Part 4

The illustration shows a loose leather cushion. There is quite a variety of materials out of which such a cushion can be made. The best, of course, is leather. In the highest class of furniture where loose cushions are used, the seat base is formed by solidly mortising a frame together on which is woven a heavy cane seating. This in turn is fastened to the inside of the piece of furniture, and the cushions when placed upon it make a very comfortable seat. The stock bill for this settee calls for such a frame. Wood slats may be substituted if desired.

[Illustration: Detail of the Oak Settee]

This piece of furniture will look well if finished in weathered oak. See that all glue is removed from the surface, and that the wood is clean and smooth, and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain. Sandpaper this lightly with No. 00 paper when the stain has thoroughly dried, and put on a coat of lackluster or an equivalent.

A SCREEN

In selecting or making up mission furniture for the home, a screen is necessary sometimes to add to the appearance of a room. The screen shown in the accompanying illustration consists of a few parts which are easily put together. The stock can be bought of any planing mill planed, sanded and cut to the proper lengths. The cloth, which should be of dark color, can be purchased at a dry goods store. The following list of material will be needed.

6 posts, 1 in. square by 65 in. 6 rails, 3/4 in. square by 18 in. 6 rails, 1/2 in. square by 18 in. 3 panels, 1/4 by 3 by 18 in. 6 yd. of cloth. 4 double-acting hinges. 2 doz. 2-1/2-in. slender screws.

Cut or plow a groove 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep in the center of one surface on each of the 3/4-in. rails. Cut out the ends with a compass saw. The five holes are bored with a 1-in. bit. The edges of these panels are inserted in the grooves of the 3/4-in. rails, using plenty of good glue.

When the glue has dried for at least 24 hours the screen frame can be put together. Holes for the screws should be bored through the posts where the 3/4-in. rails are joined and a screw turned into the end grain of each rail.

Scrape off all the surplus glue and sandpaper all the parts well. When this is done the finish can be applied. Any one of the mission stains can be used and finished with wax and polished.

[Illustration: Detail of One Section]

The cloth is cut to length, a hem sewed on each end and one 1/2-in. rail put through each hem. Place the top rail in position and screw it fast. Stretch the cloth tight and fasten the lower 1/2-in. rail with screws at the bottom. Each section of the screen is finished in the same way.

The hinges are attached about 4 in. from each end of the posts in the same manner as hanging a door.

The sections can be made up in various ways to suit the builder. Instead of using cloth, heavy paste-board, or board made up to take the place of plaster on walls of dwellings, may be substituted, thus forming a ground that will take paint and bronze decorations. A piece of this material can be easily cut to fit the opening in each section.

[Illustration: Screen of Three Sections]

A MISSION BOOKRACK

The accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed strictly along mission lines. Enough stock may be found among the scrap, as no piece is over 1 in, in width or thickness. If stock is not on hand, secure the following, cut to exact lengths:

2 stretchers, 1 by 1 by 20 in., S-4-S. 4 posts, 1 by 1 by 7-1/2 in., S-4-S. 4 rails, 1 by 1 by 7 in., S-4-S. 8 slats, 1/2 by 1/2 by 3-1/2 in., S-4-S.

Arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished rack and number both parts of each joint. There will be twelve lap joints, and great care must be taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly half the depth of each piece.

First fit the posts and rails of the ends. To mark the width of each notch, lay the piece which is to fit into the notch upon it and thus get the exact size. Knife lines must be used for the width and light gauge lines for the depth of each notch.

[Illustration: Detail of the Bookrack]

Next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers and ends.

In each end there are four slats which should be mortised into the rails 1/4 in. Glue the pieces in place and clamp them with handscrews.

A rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post will prevent the marring of the surface upon which the rack is to rest.

[Illustration: The Complete Bookrack]

Mission, weathered or fumed-oak stain will look well. A waxed finish should be used. Before applying the wax, it is well to use a very thin coat of shellac as a foundation. Let this coat stand for a few hours and allow an interval of at least an hour between applying the coats of wax.

Should the rack wind a little, it may be remedied by cutting off part of two diagonally opposite racks.

A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE

[Illustration: Detail of the Table]

This extension table should be made of some hard wood, preferably white oak. It will be a difficult matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated in solid pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however, to secure them veneered upon white-pine cores. If the veneering is properly done these will serve the purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to the white-pine core, being an advantage. The circular facing is best made by first sawing a segment of the circle of the size wanted and then veneering the outer surface of this. Order the following stock:

4 legs, 3 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 leg, 5 by 5 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S. 4 rails, 1-1/8 by 5 by 23 in., S-2-S. 4 facing segments, 1-1/8 by 3-1/4 in. on a 24-in. radius. 1 top, 1-1/8 in. thick on a 27-in. radius, S-2-S; 3 extra boards, 1-1/8 by 12 by 55 in., S-2-S. 4 slides, 1-1/8 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple. 2 slides, 1-1/4 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple. 4 frame pieces, 7/8 by 3 by 9 in., S-4-S, maple. 2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 6 by 28 in., S-4-S, maple. 2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 23-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.

[Illustration: Table for the Dining-Room Set]

There are various ways of arranging the slides to work one with the other. Several patented devices are on the market that permit a ready adjustment with but little effort and are used extensively by commercial manufacturers. The amateur will do well to secure a set before he undertakes to work these slides to shape.

Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Lay out and work the mortises. The ends of the facings are to be tenoned and housed into the posts. Prepare the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping the lower edges as shown in the drawing. Prepare the top. After this, assemble this much of the frame, using plenty of clamps and good hot glue.

Next get the under frame and the slides ready and attach them as shown. There will be needed plenty of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing where it is fastened to the top, etc.

For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired. Upon this, after it has hardened and been sanded with No. 00 paper, apply a coat of shellac. Upon the shellac apply successively several coats of some good rubbing varnish. Rub the first coats with haircloth and the final coat with pulverized pumice and crude or linseed oil.

If an effect is wanted that will contrast, stain the wood first with a water stain. Sand this lightly when dry, then apply a second coat of stain diluted one-half with water. Again sand and then apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand this lightly, and apply the filler and the varnish as described above.

AN ARM DINING CHAIR

[Illustration: Armchair of the Dining-Room Set]

This armchair will look well if made of plain-sawed oak. Quarter-sawed oak might be used, or black walnut if desired. The stock bill specifies the various parts mill-planed to size as far as possible. If some amateur craftsman should prefer to do his own surfacing, thereby saving somewhat on the expense, he should add 1/4 in. to the width of each piece, providing the stock is mill-planed to thickness. It is hardly profitable to get stock entirely in the rough if the work is to be done by hand. The following is the stock bill:

2 front posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S. 1 piece for back posts, 1-3/4 by 6 by 43 in., S-2-S. 2 arm pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S. 2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S. 4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S. 2 front and back lower rails, 5/8 by 2-3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S. 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 24 in., S-4-S. 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S. 2 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 slat, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 braces, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 5-1/2 in., S-2-S.

The design shown is for a chair in which the width of front and back is the same. Also the back leg parallels the front below the seat. In commercial practice the backs are usually made somewhat narrower than the fronts and the back leg is slanted somewhat below the seat as well as above. As this construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all tenons it complicates the problem when the work is not done by machinery. The ambitious amateur may readily get the proportion of slant by measuring common chairs. For mission effects the chair looks well with front and back the same width.

Prepare the front posts first and then the rear. The rear posts are to be cut from the single piece of stock specified. By proper planning both pieces may be gotten out without trouble. Lay off and cut the mortises.

Saw the rails to length and lay out and cut the tenons. The back rails are to have mortises in their edges to receive the ends of the slats. Instead of tenoning these slats make mortises large enough to receive the whole end--in other words, house the ends.

Shape the two arms, then glue up the back and then the front of the chair. After the glue has set sufficiently, assemble the remainder of the parts.

[Illustration: Detail of the Armchair]

Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the parts and then apply the finish.

For a seat, either a leather cushion may be placed upon slats or the bottom may be upholstered in the usual manner, using webbing on heavy canvas, and then felt or hair with a top of canvas and leather; the whole being firmly fastened with tacks and the leather with ornamental nails.

A HALL BENCH

All the stock for this bench should be of 7/8-in. oak, excepting the slats, which may be of a cheaper wood. The following list of lumber will be required to build it:

4 slats, 7/8 by 4 by 17 in., cheap wood. 2 cleats, 7/8 by 1 by 26 in., cheap wood. 4 end rails, 7/8 by 2 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S. 2 ends, 7/8 by 16 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S. 2 sides, 7/8 by 4 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S. 2 pieces, 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.

[Illustration: Detail of the Hall Bench]

Start the work by first cutting the two pieces of 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25-in. material diagonally 1 in. from each corner, thus making the legs. The edges are planed square and the ends should be rounded a little so that there will be no splinters projecting. The legs are mortised 1 in. deep for the side rails. The tenon ends are cut on the rails, care being taken to get the right angle and a good fit. These can now be fastened together, using hot glue on the entire surface of the joint.

[Illustration: Bench Made of Plain Oak]

While these are drying the ends can be made as shown in the plan. The 3 by 4-in. holes are cut at equal distances apart. Be sure that each end is perfectly square, then glue and dowel the 2-in. strips at each end. The ends are then glued and nailed to the sides, using finishing nails, which are set and the holes filled with colored putty.

The cleats are now fastened, extra care being taken when fastening them over the joints where the legs receive the side rails, as this will help to strengthen the joints. The slats rest on these cleats and are placed at equal distances apart.

The bench is now finished, but before applying the stain, see that all parts are free from glue and are well sandpapered.

The leather cushion should be the loose kind and of a shade to harmonize with the finish.

A SEWING TABLE

This convenient and useful table will be much appreciated by any woman. It has two drawers for sewing material, and two drop leaves to spread the work upon.

The following list of material will be needed for its construction. The sizes given are exact, so if the stock cannot be bought at a mill ready planed and squared, a slight allowance must be made for this.

4 posts, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 27 in., S-4-S. 9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S. 1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 18 in., S-2-S. 2 leaves, 7/8 by 10 by 18 in., S-2-S. 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S. 4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 13 in., S-2-S. 2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4-1/8 by 13 in., S-2-S. 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 12-3/4 by 13 in., S-2-S. 4 drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S. 3 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 14 in., S-2-S. 2 brackets, 7/8 by 3 by 4 in., S-2-S.

Have the surfaces of the legs exactly square with each other. The ends must be square with all surfaces, but need not be planed smooth as neither will be seen in the finished table.

[Illustration: Sewing Table in Plain Oak]

Arrange the rails in position. The two rails in each side and back are placed with the 2-in. surface out, while the three in the front have the 2-in. surface up for the drawers to slide upon. Mark the tenons, 1 in, by 3/8 in., with a knife and gauge lines on each end of the rails for the sides and back. Mark the tenons, 3/4 in. by 7/8 in., as shown in the sketch, on each end of front rails. Cut all the tenons with a backsaw and smooth them with a chisel.

[Illustration: Detail of the Sewing Table]

Carefully mark the mortises in the legs, taking measurements for each mortise from the tenon which is to go into it. Fit together all rails and legs without glue to detect any errors.

See that the panels for sides and back are squared up true and the surfaces smooth. Mark the grooves for the panels in the side and back rails and legs. Cut the grooves with a chisel or plow plane to a depth of 1/4 in.

Glue up the joints and clamp the two table sides first. While the glue is setting, square up and smooth the top and two leaves perfectly.

Now glue up the whole table, having set in the front and back rails and panel. The drawer slides, two on each side, should next be put in. A nail through them and into each leg will hold them, as there is only the weight of the drawers resting on them. Fasten the top with screws through the rails from the under side. The leaves are attached with two 2-in. butt hinges which must be set in flush with the under surface to prevent a crack showing between the table top and leaf when the latter is raised. The small bracket hinged to the panel supports the open leaf.

[Illustration: Construction of the Drawer]

The drawers are now made. Allow the side to lap over the front 1/2 in. as shown in sketch and fasten it with nails. The bottom should be let into the sides and front 1/4 in., but must not be nailed to them, because this would cause the drawer to stick, when the bottom expands.

Metal rings or wooden knobs will do well for the drawer pulls.

Stain to any desired shade and finish with a wax if a dull gloss is wanted, or with one coat of shellac and two coats of varnish for a highly polished surface.

A SIDE CHAIR

A companion piece to the chair with arms and the sideboard is the side chair illustrated herewith. It should be made of the same kind of wood and finished to correspond with the armchair. Order the following stock list:

2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 piece for back posts, 1-1/2 by 5-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S. 4 seat rails, 1 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S. 4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S. 2 lower front and back rails, 5/8 by 2-1/2 by 17 in., S-4-S. 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S. 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S. 1 slat, 3/8 by 3 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.

Square up the front posts to length. From the single piece specified cut out the back posts, giving them the amount of slant indicated in the drawing. Set these four posts upright in the positions they are to occupy relative to one another in the finished piece, and mark off, as with penciled circles, the approximate locations of mortises. After this, lay them on the bench side by side, even the lower ends and locate accurately the ends of the mortises. Gauge their sides.

Saw the rails to length and lay out the shoulder lines and the cheeks of the tenons and cut them. Plan to house the ends of the slats in the back rails.

[Illustration: Side Chair of Dining-Room Set]

While the drawing shows a chair in which the front and back are of equal width, the amateur may make the back narrower if he so desires. A measurement of a common chair will give the proportions.

[Illustration: Detail of the Side Chair]

Place the front and the back in the clamps and after the glue has had time to harden, assemble the remaining parts. Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts, carefully removing any surplus glue. Wood finish will not "take hold" where any glue has been allowed to remain.

The seat may be given the same treatment as suggested for the armchair. This should not be done, however, until the finish has been applied.

A simple finish is obtained by the application of a coat of paste filler of a soft brown color, if oak has been used. Apply and clean this off in the manner directed by the manufacturers and after it has had 24 hours in which to harden, sand it lightly with No. 00 paper. Over this apply a thin coat of shellac. Allow this to harden, then sandpaper lightly with fine paper. Upon the shellac apply several coats of some good rubbing wax. Follow the directions that are to be found upon the cans, being careful not to apply too much at a time. If too much wax is applied, it stays in the small pores of the wood and produces an ugly chalk-like appearance.

ANOTHER PIANO BENCH

The piano bench shown is best made of black walnut or oak and should be finished in the natural color for walnut, but stained some rich brown for oak.

The following pieces will be needed:

1 top, 1 by 15-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S. 2 legs, 1 by 14-1/2 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 rails, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S. 1 stretcher, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37 in., S-2-S.

The keys can be secured from the waste that will be cut off from the other parts.

Square up the top in the usual manner to the size indicated in the working drawing. In a similar manner square up the stretcher to width and length.

There will be no need to square the ends of the rails as they are to be cut off on a slant. Square up the sides or edges and then lay off and cut the slanting ends, smoothing them with the plane. Lay off and work the shape on their under edges.

[Illustration: Detail of the Piano Bench]

The ends are best laid off by means of a template or pattern for which a piece of rather heavy paper will do. Lay off the main dimensions on a center line. Sketch in the curve of the edge after the slant has been laid out. Lay out the form at the bottom, then fold the paper along the center line and trace the other half. With this pattern lay off the outline upon the wood. For convenience in laying out the grooves for the rails and the mortise for the tenon on the stretcher, it is well to work a face edge upon each leg and allow this to remain until these joints have been made and the parts fitted. The shape at the bottom of the leg is merely suggestive and may be modified as desired.

Lay out and work the tenons on the stretcher. Then lay out and work the grooves upon the rails. Each side of each rail is grooved 1/8 in, to allow the leg to be recessed. This is done to give the bench the bracing that is needed to make it stand firmly. Work the grooves in the legs and the mortises for the rails.

[Illustration: Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak]

It should be noted that the mortise for the key in the stretcher must be laid out before the shoulders and cheeks of the tenon on which the mortise is made are cut off. Otherwise there would be no place to put the gauge in marking the sides of the mortise for the key.

Thoroughly scrape all the parts and then assemble them. No glue is needed. The rails are held in place by dowel pins, the heads of which are allowed to project slightly and rounded so as to give an ornamental effect. The top is attached by means of small angle irons or by means of blocks and screws fastened to the corners made by top and rails.

ANOTHER SCREEN

The screen shown in the accompanying illustration is made of burlap and plain-sawed oak. The stock list follows:

2 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 40 in., S-4-S. 2 base pieces, 3 by 3 by 12-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 horizontals, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 38 in., S-2-S. 1 horizontal, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S. 1 vertical, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S. 4 braces, 1-1/8 by 4-1/4 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S.