CHAPTER XVI
GREECE
Grecian Dishes--Athens.
No one lives better than a well-to-do Greek outside his own country, and when he is in Greece his cook manages to do a great deal with comparatively slight material. A Greek cook can make a skewered pigeon quite palatable, and the number of ways he has of cooking quails, from the simple method of roasting them cased in bay leaves to all kinds of mysterious bakings after they have been soused in oil, are innumerable. There are _pillaus_ without number in the Greek cuisine, chiefly of lamb, and it is safe to take for granted that anything _à la Grec_ is likely to be something savoury, with a good deal of oil, a suspicion of onion, a flavour of parsley, and a good deal of rice with it. These, however, are some of the most distinctive dishes:--_Coucouretzi_, the entrails and liver of lamb, roasted on a spit; _Bligouri_, wheat coarsely ground, cooked in broth, and eaten with grated cheese; _Argokalamara_, a paste of flour and yolk of egg fried in butter with honey poured over it. All Greek cooking, as all Turkish is, should be done very slowly over a charcoal fire. A too great use of oil is the besetting sin of the indifferent Greek cook. The egg-plant is treated in half-a-dozen ways by the Greeks, stuffing them with some simple forced meat being the most common.
The food of the peasant is grain, rice, goat when he can get it, a skinny fowl as a great delicacy, milk, and strong cheese. A bunch of grapes and a piece of sour bread forms a feast for him.
The Grecian wines are not unpalatable but very light. They are mostly exported to Vienna, being fortified previous to their departure to enable them to stand the voyage, and again manipulated on their arrival, so that their original characteristics are considerably obliterated.
Athens
My trusted _collaborateur_ A.B. went on a yachting tour in Grecian waters last spring, having a special intention of studying Greek restaurants. He wrote to me as to Athens, and his report was short and to the point: "Outside the hotels there is but one café, Solon's, principally used as a political rendezvous. Its attractions are of the most meagre description." A most grave _littérateur_ to whom, as he had been lately travelling in Greece, and as I had not been there for ten years, I applied for supplementary information, applied the adjective "beastly" to all Greek restaurants, and added that the one great crying need of Greece and Athens is an American bar for the sale of cooling drinks in the Parthenon.
N.N.-D.
INDEX
Aachen, 135
Abbaye de Thélème Restaurant, 33
_Acqua Litiosa di S. Marco_, 171
_Agnolotti_, 158
Aix-la-Chapelle, 135
Aix-les-Bains, 74
Albergo Giappone, Leghorn, 170
Algeciras, 192
Allemania, Frankfurt, 128
Alster Café, Hamburg, 143
Ambassadeurs Restaurant, 27
Ambleteuse, 37
Amsterdam, 109
Anglais, Café, 5, 6, 8
_Anguille di Comacchio_, 166
Antwerp, 83
_Ardei Ungelute_, 207
_Argokalamara_, 230
Arles, 73
_Arselle alla Marinara_, 171
Artichokes, 48, 173
Asparagus, 3
Athens, 231
Aubanel, M., 29
_Aubergines_, 227
_Bacalas_, 179
_Bacchio e Capretto alla Cacciatora_, 174
Bachelier, 65
_Baclava_, 207
Bad Gastein, 204
Baden, 198
Baden-Baden, 134
_Barbue Paillard_, 13 _Durand_, 17 _à la Russe_, 18
Barcelona, 180
_Baron d'agneau Henri IV._, 12
Bars, 31
Basle, 153
Bauernschänke, Berlin, 150
Bauer's Café, Berlin, 149
Bayonne Restaurant, 50, 51
Beaufils, 38
Beaulieu, 60
Beauvillier's Café, 4
_Bécasse Flambée_, 18 _au Fumet_, 12
Beer, 103, 117, 120, 121, 128, 129, 138, 196 cellars, 114
Belgium, 79
Belvedere Restaurant, Dresden, 118
Béquet, 42
Berk, 37
Berlin, 144
Bern, 154
Bertrand's Restaurant, 84
Biarritz, 52
Bignon's Café, 4
Birds, 3, 82, 98
_Biscuit Foyot_, 25
Blanche Restaurant, 33
_Bligouri_, 230
Bobadilla, 190
_Boeuf, Côte de, braisé Empire_, 12
Boeuf à la mode Restaurant, 21
Bologna, 166
Borchard's Restaurant, Berlin, 146
Bordeaux, 50 Café de, 50, 51
Borel, 4
_Bouillabaisse_, 41, 54, 55, 73, 76
Bouillon Riche Restaurant, 27
_Bouillons_, 34
Boulogne, 36
Bouzoum, Madame, 71
_Brandade_, 55
Bratwurstglöcklein, 123
Brest, 49
Breton menu, 48
Brill, 2
Bristol Restaurant, Berlin, 145
Broccoli, 174
Broche à Rotir, 42
Bruges, 88
Brun, Hôtel (Bologna), 166
Brussels, restaurants at, 93, 103
Bucarest, 208
Budapesth, 204
Buerose Restaurant, Frankfurt, 128
Burdel, M., 8
Burgos, 187
Burgundy, 80, 88, 94, 100, 109
_Busecca_, 160
Cabois, 38
Cabourg, 43
Cadiz and Jerez, 191
Caen, 44
Caesario, 18
Café de Paris, 30 Américain, 30 de la Cascade, 29 de la Paix, 30
_Caille à la Souvaroff_, 18
Calais, 35
_Caldo_, 179
_Canapé Clarence Mackay_, 23
_Canard Pompéienne_, 26 _à la Presse_, 3, 17
Cancale, 47
_Caneton de Rouen au Sang_, 18
_Caneton Rouennaise_, 42
Cannes, 56
_Capeletti_, 158
_Carbonades Flamandes_, 81
_Cardons_, 160
Carlsbad, 199
_Carpe à la Gelée_, 5
Casimir, 4
Casino, Hôtel du, Cherbourg, 46 Municipal, Biarritz, 52
_Castagnacci alla Pisana_, 169
Caviar, 143, 207, 208, 212
Cellars, 7, 10, 25
_Cèpes à la Bordelaise_, 51
Chabas, M. Paul, 73
Champagne, 99, 100, 116, 148
Champeaux Restaurant, 22
Chapon Fin, 50, 51
_Charcutiers_, 44
"Charles," 11
Château de Madrid, 28 Laroque, 89
Chateaubriand, 22
Cherbourg, 46
_Cheslas_, 208
Cheval Blanc Restaurant, 43
Chevillard's Restaurant, 28
_Choesels à la Bruxelloise_, 81
_Choux Farcies_, 43
Cider, 43, 45
_Cinghiale in agro dolce_, 174
_Ciulama_, 207
Claret, 50
Clermont-Ferrand, 78
Club restaurant, 31
_Codeghino_, 167
Coffee, 93, 136
Cologne, 129
Colon Restaurant, Barcelona, 181
_Confit d'Oie_, 69
_Consommé Fortunato_, 15 _Baigneuse_, 17
Constantinople, 226
Cost of dinners, 8, 14, 17, 29, 34, 39, 40, 48, 65, 80, 84, 88, 89, 229
_Côte de Boeuf à la Russe_, 107
_Cotelette alla Marsigliese_, 162 _à la Milanese_, 162
_Cotelettes d'Izard mariné_, 69
_Coucouretzi_, 230
_Crème de Langoustines_, 65 _Germiny_, 13
_Crêpes des Gourmets_, 15 _Suzette_, 18
Criterium Restaurant, Antwerp, 84
_Croûtes au Champignons_, 39
D'Hortesio's Café, 4
Denmark, 215
_Désir, Le, de Roi_, 11
Dieppe, 37
Dinard, 47
Dîner Français Restaurant, 34
Dresden, 114, 121
Dressel Restaurant, Berlin, 147
Drouet, Henri, 14
Ducordet, M., 38
Dugleré, 2, 8
Durand's Restaurant, 14, 16, 30
Düsseldorf, 128
Echénard, M., 54
_Ecrevisses Bordelaises_, 39, 76 _Régina_, 96
Eggs, 48
Elysée Palace Hotel, 18
Ems, 135
Ermitage Restaurant, 219
Estoril, 195
Etaples, 37
_Faina_, 163
_Faisan à la Financière_, 3
_Fegatini di pollo_, 169
_Fegato alla Veneziana_, 166
Ferme St-Siméon, 43
Fiësoli, 169
Figs, 163, 169
_Filet de Lièvre Arnold White_, 23 _Paillard_, 12 _Selle Czarine_, 12
_Filet de Sole_, 12 _Cardinal_, 23 _Gibbs_, 23 _Martin_, 184 _Mornay_, 8 _Noël_, 21 _La Peyrouse_, 25
Fishes, 2, 21, 53, 64
Florence, 168
_Fonduta_, 160
Fowls, 2
Foyot's Restaurant, 11, 22, 25
Français Restaurant, Nice, 58 Restaurant, 42
France, Hôtel de, Cherbourg, 47
Frankfurt-am-Main, 126
Frankfurter Hof, 126
Frascati's Restaurant, 39
"Frederic," 11, 23
_Fritto Misto_, 158, 171 _di Calamaretti_, 174 _Picatto_, 162
_Friture du Pays_, 53
Gaillon Restaurant, 11, 14
Game, 3, 116, 219
Garbure soup, 69
Garnier, Restaurant, 36
_Gazpaco_, 179
Geneva, 154, 155
Genoa, 163
German restaurant, 31 cooking, 110
_Germiny, Crème_, 13
Ghent, 80
_Ghiveci_, 208
_Gianduiotti_, 160
Gieshübl, 202
_Gigot de sept heures_, 9
_Glace Gismonda_, 18
_Gnocchi di Patele_, 174
Gothenburg, 213
_Goulache_, 204
Graff, M. Paul, 38
Grand Hôtel de l'Europe, Spa, 87
Grand Port, 76 Revard, 76
Grand Seize, 5, 7, 8
Greece, 230
Grenada, 191
_Grissini_, 160
_Grives à la Namuroise_, 82
Grouse, 83
Gudgeon, 2
Guépet, 4
Guichard, 71, 72
Guillemin, 27
Hague, 105
Hamburg, 138
Hanover, 124
Hardi, Café, 4
_Hareng Lucas_, 22
Hartmann's Restaurant, 197
Hasselbacken Restaurant, 210
Havre, 38
Helder Restaurant, 66, 92
Henrion's Grand Hotel, Aachen, 135
Henri's Restaurant, Gaillon, 14
Heyste, 89
_Hochepot Gantois_, 81
Hofbrauhaus, Munich, 121
Holland, 105
_Homard Cardinal_, 12, 197 _à l'Américaine_, 41, 45, 107 _Foyot_, 25 _chaud a beurre truffé_, 148
Homburg, 131
Honfleur, 43
_Huitres Titania_, 197
Irish stew, 96
Isnard's Restaurant, 56
Italian cookery, 157 restaurants, 31
"Joseph," 11, 23
Julia, Mlle., 49
Julien's Café, 30
Justin's Restaurant, Barcelona, 180
Kaiserkeller, Berlin, 150
_Kastanato_, 227
_Kebap_, 227
_Keinfté_, 227
Kempinsky's Restaurant, Berlin, 147
Kiel, 137
Kneist, Dresden, 120
Lafosse's Restaurant, 37
Laiterie, Brussels, 152
Lampreys, 2, 51
La Peyrouse Restaurant, 22, 25
La Rue's Restaurant, 16, 30
Laurent's Restaurant, 26
Ledoyen's Restaurant, 27
L'Etoile, Brussels, 100
Lefebvre, 38
Leghorn, 170
Leipzig, 125
Le Navigateur, 25
Lennertz's Restaurant, Aachen, 136
Liqueurs, 22
Lisbon, 180, 192
Lobsters, 45, 48
London House, Nice, 58
Lucas's Restaurant, 21, 32
Lucerne, 153
_Maccheroni_, 158
Madrid, 187
Madrid, Restaurant de, 44
Maire's Restaurant, 20, 26, 30
Maison Dorée, Barcelona, 184
Maison Grossetête, 14 d'Or Café, 4, 6, 8
Malmö, 213
_Mamaliguzza_, 208
Marguery's Restaurant, 21
Marienbad, 203
Marivaux Café, 11
Marseilles, 54
Martigues, 73
Maxim's Restaurant, 30
Médoc, 96, 97
_Meizanne_, 163
Mentone, 68
Menus, 7, 9, 13, 15, 17, 19, 28, 48, 53, 58, 59, 63, 64, 66, 67, 80, 87, 97, 107, 108, 132, 140, 141, 144, 146, 148, 156, 164, 181, 182, 183, 185, 188, 192, 193, 206, 208, 211, 214, 220, 228
Milan, 161
_Militei_, 207
Milk, 28, 37
_Minestrone_, 53, 158, 161, 163
Monte Carlo, 61
_Mortadella_, 167
_Moscardini_, 163
Moscow, 218
Mottez's Restaurant, 81
_Moules à la marinière_, 99
Mourier, M., 30
_Moussaka_, 227
_Mozzarelle in carozza_, 176
Munich, 121
Mushrooms, 20
Mutton, 47
Naples, 174
Nassauer Hof, Wiesbaden, 133
_Nässelkalsoppa_, 211
National Hotel, Lucerne, 153
Neues Palais de Saxe, Dresden, 119
Nice, 58
Nîmes, 74
Noailles Hotel, Marseilles, 54
Noel Peter's Restaurant, 21
_Noisettes de Veau Port Mahon_, 15
Normandie, Hôtel de, 40
Norway, 214
Notta, 11
Nuremberg, 122 hotels, 124
Odessa, 224
_Oeufs Claude Lowther_, 23
_Omelette Sibérienne_, 107 _Soufflés_, 136
_Oranges à l'Infante_, 197
_Ortolans en surprise_, 13
_Ossobuco_, 162
Ostend, 89
Oysters, 32, 45, 47, 49, 52, 60, 136, 147 cellars, 142
Paillard's Restaurant, 11, 26, 30
Palast Hotel, Furstenhof, 127 Berlin, 147
Palermo, 177
Palmen Garten, Frankfurt, 127
_Panettone_, 162
_Paprika_, 204
_Paprikahuhn_, 204
Paris and cookery, 1 Café de, 4 Plage, 37 Restaurant de, 42
Park Hotel, Düsseldorf, 128
Partridges, 3, 83, 201
_Paste asciutte_, 158
_Pasticcio di Maccheroni_, 174
_Pasqualina_, 163
_Pattona alla Pisana_, 169
Pau, 71
Pavillion d'Armenonville, 28 Bleu, 34 Henri IV., 34
_Pêches Flambées_, 18
Pepin Restaurant, 44
_Pepperoni_, 160
_Perdreau et Caille Paillard_, 13
_Perdrix au choux_, 3, 107
_Perpadelle_, 158 _col Ragout_, 167
Perrier's Restaurant, 41
Peyrafitte, Joseph, 72
Pforte's Restaurant, Hamburg, 138
Phillipe's Café, 4, 34
Pisa, 169
_Pizzaiola, Steak alla_, 176 _Pizza alla_, 176
_Plattär_, 214
_Poire Wannamaker_, 23 _Alaska_, 107
_Pollo en padella_, 174
_Polpette à la Milanese_, 162
_Polpi alla Luciana_, 176
_Pomme Otero_, 12 _Georgette_, 12 _Macaire_, 12
Port Bou, 184
_Potage Henri IV._, 17 _Foyot_, 25 _Germiny_, 8 _Reine_, 18
Potatoes, 48
Poulard Aîné, Mont St-Michel, 48
_Poularde Maison d'Or_, 5 _Archiduc_, 12 _à la Derby_, 12 _à la Parisienne_, 107 _Réservé en Cocotte Raviolis_, 55 _à la Santos Dumont_, 65 _Wladimir_, 12, 197
_Poule au pot Henri IV._, 107
_Poulet Sauté Grand Duc_, 17 _Maire_, 21 _Sauté petits diables_, 17
Pourville, 38
Prague, 204
Prawns, 17, 43, 48
_Presciutto con fichi_, 169
Prices charged at restaurants, 8, 14, 17, 29, 34, 39, 40, 43, 45, 50, 52, 57, 58, 61, 63, 66, 75, 88, 96, 97, 105, 115, 119, 128, 134, 136, 144, 147, 148, 155, 164, 166, 181, 183, 201, 209, 210, 212, 219, 221, 223
Prinz Wilhelm Café, Berlin, 149
Provence, 73
Prunier's restaurant, 32
_Pucca baruca_, 166
_Puchero_, 179
Puloski's Restaurant, 32
Puys, 38
Pyrenees, the, 69
Quadri, Restaurant, Venice, 164
Rat Mort Restaurant, 33
Rathskeller, 113 Hamburg, 143 Wiesbaden, 134
_Ravioli_, 158
Regence, restaurant, Nice, 59
Reichshof, Berlin, 149
Remoulins, 74
Reserve, café, Marseilles, 54 Cannes, 56 Restaurant de la (Beaulieu), 60
Restaurant, good cheap, 33
Restaurant Ré, 66 des Fleurs, 31 Summer, 26
Riche, Café, 4
_Risotto_, 158, 171 _Certosino_, 162 _Milanese_, 162
Ritz, Hôtel, 14, 18
Ritz, M., 153
_Riz de Veau Foyot_, 25
Rocher de Cancale, restaurant, 4, 84
Roches Noire, 43
_Rognone Trifolato_, 160
Rome, 172
_Rôti Kouzoum_, 227
Rotterdam, 109
Rouen, 42
_Rouennais Paillard_, 12 _à la Presse_, 12
Roumania, 207
Rudesheimer restaurant, 149
Rumpelmayer, 71, 76
Russian restaurant, 31 dishes, 217
Sacher's Restaurant, Vienna, 197
_Salade Gauloise_, 18 _Georgette_, 17 _Idéale_, 12 _de Princesses Liégeoises_, 81 _Russe_, 39
Salamanca, 5
San Sebastian, 184
Santander, 187
Sardines, 2, 48
_Sarmalute_, 207
Sauerkraut, 111
Scheveningen, 109
_Schiacciata_, 169
Schweitzerhof, Lucerne, 153
_Scordolea_, 207
_Selianka_, 218
Seville, 189
Shrimps, 37, 43
_Smörgasbord_, 212, 214
Snails, 32
_Sole au vin Rouge_, 5 _Marguery_, 21 _Normande_, 36, 42, 107 _Paillard_, 12 _Waleska_, 65
_Sole, filet de, à la Russe_, 12 _Egyptiennes_, 65 _Kotchoubey_, 12
Soles, 2
_Sopa de Camarao_, 194
Sou Fassu, 73
_Soufflé Palmyre_, 107
_Soufflé Pôle Nord_, 17 _King Edward VII._, 197
Spa, 85
_Spagetti_, 158, 177
_Spagetti alle Vongole_, 176
_Spaghetti a sugo di carne_, 171
Spanish restaurants, 31 cookery, 178
Spezzia, 167
_Spigola_, 176
_Srazis_, 218
St-Cloud, 34
St-Germain, 34
St-Malo, 47
St-Petersburg, 222
St-Remy, 74
Stadt Gotha Restaurant, Dresden, 119
Stephan Keller, 197
_Stocafisso alla Genovese_, 163
Stockholm, 210
Storvik, 213
_Stracotto_, 169
_Suprême de Volaille Grand Duc_, 12
Switzerland, 151
Sylvain's Restaurant, 22, 30
Tarascon, 73
_Tavernes_, 30, 32, 34
_Terrine de Fois Gras à la gelée au Porto_, 13
_Tettachine_, 158
Thurion's Restaurant, 33
Thürnagel Restaurant, Düsseldorf, 128
Tiedemann and Grahl's Restaurant, 119
_Timbale de queues d'Ecrevisses, Mantua_, 12
Tirlemont, 79
Tomatoes, 176
Topper's Café, Berlin, 149
Tortoni's Restaurant, 38 brasserie, 39
Tour d'Argent, 11, 22
_Tournedos à la Rossini_, 18
Tréteau de Tabarin Restaurant, 32
_Triglie alla Livornese_, 171
_Trinetti_, 158
_Tripes à la mode de Caen_, 44
Trois Frères Provençeaux Café, 4
Trout, 2, 28, 77, 116, 154, 197, 201
Trouville Deauville, 43
Truffles, 160
Turin, 159
Turkey, 220
Turkeys, Norfolk, 3
Tuscan dinner, 170
_Uova di Bufola_, 174
Van der Pyl's Restaurant, 105
Veal, 2
_Veau à la Casserole_, 4
Vegetable dishes, 3
Venice, 164
Veron, Café, 4
Very, Café, 4
Vichy, 77
Vienna, 196 wines, 196
Viennese restaurants, 31
Vieux Calvados, 45
Villa Julia, La, at Pont Avin, 48
Villefranche, 61
_Vitello Uccelletto_, 163
Voisin's Café, 6, 9
Walnuts, 177
Warsaw, 225
_Waterzoei de Poulet_, 81
Wiesbaden, 133
Wine cellars, 198
Wines, 21, 22, 25, 27, 28, 29, 32, 34, 38, 41, 45, 50, 61, 70, 87, 88, 116, 150, 155, 159, 160, 162, 164, 174, 177, 180, 193, 196, 198, 201, 205 Amarena di Siracusa, 177 Bordeaux, 141 Chianti, 169 Diamante, 181 Dragasani, 208 Marsala, 177 Moscato di Siracusa, 177 Moselle, 128 Rhine, 129, 149 Rioja, 181 Valdepenàs, 180
Wimille, 37
Woodcocks, 82, 102 feast, 82
_Yachni_, 227
_Yalandji Dolmas_, 227
_Yaourt_, 227
Zabajone, 158, 165
Zaragoza, 187
_Zucchini Ripieni_, 160
Zum Weissen Rössl, Berlin, 150
_Zuppa di Vongole_, 176 _Inglese_, 174 _Datteri_, 167 _Peoci_, 165 _Pesce_, 173
THE END
_Printed by_ R. & R. Clark, Limited. _Edinburgh._
Transcriber's Notes
Page 20, Is is corrected to It is
Page 150, Räuberhotle corrected to Räuberhohle
Page 150, Zunweissen corrected to Zum Weissen (also in Index)
Page 158, paste corrected to pasta, "another pasta dish"
In the Index, added reference to Page 13 in the entry for Perdreau et Caille Paillard.
Some spellings and accents are used inconsistently throughout the text. They have been left as in the original since they are potentially intentional.
End of Project Gutenberg's The Gourmet's Guide to Europe, by Algernon Bastard