below Trick Falls. This lake and stream are probably better stocked than any in the park, because of the proximity to the hatchery at the eastern entrance.

_Cut Bank Chalets._--This camp is located on the banks of the North Fork of Cut Bank Creek, which may be fished both ways from the camp for a distance of from 3 to 5 miles. Cutthroat and eastern brook inhabit this section, and the fisherman who takes the center of the stream and fishes with skill is sure of a well-filled creel. The South Fork at Cut Bank Creek is a wild little stream, well stocked, but little known.

_St. Mary Chalets._--St. Mary Lake is the home of the Mackinaw trout, as well as cutthroat and rainbow trout. Numerous streams empty into this lake from which a goodly toll may be taken with fly or spinner. Red Eagle Lake, easily reached by trail from St. Mary Chalets, is one of the best fishing spots in the park. There is also good fishing in Red Eagle Creek.

_Going-to-the-Sun Chalets._--The lakes in Roes Creek Basin will furnish excellent sport. For the large Mackinaw trout the upper end of St. Mary Lake is a good place. Gunsight Lake, 9 miles distant, is well stocked with rainbow trout.

_Many Glacier Hotel._--Lake Sherburne contains pike, Lake Superior whitefish, and rainbow and cutthroat trout. Pike, and often a cutthroat, are readily taken with the troll. Swiftcurrent River affords good stream fishing for the fly caster. Swiftcurrent, Grinnell, Josephine, and Ptarmigan Lakes are famous for cutthroat, eastern brook, and rainbow trout. The small lakes along the Swiftcurrent Pass Trail abound in eastern brook and rainbow trout. Cracker Lake is always ready to fill the creel with a small black-spotted trout.

The North and South Forks of Kennedy Creek are excellent for fishing. Cutthroats are abundant in them and in Slide Lake. Lower Kennedy Lake on the South Fork abounds in grayling.

_Lake McDonald Hotel._--Fishing in Lake McDonald is good but there is unusually good trout fishing in Fish Lake (2 miles), Avalanche Lake (9 miles), Snyder Lake (5 miles), and Lincoln Lake (11 miles). Trout Lake (7 miles) and Arrow Lake (11 miles), as well as McDonald Creek, also furnish a good day's sport.

There is a good automobile road to within 3 miles of Avalanche Lake.

_Red Eagle Tent Camp._--Red Eagle Lake and Red Eagle Creek, both above and below the lake, abound in large cutthroat trout, some attaining the weight of 7 pounds.

_Crossley Lake Tent Camp._--Crossley and other lakes on the Middle Fork of the Belly River furnish excellent sport. Cutthroat and Mackinaw trout are found here. Large rainbow trout and grayling abound in Elizabeth Lake. In the Belly River proper, rainbow and cutthroat trout and grayling are plentiful.

_Goathaunt Tent Camp._--Large Mackinaw and cutthroat trout are found in Waterton Lake; eastern brook trout are numerous in Waterton River; Lake Francis on Olson Creek abounds in rainbow trout.

HIKING AND MOUNTAIN CLIMBING

The park is a paradise for hikers and mountain climbers. There are numerous places of interest near all hotels and chalets which can be visited by easy walks. Or trips can be made to occupy one or more days, stops being planned at various hostelries or camping sites en route.

Space does not permit giving detailed information regarding points of interest along the trails, but this can be secured from Elrod's Guidebook and the United States topographic map. Directional signs are posted at all trail junctions. There is not the slightest danger of hikers getting lost if they stay on the trails. It is safe to travel any of these trails alone. Unless wild animals in the park are molested or are protecting their young they never attack human beings.

Hikers should secure a topographic map of the park which shows all streams, lakes, glaciers, mountains, and other principal features in their proper positions. With a little practice it can be read easily. The official map can be purchased for 25 cents at the superintendent's office at Belton, the administration office at Glacier Park Station, the hotels, and all registration stations at the park entrances.

The trip should not be ruined by attempting too much. An average of 2 or 3 miles per hour is good hiking time in the rough park country. One thousand feet of climb per hour is satisfactory progress over average trails. In this rugged country hikes of 15 miles or more should be attempted only by those who are accustomed to long, hard trips. An attempt at mountain climbing or "stunts" should not be made alone unless one is thoroughly acquainted with the nature of Glacier's mountains and weather. Too often "stunts" result in serious body injuries, or even death, as well as much arduous work for rangers and others. Hikers should consult a ranger naturalist or information ranger before venturing on a hazardous, novel, or new undertaking. No one but an experienced mountaineer should attempt to spend a night in the open. Shelter cabins, for free use by parties overtaken by a storm, have been erected by the Government on Indian, Piegan, and Gunsight Passes. They are equipped with flagstone floors, stoves, and a limited supply of fuel wood. Mountain etiquette demands that they not be left in a disorderly state, that no more fuel be consumed than is absolutely necessary, and that their privileges and advantages not be abused.

Shelter is not available in some of the most beautiful sections of the park. To those who are sufficiently sturdy to pack blankets, cooking utensils, and provisions, and are sufficiently versed in woodcraft to take care of themselves overnight, Glacier presents wonderful opportunities. Provisions can be purchased at Glacier Park Station, Belton, and at any hotel or chalet in the park. For fire prevention, it is unlawful to build campfires (or fires of any kind) except at designated places. The location of these sites can be ascertained from park rangers. Unless one is an experienced mountaineer and thoroughly familiar with the park, it is unwise to go far from the regular trails alone. He should not scorn the services of a guide on such trips. _Above all, he should not attempt to hike across country from one trail to another._ The many sheer cliffs make this extremely dangerous.

If one is a veteran mountaineer and plans to climb peaks or explore trackless country, he should take the precaution to leave an outline of his plans at his hotel, chalet, or camp, giving especially the time he expects to return or reach his next stopping place.

At each ranger station, hotel, chalet, and permanent camp in the park will be found a "Hiker's Register" book. Everyone is urged for his own protection to make use of these registers, entering briefly his name, home address, time of departure, plans, and probability of taking side trips or of changing plans. The hotel clerk should be informed of these at the time of departure. If a ranger is not there, this information should be entered in the register which will be found near the door outside the building, so that when the ranger returns he can report it to the next station or to headquarters. These precautions are to protect the park visitor. In case of injury or loss, rangers will immediately investigate.

In planning hiking trips, the following should also be taken into consideration: At higher elevations one sunburns easily and painfully because of the rarity of the atmosphere and intense brightness of the sun. Hikers should include in their kits amber goggles and cold cream for glacier and high mountain trips.

Footwear is most important. A hike should not be started with shoes or boots that have not been thoroughly broken in. Because feet swell greatly on a long trip, hiking shoes should be at least a half size larger than street shoes. They need not be heavy, awkward shoes--in fact, light shoes are much easier on the feet. Most people are made uncomfortable by high-top boots or shoes which retard the circulation of the calves. Six-or eight-inch tops are sufficient. Soles should be flexible, preferably of some composition which is not slippery when wet. Crepe soles are excellent for mountain climbing and for fishing. Hobnailed shoes are necessary only for grassy slopes or cross-country work. Hungarian nails are much to be preferred to hobs, and only a light studding of soles and heels is most effective. White silk socks should be worn next to the feet, a pair of heavy wool (German) socks over them. Soaking the feet daily in salt or alum solution toughens them. On a hike the feet should be bathed in cold water whenever possible.

Hiking trips with ranger naturalists are described under that service. There are many interesting short side trips from all hotels, chalets, and camps. Short self-guiding trails upon which interesting objects of natural history are fittingly labeled have been established at the following places:

1. Around Swiftcurrent Lake (2-1/2 miles).

2. From Lake McDonald Hotel to Fish Lake (2 miles).

3. From Lake McDonald Hotel to Johns Lake (2 miles).

4. From Avalanche Campground to Avalanche Lake (2 miles).

Lunches may be ordered from hotels and chalets the night before a trip. If an early departure is planned, it should be so stated upon ordering the lunch.

POPULAR TRAILS

(Figures indicate altitude in feet above sea level)

Glacier Park Hotel (4,796) to Two Medicine Chalets (5,175) via Mount Henry Trail (7,500). Distance, 11 miles.

Two Medicine Chalets to Cut Bank Chalets (5,100) via Cut Bank Pass (7,600), 17-1/2 miles.

Cut Bank Chalets via Triple Divide Pass (7,400) and Triple Divide Peak (8,001) to Red Eagle Camp on Red Eagle Lake (4,702), 16 miles.

Red Eagle Camp to St. Mary Chalets (4,500), 9 miles.

The Many Falls Trail: Red Eagle Camp via the south shore of St. Mary Lake and Virginia Falls to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets (4,500), 11-1/2 miles.

The 2-day trip, St. Mary Chalets to Red Eagle Camp (7 miles) and thence over Many Falls Trail to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, is excellent.

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets via Sunrift Gorge (4,800), Siyeh (8,100), and Piegan (7,800) Passes to Many Glacier Hotel (4,861), 17-1/2 miles.

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets via Reynolds Creek, Preston Park, and Piegan Pass to Many Glacier Hotel, 19 miles.

Many Glacier Hotel to Granite Park Chalets (6,600) via Swiftcurrent Pass (7,176), 9 miles.

Granite Park Chalets to Lake McDonald Hotel (3,167) via McDonald Creek, 18 miles.

Granite Park Chalets (6,600) via Logan Pass (6,654) to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets (4,500), 18 miles.

Granite Park Chalets to the Going-to-the-Sun Highway (5,200) meeting it 2 miles above the switchback, 4 miles.

Granite Park Chalets to Goathaunt Camp at Waterton Lake (4,200) via Flattop Mountain (6,500), 20 miles. A short side trail leads to Ahern Pass, from which is obtained a splendid view of the valley of the South Fork of Belly River. Another from Flattop Mountain to the Summit of the Continental Divide overlooks Sue Lake and the Middle Fork of the Belly River. Fifty Mountain Camp is midway between Granite Park and Goathaunt Camp.

Goathaunt Camp to Browns Pass (6,450), Boulder Pass (8,200), and Hole-in-the-Wall Falls, 15 miles. One of the most scenic trips in the park. From Boulder Pass a trail leads to Kintla Lake; from Browns Pass a trail to Bowman Lake. A secondary road leads from Kintla to Bowman Lakes, 20 miles.

Goathaunt Camp via Indian Pass (7,400) to Crossley Lake Camp (4,855), 18 miles.

Crossley Lake Camp to Many Glacier Hotel (4,861) via the celebrated Ptarmigan Trail which includes a 183-foot tunnel through Ptarmigan Wall, 17 miles.

Lake McDonald Hotel to Avalanche Camp (3,400), 6-1/2 miles.