Part 5

At daylight, the 22d, we arose, and got rid of some of those intolerable pests, pulgas or fleas (with which we were covered), by taking off and shaking our jackets: we then each took a roasted potato, saddled our horses, and mounted. The ground was frozen very hard, and the air exceedingly cold. We had not gone far when my horse showed symptoms of weakness, or disinclination to proceed, which obliged us to go a considerable distance out of the way, to a cacique known to our guide, to procure another. We had not only to go out of our way, but down a very steep mountain, the horses sliding the greatest part of the way on their haunches, when we came to a beautiful valley, rendered still more lovely by the splendid beams of the newly risen sun. Here, by the side of the river, were scattered a few huts or ranchos, out of one of which came the cacique, who hailed us with that friendly phrase, “Mai, mai,” which we obsequiously returned. Our guide told him the nature of our expedition, and the cause of our visit, when he immediately introduced us to the inmates of his dwelling (all women, the caciques being allowed a plurality of wives). He despatched his peons or servants for a horse, while we sat by the fire smoking pajitas, or eating roasted potatoes, occasionally making ourselves understood by the women, to whom we offered some snuff, which, from having been wet, was become caked: this they readily accepted, and were about to put it into “_the general receptacle_,” when I stopped them, and made them understand that it was not to be eaten, by taking a pinch myself. They followed my example, but in a most strange manner, by forcing it up their nostrils, and laughing hideously at the ridiculous use thus made of their “smelling _apparatus_.” Being gratified with the pleasing excitement this pungent powder produced, they begged me to put some in a paper for them: this I was most happy to do, as it was the first opportunity we had (even in this small way) of showing our gratitude for the many and great kindnesses we had received. My horse being brought and saddled, we mounted, leaving directions for the disposal of the fagged horse. We then purchased a goose, which we gave in charge to the guide, lighted our pajitas, and took leave. We ascended this steep mountain in a manner more like going up stairs than any thing else I can compare it to, the heavy rains having given it the appearance of steps; the only support to the horses’ feet being the roots of trees, which intersected the path, and made a tolerably firm footing: we laid down on our horses’ necks to escape being dragged off by the Arcania shrubs, which formed a canopy over our heads. These are chiefly evergreens, some having beautiful flowers. We particularly noticed a large crimson bell-shaped flower, growing as a parasitical shrub, which covered the tops of the tallest trees, and striking the eye of the inexperienced traveller with its incomparable beauty. About eleven we arrived at Arauco, the frontier town of Chili, which is situated twenty leagues south of Concepçion, on the extremity of an extensive marsh, about six leagues in length, bounded on one side by the Pacific Ocean, and on the other by hills, backed by the Cordilleras. This town (which formerly was nothing more than an Indian pueblo, till the Chilinos, by incessant warfare and stratagem, subdued the Indians, and advanced thus far into their territory,) is garrisoned by a few Chilino troops, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Señor Don Geronimo José Valenzuela, who was at this time at Concepçion. As soon as we entered the town, the knowledge of our arrival having reached the second in command, Major Don José Sylva, he ran to us, and embraced us as officers in distress, and took us to his quarters, and introduced us to five or six officers, to whom, with himself, we shall ever be indebted for the most Castilian-like kindness and hospitality, which, if I were not an Englishman, I ought to say could not be surpassed. With these gentlemen we dined: they informed us that they would immediately despatch the brother of our guide, Don Bernardino Hermosillo, a captain in their militia cavalry, with a party of twelve men, to guard the wreck at Molquilla; at the same time telling us that their reason for sending so small a number was, because the Indians, so far south as the place where the ship had been wrecked, had acknowledged the government of Chili, and were at present assisting them, or rather themselves, by carrying on an interminable and murderous warfare with the tribes who were disaffected towards the government: the small force they were about to send was merely to act as scouts, to make known the position of the hostile, and to prevent treachery on the part of the friendly tribes, the place of the shipwreck being on the extreme verge where they acknowledged the government of Chili, and where their desperate battles are fought. We took this opportunity of informing Captain Seymour how far we had advanced on our journey; and Major Don José Sylva availed himself of our going to Concepçion for communicating to their government what he had done for the protection of the wreck.

At 2 P.M. we bade a reluctant adieu to these hospitable fellows, deeply impressed with a sense of their kindness and our obligation. We rode along the marsh, observing here and there a rancho, with a spot of cultivated ground, till we arrived at a cluster of ranchos (scarcely deserving the name of a pueblo) about three miles from Lianco, called Caremfranque, after the river which runs near it. Here we were introduced to the family of our guide, who all ran and embraced their parent with affection, and heard from him all the

## particulars connected with us. Fresh horses were brought by one of the

peons, whilst our guide changed his dress and put on a better poncho. It has already been observed, that this part of the habiliment tends to point out the station of life of him who wears it: it is due to our guide to make known that his was a _very good_ one, confirming his respectability and the good character given of his honesty by the officers at Arauco: we can only add that, with the essential service of guiding us to the consul (which we trust will be the foundation of relief to the shipwrecked crew), he has shown us the most christian-like kindness and attention, entitling him to the friendly appellation of “old Camilo,” instead of “our guide.” Taking leave of his kind family, we crossed the river Cacampuqune and came to a few scattered ranchos, named, after an old Spanish fort in its vicinity, “Fuerte viejo Colerico.” Here we were introduced to a Chilian señorita, a pretty brunette, gaudily dressed, and informed by “old Camilo” that we should stop at her house for the night, and, by starting the next morning early, should most probably reach Concepçion in good time, as we were only ten leagues from it. Gratified by this pleasing information, we dismounted, and after begging pardon for our dirty appearance, supper was ordered by “old Camilo:” it was soon prepared, and served up in the Chilian style by our industrious hostess, who, of course, supped with us. During conversation, she told us that there were some Englishmen in the village, and sent for them: they soon made their appearance, and in the course of conversation we discovered them to be North Americans. They made us a present of a dirty pipe and a small quantity of tobacco, which they called real Virginia: this was no treat, as we preferred the pajitas made with mild tobacco, wrapped in the Indian corn-leaf, and presented by our charming hostess, who was an adept in making them. After enjoying our aquaediente and pajitas, we retired to bed and slept soundly; and arose much refreshed at daylight on the 23d. We were delayed until seven o’clock for the horses; and if the nature of our mission had not been so important, we might have said the loss of time was not to be regretted, as our kind hostess was busily engaged in supplying us with maté. At 7 we took leave, promising to call on our way back. We hurried over a high hill or mountain called the “Luro di Villagu,” and by the Indians “Muguana”--(this being the place where they defeated the Spaniards and gained their independence)--then over a plain of six leagues and upwards in length, with here and there a cultivated spot, and many lakes covered with water-fowl. We arrived at the pueblo of San Pedro, on the southern side of the Bio-bio, immediately opposite Concepçion.

Here “old Camilo’s” attention was called to the means of conveying us across the river, while we stopped at the house of an old dame to whom he introduced us: she kindly brought us water, and we washed, leaving our linen to undergo the same process, as we were covered with fleas. Camilo returned, and told us the launch would not be ready for some hours, and recommended our taking breakfast, which we were too happy to agree to: we sat down and made a hearty meal.

About 2 o’clock we embarked in a flat-bottomed oblong launch, with nearly a dozen passengers, two bullocks, four horses, six pigs, and several sacks of wheat. This conveyance was kept under command, against a strong current, by an immense oar which answered the purpose of a rudder. A man was stationed at each end of the launch with a long pole, which, on first starting, was made use of a little, but when in deep water she was merely kept end on to the current by means of the rudder, until we approached the shallow water on the northern side, which covers an extensive flat of sand. On grounding, the horses, bullocks, and pigs disembarked, and the launch being again afloat, was, by the assistance of the poles, shoved some distance over the flat, but still a considerable way from the beach. We disembarked, by mounting our horses from the launch, and entered the city of Concepçion (situated on the Bio-bio), which we found in a state of complete ruin, not a single building standing, and the inhabitants living in tents or wooden houses, which some of the more opulent had been able to erect, as temporary residences. We learned that it had been destroyed by an earthquake, on the 20th of February last: the fatal shock which produced this devastation was felt at mid-day, without giving the slightest warning, when every house and public building fell; and it appears miraculous that only a hundred lives were lost. The port of Talcahuana felt the shock with equal severity. The sea is reported to have risen upwards of fifty feet immediately after the earthquake, breaking up on the ruins, inundating the flat on which the town was situated, and sweeping every thing before it, barely giving the inhabitants time to effect their escape to the hills.

About half-past 3 P.M., in one of these temporary wooden houses, we found H. W. Rouse, Esq., His Majesty’s Consul; and I need not say how happy we were to introduce ourselves to him, and deliver the Captain’s letter. From our shabby dress and dirty appearance, he for a moment eyed us with suspicion; but having opened the letter, his countenance assumed an expression of benevolence and pity. He shook hands with us, called for wine and water; and we immediately saw in him all those characteristics which endear us to one another. He then left us to consult the Intendenté, and deliver the letter we brought from the officers at Arauco: he did not return till 6, when we dined; and the circumstances attending the wreck formed the subject of our conversation, as Captain Seymour’s letter put him only in possession of the bare fact. At 11 we each took a tepid bath, and “turned in” to comfortable beds, the Consul having previously left us to pay his last visit to a dying native, and did not return till 4 in the morning, when he awoke me, and related a few particulars connected with his visit, and the customs of the people in such a case. This story was not at all calculated to strengthen the nerves of a person whose whole system had recently been severely shaken, nor calculated to prepare him for the shock of an earthquake which at this moment threatened destruction. This shock roused me; under the influence of great alarm, I jumped out of bed, and was about to escape from the house, when the Consul called out, “It’s over!” and I returned to my bed, but too much frightened to expect more sleep. The Consul told us they had been visited with shocks, more or less severe, ever since the great earthquake, which amongst the natives appears to mark an epoch, as in conversation they date every thing so many days before or after “the earthquake.” The 24th and 25th were employed in busily writing with the Consul, who determined on accompanying us to the wreck; and requested our whole assistance in preparing despatches for the Consul-general at Santiago, and other persons likely to be the means of affording relief to the unfortunate crew. I need not say that our undivided attention to this and other services was commanded by this gentleman, in order to expedite our return to the wreck, which was his most anxious desire, his whole head and soul being in the hope of relieving or rendering assistance to his distressed countrymen, fully aware that even if they had all succeeded in reaching the shore in safety, there was great danger to be apprehended of an attack by the Indians, should they come upon them by surprise, or if they had not been able to save the means of defence against that vindictive race of savages, who on former disasters had plundered the unfortunate crews of four vessels wrecked upon their coast, and who were more particularly to be feared at this season of the year, as that intoxicating drink chichi is plentiful; and when excited by this beverage they make desperate attacks on horseback, armed with spears of bamboo from twenty to thirty feet in length, and are not an enemy to be trifled with.

_May 26._--The despatches, having been completed at a late hour last night, were sent off this morning at 4 o’clock by an extraordinary courier, who was to be rewarded for his services according to his expedition: if he reached Santiago in seven days, he was to have forty-five dollars, but if in less time, five dollars more for every day less than seven, and decreased in the same proportion for every day more than seven. We were, until five in the afternoon, engaged in preparing for our journey to the wreck, purchasing presents to conciliate the Indians, indigo and other articles to traffic with them, and hiring mules, horses, and servants, to take charge of and guard the numerous things the Consul thought might be of service to the crew, whom he supposed might be destitute. We left Concepçion at half-past five, and rode to the bank of the river, intending to cross and sleep at San Pedro that night; but to our disappointment the launch had gone over, and we were obliged to return to the Consul’s house, where we dined and retired early, purposing to start at daybreak next morning.

_Wednesday, 27._--Arose, took an early breakfast, and crossed the river. We were delayed at San Pedro till 2 P.M. in arranging loads for the mules, hiring horses, &c.; at sunset had only reached the extreme end of the plain before described.

We stopped at the house of a gentleman well known to the Consul, but who at this time was at Santiago. His major-domo, however, offered the use of the house to the Consul, which he declined accepting, or putting him to any trouble more than to prepare a supper, and allow us to arrange our beds inside the corridor. We made a hearty supper; Camilo messing with us, and treated as a valuable friend by the Consul, who placed every confidence in his honesty, and, from his better knowledge of the country people and Indians, intrusted to him the entire arrangement of the journey. After supper, in the course of conversation, it was agreed that Mr. Lane and Camilo should precede us with letters to Captain Seymour and the commandant of Arauco, acquainting them with our proceedings. The letters were written, and we retired to rest.

At daylight, on the 28th, Mr. Lane and Camilo set out, the former to be guided by Camilo’s son, Antonio. The Consul and myself proceeded at 9 on our journey, but found some difficulty in getting the mules on, the rains having rendered the roads almost impassable, the mules constantly falling, and requiring to be relieved of their burdens. Came to Colcura; and, in passing through Fuerte Viejo, I waved my hand to the pretty brunette; and, about 9, after a long and tedious journey, came to the Rio Carampanque, which we crossed about 10 o’clock; arrived at Camilo’s house, where we supped on roasted turkey, cascuella, and the roasted seeds of the Araucano pine; enjoyed our pipes, and retired to rest.

_Friday, 29._--In no hurry to rise this morning: breakfasted at 10, and occupied three hours in loading the mules and hiring horses and additional mules for the conveyance of the shipwrecked crew. At 2 in the afternoon we took leave of Camilo’s family, and proceeded towards Arauco, where we arrived about 3; and dined with the Commandant Valenzuela, and the officers who were so kind to us on our way up. After dinner, a meeting of the friendly caciques was held at this gentleman’s house; when, through the means of an interpreter, they intimated to the Consul and Commandant their friendly disposition towards the shipwrecked crew, and their readiness to assist them. The Consul presented each of them with a jacket, some indigo, tobacco, and Jew’s harps, together with some trinkets for their wives. The Commandant having made up his mind to accompany us to the wreck, we started at 5 o’clock, and about sunset came to a few ranchos on the top of a hill, called Mitmessin: here we supped, and retired to bed; but passed a miserable night, in consequence of its blowing a gale from the northward, and the rancho being neither wind nor water tight.

_Saturday, 30._--Arose and breakfasted; it still blowing hard, and raining heavily: our anxiety greatly increasing for the safety of the crew. At 10 took leave of our friends, and arrived at the Indian pueblo of Albarado at 11, and went to the rancho at which we slept on our way up. Here we found the people celebrating a festival--singing and dancing in a frightfully savage manner, all more or less intoxicated with chichi. They would not allow us to proceed until we acknowledged our friendship by partaking of some of their chichi. We then lit our pajitas, and, about 3, crossed the river, which we found running very rapidly, the current being increased by the heavy rains. I stopped a few minutes at the house of Camilo’s major-domo: the inmates welcomed my return; but I was obliged to hurry my visit, and rejoin the party. We arrived at Lumaco at 6, having passed the troop of mules, which were to remain at the major-domo’s house should night overtake them. We dismounted perfectly drenched, it having rained incessantly during the day, dried our clothes by the fire, supped, and retired to rest, with the consolation that we were only a short day’s journey from the wreck.

Arose at daybreak, it still blowing and raining; waited till 10 for the mules, when they arrived. The servants having breakfasted, at half-past 11 we mounted, and at 2 came to the Rio Leubu, which we crossed in a much better conveyance than we did in our way up; the Consul having brought a large batsa, and a man to manage it, in the hope of assisting the shipwrecked crew in transporting parties and baggage across the rivers. The Consul, Camilo, and myself having crossed, we hurried on our way to the wreck, leaving the mules to follow.

About 5 we arrived; and I introduced the Captain to the Consul, who presented the Commandant, and was gratified by the kind welcome of my shipmates and fellow-sufferers, who hailed us as the harbingers of their deliverance from the wretchedness and privations they had endured; and those only who have been placed in similar circumstances can imagine the delightful feelings produced by such a meeting: having left them surrounded by danger, and now finding them encamped in comparative safety on a mound of sand about 200 yards from the unfortunate ship.

_Monday, June 1._--Wind light from the north. Several pieces of the ship’s bottom were picked up on the beach. The officers sent to examine the entrance of the Rio Leubu returned, bringing a favourable report on the objects in view. The Consul, with the governor, being convinced of the absolute necessity of instantly removing from our present encampment, the Captain and officers met in the presence of the Consul, for the purpose of drawing up a statement of the reasons which caused such a course (of abandoning the wreck) imperative. The opinion of all on this subject was unanimous.

The nature of the resolutions at this meeting will be understood by a perusal of them; they are signed by each person then present, and were prepared as a public document for the information of the Admiralty, if called for. Captain Seymour, feeling it his duty to protect the wreck as long as circumstances would permit, in order that a communication might be made to the senior officers for his decision on the case, also addressed a letter, through the Consul, to the governor of Arauco, requesting his authority, with a force from him to guard it from the inroads of the Indians, until the pleasure of the Commodore could be received. The reply to this request from the governor states his inability, from various insurmountable difficulties, to give the assistance asked for.

The decision of moving to the entrance of the Rio Leubu drew the attention of all to the necessary preparations. The crew were, therefore, variously employed in packing provisions for carriage on mules, a number of which, with many horses, had followed or accompanied the governor of Arauco. The sail-makers were employed in making small tents of a transportable size, the carpenters fitting poles for them; and spars were prepared to form sledges for the conveyance of heavy articles and casks, to be drawn by oxen, which we hoped, through the interference of the governor and the friendly caciques, to have driven down to our encampment for that purpose.

The officers examined into the state of the men’s clothing, and gave directions for every thing to be packed ready for a moment’s warning; and they were allowed to furnish themselves with bags, where wanted, out of certain sails, or canvass appropriated to that purpose. The crew, as well as the officers, being much distressed for shoes, the hides of the bullocks which we had been furnished with were carefully portioned out in pieces of a size to make moccassins, which, being laced on tight to the foot, soon assumed a form, and proved a convenient and excellent substitute in so important a want; and, during the latter part of our sojourn on the shores of Chili, were used almost universally.