CHAPTER VI.

ANT-HILLS. — TRIBE OF THE NUÈHRS. — THE JENGÄHS. — KAWASS OR SERJEANT MÁRIAN FROM MOUNT HABILA. — DESCRIPTION OF HIM. — TOKULS OF THE JENGÄHS. — FIRST APPEARANCE OF GAZELLES. — THE RIVER N’JIN-N’JIN. — WORSHIP OF TREES. — THE GALLAS OR STEPPES. — BLACK COLOUR OF THE RIVER. — NEW SPECIES OF PLANTS. — THE BITTERN AND IBIS. —“BAUDA” OR GNATS: THEIR DREADFUL STING. — LIEUT. ABD-ELLIÀB’S CRUELTY TO HIS FEMALE SLAVE. — THE TOKRURI OR PILGRIM. — CURIOUS SUPERSTITION WITH REGARD TO THESE MEN. — MOUNTAIN CHAIN OF NUBA. — PAPYRUS ANTIQUUS OR GIGANTIC RUSH. — GAZELLE RIVER. — DEAD FISH. — DIFFERENT SPECIES OF SNAKES. — ARABIC SONGS AND FESTIVITY ON BOARD. — JENGÄHS SUPPOSED TO BE WORSHIPPERS OF THE MOON: THEIR MANNER OF TATOOING. — STRIFE BETWEEN THE SOLDIERS AND SAILORS. — ANTIPATHY OF THE FRENCH ENGINEERS TO EACH OTHER. — LOCUSTS. — TORMENT OF THE GNATS: THEIR VARIOUS SPECIES. — BARBARITY OF THE TURKS ON THE FORMER EXPEDITION. — MARVELLOUS STORIES OF THE ARABS. — HATRED OF THE NATIVES TO THE TURKS.

8th December.—At day-break we proceed towards S.W. with north-west wind; three miles. At nine o’clock N.N.W. We see from the deck sixteen villages on the left shore; on the right, close to the border of the river, a number of little hills, overgrown with sward, and therefore, perhaps, formerly strongholds of ants, like those characteristic hills of ashes, which would seem to denote an ancient pastoral station. Further inland are distinguished, on the ancient old shore, up to which all is bare, two large villages. The stately palms also on the right, appear now to lose themselves in the extensive plain. We go N.W., and make five miles.

About ten o’clock, I surveyed on the right twenty-one villages, in the country of the Shilluks, on a green plain, in which, with the exception of some palms, there were no trees, and which took up the whole horizon from W. to N.E. Ou the left hand, the neighbouring right shore was nearly bare. Whilst we sail to N.W., two mountains, the one in front appearing to be covered with wood, rise in the S.W., at a distance of three or four hours.

At half-past eleven o’clock, we go on shore to the left, in the country of the Nuèhrs, to take in wood for ten or fourteen days, as it is said that there are merely reeds further up. No sunt presented itself here, but stunted geïlids and miserable ebony, which, however, cannot be cut, owing to its hardness. On the left shore here, are the boundaries of the Shilluks, and the Jengähs follow. An extensive green meadow, with neither trees nor houses on it, separates these two tribes.

The Kawass (serjeant) on board our vessel, gives me much welcome information on the condition of this people. He is called Màrian, from Mount Habila, and is the son of the murdered Mak, or King of all the mountains of Nuba, a hundred and eighty in number, according to him, and subject formerly to his father, who was slain by the Turks. He was made a slave, and was obliged, as being such, to change his name from Uadassa to that of Marian. He is of middle height, has a regular black countenance, with vertical streaks on the temples; on the forehead he is tattooed, and has ten holes at the edge of each ear, from which the Turks have taken his gold rings. He is a sensible and modest man; has been in the service thirteen years, and understands it, but has not been able to gain promotion, because he is entirely forgotten, and has no one to make the necessary intercession for him: his young son, however, was preserved at the time, and Marian’s uncle, who pays tribute to the Turks, has appointed him his deputy. Marian perceives that his tribe cannot do anything, even with the greatest bravery, against fire-arms, and therefore does not wish to acquire his freedom again by deserting. Besides this man, there are two Dinkas, a Shillkaui, and a Jengäh, on board, though hitherto I have found it impossible to learn the slightest thing from them about the manners and customs of their country, because they consider that such information would be treachery to their countrymen.

At one o’clock, we got again under weigh towards S.W., and kept more to the left side of the river. About half-past two o’clock, we saw the first tokuls of the Jengähs, which are far more slovenly built than those of the Shilluks; they stand a quarter of an hour distant from the shore, near a single dhellèb palm: we landed near them. A sürtuk lay there, forty feet long, with vertical sides and pointed ends; the stern of the boat, although made of hard timber, is closed diagonally by a piece of wood: it appeared to be hewn out of the trunk of a dhellèb palm. A beautiful kind of mimosa, with thick foliage and yellowish red flowers, like floss silk, struck me especially. The blue clay soil was full of foot-prints of river buffaloes, several of whom shewed themselves yesterday evening, and blew their sackbuts stoutly.

We saw also this morning, for the first time, two giraffes, called, however, Saràff, and said to be very abundant here. As there was nothing to be gained, and no people shewed themselves, we left the place. Soon afterwards we saw a village on the same side, with some dhellèb and doum palms; near it a river, running from N.W. by W., flows into the white stream, which, however, was taken for an arm of the latter. I subsequently ascertained from our Jengäh Bachit, that the name of this little river is N’jin-N’jin, and goes far in his country towards W. He called the white stream Kih, and afterwards Kidi. The sounds in their language are really inarticulate, and they can hardly pronounce an Arabic word so sharply as our characters require.

Up to five o’clock, we had on the right shore, before which a green margin lies in the water, thirty-four villages of the Nuèhrs, each containing from twenty to a hundred and more tokuls. Only a few of these enjoy the shade of trees. I believe it to be certain, that where Nature has once planted propitiously a shoot, and this shoot, by its growth, has triumphed over the voracity of beasts, and the wantonness of man, or stood beyond the reach of their necessities, the tree may easily become an object of veneration to people living in a state of nature, owing to the shade it affords to meetings in the open air.

We sail continually N.W., with slight deviations to one side or the other. We advance three miles, an arm of the Nile scarcely 200 paces broad. There is said to be a larger arm on the left side, as appears also to be the case on the right, where we saw a man take his little canoe on his head, and carry it to the houses near at hand. The right shore has here no habitations of the Nuèhrs; beyond the river’s edge, and also behind the houses the Galla, or Steppe, is visible. The before-named mountains on the right shore, the larger one of which is almost covered with masses of rock, appearing at a distance like large trees, and behind which three smaller curly heads follow, have vanished towards the south. We sail N.W. by W., and another considerable mountain appears on the flat grassy scene towards N.W., whilst we anchor, at sunset, in the middle of the river. Our Bakhi (who was taken prisoner from Bakhara, and was previously called Denn) did not know the name of the hilly ridge lying in the mountainous country of the Jengähs. The N’jin-N’jin, however, which he also calls Kih, meaning the same as river, or water, is said to flow past the foot of high mountains. I was told that when the reed-grass, standing from three to six feet above the water, and becoming very dry from the sun, soon after the inundation has run off, although the roots may be still under water, is ignited, a young and tender grass springs forth, of which cattle are said to be very fond.

The white stream here, and indeed since yesterday, might be really called the _Black River_. The latter colour arises partly from the Thin, that heavy clayey morass with which the bed of the river is covered, instead of floating sandy particles; and partly also from the dark kind of moss, that we see among the reeds, continuing to the bottom of the river, for the current (amounting here to less than half a mile), is not able to keep its course clear. This long marshy lake, of some two hours in breadth, discloses a new world of plants, in various high grasses and bog-shrubs. The swarms of little birds seem to find their nourishment in the ripening seeds. I remarked two bitterns, having the greatest resemblance to our water-hens—silver-grey, with a white wing: and also the black Ibis. The small detached islands, linked together by marsh-plants, floated only very slowly, although the contrary wind had quite subsided.

_9th December._—The latitude, yesterday evening, was 9° 4′. The river, or Kih N’jin-N’jin, would therefore disembogue itself between 9° 12′ and 9° 4′. Our Gohr, as it pleased them to call the arm of the Nile, which we navigated yesterday evening, and which was scarcely fifty paces broad, has increased this morning to 100 and 150 paces in breadth, ever according to the caprice of the reed-grass, _predominant_ here, and impudently intruding itself, for the stream has scarcely anything to do with it. A very strong dew hung on the grass in large pearly drops, very refreshing to the eye at sunrise. The thermometer shewed 20° heat. The distant shore of this marshy lake was denoted by isolated trees and a few small villages. We were obliged to take again to the oars, as on yesterday evening, and went N.W.

A dreadful pest has made its appearance in these lakes. “Baùda” is the horrible name, and means nothing else than gnats, which, when a calm sets in, make the people, and especially the half-naked sailors, nearly mad. On the right side of the Nile we perceive no human habitations. The nation of the Nuèhrs is said, thus far, to dwell more towards the interior, on the left shore of the Sobàt, and may therefore keep at a distance these frightful swarms of gnats, that torment man and beast. On the left bank we saw, at an hour’s distance beyond the reed-lake, eleven small villages; yet the nation of the Jenjähs is said to be very numerous, and to inhabit the shores of their N’jin-N’jin in populous villages, situated on inaccessible mountains. At nine o’clock we sailed, with a tolerably favourable east wind, W. by S., and made three miles, whilst the rapidity of the current might have been about a mile. Clouds had collected in the sky, and we feared rain, to which the Egyptian inhabitants of the Nile are so sensitive.

At eleven o’clock the S.E. wind set in, when we went due N.W. The river, which has, up to this place, a breadth of from four to five hundred paces, widens again to about an hour’s breadth. A marshy swamp, however, soon again intrudes: its pointed angle springs from the right shore, so that the latter can be only an hour distant, even to the trees over the green grass-land, whilst the left shore, on the contrary, has retreated this hour and a half into an immeasurable bay, the limits of which cannot be reached by the eye, even from the mast. That we should not remark any villages in the vicinity of this marshy land, is naturally to be expected.

The right shore becomes wooded, and we see, everywhere, rising pillars of smoke, said to be signals, as the natives can discern our vessels from thence. At 1 o’clock, the right shore, on the foreground of which groups of ambaks rise, is about two hours’ distant. We noticed numerous morass birds collected on this wide plain. This marsh-tree, towards the left side of the shore, appears to delude us in the same manner, since it assumes the form of groups of trees, belonging, at other times, to firm ground. A new morass-plant, rising to a great height, with large corollas, similar to a tuft of reeds, elevates, here and there, its long bare stalks. Its external appearance indicates it, even from afar, to be the _papyrus antiquorum_.

We go W.S.W., and a little before two o’clock W.N.W. One of the vessels chose another road to the left of us, and is separated an hour’s distance from us by the grass. About two o’clock, every tree (being the sign of firm ground) on the left also vanishes, and we see, therefore, nothing but _the sky_ and _grass sea_, surrounded or intersected by the arms of the Nile. We sail N.W. with two miles and a half rapidity of current, and probably in the larger central arm, although it is scarcely four hundred paces broad. We conjecture that the main stream is to the right side of the shore, from whence the vessel before mentioned has returned, fearing to lose us altogether from the horizon.

My servants had given some durra to the female slave of our first lieutenant, Abd-Elliab, to prepare merissa from, of which drink the rest of the crew partook. The Paradise-Stormer,—formerly, according to his own confession, a staunch toper,—had no sooner learned that his slave had set to make this liquor, than he ordered this unfortunate creature, who was kneeling just before the murhàka, and grinding the corn, so that the perspiration was pouring off in streams from the bared upper part of her body, to remain quiet where she was: whereupon she crossed her arms over her naked breast. At the very same moment he drew forth the kurbàsh from under his angereb, and swinging it backwards and forwards, brought it down with fearful violence upon her back. As he did not attend to my call from the cabin, but struck so furiously that her skin broke and blood poured down in streams, I jumped out and pulled him backwards by his angereb, so that his legs flew in the air. However, he sprang up again immediately, bounded to the side of the ship, and shouted, with a menacing countenance, “Effendi,” instead of calling me “Kawagi,” which is the usual title for a Frank and a merchant. I had scarcely, however, returned to my cabin, ere he seized his slave again to throw her overboard. I immediately caught up my double-barrel, stood in the doorway, and called out “Ana oedrup” (I’ll fire), whereupon he let her go, and said, with a pallid countenance, that she was his property and he could do as he liked with her. He at last suppressed his anger, when I explained to him that his own head as well as all his Harim, belonged to the Basha. Subsequently he ventured to complain of me to the commandant, who, knowing his malignant and hypocritical character, removed him to the little sandal, to the great delight of the whole crew. On our return to Khartùm he was cringing enough to want to kiss my hand and ask my pardon, (although he had become a captain in the Basha’s guard), because the Basha distinguished me.

A few days previously I had had an opportunity of gaining the affection and confidence of our black soldiers. One of them, a Tokruri or pilgrim from Darfùr had, in a quarrel with an Arab, drawn his knife and wounded him. He jumped overboard to drown himself, for he could not swim, and was just on the point of perishing when he drifted to our ship, where Feïzulla-Capitan no sooner perceived him than he sprang down from behind the helm and saved him, with the assistance of others. He was taken up and appeared nearly dead, and on intelligence being conveyed from the other vessels that he had murdered a Muslim, some of our people wished to throw him again immediately into the water. This, however, being prevented, they thought of making an attempt to resuscitate him, by standing him up on his head. I had him laid horizontally upon his side, and began to rub him with an old ferda belonging to one of my servants. For the moment no one would assist me, as he was an “Abit,” until I threatened the Captain that he should be made to pay the Basha for the loss of his soldiers. After repeated rubbing, the tokruri gave some signs of life, and they raised him half up, whilst his head still hung down. One of the sailors, who as a faki, pretended to be a sort of awakener of the dead, seized him from behind, under the arms, lifted him up a little, and let him, when he was brought into a sitting posture, fall thrice violently on his hinder end, whilst he repeated passages from the Koràn, and shouted in his ears, whereupon the tokruri answered with a similar prayer. Superstition goes so far here, that it is asserted such a pilgrim may be completely and thoroughly drowned, and yet retain the power of floating to any shore he pleases, and stand there alive again.

On the right we noticed N.W. by W., at a great distance, a considerable chain of mountains, to all appearance, over the invisible left shore. According to Selim-Capitan’s declaration this must be called Tickem. The crew even think that it is either the Tekeli or the Tira, which, however, is impossible, as we have long ago left them behind in the North. Both mountains are well known by our Kawass Màrian, and belong indeed to the mountain chain of Nuba. This mountain, however, is called, according to Màrian, _Morre_, and its high rocks are inhabited by a valiant, pagan, Negro race; they lie beyond the Nuba chain, and far isolated from it. Màrian had more than once travelled through the country, and had also been into these parts, when Sultan Fadl fled to them from Kordofàn, on the invasion of the Turks. Half-past three o’clock, W.N.W. Still in the grass-sea. We halted at sun-set, where the arm of the Nile goes from E. to W. The far distant and scarcely visible mountain lies now to the N. of us, and appears to be nearly twenty hours’ distant; this agrees with Màrian’s statement. Neither land nor tree to be seen, even from the mast; but back on the right shore, large clouds of smoke, which we have seen in many places throughout the day, and which I rather take to be signal-fires, than kindled for the purpose of driving away the gnats that first make their appearance towards evening.

_10th December._—A dead calm throughout the night. Gnats!!! No use creeping under the bedclothes, where the heat threatens to stifle me, compelled as I am, by their penetrating sting, to keep my clothes on. Leave only a hole to breathe at; in they rush, on the lips, into the nostrils and ears, and should one yawn, they squeeze themselves into the throat, and tickle us to coughing, causing us to suffer real torture, for with every respiration again a fresh swarm enters. They find their way to the most sensitive parts, creeping in like ants at every aperture. My bed was covered in the morning with thousands of these little tormenting spirits—compared with which the Egyptian plague is nothing—which I had crushed to death with the weight of my body, by continually rolling about.

As I had forgotten to take with me from Khartùm a mosquito-net, or gauze bed-curtains, for which I had no use there on account of the heat, to keep off these tormentors, there was nothing for it but submission. Neither had I thought of leather gloves, unbearable in the hot climate here, but which would have been at this moment of essential advantage, for I was not only obliged to have a servant before me at supper-time, waving a large fan, made of ostrich-feathers, under my nose, so that it was necessary to watch the time for seizing and conveying the food to my mouth, but I could not even smoke my pipe in peace, though keeping my hands wrapt in my woollen Burnus, for the gnats not only stung through it, but even crept up under it from the ground. The blacks and coloured men were equally ill-treated by these hungry and impudent guests; and all night long might be heard the word “Bauda,” furious abuse against them, and flappings of ferdas to keep them off; but in spite of this, the face and body were as if bestudded, and swollen up with boils. The Baudas resemble our long-legged gnats, although their proboscis, with which they bore through a triple fold of strong linen, appears to me longer. Their head is blue; the back dun-coloured, and their legs are covered with white specks, like small pearls. Another kind has shorter and stronger legs, a thicker body, of a brown-colour, with a red head and iris-hued posteriors.

The crew are quite wearied from sleepless nights, and rowing must be given up if the calm continues, although we find ourselves in a canal whose water propels us so little that we do not cast anchor. Here I got a specimen of the gigantic rush (_papyrus antiquus_) before mentioned. The stalk is prismatic, somewhat rounded, however, on one side; it runs in a conical form, to the length of from ten to twelve feet, and bears on the top a corolla like a tuft of reeds, the ray-formed edges of which branch out, and are more than a span long: the greatest thickness of the stem is one inch and a half, and never less than half an inch thick, and under the green rind there is a strong pith. Subsequently, however, I saw this papyrus, which our Arabs were not acquainted with, from fifteen to twenty feet long, and two inches thick, so that the longer reeds on the top shot forth from their little clusters of flowers and seeds, five to six new spikes, the length of a span. The _Ambak_ was _known_ to the old Egyptians; there is no doubt, therefore, that it, as well as this rush, was split, glued to one another, and used for a writing material, because it afforded the advantage of a greater extent of surface.

We row again a little, and wait till ten o’clock for Hüssein Aga’s clumsy kaiàss, although a slight N.E. wind has set in. We then sail N.W. and make two miles and a half. At three o’clock we go W.S.W. slowly into the great lake, wherein the Gazelle river (Bahr el Gasáll) disembogues itself. This river is said to flow here from the country of the Magrabis (Berbers), as some soldiers affirmed, who had served under Mustapha Bey, and pretended to have pressed forward to its shores. Touching this lake and the river, the name of which we could not learn, for its borders are entirely covered with reeds, and therefore cannot be inhabited, the declaration of the soldiers was only a confirmation of what Mustapha Bey told me in Khartùm. On account of the dead calm, we halt on the right reedy shore of the stream, in the lake itself, beyond which we do not yet distinguish land, any more than to the left. Over a yellowish tract, there, which the water may have left, like an island, green grass and the ascending smoke, announcing human life, shew themselves again and denote a firm shore. The lake may be from eighteen to twenty sea miles square.

In the evening, the smoke appeared like long-extended peculiar fireworks, rising equally high; and there was no doubt that this was ignited high grass, a sight which, from Sennaar to this place, was no longer new to me. The Gazelle river glimmered far beyond, the grasses impeding its mouth; and I distinguished plainly, from the elevated poop, that it emptied itself into two arms, S.W. by W. and S.W., forming a delta, obtuse at the top. My servant, who was at the mast-head, confirmed me in the opinion of this more extensive direction, by stretching out his arm to that region.

Dead fish, of the species called garmùt (_Heterobranchus, bidorsalis Geoff._), real monsters in size, had already previously floated towards us; they were said to have been harpooned by the inhabitants of the shore, as very probably was the case. Our angling, however, procured us few or no fish. It was not so much the north wind, as the abundance of food brought by the inundation, that kept them away from our bait.

We had already seen and caught several snakes, and twice I saw how this reptile let itself be carried by the stream, coiling itself up and holding its head above water. Here a small blackish snake appeared, before which we threw a piece of wood, when it became irritated, and drove repeatedly against our vessel, although we thrust at it with poles. The first-named were mostly those I had already seen and made a collection of in Taka—the Naja Haje (Coluber Haje Hasslq.) Vipera Cerastes Daud, Python Subae, &c. The large snakes were generally called Assala, and the small ones sometimes _Hannesh_ and _Debib_, and sometimes _Dabàhn_. It is only the viper that has the name of Haigi among these people as its peculiar one. We had seen here and there in these marshes serpents which might be described as equal in bulk to a moderate tree. I had in Taka heard a similar comparison from Sheikhs whose word could be relied on; and also that the snakes were of such a size that they could easily carry a man from his angereb, and swallow him very comfortably.

I remarked in the reeds many ant-hills, such as are seen in Taka; they were eight to ten feet high, but whether inhabited or not I cannot say. If they were so, their height might be explained by the supposition that the insects sought to protect themselves in their upper cells from the high water; that is, if the Nile did not formerly make another bend here, so as not to overflow this marsh-land. Besides, I had already had the opportunity of observing these termites and their ingenious strongholds, whereby I convinced myself that they are not very much afraid of the water; but, on the contrary, they descend deep into the earth, to fetch up damp soil, in order to give a smooth surface to the apparent labyrinth of their cells, which, in the lower part of their habitations, are as thick as one’s fist. These little whitish insects are also themselves full of water, and burst as soon as they are touched. These ants are called arda. They will perforate in one night, from the bottom to the top, a trunk filled with clothes, if it is not placed upon a _stone_; for they dread daylight, and are afraid to climb up stones on the earth.

Owing to the ants, we, towards evening, left the shore, and anchored in the middle of the lake, which has a greater breadth in the direction of the west, and where only a few ants shewed themselves, and these, from the weight of the blood they had sucked in, were not able to fly away from the reeds, and had stuck to the ship. We remarked also a great number of glowworms among the reeds. Suliman Kashef sent me the sandal, and I repaired with Feïzulla Capitan to him.

Every one was overjoyed at escaping from the gnats. The sailors swam here and there, but desisted from this vocation when crocodiles appeared in our neighbourhood. There was mad shouting and singing, and the Hippopotami appeared indignant at this noise, for they bellowed in opposition on all sides. Suliman Kashef ordered his men to squat down before the cabin, and sing. Several Arabic songs were chanted, such as that of the Bedoaui (Bedouins), in which there is really a pretty _refrain_. “La Volèt, el Juhm” (O youth the day). The variation of “l’Eli, l’eli” (the night, the night), being in trioles, is adapted to very soft modulations, and is introduced as a melody, awakening the feelings in the same manner as the modern Greek “Mana” (composed from the Turkish “Amàhn,” and denoting a cry for mercy). It is not, however, executed in the horrible and purely barbarian manner of the so-called Hellenes. They had also satirical songs on Melek Kambal and Ahmed Basha: these, however, they were not allowed to sing to the end. Suliman Kashef related anecdotes of his former journeys, and did not seem to think it impossible to overthrow and supplant his friend and countryman Ahmed Basha. He had an old sailor as a jester or Dèli on board, who was obliged to make jokes before the whole crew, and therefore was called Abu Hashis, which means a man who drinks a decoction made of hemp, having the same effect as opium, and who plays the buffoon.

Suliman Kashef was very much excited by the liquor. He fired in the air, or at the hippopotami emerging from the water, and had his gun continually loaded. It was really wonderful to see these animals, bellowing on all sides, as if challenging him to the combat. Their time of coition appeared, however, to have set in, and these fearful trombone sounds might have pertained to the period of rutting. Towards evening we had also seen numerous fish bustling about amid the reeds, and heard them the whole night springing up, without thinking of catching them, because they are considered unclean in the coition-season by our Turks and Arabs. A number of green islands, worn off by the floating water colossus from the marshy shore, being driven by the wind, floated by us, and made us believe that we were sailing. There was such a shouting of bad witticisms from the jesters privileged here, that we could not help laughing. If our Abu Hashis failed in his tropes, he was unanimously called “Abu! abu!” and if the chief Abu Hashis of Suliman Kashef was not quiet at this, and went on to make fun of the others with his stentorian voice, he was asked what his Harim consisted of, at which question he always became quiet, not wishing to joke on such a subject.

This vast water-basin had, some two hundred paces from the Nile, which passes through on the east side, only one fathom and a half in depth, the latter having three fathoms and a half, and a current of a quarter of a mile. The latitude here was given by Selim Capitan as 9° 16′, and 28° 55′ east longitude from Paris. I hear that, in the preceding year, they sailed round the mouth of the Gazelle river for two days, being unable to enter it by reason of the reeds. I did not grudge the trouble of asking a question twenty times; and at last, I learned from our Iengäh that the head of the river is called in his country Iak, although he refused to give me the name of his abode or of the capital or city.

I could extract equally as little information from him about his religion; yet these people must be, as Professor Ehrenberg, who had a Iengäh as a servant, asserts, worshippers of the moon. The moon is generally more or less an object of veneration in these hot countries. The distinctive characteristics of the Iengäh nation consist of a cross incision immediately over the eyebrows as far as the temples, and over this, several vertical cuts close to one another, an inch in length. The manner of tattooing amongst them consists in slitting or cutting open the skin, the scars on which protrude like basso-relievos. The dignity of Sultan and Sheikh is hereditary. It almost seems to me that Marian is also unwilling to give information concerning his Nuba, since I shewed him a map of his country. The offer I made him to solicit the Basha to promote him to the rank of an officer, and to send him back into his own country to enlist troops, seemed very agreeable to him, and easy to be accomplished, for his countrymen must and would willingly follow him, because the Basha pays well. The Basha subsequently promoted him to the rank of a lieutenant, but thought it somewhat hazardous to raise a regiment of Nuba negroes, since he must have given the supreme command to this man as their native Mak or King; although he values the slaves from this country more than all the others, and keeps many of them on his estate, whom he rewards with pretty wives.

_12th December._—Before sunrise this morning we left the Lake, sailed with a faint N.E. wind a short tract S.W., and then W. by S., with two miles rapidity of current, into a canal, surrounded by a border of reeds on both sides, and 100 to 150 paces broad. High reeds, but more low ones, water couch-grass and narrow grass, the pale-green aquatic plant, the lilac convolvulus, moss, water-thistles, plants like nettles and hemp, formed on the right and left a soft green mixture, upon which groups of the yellow-flowing ambak-tree rose, and which itself was partly hung round with luxuriant creepers, covered with large cup-like flowers, of a deep yellow colour. To my sorrow, I see that my collection of plants, in spite of my great care, has commenced the fermenting process, leaving but little hope of preserving any of them, for these children of the marshes speedily rot. I am especially grieved about the white lotus-flowers, which I have not seen for some days; as well as for the Nymphæa cærulea, which do not appear at all.

From W. by S.; soon again to S.W. by S.; and at nine o’clock, S.W.—four miles. The ambaks rising from the immeasurable expanse of reed-grass, at times deluded us into the belief that they were trees of distant shores. High reeds are no longer to be seen, and even that reed-grass appears to be lost here, but, instead of it, luxuriant long grass, two to three feet high, sprouts out of the water.

Eleven o’clock, S.W. by S.—two miles. Towards S. we observe isolated trees, and the tops of dwellings, in the country of the Nuèhrs, where soon afterwards smoke ascends,—a sign that they see our masts, although they are an hour distant from us. The channel is again about 300 paces broad. There is everlasting strife between the Egyptian sailors and the few Egyptian soldiers, who shew, even here, the quarrelsome nature of the Fellàhs. Feïzulla Capitan is very indifferent to it; a thorough slave to his crew and to his passions; yet, at times he makes them tow, or orders the braggarts to be gagged by a piece of wood fastened behind the ear, which they are obliged to take in their mouths; but this is done, however, more to please himself, and to make the crew laugh, than to acquire respect by good sound reprimands. Where a laudable zeal is displayed on no side, this apathy appears to me, generally, to promise us very little honour in the conclusion of our expedition; even Arnaud testifies but little pleasure at the prospect of a further advance. Selim Capitan is afraid of the natives, and Suliman Kashef is the only one from whose ambition and courage I have anything to expect. The Frenchmen continue to have their windows covered, that, forsooth, they may not see the melancholy, monotonous country. Mutually cool towards one another, they are continually opening collections of anecdotes, and comic publications, to fill up the gaps in their insipid conversation. Arnaud seems to look upon Selim Capitan as the abler man, for he consults him, and watches the chronometer, whilst the latter handles the instruments.

At noon, W. by W., and at one o’clock S. Towards the east, we see the vessels that have remained behind, in the extensive sea of reeds, and we likewise, for the first time, rightly remark the winding of this passage. The gigantic rush shews itself here and there like little pine-forests; also isolated parcels of high reeds over the old dry low reeds, which spring forth again fresh from their stalks. The spikes of the grass are here cropped, and before us there rises an enormous swarm of locusts, who move up the river. These may be, for the moment, welcome food to the fish mostly seen here, which are wide-mouthed, but otherwise similar to an eel (_Clarias anguillaris_). All those that we caught, had locusts in their belly. The wind, as is usual about noon, has almost entirely slackened; the crew row, keeping time with songs to their oars, S.W. by S. About three o’clock, we halt at the right shore of the reeds, which are dry here, although on the right they are of a soft green. Now I see that we must not be deceived by the yellow tracts, with the belief that firm ground exists there, for the grasses here, standing in the water, are also dry.

Although the thermometer, as yesterday, is only 28°, yet it feels, when the dead calm sets in, as close and confined as in Khartùm, with a heat of 42°, to which, perhaps, the exhalations from the marshes may mostly contribute. An unusual perspiration has not only made its appearance upon me, but even the crew, especially the rowers, are dripping, as if with water. About nine o’clock in the evening, we cast anchor in a depth of two fathoms, and half a mile current.

I had resigned to Feïzulla Capitan the pleasure of preparing the bill of fare for us, and therefore there was so much cooked (“Alla Kerim”), that not only he, but half the crew, were feasted. The Kurd had previously withdrawn himself from this community; and I found it advisable, as I had been robbed by his people into the bargain, to be economical with my provisions, in order that they might last to the end of the voyage, giving my servant, Sate Mahommed, from Mahass, the most necessary directions for cooking.

_13th December._—If a regular visitation of gnats took place three days ago, it was nothing to be compared with that of yesterday evening. Even this morning, when the sun had risen, we had no rest; it was impossible for me to write even if my head had been less confused, after such a painful night. This was the _smaller_ species, not having legs, with spots like pearls. Neither fans, nor entire masses of tobacco, which we kindled on an iron platter, keep these little beasts away from us.

Millions of glowworms fluttered around in the rushes and ambaks, accompanied by the shrill cry of locusts. The croaking, however, of frogs was wanting, for they do not appear to be forthcoming here. A little before sunrise, we again rowed towards the west; and the whole crew, though exhausted, really used their utmost endeavours to get away from this region. We advanced, however, but slowly, for the current had become a little stronger. About eight o’clock, to our great delight, a strong N.E. wind set in, and we made four miles. The horizon was covered, towards the right shore, from E. to S., with tokuls, and there was a considerable village at the point where the river approaches from E. and E.S.E. Unfortunately we are obliged to wait for the vessels left behind; and this is so much the more to be regretted because the strong north winds seem altogether to be lost here. We are only separated from this shore by a few reeds, but prevented from landing, as the water reaches far above a man’s head. Low bushes of mimosas stand there upon dry ground, scarcely elevated above the surface of the Nile, but rising, however somewhat towards a village in which a tokul is distinguished, from its unusual size. The little sandal has, nevertheless, discovered a narrow road, made by the natives, or by the large aquatic animals to the land, and brings off with it twenty-five sheep, which it has procured on shore.

The inhabitants of this village were harshly used by the former expedition. At that time they brought four oxen as a present, and gave a sheep to Thibaut, who, because it was somewhat swollen, took it to be poisoned. This circumstance was sufficient cause to incite the crew to go ashore, to surround the village on all sides, and to shoot down, in a shameful manner, the Sheikh, and several others who had fled with him into the neighbouring marshes. Thibaut made a very pretty booty here, consisting, amongst other things, of a square quiver, somewhat curved at the top, altogether of antique form; besides large felt caps, very similar to the ancient Egyptian caps of the priests, high and obtuse in front; bread collars for bulls, set round with iron spindle-shaped ornaments, which were hung up in the great tokul, and may have been hung therefore round their Apis, as signs of adoration or affection, only on certain festive occasions.

In the neighbourhood, we saw far and wide, towards the left side of the village, the smoke assume a magnificent form. We see from the deck flames moving towards us, the wind being favourable, in long battle array, and steam and black ashes spread near us, apparently arising from the dry grass. Thousands of birds driven thence swarm in the air around the vessels. A number of turtle-doves remain quite innocently in our neighbourhood, perched on the ambak-bushes. It may indeed be called fortunate that the wood there was low and generally thin, for, had it been otherwise, this conflagration, probably caused by the frightened inhabitants, might easily have set the sails on fire. The fatalism, however, of the Turks causes us to squat in the very same place till about sunset, in order to fill our ships again with gnats, although we see the vessels, left behind, coming at a distance. The river winds here from E.S.E. to S.S.W. At last they apply themselves to their oars, but we gain very little, for the current amounts to more than one mile, and the wind, which had set in over night, holds scarcely on for a moment.

_14th December._—After a restless night, we did not put ourselves in motion this morning till an hour after sunrise. I see that we have scarcely advanced this night two miles, calculating from the trees standing towards N.E., behind us, which I remarked yesterday at the village of the Nuèhrs, who, indeed, had fled from us behind the burning wood. We sail slowly to the west, and we should scarcely distinguish the right shore, if some tokul-tops were not seen peeping out at a distance of an hour and a half. From want of wind we halt for a time, and sail then with the shifting N.E. wind, further westward, till we go, at ten o’clock, S.W., and make two miles. At eleven o’clock the wind becomes so strong that we fly by, as it were, the reeds close at hand, and for the first time make six miles. We went here W.S.W.

The right shore was marked out by three or four large trees standing at equal distance from each other, like ancient monuments of the victory gained here with difficulty over the moist element. Twelve o’clock, N.W. by N., four miles: again sky, water, and reeds; in the latter, solitary bunches of ambaks and high reeds. Soon we go gradually S.W. by S., and the stream, although it is only some 200 or 250 paces broad, appears not to have, near this part, any considerable arms, as none such are visible from the mast-head. From this reason the greater current is explained. The white river traverses these reed-lakes in meandering windings, and river buffaloes can break any other road for themselves in this shoreless expanse. The thermometer shews at three o’clock 28°, at noon 25°, and this morning at sunrise 20° Reaumur. It is now nearly a dead calm, and we are scarcely able to move from N.W. to S.W.

My servant Fadl informs me from the mast, that he sees land, indeed, behind us; but at the side, and before us, nothing but gesch (reeds or grass). The great mass of water of the white stream so suddenly making its appearance, is explained partly from this long lake (the breadth of which cannot be determined from the ship without an air-balloon), forming a great basin. This basin (after the reed or marsh-ground of its flat edge being scarcely superficially dried, is in some degree saturated) collects immediately the water streaming from above, below, and the sides, until, becoming a mass, it surmounts its natural flood-gates, as these machadas may be called, like a breach of a dike.

At four o’clock the cry is “El hauer galàss” (the wind has ceased), and we halt on the right shore of the reeds, where another dreadful night of gnats awaits us. Where it has been possible, and I have thought of it at the moment, I have planted date-stones, or thrown them, when passing by, on the inundated shores; for this beneficial tree never presents itself, and may, indeed, never thrive here again.

_15th December._—We remained yesterday evening actually till after sunset in the reeds, and our vessel was full of musquitos. I mentioned previously these insects as being of two distinct species, and not as male and female. I am confirmed in my former opinion; for in the nights of the 12th and 13th December the smaller kind was so prevalent, that I could only find, after much searching, some bodies of the pearled long-legs on my bed. We therefore suffered again from the usual plague from evening to this morning at eight o’clock, although we had left the reeds. The river had here three fathoms and a quarter in depth, and a rapidity of about one mile and a quarter. We waited this morning for the kaiass, left behind as usual, when it was rowed, owing to its large, clumsy oars; and being a broad-built ship of burden, it had cost us already a pretty time during our voyage. It was not till half-past eight o’clock that a slight east wind set in, and we move slowly on towards S.W., again to W.S.W. after a quarter of an hour, and at nine o’clock to the S., and make two miles.

We remark, on the whole, few land-birds; however, we have seen various species of storks, among which was one of a moderate size, unknown to our crew, with a dark-red back shield. We notice pelicans here and there, and I think what a feast these catchers of fish must have when the Nile, in the dry season, partly deserts the reeds wherein we have observed scarcely any fish but of one species, with flat heads, striped. I had seen already here a dark-brown species of swallow, about twice the size of our house-swallow, and remarked their very short legs, which prevent them from soaring again in the air when they have fallen down in short grass, similar to what I saw in Taka. At ten o’clock we make three miles, and at eleven o’clock four miles, for the east wind was blowing fresh, and we sail towards S.S.E.

The river has resumed its former breadth of some three hundred paces, and the vessels run against one another, according to the dear old custom, always breaking something or getting stuck together. Our captain, nevertheless, does not fall into a passion: the vessel may crack and shake for what he cares; for his sewing-needle appears to him of more importance, and he handles it with an air of determination, as if all his work must be done within the very next hour. Every one wishes to avail himself of the wind; consequently we rush by on reeds, or right into them, and out then pours a myriad of gnats like clouds.

We ought to have the log continually in our hands, with these eternal windings of the river, as the vessel more or less sails according to the ever varying stream, and with the very same winds. Even the most detailed chart can afford but little to be relied upon in such a circular dance of the stream, although the engineer may confine himself to assume as the direction of the course of the river, not the real shores, but the ephemeral borders of reeds. At noon E.S.E., when the wind, passing over into N.E., is somewhat contrary, if the stream does not soon make again another bend. We lend a helping hand with oars to the sails, and the river winds again on the right towards south. Low reeds with tufts of high reeds; little woods of these large crown or paper rushes, and tracts of ambaks.

As the river appeared for a time to hold on its course to the south, being exceedingly weary after these sleepless nights, and not able longer to keep my eyes open, I sank back as it were involuntarily upon my bed, but told my men, however, to wake me without mercy, when the river took another direction. We remained till Asser (three o’clock in the afternoon), in a southern direction, when, covered with perspiration, I awoke of myself, for the cooling N.E. wind had subsided, as usual, after mid-day, and was entirely stagnant. I had dreamt of being very comfortably on my travels in Germany with my brother; and this dream had the effect of consoling me in this miserable position, and of making me look forward with joy to the future. During my sleep they had seen a swimming-bird, said to be as large as a young camel, with a straight beak like a pelican, but no crop under it: they had not shot it, lest they should awake me, and because they thought that this bird, unknown to them, would appear again. Whoever knows the manner of comparing things in this country, will know also how to appreciate the size of this bird.

We lie on the reeds, wait for the ships tarrying behind, and as usual delay to take to the middle of the river, till all the holds of the vessel are full of gnats. At the distance of about an hour we see to the right shore the margin of firm land with tokul-tops, whilst the grass-sea extends still to the other side, upon which, however, in the far distance clouds of smoke ascend. The country here may, on the whole, lie lower, whereby the objects upon it remain under the horizon.

_16th December._—The sun ascends, and we sail slowly towards it with a faint N.E. wind. I drew two thin cowls, which I had had made in Taka as a protection against the sun, over my face, to be free at least from gnats at the sides, leaving just room enough in the front for my eyes and pipe. These insects torment us up to nine o’clock, morning: at night they are always singing and buzzing, and they have even contrived, this evening, to pierce through to the fleshy part of my face. The skin on the parts stung by them, principally the hands and feet, begins to itch so that one could scratch it to pieces.

We soon go S.E., and endless swarms of swimming birds come to meet us, and appear to fly down with the river. The pelicans also follow the very same direction, but rest every moment upon the water. It appears that these birds are fonder of live fish, and leave the dead ones to birds of prey, and on that account seek for the inundated parts of the lower course of the stream. In a very short time we go S.W., but immediately again, at eight o’clock, S.E. The wind passes over to the E. in order to gain strength. Like yesterday afternoon, the right shore, from N.E. to S.E., is now covered with tokul-tops, partly collected together as villages, partly lying singly on the line of the horizon, upon which also some dhellèb-palms may be remarked.

To follow the shore of the river, and to define the limits of the bed of the White Stream, over which it here and there rolls, the principal thing would be to follow the line of the villages and old trees, for these determine the peculiar marks of high water, elevated by the river itself. From this high water we might, perhaps, be able to ascertain the mean breadth of the river. But such a difficult journey by land will be certainly, for a long time, an intricate problem. The Turks themselves have also here, without perhaps wishing it, failed in the first impression; so that from “children of heaven” they have become “white devils,” in the eyes of the people. Therefore we see on every side pillars of smoke ascending, which are to be considered as signals of approaching danger, according to the statement of our heroes; whilst the kindled reed-straw, or the high grass of the savannah prairies, spreads its smoke _horizontally_. Innumerable birds are perched round, in the ambaks; among them a number of turtle-doves are cooing very peaceably, reminding me more of the great Campo in Constantinople than of the lower shores of the Nile.

Ten o’clock. Fadl told me, from the mast, that firm land was approaching the shore from both sides. It was not long before we perceived, whilst making three miles’ course, some tokuls also on the left shore, part of them appearing to be of peculiar size. We see also, in the middle of the reeds, on small eminences, two such huts, said to serve fishermen for temporary abodes. Four men and a woman make signs, or greet us, by raising up their arms high in the air; but even with the best will, we are not able to force our way to them, although they may have something we could pillage. Nevertheless, the right shore retreats again, and we distinguish only the palms of the last-mentioned village.

We continue S.S.E., and as the right shore goes back towards S.E., the left shore approaches nearer with S.W. by S. The stream is now more than 400 paces broad; its water is still very dark, and the broad reeds, with the other aquatic plants, present such a verdant appearance, that it is quite refreshing; and they shoot forth with such vigour, that we imagine we see them growing. It is eleven o’clock. The N.E. wind has again slackened. Our direction is S.E. The water is stagnant in the reeds, not only shut out by them from the current, but also kept back from the stream, which, notwithstanding the narrowness of its bed, has only one mile in rapidity. An influx of this stagnant water into the narrow river-bed can only, therefore, take place according to the proportion in which the stream gradually runs off, and is absorbed into this, its bed.

The Frenchmen pretend, when they return from the mast, to adjust the genuine river-bed, but they will not believe that the water has fallen so that one cannot see over the reeds and the marsh-trees. The company was to have dined with us, but Feïzulla Capitan, who had undertaken to invite the others, had gone first with the sandal to Suliman Kashef, and had there caroused to such excess that he even forgot to invite Suliman himself. Yet, this morning, he thought that he had not only invited him, but also Selim Capitan and the Frenchmen. We made, therefore, the necessary provision for this repast, and waited for the vessels preceding us to bring up; until I heard at last from Selim Capitan as he passed us, that Feïzulla had not been to him.

The latitude yesterday was 8° 36′ 30″, and to-day, 8° 36′. We remained generally, with small declinations, in the south-easterly direction. The hygrometer indicated at three o’clock 40′, and after five o’clock 50′, of atmospheric moisture, whilst in the night it had 70′ to 80′. The dew constantly shews itself first towards morning, and the carpet lying upon the deck is as wet as if it had been dipped in water. The cheerful verdure is explained from this cause, yet it will be extremely monotonous if the same vegetation continues for any distance. We supped together in our vessel, and the Russian renegade, Captain Selim Aga, shewed his usual good scent, and likewise appeared. We were merry, and had two Abu Hashis to contend in witticisms; during which they wished each other to be troubled with all the gnats, and kept up a continual scoffing.