Part 9
Small Gas Balloons are made of thin sheet india-rubber or gutta-percha, or tissue paper; larger ones are made of oiled silk. Cut gores of the material to be used sufficient in number when fastened together, the sides of each gore overlapping the gore fastened to it, to form a globe of the desired size with pear-shaped ends. Join the gores together, so as to make them completely air-tight; when the heavier materials are used they should be sewn together, and then covered with glue or thin varnish. At the lower end of the balloon insert a tube, and tie all the narrow tips of the gores firmly round it. Cover all with a solution made of india-rubber dissolved in naphtha and turpentine, and over the balloon place a net bag that has been previously made of the proper size and shape.
The gas with which the balloon is to be filled is made in the following manner:--Put a pound of granulated zinc or iron filings into two quarts of water in a stone jar, and add gradually a pint of sulphuric acid. Have a tube of glass or metal run through the bung with which the jar is corked, and after taking the materials out of doors, fill the balloon by connecting this tube with the tube already placed at its mouth. When the balloon is filled, tie its neck very tightly, and it will rise into the air. Common coal-gas may be used when it can be obtained. A small car made of some light material may be attached to the netting which goes over the balloon.
Soap-bubbles inflated with gas may be made in the following manner:--Fill a bladder with hydrogen gas, adapt a tobacco-pipe to the mouth of the bladder, and dip the bowl of the pipe into soap and water; then press the bladder, and bubbles will be duly formed, which floating away will at once rise in the air.
Toy balloons ready to be filled with hydrogen gas may be now purchased at many toy-shops, or of philosophical instrument-makers.
GERMAN BALLS.
Luck and skill combined in about equal degrees make the principal charm of this game, which is a very simple one, and which in many respects resembles the game of marbles known as "Die Shot."
The game may be played equally well in-doors on a carpeted floor or out of doors on a lawn, or any other level surface. The materials required are a number of balls, and a larger ball shaped as a die with eight sides, numbered respectively 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. The die is placed on the ground with the figure 8 downwards, and the players, each being supplied with a ball, bowl alternately at the die from some point at a distance from the die to be agreed upon. If the die is missed, nothing is scored, and in some places the player who misses pays one to a pool. If the die is hit, the player whose ball hit it scores the number on the side of the die which remains uppermost.
Under some rules each player puts a stake into a pool, and he who attains the highest score in a certain number of throws wins the pool. If, however, any player should succeed in turning the die so that the number 8 remains uppermost, he takes the pool at once, and a new game is then commenced.
GERMAN BILLIARDS.
This is a game played with balls on a board on which is a complicated arrangement of pins, hoops, holes, recesses, and cups, the holes, recesses, and cups in which are variously numbered. The balls are propelled by means of a spring fitted into one side of the board, and the scores are in accordance with the numbers marked in the respective holes, recesses, and cups that the balls fall into after wandering through the many pins and hoops that are fixed all over the board.
[Illustration: German Billiards.]
HAT MEASUREMENT.
The practice known as Hat Measurement has sprung up owing to the fact that very few people either have but very little idea of the probable height of very common objects, or if they know the actual height in inches of those objects, are unable to demonstrate that height. The judgment is very frequently tested by asking the company present to mark on a wall about the height of an ordinary chimney-pot hat; and in the majority of cases, upon a hat being actually brought in, it will be found that the height marked is sufficient for at least a hat and a half.
HOMEWARD BOUND.
_See_ "Patchesi."
HYDRAULIC DANCER.
Make a little figure out of a piece of cork, pith, or some equally light material; place in the figure a small hollow cone of thin leaf brass; then set the figure on any water-jet or small fountain, and it will remain suspended on the top of the water, and will jump, dance, and move about in a very amusing manner. A hollow ball of thin copper, placed on a jet or fountain in a similar way, will remain suspended, turning round and spreading the water gracefully about it.
IMMOVABLE CARD.
Upon the face of it, and on first thoughts, it would appear to be the easiest possible thing to blow over an ordinary visiting card placed on a table, provided it be not secured in any mechanical manner. If a visiting card is neatly turned down at the narrow edges, about a quarter or a third of an inch, so that the edges turned down are at right-angles with the remainder of the card, and the card be then placed on the turned down edges, the feat would seem to be still more easy than if the card were simply placed flat on the table. The contrary, however, is the case, and unless let into the secret one may blow at a card so placed for hours without being able to overturn it.
To accomplish the feat, the blowing must be done on the table, not on the card, and at some distance from the card.
INDIAN SKITTLE POOL.
_See_ "Skittle Cannonade."
JACK-IN-THE-BOX.
The toy known as Jack-in-the-Box is familiar to all, and is always the source of much fun; it may be readily made by any ingenious lad who will carefully follow the accompanying description:--
The toy consists of a box containing a figure of some comical shape. Inside the figure a piece of wire, known as the spring, is coiled up, corkscrew-wise, like the spring within a carriage candle lamp. The box should be made so that when the lid is closed the wire or spring within the figure is compressed; on the removal of the pressure from the lid the wire regains its original form, and out springs the figure. The figure is sometimes secured to the bottom of the box, and sometimes attached to the side by a long piece of string, and then when the lid is suddenly unfastened, Jack will spring out of his hiding-place and fly up high into the air.
JAPANESE FAN.
_See_ "Magic Fan."
JERK STRAWS.
This is a rough version of the game of Spillikins, or Spelicans, more fully described further on. Jerk-straws, Jack-straws, or Juggling-sticks, as they are indifferently called, are a number of small rounded sticks, forty or fifty or more, about twice as long and of the same thickness as a common Tandstickor match. These are thrown loosely in a confused heap upon the table, and the players have to remove them, one by one, by means of a longer stick, hooked or pointed as desired, without, in the process of removing one stick, touching or disturbing any other. The first player removes as many as he can in this way, but as soon as he disturbs any other than the one to be removed, in the slightest degree, or touches any other one, he gives place to the next player, and so on. At the end of the game, the player has won who has secured the largest number of sticks.
LE DIABLE.
_See_ "Flying Cones."
MAGIC FAN.
The description of several paper toys appears in this section of the book, but of them all the Magic Fan is the most ingenious, its varieties being so numerous. It is known by the names of the "Magic Fan," "Japanese Fan," "Puzzle-Wit," and "Trouble-Wit," and is often exhibited for profit in the public streets of populous places by members of that class of people who prefer living by their wits to working hard. As a toy, however, to be made at home, it is well worth something more than a mere superficial acquaintanceship.
[Illustration: Magic Fan.]
In its manufacture a piece of good stout paper will be required, in size twenty-four inches by nineteen, or proportionately larger or smaller. The paper is to be measured into six equal parts, the divisions being marked on the margin, as shown in Fig. 1. Double the paper in half, as shown in Fig. 2. Fold the uppermost half outwards, making the fold as shown in the same figure by the letters A A. Turn the paper over and fold the other half in precisely the same way, thus making the paper as shown in Fig. 3. Upon examining the edge A A A, two openings between the folds will be seen, whereas at the edge B B B, three openings will be found. The hand has next to be inserted into the middle of these latter openings, and the paper folded outwards to the right and left, and turned over, when it will show as in Fig. 4. Then pinch the paper from end to end in plaits like a ruff, three-eighths of an inch in depth, so that when it is all pinched it will be in small compass, as in the Fig. 5. The Magic Fan is then complete, and all that remains is to learn how to produce its variety of shapes. It is said that as many as from sixty to seventy varieties have been produced; a few only will, however, be here indicated, as by attention to the directions now given it will be a comparatively easy matter to ring the changes on the kinds specified. It must always be remembered that every time the form of the fan is changed, the paper must be again well pinched together, in order that the folds of the plaits may remain plainly and strongly marked. Unless the folds are kept in order the fan cannot be properly worked.
[Illustration: Magic Fan.]
To produce the first form, the common-shaped fan, Fig. 6, catch the folded paper, Fig. 5, at the bottom with both hands, pinch it in and then spread out the top. For Fig. 7, insert the fingers at A and pass them round to B, raising the paper. To turn Fig. 7 into Fig. 8, insert the fingers at C and pass them round to D.
For the next change, catch the paper by the part now uppermost, pinch that part well together, and the paper takes the form of a scoop (Fig. 9), the upper part of the fan, Fig. 8, becoming the handle of the scoop. Pinch the paper again into the form of Fig. 5, lift up the upper part A, bring the lower plaits, B, well together, and with one hand arrange the upper part, so as to form the head of a mushroom (Fig. 10). A new form may be got by raising part of the double head of the mushroom. For Fig. 11, reverse the paper and spread out the lower part, so that it may represent the body of a wine-glass, that which in Fig. 10 was the head of the mushroom will soon appear as the foot of the glass. To make the Chinese lantern, Fig. 12, open out all the paper and twist it round; catch it now by the central part, and by compressing the central folds well together, something like two of the enormous wheels of a steam stone-crusher will be produced (Fig. 13). The butter cooler, Fig. 14, is obtained by opening the paper out again and catching it at the two ends.
The original form, Fig. 5, must then be again reverted to, and a fresh start may be made by catching the paper at both ends and folding it so as to represent Fig. 15. By drawing it out the table mat, Fig. 16, will next be shown. Raise up the paper at the letters A and B of Fig. 16, and there will appear a dish in the form of Fig. 17. Fig. 18 is obtained by then pressing the paper inwards. The sentry box, Fig. 19, comes by drawing the paper out, and letting it loose at the foot. And so on, many shapes not here set forth may be obtained. Experiment freely on the Magic Fan; if spoiled it costs nothing but a little patience and a few minutes of time to remake, and a dexterous lad will produce staircases, sofas, chairs, flower-pots, windows and window-blinds, nightcaps, boxes, &c. &c. &c.
MAGIC FIGURE.
This is an amusing and easily made toy. Its peculiarity lies in this, that however it may be knocked about, so long as it remains whole, it rises of its own accord to its feet and retains its balance with a gently swaying motion. The figure should be cut out of cork or pith, or something equally light, and may be clothed by gumming on to it some silk floss or other similar substance; to its base, but hidden as much as possible, should be fastened the half of a leaden bullet, with the semicircular side undermost. The weight of the pedestal will then be sufficient to secure the recovery of the figure immediately after being made to lie prostrate.
[Illustration: Magic Figure.]
It will be seen by reference that the principle underlying the manufacture of this toy is similar to that of the Demon Bottle, previously described, the variation being the steel pin in the bottle which, when inserted, counteracts the effect of the weight adjusted to the base of the figure.
MAGIC FLUTE.
The magic flute is to be made out of a good sound and unused cork, which has in it neither holes nor cracks. Place the cork against the teeth, holding it tightly between the lips, and play upon it with the handles of two prongs or forks or the bowls of two spoons. An imitation of the piccolo or small flute will thus be produced, and almost any simple quick air may be played upon it.
MAGICIAN OF MOROCCO.
The Magician of Morocco is a hand performance similar in character to those described under the headings of the Apple Woman and the Dancing Highlander. He is made (_see_ Fig. 1) by holding up a hand, bending down the fourth and little fingers, placing the thumb in front, holding the first finger straight up, and the middle finger slanting half-way between the first and fourth fingers. The top joint of the first finger is to be dotted to represent a face, and on the tip of the finger a handkerchief, knotted at one corner to represent a cap, is to be placed, the remainder of the handkerchief being draped about the hand to do duty for the robe (_see_ Fig. 2). This robe looks more effective if the handkerchief out of which it is made is of some bright colour or colours; an Indian silk handkerchief makes both a capital robe and cap combined; the cap may, indeed, then be easily made to look very like an ordinary Turkish fez.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Skeleton of the Magician.]
It will thus be seen that while the first finger in the hand does duty for head, shoulders, and bust, the middle finger, when the whole figure is held sideways to the company, shows as the arms, and the body is made full by means of the position of the thumb and other two fingers.
It is necessary that the Magician of Morocco should have some long outlandish name, and to ensure his success that he should be very voluble with quackeries, divinations, tricks, jests, prophecies, conundrums, scandals, and nonsense of every sort and description; his conversation being accompanied by judicious nods and twists of the head, as it will not be easy to impart much of a twinkle to his eyes.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--The Magician of Morocco.]
MAGNETIC SWAN.
The Magnetic Swan, and other articles made in the same manner, will illustrate the properties of the Magnetic Wand. A number of such articles, to represent swans, ducks, small boats, &c., may be made and placed in a basin or tub of water, and kept in motion by a judicious use of the wand. Be careful to model the articles so that they may undoubtedly represent those objects they are intended to resemble.
Swans, ducks, boats, and such birds and things as swim or float on the surface of water, should be made out of cork, pith, or light wood, with a small piece of magnetised steel run through the body. Swans should be covered with white wax, thinly spread over the body of the bird, and the ducks and boats should be treated in the same way, with the addition of being properly coloured afterwards. Glass beads for eyes may be placed in the heads of the birds. Some care in balancing and loading these objects will have to be taken to ensure them floating properly and steadily.
Fish may also be made in a similar way, but much nicety has to be shown to load them so as to sink them below the surface of the water, and yet to make them sufficiently buoyant to keep them from sinking to the bottom.
Toys of this nature are supplied at a small cost at most toy-shops.
MAGNETIC WAND.
A number of very pleasing experiments may be performed by means of the Magnetic Wand. It is made out of a rod of hard wood, about ten inches long by a third of an inch thick. A hole is to be drilled into this rod, and in the hole is to be placed a strongly magnetised steel wire. Two small knobs should then be placed upon the reverse ends of the wand, and, in order that it may be readily known at which end of the wand is the attractive and at which end the repellent point of the magnetised wire, the knobs ought either to be differently carved or one or both of them should bear some distinctive mark. The letters N and S are suitable as specifying the north and the south poles, by which terms the opposite ends of the magnetised wire are scientifically expressed. The wand so made is complete, and by holding one or other of its ends to the tips of small articles floating in water, made after the manner described in the manufacture of the Magnetic Swan, such articles may be made to either follow after or swim from the wand according as it is the north or the south pole which is held out.
It is an easy matter to magnetise a bit of steel wire, and under this heading of how to make a Magnetic Wand, a few hints on magnetising common objects of steel and iron will not be out of place.
An ordinary poker may be magnetised in a very simple manner. Hold it in the left hand, pointing it somewhat inclined from the perpendicular, so that the lower end is towards the north, then strike the poker several times smartly with a large iron hammer, and to a slight extent it will then be found to possess the powers of a magnet. Another method is as follows:--Get an old large iron poker, and a similar pair of tongs, such as may be found forming a part of the set of fire-irons formerly supplied for kitchen use. Fix the poker upright, and hold to it a bar about three inches long of soft steel, which should be about a quarter of an inch broad, but not more than a twentieth of an inch in thickness. Make on one end of the steel a mark, and let that end be held downwards. The steel should not be held to the poker with the hand, but should be suspended on a piece of silk held in the left hand, and so suspended as to touch the poker. Then grasp the tongs a little below the middle with the right hand, and keeping them as nearly vertical as possible, rub the steel bar with the lower end of the tongs, from the marked end of the bar to its upper end about ten times on each side of it. By this means the bar will receive enough magnetism to enable it to lift at the marked end a small steel key. Or if the bar so magnetised be suspended at its centre, and made to rest on a point, the marked end will turn to the north.
Steel fireirons which have remained untouched during the summer period, and have at the same time remained resting on the fender, in an ordinary living-room, will be found after a few months to have become possessed of magnetic properties.
A common sewing needle is readily magnetised by passing, when gently pressed against it, the north pole of a magnet from the eye to the point of the needle. After the end of the needle has been reached, the magnet must not be passed back along it again to the eye, or the effect will be destroyed; but the effect is increased if the magnet is passed several times in succession from the eye to the point. A needle so magnetised may be used in the place of the magnetised wire required for a small Magnetic Wand.
MAGNIFYING PINHOLE.
_See_ "Microscope (Toy)."
MECHANICAL BUCEPHALUS.
_See_ "Pegasus in Flight."
MICROSCOPE (TOY).
Toy microscopes, or miniature microscopes that may be easily made, are of two sorts. The first and simplest is sometimes called the Magnifying Pinhole. Take a blackened card, and make a hole in it with the point of a fine needle. Hold up the card, and look through the hole so made at any small object held at about an inch from the card, and the object so held will appear magnified about ten times. Remove the card from the eye, leaving the object looked at in its former position, and it will then not be seen at all; this is accounted for from the well-known quality of the eye that it is unable unaided to discover a single object not more than an inch away.
Another sort of toy microscope is made out of a thin plate of lead or brass. Bore a hole in it with a fine awl or a large needle, and let a drop of clear water fall into the hole so as to fill it up completely. Then place any object that it is wished to examine below the thin plate, and immediately below the globule of water. Look through the globule, and the object looked at will be seen, apparently magnified about a hundred and fifty times. A full water-bottle also has microscopic powers.
MOCKING CALL.