Part 7

The morning after our first detachment had reached the banks of the Rio Leubu, one of the boys, furnished with a tin pot, sought out a spring of fresh water, which ran at the foot of the slope on which we were entrenching ourselves, for the purpose of drinking. An Indian rode up, and earnestly supplicated, by signs, his desire to drink. The boy handed the tin to him, which he no sooner got possession of, than he turned his horse, galloped off, and, swimming the river, was soon lost sight of amongst the opposite hills. At Molquilla, many articles thrown from the wreck, when washed on shore, were taken off the beach, under the ponchos of the Indians. The cunning mode in which they loaded themselves was very characteristic: they were seen to get off their horses, and lay down by the side of the longed-for object, which they gradually gathered up under their ponchos, and secured possession of by mounting their horses and galloping off to the hills.

_Wednesday, June 10._--Fair quiet weather: the crew employed in strengthening our barricade, draining the camp, cutting wood, and drying their beds and clothing. The damp from the ground in our tents was very great, and some few complaints of rheumatism were heard. At 6 30′ A.M. we had a very severe shock of an earthquake. We saw but few Indians at our present camp, as compared with the numbers who used to surround us at Molquilla. As duty permitted, the officers were allowed to go out with their guns, by which we benefited in a supply of game for our mess, which was highly acceptable; and the important objects of a diversion of mind and health were gained by exercise over the surrounding country. We began to feel uneasy at not hearing, from some quarter, of a chance of relief; but we had been told by our friend Mr. Rouse, the Consul, on his first joining us, that we ought to make up our minds to pass the winter where we were, knowing the impassable state of the country at this season of the year lying between us and Concepçion, as well as Santiago; and hence a difficulty of communication with those to whom we might look for succour. At noon, a party of officers crossed the river in a balsa, which had been brought by the consul, with the hope of its being useful to us. They shot over the country north of us with tolerable success. Amongst the occupations for the crew, was the construction of a pier or wharf at the entrance of the river, by filling up the space between some scattered rocks; and intended to facilitate our embarkation, whenever that wished-for event might occur. The look-out hill was kept constantly occupied, and reports made regularly from it by the midshipmen stationed there. The mice continued most troublesome: the little bread we had left decreased every night from their visits, as well as our supply of sugar and peas; nor did the tents or clothing escape. It was difficult to get sleep at night in consequence of their rambles. No plan could prevent their getting into our beds, not even when raised on stakes, or in a cot slung off the ground. Their feet were formed like a lizard’s, and enabled them to climb in all directions, and along the smallest line or bough of a tree. Covered mole buttons seemed greatly to attract them, and one night would suffice them to run off with any number. In our inquiries of the natives, and others around us, as to the cause of such myriads of mice, we were told that the Indians supposed it originated from the effects of the late earthquake; having a tradition of a similar result on a former convulsion of the earth. Our supplies of potatoes and poultry were become scanty, from having consumed all that the immediate neighbourhood could furnish; it was become necessary to send to a distance for what could be collected. Don Bernardino procured for us two bullocks. The produce of our guns often formed a large part of our dinner: we were quite safe from want, having a good supply of salt beef and pork; our bread was, however, almost consumed, and we could only serve out to all one quarter of the daily allowance (a quarter of a pound). This shortly failed us, and potatoes became the substitute.

_June 12._--The wind southerly, and fine weather. The crew airing clothing and beds, completing our pier, cutting wood for the cooks, and clearing the camp. A party of the officers shot over the country surrounding us, to the southward, with tolerable success; bringing in several partridges, snipes, and a few widgeons. At 5 P.M. the captain received, by way of Arauco, through the governor there, a letter from Lieutenant Collins, stating his inability to procure any vessel to come to our relief, and his intention to take an opportunity of returning with his guide to rejoin us at the Leubu, as he could get no intelligence whatever relative to the movements of any man-of-war on the coast. This was disheartening; but, as letters had been despatched to Santiago, we hoped, through the medium of the Chilian government, soon to have some satisfactory communication. Towards evening, after the usual muster of the arms had been gone through, a tolerably successful haul of the seine was got.

_June 13._--The morning cloudy, the wind northerly; the tents very damp: a few small fires were lighted in, and at the entrance of, some of them, to endeavour to dry them. The caciques Cheuquante and Rafael Lobo paid us a visit to see what they could get from us, bringing an offering of some avellanos, which was their usual _bait_. They gave us the account of Pinoleo having killed the wife we saw at Molquilla. We this day received the two boat cannonades, which we had dismounted, and put in charge of some of the Chilino party, to be dragged over to us by four bullocks: they were now mounted one at each end of our encampment. The crew variously employed, cutting wood and stacking it on the flag-staff hill for signal-fires, and about the barricade round the camp. A small vessel was this day seen, from the hill, in the offing, passing to the southward. The weather, towards night, became dark and threatening, and the wind fresh in gusts from the northward.

_June 14._--Strong winds from the northward, with heavy rain, which continued throughout the day, wetting the tents very much and causing excessive damp. The people employed in endeavouring to make better shelter for themselves. At 5 P.M. less rain, but moist and foggy: a good deal of surf falling into the bay below us outside the river. In the evening, mustered as usual. The weather cleared towards night, but continued to threaten more rain.

_June 15._--Heavy rain during the night; wind about N.N.W., 8 A.M. The weather clearing, the Captain wrote a letter, which was forwarded to Concepçion, through the governor of Arauco, by a Chilino going in that direction, addressed to the senior or any naval officer; stating our situation, the ill success of Lieutenant Collins in hiring a vessel, and begging immediate relief. Repaired our flag on the hill, which the strong wind had blown away. As the weather permitted, all hands airing and drying clothes and bedding. The mice very troublesome, though we calculated that we destroyed at least 500 daily. The weather became squally towards the evening, with rain, thunder, and lightning.

_June 16._--A bright morning, which was gladly hailed by all, and eager advantage taken of it to air and dry the numerous wet articles throughout the camp. Our small boat, the Dingy, had been dragged over from Molquilla, and was of great use on the river. It accidentally got adrift to-day, with a man in her, who, without the paddles, was carried past the entrance of the river, by the rapid current setting out, and narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces, by the surf, on the rocks outside: she was, however, secured eventually without any bad result.

Mustered under arms at sunset; discharged and reloaded them, as well as the cannonades. At 6 30′ P.M. Lieutenant Collins arrived, with a guide, on the opposite side of the river, whence we sent the balsa, and brought him over. The only information he brought was, a report that a man-of-war was expected at Valparaiso, where she would hear of our disaster, and, doubtless, take steps for our immediate succour. Several rats, of the opossum species, were seen about the camp, and a young one taken.

_June 17._--Fine weather; the wind light and variable. Employed the crew in various ways; drying clothes, cutting wood, and ditching to drain the ground in front of the camp. A strong shooting party started over the hills above us, to the southward. At 8 P.M., the officer of the watch having reported that five guns were heard to seaward, and being ever anxious to attract the attention of any one passing near, to show our position, we fired five shot from our cannonades, accompanying each with a rocket, and lighted a large fire on the hill, where we also burnt a blue light: nothing, however, was seen, though many of us ran to the hill, in all haste, to discover the supposed sail; we therefore concluded that the noise of the sea on the rocks, below the hill, might have given rise to the mistake.

_June 18._--Fine weather, with light variable winds. All hands employed in airing and drying bedding, &c., and as otherwise necessary. A party were despatched to reconnoitre the state of the wreck, which was found much displaced, from the effects of the late gales; and the flat, on which our camp had stood, showed marks of having been much overflowed. Many Indians were searching round the wreck, and stared hard at our party: they had their horses ready to decamp. Nothing in sight from our look-out hill. The glories of Waterloo were this day not forgotten by us, even in this wild and distant spot; the health of the Duke of Wellington being drank, with cheers, in the officers’ tent. Our companion, Signor Sylva, the Chilian major of Arauco, had heard of Napoleon and of the Duke of Wellington, and was quite eloquent on this occasion.

_June 19._--Fine morning; wind variable. Mustered; examined, and took an account of the ship’s company’s clothing and bedding. The store-tent was this day examined, and an attack made on the mice. A shooting party went out to try the ground on the south bank of the Leubu; which, about a league from the entrance, begins to be thickly wooded on each side, presenting some very picturesque windings. On the tops of the hills overhanging the river, the views, inland, are very extended; and ranges of hills can be traced, till lost amongst the chain of the Andes; but not a vestige of a habitation is to be seen. A Chilino was detected, to-day, in attempting to introduce a strong spirit, peculiar to the province of Arauco, into the camp; and, knowing the threat which the Captain had, through Signor Sylva, held out against such a transaction, attempted to make his escape across the river; but his horse, being tired, failed him: the skin of spirits was, therefore, taken possession of, and emptied in the mud. Nothing in sight from the hill. The bay below us being smooth, the Dingy was sent out to sound, and found a depth of water for anchorage from nineteen to five fathoms, in a direction between the two points which formed it. The seine was hauled outside the river, and several fine fish, of the carbinu tribe, taken.

_June 20._--Dark and cloudy weather, with showers of rain. Employed the ship’s company in making a road to the pier, laying on stones, and ditching it on each side. Though our sick list had happily continued low in number, there were many amongst the crew who were suffering from rheumatic attacks, the effects of the constant exposure to damp. Another reconnoisance was made of the wreck, which continued much as it had been in the former visit. Many Indians, strangers to us, from the southward, were engaged in examining it. The annoyance of the mice continued incessant, frequently obliging the crew to rise in the night to drive them from their beds, and preventing the possibility of getting rest. A few fish were again taken in the evening. At night, the weather moderate and cloudy: wind N.W.

_June 21._--Cloudy, foggy morning. Mustered the crew by the open list. The Consul despatched a man to Concepçion, _viâ_ Arauco, with letters. A brig hove in sight this morning from the signal-post; but, though we used all our endeavours to attract her attention, they were unsuccessful; and we had the disappointment of losing sight of her at dusk. The night promised to be calm and quiet.

_June 22._--Moderate and cloudy weather, with an appearance of rain: the wind northerly. The crew employed road-making, and clearing up our camp. The Captain and a party of officers crossed the river; rode to the opposite point of the bay, to see a curious cavern, known to the Indians as having formerly given shelter to the notorious pirate and rebel, Benivedes, and his party, and who were for some time succoured by them against the wrath of the Chilian forces. The road to this cave was a difficult one, through an almost impassable wood, and down a steep declivity from the hills above it. It was large, and sufficiently spacious to contain 1000 or 1500 men.

The party, on their return, visited the Indians in the huts on the plain north of the river; and succeeded, under the authority and assistance of Sylva, in extracting from them a couple of fine turkeys, with which they returned to the camp: they sat some time in the huts, and got some well-roasted potatoes from the inmates. A mother, half naked, was suckling her naked infant; and poultry and dogs were moving about in all directions: a pile of maize straw was heaped, in a

## particular form, on one side, which appeared to be the sleeping place

for the whole party, and common to all, and very dirty. The influence of Don Bernardino had procured us the luxury of milk; several cows having been driven down and swam across the river, and established at the huts immediately below our encampment, near the entrance of the Leubu, in one of which resided the old Indian proprietor of the ground which we were on.

_June 23._--It blew a gale of wind from the northward during the night, with heavy rain, causing a good deal of surf to roll into the bay. It continued raining hard till towards the evening, when it became foggy, with less wind. The crew suffered much from the wet state of their tents and clothing, and the confinement occasioned by the rains. The want of warm clothing was much felt: every possible substitute was resorted to; one of which was, the turning the blankets of those who were fortunate enough to possess one into ponchos, by putting the head through a hole cut in the middle, and which, with the addition of a belt, was the usual dress of the sentinels and watch.

An occasional visit was made to our old Indian landlord, the landed proprietor over many miles of land around us: his family consisted of eight or ten in number of either sex, subject to his control; they lived in what appeared to us great misery, dirt, and smoke, with mud outside their hut a foot deep. A little ground maize, some shell fish, or potatoes, appeared to form their food. Several small patches of ground were cleared and tilled by them for raising grain and potatoes; but during our stay little attention was paid to these objects. Indolence is certainly allied to the character of the Indian. The old proprietor was never met without receiving from him the friendly sentence of salutation of “Mai, mai;” and in his manner, he appeared to have a great respect towards us. Our tents felt the gale very much, and the rain penetrated on all sides. The bay was also rough and unquiet, with a good deal of surf breaking on the beach. The evening was cloudy, with rain. At 11 30′ P.M. we were joyfully surprised by a hail from the opposite bank of the river in our own language, which elated all with a hope, that the time had now arrived when we might look for the means of at length abandoning our tedious and comfortless encampment. The Dingy was immediately launched, and passed over to the north side, and returned with Captain Fitzroy, of his Majesty’s sloop Beagle, a German pilot, a servant, and their guide. Captain Fitzroy, to whom we owe a debt of great gratitude for his zealous exertions in our behalf, had arrived at Concepçion in his Majesty’s ship Blonde, Commodore Mason, C. B., and had volunteered to come overland, and take back to the commodore a report of our situation. The state of weather, and season of the year, had rendered his journey difficult and perilous, from the unusually flooded state of several rivers which he had to pass on his route. He had experienced many falls, from the difficulty of preserving the path through the woods in the dark, during the latter part of his journey.

We now heard that the Commodore had arrived at Concepçion on the 20th, from Valparaiso, where our disaster had only been known on the 17th, a month after the event: that he had hired, to despatch to our relief, an American schooner (the Carmen) from Concepçion, and that we might expect to see her off the Leubu in the course of a few days. We did our best to find supper, a sleeping place, and dry clothes for Captain Fitzroy and his companions. It is not to be sufficiently expressed how much joy and cheerfulness was at once diffused throughout the camp.

Our relief we now looked forward to as near at hand.

_June 24._--It rained hard during the night, but towards morning it cleared off. After examining the state of our situation, and consulting with Captain Seymour as to the expediency of the Blonde’s immediately proceeding to our assistance, Captain Fitzroy set off without delay on his journey, to return to Concepçion, and was fortunately favoured by an interval of fine weather.

Our sick list had increased but little; yet it was evident that many amongst the crew, as well as officers, were suffering greatly from the constant exposure to wet and damp. That it was not more felt is a matter of surprise: happily we had enough food and spirits, though our bread had failed us; and we had saved a cask of tobacco, which permitted smoking to be generally practised by all of us, and the benefit which arose from it was evidently great. The crew were employed in cutting and stacking wood for signal fires on the hill above the camp, and in drying clothes and clearing the camp: a party also thatching, with boughs of trees, the sentry boxes, to afford the men some shelter from the weather. We this morning received a report that the Indians had set fire to the wreck, and that it had burnt to the water’s edge. Towards night the weather became cloudy, with showers of rain.

_June 25._--Hard rain during the night, but clearing since daylight. Signor Sylva, who had rendered himself of use in all cases where his authority was necessary, this day took his departure for Arauco, with our consent that he should do so; his presence now with us not being of sufficient consequence to detain him longer from his command at Aruaco: the influence of Mr. Rouse, the Consul, still with us, ensuring on all occasions the countenance and aid of the Chilian government, if wanted. Our friend Sylva found our rum particularly cordial to his taste, and his desire to have a small supply for his journey was granted. The crew was employed in drying bedding, &c., and scrubbing hammocks. We received a supply of potatoes, and a few cheeses, which we found very acceptable. Nothing in sight from the hills. The seine was hauled in the river, but without success. Erected a hut on the hill near the flag-staff, for the shelter of the party who were now posted regularly there throughout the night, to keep the signal fires supplied with fuel. Three midshipmen were permanently established in this hut, which was large enough to hold the party of men who joined them every evening, at dusk, to arrange the fires. Some of the officers, who were rambling over the hills above the camp, discovered the skulls and skeletons of several Indians. They were accounted for by the Chilians, as some of the many who fell in the time of the rebel Benivedes, who, with the Indians to assist him, had made this neighbourhood the scene of many battles against the Chilinos.

_June 26._--It rained throughout the night, and drenched the camp, causing most serious discomfort to the sick and invalids. Two officers were despatched to ascertain the truth of the report of the burning the wreck, which was confirmed on their return, scarcely a vestige remaining. The force of the surf had washed up on the beach several of the tanks, which the Indians were examining. The crew employed in drying and airing clothes and bedding. The mice continued their destructive attacks on us. At 5 P.M. a sail was reported to be in sight from the hill in the N.N.W. direction, and there existed little doubt that it was the schooner Carmen, on her way to find us. Most unfortunately, the weather becoming foggy and squally, she was soon lost sight of, and our only hope of attracting her attention was by making large fires, which was immediately done, and kept burning all night, but with ill success. A fine condor was shot by one of the midshipmen on the hill. It was one of several which were constantly hovering over our camp. Some of our sick began to exhibit symptoms of fever, and caused us to feel an increasing anxiety to be relieved; for we could not ensure a dry bed for a sick person, and the surgeon was much abridged in the necessary medicines. At sunset, mustered under arms. The night squally, with hard rain.

_June 27._--Continued heavy rain, with thunder and lightning, causing the greatest possible discomfort to us; the weather so bad, that the crew could be employed only in their tents, and were suffering much from the wet. The fires had, with great difficulty, been kept burning during the night. The evening still dark, cloudy, and threatening.

_June 28._--No improvement in the weather, the rain falling heavily. Our camp in a deplorable condition, and the crew prevented from employment and exercise. The sick not improving, and several instances of despondency amongst them. The night promising no prospect of fairer weather.

_June 29._--Wind N.W. and N. Still raining, and with no appearance of its clearing. Our camp in a worse state than ever, and our situation becoming hourly more serious and anxious, from our want of comfort and protection for the sick, whose numbers were increasing. Towards evening it rained less heavily, and the crew were employed in cutting fire-wood for the cooks and the hill. At night it was dark and cloudy, with a dense fog.