Part 18
If either the dealer or the other player order the card up and fail to get three or more tricks, he is euchred--that is, his adversary scores two.
Suppose the first player passes, not, in his own estimation, being strong enough to make three tricks, the dealer can, if he likes, take the card and put one of his own out, but if he fails to score he is euchred.
If they both pass, the first player may change the trump, and the dealer is compelled to play. If, however, the former does not score he is euchred.
If he passes for the second time the dealer can alter it, the same penalty being enforced should he not score.
If they both pass for the second time, the round is over, and the first player begins to deal.
If trumps are led, and you only have _left bower_, you must play it, as it is considered a trump.
THREE-HANDED EUCHRE.
Fifteen cards are dealt in this game, but the rules are exactly the same as in two-handed euchre.
There are, however, a few differences in the tactics. If one player has scored four points, and the other two players two each, it is allowable for the two latter to help each other to prevent the player with the four tricks from winning.
FOUR-HANDED EUCHRE.
In this game the players go two and two, being partners, the same as in Whist.
The game is won when the combined tricks taken by a player and his partner amount to five.
If all pass in the first round, the first player is allowed to alter trumps; if he does not care to do so, the second, then the third, and lastly the fourth.
If one should fail to score, having ordered up the card, he and his partner are euchred, and their opponents count two.
Should one player be exceedingly strong, he can say, "I play a lone hand," whereupon his partner throws up his hand, and the _lone hand_ plays against the other two.
If the single player gets all five tricks he counts three, if three or four tricks, he counts only one, and if two, or less, he is euchred.
There is yet another variation to this game, and one that generally meets with approval.
A blank card is taken and on it is written "Joker." This card always counts highest in the pack whatever suit may happen to be trumps.
If "Joker" should be the turn-up card, the dealer has the privilege of naming any suit he likes for trumps.
* * * * *
VINGT-UN.
Of all round card games, there is not one more deservedly popular than the one so well known as Vingt-Un (_i.e._, Twenty-one). Although much of the success attending it depends upon chance, the exercise of no small amount of care and judgment is required by the players, in consequence of which the real interest of the game is greatly intensified.
Six, eight, or, indeed, as many persons as like may join in it. A whole pack of cards is required, and the value attached to them is the same as in Cribbage.
Tens and court cards count as ten each. The ace may either be valued as one or as eleven, to suit the convenience of the holder, and the rest of the cards as usual. The cards are shuffled and cut as in Whist, and to each player a certain number of counters is given. The dealer then gives one card, face downwards, all round, including himself. The players, looking at the cards, each place in front of them a stake, consisting of one or more counters, the amount of each depending entirely upon the choice of the players.
Beginning at the elder hand a second card is then distributed to each. Before proceeding further the dealer may, if so inclined, "challenge the board," receiving or paying from all whose hands are less or more than his own, up to twenty. Should he not feel justified in taking such a step, he puts the question, "Do you stand?" to each player in turn, the winners in the game being the players who simply make twenty-one, neither more nor less. The answers to this question should not be given without due consideration.
The players who feel that they may with safety take one card, or even two or three cards, to enable them to make up the necessary number, receive any number they ask for from the dealer, while those whose number already is so close upon _twenty-one_ that they think it safer to stand, say so.
It sometimes happens that one of the two cards given in the first instance to a player is _an ace_, and the other a _ten_, or a _court card_. This being the case, the owner of them has reason to congratulate himself on his good fortune, because the two cards combined make what is called a _natural_, and unless the dealer also has exactly _twenty-one_, he must pay double stakes to the possessor of the natural, who, by reason of its having fallen to him, becomes the next dealer. When the dealer himself, however, is equally fortunate in having a natural he receives double stakes from all the players and single from the ties. All players having either declined the offer of additional cards, or having received as many as they wish, the dealer turns up his two cards, and either _stands_ with them as they are, or takes what cards he likes from the stock on the table. If he should take too many he pays all the standing players the amount of the stakes they made, and to those who have _naturals_, or cards amounting to twenty-one, whatever they may be, he pays double stakes.
Supposing any player's first and second cards should be alike, he may divide them and place a stake on both, regarding each as a separate hand, and draw cards accordingly, to make _two_ twenty-ones instead of one.
At the beginning of a game a player is at liberty to sell his deal if he should please to do so.
When it happens that the dealer on taking his second card supplies himself with a natural, the round is considered at an end, and he is entitled at once to double stakes from all the players, before supplying them with any additional cards.
On looking at the second card dealt, a player should announce the fact directly when he has a natural, and be paid for it at once, before the dealer has taken his own second card.
Sometimes a dealer takes advantage of his right to insist upon all the players doubling their stakes, and especially does he assert his claim to take this step when his first card is an ace or a tenth card, or when he considers the stakes offered are not as high as they should be. Another privilege belonging to the dealer is what is termed the brulet, which consists of the top and bottom cards of the pack, after it has been cut and shuffled. Before beginning to deal, the dealer may take these two cards, and should they united constitute a natural, every player must pay him double stakes. The cards are then recut and the proper deal is made. On the other hand, he is not compelled to stand by the brulet; when he has supplied every one with the cards they require, he may add as many as he chooses to his own pair.
* * * * *
SPECULATION.
In playing the famous game of Speculation a full pack of fifty-two cards is used, the value of each card being the same as at Whist.
Either counters or halfpennies may serve for stakes, an equal number of which must be allotted to all, the pool being provided by contributions from each player. After cutting for deal the owner of the lowest card deals out three cards to each player, one at a time, face downwards, and no one must on any account look at what has been given him.
The top card of the remaining pack is then to be the trump, and this card the dealer may either keep himself or sell to the highest bidder, making it thus an object of speculation.
The player on the left of the possessor of the winning card then turns up his top card, and if it happen not to be a trump the next player turns up, and so on, until a higher trump than the first make its appearance, when the new comer takes the place of its predecessor, and, if not retained by its owner, is awarded to the highest bidder. If the card be not a trump, but only an ordinary one, it may be beaten by the highest card that makes its appearance of the same suit or by a trump.
At the close of every round the pool is won by the player who holds the highest card of the trump suit. Should the ace of trumps be turned up, the hand is, of course, at an end, the owner of it being the winner.
The game is well named, for the buying and selling business is frequently carried on to a very considerable extent. Sometimes the players will sell their whole hand to each other, or perhaps a single card on the chance of their proving winners.
Although the above method is the most common way of playing, slight variations are frequently made. For instance, an extra hand is dealt by many players and placed in the middle of the table for pool; at the end of the round this hand is examined, and if a better card is found in it than that belonging to the winner, the pool is left undisturbed, and added to the next new pool, making it, of course, double in value. Another variation is, that any player who may turn up a knave or a five of any suit excepting trumps shall pay one counter to the pool.
In order to play well at Speculation great judgment must be used, and also the memory must be in full exercise, but when once thoroughly understood and appreciated there is no game superior to it for a Christmas gathering, and almost any number of players may join in it.
* * * * *
NAPOLEON.
This game, though comparatively new, is exceedingly interesting, and one that hitherto has always proved to be very popular as a lively and stirring round game.
Like Speculation, it is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards, and as the shuffling of them is of great importance, it is advisable to be supplied with two packs, as at Whist.
The pool is started by contributions from each player, the dealer giving double value. Five cards are then distributed to each player and held in the hand; as at Whist, it being necessary for the owner of them to ascertain whether they are good or otherwise.
The player to the left of the dealer then declares how many tricks he will guarantee to take, or whether he would prefer to be passed once, owing to the weakness of his hand.
He may promise to take one, two, three, or four tricks; but unless he should declare _Nap_, which means that he is able to take all five tricks, the next player is questioned, and so on, until Nap has ultimately been proclaimed by some one. Should no player declare _Nap_, the one declaring to take the highest number of tricks leads off.
The stand player, as he is called, then plays against every one else; he leads the game, and his first card decides what suit shall be trumps. All the other players try to prevent him from making the tricks which he declared to take, because, if he should fail, the payments will have to be made from him to them. Should he succeed, however, they pay him; and in the event of his making _Nap_, he receives double stakes from every one of the company.
A player revoking is Napoleoned, which means that he must pay five tricks to the stand hand, and the cards are played over again.
* * * * *
CRIBBAGE.
This game is played with an ordinary Whist pack, and it is won by the player who first scores sixty-one points. These points are marked on what is called a cribbage-board. The board may be placed either across or lengthways between the players.
A player must begin to score from the end where his sixty-first point is, and begin at the outside edge. Two pegs are given to each player to score with, and he uses them as follows:--
Supposing his first score to be four, he places a peg in the fourth hole; then if his next score be three, he marks it off from the position of the first peg, and sticks the second peg in the third hole farther on.
[Illustration: Cribbage Board.]
If his next score be eight, say, he counts from the second peg eight holes, and there sticks the peg, and so on. By this method confusion is avoided, and the players are able to check one another's scores. Generally, the pegs of the different players vary in colour, but this is not necessary, though one player must never touch his opponent's half of the board.
The court cards and tens rank equally, and the other cards according to their number of pips. Aces are counted lowest.
_The Game._
The cards having been shuffled, the non-dealer cuts, but does not place the undermost half on the uppermost, as in Whist, but leaves the pack divided into two parts on the table. From the undermost part the dealer then deals five cards each, beginning with his adversary. The remaining cards are placed on the other heap, and the pack remains undisturbed until the crib cards are put out. In the first hand of a new game, the non-dealer counts three at starting, as a sort of set-off against the possession of crib by the dealer.
Both players then look at their hands and throw out two cards, the dealer throwing out first, and the cards being face downwards.
The non-dealer then again cuts the cards, but the number cut must be more than two, after which the dealer takes the top card of the heap left on the table, the non-dealer replaces the cards he cut, and the dealer puts the top card, which is thrown face upwards on the whole.
The two cards thrown out by each player and the turn-up card form the crib, which belongs to the dealer. If a knave be the turn-up, the dealer counts "two for his heels." The turn-up card is reckoned in making up the score of either player, as well as of the crib. The non-dealer then begins by playing a card, the value of which he calls out.
Suppose the dealer to have in his hand a queen, knave, and five, and the non-dealer a seven, eight, and queen, and that the turn-up is four; then the non-dealer plays his queen, and cries "ten;" the dealer plays his queen, and cries "twenty," scoring two for a pair, because a court card counts ten.
The first player then puts down his knave and cries "thirty." As his is the nearest attained to thirty-one, and the dealer has no ace, he cries "Go," and the first player scores one hole.
Each player's hand is then counted up, the elder one scoring four--two for each fifteen; and the dealer two for his fifteen, made up by a seven and eight.
If the knave in either hand be the same suit as the turn-up, the holder of the card scores "one for his nob." The crib is added up by the dealer, and the game goes on.
If in trying to get near thirty-one in the beginning a player can make fifteen, he counts two. If a player gets exactly thirty-one he counts two.
The hands are counted up as follows:--
For knave turned up (heels) 2 points. For sequence of three or four cards 3 or 4 " For a flush, that is, three cards of same suit 3 "
For a full flush, when cards in hand and turn-up are of same suit 4 points. For every fifteen, as 6 and 9; 10, 3, and 2; 7 and 8, court card and 5, &c. 2 " For a pair (two of a sort, as 2 threes, 2 fours, &c.) 2 " For a pair royal (three of same sort) 6 " For a double pair royal, or four of same sort 12 " For knave of trumps in hand (nob) 1 "
If a player has in his hand, say, six, seven, and eight, and the turn-up is eight, he will count that two separate sequences, and score three for each.
The non-dealer always counts up first. This counting up is called the "show," and the first show is very important at the end of the game, as a player may just get sixty-one points and win. The dealer may also have sixty-one, but as his show has not been the first it does not count.
Should the dealer misdeal, and not discover the mistake before either of the hands is taken up, his opponent counts two, and a fresh deal must be made. If, during the deal the non-dealer expose any one of his cards to view, the dealer has the option of dealing again, without, however, looking at his own cards. If the dealer deal more than five cards, his adversary counts two, and a new deal takes place, the same penalty being enforced if he give less than five cards.
THREE-HANDED CRIBBAGE.
The theory of Three-handed Cribbage is the same as that in Cribbage, which we have already described. It is played, as its name indicates, by three people instead of by two. The board must be triangular in shape, containing three sets of holes of sixty each and the additional game hole. Each player has to fight for himself alone, and has, therefore, two antagonists to combat with instead of one, as in the ordinary game.
Five cards are dealt to each player, after which an extra card is laid down to form the commencement of the crib. To this card each player adds one of his own, the result being that the sixteen cards are equally divided among the three players and the crib. The player who first succeeds in reaching the sixty-first hole is the winner of the game, and is entitled to double the stakes which are apportioned to him by his two less fortunate companions.
FOUR-HANDED CRIBBAGE.
In this variety of the game four persons play in partnerships of two each, as at Whist. Sixty-one constitute the game, still it is very usual to go twice round the board, the number of game in that case being 121.
Before beginning to play two of the four players are chosen to have the management of the score, and between them the board is placed, because upon them only devolves the duty of moving the pegs. The other two players may not even assist in counting.
After cutting and dealing five cards to each player, the dealer places the remainder of the pack on his left hand. One card is then given by each person to form the crib, which, when complete, belongs to the dealer.
In contributing to the crib, the choice of the card given depends upon whether the crib belongs to the player and his partner or to their opponents. Fives are the best cards to give to one's own crib, therefore they should never be given to the antagonists. Aces and kings should be avoided; low cards are the best for the purpose.
The play then begins until all the sixteen cards are played out. Fifteens, sequences, pairs, &c., are reckoned in the usual way. Should either player be unable to come in under thirty-one, he declares it to be a "go," and the play belongs to his left-hand neighbour. No small cards must be kept up which would come in under a penalty.
Great care is required in playing this game of Four-handed Cribbage, as the learner will soon discover.
In leading, threes and fours are the best cards to select. Five is a bad lead, as also are ones and nines. The second player must be careful as to pairing, also he must try to avoid playing too closely on: though in some cases by doing so the adversary is tempted to form the sequence. He will learn in time to discriminate when it is wise to play on. If he can make fifteen it is generally better play than pairing the card led.
The object of the third player should be to make the number below twenty-one, in order to help his partner to gain the end hole for the "go" or the two for thirty-one.
The fourth man who in the first round is the last player will do wisely to hold aces or low cards for the purpose, especially when it is necessary to score a few holes in play, or when the only chance of securing game is to play out.
The hand being played out the different amounts are pegged, crib included, the one who led off scoring first.
As a rule the amount of points from each hand is seven, and four or five from the crib.
* * * * *
RANTER GO ROUND.
No game that we can mention surpasses the popular one of Ranter Go Round for real interest and excitement. It is said to have been first played in Cornwall, but to us it signifies very little whether it originated at Land's End or at John o' Groat's; the matter of the greatest interest is that it is a first-rate game for a winter evening. First of all, each player is provided with three counters, or lives, as they are called, and the object of the game consists in trying to see which player will succeed in keeping his lives the longest.
An ordinary pack of fifty-two cards is then shuffled, and dealt out one by one to each player.
The players look at their cards, and the one on the left of the dealer, if he thinks his card is too low, has the option of changing with his left-hand neighbour, who again may change with his left-hand neighbour, and so on till the dealer gets the low card, and as he has no one with whom he can exchange he is allowed to take for it the top card of the pack. The players then turn their cards face upwards on the table, and the possessor of the lowest card, aces being counted lowest, has to forfeit one of his lives.
The game thus goes on until all the players are out but one, who is declared the winner.
If a player's card be demanded by his right-hand neighbour, whose card is higher than the one he gave in exchange, he _stands_, or, in other words, refuses to change with his left-hand neighbour, knowing that he is safe for that round, because at any rate one card lower than his own is out. If two players have cards of the same value, and these cards are lowest, the player who turned his up last has to lose a life.
Players begin turning up their cards from the one on the left of the dealer No player may exchange more than once.