CHAPTER I.

_The Palaces of Brussels_--Palace of the Prince of Orange--Embarrassment of the government respecting it--Description of the interior--_Chambers of the Belgian legislature_--Palais de la Nation--Constitution of Belgium--Variable franchise--Removal of the picture of Waterloo--THE PARK--Singular scenes of the revolution--Curious account of the adventures of an English party at the Hôtel de Bellevue during the riots at Brussels--_Works of the Société du Renard at Brussels_--The road to Antwerp--Villas--Old châteaux--House of Rubens and Teniers--The village of Vieux Dieux--Appearance of the country--_The tower of the cathedral_--Fortifications--Narrow streets--Palace of Napoleon--The houses--_History of Antwerp_--Festival of the ladies’ eve--Immense commerce in the sixteenth century--Closing of the Scheldt in 1648--Projects of Napoleon for Antwerp--Arsenal and locks--_Trade from 1815 to 1830_--Affected by the revolution--Transit trade of Belgium--Absurd system of competition with Holland--RUBENS--Fêtes in his honour--Modern painters--_Verboeckhoven_--_The Museum_--Rubens’ genius--The Crucifixion--The adoration of the Magi--Vandyke--_The cathedral_--View from the tower--Crucifix made from the statue of Alva--Monument of Quentin Metsys--Interior of the church--_Rubens’ Descent from the Cross_--The tomb of Rubens in the Church of St. Jacques--_Church of St. Paul_--The Calvary and Purgatory--Aspect of a Roman Catholic place of worship--A lady of Antwerp at vespers--_St. Andrews’ Church_--Superb pulpit--Monument to Mary Queen of Scotland--Dinner with M. David--Want of carpets in continental houses--THE CITADEL--Extraordinary scene--General Chassé--The patriot army--The singular history of its three commanders--The bombardment--Places at the theatre to see the siege. 1