Part 3

_August 23._--We commenced crossing the river at about sunrise. Our method was this: we placed all our baggage and mails in skiffs, and ferrying them over in the first place, then swam our mules, and lastly the carriages were crossed, by placing the wheels of one side of the carriage on one skiff, and those of the other side in another skiff, and poling them along; on reaching the other side we pulled the carriage up the steep bank by man power.

At the town of Mesilla, which is situated some four miles from the ferry, I had to purchase yet another carriage in place of one of mine, the axeltrees of which proved entirely too light. This made four carriages I had purchased since arriving in the Rio Grande valley, before getting two which were even temporarily fit for carrying the mail. We finally got away from Mesilla at 11 o’clock, a. m. In consequence of the muddy state of the roads across the valley, which was here one continuous cornfield for some half dozen miles, we made very slow progress. The _Mesa_, so called, rises very abruptly after you cross the valley, and we pass to the left of this _Mesa_ through some one of its numerous cañons or gorges. The only road accessible at this time to wagons was so dimly defined that we missed our way and consumed all of the afternoon in trying to get to the top of the _Mesa_, and ended in being compelled to return to the village of “Pechacio,” where we passed the night. Made 8 miles to-day.

_August 24._--Left Pechacio village at daylight, this time with another guide; reached the top of the _Mesa_ through a cañon and road some three miles long. We are now crossing the _jornada_ of 65 miles, between La Mesilla and Cook’s wells. We found the road somewhat muddy, the result of the recent rains. We had a fearful thunder storm at noon to-day, and in about half an hour every one was wet through to the skin; afterwards the sun came out warm and pleasant and dried us to a cheerful temperature again. To-day our conductor, Captain Holliday, who is an experienced voyageur on the plains, discovered a natural tank in the rocks. He was first attracted to it by noticing a pair of doves which flew over his head and alighted there. [This tank held enough to water all of our mules, and on my return trip in November, I learned that the same conductor had found water enough for his mules every trip during the intermediate period. I state this incident as one illustrative of the probable chances of finding places adapted to natural tanks. Doves and a species of small sparrow are said to be sure signs of water.]

Camped at 8½ p. m., making 48 miles to-day.

_August 25._--Started at daylight this morning, and breakfasted at Cook’s spring, in a drizzling rain, which lasted at intervals all day. This spring is at the foot of the eastern slope of the Sierra Madre mountains. By examining the table of distances, it will be noticed that the Rio Mimbres is eighteen miles westward from Cook’s spring. We breakfasted at Cook’s spring, and dined several miles west of the Mimbres. This speed made over the mountains will, I think, convey a good idea of what must be the nature of our roads through the Sierra Madre. Passed the Rio Mimbres just before dinner; we had to be very cautious in crossing, else the force of the current would have upset our carriages; the stream was so much of a flood that we had to have one of the men plunge into the water and hold up the lead mules by a rope fastened to their heads. The force of the current and depth of water took them off their feet for a distance of a few yards. A few weeks later, one of our mail trains going west was camped two days on the eastern camp of the Mimbres, unable to cross. We stopped at Cow spring for a couple of hours, about sunset, to graze our animals; camped for the night at the mouth of a cañon leading up to the Burre mountains; camped at 10 o’clock 30 minutes, making fifty-five miles to-day.

_August 26._--Started at daylight. About 8 o’clock this morning, coming down through one of the many cañons leading from the Burre mountains, we found the mail coach which Captain Skillman had taken from San Antonio standing in our road. My first thought was, that another train had been cut off by the Indians, but an examination soon showed the nature of the accident; one of the hind wheels had evidently crushed down, and the two forward ones were gone. The wagon stood propped up carefully in the middle of the road. We concluded that Capt. Skillman had gone on with his two forward wheels, making what travellers term a “cache” among the surrounding rocks of all his spare articles. This we afterwards found to be the case. We stopped here only about as long as it takes to write the fact, then rolled away over the plaza on our journey. About sunset, we had a small sample of what might be suffered for want of water, if men were ignorant of the road. We had brought water from where we breakfasted to answer for our dinner uses, but the day had been very warm, and all of us had drunk very freely, until our canteens had become low. We were deceived by some wagon tracks into turning off from the main road, losing considerable time in finding our way back again, both men and mules being very thirsty. We found water in wagon ruts and holes in the ground. Down went men on the ground, mules and men both drinking in the same manner from the same holes. More accurate information as to distances, and the consequent preparation we now make for any portion of our journey, where we know there is a long stretch without water, does away with any danger from thirst, so far as the men and passengers are concerned; the mules sometimes have to go all day without water. Camped at 11 o’clock.

Made 43 miles to-day.

_August 27._--Off at 5.30 a. m. Crossed the Saur river this morning; found it quite a stream, and the land swampy on both sides, with plenty of water at the crossing. I had a splendid shot at a fine flock of wild ducks. At 4 p. m. we camped for dinner in the Chiracahui mountains at what is termed Apache Spring. Here we met the train of Paymaster Major Brice, _en route_ for Fort Bliss. He had been paying off the troops at Fort Buchanan.

Showery this afternoon. About noon we saw the tracks of Captain Skillman’s two wheels; he was returning eastward; he took a different road from the one we came. I regretted missing him. This pass through the Chiracahui mountains is the most tedious of any we have on our road through Arizona, though this is only slow by comparison with the pass through the Sierra Madre. Though slow, the road is excellent, excepting for a short distance and the climbing of a number of steep hills.

From the Rio Saur to Dos Cabesas Spring is thirty-two miles. We made this in seven hours driving time. We breakfasted at the Saur; made two camps in the distance, making our last drive for the day after we had passed Dos Cabesas spring. Camped at 12 o’clock, midnight. Made 47 miles to-day.

_August 28._--Harnessed at 5.45 a. m. To-day we left the main travelled road, now in use by the troops, and by trains of supplies _en route_ to Fort Buchanan. This road turns southward before coming to the San Pedro river, crossing that stream higher up than we do. The main road is in nearly a due west course till we reach the river; then we turn northward six miles before coming to the ford. This cut-off is not so well defined as the road we had been travelling. Our route lies through Tucson, to which place there has been but little direct trade; and as this was only the second mail coach which has come over the road, we found the way by no means very clearly marked out. We did not deem it prudent to cross the San Pedro river to-night, as the recent rains had swollen it to a much higher point than usual. Camped for the night on the eastern branch of the San Pedro at 11.15 p. m. Made 42 miles to-day.

_August 29._--Crossed the San Pedro as soon as it was light enough to see. About 10 o’clock this morning, as we were making our second drive for the day, I saw a party approaching us mounted on mules. Rode forward to meet them. They proved to be the mail party from San Diego, who left there 9th August with an outfit of saddle mules and pack animals. Our agent had reached San Diego with men and supplies on the 21st of July, in ample time to have started the mail of the 24th, if he could have procured animals.--(See Journal of June 20.) This mail had been twenty days in coming from San Diego to our place of meeting, forty miles east of Tucson. Our mail had been twenty days coming twice the distance. I had sent positive orders in my letters, per steamer of 20th June, to San Francisco, that the mail should be started in a coach, if possible, but that at all events it was only to be sent as far east as the Pimos villages.--(See Journal of July 24.) Mr. Birch had deemed it best in San Francisco to alter this plan, and ordered complete outfits to be sent from San Diego, to go through to San Antonio. I ordered this mail party back, to return with me to Tucson, as nothing was to be gained by their continuing on. At 8 o’clock I mounted my mule, and went on to Tucson with two men. We reached there at 2 o’clock in the morning. My purpose in hastening on in advance of the train was to lose no time, but to purchase mules at once, with which to proceed to San Diego with the through mail. I wished also, if possible, to buy some description of vehicle, in which to send the mail back to El Paso. Train camped in a drizzling rain at 11 o’clock.

Made 49 miles to-day.

_August 30._--Commenced operations at daylight. I found here Mr. Tivey, formerly of Texas, a surveyor from California, who was _en route_ for Santa Fé. He had with him a wagon which would suit our purpose, also a dozen of good mules; he had been waiting some weeks for company. I made an arrangement with this gentleman by which he loaned the mail party his outfit, and agreed to accompany them to La Mesilla. This he did, partly for the consideration of protection, but principally from public spirit and a desire to see the new mail line go into operation at once; besides, having been an extensive traveller himself in new countries, he had a good idea of the obstacles to be overcome in our early organization. The wagon and mules belonging to Mr. Tivey, added to those mules I had brought on which were in condition to return, made a respectable outfit to use in sending the mail back to El Paso. I made up another outfit for myself by taking the inferior of the two carriages I had brought from La Mesilla, purchasing seven mules, and selecting five more from among those belonging to the San Diego party, whom I had turned back. To aid me in taking the mail through to its destination, a distance of 469 miles, I took two Americans and a Mexican, making four of us in the party, as we should soon be beyond the point where the Apaches are in the practice of roaming, and, therefore, so strong a party as came from La Mesilla to Tucson would be unnecessary. For the first time since coming on to the road I took command of the mail party. To make the needed connexion here between the eastern and western divisions of our road, I made two arrangements of mail parties. I detailed two men to come on slowly to the Pimos villages, with instructions to await there the next mail from San Antonio. On receiving the mail they were to push on with all speed for Yuma, 180 miles from Pimos, where I would leave further instructions.

I took with me two other men, whom I also proposed leaving at the Pimos under instruction to return to Tucson with the next mail going east, which mail would have left San Diego August 24. At Tucson they were to deliver the mail to the present train, which would wait as long as possible. Got away about noon, and in the night met with a disagreeable accident: the perch of our carriage broke. We spliced it with mezquit branches and ropes, but, in the first gully we went through, we broke down again even worse than before. This second accident happened at 2 o’clock in the morning; our carriage was a complete wreck, but in any view of the case it was apparently best to camp until daylight; we could then see whether the damages could be repaired or the carriage would have to be abandoned. Camped about 3 o’clock in the morning. Made 36 miles since leaving Tucson.

_August 31._--At daylight we commenced repairing damages. I found that by taking out one of the standards to the top of the carriage, and wrapping that and a piece of broken whiffle tree tightly with raw hides soaked soft in water, the coach promised well for a temporary purpose with a light weight. To lighten us I left on the road our agent for the Pimos station whom I had with me, also the two men who were to return to Tucson with the mail. I then proceeded on my journey towards San Diego. Camped about 12 o’clock on the banks of the Gila river. Made 40 miles to-day.

_September 1._--Off at daylight this morning; reached the first village of the Pimos about sunrise, and there I bought the corn necessary for our mules, a little wheat for same purpose, and a few beans, also a pair of chickens. (Wheat should be fed sparingly, and soaked before using.) Our barter consisted of cotton cloth and a few bells, both of which I purchased in Tucson. Camped for breakfast at the Maricopa wells, which we have since selected as the site for our station; remained at the wells until 3 p. m. waiting for our agent to come up whom I yesterday left behind on the road. Finally he came along, and we prepared for a start. While camping at the wells I was witness to the largest Indian battle of the times. The Yuma Indians, aided by the Mojaves and Tonto Apaches as their allies, attacked the Maricopas just before daylight this morning. The Maricopas and Pimos are allied strongly together. The former being comparatively few in numbers, are rather under the protection of the more numerous Pimos. The Maricopas are the more western of the two tribes, and as the Yumas approached from down the river, their villages were consequently the first attacked. Some warriors and their families were killed, and their huts fired before the presence of the Yumas was known. We saw the huts blazing and thought they were signal fires. Besides warriors on foot, every Indian that could get a horse was in the fight, many of them going a half dozen miles to reach the battle ground. One aged chief, whose wife had been killed by the Yumas, rode furiously up to our camp, foaming at the mouth, and begged of us in good Spanish to aid them against the Yumas; of course we declined. When the battle was over he refused to speak or understand a word of Spanish.

The principal fight was along the bank of the Gila, not half a mile from our camp. One hundred and four Yumas left their villages at the junction of the Gila and Colorado, led on by a young and ambitious chief, whose new dignity required some striking act to dazzle his people. He and ninety-three of his warriors were killed within an half hour, on the side of a hill in plain view from the spot where I was reclining under a tree.

At this place the river makes what is termed “the big bend” of the Gila; the road lies nearly due east and west, while the river makes a horse shoe, probably four times as long as the distance from the Maricopa to Tazotal, at which place the road touches the river again. By the schedule of distances you will perceive it is forty miles from Maricopa to Tazotal.

We started from Maricopa Wells at 3 p. m. and drove all night, reaching Tazotal for our breakfast camp a little after sunrise.

Made 69 miles to-day.

_September 2._--After breakfast this morning we made a drive of ten miles, and then lay by to avoid travelling during the hottest part of the day. The four of us take turns in sleeping and herding mules. Fed our animals on the Mesquit beans, of which there is a great abundance along the Gila river. Started from camp at 3 o’clock p. m.; about sunset met the mail party of August 24, from San Diego, equipped in the same excellent manner for the service as the party of August 9. The train I had come on with from El Paso, together with the addition made by Mr. Tivey, was waiting at Tucson for this mail; to expedite its progress, I had brought two men to the Maricopa station to take it back to Tucson, (see journal of August 30,) but I had also left orders with these men not to wait any longer than sunset to-night, as the conductor and train must return to La Mesilla at once to be in time to bring westward, from El Paso to Tucson, the mail of September 9, from San Antonio. In view of these orders, together with the certainty of not being able to make the connexion at Tucson, I turned this party back to Fort Yuma. I gave instructions to the conductor of this mail to equip himself and two men for a light service of three days’ duration, and to be in readiness to take the next mail, namely, that of September 9, from San Diego, and carry it with all possible speed to Maricopa station, at which place the carriage, or an escort for Tucson, would thereafter be waiting to receive it. We drove until 10 p. m., then camped on the banks of the Gila, waiting for the moon to rise before attempting to cross. Moon rose nearly full, and at about 12 o’clock we crossed and recrossed the Gila, leaving ourselves on the southern bank from which we started. Drove until about three o’clock in the morning.

Made 40 miles to-day.

_September 3._--Started at daylight. Camped about four hours at noon to rest ourselves and animals. Started at four o’clock, and drove till dark. Started again at ten o’clock, p. m., and drove till two o’clock in the morning.

Made 56 miles to-day.

_September 4._--Off at daylight; we should have made a good morning drive, but our carriage stuck in a mud hole, and we had to lighten it by stripping and wading in; even then we hauled it out with difficulty. It had been raining on the Gila during the past few weeks, and the road in many places is gullied, while mud holes are common, and I noticed considerable standing water. We reached Colorado city, opposite Fort Yuma, at 11 o’clock p. m., here we changed a few of our mules, took the mail for San Diego from the quartermaster, and repaired our coach with additions of leather and raw hide. These operations consumed the balance of the night, and it was daylight when we hitched up for a start.

Made 49 miles to-day.

_September 5._--Crossed the Colorado about sunrise over an excellent ferry, then drove to Cook’s Wells to breakfast, 20 miles. We remained encamped at Cook’s Wells to rest ourselves and animals till nearly sunset, and then started to cross what is considered the worst portion of the Colorado desert, namely, a distance of twenty-two miles through heavy sand from Cook’s Wells to Alamo Mucho. This journey consumed the night. We reached the Alamo Mucho wells at daylight.

Made 42 miles to-day.

_September 6._--To-day we pushed all day long to get over the desert, and reached Indian Wells about sunset, twenty-two miles from Alamo Mucho; our road was much better than that of last night. Here we expected to find water for ourselves and stock, but an encampment of Yuma Indians had used it nearly all up, and we could only procure enough for our own dinner; none was to be had for the mules, so we tried to console them with a feed of corn. The want of water left us no resource but to push on for Carissa creek, thirty-two miles more. We travelled all night and reached Carissa creek about sunrise in the morning. This portion of the road is by no means a bad one.

Made 52 miles to-day.

_September 7._--We found our fourteen animals were now very much fatigued. They have had no sleep from Fort Yuma to Carissa, while many of them have come with me all the way from Tucson in less than eight days; they had had no water for twenty-four hours, that is, from Alamo Mucho to this place, Carissa; here they filled themselves at once with the medicated waters of the creek, and thus destroyed their appetites, so that they would not eat a proper quantity of hay or grain. At 9 o’clock, when we left, they were very tired, sleepy, and unwilling to go. Under these circumstances, I decided to select the best animals from among our _mulada_, and push on over the coast range of mountains to San Diego with the mail, taking only one man with me; the coach would come the longer road, by way of San Ysabel. I put this decision in execution about 9 o’clock in the morning, and reached Vallecita at 2 p. m., where we procured something to eat, but could get none of the Indians to guide us over the mountains, as I had confidently calculated upon being able to do. There was no resource left us but to push on alone; so, taking minute directions where to find the best trail, we recommenced our journey, expecting to climb the mountains in time to reach Lassator’s ranch, in one of the valleys, by or before sunset. Our tired animals proved unequal to the required speed, so that after climbing the steep mule path which led up the mountain for several miles, we camped on our trail, in the middle of a splendid table land covered with pine trees, situated near the top of the mountains.