CHAPTER XXXVI.

MR COLQUHOUN’S ARRIVAL—PRINCE DEVAN—CHARACTER OF THE KING—VISIT TO PRINCE DEVAN—MEMORANDUM ON THE RAILWAYS—GRANT REQUIRED FOR FURTHER EXPLORATION—INTERVIEW WITH THE KING—TERMS REQUIRED BY SYNDICATES—SIAM‘S CREDIT—THE CONNECTION WITH BURMAH—EXCURSION INTO EASTERN SIAM—NAI SIN—AN OFFICIAL OF 2500 MARKS—POO BAH—GOLDEN OPPORTUNITIES—TRUMPERY FORTIFICATIONS—AFTER THE STORM—THE BANG PA KONG RIVER—LEGEND OF THE KOW DIN—AN INFATUATED MONK—CHINESE IN SIAM—ESTIMATE OF POPULATION—CHINESE IMMIGRANTS AND THEIR DESCENDANTS—MARKING THE PEOPLE—UNSCRUPULOUS GOVERNMENT MASTERS—THEIR LITTLE GAMES—A VAST PLAIN—LITTLE CULTIVATION—LOVELY SCENERY—TRAMWAY TO THE GOLD-MINES—RETURN TO BANGKOK—DR M‘GILVARY’S OPINION UPON THE PROJECTED RAILWAYS—ONE OF THE GRAND WORKS OF THE CENTURY.

When Mr Colquhoun arrived, Mr Satow arranged an interview for us with Prince Devawongse. This prince, who is colloquially termed Prince Devan, like most Siamese is small in stature. His appearance was boyish, and although perhaps thirty years of age, he did not look more than twenty. He was then acting as private secretary to the king, filled the post of Chancellor of the Exchequer, and had the character of being a person of great tact, discretion, and ability. His post as confidential adviser to the king must have been a difficult one, because his Majesty, although well-meaning and even well-doing by spurts, is said to be infirm of purpose and irresolute, indulging in half-measures, and becoming wearied and languid before he has fully carried out a reform. There is therefore no continuity in his actions, and he becomes exasperated at constantly recurring abuses being thrust upon his attention. One cannot expect much continuous energy or backbone in a potentate who is credited with a harem containing about eight hundred wives and concubines.

Prince Devan, who is believed to be in earnest in wishing to reform the administration of the country and to ameliorate the condition of the people, received us courteously, and after shaking hands, offered us cigars and ordered tea to be served. We entered into the purpose of our visit, explained the advisability of opening up Siam by railways, and of connecting it with our seaport of Maulmain, and pointed out on a map the direction of the projected lines. He listened with great attention, discussed the matter intelligently, and remarked that his Majesty the king was fully awake to the importance of developing the resources of the country by means of railways. The king, he said, had always been well-disposed towards England, and would look favourably upon the project for connecting his dominions with Burmah. He would arrange an interview for us with the king, and would be obliged if we would send him a memorandum on the subject of the projected railways to lay before his Majesty before we were presented.

In the memorandum drawn out by us and forwarded to the prince we proposed[29]—

(1) A main line from Bangkok to Kiang Hsen.

(2) A branch line to Luang Prabang.

(3) A branch line to Korat.

(4) A branch line to connect the main line with Maulmain.

We pointed out the commercial, strategic, and administrative advantages of our projected system, and entered into the methods of construction, explaining that the railways might be executed by one of the following three methods:—

(_a_) By the State out of Government funds.

(_b_) By granting concessions (land, &c.) and a small guarantee.

(_c_) By granting a considerable guarantee, pure and simple.

We stated that should the king sanction the introduction of railways, it would be for his Majesty to decide on which system they should be constructed. If by either the second or third, we believed a private company could be formed in London to undertake the enterprise on moderate terms.

We then entered into the advisability of further explorations and surveys being carried out, and said if his Majesty thought fit to grant £3500 towards the Exploration Fund for their execution, Mr Colquhoun or I would be willing to carry them out without drawing pay from the fund, as our services had been volunteered and given gratuitously to the work. Copies of this memorandum were submitted through Mr Satow to the Foreign Office and the Government of India.

We found the king an intelligent-looking young man, about thirty years of age, erect and well built, with a handsome face for a Siamese, a slight moustache, and his hair cut and arranged, with its parting in the middle, in European fashion. Although understanding English, the king spoke in Siamese, Prince Devan acting as interpreter. Annoyed, perhaps, at Mr Colquhoun’s plain-speaking letters to the ‘Times,’ his Majesty addressed his remarks chiefly to me. After entering very fully into our projects, and following the lines pointed out on the map, he said that the matter required careful consideration, and he must consult with his Ministers before determining upon his action.

Shortly after the interview Prince Devan assured us that the king had expressed himself strongly in favour of the railways, and would probably give his decision in a few days, on his return from his country residence, which he was about to visit. He likewise said his Majesty wished us to inquire in London and Calcutta what terms would be likely to be required by English syndicates who might be willing to undertake the projected railways, so as to enable him to judge whether or not it would be expedient to grant the required concessions. Mr Colquhoun replied that he was obliged to return at once to China, but I would remain in Bangkok to await the decision, and if his Majesty desired it, would be willing to negotiate the matter with secrecy and without delay.

Next day Mr Colquhoun left with Mr Scott, after giving me the names of people from whom I might gain the required information, and I removed from the hotel to Mr Satow’s house. Having procured the intelligence by wire, I had another interview with the prince, and told him that the lowest terms mentioned had been a seven per cent guarantee, with free land for construction purposes, but that perhaps a smaller guarantee would be required if the king granted leave for the timber necessary for the undertaking to be extracted free of duty from the forests. He considered, or pretended to consider, the terms very high, and said that the Siamese Government could borrow money at an interest considerably less than the guarantee, and construct the railway itself, which he considered would be preferable, as the railways would then be theirs. I said I was not aware that Siamese credit stood higher than that of China, and that China had to pay about seven per cent for her recent loans.[30] He could, however, easily settle the question by telegraphing to their consul-general in London.

He then asked me whether I knew for certain that the Indian Government would be willing to carry out its part of the Burmo-Siamese connection, as it would be useless for the Siamese to construct their branch to the frontier if the Indian Government did not intend to meet and join the Siamese line. I replied that there could be no reasonable doubt on the subject. The Chambers of Commerce, who represent our manufacturing and mercantile communities, had for the last quarter of a century been constantly urging our Government to connect Burmah with China, and our projected connection _viâ_ Northern Siam was the only feasible one that could be made. The cost of the branch to the Indian Government would be but small, the benefits to be derived from it would be immense; it was therefore most improbable that a great commercial nation like England would let slip such an opportunity for increasing its trade. He might entirely remove that doubt from his mind; for if the Indian Government were to hesitate in the matter, our commercial classes, who formed the voting power of our nation, would insist upon its being carried out.

After remaining for some time in Bangkok visiting the sights of the place, which have been fully described by Carl Bock in his ‘Temples and Elephants,’ and by other travellers, I made an excursion with Mr Satow into Eastern Siam in a steamer belonging to Nai Sin. Nai Sin, in his stockings—all Siamese nobles wear stockings, and are as proud of them and as fastidious in their choice as our fashionable ladies are of their bonnets—stood a miniature swarthy Bacchus, some 5 feet 3 inches in height, and considerably more in circumference. Like Poo Bah in the “Mikado,” he held many dignified posts, was Deputy Lord Mayor, Town Magistrate, Commissioner of Rice Exports, and general go-between to the palace and to all distinguished foreigners visiting the capital. He bore the official title of Phya Thep Phaloo. His rank was denoted by 2500 marks, and he was proud of being a Siamo-Chinese and a near relation of George Washington, the late Chow Hona, or second King of Siam. When granted an audience with the king or with Prince Devan, Phya Thep Phaloo fetched you in his carriage, ushered you through the burlesquely clad guards, and acted as master of the ceremonies as far as the steps of the presence-chamber, and conducted you safely home again.

Surely one would imagine, until acquainted with the manners and customs of the place, that such a distinguished, trusted, and useful factotum would receive a salary for such multifarious duties a little above that of his theatrical representative, or at the very least above that of a parish beadle at home; but such was not the case. The Deputy Lord Mayor, Magistrate of the capital of Siam, High Chamberlain, Gold-Stick-in-Waiting, rejoiced in a pittance of 200 Siamese ticals a year, the equivalent of £20 in English money. Such pay for such appointments, of course, implied nearly unlimited patronage, pickings, and such “insults” as Poo Bah and Siamese officials cheerily pocket. I do not assert that Nai Sin profited by his many golden opportunities, but if he did not, and general rumour is to be believed, he forms nearly the single official exception in the realm of Siam.

Anyhow, Nai Sin looked the picture of a thriving and prosperous man, owned rice-mills and fields, houses and a steamer, wives, concubines, cattle and slaves, beamed with good-nature—or a very good semblance to it—was a capital companion, and gave me one of the pleasantest holidays I ever enjoyed in my life. By 5 A.M. we were on board the steamer, with our bedding, servants, and baggage, and in a few minutes were steaming slowly down the river in a thick mist which hid the beautiful orchards that skirt the river and delude the stranger as to the real size of the suburbs.

Two hours later we were passing Paknam and the pretty pagoda-decked islands in the river, and smiling at the trumpery fortifications that had been erected, under the supposition that they would tend to frighten a hostile fleet from endeavouring to enter the river. It is needless to say that one or two of our modern gunboats could not only silence these batteries in a few moments, but demolish the ludicrously armed and manned tin-pot vessels that his Majesty pleases to term his fleet.

Leaving the river, we quickly crossed the bar, and soon felt the unpleasant effects of a heavy swell, arising from a strong gale that had been blowing a few hours before. Passing junks partially dismasted, endeavouring to make headway with the remnant of their mat-sails which had been blown to tatters, and winding through fishing and mussel stakes driven into the bed of the sea, we were glad to enter the mouth of the Bang Pa Kong river and steam once more in quiet waters.

Journeying up the river, we passed several small villages, in which the space between the ground and the floor of the houses, some six or eight feet, was nearly filled with the shells of mussels, in which small pearls are frequently found, and reached the Kow Din, or “cut off” of the river, formed by a wood-cutter making a ditch for drawing his boat over the neck of a bend. The ditch rapidly widened, thus shortening the course of the river by several miles.

Nai Sin told me a story concerning this Kow Din. It appears that a few years ago, when the cut off was yet only 70 feet in breadth, a famous Buddhist monk arrived at the place. Finding his progress stopped by the ditch being too deep to wade across, and believing in the power of his merit, he faced his disconcerted disciples and addressed them thus: “Stay where you are, and I, by the power of my merit, will become a bridge for you to pass over. After crossing this stream, you can restore me to my natural shape by pouring consecrated water upon my head.” He then plunged into the river, and taking the form of a monstrous crocodile, stretched across from bank to bank. A mouse was never yet found to bell the cat. How could the infatuated monk expect such perfect faith in his disciples as to make them tread across such a horribly hideous bridge? Human nature had its way: no sooner was the miracle performed than the disciples, glancing at the huge reptile, as if by general consent fled homewards.

The Bang Pa Kong river is very serpentine in its course; so we did not reach Toon Chang, the village where Nai Sin had his mill, until three o’clock in the afternoon. The village was occupied by Chinese from Swatow—married to Siamese and Lao wives—and by pigs. The population of the various villages we passed on the river consisted chiefly of Cambodians, Cochin-Chinese, Lao, a few Siamese, and Chinamen. Chinamen in Siam seem to be ubiquitous. Half the population of the Meh Nam delta is Chinese, and very few of the people are without some trace of Chinese blood in them. The Chinese are neither serfs nor slaves, and can go as they will throughout the country. Mr Eaton, the able and painstaking American Baptist missionary in Bangkok, who attends to the Chinese section of the Mission, terms them the Americans of the East. They are the tax-gatherers, and, jointly with the king’s favourites, the monopolists of the taxes of the country. Nearly all the trade is in their hands. They are the shopkeepers, shoemakers, bricklayers, carpenters, tailors, gardeners, and fishermen of Siam; the owners and agents of some of the steamers; the coolies employed in the mills; they man the cargo-boats and unload the ships; and are considered by Europeans the best servants in the country. They are frugal in their habits, quick to learn, and utilise everything. According to M. Gaston Rautier, in an article in a recent number of the ‘Revue Française,’ the most recent estimate of the population of Siam puts it down at about 10,000,000, roughly composed of over 3,000,000 Siamese, 3,000,000 Chinese, 1,000,000 Malays, 1,000,000 Cambodians, 1,300,000 Lao, and about 400,000 Peguans, Karens, and other tribes. The Chinese, therefore, form about a third of the population of Siam, and are nearly as numerous as the Siamese.

Chinese immigrants not European subjects are considered by the Siamese to be under their jurisdiction, and are subjected to the laws of the realm. After three years’ residence, and at the close of every three years from that date, they have to pay a tax of 4¼ ticals, equivalent to 8s. 6d. They are exempted from _corvée_ labour, and all other Government requisitions, except the ordinary taxes. Their children have the option of submitting to the triennial tax, or of selecting a Government master and becoming Siamese. The grandchildren of Chinese immigrants are classed and registered as Siamese, and are liable to _corvée_ labour as soon as they measure 2½ sok, or 50 inches, to the shoulder, and are marked to one or other Government master. The mark is tattooed on the back of the right or left wrist, and all persons thus marked are liable to be called out in their master’s department.

The people and the Government are both imposed upon by the unscrupulous officials. Marked men die. The master avers that the man had not served for a number of years, and claims arrears of money, equivalent to the value of the labour he has omitted to do, from his wife and family. As certificates for times served are not given, no available proof can be brought to show the dishonesty of the master’s claim. Either the sum must be paid or a paper of indebtedness must be made out giving the master the power of selling the family, or as many of them as will cover the amount of the declared deficit.

Another mode of making money out of the people is as follows: On receiving an order for the services of a certain number of men, the master calls many more than are required, and says he has to choose so many from them. They all naturally want to beg off: those who offer the smallest bribe have to serve. If instead of men being requisitioned, the order is for posts, or other materials, oppression comes similarly into play. Some years ago the king requisitioned ten posts from the minister of certain provinces, the minister ordered twenty from the governor, who ordered forty from the Samien, who ordered eighty from the masters of the _prai-luangs_, who made the _prai-luangs_ cut a hundred and sixty, on the plea that some of them would be hollow or otherwise imperfect.

Nai Sin’s mill is marked on the charts as the English mill, having been built and owned for many years by an English firm who employed him as their manager, until in time he became a partner, and ultimately owner of the mill. The Blue Mountains, to the south of the entrance of the river, had now faded into space, and the country had the appearance of a dead level. To the west the plain extends for more than 100 miles to the foot of the spurs of the Tenasserim range. To the east it reaches some 250 miles, with hardly a perceptible water-parting, then turning to the south-east embraces the Tali Sap, or great Lake of Cambodia. To the north and north-east it stretches 50 miles or more to the foot of the Dong Phya Phai, or forest of the Fire King, the fever-infested hills to the south of the Korat plateau. On the south it is bounded by the sea and by the Blue Mountains, which contain the celebrated sapphire-mines.

As we passed up the river we found the land on both banks cultivated as gardens, sugar-cane plantations, and rice-fields; and from the many straggling villages along the course of the rivers and canals, one would conclude that the country was thickly populated—but this is not the case. Agriculture ceases a short distance from the banks, and not more than one-twentieth of this vast and rich plain is under cultivation.

The scenery in Indo-China is indeed exquisitely beautiful: the streams wind continuously through ever-changing foliage; with here and there a house, pagoda, or temple peeping out from the trees; children playing on the banks; people going to and coming from market in their little dug-outs, the boats of the poor. Here and there a yellow-robed monk, paddled along by the pupils of his school, on his morning mission to collect from the religiously disposed the daily food for his monastery. Men, women, and children, seemingly fearless of the numerous crocodiles which infest the river, swimming about, laughing, screaming, joking, and splashing each other. A hop-o’-my-thumb astride of a huge buffalo, until the brute gets rid of him by rolling in the water. Here a gang of men and women fishing with baskets or with fling-nets. The whole scene teems with life, and the people seem gay notwithstanding the life they are born to. We continued up the river as far as the tramway leading to the deserted goldmines, near where the telegraph line crosses the stream, and then returned to Bangkok.

On our arrival I found Dr M‘Gilvary had written to the local newspaper strongly advocating the construction of the Siamese main line and its connection with Burmah. He gave his opinion in these words: “Considering its prospective influence on the civilisation and development of the whole of South-eastern Asia, and its probable, if not certain, extension to China, I verily believe it may be classed with the Suez Canal and the great American Pacific Railway as one of the grand works of the century.”

I trust that the Governments concerned in the construction of the Burmah-Siam-China Railway may come to the same conclusion, and that this great work, so important for the extension of British trade and for the civilisation of South-eastern Asia, may soon be carried into execution.

APPENDIX.

BURMAH-SIAM-CHINA RAILWAY. RESOLUTIONS OF CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE.

LONDON.—On November 29, 1885, the following resolution was carried with acclamation: “That this meeting of the members of the London Chamber of Commerce and others interested in British trade with the East, having heard Mr Archibald R. Colquhoun’s address, hereby accords its thanks to Mr Colquhoun and to Mr Holt S. Hallett for the valuable services rendered to commerce by them, with exceptional zeal and ability, in studying and reporting upon the new markets of Indo-China and China, and the best means of opening them; and further, that the attention of her Majesty’s Government be directed to the great importance of these Eastern markets, and of the services of Mr Colquhoun and Mr Hallett.”

MANCHESTER.—At the quarterly meeting of the Chamber, the President stated that the question of the projected railway from Burmah to Western China was one of the most important that had come before the Chamber for some years past. He thought that it might very well come before the Royal Commission on Trade Depression, who should insist, as far as they could, that our trade with Burmah and Western China should receive at all events the attention of the Indian Government. Before leaving this subject he thought he might make allusion to the services rendered gratuitously to British commerce by Mr Colquhoun and Mr Holt Hallett, and to the fact that no recognition of their work had been made by the Government. It seemed to him that it would not be improper for the Chamber to call the attention of the Government to the services which both gentlemen had rendered in the direction of promoting the interests of English commerce.

LEITH.—On the 9th of December 1885, after careful consideration of the whole of the published facts about the Burmah-Siam-China Railway, the following resolution was passed: “The Leith Chamber of Commerce, after carefully considering the communications received from Mr A. R. Colquhoun, desires to record its sense of the value of the services rendered by him and by Mr Holt S. Hallett to commerce in the far East, and resolves to press upon the attention of the Government the importance of opening railway communication between Burmah, Siam, and Southern China in the interests of British commerce.”

TYNEMOUTH.—On the 11th of December 1885, the following resolution was unanimously adopted: “That this Chamber accord their thanks to Mr A. R. Colquhoun and Mr Holt Hallett for their valuable services rendered to British commerce by their zeal and ability in studying and reporting on the new markets of Indo-China and China, and the best means of opening them by railway communication; and that her Majesty’s Government be requested to give substantial recognition for their services.”

SOUTH OF SCOTLAND.—On the 5th January 1886, the Chamber wrote to the Secretary of State for India representing that, “Having had under their consideration certain communications relative to the establishment of railway communication between Burmah and Siam and in Western China, they are of opinion that such undertakings are of vast importance to the development of British commerce in those countries, and deserve the careful attention of her Majesty’s Government. They trust that the numerous communications made to your lordship upon this subject will receive early and due consideration, and in this connection I am also desired to express the sense the Chamber entertain of the value of the gratuitous services rendered in the cause of British commerce by Mr Colquhoun and Mr Holt Hallett, and their hope that such services will not fail to be recognised by her Majesty’s Government.”

LONDON.—At a meeting of the London Chamber of Commerce, held on the 14th January 1886, a resolution was passed requesting the Government to recognise the services to the trade of the kingdom by the explorations of Mr A. R. Colquhoun and Mr Holt S. Hallett in connection with the railway from Burmah to the south-west frontier of China.

OLDHAM.—At the annual meeting held on the 25th January 1886, it was resolved: “That in the opinion of this Chamber the opening out of new markets for British manufactures is of pressing importance at the present time, and that her Majesty’s Government, in view of recent events in Upper Burmah, be memorialised in favour of the construction of a Burmah-Siam-China Railway as proposed by Messrs A. R. Colquhoun and Holt S. Hallett, or by any route which may be deemed more eligible.”... “That this Chamber calls the attention of the Government to the services which Messrs Colquhoun and Hallett have rendered in the direction of promoting the interests of English commerce.”

MANCHESTER.—At the annual meeting, held on the 1st February 1886, Mr J. L. Hutton, M.P., the chairman, called attention to the development of new markets with Western China through Burmah, and asked the Chamber to support the action of the Board in urging the Government to recognise officially the services which had been rendered in this respect by Mr Hallett and Mr Colquhoun.

MANCHESTER.—Extract from Annual Report for 1885: “If ever railway enterprise in those regions be developed—as suggested by Mr Colquhoun and Mr Hallett, and as this Chamber earnestly hopes—the traders of Lancashire at least will owe a deep debt of gratitude to those pioneers of commerce who have devoted their services voluntarily for the benefit of the country, for which, however, they have not yet received any official or honorary recognition.”

LONDON.—Extract from Annual Report for 1885: “Both the commercial community and British reputation for progress are indebted to Messrs Colquhoun and Hallett for their unremunerated services to their country in pursuing these investigations. It is to be hoped that her Majesty’s Government will duly recognise and reward their services, as an encouragement to both present and future commercial pioneers.”

ASSOCIATION OF CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE.—At the annual meeting, held on the 23d and 25th February 1886, it was resolved: “That this Association strongly emphasises the importance of opening railway communication from the ports of British Burmah, _viâ_ the Shan States and Siam, to the south-western frontier of China, and requests the Executive Council to urge, by deputation or otherwise, her Majesty’s Government and the Government of India to give every possible facility and assistance in promoting such communication.”

CARDIFF.—On the 18th November 1885, the following resolution was unanimously passed: “That this Chamber desires to support any well-considered scheme for the promotion of railways for the connection of Burmah with Siam and China, and that the secretary is hereby instructed to place this resolution before the Council of the Association of Chambers of Commerce.”

HONG KONG, 1886.—To the Secretary of State for the Colonies. Resolved: “That this Chamber bring to the notice of the Secretary of State for the Colonies, the importance attaching to the explorations of Messieurs Holt S. Hallett and A. R. Colquhoun, in Burmah and the Indo-China States, and express a hope that the Government will support the construction of a railway as recommended by these gentlemen, with a view to opening up communication with Western China, which would prove of great commercial value to both countries.”

MANCHESTER.—The following resolution was unanimously passed on September 30, 1885: “That, in thanking Mr Colquhoun for the important communications addressed by him to this Chamber, the president be authorised to express the regret of the directors that Mr Colquhoun was prevented fulfilling his engagement to address the Chamber on September 16. The directors also desire to express their recognition of the valuable services rendered to British commerce by the earnest zeal with which the importance of opening up communication with Western China and Eastern markets has been advocated by Mr Colquhoun and Mr Holt Hallett.”

GLASGOW.—The president, at the request of the directors, informed her Majesty’s Secretary of State for India that—“After careful consideration of a project submitted to the Chamber by Messrs A. R. Colquhoun and Holt Hallett, after explorations personally conducted by them in Burmah, Siam, and the Shan States, and for which thanks are eminently due, the directors of the Chamber have unanimously resolved to represent to her Majesty’s Government the Chamber’s sense of the general importance of establishing railway communications in British Burmah and Siam, as a means of opening up new markets for British commerce in those countries, and by probable ultimate extension in China likewise; and consequently also respectfully to urge on her Majesty’s Government to encourage and assist the promotion of such a system of railways in British Burmah as may be best fitted to tend to the development of British commerce in the countries above referred to.”

WORCESTER.—The Worcester Chamber of Commerce has written to the Secretary of State for India urging upon her Majesty’s Government the importance of considering the present opportunity for opening up to our commerce the markets of China and Indo-China, and the construction, either by guarantee or directly, of a branch line of railway to the Siamese frontier.

LIVERPOOL.—In reply to the questions put by the Royal Commission on the Depression of Trade, the East India and China Trade Committee of the Liverpool Chamber of Commerce has recommended “that the surplus revenue of British Burmah should be employed in public works and for the benefit of the country, and not be remitted, as at present, to Calcutta.”

LEEDS.—The following resolution has been unanimously passed and been forwarded to the Secretary of State for India: “That in the opinion of this Chamber it is highly desirable that a system of railways should be carried out as soon as possible connecting India and China, as indicated by Mr Colquhoun.”

THE BLEACHERS’ ASSOCIATION.—The following was amongst the recommendations to the Royal Commission on Depression of Trade: “We can only suggest that your Chamber calls the attention of the Commission to the opening out of new markets, particularly that of Southern China, as advocated by Mr Archibald Colquhoun, where we have every reason to think that a large market exists for piece-goods of all descriptions.”

NORTH STAFFORDSHIRE.—Among the answers compiled by the North Staffordshire Chamber of Commerce to the questions issued by the Royal Commission on Depression of Trade is the following: Asked their opinion as to what measures could be adapted to improve the existing condition of trade, the committee reply: “By freeing the canals from the control and from the monopoly of railway companies; by developing the resources of India; by a close commercial alliance with our colonies; by opening out new markets, particularly that of South-western China, as advocated by Mr Archibald Colquhoun in his paper lately read before the London Chamber of Commerce; and by a check, if possible, to the further depreciation of silver.”

HUDDERSFIELD.—In December 1885, the Huddersfield Chamber of Commerce had framed a series of answers to the questions sent out by the Depression of Trade Commission, and in reply to the question as to the remedy for the depression, the Chamber says it seems most desirable to encourage the opening of new markets and to afford every legitimate facility for trade in the markets already opened, and adds that the report recently made by Mr Archibald Colquhoun in reference to the possibilities of China and similar nations, deserves most careful attention.

CALCUTTA.—Bengal Chamber of Commerce, on 24th January 1886, again had under consideration the subject of the trade with Western China. The Chamber, while not pledging itself to Mr Colquhoun’s or any other particular route, has urged that something should be done immediately to open up that trade, and has also expressed its sense of the great services rendered by Mr Colquhoun and Mr Hallett.

BRISTOL.—January 1886: “That this Chamber is of opinion, and considers it important, that a system of railway should as soon as possible be carried out connecting India and China, as advocated by Mr A. R. Colquhoun.”

HULL.—On 24th February 1886, resolution introduced at the Associated Chambers’ Annual Meeting: “That, having regard to the great importance to British commerce of establishing communication with China through Burmese territory, this Association urge by memorial or deputation to her Majesty’s Government the necessity of doing all in their power to secure this advantage.”

DUNDEE.—Abstract of Report by Directors of Dundee Chamber, 31st March 1886. Resolved: “The directors, considering the importance of connecting Burmah with India and China by means of railways, and seeing that Upper Burmah has now been annexed, are of opinion that her Majesty’s Government should encourage the construction of such a system of railways as may best develop the resources of those countries, and thus give additional outlets and new markets to British commerce.”

RANGOON.—On 11th June 1886, at a general meeting of the Rangoon Chamber, attention was drawn to the valuable services rendered by Messrs Colquhoun and Hallett in directing public attention in Europe to the capabilities of Burmah and the adjacent countries as markets for English goods, and in pointing out the best means for extending British trade in Indo-China.

“The Rangoon Chamber has not as yet sent any formal acknowledgement of its sense of the importance of the services thus rendered, but now conveys the thanks of the Chamber for the work done, and expresses the hope that the Indian Government will see its way to granting to Messrs Colquhoun and Hallett some fitting recompense for an important public service thus voluntarily rendered.”

IPSWICH.—In February 1887, resolved: “That the suggestions for the extension of railway communication in India, and especially Burmah, are worthy of the strongest support from Chambers of Commerce, as offering a probability of an extension of trade from and to this country.”

LIVERPOOL.—East India and China trade section. On 23d March 1887, resolved: “That this committee is of opinion that the extension of railways in India and Burmah is very desirable in the interests of commerce, and the committee hopes that the Government of India will continue to give its best attention to the subject.” Adopted by the Chamber.

BIRMINGHAM.—On the 26th May 1887, resolved: “That this meeting of the Birmingham Chamber and the mercantile community of the town considers that the connection by railway of India and China is of the greatest possible importance to the extension of British trade, and that Upper Burmah and the Burmese Shan States having been acquired by England, as the railway proposed by Messrs Colquhoun and Hallett would run entirely through British and Siamese territory, the Government should take the matter into their serious consideration with a view to the construction of the same without further delay. That this Chamber tenders its best thanks to Messrs Colquhoun and Hallett for the services they have rendered to this country in bringing this matter so forcibly before the attention of the commercial community, and urges the Government to adopt their suggestions and to make suitable recognition of their services.”

LONDON.—On the 7th of November 1887, it was resolved that: “This meeting of members of the London Chamber of Commerce and others specially interested in Eastern trade, having heard Mr Colquhoun’s final report on the prospects of railway communication between Burmah and South-west China, and considering that the economic value of Burmah would be greatly enhanced if approved lines of railway could be established, resolves, that her Majesty’s Government be approached with a view to their urging upon the Government of India the great desirability of conceding a guarantee to any responsible private enterprise which may be prepared to undertake the construction of the approved lines; and further, that this meeting desires to express its sense of the high value of the reports of Mr A. R. Colquhoun and Mr Holt Hallett, which have placed the project in such a practical shape before the commercial community.”

MANCHESTER.—The Manchester Geographical Society, on November 8, 1887, adopted the following resolution: “That the members of the Manchester Geographical Society tender their best thanks to Mr Colquhoun for his able address, and for the services rendered by him, and by his friend and colleague Mr Holt Hallett, in so constantly and forcibly attracting the attention of the mercantile community to the great importance of connecting British Burmah with Western China by railway. In the interests of British commerce this Society would urge her Majesty’s Government to take this matter into serious consideration, with a view to the construction, without further delay, of the best and shortest route of railway.”

LEEDS.—On November 9, 1887, the Leeds Incorporated Chamber of Commerce passed the following resolution: “That this meeting of the members of the Leeds Incorporated Chamber of Commerce, and others interested in the Eastern trade, having heard Mr Colquhoun’s report on the projected railway connection between Burmah and South-western China, is of opinion that it is highly desirable, in the interests both of the Burmese and of British commerce, that the connection should be made, and would respectfully urge upon her Majesty’s Government the advisability of conceding a guarantee to responsible private enterprises for securing a railway connection between those countries.”

GLASGOW.—On November 11, 1887, the Glasgow Chamber of Commerce passed the following resolution: “That the cordial thanks of the meeting be given to Mr Colquhoun for the important and instructive address he has just delivered, accompanied with an expression of the hope that a direct railway route may soon be opened up from Burmah to the frontiers of South-western China, and of the opinion that her Majesty’s Government should be approached with a view to urging upon the Government of India the great desirability of conceding a guarantee to any responsible private enterprise which may be prepared to undertake the construction of approved lines.”

OLDHAM.—On the 14th November 1887, the Oldham Incorporated Chamber of Commerce passed the following resolution: “That this Chamber again expresses its belief in the urgent necessity for opening up railway communication between British Burmah and South-west China.”

DEWSBURY.—On the 20th December 1887, it was resolved, that “The members of the Dewsbury Chamber of Commerce tender their best thanks to Mr Holt Hallett for his able address, and for the services rendered by him and by Mr Colquhoun in so constantly and forcibly attracting the attention of the mercantile community to the vast importance of connecting the British Burmese port of Moulmein with Siam, the Shan States, and China by railway; and that in the interests of British commerce this Chamber urges her Majesty’s Government to take this matter into serious consideration, with a view to their carrying out this railway without further delay.”

HALIFAX.—At the annual meeting of the Halifax Chamber of Commerce, held on January 18, 1888, the following resolution was passed: “That this meeting desires to place on record the appreciation of the members of the Chamber at the zeal and energy displayed by Mr A. R. Colquhoun and Mr Holt Hallett in not only considering but in reporting upon and surveying trade-routes between Burmah, Siam, and Western China. It would further urge upon Government the necessity of taking steps to bring into direct railway communication the vast and important interests existing in the South-western provinces of China and our Burmah possessions; and would further draw the attention of the Government to the services which Messrs Colquhoun and Hallett have rendered to the interests of British commerce in the East.”

NEWCASTLE AND GATESHEAD.—The annual meeting of the Newcastle and Gateshead Chamber of Commerce was held yesterday, 27th January 1888, in the Guildhall, Sir C. M. Palmer, Bart., M.P., President, in the chair. There was a large attendance. Mr W. S. Daglish moved the following resolution: “That the best thanks of the members of this Chamber are due, and are hereby given, to Mr A. R. Colquhoun and Mr Holt S. Hallett for their able and exhaustive efforts to bring before the commercial community of this country the value of Burmah, Siam, and South-west India as new markets, and the best means of opening out the same; and this Chamber of Commerce would urge on the Government the advisability of making every effort to promote railway communications with and through these countries.” Mr T. Omerod seconded the resolution, which was carried unanimously.

BLACKBURN AND DISTRICT.—At a meeting of the Blackburn and District Chamber of Commerce on February 8, 1888, the following resolution was unanimously passed: “That this meeting of the Blackburn and District Chamber of Commerce begs to express its high appreciation of the pioneer work of Mr Holt Hallett and Mr Colquhoun with regard to the railway communication between British Burmah and South-western China, and takes this opportunity to impress upon her Majesty’s Government the importance of at once taking measures for the construction of a good practicable railway to connect those important markets with our Indian possessions.”

ASSOCIATION OF CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE.—Resolution passed at annual meeting, 21st February 1888: “That this Association requests the executive council to communicate with the Prime Minister and the Secretary of State for India, urging upon them—Firstly, To advise the Government of India to order an immediate survey of the railway routes to South-west China from Burmah, in order that railway communication may be opened without unnecessary delay.”

MANCHESTER.—At the ordinary monthly meeting of the Manchester Chamber of Commerce on April 24, 1889: “With reference to the address recently delivered by Mr Holt Hallett to a joint meeting of this Chamber, the United Cotton Spinners’ Association, and the Manchester Geographical Society, it was arranged that a resolution in favour of more vigorous prosecution of railway enterprise in India should be submitted to the quarterly meeting of the Chamber to be held on Monday next.”

LORD SALISBURY ON THE CONNECTION OF BURMAH WITH CHINA BY RAILWAY.—The following letter from Lord Salisbury has been received by the secretaries of the Lancashire and Cheshire Conservative Working Men’s Federation (Mr S. C. Nicholson and Mr F. W. Deacon), in reply to a resolution passed by the Executive Committee of the Federation after hearing Mr Holt S. Hallett’s recent address, which resolution supported Mr Hallett’s views, and urged the Government to encourage by every means in their power the extension of the railway system in India and Burmah with a view to opening out South-western China to British trade:—

“HATFIELD HOUSE, HATFIELD, _April 20, 1889_.

“SIRS,—I am desired by the Marquis of Salisbury to acknowledge your letter of the 13th instant. I am to say in reply that the Government would be very glad to see Burmah and South-western China united by railway, and fully believe that if such a measure could be carried into effect it would have the beneficial consequences which you indicate, especially to the industries of Lancashire and Cheshire. It is probable that when the existing Burmese railway is taken up to Bhamo it will receive a further extension up to the frontier, but no decision to this effect has yet been taken, as the possibility of such an undertaking must depend upon the conditions of the regions through which such a railway would pass. They have in past times been very disturbed, and the efforts to obtain a partial survey of the country, which have been made more than once by the Indian Government, have been frustrated by the uncivilised and turbulent character of the people.

—I am, your obedient servant, R. T. GUNTON.”

INDEX.

Aborigines, the, 21.

Accadian literature of Chaldea, 52.

Acolytes, rules for the, 303.

Adepts at intrigue, 445.

Adultery, punishment for, 301.

Alabaster, Mr, on slavery in Bangkok, 447.

American Presbyterian Missions in Siam and Zimmé, 93.

Ancestral and demon worship, 82, 151.

Ancestral spirits, consulting, 106.

Aneroid, accident to, 226.

Ang Sa Lome, 324.

Anglo-Siamese Treaty of 1874, 116.

‘Annamese Chronicles,’ a source of history, ix.

Archer, Mr, British Consul at Zimmé, on the extent of the trade converging at Kiang Hai, 209 _et seq._ —his report on Muang Fang, 351.

Assassinating a lover, 118.

Auckland, Lord, Governor-General of India, viii.

Augury of fowl-bones, the, 347.

Ayuthia, former capital of Siam, 412.

Baber’s, Mr Colborne, survey of the Bhamo route, 427.

Ban Bung Kay-ow, 440.

Bangkok, arrangements for boat-journey to, 390.

Bang Pa Kong river, 459.

Ban Hsope Kyem, 72.

Ban Hsope Long, 90.

Ban Hta, 108.

Ban Huay Hee-o, 310.

Ban Huay Ngoo, 368.

Banian-tree, a large, 362.

Ban Kau, 395.

Ban Mai, 225, 310.

Ban Meh Chai, 224.

Ban Meh Chan, 184.

Ban Meh Chun, 403.

Ban Meh Hang, visit to, 357.

Ban Meh Kap village, 331.

Ban Meh Kaun, 335, 337.

Ban Meh Kee, 184.

Ban Meh Kih, 345, 360.

Ban Meh Lim, 334.

Ban Meh Meh, 332.

Ban Meh Mon, 345.

Ban Meh Pik, 402.

Ban Meh Sai, rice-plain of, 247.

Ban Meh Set, 370.

Ban Meh Soi, 73.

Ban Meh Soon, 345.

Ban Meh Ta, 288.

Ban Meut Kha, 394.

Ban Nang En, 392.

Ban Nong Long, 74.

Ban Nyang village, 392.

Ban Pa Sak, 136, 187.

Ban Pah Yang Neur, 403.

Ban Pang Kai, 307.

Ban Perng, 369.

Ban Poo-ken, 220.

Ban Soop Tau, 400.

Ban Ta Doo-a, 402.

Ban Ta Doo-er, 393.

Ban Ta Ngoo, 441.

Ban Ta Pee, 78.

Ban Wung Pone, 439.

Ban Yang Tone village, 218.

Bargaining with an abbot, 300.

Barrier to boat traffic, 399.

Bathing images, 261.

Bau-gyee, 54.

Bau Koke, 54.

Bau plateau, natives of the, 47, 59.

Bau Sa Lee, 48.

Bau Sa-lee-am, 395.

Bed-bugs, abundance of, 278.

Bed without dinner, 362.

Begging for meals, 302.

Bentinck, Lord William, orders a mission to the Shan States, viii.

Bernard, Sir Charles, chief commissioner of Burmah, 419 —his opinion on the railway question, 422.

Betel-chewing, 371.

Bible translated into Shan, 312.

Bigits, Prince, expected visit of, 283 —visit to, 373 —conversation with, on the railway project, 381.

Birds and monkeys dying of grief, 173.

Blossoms, spring, 220.

Boat-hire on the Meh Nam, 65, 68.

Boat-journeys from and to Bangkok, 413.

Bock, Carl, on the mineral wealth of Lakon, 281.

Bo Toung hill, 14.

Books, palm-leaf, 301.

Bowring, Sir John, on the population of the Shan States, 383.

Boxing and wrestling, 385.

Boxing with regular gloves, 217.

Bribery and extortion at frontier guard-house, 295.

Brick and tile works, 89.

Bridge disaster, 386.

Bridging the Salween, 14.

Britons, ancient, and Shans compared, 200.

Bronze images of Gaudama, 193.

Brothels in Bangkok, 452.

Bryce, Mr, manager of the Bombay Trading Company, 5, 10, 24, 39 _et seq._

Buddha, footprints of, 70 —a crowned, 166 —a, forty-five feet high, 228.

Buddhist legend, 254.

Buffaloes, light-coloured, 90.

Bugs in Karen houses, 10.

Bureng Naung, the Burmese Emperor, 49.

Burial customs, 175.

Burmah-China railway, prospects for a, 171.

Burmese Christians, 15.

Burmese Shans, 145.

Burmese Shans, invasion of, 335.

Burning the dead, 49.

Butterflies, abundance of, 181, 251.

Butterfly in man, Burmese psychology of the, 181.

Cabalistic charms, 81.

Camp-dinners and cookery, 128.

Canal irrigation, 127.

Caravan traffic through Zimmé, 104.

Carriage from China, cost of, 170.

Cartographer of the R.G.S. on Mr Holt Hallett’s survey, 293.

Cattle, black, export of, 30 —with nose-bags and masks, 146.

Cattle-breeding among the Khas, 22.

Cattle-disease spreading, 359.

Cattle with nose-bags and masks, 146.

Caverns, flat-arched, 394.

Cham race of Malay stock, x.

Chambers of Commerce on the Burmah-Siam-China Railway, 464 _et seq._

Charms let in the flesh, 138.

Chaum Taung, 226.

Chedi Lee-am, large monastery at, 91.

Cheek, Dr, 98 _et seq._

Chetties, or Native of India bankers, 29.

Chinese chop-sticks, 85.

Chinese fortifications, 142.

Chinese in Siam, 461.

Chinese pack-saddles for mules, 212.

Chinese settlers from Ssuchuan, Kweichau, and Yunnan, 196.

Chow Oo Boon, Princess, lends elephants to exploring party, 313.

Chow Oo-Boon, the spirit-medium and historian of the royal family, 49 —instances of her power, 105.

Christianity a great boon, 325.

Cicadas and their music, 284.

Cities, ancient, 199 —deserted, 223.

Clarke, Sir Andrew, and the Siamese system of railways, 425.

Cliffs a mile high, 397.

Clothing worn by females, 52.

Colquhoun, Mr, author of work on Siam, 48 —expected meeting with, 381 —arrival, 454.

Commissariat arrangements, 5.

Communication cheap, necessity for, 415.

Confessions in Siamese police courts, 449.

Confucius and Buddha, 182.

Consulate, visit to the, at Bangkok, 445.

Copper found in Lakon, 281 —mine of, at Muang Kut, 291.

Courageous lady, a, 60.

Courtship, marriage, and divorce among the Shans, 128.

Creation of man, Buddhist legends of the, 182.

Criminal sentenced to slavery, descendants of, 302.

Crown commoners, 132.

Curiosities, bargaining for, 300.

Cushing, Dr, 1 _et seq._, 31, 127 —has smallpox, 286 —house for, built in two days, 294 —on the present condition of the Shans, 387.

Customs of the Zimmé ladies, 99.

Cutch, preparations of, 370.

Dacoiting boats, 406.

Dagger, bargaining for a, 353.

Daguinseik, a Siamese frontier post, 33.

Dale, a beautiful, 286.

Damming streams for fisheries, 224.

Dana Toung range of hills, 10.

Dances of the Karens, 37.

Dang Whung Chow, 437.

Dead forest, 251.

Decoration of temples and monasteries, 92.

Deer-lick, a, 362.

Deer startled, 344.

Demoniac, a, 112.

Demons, residence for, 141.

Deserted cities of Manola, the, 186.

Devan, Prince, on the proposed railway, 455 _et seq._

Dianas, youthful, in Zimmé, 99.

Dinner served in European style, 125.

Disease, theory of, the Siamese, 273.

Distilling pots, huge iron, 209.

Divorce, payments for, 174.

Doctor, a Siamese, 272 —payment of, by the job, 275 —adds to his income by acting as a priest to the demons, 276.

Dog offered to demons, 3.

Dong Phya Phai, 462.

Drainage of district flowing in three directions, 341.

Dredges, hand, 435.

Drinking habits of the Khas, 22.

Droves of pigs and laden cattle, meet, 45.

Duplicate kings of Siam, 285.

Dutch expelled from Burmah, vii.

Dwarf races of Indo-China, 21.

Dyes, use of, 87.

Eastern Siam, excursion to, 458.

Eclipse seen at Muang Ngow, 254.

Eels, eating white, 187.

Elephants, motion of, 11 —crossing steep hills, 25 —hiring, 33, 40 —cruel drivers of, 45 —without tusks, 177 —elephant-driving, 178 —danger when driver is careless, 179 —as tool-users, _ib._ —man killed by a wild elephant, 214 —buying an elephant, 216 —playing truant, 285 —training, 316 —a vicious one, 326 —attacked by a vicious, 359.

Embroideries, Shan, excellence of, 392.

Embroidery sent to Burmah, 87.

“Emerald Buddh,” the celebrated, 167.

Enhancement of prices, 296.

Entangling demons, 331.

Ethnology of Burmah and Siam, x. _et seq._

European goods at Kiang Tung, 213.

Evil spirits, scaring, 259.

Execution, modes of, 32.

Exorcist, an, 107.

Expectant Buddhas, implements for the use of, 322.

Exploration, proposals for further, 454.

Exploring party, number of the, 127.

Exports from Lakon to Bangkok, 280.

Faith-healing, 183.

Fang Min, 76.

Fever, malarious, Mr Webster on, 279.

Fighting crickets, fish, and cocks, 237.

Filthy dwellings, 277.

Fisheries, river, 224.

Fisherwomen, panic-stricken, 360.

Fishing by women, 87 —for a livelihood, 164 —by moonlight, 176.

Fishing, implements used in, 169.

Flies, bloodthirsty, 179 —a plague of, 311.

Flood of 1877, the great, 3.

Floods, extraordinary, in Siam, 411.

Foot-and-mouth disease, 327.

Footprints of Gaudama, 70, 165.

Foreign competition for trade, 414 —marriages, 131.

Forest-clad plain, 78 —a magnificent, 180.

Foresters, visit to Burmese, 123.

Fortifications of the Shans, 199.

French influence in Siam, 421.

Frenchified monk, 443.

Fresco-paintings of hell punishments, 299.

Frontier dues, 163 —trouble on the, 407.

Fugitives put in chains, 355.

Fumigation and disinfection, 294.

Funeral buildings, royal, 248.

Furniture, Shan, 83.

Gadflies, 208.

Gambling and opium dens, no, in Viang Pow, 366.

Gambling currency, 234.

Gambling games in Siam, 235 —monopoly of, in Siam, 238.

Gambling-house jails, 243.

Game, large, abundance of, 345 —an unsuccessful hunt for, 354.

Garments, homespun, 87.

Garnier’s journey, 426.

Gaudama sacrificed to, as the goddess of mercy, 51 —formerly Indra, 228, 406 —footprints of, 320.

Geological formations, peculiar, 396.

Ghoul spirit, the, 83.

Gibbons, wailing of, 43 —agility of, 208 —the cry of, 307.

Giving, a privilege, 302.

Glutinous rice, 13.

God of medicine, the, 272 —fee to, 275.

Goddess of mercy, the, 51.

Gods, waking the, with water, 264.

Gold and silver carried while travelling, 2.

Gold, indications of, 147 —in the Kiang Tung Lawa country, 175.

Gold-mines, tramway to the, 463.

Goteik defile, 431.

Gould, Mr, British Vice-Consul to the Zimmé Shan States, 283, 314 _et seq._

Government masters, unscrupulous, 461.

Government masters in Siam, 131.

Government monopolies, Siamese, 244.

Governor in league with dacoits, 406.

Guardian spirits of districts, 325.

Hair-cutting in Siam, 345.

Hairy-faced men, 443.

Hang Sat, 285.

Head-dressing of Zimmé Shans, 138.

Headless spirits, 111.

Hermaphroditism, 99.

Hills, precipitous, 335.

Hlineboay village, 4 —its market, _ib._ —river, 3, 11.

Hong, Chinese, a, 87.

Hong Htan, 285.

Horse-hair lace, 213.

Hot springs, 24.

House-building, rules for, 82.

Houses in the Shan villages, 80.

Hsong Keveh, 78.

Htong Htan, 87.

Huay Bau Kyow, 61, 266.

Huay Kao, 120.

Huay Kay-Yow, 394.

Huay Kok Moo, 223.

Huay Kyoo Lie, 256.

Huay Ma Koh hills covered with teak, 26.

Huh Sai, 329, 337 —valley of the, 54.

Human sacrifices, 49.

Hysteria and evil spirits, 111.

Idols, fallen, 355.

Image of Buddha destroyed by missionaries, 109.

Images, manufacture of, 67; purloining of, 351.

Immorality of princes, 452.

India and China as markets for British manufactures, 415.

Indra’s heaven, 70.

Inquisitive people, 338.

Inscriptions on foundation-stones, 385.

Insignia of office, a chief’s, 162.

Iron-mine guarded by demons, 54 —near Kiang Hsen, 196 —in Lakon, 281.

Japanese books, library of, 446.

Joke about Phra Chedi Sow, 271.

Judge, a Christian, 268.

Jungle demons, 397.

Jungle-fire, 184.

Kamait, catching a, 336.

Kamait language, the, 336.

Kamaits, the, 21.

Kamook lumber-men, 400.

Kamooks, the, 21.

Kamphang Pet, 412, 437.

Kanyin, or oil-tree, 248.

Karen interpreter and guide, 6.

Karen tribes, xiii.

Karen villages, 36 —Christians, 279.

Karen Yain, 36.

Karroway Toung or Parrot’s Hill, 21, 47 —pass, 23.

Ka-wat or pagoda slaves, 122.

Khas, the, 21.

Kiang Dow, 75 —province of, 330 —description of the city of, 334.

Kiang Hai plain, 126, 149, 153 —villages near, 173.

Kiang Hsen, 75 —arrival of expedition at, 189 —extent of city, 195 —destruction of, in 1804, 201 —repopulation of, 202.

Kiang Hsen plain, 184, 402.

Kiang Hung, 427.

Kiang Hung Shans Burmese subjects, 151.

Kiang Ngai, 338.

Kiang Tung Lawas, a Jung tribe, 144.

Kiang Yuen, 120.

King, petitioning the, regarding misgovernment, 408 —missionary’s opinion of, 410.

Kissing with the nose, 83.

Koo Saik Choung river, 17.

Korat plateau, 462.

Kow Sau Kyow, 402.

Krong Suen Ma, 438.

Kun Lôn ferry, 431 _et seq._

Kweh Chow village, 88.

Kyoo Pow, 207.

Kyouk Toung hills, 11.

Labour, cheap, for the railway, 281.

Labour-supply of Muang Fang, 352.

Lace prized, 387.

La-hu people, general characteristics of the, 160 —their vocabulary, 161.

La-hu women, dress of the, 159.

Lake-basins, ancient, 145, 329.

Lakon, description of the State of, 267 —law and justice in, 269 —trade of, 280.

Land-tax or rent, 135.

Land yielding 250-fold, 350.

Lanma-Gyee Garté police station, 12.

Lao marriage, 355.

Lao provinces of Siam, 321.

Laos tribe, 21.

Lapoon, 12 —immigrants to, 216 —reach, 289 —description of, 291 —visit the chief of, _ib_.

‘Lapoon Chronicle,’ 33.

Lascivious spirits, 398.

Lāun Ten, 191.

Lawa race, xi.

Lawa villages, 36.

Lawas, the, and their customs, 38.

Leaning pagoda, 188.

Lent, the Buddhist, 258.

Lepers, banishment of, 78.

Legend of Chaum Taung, 226.

Legend of Kiang Mee-ang, 198.

Legend of Loi Chaum Haut, 323.

Legend of Loi Htong, 182.

Legend of Loi Kiang Dow, 324.

Legend of Me-lang-ta, 58.

Legend of Muang Nŏng, 187.

Legend of Nan Cham-a-ta-we, 49.

Legend of Poo-Sa and Ya-Sa, 57.

Legend of the dipped prince, 269.

Legend of the hare-lip, 345.

Legend of the Kow Din, 460.

Legend of the Lakon, 271.

Legend of the rapids, 69.

Legend of the Ring Lake, 272.

Legend of Tum Tap Tow, 342.

Legend of Wat Pra Non, 317.

Liars, the greatest, in the East, the Siamese, 298.

Libraries of the monasteries, 301.

Loi Ap Nang, 399.

Loi Chang Hong, 396.

Loi Chaum Haut, 369.

Loi Chaum Haut mountain, 323.

Loi Chong Teng, 320.

Loi Hin Poon, 393.

Loi Hoo-a Soo-a, 76.

Loi Hsope Kang, 74.

Loi Kai Khee-a, 73.

Loi Kat Pee, 324.

Loi Ken Noi, 329.

Loi Keng Soi, 397.

Loi Kern, 64, 393.

Loi Kiang Dow, 323, 335.

Loi Kom, 56.

Loi Kom Ngam, 47.

Loi Kom Ngam mountain, 44.

Loi Kong Lome, 250.

Loi Kook Loi Chang, 148.

Loi Koon Htan, 285.

Loi Kow Chung, 440.

Loi Kow Luong, 441.

Loi Kyoo Pa Săng, 341.

Loi Law village, 77.

Loi Loo-en, 225.

Loi Luong hills, 401.

Loi Meh Pa Neh, 404.

Loi Mok, 144, 309.

Loi Mon Kow Ngam, 270.

Loi Mum Moo, 140, 309.

Loi Nan, the Lady’s Hill, 335, 338.

Loi Oo-um, 369.

Loi Pa Chan, 136.

Loi Pa Chan plateau, 309.

Loi Pa Hem, 205.

Loi Pa Kha range, 401.

Loi Pa May-Yow, 396.

Loi Pa Tyoo, 144.

Loi Pa-Yat Pa-Yai, 332, 341.

Loi Pah Heeng, 256.

Loi Pah Khow hill, 56, 72.

Loi Pah Kung, “the mountain of the tiger’s head,” 76.

Loi Panya Lawa, 395.

Loi Poo-ay, 153.

Loi Pwe, 46.

Loi Saun-Ka-tee, 205.

Loi Soo Tayp mountain, 91 —ascent of, 120.

Loi Ta Khan Lai, 74.

Loi Tat Muang Ken, 368.

Loi Tong Wai, 46, 47.

Loi Too-ey, 329.

Loi Wung Ka Chow, 402.

Lolo and Kaun villages, 365.

Lotus, use of the, as a symbol, 51.

Lover’s lute, description of a, 386.

Luang Prabang, 21, 135, 321.

MacLeod’s, General, journey to China through Burmah, viii.

M‘Gilvary, Dr and Mrs, 94—the Doctor joins the exploring party, 123 —sermon to the people by, 333.

Madras boys good fighters, 7 —their honesty, 128.

Maing Loongyee, 16, 24, 27 —its watersupply, 31.

Manners, learning, 304.

Maps of the country, 332.

Market at Zimmé, 100 —great variety of wares at, _ib._

Markets, need for new, 415.

Marriage customs, 174—curious, 366.

Martin, Rev. Mr, 94 —joins party, 313 _et seq._

Mau Sau, a celebrated native hunter, 353.

Maulmain thoroughfare, 4.

Maung Doo, halt at, 127.

Maung Fang, leave for, 315.

Maung Haut, 61 —party leaves, 69.

Maung Hit, excursion to, 196.

Maung Kent, 328.

Maung Pan, state of, 156.

Meals, 84 —daily particulars of, 249.

Medicine and pills, theft of, 383.

Medicines, stock of, 6 —Siamese, 174, 273 —ingredients in a dose, 274.

Meh Ai, the river of shame, 346.

Meh Chan, 351.

Meh Chun valley, 76.

Meh Fang, 341 —camping at, 344 —river, 360 —valley of the, 75.

Meh Gat, 42.

Meh Hang, 329, 341.

Meh Hau Prat, stream, 44, 370.

Meh Haut river, 61.

Meh Hkort valley, 136.

Meh Hkuang, 392.

Meh Hkuang river, 88, 127, 288.

Meh How river, 284.

Meh Hto river, 48.

Meh Ing, 153.

Meh Ing river, 225, 247.

Meh Ka, 91.

Meh Ka Lah, 136.

Meh Ka Ni, 42.

Meh Ka Tone, 27.

Meh Kang, 74, 135.

Meh Kee-ow, 309.

Meh Khan, 87.

Meh Khoke plain, 165.

Meh Kok, 27, 135.

Meh Kong or Cambodia river, 21, 156, 224 —great eastern bend of the, 190.

Meh Kong valley, 23.

Meh Lah river, 255.

Meh Lai, 393.

Meh Lai river, 45.

Meh Laik river, 24, 44.

Meh Li, 75.

Meh Lim, 320.

Meh Low, 88 —hot springs of, 311 —valley of the, 308.

Meh Lye, 44.

Meh Mau river, 256.

Meh Nam delta, population of the, 460.

Meh Nam river, navigation on the, 250, 441 _et seq._

Meh Ngat, crossing the, 363 —defile of the, 368.

Meh Ngor river, 21, 24 —its width and depth, 26.

Meh Ngow, arrival of expedition at, 252 —description of the city of, 253.

Meh Nium river, 20, 21, 24, 31.

Meh Nium valley, 44.

Meh Pai, 353.

Meh Pa-pai, 60.

Meh Pau, a tributary of the Thoungyeen river, 17.

Meh Phit, 75.

Meh Pik, or the Pepper river, 147.

Meh Ping, 64, 127, 320, 330 —sources of the, 328.

Meh Poi, 341.

Meh Sa river, 320.

Meh Sa Lin river, 31, 42.

Meh Soo-ay, a royal game-preserve, 147.

Meh Sow river, 287.

Meh Ta, valley of the, 88, 287.

Meh Ta Loke, 360.

Meh Tan, 393.

Meh Teng valley, 329.

Meh Teun, 393.

Meh Tha Wah, 18, 23.

Meh Too, 23.

Meh Trien, valley of the, 283.

Meh Tyen, 48.

Meh Wung, 141 —valley of the, 251 —villages on the, 278 —crossing the, 283 —basin of the, 309 —mouth of, 403.

Meh Yee-ep, 393.

Meh Yom, 439.

Meh Yu-ek, 251.

Mehongson, 353.

Merchandise brought by Chinese traders, 213.

Mha Tha Ket, 48.

Meh Wung, 404.

Mineral springs, 24.

Missionaries approve of the extension of the railway system, 96 —friendly footing of, 205 —illness of, 363.

Missionaries bad sportsmen, 357.

Missions, promising field for, 389.

Mokmai, a Burmese Shan State, 334.

Mon race and language, the, xi.

Monasteries in Maing Loongyee, 31.

Monastery, visit to a, 78.

Monastic life, entering, 337.

Moné, the chief of, subject to Great Britain, 157.

Mong Hpai, 432.

Mong Nai, 432.

Monk spoilt by the ladies, 165.

Monks, evil practices of, 301.

Monopolies, effect of, 365.

Monosyllabic languages, 161.

Moonlight scene, a, 330.

Moung Loogalay, 326.

Mountain villages of the Khas, 21.

Moway, famous quarries of, 300.

Muang Fang, 337 —arrival at, 347 —description of, _ib._ —population of, 349 —history of, 353 —cost of carriage to, _ib._ —leave the city, 360.

Muang Hăng State, 335.

Muang Haut, 295, 392.

Muang Hpan, 223.

Muang Ken, 368.

Muang Ko, 437.

Muang La Maing, 120.

Muang Len, 426.

Muang Ngai burned, 335 —the city of, 338.

Muang Ngam, 350.

Muang Ngow city, 245.

Muang Nium principality, 30.

Muang Nyon, 350.

Muang Penyow, 229.

Muang Phan, 221.

Muang Sat, 350.

Muang Soon Dok, the town of the flower-garden, 120.

Mud, boiling, to make tea, 225.

Musical water-wheels, 89.

Myawadi, 419.

Naiads, offerings to the, 259.

Nam Proon, 432.

Needlework, fancy, 103.

Neis, Dr Paul, French navy, 135 —his survey for a railway route, 278.

New Htow, 394.

Nga-peur-dau village, 14.

Ngio (Burmese Shans) raids, 365.

Ngio, or Moné Shans, 158.

Ngu race, xi.

Nirvana, the state of, 337.

Nong Doo Sakan, 88.

Nong Hang, 225.

Nong Sang, 89.

Nong Vee-a plain, 342.

Offerings to the dead, 17, 147 —for the monks, 257 —to the spirits of the land or rivers, 259 —to the good influences, 373.

Ogres, Madras boys taken for, 167.

Oo-caw stream, 24.

Ootaradit, 441.

Organ or pipes, the Laos, 339.

Oxen used for drawing timber, 308.

Paddy-birds, flocks of, 209.

Pagoda, a fine, 91 —of the Emerald Rice-bowl, 121 —on Loi Tee, 288.

Pahpoon, 33.

Pah Took, 255.

Pa-kin-soo, 392.

Pak Bong, 88.

Pak Muang, 90.

Pak Nam Po, 441, 442.

Palace at Zimmé, 101.

Palace of the angels, description of the, 324.

Palmyra-trees, 401.

Pang Eemoon, swampy valley of, 60.

Pang Hpan, 43.

Pang Ngao, village of, 225.

Pang Pau, 341.

Pa Sang, 88.

Pass 6500 feet above the sea, 156 —a dangerous, 287 —a difficult, 342.

Passports supplied to the exploring party, 125.

Paths over the hills, nature of the, 36.

Patriarch, family, 129.

Pau-ku-lay Toung, 17.

Pau Pa Teun, 177.

Pedlars, Burmese, 253.

Penyow, 224 —expedition leaves, 246.

Peoples, Dr, 112 _et seq._

Petchaburi, governor of, 407.

Petroleum at Kiang Dow and Muang Fang, 333.

Petticoats, purchasing, 392.

Phayre, Sir Arthur, on British interests in Siam, 421.

Phichai, 441.

Photographic apparatus spoiled, 20.

Phya Khrut or Garuda, the king of eagles, 234.

Pigs, wild, ravages of, 186.

Pillar-Rock, 401.

Ping Shans, 49.

Plain, a beautiful, 364.

Plants, dangerous, in the jungle, 361.

Play, a Shan, 338.

Poayhla, 430, 432.

Portuguese ousted from Burmah, vii.

Pottery, manufacture of, 233.

Prayers, chanting, 452.

Prices of various articles at Maulmain, Bangkok, and Zimmé, 296.

Primitive pagoda, a, 308.

Prince, an intelligent, on the best railway route, 143.

Princes in their best clothes, 154.

Princess trader, visit to a, 103 —her opinion on the proposed railway, _ib._ —friend to the missionaries, 117.

Principality, ancient, of Hsen, 200.

Prisdang’s, Prince, letter, 114.

Prison of Bangkok, 451.

Prisoners in chains sawing timber, 102.

Procession of exploring party when entering Kiang Hai, 154.

Propitiation of spirits, 179.

Provisions, out of, 358.

Punishments in the Buddhist hells, 263.

Purchas’s visit to Zimmé, vii.

Quambee, 10.

Quanta, 3.

Quinine, value of, 363.

Races, separation of, in the cities, 352.

Rachel, a Shan, 228.

Raheng, 15 —the White Elephant route to, 278 —reach, 404 —leave, 435.

Railway communication, proposed branch line from Yembine to Tehdau-Sakan, 1 —proposed route of railway from Maulmain, 48 —paths for a railway, 56, 75 —discussion with the King of Zimmé about the railway, 102 —suggested route, 143 —road for a line to China, 151 —Dr Cheek on the prospects of a Burmah-China railway, 170 —branch line to Muang Fang, 184 —benefits of opening up the country by, 196 —chief’s opinion regarding labour, &c., for constructing, 214 —loop-line to Zimmé, 215 —proposed route to Muang Phan, 222 —importance of Penyow in regard to, 232 —route along the valley of the Meh Wung, 251 —how to tap the trade of Muang Nan and Muang Peh, 252 —proposed line from Bangkok _viâ_ Lakon, 255 —Dr Neis on the railway connection of Burmah and China, 278 —cheap labour for the railway, 281 —desire for the projected railway, 292 —a branch line from Lakon, 309 —line from Zimmé to Kiang Hsen, 361 —talk with Prince Bigit on the subject of railways, 381 —routes for the railway, 403 —importance of connecting India with China, 415 —the Indo-Burmese and Burmo-Chinese projects, 416 _et seq._ —advantages of Maulmain as a terminus, 417 —the Siamese route to Raheng, 418 —Sir Charles Bernard and other authorities on the projected routes, 419 _et seq._ —character of the Bhamo route, 429 —the Maulmain or nothing, 433 —commercial importance of the proposed railway, 434 —resolutions of Chambers of Commerce on the Burmah-Siam-China Railway, 464 _et seq._

Rain-god Indra, descent of the, 260.

Rangoon and Mandalay railway, 14.

Rapids shooting, dangerous, 395 _et seq._

Raspberries, wild, 46.

Rebellion of the Zimmé Shans against Burmah, 88.

Religious buildings erected by the Burmese, 124 —ruined, 355.

Rénan’s, Ernest, ‘New Studies of Religious History’ quoted, p. 57, note.

Responsibility of villagers for loss and crime in their district, 139.

Rice-plain, a large, 179.

Rice-plain of Zimmé, 127 —export of, from Penyow to Lakon, 231.

Richardson, Dr, viii. —his visit to Maing Loongyee in 1829, 30.

Ringworm, 192.

River, a filthy, 230.

Robbing an image, 198.

Romantic princess, a, 117.

Roses, wild, 247.

Routes from China, 213.

Rubies, searching for, 403.

Ruby-mines, 61, 266.

Ruins of temples, extensive, near Kiang Hsen, 193.

Russia and Siam, comparison between, 297.

Russian railway across Asia, projected, 420.

Sacred cave of Tum Tap Tow, 342.

Sacred hills, 182.

Sacrifices to evil spirits, 22 —to ancestors and demons, 52.

Salt used as currency in the Zimmé market, 164.

Salween mountain, 329.

Salween river, 3, 10.

Sambhur deer, a, 403.

Samuel, Thomas, first English visitor to the Shan States, vii.

Sapphire-mines, 462.

Satow, Mr, British consul-general in Siam, 419.

Sawankalok, 439.

Scott, Mr (Shwé Yoe), on religious tortures, 380, 445.

Service, evening, in a temple, 316.

Settlements, formation of, 220 —method of forming new, 350.

Sgau Karens, 17.

Shadow spirit, the, 83.

Shan dynasties in Burmah, 82.

Shan ladies, visit to, 321.

Shan language and its dialects, 312.

Shan Queen in English dress, 119.

Shan race, xv.

Shan States or kingdoms, 32.

Shans bartering goods, 46.

Shaving the head and eyebrows, 304.

Shoaygoon, 1, 3.

‘Siam and Laos,’ by Dr Cheek, quoted, 170.

Siam, British stake in, 420.

Siam railways need high embankments, 411.

Siamese authorities, apathy of, 390.

Siamese Commissioner, visit the, 113.

Siamese, description and dress of, 113.

Siamese frontier post, 20.

Siamese history, early, xiii.

Siamese officials expect bribes, 19.

Silk-cotton trees, 71.

Silver coinage in use, 163.

Silver-mines, 75, 403.

Siva worship, 319.

Sketching the scenery of the country, 64.

Slave-bondage, 131.

Slavery, gambling a cause of, 238 —the law of Siam, regarding, _ib._ —parents selling children into, 240.

Slavery in Bangkok, 452.

Slaves, price of, 31, 130 —purchased from Red Karens, 388.

Smallpox, outbreak of, 28 —outbreak of, in Penyow, 232 —callousness of natives as to, 233.

Smith-work of the Shans, 55.

Snake, sitting on a, 362.

Snake-worship, 318.

Soil and foliage, 146.

Song Kare, 91.

Song Kweh, 400.

Soom Cha, 402.

Spinning-wheels, emigrants carrying, 363.

Spirit-clans, formation of, 396.

Spirit-medium, a, 105.

Spirit-worship of Ping Shans, 373.

Spirit-worshippers, 15.

Spirits alluring travellers, 398.

Springs, hot, 340.

Ssumao, a Chinese frontier post, 151.

Stone images of Buddha, 233.

Stork, King, 448.

Story of a yak, 59.

Story of the peacock and crow, 63.

Straining water, 323.

Street, Colonel, 48.

Subterranean channels, 24.

Sugar-press, a simple, 74.

Suicide by no means unusual, 152.

Sukkhothai, 439.

Sunday service by Dr M‘Gilvary, 216.

Superstition, degrading influence of, 82.

Survey of passes between Siam and Burmah, 391.

Surveying, 9 —under difficulties, 139.

Surveys made for the King of Siam by English engineers for railways, 196.

Sworn brothers, 354.

Ta Kwai village, 90.

Ta Nong Hluang ferry, 71.

Ta Nong Pai, 91.

Ta Pa or “rock-ferry,” 73.

Ta Pwee ford, 402.

Ta Wang Pow, 89.

Tai Ngio people, 157.

Tali-foo, 427.

Tattooing, practice of, 138.

Taxation in Siam, vexatious, 447.

Taxation, light, 135 —burdensome, in Siam, 244 —light, in Shan States, 245.

Taxes in Kiang Hai, 163.

Tea-growing on the hills to the west of Meh Ping, 369.

Tea, wild, plant, 24, 320.

Teaching in a monastery, 304.

Teak-forests in the Thoungyeen valley, 21 —forests belong to chiefs, 135 —forests, 198.

Teak-trees, 10 _et seq._

Tee-tee-ko, 16.

Teh-dan-Sakan, 12, 14, 16.

Temple, Shan description of a, 66.

Temple, Sir Richard, on the proposed railway to China, 424.

Tenasserim division of Burmah, 1.

Thatone, 4.

Thoungyeen river, 10–16, 20 _et seq._—, 405.

Thoungyeen valley, 21.

Thunderstorm, tremendous, 281.

Tigers, scaring, 137 —prowling of, 179.

Timber king, a, and the money-lenders, 28.

Tobacco, cutting, 57 —caravan laden with, 346.

Tobacco-gardens, 70.

Toon Chang, 460.

Torture at the police courts, 450.

Tower muskets in use, 311.

Trade and traffic of Zimmé, 104.

Trade between British Burmah and Siam, and its Shan states, 117.

Trade-routes, intersection of, at Kiang Hsen, 195 —to Penyow, 232.

Trading caravan, a, 11.

Transmigration of the soul, belief in the, 112.

Travellers delayed, 296.

Tree-ferns, 44.

Trees inhabited by spirits, 110.

Trial by water, 260.

Trichinosis, 346.

Tricks with the currency, 164, 165.

Tsin-sway, or Elephant-tusk stream, 23.

Tum Kwan, ceremony of, 373.

Tutelary gods, belief in, 231.

Underground rivers, 395.

Venison for dinner, 15.

Viang Chai, 336.

Viang Chaum Taung, 227.

Viang Ma-nee-ka, 345.

Viang Moo Bom, city of, 228.

Viang Pa Pow, 142, 307.

Viang Pow, 353 —surrounded by a palisade, 364 —population of, 365 —cost of carriage to, 366 —trade-routes from, _ib._

Villages swept away by floods, 412 —a line of, 444.

Wages of boatmen, 66.

Wang Hluang Pow, 87.

War-paths leading from Burmah to Zimmé and Siam, 30.

Warming of Buddh, the, 265.

Waterfalls, high, 42, 397.

Water festival at the New Year, 265.

Water-parting between the Meh Ping and Meh Kong, 360.

Water-wheels, 75.

Wat Phra Chow Toon Hluang, 227.

Webster, Rev. David, American Baptist Mission, 19 _et seq._—390.

Whistling rockets, 219.

White Elephant, temple of the, 315.

Wilson, Rev. Jonathan, 96.

Witch villages, 143.

Witchcraft, spirit of, 106 —false charges of, 109 —action of missionaries with respect to, 110.

Witches considered free agents, 108.

Woman put in chains, 218.

Women, shameless, 393.

Wood-oil, collection and uses of, 249.

Wood with a horrible odour, 180.

Wung Hoo-a-Kwai, 74.

Wung Muang, 321.

Wung Pan, 74.

Yain Sa Lin, 35, 42.

Yaks of Indo-China, 58.

Yambine river, 11.

Yare-they-mare hill, 11.

Yembine valley, excursion in the, 13.

Yembine village, 14.

Yingan river, 12.

Yule, Sir Henry, on the Burmah-Siam-China Railway, 423.

Yunnanese traders to Maulmain, 210.

Yunnan-foo, 427.

Zimmé, arrival at, 93 —our reception, 94 —account, 95 _et seq._ —population, 98 —visit the king, 101 —discussion on the proposed railway, 102 —departure from, 127.

Zimmé chain of hills, 56.

Zimmé, leave, without interpreters, 306.

Zimmé plain, villages in the, 288.

Zimmé, Shan state of, and its former extent, 32.

Zylophone, a native, 322.

-----

Footnote 1:

In his ‘New Studies of Religious History,’ Ernest Renan points out that the ruins of Ancor, in Southern Indo-China, “are now ascribed with certainty to the ninth, tenth, and eleventh centuries of our era. In them Sivaism and Buddhism are blended; and Sivaism appears here before Buddhism.” There can be no doubt that Sivaism, or the worship of the hero-gods of the hills, in China and Indo-China, is connected with the ancient religion of the non-Aryan Himalayan hill tribes. Siva was not incorporated by the Brahmans into their pantheon until about the commencement of our era.

Footnote 2:

Milton, “Comus,” act i.

Footnote 3:

Peh Muang merely means the division or boundary of the States, and is applied to all ranges that form boundaries.

Footnote 4:

Siam and Laos, p. 544.

Footnote 5:

During the present _lawka_, or existence of the world, four Buddhas are said to have appeared. The dispensation of each lasts 5000 years. Gaudama Buddha was the last of the four, and his death, according to the Ceylon histories, occurred B.C. 543, but according to Professor Muller, B.C. 477, or a year after that of Confucius. A _lawka_ is a whole revolution of nature. The world, according to Buddhists, is continuously destroyed and reproduced, but each _lawka_ lasts an incalculable length of years.

Footnote 6:

A Dewah, or inhabitant of Indra’s heaven.

Footnote 7:

Mr Archer gives the Siamese pronunciation of the names; I give that of my Burmese Shan interpreters.

Footnote 8:

Most Chinese and Indo-Chinese cities are under tutelary deities, as the cities in Egypt and Babylonia were in ancient times. The same custom prevails in India, where many cities are presided over by incarnations of one or other of the gods.

Footnote 9:

The great masses of the common people are marked and designated as Prai-luang. These are scattered all over the country. The provincial or the city authorities can demand of those thus marked three months’ personal services each year, and there may be extra demands if there is a seeming need. The usual mode is to require service one month, and then allow them three months to carry on their own pursuits. The only derangement to this plan is the extra service. No pay is allowed for this service. For failure to perform the service he must pay $3.60 each month.—Extract from ‘The Siam Repository.’

Footnote 10:

Committed by themselves or by their relations. The law frequently adjudges, besides punishment to the man, that his family and descendants shall for the future be slaves of the Government. The descendants of captives in war are classed and treated as Government slaves.

Footnote 11:

“The abolition of the system of _corvée_, which weighs very heavily on the people, would be a boon of infinite benefit to the country. It is not only that the service lawfully due is heavy, but the opportunity for imposing vexatious and severe labour, with a view to receiving a bribe for dispensing with it, is eagerly taken advantage of by unscrupulous officials. A poll-tax of reasonable amount would probably bring in a greater sum to the Royal revenues, and would bear but lightly on the people.”—Consular Report, Siam, No. 1, (1886).

Footnote 12:

Up to August 1885, when George Washington, the second King of Siam, died, a duplicate king reigned in Siam in conjunction with the supreme monarch, and had much the same power as a Chow Hona has in the Shan States.

Footnote 13:

During my various journeys I passed through or near 222 villages in the portion of the Zimmé plain lying between the entrance of the Meh Teng, into the Meh Ping on the north and the junction of the Meh Hkuang with the Meh Ping on the south—including those on the various branches of the river.

Footnote 14:

The prince at the head of the Gem City.

Footnote 15:

Page 219.

Footnote 16:

_Butea frondosa._

Footnote 17:

The province of Kiang Hsen, not the city; the latter was only reoccupied in 1881.

Footnote 18:

The _kwun_ among the Shans has a resemblance to the _ka-la_ or guardian angel believed in by the Karens. The Karens believe that everything living, vegetable or animal, possesses a _ka-la_, which still remains with the soul of the plant or animal after its body is destroyed, and accompanies a man to his future abode of bliss or punishment. Its place is on the head or neck of every human being. As long as it remains seated in its place the Karen is safe from all attacks of evil spirits; but if it is enticed away by others, or jumps down and wanders away during the body’s sleep, then follow sickness and death. If a man is sick or pining away, his spirit is supposed to be wandering, and has to be enticed back with an offering of good.

Footnote 19:

Siam Repository, 1869.

Footnote 20:

The Karens sometimes bury an infant alive with its mother; and amongst the Kakhyens, a wild tribe in the north of Burmah, if a woman dies within seven days of childbirth, the corpse, living child, house, and every article in the house, are burnt. The child may be adopted by a stranger, but it must not remain in the village, and no Kakhyen will have anything to do with it.

Footnote 21:

It is strange to find a custom in vogue many centuries ago in Egypt still practised amongst the Shans in Indo-China. In Egypt frequently the whole skin of the embalmed body was covered with gold-leaf; in other cases the face, the eyelids, and sometimes only the nails.

Footnote 22:

Spirit-worship.

Footnote 23:

The Pee Song Nang, if belonging to the primitive Turanian spirits, so generally believed in by the Shans, are neither male nor female spirits. All such spirits, unlike the ancient Chaldean deities, have neither husbands, wives, nor children, and are utterly devoid of any of the good points appertaining to human beings. They know neither law nor kindness, do not listen to prayer and supplication, and are merely objects of dread to the people. They are sacrificed to only to keep them in a good humour, and to prevent them wreaking their vengeance and spite upon the people.

Footnote 24:

The length of the branch line is estimated at 160 miles, the cost at one and a half million sterling, which is equivalent to Rs. 136,363 a mile, taking exchange at 1s. 4¼d. The 108 miles opened in Upper Burmah up to December 31, 1888, cost, according to the last “Administration Report on the Railways in India,” only Rs. 50,349 per mile.

Footnote 25:

Two hundred and seventy-five British steamers and 16 British sailing-vessels visited Bangkok in 1888, and only 17 French steamers and no French sailing-vessels. The gross sea-borne trade of Bangkok in the same year was valued at over four millions sterling, the imports at £1,657,708, and the exports at £2,598,901. The import of cotton manufactures was valued at £302,746, and cotton yarns at £40,936.

Footnote 26:

In 1888, 27,118 bullocks were exported from Bangkok, and according to the last Consular Report, “the export of cattle overland to Burmah is said to be about double that from Bangkok.” One hundred thousand head of cattle—buffaloes and bullocks—have died in a single year of cattle-disease in Burmah, and a large portion of the area of our province would have been thrown out of cultivation if it had not been for the supplies we were able to draw from Siam.

Footnote 27:

A superstitious belief that the ancient trade-routes must necessarily be the best has always influenced Indian officialism. It overlooks the important fact that routes which were well adapted for caravan traffic may be quite unsuitable for railway communication; and also that the character and localities of commerce have changed since the ancient routes were opened up.

Footnote 28:

The son of the late regent was then Kalahom, or Prime Minister of Siam, and the Kalahom’s daughter is the king’s first wedded wife, but without the rank of queen. The present queens, right and left, are half-sisters of the king, and full sisters of Prince Devawongse. The Kalahom, the Kromatah or Foreign Minister—who was a half-brother of the ex-regent—and the uncle of the king, who were the heads of the nobles that opposed progress, have been removed by death or resigned since my visit, and the king has no longer a pretence for delaying to propagate measures for the improvement of his administration and the welfare of his people.

Footnote 29:

These railways, with the exception of the branch from Maulmain, are now being surveyed by English engineers, under Sir Andrew Clarke’s syndicate, for the King of Siam.

Footnote 30:

China has since been able to borrow at five per cent.

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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

Page Changed from Changed to

380 olio of religions and religious folio of religions and religious superstitions. superstitions.

● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. ● Zimmé is Chiangmai, Thailand. ● Used numbers for footnotes, placing them all at the end of the last chapter. ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. ● Enclosed bold font in =equals=.