Part 6

Ours is emphatically a stage road. If it were a rich agricultural country all the way from San Antonio to San Diego, it would be impossible for a stage line to cross it in schedule time until some remote day, when the whole distance shall have been settled, and towns built at convenient distances, with good roads connecting them. Our present road would be called a superior one in any State for thirteen hundred miles of its length, and a fair road the remainder of the distance, save twenty-two miles of sand in the Colorado desert, from Cook’s Wells to Alamo Mucho.

In the valley of the Rio Grande I had an application from an old mountain man, who wanted a situation as guide. This man had trapped beaver in all the principal streams falling into the Gila and Colorado rivers. He said the trappers pronounced our present route across Arizona a good one at all seasons of the year.

I had a good opportunity of knowing the nature of the climate we have to contend with. Leaving San Antonio in August, and going directly through, I passed over the road in the hottest months of the year. Then, leaving San Diego October 23, and spending nearly three months returning, I experienced the winter weather over the same country. It was very warm in San Antonio in July; but when we had once commenced ascending to the table lands of Texas, the heat became comparatively moderated, with nights particularly pleasant. In going down the Gila, where we were descending toward the level of the sea, the heat was very great, so much so that, for comfort, and having a full moon, we travelled by night and lay by during the middle of the day. In my experience of the heat on the Gila, which looks so formidable, as marked by the thermometer, I suffered much less with that instrument indicating a hundred and over than I have suffered in the Atlantic States with the thermometer at 85 or 90. The air was pure and clear, the heat produced a copious perspiration, and gave no feeling of oppression in breathing.

In my plans for returning across the continent, the recollection of the hot days along the Gila, or on the Colorado desert, never present themselves to me as any serious inconvenience. The heat does not oppress animals any more than it does men. Our mail carriers, who regularly cross the desert, frequently complain of the blinding influence of the sun reflected in their eyes from the bright sands; I never heard any of them complain of unpleasant effects from the heat, and we have a number of men employed who have traversed this desert for several years past. In returning to San Antonio, through Arizona and Texas, I experienced the northers a number of times, having been delayed once by snow; but none of our party ever suffered anything more than the natural annoyances incidental to wet feet and damp blankets. I make here some few extracts from my journal about the cold I experienced on our route:

_December 5._--At El Paso have had a week of cold weather, with an occasional strong north wind during the time. Ice formed in a pond 100 feet across in the rear of the house; ice also made in the acequias, but the river was barely skimmed over once very early in the morning. Only once in a great many years, in El Paso, has the ice been thick enough to put up a few tons in an ice house.

_December 9._--The mail coach came into El Paso from Tucson, and the conductor reported a norther, accompanied by snow, in the Mimbres. It fell on them the same day we had a norther at El Paso, the 5th, as above; the snow melted as it fell, so that by making a longer morning drive than common he reached the shelter of the trees at the Mimbres; none of his mules were chilled by being exposed without blankets, after unharnessing. The same conductor reports a snow squall on the previous trip, without any detention in either case to the mail, and without the snow lying on the ground at all; it melted as it fell both times.

A letter per this mail from our train going west reports the weather cold enough in the night to freeze water in the canteens, but no one suffering from cold by sleeping on the ground. During the day it was bright and warm, forming a pleasant contrast to the night.

At El Paso, December 9, we received advices of the northern wagon road expedition having returned for the winter. I consulted Colonel Leach, superintendent of the El Paso and Fort Yuma wagon road as to his movements; he assured me he had no intention of going into winter quarters, but, on the contrary, should continue on the road through the winter months; in fact, he deemed them the best suited to his purposes of shortening and improving the road.

The surgeon of Fort Lancaster, who keeps a meteorological journal, said they had not as much snow in that part of Texas during the whole of the past six years taken together as had fallen during the present winter. The snow which fell on the 3d had so far disappeared from the ground as to allow the animals to graze sufficiently, but I waited in order to accompany a detachment of mounted infantry going on a scout as far as Fort Hudson.

_January 6._--The snow had entirely disappeared.

_January 7._--We camped to-night on the Llano Estacado, about half way across it; there was not a particle of snow on the ground. We found one advantage from the snow, it had melted and run into a natural stone tank, giving us abundance of water for ourselves and stock; it will last some weeks. An expense of a few hundred dollars in building up the sides of the tank would make it capable of holding several millions of gallons of water.

The Llano Estacado is here very narrow; we cross the extreme southern portion of it immediately south of us. Not a mile distant, I saw the cañons and broken gulches running eastward to the Devil’s river, and westward to the Pecos.

I never had a case of sickness among either men or passengers during my whole trip, excepting a little annoyance from an over indulgence in fruit in the valley of the Rio Grande. The salubrious air must be conducive to health. Such is the purity and clearness of the atmosphere that the stars shine at night with a brilliancy unknown in this section of the country; cloudy days or nights are an exception, and the stars at night actually give light enough to enable us on our night drives, of which we have a considerable number, to find the road. It can be seen, for some distance ahead of the mules, very plainly.

_Climatic boundary on the west._

_October 24._--The coast range of mountains, which approaches the sea in San Diego county, is the climatic boundary between California and Arizona. Our stock is kept at Lassator’s, 48 miles, nearly due west, from San Diego, in a beautiful valley among the mountains; in San Diego they have a charming climate the year round, while among the mountains snow falls occasionally during the winter, which in the valley below turns to rain. The snow remains on the ground but a day or two. In California there is no rain from March until October, but showers occasionally fall in these valleys during the summer months, when it is the rainy season in Sonora.

The exploring party I sent over the mountain on the 15th of September were rained on all one night. We saw clouds to the westward, but not one drop of rain fell upon us.

By reference to my journal it will be noticed that rain fell on us at intervals all the way from the opening of the Rio Grande valley until I came near to Fort Yuma. While the coast along the Pacific was, in September and October, parched with a drought, compelling rancheros to send their cattle into the mountains; our contractor was cutting hay to send over to our station on the desert. Lassator’s is twelve miles from the top of the coast range, which we there descend by a mule path for several miles on our way to Vallecito, though a good road can be made with a moderate amount of money. After crossing the desert, emigrants usually give their stock a run of the excellent grazing valleys in these mountains, before proceeding further on their journey.

It is hardly possible for me to do more than sketch a few of the changes which our road has produced in the country through which we pass.

The War Department uses the facilities offered by our line for a regular semi-monthly correspondence with seven military posts.

Persons interested in mining pursuits are now looking with great interest towards the silver and copper mines of Arizona. Our mail not only carries the correspondence which takes the money to the mining parties, but regularly bring reports of their success, while passengers are, all the while, taking our line to Arizona; our stations afford stopping places, and our agents information to all who prefer their own mode of conveyance; such travellers are numerous.

The newly appointed consul for Guyamas takes our stage as far as Tucson, starting from San Antonio, Texas.

Our line is already forming the basis of a new State, rich in minerals, half way between Texas and California.

Very respectfully,

I. C. WOODS, _Superintendent S. A. & S. D. Mail Line_.

Hon. A. V. BROWN, _Postmaster General_.

Accompanying this please find the measurements from point to point on the whole road from San Antonio to San Diego, with names of the watering places.

_Table of distances, and from one watering-place to another from starting point._

From San Antonio to Leon river 6.53 From Leon to Castroville, “Medina” river 18 From Castroville to Dharris “Saco” river 25.28 From Dharris to Ranchero creek 8.38 From Ranchero creek to Sabinal creek 3.94 From Sabinal creek to Camanche creek 5 From Camanche creek to Rio Frio 8.46 From Rio Frio to Head of Leona “Uvalde” 6.08 From Uvalde to Nueces 9.04 From Nueces to Turkey creek 10.27 From Turkey creek to Elm creek 15.23 From Elm creek to Las Moras river, Fort Clarke 7.13 ----- 123.34 From Fort Clarke to Piedra Pinto 7 From Piedra Pinto to Maverick creek 8.86 From Maverick creek to San Felipe 12.61 From San Felipe to first crossing of San Pedro or Devil’s river 10.22 From First Crossing to Painted Caves 2.54 From Painted Caves to California Spring 15.73 From California Spring to Willow Spring 2 From Willow Spring to Fort Hudson, or second crossing of San Pedro or Devil’s river 16.39 ----- 75.35 From Fort Hudson to Head of San Pedro or Devil’s river 19.50 From Head of river to Howard Springs 44 From Howard Springs to Live Oak creek 30.44 From Live Oak creek to Fort Lancaster 3 ----- 96.94 From Fort Lancaster to Pecos 4.29 From Pecos Crossing to Pecos Spring 6 From Pecos Spring to Leaving of Pecos 32.26 From Leaving of Pecos to Arroyo Escondido 16.26 From Arroyo Escondido to Escondido Spring 8.58 From Escondido Spring to Camanche Spring 19.40 From Camanche Spring to Leon Hole 8.88 From Leon Hole to Hackberry pond 11 From Hackberry pond to Limpia creek 32 From Limpia creek to Fort Davis 18.86 ----- 157.53 From Fort Davis to Point of Rocks 10 From Point of Rocks to Barree Springs 8.42 From Barree Springs to Deadman’s Hole 13.58 From Deadman’s Hole to Van Horn’s Wells 32.83 From Van Horn’s Wells to Eagle Springs 19.74 From Eagle Springs to first camp on Rio Grande 31.42 From first camp on Rio Grande to Birchville 35 ----- 150.99 From Birchville to San Eleazario 24.80 From San Eleazario to Socorro 5.45 From Socorro to Isletta 3.10 From Isletta to El Paso 14.14 ----- 47.49 From El Paso to Cottonwood 22 From Cottonwood to Fort Fillmore 22 From Fort Fillmore to La Mesilla 6 ----- 50 From La Mesilla to Cook’s Spring 65 From Cook’s Spring to Rio Mimbres 18 From Rio Mimbres to Ojo La Vaca 17 From Ojo La Vaca to Ojo de Ynez 10 From Ojo de Ynez to Peloncilla 34 From Peloncilla to Rio Saur or San Domingo 18 From Rio Saur to Apache Springs 23 From Apache Springs to Dos Cabesas Springs 9 From Dos Cabesas Springs to Dragon Springs 26 From Dragon Springs to mouth of Quercos cañon 18 From mouth of Quercos cañon to San Pedro crossing 6 From San Pedro to Cienega 20 From Cienega to Cienega creek 13 From Cienega creek to Mission San Xavier 20 From Mission to Tucson 8 ---- 305 From Tucson to Pico Chico mountain 5 From Pico Chico to first camp on Gila 35 From first camp on Gila to Maricopa Wells 29 ---- 99 From Maricopa Wells to Tezotal, across Jornada 40 From Tezotal to Ten-mile camp 10 From Ten-mile camp to Murderer’s grave 8 From Murderer’s grave to Oatman’s Flat, 1st crossing of Gila 15 From Oatman’s Flat to 2d crossing of Gila 25 From 2d crossing of Gila to Peterman’s station 32 From Peterman’s station to Antelope Peak 20 From Antelope Peak to Little Corral 24 From Little Coral to Fort Yuma 16 ---- 190 From Fort Yuma to Pilot Knob 7 From Pilot Knob to Cook’s Wells 13 From Cook’s Wells to Alamo Mucho 21.94 From Alamo Mucho to Indian Wells 20.94 From Indian Wells to Carissa creek 32.24 ----- 95.12 From Carissa creek to Vallecito 18 From Vallecito to Lassator’s ranch 18 From Lassator’s ranch to Julian’s ranch 7 From Julian’s ranch to Williams’ ranch 7 From Williams’ ranch to Ames’ ranch 14 From Ames’ ranch to Mission San Diego 16 From Mission to San Diego 5 ----- 85

_Recapitulation._

San Antonio to Fort Clarke 123.34 Fort Clarke to Fort Hudson 75.35 Fort Hudson to Fort Lancaster 96.94 Fort Lancaster to Fort Davis 157.53 Fort Davis to Birchville 150.99 Birchville to El Paso 47.49 ------ 651.64 El Paso to La Mesilla 50 La Mesilla to Tucson 305 Tucson to Maricopa 99 Maricopa to Fort Yuma 190 Fort Yuma to Carissa 95.12 Carissa to San Diego 85 -------- San Antonio to San Diego 1,475.76 ========

_Itinerary of my own journey across the continent._

August 1.--From San Antonio to Castroville 25 miles. 2.--From Castroville to 9 miles east of Uvalde 46 ” 3.--From camp to 11 miles west of Turkey creek 40 ” 4.--From camp to near San Felipe creek 40 ” 5.--From camp to 10 miles east of Fort Hudson 35 ” 6.--From camp to 10 miles west of San Pedro 44 ” 7.--From camp to 6 miles east of Live Oak creek 53 ” 8.--From camp to 6 miles above Pecos spring 28 ” 9.--From camp to Escondido creek, 8 miles east of the spring 44 ” 10.--From camp to 10 miles west of 46 ” 11.--From camp to Limpia creek 33 ” 12.--From camp to Fort Davis 19 ” 13.--From Fort Davis to 7 miles west of Dead Man’s Hole 42 ” 14.--From camp to 8 miles west of Eagle Springs 51 ” 15.--From camp to 10 miles south of Birchville 49 ” 16.--From camp to Socorro 40 ” 17.--From Socorro to Franklin, El Paso 17 ” 18, 19, 20, 21.--In El Paso. 22.--From El Paso to Fort Fillmore 44 ” 23.--From Fort Fillmore to Picacho village, 6 miles west of Mesilla 12 ” 24.--From Picacho village to 9 miles east of Cook’s Spring 50 ” 25.--From camp to mouth of Burro Mount cañon, near Ojo de Ynez 55 ” 26.--From camp to 9 miles east of River Saur 43 ” 27.--From camp to 9 miles west of Dos Cabesas Spring 50 ” 28.--From camp to ford of San Pedro river 40 ” 29.--From camp to Mission San Xavier 53 ” 30.--From Mission San Xavier to 30 miles west of Tucson 38 ” 31.--From camp to 1-mile camp on Gila 40 ” Sept. 1.--From camp to Tezotal 69 ” 2.--From Tezotal to second crossing of Gila 58 ” 3.--From second crossing to Antelope Peak 52 ” 4.--From Antelope Peak to Fort Yuma 40 ” 5.--From Fort Yuma to Alamo Mucho 42 ” 6.--From Alamo Mucho to Carissa creek 53 ” 7.--From Carissa creek to Lassator’s 36 ” 8.--From Lassator’s to San Diego 49 ” ----- 1,476 miles.

Making the trip personally from San Antonio to San Diego in thirty-eight days.

[From the San Antonio Herald.]

_A few notes and distances from San Antonio to San Diego._

The following information in relation to the distances from this place to San Diego, has been obtained from the superintendent of the S. A. & S. D. Mail Stage Company, who has passed over the route and back, and the statements as to distances and the nature of the route may be implicitly relied on:

1. The distance from San Antonio to El Paso is 652 miles, and the character of the route is so well known to most of our readers that we deem it unnecessary to enter into any description of it. Grass and water are considered sufficiently abundant. The road passes by a number of the military posts, and though Indians are occasionally met with, they have seldom made any hostile demonstrations, and have never, but once, made an attack upon the train.

2. From El Paso to Messilla Valley in the Gadsden Purchase, the route running up the east bank of the Rio Grande to Fort Fillmore, (N. M.) where it crosses the river into the Messilla Valley, the distance is 50 miles.

3. From Messilla Valley to Tucson the distance is 305 miles. This portion of the route is remarkably fine travelling, with good grass and water. The streams on this section are the Mimbres and San Pedro, both fordable, and usually crossed with but little trouble. The Apache Indians are met with occasionally on this route, yet the mail party which here consists of eight men, has never been attacked in making some thirty-two trips over the route.

4. From Tucson to Maricopa Wells, (Pimos Villages,) is 99 miles. On this portion of the route the mail is carried by two men. Very few Indians are seen, and they are harmless. The Maricopa Wells are at the further end of a beautiful and fertile valley, occupied by the Pimos Indians, who raise corn and other grain in considerable quantities.--(See Journal.) On this portion of the route, and indeed, throughout the entire distance from San Antonio to San Diego, the road is well defined, and is a finely beaten level track, with just enough gravel for the most part to make it pleasant travelling.

5. From Maricopa Wells down the river Gila to Fort Yuma is 190 miles. On this portion of the route the grass, though not abundant, is yet sufficient for the maintainance of trains and herds.--(See Journal.) Few Indians on the route, and they not dangerous. The mail train between these points consists of three men. Fort Yuma is situated on the west bank of the Great Colorado of the West, and just opposite the junction of the Gila with that stream. There is a splendid large ferry-boat on the Colorado here, sufficient to cross a six-horse stage. The river is about as large as the Ohio at Wheeling. This portion of the road is travelled considerably by Californians who carry on mining operations in the Gadsden Purchase. It is the opinion of all who have seen that region that it possesses the finest silver mines in the world, together with fine quantities of gold on the streams north of the Gila. These mines are now little known and but slightly valued, because of the proximity of the Indians, and their remoteness from mining facilities.

6. From Fort Yuma to Carissa creek is 95 miles. This section embraces the “great bugbear” known as the “Great Colorado Desert.” Between the two points there are three watering places on the direct route, whilst there are others that may be reached by a slight deflection. The mail party here consists of two men.

7. From Carissa creek to San Diego is 85 miles, its whole extent. This is by a new route, and at present not open to wagons its whole extent, but which, by a little work in the mountain passes, can be made an excellent road. The mail is now carried over this new route. The old route, over which the stages have to pass, is 125 miles. Over this section the mail is carried by a single person.

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Transcriber’s note

Minor punctuation errors have been changed without notice. Inconsistencies in italics, spelling, and hyphenization have been standardized.

Spelling has been retained as originally published except for the changes below.

Page 14: “during the moring” “during the morning” Page 14: “in charge of the coporal” “in charge of the corporal” Page 17: “paying off the trooops” “paying off the troops” Page 18: “made two arragements” “made two arrangements” Page 30: “Department contemplate” “Department contemplates” Page 35: “nature of the climate wit” “nature of the climate we” Page 35: “go ee directly through” “going directly through” Page 35: “hottest months gof hn” “hottest months of the” Page 37: “drop of rain feel upon us” “drop of rain fell upon us”