Part 5

The two base pieces may be shaped first. The drawing shows the form and the dimensions. Make use of a face edge in laying out the mortises in the base pieces for the uprights, before these face edges are removed to make the slanting sides.

Work the verticals to length, laying out and cutting the tenons at the bottoms, and shaping the tops as shown.

Lay out and shape the three horizontals as shown, working the tenons upon the ends of each and the mortises in the lower two for the tenons of the middle vertical.

For the braces, secure a face edge on each piece and square one end of each to that. Lay off the curve free-hand upon one block and cut it out. Use this block as a pattern or template to lay off the others.

Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts, then assemble them, using clamps and good hot glue. Take care to see that there is no warp in the frame as it lies in the clamps. After the glue on the frame has hardened, remove the clamps and attach the base blocks and the braces. The braces are secured by means of round-head screws.

[Illustration: Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels]

Remove the surplus glue and then apply a finish as desired.

For the paneling, frames will be needed about which to fasten the burlap. These may be made of 1/2-in, soft wood and the following pieces will be necessary:

2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 36 in., S-2-S. 2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 8 in., S-2-S. 4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 18 in., S-2-S. 4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S.

Make these frames enough smaller than the openings they are to occupy to allow for burlap and tacks. These frames are held in place by putting fixed nails in the top of each frame before the burlap is attached. Holes are bored in the rails to correspond to them. The lower edges of the frames are held in place by nails inserted up through the rails upon which the frames rest.

[Illustration: Detail of the Frame]

A FOLDING CARD TABLE

The accompanying sketch shows the details of a card table that can be folded up and carried about or stored away when not in use. We would advise making two tables at the same time, as the material for both can be purchased nearly as cheaply as for one. The material necessary for making one table is given in the following list:

1 piece, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 27-1/2 in., basswood or poplar. 2 pieces, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 29-1/4 in., basswood or poplar. 4 legs, 1 in. square, 24-3/4 in. long; oak. 4 pieces, 1 in. square, 5 in. long; oak. 4 side pieces, 3/8 by 1-3/8 by 29-5/8 in.; oak. 4 pieces, 27-1/2 in. long, single groove electric wire moulding with batten. 1 piece cardboard, 1/8 in. thick, 29-1/4 in. square. 4 pieces brass rod, 3-16 in. diameter, 15 in. long. 30 small copper washers, 3/8 or 7/16 in. outside diameter and drilled 3/16 in. 4 brass corners, 1-3/8 in, deep. 2-1/2 doz. No. 5 oval head brass screws, 3/4 in. long. 4 No. 2, 7/8-in. rubber screw tips. 1 piece felt, 1 yd. square. 1 sheet wadding, 1 yd. square (if pad is wanted under felt). 1 pt. wood stain. 3 doz. No. 14 wire beads, 2 in. long. Some 2-oz., 4-oz., and 6-oz. flat-head tacks.

Begin by squaring up the four legs making them all 24-3/4 in. long and 1 in. square. Also square up the crosspieces marked B in the detail drawing. These should be 5 in. long and should have 1/4-in. holes about 1 in. deep drilled in both ends of each for the 1/4-in. oak swivel pins. Measure back 1-1/2 in. from one end of each and bore a 9/16-in. hole, 7/8 in. deep as shown. Now cut a tenon on one end of each leg, 3/4 in. long, that will fit tightly in this 9/16-in. hole. Round the corners of the piece B at the top as shown at C. Fasten the two pieces together with glue and brads, being careful to get them square with each other. After the glue is set bore a 3/16-in. hole in the center of the leg, 7 in. from the edge of the crosspiece, for the brace rod. Bevel the corners as shown. Sandpaper them smooth, then stain and polish.

[Illustration: Detail of the Card Table]

[Illustration: Card Table Ready for Use]

Lay the two pieces marked D and E in the sketch on a level surface with the 7/8-in. edge up, place the cardboard on top and tack it fast to the pieces, using 6-oz. tacks. Place the center piece in and tack it fast also. Fasten the ends to the other pieces with brads. The four pieces of electric wire moulding should each measure exactly 27-1/2 in. long, or the same length as the center piece. Fit a piece of wood about 4 in. long in the groove at each end of the moulding, plane down and fasten with brads. Next take the thin batten or covering strip that comes with the moulding and bore a 1/2-in. hole in the center, 6 in, from one end, and a 1/4-in. hole, 8-3/16 in. from the other end. With a gouge cut a slot 1/4 in. wide from one hole to the other in the center as shown in the section A-A. Sandpaper this slot smooth and then fasten the batten to the moulding with small brads driven in about 2 in. apart. At a point 3/4 in. from each end and in the center drill 1/4-in. holes through the moulding at the small ends of the slots. These are for the ends of the brace rods to spring into, to lock the legs when they are open. Tack the two pieces of moulding marked F and J on the remaining edges of the cardboard with the slots facing in and the large holes of the slots at opposite sides, then place the other two pieces (G and H) 5 in. inside of these, or just the length of the cross ends of the legs, with the slots facing the first two placed (F and J) and tack fast with 4-oz. tacks. Use brads at the ends and be careful that they do not enter the 1/4-in. holes. This part of the table can now be stained or painted the same as the legs. The 3/8-in. side pieces can also be stained at this time.

The ends of the brass rods can be bent in a vise. One end should be 1 in. long and should be square with the stock. Measure 11-1/4 in. center to center and bend in opposite direction, leaving this end at a slight angle out from square. Just at this bend raise a burr with a sharp chisel to keep the washer on. Now place five of the copper washers on the 1-in. end and batter the end of the rod so they will not slip off. They should be loose so that they will roll and slip on the brace. Slip a washer on the other end and put the end of the rod through the 3/16-in. hole in the leg from the short end side, place another washer on the rod, saw off and rivet down the end.

[Illustration: The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top]

To put the legs in the table, slip the end of one of the braces and the washers in the large hole in the slot, shove it up until the 1/4-in. hole in the crosspiece and the one in the moulding meet, then drive an oak dowel or rod into each end. This is the hinge or pivot that the legs swing on. When the leg is extended the end of the brace rod should spring into the 1/4-in. hole in the moulding and lock the leg in place. Rubber tips should be put on the bottom ends of the legs. Two wooden buttons should be made and fastened to the cardboard as shown at K for locking the legs when they are closed.

The felt can now be put on the top of the table. Stretch it tightly and then tack the edges securely to the sides of the table. Now fasten on the 3/8-in. side pieces and the brass corners with the small brass screws as shown on the drawing, and the table is complete.

MAGAZINE STAND

If you do not possess the necessary tools for getting out the material used in this piece of furniture, it can be purchased from a mill already planed, sanded and cut to lengths given in the list. Any kind of wood can be used, but quarter-sawed red oak with a mission stain and waxed, gives the best appearance. The following pieces will be needed:

2 shelves, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S. 1 shelf, 3/8 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S. 1 shelf, 3/8 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S. 8 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S. 2 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S. 4 doz. 1 in. No. 9 round-head screws.

Take the four shelves and line them up with their backs and ends even and clamp them together firmly. Mark the places for the slats across the edges of the shelves, making the first line 1/2 in. from their ends. Use a square to get the lines at right angles to the surface. Another line is drawn 1-1/8 in. from the first, or the width of the slat. The ends of the shelves are marked in the same manner, beginning from the back edges and making the first line 1/2 in. from them, and then another line 1-1/8 in. from the first, or the width of the slat. Make a line across the ends, 1/2 in. from the front edge of the 8-in, shelves, and another line 1-1/8 in. back from the first one. This will leave 2-1/2 in. and 4-1/2 in. of space respectively from the front edges of the 10-in. and 12-in. shelves. Shift the shelves so they will be even on the front edges and mark them the same as the back. Make a 1/4-in. depth mark on all edges between the lines and cut this material out. This can be done while the shelves are clamped together.

[Illustration: Stand Complete]

[Illustration: Detail of Stand]

Place the shelves on end in their order and start by screwing on the back slats on both ends first, then screw on the two front slats. Turn the stand down and put on the two back slats. Attach the two front slats on the top shelf first. Then bore the places for the remaining holes and turn in the screws. This will bend the slats into place. The two remaining slats are screwed on the ends of the shelves without letting them in, making the spaces equal. Mark each slat 1/2 in. below the bottom shelf and saw them off. The stand can be taken apart, sandpapered and stained.

A TABOURET

The stock necessary to make a tabouret of craftsman design as shown in the accompanying illustration can be purchased from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use and it is also the easiest to secure. Order the following pieces:

4 legs, 1-1/2 in. square by 22 in. long. 1 top, 3/4 in. thick by 14 in. square. 4 top rails, 3/4 by 4 by 12 in. 4 lower rails, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in.

First square up the four legs. Bevel the tops at an angle of 30 deg. and hollow out the lower part of the legs as shown in the detail sketch. Clamp them together with the ends square and lay out the mortises all at once. Cut the tenons on the rails to fit these mortises. Lay them out in the same manner as the posts so as to get them all the same distance between shoulders. The upper rails should be cut out underneath as shown.

[Illustration: Detail of Tabouret]

The rails and posts can now be glued together. Be careful to get them joined perfectly square. When they are dry cut and fit the top as shown. This is fastened to the top rails by means of screws from the inside. Remove all surplus glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take where there is any glue. Go over the whole with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots, then apply the finish you like best.

[Illustration: Finished Tabouret]

[Illustration: Complete Porch Swing]

A PORCH SWING

The porch swing shown in the illustration can be made of southern pine at a very moderate cost. It should be suspended by rustless black chains and eyebolts passing through the lower rails. If cushions are desired they can be made up quite cheaply of elastic felt covered with denim cloth.

These pieces, dressed and sanded, may be bought at the mill:

2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 71 in., S-4-S. 1 rail, 1-3/4 by 3 by 65 in., S-4-S. 2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 25 in., S-4-S. 2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 17 in., S-4-S. 2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S. 2 arm rests, 7/8 by 4 by 28 in., S-2-S. 5 slats, 3/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S. 8 ft. flooring for bottom. 2 cleats, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.

Plane and square the ends of all the rails and posts. Lay out the lap joints for the back rails and posts. Use a knife line for this and saw exactly to the line to avoid trimming with the chisel. When sawing be careful to cut exactly halfway through the thickness of each piece. In the same way make the lap joints between the front rail and posts. Have the two end rails exactly the same length and proceed to fasten the front and back posts to them, using 4-in. lag screws and washers. Bore through the posts and part way into the ends of the end rails for the lag screws.

[Illustration: Detail of the Porch Swing]

The slats are mortised 1/2 in. into the back rails, or a 3/8-in. groove may be planed in these rails, the entire distance between joints, to receive the slats. A rabbeting plane will be needed for this. The arm rests lap over the back posts and are held to them with 2-in. round-head screws. They may be fastened to the top of the front posts with round-head screws or dowel pins.

Ordinary pine flooring makes a good, tight seat, or 7/8-in. board may be used if desired. Fasten the cleats, which support the seat, to the front and back lower rails with 1-1/2-in. screws.

To bring out the beautiful grain of southern pine, stain it brown or black and finish with two coats of waterproof varnish.

A FOOT WARMER

This foot warmer is so constructed that two bricks may be heated and placed inside of the stool.

Oak is the most suitable wood to use, and the following pieces will be needed:

4 legs, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 8 in., S-4-S. 4 side rails, 7/8 by 3 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S. 4 top pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-2-S. 1 bottom piece, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S. 1 piece asbestos, 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in. 4 pieces asbestos, 2 by 8-1/2 in. 1 sheet of brass, 13 by 13 in., 17 gauge. 2 hinges, 1 elbow catch, 3 doz. ornamental tacks.

The work may be started by shaping the four legs and cutting the mortises for the rails. Tenons are cut on the ends of the rails to fit in the mortises made in the posts. They are then glued together, care being taken to get the stool perfectly square.

The top frame can now be made and covered with the sheet of brass. The frame has mitered corners and the inside of the frame must be even with the inside of the rails. This in turn is fastened to the stool with the two hinges on the back and the elbow catch on the front side to keep it closed.

[Illustration: Detail of the Foot Warmer]

The design on the brass can be made by tacking it on a board, laying out the design and piercing the background with some sharp-pointed tool. This leaves the design raised with a smooth surface.

The brass can now be removed from the board, placed on the frame and fastened with the ornamental tacks.

Turn the stool bottom side up and line the inside of the rails with asbestos; then place the bricks on the inside of the stool. Both should fit up tight to the brass when the bottom is in place.

[Illustration: Oak Stool with Brass Cover]

The stool is now ready for the finish, which can be of some stain to match the other furniture in the room where it is to be used.

A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM

This plate rack can be made of any kind of wood and finished to match other pieces of furniture in the room, but as it is of mission design, oak is the most suitable lumber, as it takes the mission stain so nicely.

The material required is as follows:

4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S. 1 top, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 48 in., S-2-S. 2 plate rails, 7/8 by 6-1/4 by 32 in., S-2-S. 2 back boards, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S. 2 side boards, 7/8 by 5-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S. 4 shelves, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 8-1/4 in., S-2-S. 2 plate rests, 7/8 by 7/8 by 32 in., S-4-S.

[Illustration: Detail of Plate Rack]

This stock is specified to exact thickness, but some allowance is made for trimming on the edges and ends.

Begin work by squaring up the posts to length and beveling the top ends, then trim the back and side boards. These are nailed together, lapping the back board over the side board. The posts are fastened with dowels placed at equal distances apart. Hot glue is used in the joints.

[Illustration: Dining-Room Plate Rack]

The four shelves are now put in place. These are notched out to fit around the posts and are nailed and glued.

While the glue is hardening on these, the plate rails can be cut. These have 7/8-in grooves near the front edge to receive the lower edge of the plates when resting against the two strips placed 5 in. above the plate rails and far enough back to prevent the plates from falling forward.

The rails are fastened to the two sides with dowels, three at each end being sufficient. The two strips fit in mortises cut in the side pieces. The top is then put on. This fits around the posts and rests on the sides. Hooks on which to hang cups are placed under the rails. All parts are thoroughly sandpapered before the stain is applied.

A MISSION SIDEBOARD

[Illustration: Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set]

The sideboard is a piece designed to go with the armchair and side chair with similar paneling design. Like these chairs the sideboard should be made of hard wood and should be similarly finished. The drawer pulls, if not made of wood, should be of such metal and design as to harmonize with the mission style. Wrought-iron effects in plain outlines are appropriate.

Drawer sides, bottoms and backs may be made of some soft wood, such as yellow poplar. The small top drawer may be lined with ooze leather for holding silverware.

Obtain the following stock:

2 posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in., S-4-S. 2 posts, 2 by 2 by 39 in., S-4-S. 1 top, 1 by 23 by 58 in., S-2-S. 2 plate rails, 1/2 by 2 by 58 in., S-4-S. 1 plate rail, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 58 in., S-4-S. 2 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 21 in., S-4-S. 2 rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S. 2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 21 in., S-4-S. 4 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 panels, 3/8 by 18-3/4 by 10 in., S-2-S. 1 back rail, 7/8 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S. 1 back rail, 7/8 by 3-1/8 by 54 in., S-4-S. 1 back rail, 7/8 by 3 by 54 in., S-4-S. 2 back stiles, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S. 2 back stiles, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S. 1 back panel, 3/8 by 10 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S. 1 back panel, 3/8 by 11-1/2 by 53 in., S-2-S. 2 back panels, 3/8 by 11 by 11 in., S-2-S. 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 3 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 6 by 52-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 drawer ends, 1/2 by 3 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar. 4 drawer ends, 1/2 by 4 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar. 4 drawer ends, 5/8 by 6 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar. 3 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar. 2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 6 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar. 3 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar. 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar. 2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S. 4 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 54 in., S-4-S. 10 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 22 in., S-4-S. 2 middle verticals, 3/4 by 22 by 13 in., S-2-S. Drawer guides can be made from scrap stock.

A detailed description is hardly necessary for such a piece of work as this. Anyone capable of building it, will know the order of the different operations that are required in its construction.

[Illustration: Detail of the Sideboard]

It may be said that the two back panels at either side of the small drawers may be filled with beveled plate glass instead of wood if one so choose.

Transcriber's Notes:

Folio 4: "Millplaned" changed to "Mill-planed" Folio 34: Started new paragraph at "The bottom board...." Added captions to Illustrations: Folio 33: "Umbrella Stand" Folio 34: "Detail of Umbrella Stand" Folio 54" "Detail of Pedestal"