Part 7

CHICKEN À LA SWEETBREAD

Take the breast of chicken that has been fricasseed, cut up into small pieces, and add mushrooms. Make brown sauce. Serve in paté shells.

SWEETBREADS

Wash the sweetbreads very carefully and remove all bits of skin and fatty matter. Cover with cold water, salt and boil for fifteen minutes. Then remove from the boiling water and cover with cold water. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry a nice brown in hot fat.

SWEETBREAD SAUTÉ WITH MUSHROOMS

Clean sweetbread, boil until tender, and cut in small pieces. Take one tablespoon of fat, blend in one tablespoon of flour; add half the liquor of a can of mushrooms and enough soup stock to make the necessary amount of gravy; add a little catsup, mushroom catsup, and a few drops of kitchen bouquet, a clove of garlic, and a small onion; salt and pepper to taste. Cook this about an hour, and then remove garlic and onion. Add sweetbreads, mushrooms, and two hard-boiled eggs chopped very fine.

VEAL SWEETBREADS (FRIED)

Wash and lay your sweetbreads in slightly salted cold water for an hour; Pull off carefully all the outer skin, wipe dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat some goose-fat in a spider, lay in the sweetbreads and fry slowly on the back of the stove, turning frequently until they are a nice brown.

CALF'S FEET, PRUNES AND CHESTNUTS

Two calf's feet, sawed into joints, seasoned with pepper and salt a day before using. Place in an iron pot, one-half pound Italian chestnuts that have been scalded and skinned, then the calf's feet, one-eighth pound of raisins, one pound of fine prunes, one small onion, one small head of celery root, two olives cut in small pieces, one-eighth teaspoon of paprika, one cup of soup stock. Stew slowly for five hours, and add one hour before serving, while boiling, a wine glass claret and a wine glass sherry. Do not stir.

CALF'S FEET, SCHARF

Take calf's feet, saw into joints; put on to boil within cold water and boil slowly until the gristle loosens from the bones. Season with salt, pepper; and a clove or two of garlic. Serve hot or cold to taste.

CALF'S FOOT JELLY, No. 1

After carefully washing one calf's foot, split and put it on with one quart water. Boil from four to five hours. Strain and let stand overnight. Put on stove next day and when it begins to boil add the stiff-beaten whites of two eggs; boil till clear, then strain through cheesecloth. Add sherry and sugar to taste. Let it become firm before serving.

SULZE VON KALBSFUESSEN (CALF'S FOOT JELLY), No. 2

Take one calf's head and four calf's feet, and clean carefully. Let them lay in cold water for half an hour. Set on to boil with four quarts of water. Add two or three small onions, a few cloves, salt, one teaspoon of whole peppers, two or three bay leaves, juice of a large lemon (extract the seeds), one cup of white wine and a little white wine vinegar (just enough to give a tart taste). Let this boil slowly for five or six hours (it must boil until it is reduced one-half). Then strain, through a fine hair sieve and let it stand ten or twelve hours. Remove the meat from the bones and when cold cut into fine pieces. Add also the boiled brains (which must be taken up carefully to avoid falling to pieces). Skim off every particle of fat from the jelly and melt slowly. Add one teaspoon of sugar and the whipped whites of three eggs, and boil very fast for about fifteen minutes, skimming well. Taste, and if not tart enough, add a dash of vinegar. Strain through a flannel bag, do not squeeze or shake it until the jelly ceases to run freely. Remove the bowl and put another under, into which you may press out what remains in the bag (this will not be as clear, but tastes quite as good). Wet your mould, put in the jelly and set in a cool place. In order to have a variety, wet another mould and put in the bits of meat, cut up, and the brains and, lastly, the jelly; set this on ice. It must be thick, so that you can cut it into slices to serve.

ASPIC (SULZ)

Set on to boil two calf's feet, chopped up, one pound of beef and one calf's head with one quart water and one cup of white wine. Add one celery root, three small onions, a bunch of parsley, one dozen whole peppercorns, half a dozen cloves, two bay leaves and a teaspoon of fine salt. Boil steadily for eight hours and then pour through a fine hair sieve. When cold remove every particle of fat and set on to boil again, skimming until clear. Then break two eggs, shells and all, into a deep bowl, beat them up with one cup of vinegar, pour some of the soup stock into this and set all back on the stove to boil up once, stirring all the while. Then remove from the fire and pour through a jelly-bag as you would jelly. Pour into jelly-glasses or one large mould. Set on ice.

GANSLEBER IN SULZ (GOOSE-LIVER ASPIC)

Fry a large goose liver in goose-fat. Season with salt, pepper, a few whole cloves and a very little onion. Cut it up in slices and mix with the sulz and the whites of hard-boiled eggs.

GANSLEBER PURÉE IN SULZ

After the liver is fried, rub it through a sieve or colander and mix with sulz.

GOOSE LIVER

If very large cut in half, dry well on a clean cloth, after having lain in salted water for an hour. Season with fine salt and pepper, fry in very hot goose-fat and add a few cloves. While frying cut up a little onion very fine and add. Then cover closely and smother in this way until you wish to serve. Dredge the liver with flour before frying and turn occasionally. Serve with a slice of lemon on each piece of liver.

GOOSE LIVER WITH GLACÉD CHESTNUTS

Prepare as above and garnish with chestnuts which have been prepared thus: Scald until perfectly white, heat some goose-fat, add nuts, a little sugar and glaze a light brown.

GOOSE LIVER WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE

Take a large white goose liver, lay in salt water for an hour (this rule applies to all kinds of liver), wipe dry, salt, pepper and dredge with flour. Fry in hot goose-fat. Cut up a piece of onion, add a few cloves, a few slices of celery, cut very fine, whole peppers, one bay leaf, and some mushrooms. Cover closely and stew a few minutes. Add lemon juice to sauce.

SPANISH LIVER

Boil in salt water one-half pound calf's liver. Drain and cut into small cubes. Chop one onion, one tablespoon parsley, some mint; add two cloves, a little cinnamon, a little tabasco sauce, one tablespoon olive oil, and one cup of soup stock. Add one cup of bread crumbs which have been soaked in hot water and then drained. Mix all with the liver and bring to a boil. Serve with Spanish rice.

STEWED MILT

Clean the milt thoroughly and boil with your soup meat. Set to boil with cold water and let it boil about two hours. Then take it out and cut into finger lengths and prepare the following sauce: Heat one tablespoon of drippings in a spider. When hot cut up a clove of garlic very fine and brown slightly in the fat. Add a tablespoon of flour, stirring briskly, pepper and salt to taste and thin with soup stock, then the pieces of milt and let it simmer slowly. If the sauce is too thick add more water or soup stock. Some add a few caraway seeds instead of the garlic, which is a matter of taste.

GEFILLTE MILZ (MILT)

Clean the milt by taking off the thin outer skin and every particle of fat that adheres to it. Lay it on a clean board, make an incision with a knife through the centre of the milt, taking care not to cut through the lower skin, and scrape with the edge of a spoon, taking out all the flesh you can without tearing the milt and put it into a bowl until wanted. In the meantime dry the bread, which you have previously soaked in water, in a spider in which you have heated some suet or goose oil, and cut up part of an onion in it very fine. When the bread is thoroughly dried, add it to the flesh scraped from the milt. Also two eggs, one-half teaspoon of salt, pepper, nutmeg and a very little thyme (leave out the latter if you object to the flavor), and add a speck of ground ginger instead. Now work all thoroughly with your hands and fill in the milt. The way to do this is to fill it lengthwise all through the centre and sew it up; when done prick it with a fork in several places to prevent its bursting while boiling. You can parboil it after it is filled in the soup you are to have for dinner, then take it up carefully and brown slightly in a spider of heated fat; or form the mixture into a huge ball and bake it in the oven with flakes of fat put here and there, basting often. Bake until a hard crust is formed over it.

CALF'S LIVER SMOTHERED IN ONIONS

Heat some goose fat in a stew-pan with a close-fitting lid. Cut up an onion in it and when the onion is of a light yellow color, place in the liver which you have previously sprinkled with fine salt and dredged with flour. Add a bay leaf, five cloves and two peppercorns. Cover up tight and stew the liver, turning it occasionally and when required adding a little hot water.

CHICKEN LIVERS

Slice three or four livers from chicken or other fowl and dredge well with flour. Fry one minced onion in one tablespoon of fat until light brown. Put in the liver and shake the pan over the fire to sear all sides. Add one-half teaspoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoon of paprika and one-half cup of strong soup stock. Allow it to boil up once. Add one tablespoon claret or sherry and serve immediately on toast.

KISCHKES--RUSSIAN STYLE

Buy beef casings of butcher. Make a filling of fat, flour (using one-third cup fat to one cup flour) and chopped onions. Season well with salt and pepper, cut them in short lengths, fasten one end, stuff and then fasten the open end. If they are not already cleaned the surface exposed after filling the casing is scraped until cleaned after having been plunged into boiling water. Slice two large onions in a roasting-pan, and roast the kischkes slowly until well done and well browned. Baste frequently with liquid in the pan.

KISCHKES

Prepare as above. If the large casings are used they need not be cut in shorter lengths. Boil for three hours in plenty of water and when done, put in frying-pan with one tablespoon of fat, cover and let brown nicely. Serve hot.

HASHED CALF'S LUNG AND HEART

Lay the lung and heart in water for half an hour and then put on to boil in a soup kettle with your soap meat intended for dinner. When soft, remove from the soup and chop up quite fine. Heat one tablespoon of goose fat in a spider; chop up an onion very fine and add to the heated fat. When yellow, add the hashed lung and heart, salt, pepper, soup stock and thicken with flour. You may prepare this sweet and sour by adding a little vinegar and brown sugar, one-half teaspoon of cinnamon and one tablespoon of molasses; boil slowly; keep covered until ready to serve.

TRIPE À LA CREOLE

Boil tripe with onion, parsley, celery, and seasoning; cut in small pieces, then boil up in the following sauce: Take one tablespoon of fat, brown it with two tablespoons of flour; then add one can of boiled and strained tomatoes, one can of mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste. Serve in ramekins.

TRIPE, FAMILY STYLE

Scald and scrape two pounds tripe and cut into inch squares. Take big kitchen spoon of drippings and put in four large onions quartered and three small cloves of garlic cut up very fine. Let steam, but not brown. When onions begin to cook, put in tripe and steam half an hour. Then cover tripe with water and let cook slowly three hours. Boil a few potatoes and cut in dice shapes and add to it. Half an hour before serving, add the following, after taking off as much fat from the tripe as possible: Three tablespoons of flour thinned with little water; add catsup, paprika, ginger, and one teaspoon of salt. It should all be quite thick, like paste, when cooked.

BOILED TONGUE, (SWEET AND SOUR)

Lay the fresh tongue in cold water for a couple of hours and then put it on to boil in enough water to barely cover it, adding salt. Boil until tender. To ascertain when tender run a fork through the thickest part. A good rule is to boil it, closely covered, from three to four hours steadily. Pare off the thick skin which covers the tongue, cut into even slices, sprinkle a little fine salt over each piece and then prepare the following sauce: Put one tablespoon of drippings in a kettle or spider (goose fat is very good). Cut up an onion in it, add a tablespoon of flour and stir, adding gradually about a pint of the liquor in which the tongue was boiled. Cut up a lemon in slices, remove the seeds, and add two dozen raisins, a few pounded almonds, a stick of cinnamon and a few cloves. Sweeten with four tablespoons of brown sugar in which you have put one-half teaspoon of ground cinnamon, one tablespoon of molasses and two tablespoons of vinegar. Let this boil, lay in the slices of tongue and boil up for a few minutes.

FILLED TONGUE

Take a pickled tongue, cut it open; chop or grind some corned beef; add one egg; brown a little onion, and add some soaked bread; fill tongue with it, and sew it up and boil until done.

SMOKED TONGUE

Put on to boil in a large kettle, fill with cold water, enough to completely cover the tongue; keep adding hot water as it boils down so as to keep it covered with water until done. Keep covered with a lid while boiling and put a heavy weight on the top of the lid so as not to let the steam escape. (If you have an old flat iron use it as a weight.) It should boil very slowly and steadily for four hours. When tongue is cooked set it outdoors to cool in the liquor in which it was boiled. If the tongue is very dry, soak overnight before boiling. In serving slice very thin and garnish with parsley.

SMOTHERED TONGUE

Scald tongue, and then skin. Season well with salt and pepper and slice an onion over it. Let it stand overnight. Put some drippings in a covered iron pot, and then the tongue, with whatever juice the seasoning drew. Cover closely and let it cook slowly until tender--about three hours.

PICKLED BEEF TONGUE

Select a large, fresh beef tongue. Soak in cold water one-half hour. Crush a piece of saltpetre, size of walnut, one teacup of salt, one teaspoon of pepper, three small cloves of garlic cut fine; mix seasoning. Drain water off tongue. With a pointed knife prick tongue; rub in seasoning. Put tongue in crock; add the balance of salt, etc.; cover with plate and weight. Allow to stand from four to five days. Without washing off the seasoning, boil in fresh water until tender.

*MEATS*

The majority of the cuts of meat which are kosher are those which require long, slow cooking. These cuts of meat are the most nutritious ones and by long, slow cooking can be made as acceptable as the more expensive cuts of meat; they are best boiled or braised.

In order to shut in the juices the meat should at first be subjected to a high degree of heat for a short time. A crust or case will then be formed on the outside, after which the heat should be lowered and the cooking proceed slowly.

This rule holds good for baking, where the oven must be very hot for the first few minutes only; for boiling, where the water must be boiling and covered for a time, and then placed where it will simmer only; for broiling, where the meat must be placed close to the red-hot coals or under the broiler flame of the gas stove at first, then held farther away.

Do not pierce the meat with a fork while cooking, as it makes an outlet for the juices. If necessary, to turn it, use two spoons.

PAN ROAST BEEF

Take a piece of cross-rib or shoulder, about two and one-half to three pounds, put in a small frying-pan with very little fat; have the pan very hot, let the meat brown on all sides, turning it continually until all sides are done, which will require thirty minutes altogether. Lift the meat out of pan to a hot platter, brown some onions, serve these with the meat.

AN EASY POT ROAST

Take four pounds of brisket, season with salt, pepper and ginger, add three tablespoons of tomatoes and an onion cut up. Cover with water in an iron pot and a close-fitting cover, put in oven and bake from three to four hours.

POT ROAST. BRAISED BEEF

Heat some fat or goose fat in a deep iron pot, cut half an onion very fine and when it is slightly browned put in the meat. Cover up closely and let the meat brown on all sides. Salt to taste, add a scant half teaspoon of paprika, half a cup of hot water and simmer an hour longer, keeping covered closely all the time. Add one-half a sweet green pepper (seeds removed), one small carrot cut in slices, two tablespoons of tomatoes and two onions sliced.

Two and a half pounds of brisket shoulder or any other meat suitable for pot roasting will require three hours slow cooking. Shoulder of lamb may also be cooked in this style.

When the meat is tender, remove to a warm platter, strain the gravy, rubbing the thick part through the sieve and after removing any fat serve in a sauce boat.

If any meat is left over it can be sliced and warmed over in the gravy, but the gravy must be warmed first and the meat cook for a short time only as it is already done enough and too much cooking will render it tasteless.

BRISKET OF BEEF (BRUSTDECKEL)

If the brisket has been used for soup, take it out of the soup when it is tender and prepare it with a horseradish sauce, garlic sauce or onion sauce. (See "Sauces for Meats".)

BRISKET OF BEEF WITH SAUERKRAUT

Take about three pounds of fat, young beef (you may make soup stock of it first), then take out the bones, salt it well and lay it in the bottom of a kettle, put a quart of sauerkraut on top of it and let it boil slowly until tender. Add vinegar if necessary, thicken with a grated raw potato and add a little brown sugar. Some like a few caraway seeds added.

SAUERBRATEN

Take a piece of cross-rib or middle cut of chuck about three pounds, and put it in a deep earthen jar and pour enough boiling vinegar over it to cover; you may take one-third water. Add to the vinegar when boiling four bay leaves, some whole peppercorns, cloves and whole mace. Pour this over the meat and turn it daily. In summer three days is the longest time allowed for the meat to remain in this pickle; but in winter eight days is not too long. When ready to boil, heat one tablespoon drippings in a stew-pan. Cut up one or two onions in it; stew until tender and then put in the beef, salting it on both sides before stewing. Stew closely covered and if not acid enough add some of the brine in which it was pickled. Stew about three hours and thicken the gravy with flour.

ROLLED BEEF--POT-ROASTED

Take one pound and one-half of tenderloin, sprinkle it with parsley and onion; season with pepper and salt; roll and tie it. Place it in a pan with soup stock (or water if you have no stock), carrot and bay leaf and pot roast for one and one-half hours. Serve with tomato or brown sauce.

MOCK DUCK

Take the tenderloin, lay it flat on a board after removing the fat. Make a stuffing as for poultry. See "To Stuff Poultry". Spread this mixture on the meat evenly; then roll and tie it with white twine; turn in the ends to make it even and shapely.

Cut into dice an onion, turnip, and carrot, and place them in a baking-pan; lay the rolled meat on the bed of vegetables; pour in enough stock or water to cover the pan one inch deep; add a bouquet made of parsley, one bay leaf and three cloves; cover with another pan, and let cook slowly for four hours, basting frequently. It can be done in a pot just as well, and should be covered as tight as possible; when cooked, strain off the vegetables; thicken the gravy with one tablespoon of flour browned in fat and serve it with the meat. Long, slow cooking is required to make the meat tender. If cooked too fast it will not be good.

MARROWBONES

Have the bones cut into pieces two or three inches long; scrape and wash them very clean; spread a little thick dough on each end to keep the marrow in; then tie each bone in a piece of cloth and boil them for one hour. Remove the cloth and paste, and place each bone on a square of toast; sprinkle with red pepper and serve very hot. Or the marrow-bone can be boiled without being cut, the marrow then removed with a spoon and placed on squares of hot toast. Serve for luncheon.

ROAST BEEF, No. 1

Take prime rib roast. Cut up a small onion, a celery root and part of a carrot into rather small pieces and add to these two or three sprigs of parsley and one bay leaf. Sprinkle these over the bottom of the dripping-pan and place your roast on this bed. The oven should be very hot when the roast is first put in, but when the roast is browned sufficiently to retain its juices, moderate the heat and roast more slowly until the meat is done. Do not season until the roast is browned, and then add salt and pepper. Enough juice and fat will drop from the roast to give the necessary broth for basting. Baste frequently and turn occasionally, being very careful, however, not to stick a fork into the roast.

ROAST BEEF, No. 2

Season meat with salt and paprika. Dredge with flour. Place on rack in dripping-pan with two or three tablespoons fat, in hot oven, to brown quickly. Reduce heat and baste every ten minutes with the fat that has fried out. When meat is about half done, turn it over, dredge with flour, finish browning. If necessary, add a small quantity of water. Allow fifteen to twenty minutes for each pound of meat.

Three pounds is the smallest roast practicable.