chapter v
. of the Guide; but from the Beaver-Duncan divide to the
neighbourhood of Wells Pass there is a continuous stretch of alpine country, which rivals in height, beauty and general interest the main Selkirk Range itself. The Spillimacheen Range has as yet hardly been touched, but south of Bugaboo Pass a series of energetic campaigns have, since 1910, been carried on from the Upper Columbia Valley. The district is far from being an ‘exhausted’ one, but the remarkable group of mountains situated between Horse Thief Creek and Toby Creek has been thoroughly explored and mapped.[46]
[Sidenote: Some Minor Ranges.]
It has been said that the range rapidly loses its interest to the south of Wells Pass, but it is rash to make such a statement in Canada, where the alpine area is being continually enlarged by fresh discoveries so rapidly that it is difficult to keep pace with them. In illustration of this, reference may here be made to an entirely unexpected alpine region found in 1912 in Vancouver Island, and to Dr. A. P. Coleman’s recent explorations in the Torngats (Labrador) on the other side of the continent.[47]
Another outlying district which deserves mention, though not so recent a discovery, is the Garibaldi Range, near Vancouver City.[48]
[Sidenote: The Main Chain from Laggan to Jasper.]
Returning now to the main chain, there is nothing to be added, so far as the south side of the C.P.R. is concerned, to what has been already said. There remains the main chain to the north, which falls naturally into two sections--that lying beyond the G.T.P. railway, and that situated between the two railways, the largest, and in many respects the most interesting, of all the areas with which we have to deal. This section, or rather that part of it lying south of the Athabasca Pass, was divided by Dr. Norman Collie[49] into four main groups: (1) The Balfour (or Waputik) group, between the Kicking Horse Pass and Howse Pass; (2) the Forbes group, between Howse Pass and Thompson Pass, 30 miles farther north; (3) the Columbia group, extending over the 35 miles from Thompson Pass to Fortress Lake Pass; (4) the Mount Hooker group, between the Fortress Lake Pass and the Athabasca Pass, 25 miles farther. Sir J. Outram’s divisions and subdivisions,[50] so far as they are carried, practically coincide with those of Dr. Collie. To these must now be added a fifth group, the mountains between the Athabasca and Yellowhead Passes, which may be called the Edith Cavell group. As far as the Athabasca Pass the range has a very definite western boundary consisting of the great trench of the Columbia River, and it is this portion of it which Sir J. Outram refers to when he says the Rockies are 60 miles in breadth. At the Athabasca Pass the range connects with the mass of mountains that separate the Columbia and Fraser River basins, and from this point northward no precise statement as to the breadth of the chain is possible.
Of the groups above mentioned the first falls within the C.P.R. district, and has been already dealt with; the second and third were the scene of much climbing and exploration from 1898 to 1902, in which the leading part was played by Dr. Collie. He and Mr. Stutfield have described his three expeditions in _Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies_, one of the Alpine classics of Canada. The whole of this exploratory work is well summarized in the second half (chapters x.-xv.) of Sir J. Outram’s book. Since that time the energies of pioneers have been diverted in other directions, and few, if any, additions have been made to our knowledge of the region.[51] The credit of having mapped it belongs to Dr. Collie; all subsequent maps are based on his; the only extensions of importance are due to Dr. A. P. Coleman.[52] A study of the records will show that there is still plenty of scope for exploration in groups 3 and 4, and if first ascents are not the principal object, groups 2, 3 and 4 probably offer as fine a field for climbing as any district in Canada.
Attempts have been made to approach the crest of the range from the west by the lateral valleys descending to the Columbia River, but the travelling proved to be exceptionally bad even for the Rockies, and this line of attack is only mentioned to be dismissed. The explorations above mentioned were carried on wholly on the eastern side of the range, and the route generally followed holds so important a place in mountaineering geography that it must be described in some detail. Starting from Laggan, it ascends the valley of the Bow River, running parallel to the Waputik Range, to the Bow Pass. Thence it descends into the basin of the North Saskatchewan by the south branch of that river (also called Bear Creek, and, more rarely, the Mistaya River), and leaves it again by the north branch. Both these streams, as their names suggest, also run parallel to the main chain. At the head of the north branch the Wilcox Pass leads to the valley of the Athabasca, which also runs nearly due north, and is followed till the G.T.P. Railway is reached at Jasper. The ‘air line’ from Laggan to Jasper is just 130 miles, and a good idea of the scale and character of the journey may be formed by comparing it with that from Chur to Martigny, which are almost precisely the same distance apart. Starting from Chur, the Vorderrhein represents the Upper Bow, and the Oberalp the Bow Pass. The Reuss corresponds to the North Saskatchewan, the Furca to Wilcox Pass, and the Rhone to the Athabasca. In each case the main chain is on the traveller’s left hand, while other ranges of varying size and importance rise on his right, though, unfortunately, the Rockies have nothing comparable to the Bernese Oberland. Of course there is no correspondence, in point of distance, between the intervening points. Very roughly speaking, it is 70 miles to Wilcox Pass, the valleys of the Upper Bow and the two branches of the Saskatchewan being each a little over 20 miles in length, while it is about 60 miles from Wilcox Pass to Jasper. The early explorers all started from Laggan, and only one of them, Dr. Coleman,[53] followed the route here described throughout its whole length. It is scarcely necessary to point out how enormously its importance and value have been enhanced by the construction of the second line of railway.
The groups mentioned above are progressively more imperfectly known as one moves farther north, mainly owing to the difficulty of time and the necessity which formerly existed of a long return journey. The mountains north of Wilcox Pass can now be much more rapidly and easily reached from Jasper. Those which enclose the Whirlpool River are still almost untouched, and would well repay a prolonged visit. The best line of attack for those on the left bank (the fifth or Edith Cavell group) would probably be found by going through the depression to the west of Mount Edith Cavell. The ascent from the Whirlpool trail to it is steep, but a good packer could get horses up it. Mount Edith Cavell was approached by this route and climbed by Mr. E. D. Holway in 1915. Some of the mountains to the west of the depression look difficult.[54] On the opposite side of the Whirlpool, which in its ordinary condition is fordable here, a large valley running deeply into the mountains on the right bank looks well adapted to facilitate the exploration of the blank space on Dr. Coleman’s map between the Whirlpool and Wood Rivers; horses could probably be taken up it. The starting-point for this valley or for the Edith Cavell depression can be reached in three days from Jasper.[55]
Close to the Yellowhead Pass, Mount Fitzwilliam, a prominent rock peak, must be of exceptional interest as a view-point, and may be a good climb as well.
[Sidenote: The Groups East of the Main Chain.]
Of the groups situated to the east of the main chain, the one between the Bow and Saskatchewan Rivers can be traversed by the Pipestone Creek and Pass and Siffleur Creek. This route, which reaches the Saskatchewan a few miles below the confluence of its north and south branches, was several times used as an alternative to that by the Bow Pass; and there are transverse passes from the Upper Bow Valley to both the Pipestone and the Siffleur Creeks, but the early explorers seem to have found no great inducements to linger in this region.[56]
A much larger block of mountains is that which separates the Saskatchewan from the Athabasca, and gives rise to its important tributary, the Brazeau; its southern portion was crossed in three or four directions by Dr. Coleman,[57] who is the only authority on it that I have come across. In the northern portion, between Mount Brazeau and the Athabasca, is Maligne Lake, reached in 1908 by Mrs. Schæffer’s party,[58] the first white visitors, via Poboktan Creek, and probably also accessible by a pass nearly opposite the mouth of the Whirlpool Valley. The few people who have visited Maligne Lake are remarkably enthusiastic about it, and, judging from photographs, the peaks round its head should prove very interesting to climbers. Much more is likely to be heard of them in the near future, as the lower end of the lake is only fifteen miles from Jasper by the valley--hitherto impassable for horses--of the Maligne River, up which a trail will certainly be made very shortly, if it has not been already completed, and the results of further investigation will have an important effect on the reputation of Jasper as a centre.
[Sidenote: The Main Chain North of the G.T.P.]
We now come to the mountains north of the G.T.P. Railway, which spread over an extensive and indefinite area, of which our present knowledge may be described as considerable but patchy. Mount Robson, the magnet which first drew explorers here in the pre-railway days, is, and must remain, the principal centre of interest. It is the great alpine asset of the G.T.P., and an hotel will probably soon arise somewhere near Mount Robson Station, opposite the mouth of the Grand Forks River, a tributary of the Fraser. Up the Grand Forks Valley the base of its western face--the best line of ascent--can now be reached in a long half-day, by rail and trail, from Jasper. Very full information with regard to this great peak, the highest in the Canadian Rockies, and its satellites and surroundings, is now available, but it would take too long to deal with it here.[59] Swift Current Creek and two or three other valleys descending into the Fraser below the Grand Forks were visited by Mr. Holway in 1915 and 1916; he reports: “A wonderful field for exploration, especially in the big bend of the Fraser.” The same energetic explorer paid a brief visit in 1916 to the Cariboo Range, on the other side of the Fraser, probably the most important of the independent minor ranges.[60]
The main watershed immediately to the north of Mount Robson (Robson Pass) consists of a long flat plain, so level that the water issuing from the Robson Glacier flows both ways. All climbing hitherto has been done from camps on this plain, which was formerly inaccessible, except by actual climbing, from the much lower Grand Forks Valley, and attainable only by a roundabout route from the east via the Moose River and Pass. It can now be reached via the Grand Forks by a trail engineered in 1913, in seven or eight hours from Mount Robson Station. If an ascent of Mount Robson itself be the sole object, it would probably be the quickest way--as above suggested--to go up to a bivouac direct from the Grand Forks Valley; but the higher camping-ground on the divide is much the best centre for exploring the neighbourhood generally. The round trip by the Moose River route is also worth making for its own sake, especially if time permits of some climbing being done on the way. There are interesting expeditions to be made near the Moose Pass: Resplendent Valley, at the head of the West Fork of the Moose River, is well worth a visit, and, though the actual line of the divide has been laid down by Mr. Wheeler, there is still exploratory work to be done among the mountains between the East Fork and Grant Creek.
For the whole of this region Mr. Wheeler’s map[61] is indispensable. The mountains facing Mount Robson _immediately_ on the other side of the level plain above mentioned have all been climbed, but behind these there is a remarkable region which is still very little known. The range duplicates itself in a curious way difficult to explain on paper, enclosing a low plateau, along which, strange to say, the main divide seems to run. On the eastern side of the plateau is the Chown group, first visited by Dr. Collie’s party in 1911.[62] Our further knowledge of the country in this direction is mainly due to Donald Phillips, who has made a rough sketch-map extending considerably farther north,[63] and conducted three expeditions farther still, through very difficult country, to Mount Sir Alexander[64] and Jarvis Pass. This is the farthest north yet reached by climbers. Whether there are any alpine regions beyond it is, I believe, quite uncertain.
North of the Yellowhead Pass there are no blocks of mountains to the east of the main chain, and definitely separated from it, of a character at all comparable to those found between the G.T.P. and the C.P.R.; but there is a considerable area lying just outside the limits of Mr. Wheeler’s map, and shown as a blank on Dr. Collie’s map, closely connected with the divide itself, which would certainly repay farther exploration, and is within fairly easy reach of Jasper. There are three possible lines of attack: First it may be possible to approach it from the west, by the Miette River; secondly, there is the valley of the Snaring River, which joins the Athabasca a few miles below Jasper: whatever else he may find there, all the charm of the unexpected awaits the first visitor to its mysterious upper basin. It is said to be very difficult, if not impossible, of access, but the attempt would be well worth making. Anyone contemplating it should, before starting, make the ascent of Pyramid Peak at the head of Jasper Lake, and carefully note what he sees from there. Lastly, there is the much larger Stony River,[65] which enters the Athabasca below Jasper Lake, and should provide a happy hunting-ground to a climber with topographical inclinations. The southern branch already referred to calls most urgently for attention, but higher up the main valley several fine glaciers offer tempting roads to the skyline. A pass at the head of the main Stony leads to the Smoky River, which it strikes just opposite the Chown group, and thus supplies an attractive though lengthy alternative route to the Robson region. There are some wild and striking rock peaks on the right hand of the traveller crossing this pass from Jasper, but apart from these, there is nothing beyond the Stony River of any interest to a climber.
An attempt on that remarkable mountain, the Roche Miette, is recorded in the _Canadian Alpine Journal_, ix. 141.
[Sidenote: Modes and Manners of Travel.]
Travel away from the railway, as has already been indicated, means travelling with a camp outfit and a pack-train. The business of ‘packing’ is a highly organized one, and it is a vocation which, in untrodden country at least, makes as severe demands as that of a guide, and more varied in character, on the courage and resourcefulness of those who follow it. The packers, indeed, hold a position which presents many analogies to that of guides in the Alps, and a first-rate packer, like a first-rate guide, is a treasure beyond all price. It may be as well to mention here, for the benefit of those who have not visited the Rockies, that they are a very independent set of men, and that the social distinctions which are universally taken for granted in Europe simply do not exist for them. The sooner and more completely the traveller can get himself into the same mental attitude on this point, the more pleasantly will he fare. He will also discover, if he keeps his eyes and ears open, that there is a very well-defined, unwritten code of camp manners, of which the outstanding rules are: Never grumble; never be impatient; never tell anybody to do anything, always ask him.
The usual way of making arrangements with a packer is to inform him, as long as possible beforehand, of the number of the party and the proposed duration of the trip. He then takes charge of everything, providing saddle-horses, pack-horses, tents, cooking equipment, provisions, etc., for a fixed sum per day: the only thing which the traveller is expected to provide is his bedding. In the C.P.R. district packing is now almost wholly in the hands of the Brewster Transfer Co. Ltd., whose head-quarters are at Lake Louise. They have a good reputation, and are said to provide good men. Their usual rates are--for one person $15 per day; for two persons $12.50 for each person; and $10 per day for three persons, “with liberal reduction for larger parties.” Outside the C.P.R. district packing is still a matter of individual private enterprise; some of the packers who formerly worked in the C.P.R. district have migrated to Jasper, and probably others will make it their head-quarters as time goes on; but at present the principal centre of the packers of Northern Alberta is at Lac St. Anne, near Edmonton. Their ordinary charges are about the same as those of the Brewster Company. (_N.B._--Written in 1913; charges may now be higher.)
[Sidenote: Outfit.]
A few suggestions with regard to some of the above-mentioned items may be useful.
1. Having once tried the experiment of dispensing with saddle-horses,
## partly on general ascetic principles, partly with a view to getting
into training, I have no hesitation in saying that it is a great mistake. If one keeps with the rest of the outfit,[66] it is dreary work; if one goes at one’s own time and pace, trouble arises when rivers have to be crossed--either the traveller has to wait for the outfit or the outfit for the traveller (and to check a lot of pack-horses when on the move is a tiresome matter); while it is surprisingly easy for the unwary pedestrian to lose touch with the outfit altogether, even on such a well-trodden trail as the Jasper trail in pre-railway days.
2. The traveller should make sure that one of the tents is a _teepee_.[67] During a spell of cold, wet weather (and even snow is sometimes encountered in August at quite low levels) a _teepee_ makes things much less intolerable. A packer with a large and varied experience of both summer and winter travel told me he preferred a large ordinary tent with a stove. I have no personal experience of this, but one or the other is essential. The other tents provided by the packers satisfy all ordinary requirements, but are sometimes inadequate under stress of prolonged wet weather. I once took a Whymper tent made of extra light material, which, besides being absolutely watertight, possessed two great advantages: first, it had a floor; secondly, it could be put up immediately on arriving in camp: other tents have to wait till the necessary poles can be cut down, and a good many other things have to be attended to before this can be done. The drawback to it--a serious one--was that the poles were inconveniently long for packing purposes: this might perhaps be got over by making the poles with two joints instead of one. A small Mummery tent for making a flying camp is not required so often as alpine experience would lead one to expect, but on the whole it is worth taking.
3. As to clothing, the same sort is required as in the Alps. It is well to bear in mind that one spends more time--generally much more time--‘on the trail’ than in climbing, and heavily nailed climbing boots are not very suitable for riding; they are apt to stick in the stirrups, which might easily be a source of great danger in case of a fall. Shooting boots with ordinary (not projecting) nails are much better for an ordinary day’s travel. Gloves are useful in riding through thick forest, and a silk neckerchief is some protection against mosquitoes. Fortnum & Mason, Jermyn Street, London, have a good camp boot which is also useful for this purpose.
Either a mackintosh or a suit of ‘oilies’ is indispensable for riding in wet weather. ‘Oilies’ are a more complete protection against rain, but difficult to get in and out of quickly, and appallingly hot when the character of the trail makes it necessary to dismount and walk. On the whole, a mackintosh is to be preferred.
For bedding, a couple of blankets are all that is required in fine weather; spruce boughs make a perfect mattress. But there is much to be said in favour of a camp-bed, especially if the tent has no floor to it. With an X-bed, a sleeping-bag and a blanket any weather can be faced with equanimity, and the extra weight of the bed is not a matter of importance. It is much more necessary that the packages containing one’s personal baggage should be tightly packed, compact and easy to handle, than that they should be light. A couple of suit-cases (preferably of crushed cane) _not more than 26 inches long_, hold all that is wanted for a two months’ trip, and go well on each side of a pack-saddle. A _chilamchi_[68] of the Indian type is useful, but rather unwieldy; it is easy to get a rather smaller basin (preferably _not_ enamelled) at the Army and Navy Stores, and have a leather case specially made for it.
4. Camping out is very extensively practised in Canada, and it is quite unnecessary to think of taking out any special luxuries from England in the way of provisions. Anything of that nature, also whisky of excellent quality, and cigars (good and cheap), can be obtained at the Hudson Bay Company’s Stores at Edmonton or Calgary. As to provisions generally, packers usually have a very good idea of what is wanted; but if one has any special preferences--e.g. for cocoa or coffee over tea--it is as well to mention them.
[Sidenote: Season.]
The season for climbing in Canada and weather conditions generally are, roughly speaking, similar to those in the Alps; but the season closes rather earlier, and the spell of fine weather which is so often met with in the Alps early in September does not seem to occur there. When well-trodden ground is left, it must be borne in mind that rivers are more likely to be troublesome early in the summer (i.e. till towards the end of July) than later on; but quite insignificant creeks may suddenly become impassable obstacles for a day or two at any time. Trails, moreover, which are not regularly used often deteriorate, and, as was remarked above, snowstorms sometimes make travel temporarily impossible even in August. The moral of all which is, that it is rash to try and work out cut-and-dried plans beforehand, so far as dates and times are concerned.
[Sidenote: The Annual Camps.]
No account of mountaineering in Canada would be complete which omitted to make mention of the Alpine Club of Canada, and the annual camps of its members in the mountains, which indeed have become the outstanding feature of mountaineering as practised by Canadians themselves. They are usually held towards the end of July, and last for eight or ten days. They are necessarily situated near one or other of the railways, but their area is sometimes extended by the formation of subsidiary camps, and parties for more distant expeditions are frequently formed when the camp breaks up. A climber intending to make a first acquaintance with the Rockies could not do so in a pleasanter and more profitable manner than by paying a visit to one of these camps, and for this and many other reasons he would be well advised to become a member of the club. The cordial welcome offered to English mountaineers generally, and to members of the Alpine Club in particular, must be experienced in order to be properly appreciated, and it is hardly necessary to point out that the camps give an unequalled opportunity of obtaining first-hand information from the most authoritative sources with regard to topography, new expeditions, methods of travel and similar matters. If a visit to the camp was not practicable, the traveller, as a member of the club, could procure advice and assistance from its officials and other members which would otherwise be unattainable.
[Sidenote: Access, Cost, etc.]
With regard to the journey from England, the following particulars were given in the invitation issued to members of the (English) Alpine Club in 1913:
“The steamer fare, first class, from Liverpool to Montreal is £18, 10s. each way (£11 by one-class boats).
“The cost of return ticket, first class, from Montreal to Laggan (C.P.R.) is £13. The extra charge for a berth in a sleeping-car is £6 for the double journey.
“The cost of return ticket, first class, from Montreal to Mount Robson Station (G.T.P.) is £14. The extra charge for a berth in a sleeping-car is about £6, 10s. for the double journey.
“The time occupied by the journey from Liverpool to Mount Robson or Laggan Stations is ten to eleven days.”
_N.B._--The voyage in one-class boats takes some days longer. A berth in the sleeping-car is practically indispensable. Two persons taking a ‘compartment’ can make the journey in far greater comfort at an additional expense of £2, 3s. each. The time and fares to Jasper would be rather less than to Mount Robson. The times from Liverpool to Laggan or Mount Robson Stations are short, and involve hard and continuous travelling. Full particulars, together with pamphlets, descriptive time-tables, etc., can be obtained at the London offices of the C.P.R. and the G.T.P., both in Cockspur Street, London, within one hundred yards of each other. The only alternative route to Montreal of any importance is that via New York, as to which see _Baedeker’s Canada_.
FOOTNOTES:
[36] See _Report of the Commission appointed to determine the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia_, part i. (1917). It is illustrated by numerous photographs and accompanied by many large-scale maps. A summary of it is given in the _Alpine Journal_, xxxii.
[37] _Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies_, by H. E. M. Stutfield and J. Norman Collie; _Camping in the Canadian Rockies_, by W. D. Wilcox; _Appalachia_, vols. viii. to xi.
[38] E.g. Mount Louis, see _Canadian Alpine Journal_, viii. 79, ix. 32; and _Alpine Journal_, xxxii. 68; Mount Norquay, _ibid._ viii. 134.
[39] _Canadian Alpine Journal_, i. No. 1, p. 85, v. 122.
[40] The name of the _station_ has been altered to Lake Louise, but it is known as Laggan in all the books.
[41] Cf. “A Glimpse of the Rockies,” _Alpine Journal_, xxiv. 229; _Canadian Alpine Journal_, x. 6.
[42] _Canadian Alpine Journal_, iv. 110, 142, vii. 58, 124.
[43] See, on this point, _Alpine Journal_, xxix. 95.
[44] _Canadian Alpine Journal_, v. 34, vii. 33, 48, ix. 17; Palmer, _Mountaineering and Exploration in the Selkirks_, ch. xx.
[45] _Canadian Alpine Journal_, iii. 26. See also _Geographical Journal_, xxxvii. 589, 601. Mr. Wheeler’s promised map does not seem to have materialized.
[46] _Canadian Alpine Journal_, iii. 14, 26, 147, iv. 98, vi. 103, 112, vii. 12, viii. 17, 43.
[47] _Ibid._ vii. 5, 67, viii. 34.
[48] _Ibid._ iv. 140, viii. 121.
[49] _Climbing in the Himalaya and other Mountain Ranges_, p. 144. The whole of this chapter on the Rockies is still well worth reading.
[50] Op. cit. pp. 15-16.
[51] Mr. Eaton made some new ascents in the Freshfield Range, a subdivision of group 2, in 1910. _Canadian Alpine Journal_, iii. 1.
[52] _The Canadian Rockies, New and Old Trails._ A delightful book.
[53] Op. cit., chapters xxvii.-xxix. See _Canadian Alpine Journal_, v. 84, 87.
[54] _Alpine Journal_, xxviii. 355; _Canadian Alpine Journal_, vi. 74, 84, vii. 63.
[55] Much new information as to the country round Jasper is contained in an article by Mr. M. P. Bridgland in the _Canadian Alpine Journal_, x. 70; and the recently published _Guide to Jasper Park_ (see _ibid._ 105) would probably be found very useful.
[56] As to Mount Hector, see p. 576.
[57] See his map and book, chapters xvii., xxi. and xxvi.
[58] _Canadian Alpine Journal_, iv. 92; _Old Indian Trails_, by Mrs. Schæffer.
[59] Coleman, op. cit., chapters xxx.-xli.; _Geographical Journal_, xxxvi. 57, xxxix. 223; _Alpine Journal_, xxv. 293, xxvi. 5, 382, xxvii. 329, xxx. 358 (summary of the expeditions of 1913); _Canadian Alpine Journal_, ii. part i. 1, part ii. 1, 21 (ascent of G. B. Kinney and D. Phillips), iv. 1, vi. 11-73 (the expeditions of 1913).
[60] _Canadian Alpine Journal_, vii. 63, viii. 30, 133.
[61] _Alpine Journal_, xxvi. 404; _Canadian Alpine Journal_, iv.
[62] See his map, _Geographical Journal_, xxxix. 312.
[63] _Canadian Alpine Journal_, vi. 178, 186.
[64] _Ibid._ vi. 170, 188, vii. 82, ix. 79.
[65] See Dr. Collie’s map and papers, _Alpine Journal_, xxvi, 5; _Geographical Journal_, xxxix. 223.
[66] The whole caravan--men, horses, baggage, etc.--is generally compendiously referred to as an ‘outfit.’
[67] A large Indian tent in which a fire can be kept going.
[68] Metal basin in a leather case.
INDEX
Accidents, mountaineering, causes of, 149, 256
-- -- how to deal with, 264-7
-- -- prevention of, 256-78
-- -- their effect on others, 264
Afanasief’s _100 Kaukasus Gipfel_ cited, 509, 510
Ailments, 9
Alpine Club of Canada, annual camps of the, 590
-- Ski-ing, Calendar for, 402, 403, 456-70
Alps, the Dolomites of the Eastern, 47
-- the Eastern, 201
-- the High, hints for winter equipment for, 444-6
-- -- in spring, 456-68
-- -- in winter, 442-56
-- -- snow conditions in the, 446
-- the Southern, 47
Amateur mountaineer, the, 108, 109, 134, 135, 136
-- -- improvement in his skill, 105, 106
Anchor, the, 220, 223
Anchoring on a descent, 191, 192
Andorra, 559, 560
Aneroid, 98, 445
-- the Watkin, 535
Angle of lie of snow, the, 325, 326, 328, 329
-- -- reconnoitring, 375, 376
-- of rock, 387, 388
Ankle, part played by the, in climbing, 158, 159, 289, 303
Anticipation in climbing, importance of, 157, 158
Arctic mountaineering, 497-505
Arms, use of the, in climbing, 161, 162
Association among climbers, 150
Automatic actions and adjustments in climbing, 69, 70
Autumn ski-ing, 468, 469
Avalanche ground, tactics on, 439-42
Avalanche, liability of snow to, 328
Avalanches, 273-5
-- classification of, 427, 428
-- conditions for their production, 273, 423-7
-- dangers of, 424, 425, 426, 430, 432, 433-8
-- dry powder, 428, 429
-- ground, 423, 427, 435
-- in Norway, 545
-- new wet snow, 429-31
-- old wet snow, 435-8
-- power of, 274, 428, 435, 436
-- rock, 271
-- summer snow, 438, 439
-- wind slab, 431-4
Axe, the, 91, 92
-- as an extra hand, 206, 207
-- as a third leg, 178, 207, 292
-- in descent, 208
-- on rocks, 204-8
-- on snow, 336, 337
_Baedeker’s Canada_ cited, 574, 577
-- _Norway_ cited, 536
-- _S. W. France_ cited, 570
Balaitous, the, 557
Balance climbing, 144-8, 156, 157
-- factors involved in, 28-32, 140, 149, 156, 157
Barometer. _See_ Aneroid
Bath, the hot, 5
-- in tropics, 479
-- morning, cold, 4
Bathing, 12, 13, 524, 532
Bed, portable, 99
Beginner, the, 113-6, 118
-- his choice of trainer, 114, 115
Beginners, initial practice for, 148, 152, 153; and _see under_ Rope
Behind, the rope, 215
Belay, the direct, 220, 221
-- the indirect, 221, 222
Belays, 219-25
Belloc’s _Pyrenees_ cited, 570
Benightment, 52, 53, 74, 75
Bergschrund, 317, 337
Bhutan, 527
_Bise_, the, 446
Bivouac, outfit for, 99
-- selection of a, 53
Blindness, snow, 11, 343
Blistering from sun, 11, 12, 90, 97
Blizzards, danger of, 276
Body brake, the, 196
Boils, 484, 485
Boots, 4, 80, 81, 82, 153-5
-- canvas, 155
-- care of, 81, 82
-- for the Himalaya, 534
-- for ski-ing, 402
-- nailing, 82, 83, 154, 155
-- rubber, 89
Boracic powder for the feet, 5
Boredom, 15, 16
-- of tramps over snow, 332
Bouldering, 153, 171, 183
Boum, the, 562
Brakes, 195, 196
-- for glissading, 358, 359
Breeches, 87, 88
Breithorn, ski-ing on the Zermatt, 397
Bridges, ice, 337, 338
Bridgland’s _Guide to Jasper Park_, etc., cited, 583 n.
Britain, mist and cloud in, 389, 390
-- rocks in, 388, 389
-- snow in, 342
Bruce’s _Kulu and Lahoul_ cited, 529
Bucket steps, 297
Calendar for Alpine Ski-ing, 402, 403, 456-70
Camera, the folding, 471
-- the hand, 471, 472
-- the Verascope, 478
Canadian Pacific Railway District, the, 574-81
Canteen for tropics, 487, 488
Canvas boots, 155
Capo al Dente, the, 519
Carriers in tropics, 495
Casque, the, 560
Caucasus, the, climate of, 506
-- forests of, 508
-- literature of, 509, 510
-- maps of, 515, 516
-- modes of travel in, 511, 512, 514, 515
-- mountain system of, 508
-- mountaineering in, 506-16
-- -- centres for, 512
Caucasus, mountaineering in, commissariat for, 513, 514
-- -- cost of, 516
-- -- equipment for, 512, 513
-- records of, 508
-- routes of access to, 510
-- topography and structure of, 506-9
Caulfield’s _How to Ski_ cited, 398 n.
‘Chair,’ the, 196, 197
Chalk, its peculiarities and risks, 180
Chamois, as a danger, 271
-- in relation to avalanches, 441
Chamonix Aiguilles, the, 46, 47, 277
-- granite, 146
Check, easing of a, 258-60
Checking on the rope, 259, 260
Chill, avoidance of, 85
-- risk of, 5, 6, 7, 13
Chimney climbing, 167-9
Chimneys, descent of, 191
Chocolate, 6, 445
Christiania turn, the, 401
Claws, 96, 97, 287-94
-- in glissading, 365, 366
-- in mountain ski-ing, 402, 419
-- their value, 286, 294, 513
-- theory of their use, 288, 289
-- types of, 287, 288
Cliffs, sea, 181, 182
Climbing down, 184-99
-- in combination, 209-55
Closti turn, the, 401
Clothing, 5, 11, 84-90
-- for the tropics, 488, 489
-- for women, 89, 90
-- for the Himalaya, 534
Clouds as weather portents, 57-9
-- cirrus, 58
-- cumulus, 58
-- ‘fish’, 59
-- ‘mare’s-tails,’ 58
-- stratus, 58
-- thunder, 59
Coat, the, 84, 85, 86, 87, 90
Col du Lion, the, 57
-- Theodule, the, 57
Cold, effect of, on endurance, 10, 11
Coleman’s _The Canadian Rockies, New and Old Trails_, etc., cited, 581 n., 582, 583, 584, 586
Collective confidence of party, 17, 18, 240
-- rhythm, 209, 211
Colour photography, 477
Combination, climbing in, 209-55
-- the secret of time-saving, 76
Comolo Forno, the, 559
Compass, 98
-- the radium, 52
Confidence, danger of over-, 24, 25
-- necessity of self-, for leader, 17, 238
Confusing effects of weather when on snow, 342-5
Conjunctivitis, 483
Constipation, 480, 481, 482
Continuous going, 76-8
Cooking apparatus, 98
Cornices, snow, 338-40
-- -- double, 380
-- -- reconnoitring, 377-80
Cornwall, cliff climbing in, 181
Corsica, literature of, 520
-- modes of access to, 518
-- mountaineering in, 517-21
-- -- centres for, 518, 519
-- -- cost of, 518 n.
-- -- equipment for, 517, 518
-- -- season for, 517
-- nature of climbing in, 520
-- topography and maps of, 518-21
Coughs and colds, 482
Couloirs, 268, 272
-- glissading on claws in, 365
-- reconnoitring, 382-4
-- snow in, 340-2
-- the plunging step in, 364, 365
Courage, the measure of, 261, 262
Courmayeur, weather in, 56
Cover for the axe, use of a, 349
Crabioules, the, 561
Cracks, climbing, 165, 166
-- descent of, 191
Crampons. _See_ Claws
Crevasses, 316-21, 452, 455
-- hidden, 315-22, 449
-- marginal, 309, 450
-- reconnoitring, 381, 382
-- scimitar, 310
-- systems of, 309-11
Crust, snow, 301, 331
-- effect of Föhn on, 413
-- -- -- frost on, 414
-- -- -- sun on, 415
-- -- film, 414
-- -- forms of, 410, 411
-- -- marble, 411, 414
-- -- perforated, 414
-- -- soft breakable, 410
-- -- trap, 410
-- -- unbreakable, 410, 411
Cups, drinking, 98
Cushion, rubber, 99
Cuts and scratches, 485
Cutting. _See under_ Steps
Cylindre, the, 560
Damp, risks of, 5
Dancing, as training, 4, 66, 156
-- movements analogous to those of climbing, 156, 157, 208
Danger, 26, 27, 72, 149, 152, 237, 260, 261
De Déchy’s _Kaukasus Reisen und Forschungen_ cited, 509
Descent, 42, 184-99
Detached rock, 176, 177
Diarrhœa, 481
Direction, the sense of, 345-7
Disappointment, 24
Discipline of parties, 2, 3
District, the choice of, 43-8
Dogtooth Range, the, 580
Dollfuss in May, 461
Dom, the, 459
Doubled rope, the, in descent, 192-5
-- on glaciers, 317-21
Down, climbing, 184-99
Drinks, 7, 8
Dru, the, 47, 152
Dunagiri, 529
Dysentery, 481, 482
Earth glissade, 182
Earthquakes, 277, 278
Ebnefluh, ski-work on the, 398, 459, 468
Eckenstein, Mr., crampons designed by, 92, 96, 288
-- ice-axe designed by, 92
-- on knots for Alpine ropes, 94, 95
-- on nails for boots, 83
-- on ropes for Alpine work, 93, 94, 95
Elbrus, 509
End man, dangers of his fall, 260
Equipment, for Alps, 80-8
-- for Arctic mountaineering, 498, 499
-- for Caucasus, 512-4
-- for Corsica, 517, 518
-- for Himalaya, 532-5
-- for mountain ski-ing, 402
-- for Norway, 539, 540
-- for Pyrenees, 566-9
-- for rock climbing in Britain, 88, 89
-- for Rocky Mountains, 588-90
_Ewige Schnee_, 330
Exceptional ascents, 120-2, 149
Excitement, dangers of over-, 16
Exercise, forms of preliminary, 4, 156, 158, 159, 181
Exhaustion, 26, 27
Experts, guide and amateur as, 111, 112, 118, 119
Eyes, right use of the, in climbing, 146, 147, 166, 184, 185, 186, 187, 192, 312, 313, 321, 370-396
Face-inward position in descent, 190, 191
---- in glissading, 363, 364
Face-outward position in descent, 188, 189
Face-sideways position in descent, 189, 190
Fall, 256
-- after a, 262-4
Fallibility, human, 256, 257
Fatigue, temper as a sign of, 20
Fear, 26, 27
Feet, care of the, 4, 5, 83
Fell climbers, 142
Fellowship, necessity of good, 3
Fencing as training, 4, 66
Fiescherhorn, the, 468
Finsteraarhorn, the, 442
Finsteraarjoch Pass, in winter, 397
_Firn_, 285, 330
First man on the rope, duty of the, 237-9
_Flysch_, 425
Fog. _See_ Mist
Föhn, the, 59, 60, 61, 417-22
-- effects of, on snow, 326, 328, 377, 380, 412, 413
-- in spring, 421, 422, 436
-- in winter, 418-21
-- the dry, 418, 430
-- the wet, 413, 418, 429, 430
Folgefond, the, 542
Following and leading, 217, 218
Food, the choice of, 6
-- -- for tropics, 486, 487
Foot brake, the, 195
Footing, the right, for guide and climber, 125-9
Footwork, 140, 141, 153-8, 161, 176
-- for balance climbing, 282-4
Forbes, Prof. J. D., his _Norway and its Glaciers_ cited, 536
Fourcanade, the, 556, 562, 563
Freak climbs, 182, 183
Freshfield’s _Round Kangchenjunga_ cited, 527
Freshfield and Sella’s _The Exploration of the Caucasus_ cited, 509, 515
Front, the rope in, 214, 215
Frost-bite, precautions against, 5, 288 n.
-- remedies for, 10
Frostisen, 544
Fruit ice, 8
Funicula, 254, 255
Furka, the, 464
Gabbro, 542, 543
Gabiétou, the, 560
Gaiters, 84
Galdhöpiggen, 544
Galenstock, the, 463, 464
Galmihorn, the, 459
Garhwal, 528
Gauli Hut, the, 457
Géant, the Dent du, 152, 201, 278
Geology, value of knowledge of, 425, 426
Giddiness, 9, 28-31, 182
Gjækkevarre, the, 542
Glacier falls, 311, 314
-- mills, 310
Glaciers, 279-81, 285, 308-24
-- in the Himalaya, 531
-- in New Zealand, 554
-- in Norway, 545, 546
-- in the Pyrenees, 556-62
-- in the Rocky Mountains, 586
-- in Spitsbergen, 503, 504
-- practice in ice work on, 285, 286
-- ski-ing on, in winter, 448-56
-- snow-covered, 314-22
Glacier work, 308-24
Glasses, field, 97, 98
-- for prevention of snow-blindness, 11, 97, 321, 322, 534
-- for reconnoitring, 395
Glazed rock, risks of, 170, 171, 193
Glissading, 348-69
-- alternate, 362, 363
-- arrest of, 352
-- face-inward, 363, 364
-- jumping while, 357, 358
-- on claws, 365, 366
-- -- in couloirs, 365
-- on earth, 182
-- on grass, 368, 369
-- on heather, 368, 369
-- on ice, 349-52
-- -- position for, 349-52
-- on sand, 366
-- on scree, 366-8
-- on snow, 353-66
-- on volcanic ash, 366
-- -- braking, 354, 355, 358, 359, 360
-- positions for, 353-61
-- -- steering, 355-7
-- stone tests for, 361
-- the axe brake for, 354, 358, 359
-- the foot brake for, 358, 359
-- the rope in, 361, 362
Glittertind, 544
Gloves, 10, 86, 89, 195, 258
Goats as a danger, 271
Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, the, 582-4
Grease on the face, 11, 90, 97
Gredetschthal, the, 459
Grépon, the, 47, 152, 385
Grimsel region, the, 425, 463
Grip climbing, 142, 143, 145, 174, 176
Gritstone, 180
Grove’s _The Frosty Caucasus_ cited, 509
_Grundlawinen. See_ Avalanches, ground
Gspaltenhorn, the, 447
Guide as mountaineer, the ideal, 107, 108
-- companionship of amateur and, 128, 129, 136, 137
-- nature, 123-37
Guides, Alpine, changed conditions of, 103, 104
-- as experts, 111, 112, 119
-- care for their comfort, 126, 127
-- estimation of their qualities, 53-5
-- management of, 123-37
-- misconceptions of their function, 101-3
-- question of engaging, 118-22
-- traditional idea of, 102
Guides’ books, hints as to writing up, 53-5
Gullies, 141, 142, 268
-- glissading in winter, 368
Gurla Mandhata, 528, 529
‘Half step’ trick, the, 37
Halts, 40, 77, 78, 332
-- the rope during, 251, 252
Handholds, to cut, in ice, 298
Hands, use of the, 161-7
Hat, the, 85, 89
Headaches, 9
Health, importance of, 3, 4
Heart, training and development of the, 67, 68
Height, advantages of, 71
-- the psychological effect of, 31, 32, 293
Helmet, woollen, 86
Hill-shock. _See_ Hysteria
Himalaya, the, climbing conditions in, 523, 525, 526
-- configuration of, 522, 523
-- glaciers of, 529
-- management of expedition to, 523-525
-- mountaineering in, 522-35
-- -- clothing for, 534
-- -- cost of, 531, 532
-- -- equipment for, 528, 532, 533, 535
-- -- food for, 533
-- -- hints for, 533, 534
-- -- instruments for, 535
-- -- season for, 526
-- -- use of claws in, 288 n.
-- topography of, 527-9
Hindu Khush, the, 530, 531
_Hochgebirgskalk_, 425
Holding the rope, 225-7
Holds, anatomical, 244
-- cling, 161-2
-- finger, 161
-- friction, 160, 161, 169
-- on rock and ice, practice of, 69
-- over, 162
-- press, 163, 164, 179
-- pull, 174, 177, 179
-- push, 163
-- side, 162
-- under, 162
Humours, preventable, 14-7
Hurry, the blunder of, 38, 39, 40, 76, 77, 332
Hut usages, 48-50
Hysteria, or hill-shock, 26-8
Ice, black, 285, 288, 294, 374
-- blue, 284
-- glacier, 284
-- grainy, 284
-- -- hard, 290, 291, 545
-- honeycombed, 374
-- -- rotten, 290, 294
-- -- soft, 290
-- snow, 285
Ice axe. _See_ Axe
Ice claws. _See under_ Claws
-- climbing in relation to rock climbing, 282-4
-- craft, 282-324
-- fragments, danger from falling, 275, 276
-- sky, the, 393, 394
Imitation, in collective climbing, 211-3
Incudine, the, 520
Infection of leader by party, 25, 26
Injured man, a danger to his party, 260, 261
Instruments, 57, 535
Ireland, cliff climbing in, 181, 182, 391
Joanne’s _Pyrénées_ cited, 570
Jungfrau, first winter ascent of, 397
Justedals-brae, the, 545, 546
Kamet, 529
Kasbek, 512
Kashmir and Karakoram, 530
Kellas, Dr., on Sikkim, cited, 527, 528
_Kletterschuhe_, 96, and _see_ Soles
Knee, right use of the, in climbing, 146, 160
Knickerbockers, 85
Knots for ropes for mountaineering, 94, 95, 96, 255
-- tests of, 96
Knutshultind, 544
Kumaon, 528
Lakes, the, 140, 152
-- snowcraft in, 342
Lantern, folding, 52, 98
Lava, old, 180
Leader, duties of the, 1, 6, 8, 9, 10, 13, 18, 23, 39, 43, 44, 48-55, 125, 150, 151, 237-9, 323, 332
-- guide or amateur as, 109, 111
-- qualifications for, 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 21, 25, 33, 56, 150, 151, 237, 238, 239, 321
-- responsibilities of, 2, 6, 9, 10, 16, 17, 27, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39, 111, 133, 134, 150, 151, 153, 227, 237-9, 260, 261, 263
Le Blonde’s, Mrs., _Mountaineering in the Land of the Midnight Sun_ cited, 536
Leeches, 484
Lens, 471, 473
Light, to procure a, 52
Lillienfeld ski, 398
-- system, 399, 401
Limestone, 180, 181
Loads, risks of unnecessary, 22, 75, 76
Long rope, the, 198, 199
Longstaff, Dr., on the Purcell Range, cited, 579
Loops in ropes for glacier work, 320
_Lumière autochrome_, the, 477
Lungs, training and development of the, 67, 68
Lunn’s _Cross Country Ski-ing_ cited, 398 n., 402
Lyskamm, the, 4
Malaria, 480
Maps, 98
Marble, 180
-- crust, 411, 414
Marboré, the, 557
Mascot, uses of a, 34
Matterhorn, the, 57, 112, 113, 201, 271, 272, 381, 386
Maupas, the, 562
May in the High Alps, 456-61, 463, 464
Medicine chest for tropics, 485, 486
Medicines, 100
Merzbacher’s _Aus den Hochregionen des Kaukasus_ cited, 509, 515
Mind, influence of, on the body, 14, 129, 240
Mist and cloud, uses of, 389, 390
-- dangers of, 277, 343, 346
Moine, the, 152
Mont Perdu, the, 559, 560, 561
Monte Cinto, 520
-- Corona, 519
-- d’Oro, 519
-- Padro, 519
-- Renosa, 519
-- Rosa, 446, 457, 468, 469
-- -- ski-ing on, 397
Moraines, 178, 208, 292
Mosquitoes, 480, 540
Moods, abnormal, 23-8
Mount Assiniboine, 575
-- Ball, 575
-- Beaver, 579
-- Cook, 551, 553
-- Duncan, 579
-- Edith Cavell, 575, 583
-- Fitzwilliam, 583
-- Hector, 576
-- Moloch, 577
-- Robson, 584, 585
-- Sir Sandford, 579
-- Torlesse, 553
Mountain photography, 471-8
-- sickness, 9, 10
Mountaineer, the amateur, contrasted with the guide, 103-8
-- the composite, 106
-- the moderate, 116-8
-- the true, 280
Mountaineering in winter, 397
Muffler, 86
Mumm’s _Five Months in the Himalaya_ cited, 528 n.
Mummery’s _My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus_ cited, 509
Mürren, 469
Muscular fitness, 9, 65, 66
Nails, special, for climbing boots, 82, 83, 154
Nanda Devi, 529
Napes ridges, the, 152
Natives, management of, 494, 495
Nepal, 528
Nerve, 70
-- exhaustion, 9, 26, 27
Nerves, 68, 69
_Névé_, 285, 330, 335, 448, 465, 470
Neve’s _Picturesque Kashmir_ cited, 530 n.
New Zealand, flora and fauna of, 553, 554
-- glaciers in, 554
-- guides for the Alps of, 549
-- mountains of, 550, 551, 555
-- routes to, 548, 549
-- the Southern Alps of, 548-55
-- topography and structure of, 551-3
-- weather of, 550
Night dangers. _See_ Benightment
Night, hints for walking at, 51-3
Norway, glaciers of, 540, 541, 542, 543
-- guide books and literature, 536, 537
-- local conditions in, 544-7
-- mountaineering in, 536-47
-- -- equipment for, 539, 540
-- -- expense of, 538, 539
-- -- guides for, 540, 541, 542
-- -- season for, 537
-- mountains of, 542-4
-- routes of access to, 538
-- topography and structure of, 542-4
Norway and Sweden, wind-swept snow in, 408
Numbers suitable for parties, 34, 35
Oberaarjoch, the, 463, 464
Oberland, the, crossed on ski, 397
-- its opportunities and characteristics, 45, 46
-- weather in the, 57
Obstinacy, hysterical, 28
Old age, climbing in, 73
Oppenheim’s _New Climbs in Norway_ cited, 536
Order, the, on the rope, 227-36
-- of moving on the rope, the, 236, 237; and _see under_ Rope
Outfit for the Alps, 91-100
Outram’s _In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies_ cited, 574, 581
Overhang, in descent, 194, 195
Pace, adjustment of, to the task, 74-9
-- setting the, 37
Packe’s _Guide to the Pyrénées_ cited, 570
Paglia Orba, 521
Palmer’s _Mountaineering and Exploration in the Selkirks_ cited, 578 n., 579
Panic, 27, 272
Parasites, body, 484
Passing ahead, 37, 38
Paulcke, 397
Pegs and aids, 96, 200-3
Pennines, characteristics of the, 46
Perdighero, 561
Persistence in uncertain weather, 63, 64
Perversity, mountain, 267-72
Photography, mountain, 471-8
-- -- choice of subjects, 475-7
-- -- equipment for, 471-5
-- -- in colour, 477
-- -- stereoscopic, 477-8
Pic d’Albe, 562
-- d’Astazou, 560
-- de Bécibéri, 559
-- d’Enfer, 557
-- Long, 559, 561
-- du Midi d’Ossau, 556, 557
-- Moulières, 562
-- du Munia, 561
-- de Néthou, 559, 562
-- de la Pique, 562
-- de Pinède, 561
-- du Port d’Oo, 561
-- des Posets, 559, 562
-- de Salenques, 562
Pitons. _See under_ Pegs
Port de Venasque, 562
Positions in descent, 187-91
Powder snow, 326, 327, 405-11
-- -- effect of sun on, 408-11
-- -- -- wind on, 407, 408
-- -- the ideal ski-ing surface, 406
-- -- reconnoitring, 374
-- -- in spring, 412-7, 430
-- -- in winter, 411, 412
Preparations, psychological, for ascent, 129, 130
Punta di Capella, 520
Purcell Range, the, 579-80
Putties, 89, 125, 289
Pyramid Peak, 586
Pyrenees, the, 556-71
-- centres for climbing, 560
-- huts and inns, 566
-- literature of the, 570
-- maps of, 564-6
-- mountaineering in, 556, 557, 563
-- -- cost of, 569
-- -- equipment for, 566-9
-- -- guides for, 563, 564
-- topography and structure of, 557-563
Quairat, the, 561
Quarries, scrambling in, for practice, 181
Quartz, its peculiarities and risks, 179, 180
Rabot’s _Au Cap Nord_ cited, 542
Reach, advantages of, in climbing, 71
Reconnoitring, 370-96
-- angle on snow, 375-7
-- couloirs, 382-4
-- glaciers, 311-4, 381, 382
-- the half-seen, 390, 391
-- ice, 374, 381, 382
-- importance of, 370-3
-- ridges, 386, 387
-- rock, 384
-- rock faces, 384-6
-- rocks in Britain, 388-90
-- slabs, 387, 388
-- snow cornices, 377-80
-- snow surface conditions, 374, 375
-- the unseen, 391-6
-- wind and snow signs, 380, 381
Réquin, the, 152
Rescue parties, 266, 267
Rhone Valley, the upper, 424
Rhythm, balance, 144, 156, 157
-- collective, 209-11
-- of movement, importance of, 140, 141, 143, 145, 148, 156, 157
-- of step, importance of, 39, 40, 41, 76, 77, 78, 79, 145, 148
Rib riding, 169
Ring, use of the, 193
-- risks of the, 194, 198
Ringworm, 484
Ripple mark, 407
Roche Miette, the, 587
Rock avalanche, 271
Rock climber, the good, 138, 146-9, 171
Rock climbing, 138-208
-- -- in relation to ice climbing, 282-4
-- -- development of, 138-44
Rock sky, the, 393
Rocks, knowledge of structure of, 138
-- in Britain, 388, 389
Rocky Mountains, access to the, 574, 591
-- -- literature of the, 574, 586
-- -- maps of the, 576, 579, 581, 585, 586
-- -- minor ranges of the, 580
-- -- modes and cost of travel in the, 587-8
-- -- mountaineering in the, 572-91
-- -- -- guides and equipment for, 578, 588-90
-- -- topography of the, 572-87
Rope, best handgrip on the, 225
-- carrying the, 253
-- choice of the, 93-4
-- coiling the, 246, 252, 253
-- in collective climbing, 213-7
-- danger of abuse of the, 216, 217
-- drying the, 253
-- first man on the, 237-9
-- frequent examination of the, necessity for, 253
-- on ice, 305-8
-- kinks in the, 253
-- length of the, 253, 254
-- management of the, 246-55
-- order of moving on the, 236-7
-- order on the, 227-36
-- -- on difficult or new ascents and descents, 228
-- -- on direct ascents and descents, 227, 228
-- -- on easy ascents and descents, 228
-- -- on traverses, 229-32
-- -- with beginners, 233-6
-- right use of the, in descent, 191-9
-- -- on snow, 335-7
-- second man on the, 239-45
-- third man on the, 245-6; and _see under_ Doubled, Knots, Long, Funicula, and Halts
“Rope-riding,” 217
Rosenlaui, 461
Ross’s _A Climber in New Zealand_ cited, 554
Rubber soles, 155, 182
Rucksack, the, 5, 91
Rulten, 545
Running as training, 4
Russell’s _Grandes Ascensions des Pyrénées_ cited, 570
-- _Souvenirs d’un Montagnard_ cited, 570
Safety-pins, 85, 86
Sandstone, risks and peculiarities of, 180
Sark, the island of, cliff climbing on, 181
Schaeffer, Mrs., her _Old Indian Trails_ cited, 584 n.
_Schneebrett. See_ Wind slab
Schrader, M., on the Pyrenees, quoted, 557
Scotland, cliff climbing in, 181, 182
Scottish mountains, snow craft on, 342
Scree, 178, 179
-- glissading on, 366, 368
-- in relation to ski-ing, 426
Sea cliffs, 181, 182
Sealskins for ski-ing, 402, 449
Season, habit of the, 62, 63
Second man on the rope, the, duty of the, 239-45
-- -- -- in case of accident, 262, 263
Selkirk mountains, the, 577-9
_Séracs_, 275, 301, 313, 335
Shirts, 85, 88
Signals, code of rescue, 51, 266
Sikkim, 527
Silence, dangers of, 18, 20, 51, 238
-- uses of, 23, 240
Simla Hill States, the, 529
Sitting glissading, 360, 361
Skagastölstind, 542, 544
Skating movements, analogous to those of climbing, 156
_Skavla_, 408
Ski, mountaineering on, 397-470
-- Lillienfeld, 398
-- for mountain work, 402
-- for summer work, 64, 397, 469, 470
Ski-ing in the High Alps, 399, 400
-- Lillienfeld system of, 399, 401
-- Norwegian style of, 399
-- technique of, 398-401
-- turns, 400, 401
-- Zdarsky’s system of, 398
Skin diseases, 483
Skipping as training, 4, 66
Sky, ice as affecting its tint, 393, 394
-- rock as affecting its tint, 393
-- snow as affecting its tint, 392, 393
Skye, climbing in, 152
Slab climbing, 142, 143, 166, 167, 387, 388
Slate, its peculiarities and risks, 179
Sleeping sack, 99, 498, 499, 513, 532, 567, 589
Sleeplessness, 483
Slides, photographic, 473, 474
Sling for axe, 93, 298
Slings, rope, 193, 194
Slingsby’s _Norway the Northern Playground_ cited, 536
Slips, how to accept, 41, 42
Smoking, 89
Snake-bite, 484
Snow a bar to starting, 63, 64
-- avalanches, 423-42
-- bridges, 337
-- cornices, 338
-- craft, 16, 325-46
-- -- for ski-ing, 403, 404
-- crusted, 331
-- -- reconnoitring, 374
-- granular, 416
-- in couloirs, 340-2
-- new, risks of, 327
-- pink, 546
-- powdery, 326, 327; and _see under_ Powder snow
-- the rope and axe on, 335-7
-- sky, the, 392, 393
-- slides, danger of, 273-5
-- slopes, reconnoitring, 375-7
-- -- security of, 329, 333-5
-- soft, its risks and difficulties, 330-332
-- spring, for ski-ing, 412-7
-- steps, 333, 334
-- summer, for ski-ing, 422, 423
-- travail, 330-3
-- winter, for ski-ing, 411, 412
Snow-blindness, 11, 343
Snow-line, the, 459
Snow-water, its supposed danger, 8
Social composition of a party, 32-6, 109, 110, 150
Socks, 4, 5, 10, 83, 87, 88, 89, 155, 156
Soles, hard, 153, 154
-- rubber, 155, 182
-- soft, 154, 155, 171, 179, 284
Solitary climbing, 151, 152
-- -- unjustifiable on snow or ice, 315
Soum de Raymond, 560
Spectacles. _See under_ Glasses
Spender and Llewellyn Smith’s _Through the High Pyrenees_ cited, 570
Spitsbergen, coast of, 500-2
-- glaciers of, 501, 502, 503, 504
-- interior of, 502-4
-- modes of access to, 497, 498
-- mountaineering in, 497-505
-- -- cost of, 505
-- mountains of, 502-4
Spring in the High Alps, 456-68
-- snow for ski-ing, 412-7
-- Time-table for ski-ing, the, 466-8
Springing the rope, 197, 198
Stances, on rock, 218, 219, 223-7, 246, 247
-- on snow, 336, 337
-- on ice, 298, 306, 307
Stedtind, 544
Stemming turn, the, 400, 401
Step-cutting practice, 182
Steps, cutting, 294-302
-- using, 302-5
Stereoscopic photography, 477, 478
Stick, use of the, in ski-ing, 399, 400, 401, 442, 450, 454
Stimulants, their use, 7, 8
-- -- in the tropics, 487
Stockings, 83, 86, 155
Stomach, care of the, 4, 5, 86, 479, 480, 482
Stones, dangers of falling, 250, 251, 268-73
-- reconnoitring couloirs for, 382-4
-- -- faces for, 386
Storm Mountain, 575
Strahlegg Pass, crossing in winter, 397
Strandaatind, 543
Strata, rock, importance of acquaintance with, 383-5, 388, 425, 426
Stutfield and Collie’s _Climbs and Explorations in the Canadian Rockies_, cited, 575 n., 580 n., 581
Subconsciousness, sphere of, in mountaineering, 69
Sulitelma, 544
Summer ski. _See under_ Ski
Sun, dangers of, 11
Sunburn, 90, 97
Sunstroke, 12, 482
Sutherlandshire, cliff climbing in, 181
Sweater, 86, 88
Sweet-stuffs, value of, 6, 7
Swimming as training, 66
Taillon, the, 557, 560
Teeth, care of the, 479, 480, 482, 483
Tehri Garhwal, 529
Telemark turn, the, 400, 401
Temper of mountaineering party, the, 19-23
Tennis as training, 4
Tents, 99, 513; and _see_ Equipment
-- for tropics, 491-3
-- Mummery, 492, 499, 533
-- _teepee_, 588
-- Whymper, 491, 532
Thawing of snow, the, 409, 415, 416
Thigh brake, the, 195, 196
Third man on the rope, duty of the, 245-6
Thirst, 7, 8
Thunderstorms, danger of, 276
Tirich Mir, 531
Tour de Marboré, 560
Tourist, the mountaineer, 112, 113, 118
Trade goods for tropics, 494, 495
Training, 65-73
Trap crust, 410
Tricouni nails for boots, 82, 83
Tripod for camera, 472, 474
Tropical diseases, 480, 481
-- mountaineering, 479-96
-- -- equipment for, 486-93
-- -- health in, 479-86
-- -- management of expedition for, 493-6
Tryfan, the buttresses of, 152
U.H.U. Stollen nails for boots, 82
Underwear, 88, and _see_ Equipment
Unsound rock, 173-9
Unusual rock 179-83
Urbachthal, 424, 457
Val d’Evoléna, 46
Vanesta packing-case, the, 493, 494, 532
Verascope camera, the, 478
Vertigo, 28-31
Vignemale, the, 557, 561
Waistcoat, the, 85
Wales, cliffs in, 142, 152, 181, 182, 391
-- North, snowcraft in, 342
Walking as training, 4
-- manners, 36-41
-- notes on hill-, 41-3
Warmth, the conservation of, 5
Warning, to give, 257, 258
Water-bottles, 98
Waterproof cape, 86
Weather, the, 56-64
-- alternating, 44, 45
-- confusing, 342-5
-- evil, 276, 277
-- signs, 60-2
Weight handicaps, 75, 76
Wet rock, risks of, 169, 170
Wetterhorn, the, 456, 457
-- -- first winter ascent of, 397
Wheeler’s _Selkirk Range_, etc., cited, 577
White’s _Sikkim and Bhutan_ cited, 527
Wilcox’s _Camping in the Canadian Rockies_ cited, 575 n.
Will, function of, in climbing, 68
Wind, an enemy, 11, 258, 276, 343
-- a friend, 277, 380, 381
-- as weather portent, 59-60
-- effect of, on snow, 326
-- protection against, 5
Windboard, 407, 408, 432
Wind ‘signs,’ 380, 381
Wind slab, 432, 433
Wine, 7
Winter conditions in the High Alps, 442-56
-- mountaineering, 397
-- snow for ski-ing, 411, 412
Woman mountaineers, dress for, 89, 90
Wood-chopping as training, 4
Young climbers, care of, 13, 14
Zermatt, weather at, 56, 381
Zinal Rothhorn, 446, 447, 462
PRINTED BY MORRISON AND GIBB LIMITED EDINBURGH
Transcriber’s Notes
Obvious errors or omissions in punctuation have been corrected.
Page 78: “when the deterioriation” changed to “when the deterioration”
Page 159: “changing but steelly arch” changed to “changing but steely arch”
Page 333-334: “possibility of the i consumption” changed to “possibility of the consumption”
Page 425: “The hard ‘Hochgebirgsalk,’” changed to “The hard ‘Hochgebirgskalk,’”
Page 564: “Ministère de l’Interieur” changed to “Ministère de l’Intérieur”
Page 580: The footnote 2 _Ibid._ v. 20, 44, 82. was removed from the page because it has no corresponding marker in the text.
Page 589: “ordinary’s day’s travel” changed to “ordinary day’s travel”
In the index, “d’Astazon” changed to “d’Astazou”