Part 1

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

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Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.

KNITTING:

HOW TO KNIT

AND

WHAT TO KNIT.

_WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS._

COMPILED AND EDITED BY MARIE LOUISE KERZMAN.

PUBLISHED BY HENRY BRISTOW, BROOKLYN, N. Y.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, BY HENRY BRISTOW, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C.

HOW TO KNIT.

The necessary materials for knitting are either cotton, worsted, silk or thread, and knitting needles.

Stockings and all knitting worked in rounds require four knitting needles, three of which are used for holding the stitches of the work, and the fourth to knit with.

The casting on of stitches forms the beginning of knitting. It consists of loops formed around a knitting needle. Every loop will form a stitch. The number of stitches will determine the width of the object which is to be knitted.

There are five different ways of casting on stitches. For the casting on of stitches always unroll an end of the cotton long enough to work the stitches required, as this end is used in the formation of those stitches.

[Illustration: NO. 1. POSITION TO FORM THE FIRST CAST ON STITCH.]

No. 1.—Illustration No. 1 shows the position of the cotton, ready to cast on the first stitch. Place the cotton over the thumb and first finger of the left hand, in such a way as to have the end of cotton, which must be sufficiently long for the required number of stitches, fall from the thumb toward the palm of the hand. Hold this end and the other part of the cotton with the remaining fingers of the left hand. This same position of the cotton is used in illustrations 2 and 3. Take the needle with the right hand, place it over the cotton, between the thumb and the first finger, pass it under the cotton resting around the thumb, bring it upward; then pass the needle downward, under the cotton resting on the first finger; pass this loop through the loop around the thumb, withdraw the thumb from the loop; pass the thumb under the end of the cotton, toward the palm of the hand; draw this end in order to close the stitch just formed.

[Illustration: NO. 2. CASTING ON OF SINGLE STITCHES.]

No. 2—_Casting on of Single Stitches._—Begin in the same manner as described in No. 1, and make 2 stitches. Then take up on the needle the loop which is around the thumb (see illustration 2), without withdrawing the thumb, insert the needle around the cotton marked _b_ in illustration No. 2, from right to left, and draw it through loop _a_; close this stitch as already directed in No. 1, by withdrawing the thumb from loop _a_ and drawing the end of cotton.

[Illustration: NO. 3. CASTING ON BY KNITTING.]

No. 3.—This casting on of stitches requires two needles. Form the first stitch in same manner as described in No. 1. Then, with the left hand, hold the needle on which this first stitch is formed, pass the cotton over the first finger of the left hand, take a needle with the right hand, and insert the point into the loop on the left needle, wind the cotton around the point of the right needle, draw it through the loop, *insert the point of the left needle into the loop just formed on the right needle, wind the cotton around the point of the right needle, draw it through the loop. Repeat from *. See illustration 3.

[Illustration: NO. 4. NEW CASTING ON OF STITCHES.]

No. 4—_The Casting on of a New Row of Stitches._—This casting on of stitches is generally employed in knitting with worsted, which requires a new casting on of stitches in the progress of the work. It is done by putting the worsted (see illustration No. 4) over the thumb of the left hand, holding the end between the second and third fingers, * take up the worsted around the thumb and lying toward the palm of the hand, by inserting the needle from under the worsted in an upward direction (see illustration No. 4), withdraw the thumb from the loop, pass the thumb under the end of worsted resting in the palm of the hand, and draw it to close the stitch. Repeat from *.

[Illustration: NO. 5. CASTING ON OF STITCHES LEAVING AN EDGE.]

No. 5.—The casting on of stitches illustrated in cut No. 5 forms a narrow border after the first row has been knitted. In order to easily knit the first row, the casting on of stitches must be done on _a pair_ of knitting needles. Unroll an end long enough for the required number of stitches. Double it. Fold this doubled end in half, insert the point of the needles into the fold, place on the first finger of the left hand the long end of the worsted which is among the short ends. Place the three short ends over the thumb. Hold all these ends with the second finger. Take on the needles the ends resting on the thumb (marked _b_ in illustration), and insert them as shown in illustration No. 5. Then pass the needles through the loop on first finger, in the direction of the arrow, and pass this loop through the loop already formed on the needles, withdraw the thumb, close the stitch by drawing the three ends, which is done by passing the thumb under them.

[Illustration: NO. 6. CASTING ON OF DOUBLE STITCHES.]

No. 6—_Double Casting on of Stitches._—The difference between this method of casting on and the preceding is, that every knot forms, each time, two loops instead of one, on the needle. The first knot must be formed in the same manner as described in No. 5. In order to work the second knot, insert once more the needle into the loop of three ends which rest on the thumb, marked _a_ in illustration No. 6. The arrow, in same illustration, shows where to insert the needle and the direction it has to take. This done, insert the needle downward into loop _b_, and draw the latter through loop resting on the thumb, withdraw the thumb and close the knot. Every loop on the needle must be knitted separately at the first row.

WHAT TO KNIT.

[Illustration: NO. 7. PLAIN KNITTING.]

Cut No. 7 illustrates plain knitting. This is the stitch generally used in ordinary knitting. First, cast on the required number of stitches in one of the ways already described. This done, take in the left hand the needle on which are the loops, place the thread over the first finger of the left hand, hold it with the second finger of the same hand. Take the second needle with the right hand, insert its point into the stitch, in an upward direction, and throw the thread around the right hand needle, from right to left. Draw it through the preceding loop and slip the left hand needle from its loop. Every loop on the left hand needle is worked in the same manner.

When all the stitches have been worked from the left hand needle, take that needle in the right hand and continue to work in same manner.

[Illustration: NO. 8. PURLED KNITTING.]

To _Pearl_, _Purl_ or _Seam_, (meaning the same thing), is done by holding with the left hand a needle on which a row of stitches has been cast. Take a needle in the right hand, place the cotton over the left hand needle and the first finger of the left hand, hold the end with the second finger of the same hand. Insert the right hand needle through the loop on the left hand needle, point right to left, in such a manner as to have the cotton just under the right hand needle. Pull this cotton through the loop, withdraw the left hand needle from the loop, and the purled stitch is formed.

_How to Repair a Stitch which has been Half Knitted, or Dropped while Knitting._—In knitting, one ought to be careful not to drop stitches or to form half stitches. The latter happens when the thread thrown over the right hand needle has not been pulled through the loop of the left hand needle. To remedy this, while working the next round or row, take the thread which has been thrown over the needle from it, and pull it through the loop of the stitch. To repair a dropped stitch, insert the left needle into the stitch, gather all the threads on the right hand needle and pull them through the loop of the stitch, one after the other.

_To Increase._—There are two ways to increase. The first is, to knit both in the lower part of the stitch and also in the stitch itself. The second way is to bring the cotton forward round the end of the right needle, to the front; this forms a loop on the right needle when the next stitch is knitted, and this extra loop is the made stitch. It is preferable to increase after the first manner in plain knitting, as this way of increasing is not so marked. The second manner is used in fancy knitting, as it leaves a little opening after the stitch is formed.

_To Slip a Stitch_ is to take a stitch off the left needle and to _slip_ it on to the right needle without knitting.

With any work knitted in rows, it is necessary that the first stitch of every row be worked as a slipped stitch. If it is a row of _purl_, the first stitch must be slipped off as if it were plain knitting; if it is a row of _plain_ knitting, slip the first stitch off as if it were purl knitting.

_How to Narrow._—The usual way of narrowing is to knit two stitches together, viz.: put the right needle through two of the loops on the left needle, and knit them as one stitch. Another method is to slip a stitch, knit one, and then with the left needle cast the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. When the narrowing is used to give a certain shape to the work, it is well to employ the first method when narrowing at the end of the round or row; and the second method when narrowing at the beginning of it.

_Casting Off_ is done as follows: Knit two plain stitches, with the left needle throw the first stitch over the second, knit a third stitch, throw the second over the third, knit a fourth, throw the third over the fourth, and so on until the last stitch is worked. Pull the cotton through, and a knot is formed.

_The Joining of Ends_ in knitting ought never to be done by knotting them together. It may be done so that no defect is visible on the right side of the work, by lapping them three inches together, and knitting five inches with doubled thread, leaving the ends on the wrong side of the work. These ends can then be neatly darned into the wrong side of the work.

LADY’S STOCKING.

To knit a stocking, attention must be given to the size of the knitting needles, which ought to correspond with the number of the material with which the stocking is to be knitted. It would be difficult to give the exact number of stitches necessary for any given size of stocking, as there is always a difference between the knitting of different persons, since some knit loosely, others very closely. It must be left to the judgment of the knitter to determine the exact number of stitches required for the stocking to be knitted.

The following is the method of knitting a lady’s stocking with No. 300 knitting silk (or any other material of same size), with needles to correspond.

This stocking is knitted, with a double border, as follows:

Cast on 152 stitches on 3 needles. After having cast on the last stitch, close the round by knitting the _first_ stitch cast on.

Knit 16 rounds plain.

17th Round.—* Slip 1, knit 1, draw the slip stitch over the knitted stitch, make 1; repeat from * to end of round.

18th to 34th Rounds, inclusive.—Knit plain.

Then fold in half the piece knitted, so that the 17th round will form the edge of the border.

Pick up on other knitting needles the stitches of the 1st round, _i. e._, the stitches cast on, and knit each of them with each stitch of the 34th round. This finishes the border. Thus, the lower edge of the border forms a fancy design of small scallops. Purl 3 rounds, knit plain 3 rounds, purl 3 rounds.

Then knit plain until the leg of the stocking is twelve inches long. In the first round of _this_ plain knitting begin the seam stitch, which ought to correspond with the last and first stitches cast on. This seam stitch is repeated in every third round.

After the twelve inches have been knitted, narrow in the following round 1 stitch on each side of the seam. Knit 8 rounds. Narrow 1 stitch on each side of seam. Knit 7 rounds. Narrow, in manner already described. Knit 6 rounds. Narrow. Knit 5 rounds. * Narrow. Knit 4 rounds. Repeat 20 times from * until 110 stitches and the 2 seam stitches are left on the needles. This done, knit plain 30 rounds. The knitting of the heel now begins. Divide the stitches by putting on 1 needle the 2 seam stitches and 28 stitches on each side of them. Thus, there will be upon this needle 58 stitches. Knit this needle, backward and forward, in _rows_, making the seam stitches as usual.

When knitting backward, purl _all_ these stitches. When knitting forward, knit plain all the stitches with exception of the seam stitch, which must be purled. Always slip the first knitted stitch. Continue knitting until the flap is 44 rows long, counting each time across as 1 row.

1st Row.—Now purl from the left hand side the 28 stitches and the 2 seam stitches. Purl 2, knit 2 together, purl 1. Turn.

2d Row.—Slip 1, 3 plain, 2 purl (seam stitches), 2 plain, knit 2 together, 1 plain. Turn.

3d Row.—Slip 1, purl 8 (including seam stitches), purl 2 together, purl 1. Turn.

4th Row.—Slip 1, 4 plain, 2 purl (seam stitches), 3 plain, knit 2 together, 1 plain. Turn.

5th Row.—Slip 1, purl 10 (seam stitch included), purl 2 together, purl 1. Turn.

Continue to knit in this wise until the remaining stitches are gradually worked off. Then pick up the side stitches of this flap, which amount to 36 on each side, and the heel is formed.

Knit the side stitches of the flap, “making 1” now and then, so as to make the number of stitches on each side of the heel amount to 40.

Knit again in rounds. After every 2 rounds purl the first 2 stitches together, then the last 2 stitches together, of the heel stitches. Narrow in this manner 12 times. This done, the number of stitches in the whole round is reduced to 110, _i. e._, to the original number before the beginning of the heel. Knit plain 50 rounds. Commence narrowing of toe as follows: * knit 2 together, knit 8 plain. Repeat from * to end of round. Knit 8 rounds plain. * Knit 2 together, knit 7 plain. Repeat from * to end of round. Knit 7 rounds plain. Knit 2 together, knit 6 plain, knit 2 together, 6 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 6 rounds plain; knit 2 together, 5 plain, 2 together, 5 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 5 rounds plain; knit 2 together, 4 plain, 2 together, 4 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 4 rounds plain; knit 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 3 rounds plain; knit 2 together, 2 plain, 2 together, 2 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 2 rounds plain; knit 2 together, 1 plain, 2 together, 1 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 1 round plain.

11 stitches now remain. By means of a darning needle, slip these stitches upon the silk thread with which the knitting is done. Pass this silk once more through the stitches, then draw all the stitches together, by pulling the silk thread. Fasten the thread on the wrong side of the stocking.

HEELS OF STOCKINGS.

There are three other ways of knitting a stocking-heel, as illustrations 9, 10 and 11 show. In the directions for knitting these heels, the same number of stitches is taken as in the directions for knitting the heel of “lady’s stocking,” _i. e._, 28 stitches on each side of the 2 seam stitches, thus leaving 54 for the front of the foot.

[Illustration: NO. 9. HEEL OF A STOCKING.]

_Heel No. 9._—Knit 44 rows backward (purling) and forward (plain). While knitting these rows, make a seam stitch on each side of the flap. These 2 seams must correspond with the seam in the center of the flap. See illustration No. 9.

When the 44 rows have been knitted, the rounding of the heel begins. Knit from right hand side 19 stitches (including the side seam stitch), knit 2 together, knit 14 plain (center seam stitch inclusive), slip 1, knit 1 plain, draw the slip stitch over the 1 plain. Knit 5 plain. Turn. Slip 1, purl 25. Turn. Slip 1, knit 3 plain, knit 2 together, knit 14 plain, slip 1, knit 1 plain, draw the slip stitch over the 1 plain, knit 5 plain. Turn. Slip 1, purl 25.

Continue working thus to the end of cap, alternating every time each row in same manner as described. When the heel is finished, 26 stitches must remain on the needle.

[Illustration: NO. 10. HEEL.]

_Heel No. 10._—This heel is knitted partly in rounds with the front of the foot, and partly by itself in rows. Divide the stitches evenly on 4 needles, and knit in rounds with a fifth needle. After every 2 rounds “make 1,” just before knitting the first of the stitches belonging to the heel, and “make 1” after having knitted them. Repeat this 13 times.

This done, begin the cap of the heel. Put on a special needle the 12 middle stitches (6 on each side of the seam stitch), and knit these in _rows_, forward and backward, until 16 rows have been worked. Narrow at the end of each of these rows, in knitting the last stitch of the row together with the first of the remaining stitches on the next needle, then knit the following stitch and turn.

Knit 16 rows more without narrowing, but at the end of each row knit 1 of the stitches remaining on the next needle, and then turn to knit the following row.

When this is done, continue to knit in rows, and narrow again at the end of each row by knitting the last stitch of each row together with one of the remaining stitches on the next needle; then turn and knit the following row. When the remaining stitches have all been narrowed into the heel, then begin to knit the foot in rounds.

[Illustration: NO. 11. HEEL.]

_Heel No. 11._—To work this heel, knit a flap of a good length in rows, backward and forward. Then put on a special needle the 22 stitches in the center, 11 on each side of the seam stitch, and knit these in rows, backward and forward. In every _plain_ row knit the 4th and 5th stitches together, and then the 19th and 20th stitches together. At the end of _every row_ knit 1 of the remaining stitches. When all these remaining stitches have been worked, then pick up the side stitches of the flap, and the heel is finished.

HOW TO KNIT THE TOE OF A STOCKING.

[Illustration: NO. 12. TOE.]

No. 12.—This toe is worked as follows: Narrow after every 7 stitches, in the first round to be narrowed. Then knit 7 rounds plain. Narrow in the following round after every 6 stitches. Knit 6 rounds plain. Narrow in the next round after every 5 stitches. Knit 5 rounds plain. Continue working in such manner, always knitting 1 stitch less between the narrowings in every new round which is to be narrowed, and always knitting after every round narrowed the same number of plain rounds as the number of stitches knitted between the narrowings of this last round narrowed.

[Illustration: NO. 13. TOE.]

No. 13.—Before beginning to decrease this toe, divide the stitches evenly on 4 needles. Then narrow at the beginning of every needle; slip the first stitch, knit the next one, and draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one. After _each_ of the first 4 narrowed rounds knit 4 rounds plain. After _each_ of the next 4 narrowed rounds knit 3 rounds plain. After _each_ of the following 4 narrowed rounds knit 2 rounds plain, and after _each_ of the following 4 narrowed rounds knit 1 round plain. Then continue to narrow at the beginning of every needle to end of toe.

[Illustration: NO. 14. TOE.]

No. 14.—The narrowing of this toe is done as follows: Divide equally on 4 needles the number of stitches. Then begin the first round of narrowing by purling 2 together at the beginning of every needle. This round is followed by 4 rounds plain. In all the narrowing rounds that follow the first one, decrease once on each side of the preceding narrowing. After every narrowed round knit 4 rounds plain. Knit in all, 11 narrowing rounds. Then finish off the toe by narrowing only once at the end of _each_ needle, by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next, and drawing the slipped stitch over the knitted one.

TO RENEW THE HEEL AND SOLE OF STOCKINGS KNITTED BY HAND.

[Illustration: NO. 15. POSITION OF NEEDLES TO RENEW A STOCKING HEEL.]

[Illustration: NO. 16. THE FASTENING OF THE NEW HEEL.]