Chapter 2 of 6 · 3984 words · ~20 min read

Part 2

Illustrations 15 to 18 show the manner of doing this. To renew the heel of a stocking, first remove the damaged heel by cutting along the sides of the heel, at the end of the cap and at the beginning of the heel. Make even the stitches belonging to the parts from which the heel has just been cut. Take up these stitches on 5 needles, as illustrated in cut No. 15. Take up on 2 needles the stitches belonging to the heel. Then take up the side stitches (each side) on 1 needle. The remaining stitches belong to the fifth needle, that is, those which will serve for the joining of the cap of the heel. Then, with the stitches belonging to the heel, begin to knit the heel in rows, to and fro. But, at the end of every plain row, always knit the last stitch of the row together (plain) with the next stitch on the side needle. The same must be done at the end of every purled row, only the last stitch with the next stitch on the side needle have to be _purled_ together, instead of knitted plain. When the heel has reached the required length, then begin to knit the cap of the heel in the usual way, until the number of stitches corresponds to the number of stitches of the fifth needle. Join these 2 rows of stitches together, as illustrated in cut No. 16. This is done by darning. Take an end of the cotton long enough for this purpose, and pass it, by means of a darning needle, downward through the last stitch of the stocking, and through the first one of the stitches on the fifth needle, or upper row. Then pass it through the next 2 corresponding stitches of the cap of the heel. See illustration No. 17, which shows the needle inserted in the 2 stitches through which the cotton is to be drawn. Pass the needle through the next 2 corresponding stitches of the upper row, in the same direction as is shown by the arrow in illustration No. 17. From there * pass it through the last stitch, already worked, of the lower row, and through next stitch; then through the next 2 corresponding stitches of the upper row. Slip every time the stitch from the knitting needle after having passed the cotton through them. Repeat from * until all the stitches of the 2 rows are joined to each other. When this is done, fasten the cotton on the wrong side of the stocking by drawing it through a few stitches.

[Illustration: NO. 17. STITCH FOR THE FASTENING OF A NEW HEEL.]

Illustration No. 17 represents only a part of the joining, where the stitches are worked very loosely, in order that it might be copied more easily. Yet, while working, the stitches of the joining must be drawn to the same size as the knitted stitches of the stocking, and in such a manner that the joining cannot be detected from the knitting.

[Illustration: NO. 18. RE-SOLING THE FOOT OF A STOCKING.]

No. 18—_How to Re-sole the Foot of a Stocking_.—In order to do this, a new heel must first be knitted to the stocking in the usual way. When this is done, pick up the side stitches of the heel and begin to knit the sole in _rows_, to and fro, 1 row plain, the other purled. At the end of every plain row pick up the last stitch of the _corresponding_ row of the old sole, and knit it together, plain, with the last stitch of row just knitted. The same thing must be done at the end of every purled row, only purl the 2 stitches together instead of knitting them plain together. Always slip, plain, the first stitch of every row.

The narrowing of the sole, on both sides, must be done just before knitting together the last stitch of the row and the last stitch of the corresponding row of the old sole.

After the new sole has been knitted, turn the stocking on the wrong side; cut off the old sole along both sides, yet leaving a strip of 4 stitches in width on each side. Lay each strip towards the front part of the foot. Unravel them. Smooth down the ends formed by the unraveling, and fasten them to the stocking by darning over them lightly, so that this darning might not be seen on the right side of the stocking. Should the stocking require a new toe to be knitted on, then unravel the old one, pick up the stitches and knit a new toe in rounds, in one of the ways already described in the book.

HOW TO DARN STOCKINGS.

The darning of a stocking can be done in different ways. The way most generally adopted is that of cross-work darning, which looks very well when neatly worked. But the darning in imitation of the knitted stitch, although more tedious, is preferable; for, when it is well worked, it cannot be told from the knitting, except on the wrong side.

[Illustration: NO. 19. CROSS-WORK DARNING.]

No. 19—_Cross-Work Darning_.—Trim neatly the place which is to be darned, then work a foundation of threads length-wise across the opening, as is shown in illustration No. 19. This done, begin to darn across this foundation, in rows, to and fro, by taking up every other thread of the foundation. In every following row take up the thread which was not taken up in the preceding row. See illustration No. 19. The darning must be prolonged to a little distance on each side of the original opening.

[Illustration: NO. 20. DARNING IN IMITATION OF KNITTED STITCH.]

No. 20—_To Imitate the Knitted Stitch in Darning_.—This work requires careful preparation. Loosen the damaged part, above and below it, in the width, in such a way that there will remain 2 even rows of perfect loose stitches. The first and last stitches of the upper row must correspond to those of the lower row. Cut the damaged part through the middle. Fold each half back upon the inside of the stocking, where it will have to be trimmed and fastened. Work a foundation of threads across the opening, width-wise, inserting each thread into the second stitch from the edge of the opening, and making it correspond with every knitted row. See illustration No. 20.

Then work on this foundation as follows: Place the darning cotton at the left, pass the darning needle downward under the lowest of the threads of foundation, and pull gently the darning cotton, so as to form the half of a stitch. Work in same manner on the other foundation threads. After making the half stitch upon the top thread of foundation, pass the needle through the nearest upper stitch of the stocking. Turn the work. Place the darning cotton towards the right. Pass the needle downward, under the top thread of foundation, draw the cotton lightly, and in this way the first whole stitch will be formed. Continue to work in same manner on the foundation threads, until the entire work is done.

Illustrations 21 to 23 show a different way of imitating the knitted plain stitch in darning.

[Illustration: NO. 21. FOUNDATION FOR NO. 22.]

To darn after this method, remove the damaged part and prepare the opening for foundation threads in same manner as already described in preceding number. Take for foundation thread a cotton finer than the one with which the darning stitches have to be worked. Work the foundation threads _length-wise_ on the wrong side of the stocking, as shown in illustration No. 21. This done, turn the stocking on the right side and begin the darning in imitation of the knitted stitch. Work width-wise, as follows:

Pass the darning needle through the upper 2 stitches, as shown in illustration No. 22, then pass it, in the direction of the arrow, under the next 2 threads of foundation. Insert the needle into the last stitch, through which it has already passed, and pass it through the stitch next to it. Then pass it under the next 2 corresponding threads of foundation. Continue working in like manner. When the end of the row is reached, work in same stitch over the next 3 stitches of the knitting.

[Illustration: NO. 22. FORMATION OF THE DARNING STITCHES ON FOUNDATION NO. 21.]

After working over the third stitch, insert the needle downward—along the part which is not yet darned—into the upper part of that third stitch, take up the cross bar of the stitch and draw the cotton through. Then turn the work from left to right and begin the next row. When the work has come down to the lower edge of the opening, work the last row in the usual way; but, instead of passing the needle under the foundation threads, pass it through the corresponding stitches of this edge, as is shown in illustration No. 23.

When the darning is done, withdraw carefully the foundation threads. Trim the damaged part on the wrong side of the stocking, and fasten it neatly, as already stated in directions No. 20.

[Illustration: NO. 23. FINISHING OFF.]

BORDERS FOR STOCKINGS.

[Illustration: NO. 24. BORDER FOR STOCKING.]

No. 24.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 7. The first 5 rounds knit plain.

6th round.—Make 1, knit 2 together, plain, alternately to end of round.

7th to 11th rounds.—Alternate 1 purl, 1 plain.

12th round.—Pick up on other knitting needles the stitches of the first round (the stitches cast on) and knit each of them with each stitch of the 11th round.

13th, 14th and 15th rounds.—Purl.

16th round.—* Make 1, purl 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat from * to end of round.

17th round.—Knit plain.

18th round.—* Make 1, 1 plain, purl 2 together, 4 plain. Repeat from *.

19th round.—Knit plain.

20th round.—* Make 1, 2 plain, purl 2 together, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

21st round.—Knit plain.

22d round.—* Make 1, 3 plain, purl 2 together, 2 plain. Repeat from *.

23d round.—Knit plain.

24th round.—* Make 1, 4 plain, purl 2 together, 1 plain. Repeat from *.

25th round.—Knit plain.

26th round.—* Make 1, 5 plain, purl 2 together. Repeat from *.

27th round.—Knit plain.

28th round.—* 2 plain, purl 2 together, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

29th round.—Knit plain.

30th round.—* 1 plain, purl 2 together, 1 plain, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

31st round.—Knit plain.

32d round.—* Purl 2 together, 2 plain, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

33d round.—Knit plain.

In rounds 34, 36 and 38, slip 1 stitch of the last needle upon the first needle, and purl that stitch with the following stitch together.

34th round.—* Purl 2 together, 3 plain, make 1, 2 plain. Repeat from *.

35th round.—Knit plain.

36th round.—* Purl 2 together, 4 plain, make 1, 1 plain. Repeat from *.

37th round.—Knit plain.

38th round.—* Purl 2 together, 5 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

[Illustration: NO. 25. BORDER FOR STOCKING.]

For Border No. 25 cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8. Knit 8 rounds plain.

9th round.—* Slip 1, 1 plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 1 plain, make 1. Repeat from * to end of round.

10th to 17th rounds.—Knit plain.

18th round.—Pick up on other needles the stitches of the first round (that is, the stitches cast on) and knit each of them with each stitch of the 17th round. Then begin the design.

1st round.—* Purl 2, make 1, 4 plain, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from * to end of round.

2d round.—* Purl 2, 1 plain, make 1, 3 plain, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

3d round.—* Purl 2, 2 plain, make 1, 2 plain, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

4th round.—* Purl 2, 3 plain, make 1, 1 plain, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

5th round.—* Purl 2, 4 plain, make 1, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

Repeat this design twice and then work the following 2 rounds like the 9th and 10th rounds, already described.

[Illustration: NO. 26. BORDER FOR STOCKING.]

Border No. 26.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8. Knit the lower edge of the design as described in preceding number. Then work the design as follows:

1st round.—* Purl 3, make 1, knit 2 together, plain, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

2d round.—* Purl 3, make 1, 1 plain, knit 2 together, plain, 2 plain. Repeat from *.

3d round.—* Purl 3, make 1, 2 plain, knit 2 together, plain, 1 plain. Repeat from *.

4th round.—* 3 Purl, make 1, 3 plain, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

5th round.—* Purl 3, 3 plain, knit 2 together, plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

6th round.—* Purl 3, 2 plain, knit 2 together, plain, 1 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

7th round.—* Purl 3, 1 plain, knit 2 together, plain, 2 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

8th round.—* Purl 3, knit 2 together, plain, 3 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

Repeat this design until the desired breadth of border is reached.

[Illustration: NO. 27. BORDER FOR STOCKING.]

No. 27.—The lower edge of this border is scalloped and worked as follows:

Cast on the number of stitches required for the stocking.

Knit 4 rounds plain.

5th round.—* Make 1, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from * to end of round.

Knit plain the next 4 rounds.

Then pick up on other needles the stitches of the first round (that is, the stitches cast on) and knit each of these stitches with each of the stitches of the ninth round. Begin the design.

1st round.—* Make 1, 1 twist stitch (knitted from the back), knit 2 together in twist stitch, purl 1. Repeat from *.

2d round.—* 3 plain—the first of the 3 is formed from the newly made stitch in the last round—purl 1. Repeat from * to end of round.

The design consists of these 2 rounds, which are alternately repeated until the border has reached its desired breadth. Finish the border with 2 rounds of purled stitches.

[Illustration: NO. 28. BORDER FOR STOCKING.]

No. 28.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 13.

1st round.—1 twist stitch, purl 1, 1 twist stitch, purl 3. In the following 4 stitches the 1st and 4th must be crossed by knitting first the 4th stitch plain, so that it will lay over the 1st one; then, purl the 2d and 3d; knit the 1st stitch plain. This done, purl 3. Repeat from *.

2d round.—* 1 twist stitch, 1 plain, 1 twist stitch, 3 purl, 1 plain, 2 purl, 1 plain, 3 purl. Repeat from *. Knit 4 rounds more like this second round; but from now on the 1 plain worked between the 2 twist stitches must, in 1 round, alternate with 1 plain, and in the other with 1 purl.

Then repeat again from 1st round.

[Illustration: NO. 29. BORDER FOR STOCKING.]

No. 29.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 7.

1st round.—* 5 purl, make 1, purl 2 together. Repeat from *.

2d to 7th rounds.—* 6 purl, 1 plain. Repeat from *. The 1 plain in the second round is formed by knitting plain the 1 made stitch of the first round.

Repeat so that every other design will correspond. See illustration No. 29.

[Illustration: NO. 30. BORDER FOR STOCKING.]

No. 30.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 21. Knit in rounds as follows:

1st round.—* Make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 3 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

2d round.—* 1 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 3 purl. Then work 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

3d round.—* Make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 3 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

4th round.—* 3 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 1 purl, narrow (_i. e._, purl 2 together). Then work 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

5th round.—* Make 1, 1 plain, make 1, narrow plain, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 2 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

6th round.—* 5 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 2 purl. Then 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

7th round.—* Make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: narrow, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

8th round.—* 7 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 1 purl. Then 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

9th round.—* Make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 1 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

10th round.—* 9 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 1 purl. Then 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

11th round.—* Make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 plain stitch, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 1 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

12th round.—* 11 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 1 purl. Then work 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

13th round.—* Make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 1 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

14th round.—* 13 plain, 1 twist stitch. Narrow 5 times in twist stitch. Repeat from *.

15th round.—* Alternate 3 times: make 1, narrow. Then make 1, 1 plain. Alternate 3 times: make 1, narrow. Then make 1, 6 twist stitches. Repeat from *.

16th round.—15 plain. Knit on a special needle the following 6 stitches, then wind the cotton 4 times, just below, around the 6 stitches just knitted. Slip the 6 stitches on the working needle. Knit plain the next 15 stitches, etc.

Repeat the design from first round, but in such a manner as to form pattern shown in illustration No. 30.

[Illustration: NO. 31. BORDER FOR STOCKING.]

No. 31.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 5. Knit plain the first 5 rounds.

6th round.—* Make 2, narrow 2 stitches. Repeat from *.

7th round.—* With the 2 made stitches of last round alternate 1 plain, 1 purl. Work 1 plain. Repeat from *.

8th to 11th rounds.—Alternate to end of round, 2 purl, 1 plain.

12th round.—Pick up on special needles the stitches of 1st round (_i. e._, the stitches cast on), and knit each of them with each stitch of the 11th round.

13th round.—Make 1, knit 2 together, plain, alternately to end of round.

14th round.—Knit plain.

15th and 16th rounds.—Purl.

17th round.—Knit plain.

18th round.—* 3 purl, knit 2 together, plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

19th to 21st rounds.—3 purl, 2 plain, alternately to end of round.

22d round.—* 3 purl, make 1, narrow. Repeat from *.

23d to 25th rounds.—* 3 purl, 2 plain. Repeat from *.

Repeat from 18th to 25th rounds, inclusive, until the required breadth of border is reached.

[Illustration: NO. 32. BORDER FOR STOCKING.]

No. 32.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 9.

1st to 3d rounds.—Purl.

4th round.—* 2 plain, purl 2 together twice, 2 plain, make 1, 1 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

5th round.—* 2 plain, 2 purl, 5 plain. Repeat from *.

Alternate 12 times the 4th and 5th rounds.

[Illustration: NO. 33. BORDER FOR STOCKING.]

No. 33.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8.

1st round.—* 8 plain, make 1 plain by knitting the thread connecting the 8th and 9th stitches. Repeat from * to end of round.

2d and 3d rounds.—* 8 plain, slip 1 stitch, viz.: the stitch which has been formed from the thread connecting the 8th and 9th stitches of last round. Repeat from *.

4th round.—* Knit 2 together, plain, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1 plain, viz.: the stitch which was slipped in the 2 last rounds. Repeat from *.

5th to 7th rounds.—8 purl, 1 plain, alternately to end of round.

Repeat the design from 1st to 7th rounds, inclusive; but, instead of making in the 1st round 1 plain by knitting the connecting thread, slip the stitch coming after the 8 plain.

FANCY DESIGNS FOR KNITTING.

[Illustration: NO. 34. FANCY STITCH.]

No. 34.—This design is worked on 2 needles, in rows, to and fro. Cast on 27 stitches.

1st row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow (_i. e._, knit 2 together, plain), make 1, 3 plain, 1 purl, 2 plain, narrow, 1 purl, narrow, 2 plain, 1 purl, 3 plain, make 1, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

2d row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 4 purl, 1 plain, 3 purl, 1 plain, 3 purl, 1 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

3d row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, narrow, 1 purl, narrow, 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, narrow, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

4th row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 5 purl, 1 plain, 2 purl, 1 plain, 2 purl, 1 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

5th row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, 3 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 purl, narrow, 1 purl, narrow, 1 purl, narrow, make 1, 3 plain, make 1, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

6th row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 6 purl, 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

7th row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, 5 plain, make 1, knit 3 together, 1 purl, knit 3 together, make 1, 5 plain, make 1, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

8th row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 8 purl, 1 plain, 8 purl, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

Repeat the design from 1st to 8th rows, inclusive.

[Illustration: NO. 35. FANCY STITCH.]

No. 35.—1st row.—Knit plain.

2d row.—* 2 purl, knit 2 together, plain, in twist stitch, make 1. Repeat from *.

3d row.—Knit plain.

4th row.—* 2 purl, make 1, knit 2 together, plain, in twist stitch.

[Illustration: NO. 36. FANCY STITCH.]

No. 36.—For this design cast on the number of stitches required for the length of the work. Knit in rows, as follows:

1st row.—Plain.

2d row.—* Knit 3 together, plain, make 3 (_i. e._, knit in the next stitch 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain). Repeat from *.

3d row.—Knit plain.

4th row.—* Make 3 (_i. e._, knit in next stitch 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain), knit 3 together, plain. Repeat from *.

Then begin again from 1st row.

[Illustration: NO. 37. FANCY STITCH.]

No. 37.—1st row.—* 1 plain, make 1, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

2d row.—* Make 1, knit 2 together, plain (_i. e._, knit together the next stitch and the made stitch of last row), 1 purl.

[Illustration: NO. 38. FANCY STITCH.]

No. 38.—This pretty design is worked in rows, to and fro, as follows:

1st to 3d rows.—3 plain, 3 purl, alternately to end of row.

4th row.—* 3 purl, make 1, knit 3 together, plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

Then repeat again from 1st row.

[Illustration: NO. 39. FANCY STITCH.]

No. 39.—Cast on the required number of stitches, and knit in plain and purled rows as follows:

1st row.—Slip 1 stitch, * knit 3 together, plain, make 1. Repeat from *.