Chapter 3 of 4 · 3971 words · ~20 min read

Part 3

Avalanche Camp to Avalanche Lake (3,885), 2 miles.

Lake McDonald Hotel to Sperry Chalets (6,500), 6 miles. From Sperry Chalets to Sperry Glacier, 2-1/2 miles.

Sperry Chalets to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets (4,500) via Lincoln (7,000) and Gunsight (6,900) Passes, 13 miles.

SWIMMING

While it is possible for visitors to indulge in lake bathing, it will be found that the water of the lakes, usually just from the melting glaciers, is uncomfortably cold, and for this reason is not enjoyed except by the most hardy. Swimming pools and plunges with warmed water are provided at Glacier Park Hotel and Many Glacier Hotel.

CAMPING OUT

The traveler who is not in a hurry may camp out in the magnificent wilderness of the park, carrying equipment in his automobile and staying as long as he wishes in any of the free Government campgrounds, or he may carry his bed and provisions on his back. With a competent guide and a complete camping outfit the park visitor may set forth upon the trails to wander at will. On such trips one may venture far afield, explore glaciers, climb divides for extraordinary views, linger for the best fishing, or spend idle days in spots of inspirational beauty.

The Glacier Park Saddle Horse Co. provides excellent small sleeping tents and a complete outfitting of comforts for pack trips.

There are several important points to be remembered on such trips:

A Government topographic map should be procured and consulted frequently.

Extreme care should be taken about fires. No fire should be left even for a few minutes unless it is _entirely extinguished_. It should be _drenched completely with water_.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Glacier offers exceptional views to delight the photographer. While the scenic attractions are most commonly photographed, the animals, the flowers, and the picturesque Blackfeet Indians provide interesting subjects. Photographic laboratories are maintained at Many Glacier, Lake McDonald, and Glacier Park Hotels, and at Belton village. Expert information regarding exposures and settings is also available at these places.

PARK HIGHWAY SYSTEM

The Blackfeet Highway, lying along the east side of the park, is an improved highway, leading from Glacier Park Station to the Canadian line via Babb, Mont., and from the line to Waterton Lakes Park and other Canadian points via Cardston, Alberta. There is also an improved picturesque cut-off highway, which branches from this road at Kennedy Creek Junction, 4 miles north of Babb, leading around the base of Chief Mountain to Waterton Lakes Park. Improved highways lead from the Blackfeet Highway to Two Medicine Lake, the Cutbank Chalets, and Many Glacier Hotel on Swiftcurrent Lake.

The Theodore Roosevelt Highway (US 2) follows the southern boundary of the park from Glacier Park Station to Belton, a distance of 58 miles, and a trip over this highway affords views of excellent scenery.

The spectacular Going-to-the-Sun Highway, well known as one of the outstanding scenic roadways of the world, links the east and west sides of the park, crossing the Continental Divide through Logan Pass at an altitude of 6,654 feet, and connects with the Blackfeet Highway at St. Marys Junction, a distance of 51 miles from Belton. East of the divide an improved spur road leads to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets on famous St. Marys Lake. On the west side at Apgar, 2 miles above Belton, a narrow dirt road follows the north fork of the Flathead River to Bowman and Kintla Lakes.

HOW TO DRESS

As a rule tourists are inclined to carry too much. There are no unnecessary formalities and no need for formal clothes in Glacier Park, where guests are expected to relax from everyday affairs of living. An inexpensive and simple outfit is required--old clothes and stout shoes are the rule. These, together with toilet articles, can be wrapped into a compact bundle and put into a haversack or bag. For saddle trips, hiking, or idling, both men and women wear riding breeches for greater comfort and freedom. Golf knickers are also satisfactory. "Shorts", such as are worn by Boy Scouts, are not generally feasible in this park. Ordinary cotton khaki breeches will do, although woolen ones are preferable; lightweight woolen underwear and overshirt are advised because of rapid changes of temperature. A sweater or woolen mackinaw jacket, 1 or 2 pairs of cotton gloves, and a raincoat are generally serviceable. Waterproof slickers are furnished free with saddle horses.

Supplies and essential articles of clothing of good quality, including boots, shoes, leggings, socks, haversacks, shirts, slickers, blankets, camping equipment, and provisions, may be purchased at well-stocked commissaries at Glacier Park, Many Glacier, and Lake McDonald Hotels and at the camp store at Many Glacier campground. The Glacier Park Hotel Co., which operates these commissaries, also makes a practice of renting, at a nominal figure, riding outfits, mackinaw coats, and other overgarments. Stores carrying a similar general line of articles most useful in making park trips are located at Belton and at Glacier Park village. There is a store carrying provisions, cigars, tobacco, and fishermen's supplies at the foot of Lake McDonald.

ACCOMMODATIONS

The Glacier Park Hotel Co., under franchise from the Department of the Interior, operates the hotel and chalet system in the park and the Belton Chalets. This system includes the Glacier Park Hotel at Glacier Park Station, an imposing structure built of massive logs, nearly as long as the Capitol at Washington, accommodating 400 guests; the Many Glacier Hotel on Swiftcurrent Lake, accommodating over 500 guests; and the Lake McDonald Hotel on Lake McDonald, with capacity for 100 guests.

The chalet groups are from 10 to 18 miles apart, but within hiking distance of one another or of the hotels, and provide excellent accommodations for trail tourists. They are located at Two Medicine, Cutbank, St. Mary, Sun Camp, Granite Park, Sperry, and Belton. In addition to these, the Glacier Park Saddle Horse Co. maintains tent camps at Red Eagle Lake, Crossley Lake, Goathaunt, and Fifty Mountain.

There are also a few hotels and camps located on the west side, in or adjacent to the park, on private lands. The National Park Service exercises no control over their rates and operations. Private tourist cabins and hotels are operated outside the park at Glacier Park Station, Belton, St. Mary, Babb, and Browning Junction.

RATES

The Glacier Park, Many Glacier, and Lake McDonald Hotels are open from June 15 to September 15. The American-plan rates range from $6.50 a day for a room, without bath, to $14 a day for de luxe accommodations for one. Rooms may also be obtained on the European plan. Breakfast and lunch cost $1 each; dinner, $1.50. Children under 8 are charged half rates, and a discount of 10 percent is allowed for stays of a week or longer at any one hotel. Cabins are obtainable at Lake McDonald Hotel at a rate of $5 each, American plan, for 3 persons in 1 room; 2 persons in room, $5.50 each; 1 person, $6.50.

Chalets operated during 1937 will be open from June 15 to September 15, except Sperry and Granite Park, which will open July I and close September 1. Minimum rates are computed on a basis of $4.50 a day per person, special accommodations ranging as high as $7.50. A 10-percent discount is allowed for stays of a week or more at any one chalet group. Tent camp rates are $5 per day, per person, American plan.

[Illustration: _Hileman photo._ HOUSEKEEPING CABINS AT MANY GLACIER CAMPGROUNDS]

The Swiftcurrent auto cabins are located a little more than a mile from Many Glacier Hotel. Here a 2-room cabin for 1 or 2 persons costs $2.50 a day; 3 or 4 persons in a 3-room cabin, $4 a day. Blankets and linen may be rented by the day. The 10 percent discount given at the hotels and chalets also applies to the housekeeping cabins.

SADDLE-HORSE TRIPS

Glacier National Park has the distinction of being the foremost trail park. More saddle horses are used than in any other park or like recreational region in this country. The Glacier Park Saddle Horse Co. has available during the season about 800 saddle animals. There are nearly 900 miles of trails in this park.

At Glacier Park, Many Glacier, and Lake McDonald Hotels, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, and Goathaunt Tent Camp, horses may be engaged or released for trips in the park, including camping trips. At Two Medicine Chalets horses may be engaged or released for local rides only.

A wonderful 3-day excursion is afforded by the Logan Pass Triangle trip. This trip may be started at either the Many Glacier Hotel and Chalets or Going-to-the-Sun Chalets. Beginning at Many Glacier Hotel, the first day's route follows up Swiftcurrent Pass to Granite Park Chalets, where luncheon is served and the overnight stop made. The second day the Garden Wall Trail to Logan Pass is followed, with a box luncheon on the way, and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets is reached in late afternoon in time for dinner. The return to Many Glacier Hotel is made the third day via Piegan Pass, Grinnell Lake, and Josephine Lake.

The South Circle trip requires 5 days to complete and may be started either from Many Glacier, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, or Lake McDonald Hotel on Lake McDonald. Three of the principal passes are traversed--Swiftcurrent, Gunsight, and Piegan. The North Circle trip is also a 5-day tour via tent camps, crossing Swiftcurrent Pass, Indian Pass, and Ptarmigan Wall. The trip starts from Many Glacier Hotel, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, or Lake McDonald Hotel.

There is a 4-day inside trail trip from Glacier Park Hotel via Two Medicine, Cut Bank, and Red Eagle to Sun Camp.

Many delightful specially scheduled trips of 1 and 2 days' duration are also available.

Information about saddle-horse trips may be obtained at any of the hotels or other points of concentration. Practically any type of trip desired can be arranged, from short excursions to special points of interest, such as the half-day trip from Glacier Park Hotel to Forty-Mile Creek for $3.50, to pack trips of unlimited duration; the larger the party, the cheaper the rates. For minimum parties of 3 persons, the average rate for 1-day trips is $5 or $6. For parties of 3 or more, the all-expense Fifty Mountain Trail trip of 3 days is $28.50; the 5-day North Circle trip, $50.50. These are specifically mentioned merely to give an idea of the cost; many other fine trips are available at rates computed on a similar basis.

Special arrangements can be made for private camping parties making a trip of 10 days or more at rates amounting to $11 a day each for groups of 7 or more; $12 a day each for 6 persons; $13 for 5; $15 for 4; $16 for 3; $18 for 2; and $27 for 1 person. A guide and cook, are furnished for a party of one or more persons, and extra helpers are added, if the number of persons require it. Private trips of less than 10 days may also be arranged.

Experienced riders may rent horses for use on the floor of the valleys at $1 an hour, $3 for 4 hours, and $5 for 8 hours.

ALL-EXPENSE TOURS BY BUS

The Glacier Park Transport Co. and the Glacier Park Hotel Co. have jointly arranged some very attractive all-expense tours of 1, 2, 3, and 4 days' duration. These trips are priced reasonably and include auto fare, meals, and hotel lodgings. The trips begin at Glacier Park Station for west-bound passengers and at Belton for east-bound passengers and are made daily during the season.

[Illustration: _Grant photo._ RESTING AT THE SOUTH PORTAL OF THE TUNNEL ON PTARMIGAN WALL TRAIL]

_Trip No. 1._--Logan Pass Detour.--Glacier Park Hotel to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Lake McDonald Hotel, and Belton, Mont. Leave Glacier Park Hotel at 2:30 p.m.; arrive Belton the next day, 2:05 p.m. All-expense rate, $15.50.

_Trip No. 2._--Glacier Park Hotel to Many Glacier Hotel, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Lake McDonald Hotel, and Belton. Leave Glacier Park Hotel 2:30 p.m.; arrive Belton on third day, 2:05 p.m. All-expense rate, $27.75.

_Trip No. 3._--Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Lake, Many Glacier Hotel, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Lake McDonald, and Belton. Leave Glacier Park Hotel 2 p.m.; arrive Belton on fourth day, 2:05 p.m. All-expense rate, $38.

_Trip No. 4._--Same as Trip No. 3, except an extra day at Many Glacier Hotel, and the all-expense rate is $44.50.

All west-bound trips are scheduled to arrive at Belton at 2:05 p.m., in time for the Empire Builder, west. The trips east bound all begin at Belton and close at Glacier Park Station, in time for the Empire Builder, east. The rates for these trips are:

No. 1--$16.50 No. 2--$30.25 No. 3--$36.75 No. 4--$45.00.

All trips, both east and west, are routed over the spectacular Going-to-the-Sun Highway and Logan Pass.

TRANSPORTATION

The Glacier Park Transport Co. is operated in the park under franchise from the Department of the Interior. Daily stage service in each direction is maintained between Glacier Park Hotel and St. Mary Chalets, Many Glacier Hotel and Chalets, Waterton, and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Lake McDonald Hotel, and Belton Station. A daily bus trip is made from Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets on Two Medicine Lake, allowing sufficient time at the lake to fish or make the launch trip. Regular motorbus service is maintained between Glacier Park Hotel and Belton. On the west side daily bus service is maintained between Belton, the foot of Lake McDonald, and the Lake McDonald Hotel at the head of Lake McDonald, and between this hotel and Logan Pass on the Continental Divide.

The transportation company and launch companies allow each passenger to carry with him 25 pounds of hand baggage without extra charge, which is usually sufficient for shorter trips. Trunks are forwarded at extra expense. Arrangements can be made for caring for trunks left at entrances during tour of park or rechecking them for passengers who enter at one side and leave by the other. Storage charges on baggage at Glacier Park Station and at Belton are waived while tourists are making park trips.

LAUNCHES AND ROWBOATS

The Glacier Park Hotel Co. operates launch service on Waterton Lake between Goathaunt Camp in Glacier Park, and the Waterton Lake townsite in Alberta, Canada, crossing the international boundary line about half-way up the lake. One-way, the fare is 75 cents; round trip, $1.50.

Twilight launch rides on St. Mary and McDonald Lakes are featured during fair weather.

The J. W. Swanson Boat Co. operates launch service on beautiful Two Medicine Lake, at a charge of 75 cents each for four or more passengers. For a smaller number the minimum charge for the trip around the lake is $3. Trips around Josephine and Swiftcurrent Lakes may be made for $1 each. The Swanson Co. also rents rowboats for 50 cents an hour; $2.50 a day, or $15 a week for use on the following lakes: Two Medicine, St. Mary, Swiftcurrent, Josephine, and McDonald. Outboard motors may also be rented.

This booklet is issued once a year and the rates mentioned herein may have changed slightly since issuance, but the latest rates approved by the Secretary of the Interior are on file with the superintendent and the park operators.

ADMINISTRATION

The representative of the National Park Service in immediate charge of the park is the superintendent, E. T. Scoyen, Belton, Mont.

William H. Lindsay is United States commissioner for the park and holds court in all cases involving violations of park regulations.

NATURALIST SERVICE

A daily schedule of popular guided trips afield, all-day hikes, boat trips, campfire entertainments, and illustrated lectures is maintained at Many Glacier, Going-to-the-Sun, Two Medicine, Lake McDonald, Sprague Creek, and Avalanche Auto Campgrounds, the leading tourist centers. Naturalists who conduct local field trips and walks to nearby Hidden Lake and Clements Glacier are stationed at Logan Pass daily from 9 to 4.

A small museum dealing with popular local natural history subjects is maintained throughout July and August at Many Glacier Ranger Station. Cut-flower exhibits are installed at various hotels and chalets, and an exhibit of rock specimens is in the lobby of Many Glacier Hotel.

Requests from special parties desiring ranger naturalist assistance are given every consideration. All park visitors are urged to avail themselves of the services of the naturalists who are there to assist them in learning of the untold wonders that abound everywhere in the park. Acceptance of gratuities for this free service is strictly forbidden.

For complete information on naturalist schedules and types of service offered consult the free pamphlet, Ranger-Naturalist Service, Glacier National Park.

AUTOMOBILE CAMPGROUNDS

For the use of the motoring public a system of free automobile campgrounds has been developed on both sides of the park. On the east side, these camps are located at Two Medicine, Cutbank, Roes Creek, and Many Glacier. The west side camps are at Bowman Lake, Fish Creek, Avalanche Creek, and Lake McDonald. Pure water, firewood, cookstoves, and sanitary facilities are available, but campers must bring their own equipment.

POST OFFICES

The United States post offices are located at Glacier Park, Mont., Belton, Mont., Polebridge, Mont., and (during summer season) Lake McDonald, Mont., at Lake McDonald Hotel, and Apgar, at the foot of Lake McDonald. Mail for park visitors should include in the address the name of the stopping place as well as the post office.

MISCELLANEOUS

Telegraph and express service is available at all points of concentration.

Qualified nurses are in attendance at the hotels and both sides of the park, and there is a resident physician at Glacier Park Hotel.

THE PARK'S GEOLOGIC STORY

The mountains of Glacier National Park are made up of many layers of limestone and other rocks formed from sediments deposited under water. The rocks show ripple marks which were made by waves when the rock material was soft sand and mud. Raindrop impressions and sun cracks show that the mud from time to time was exposed to rains and the drying

## action of the air. These facts indicate that the area now known as

"Glacier National Park" was once covered by a shallow sea. At intervals muds were laid down which later became consolidated into rocks known as "shales" and "argillites." Limy or calcareous muds were changed into limestone. The geologist estimates that these depositions were made several hundred million years ago.

In the plains area east of the mountains are other lime and mud formations. These are younger and softer than the rocks which make up the mountains but were undoubtedly formed under much the same conditions. These contain much higher forms of life, such as fish and shells.

When originally laid down all these layers must have been nearly horizontal, just as they are deposited today in bodies of standing water all over the world. Then came a time when the sea slowly but permanently withdrew from the area by an uplift of the land, which since that time has been continuously above sea level. This uplift, one of the greatest in the history of the region, marks the beginning of a long period of erosion which has carved the mountains of Glacier National Park.

The geologist observes that the rock layers are no longer in the horizontal position in which they were laid down. There are folds in the rocks and many breaks or faults cutting across the layers. Furthermore, the oldest rocks in the region are found to be resting on the younger rocks of the adjacent plains. One of the best examples of this is to be seen at Chief Mountain where the ancient limestone rests directly on the young shale below (fig. 1). The same relationship is visible in Cutbank, St. Mary, and Swiftcurrent Valleys. In these areas, however, the exact contact is not always so easy to locate principally because of the debris of weathered rocks that have buried them. What has happened? How did this peculiar relationship come about? The answers to these questions unravel one of the grandest stories in earth history. Forces deep in the earth slowly gathered energy until finally the stress became so great that the rocky crust began to move.

The probable results of the movement in the crust of the earth are shown in the diagram (fig. 2). Section A represents a cross section of the Glacier Park region, as it most likely appeared, immediately following the long period of sedimentation. The rock strata are horizontal. Section B shows the same region after the rock layers have been slightly wrinkled due to the forces from the southwest, which, although slightly relieved by the bending, still persisted and the folds were greatly enlarged as shown in section C. At this stage the folds reached their breaking limit, and the strata broke in a number of places as indicated by dotted lines in the diagram. As a result of this fracturing, the rocks on the west side of the folds were pushed upward and over the rocks on the east, as shown in section D. The mountain rocks (represented by patterns of cross lines) were shoved over the rocks of the plains (represented in white), producing what is known as an "overthrust fault." It has been estimated that the rocks have moved a distance of at least 15 miles.

As the rocks were thrust northeastward and upward they made a greatly elevated region, but did not, however, at any time project into the air, as indicated in section D, because as the rocky mass was being uplifted, streams were wearing it away and cutting deep canyons in its upland portion. The rocks of the mountains, owing to their resistant character, are not worn away as rapidly as the plains formations with the result that great thicknesses of limestone and argillite tower above the plains. Where the older, more massive strata overlie the soft rocks the mountains are terminated by precipitous walls as shown in section E. This explains the absence of foothills that is so conspicuous a feature of this mountain front and one in which it differs from most other ranges.

While the region now known as "Glacier National Park" was being uplifted and faulted, the streams were continually at work. The sand and other abrasive material being swept along on the beds of the streams slowly wore away much of the rock. The uplifting gave the streams life and they consequently cut deep valleys into the mountain area. They cut farther and farther back into the mountain mass until they dissected it, leaving instead of an upland plateau a region of ridges and sharp peaks. This erosional process which has carved the mountains of Glacier Park has produced most of the mountains of the world.

Following their early erosional history, there came a period of much colder climate during which time heavy snows fell and large ice fields were formed throughout the mountain region. At the same time huge continental ice sheets formed in Canada and also in northern Europe. This period, during which glaciers, sometimes over a mile thick, covered many parts of the world including all of Canada and New England and much of North Central United States, is known as the "Ice Age." Such a tremendous covering of ice had an enduring and pronounced effect upon the relief of the country.

[Illustration: Figure 1.--_Sketch showing structure of Chief Mountain. The ancient limestone above is not appreciably altered, but the lower

## part is broken up by many oblique thrust faults. The entire mountain

is composed of ancient rocks and rests on shale of a very much younger age. After Bailey Willis._]

[Illustration: Figure 2.--_The Lewis overthrust. Diagram illustrating how pressure from the northwest affected the rocks of the Glacier Park region._]

[Illustration: Figure 3.--_A, An irregular V-shaped valley produced by stream erosion; B, the same valley after it has been occupied by a glacier. Note the smooth topography and U-shaped form._]