CHAPTER XI.

NARROW ESCAPE FROM CROCODILES. — ILLNESS OF THE AUTHOR. — DESCRIPTION OF THE ELEPHANT-TREE. — CUSTOM OF MAKING BEDS ON ASHES VERY ANCIENT. — SULIMAN KASHEF SHOOTS A CROCODILE. — STRONG SMELL OF MUSK FROM THESE ANIMALS. — THE TRIBE OF THE ELLIÀBS. — WAR DANCES. — CHARGE AGAINST ARNAUD. — INJURY TO VESSELS BY HIPPOPOTAMI. — SULIMAN KASHEF’S CIRCASSIAN SLAVE. — CULTIVATED LAND. — THE FELATI. — APPEARANCE OF A MOUNTAIN. — TRIBE OF THE TSHISÈRRS. — STRATA OF THE SHORE. — RICINUS PLANTS. — FOUR LOWER INCISORS WANTING TO THE NATIVES ON THE SHORES OF THE WHITE NILE. — AGILITY AND STRENGTH OF THE NEGROES. — MORE MOUNTAINS APPEAR.

10th January.—Towed to S.E., and, looking back from the mast, two more villages are visible. On the right shore, a gohr of one hundred paces broad, projects inland towards N.E. A large village before us on the same side, surrounded with regular plantations of tobacco, cotton, creeping beans, and simsim; domestic fowls are also running about here. We halt soon afterwards at the right shore, where a village, considerable in length, extends from E. to E.S.E. along the shore. Two small tokul villages also on the left side. At half past eight o’clock we bear off again, and at nine we go S.S.E., having cultivated places at our side; and at ten o’clock towards S. On the right shore a gohr of thirty paces in breadth to N.E.; we also remark dome-palms again. Half past ten o’clock, S.E. by S. The forest, extending behind the doum-palms to within fifty and a hundred paces of the shore, appears also in the neighbourhood, and looks well covered and inviting to the chase. The broad river is so shallow here that we are obliged to stop in the centre of it, with our ships still heavily laden, whilst the men towing wade in the water; they often disappear altogether in the deep, when we come to these numerous shallows, and emerge again like ducks. There are many snakes in the water here; no one, however, was bitten by them. The crocodiles are again very frequently met with in the river, for they have deserted the pools and lakes.

_11th January._—I have fortunately overcome a violent attack of illness which overtook me yesterday evening. Such a faintness seized me in my excursion yesterday, that I was obliged to sit down. I slept or lay in a swoon; I know not which. I awoke when it was already dark. A shot was fired near me; I tried to answer, but my gun flashed in the pan; for I had fired it off in a half unconscious state, to call for assistance. I dragged myself in the direction of the shot, and worked through the bushes to the shore, in order to walk more comfortably on the sand. At last I had the stream before me: on my left I saw the fires near the ships; but, by heavens! I was struck with terror, for there was the horrible sight of more than twenty crocodiles a few paces before me on the light sand. I had really commenced to count the beasts; but did not, however, remain long in bivio Herculis, for they began to move, scenting human flesh. I hastened back into the bushes, plunged into the holes hollowed out by water, which I had previously tried to avoid, and arrived without any accident close to the ships. I heard voices behind me, and recognised my servants, who were in search of me. They were mourning and reproaching themselves for having left me. Sale set up a loud howl, because he thought I was devoured by the crocodiles. They found me on the ground; they had also been pursued by the beasts. What a poor creature a sick man is! I hear now, for my consolation, that we had remained in the same place where we halted yesterday before noon, towards S.S.E., owing to the great exhaustion of the crew, and want of wood.

About eleven o’clock at night I began to rave, followed, from all external symptoms, by a kind of cholera morbus. This attack must have been dreadful, according to the description of Feïzulla Capitan, who bravely remained by my side, and shewed that he really has a heart, as I had seen already when he saved the Tokruri. Although exhausted, I now find myself tolerably well. We have a small reed-island at our side: the stream on the right and left is ornamented with a forest, assuming here quite a different character from the uniformity we have seen in the country of the Shilluks.

The earlier or spring mimosas were entirely obscured by other trees with dense foliage; the copsewood, also, has taken another form. The sun had not yet risen; but I could no longer contain myself, and therefore landed from the vessel. If I had, last night, given up the plan of travelling through Africa to the Atlantic Ocean, to-day I was seized with the old humour and desire when I saw this splendid woody region extending around me. Among the trees the shudder el fill (elephant-tree), or medengàn el fill, was distinguished above all the others. The beautiful clusters of flowers attain the length of from five to five feet and a half; they are similar to the yellow lily, but considerably larger, and somewhat curved on one side, like the nape-piece of a helmet. Forty or fifty of these lilies, shining magnificently, hang on one string; only half of them, however, are in flower, whilst the other half are budding. The fruit, similar in appearance to a thick grey-green cucumber, was already one foot and a half long, and half a foot thick. When cut open, it is very like the medengàn, called melinsanes in Greece, and cazzi greci in Trieste. The bark of the tree is light and smooth; the branches are a little twisted like those of the walnut-tree, to which it is akin in its digitate though darker leaves, and may perhaps surpass it in height. The elephant is said to be very fond of these medengàns, although they seem uneatable to all other creatures. Whether this be the Adansonia or monkey’s-bread-tree I venture not to decide. We shot down several of the fruits, being obliged to pierce through the upper part of the stalk, which is the thickness of a finger, with a bullet.

Eight o’clock.—We have felled wood, brought it on board, and continue our voyage by towing. The river soon forms an angle from S.S.E. to W.S.W. but it is only to go immediately again to S.S.E. As we remarked on the shore, the water now visibly falls. Selim Capitan and Arnaud cannot conceal their fear at having to surmount these obstacles, so as not to be devoured by the natives on our return voyage, which they would rather now commence. Such shallows are certainly disagreeable; but as they merely occupy certain tracts, it is only necessary, surely, to leave behind a portion of the freight on the other vessels, and to fetch them afterwards by degrees: this is evident, even to the commander. Sandbanks stretch from hence to the middle of the river. At nine o’clock to S.; on the left an island. The wood continues cheerfully on the right shore; on the left, however, it has disappeared. Half-past nine o’clock, S.S.W., and on the left a village.

The shores are strata of mixed humus, and the sand layer is quite clear. I remarked on the lower margin of a steep and broken shore a stratum of burnt reeds, and the intersection of a large hill of ashes, which proves clearly, like the tombs in the rocks of Silsili, in Egypt, that the stream here also sunk deeper formerly. The custom of making beds on the ashes is, therefore, very ancient, and the burning of the reeds is compelled by necessity. We halt near a village of about forty tokuls, and again wait for meat. There were only a few people to be seen, who stood, or squatted there quietly: at last they collected together, and formed a large column. Stretching up their hands in the air, holding a reed, or an ambak-tree, which is as light as a cork, though it looks like a fearful club, they made short quick marches up and down, and a sudden simultaneous facing about, in honour of us. The women ran behind this chorus, shouting and screaming as in Germany.

About eleven o’clock we set out to S.W. by S. A gohr cuts off an island equally narrow, overgrown with grass, at our left hand. At the head of the little island the river winds to S. On the right here is a pastoral village. At twelve o’clock, S.E. by E., and round the left by S.E. The north-east wind freshens a little, and we go without libàhn, if not quicker, yet more comfortably. A large semicircle is formed, and we go, at half-past twelve o’clock, from an easterly direction again to S.W. On the left shore, a troop of some twenty negroes squat, holding cows and calves for us by a cord. Beads are dear to them above everything. These blameless Ethiopians will not even receive gold and silver, the chimerical value of which they know not; and it is only stupidity that laughs at them in pity.

From the mast:—two pastoral villages behind the right shore; four more farther on, before the Haba, which forms a semicircle. The forest makes its appearance again before us, on both sides of the river. The latter separates into two arms, each having directly about two hundred paces in breadth; these form a little island, which we leave at our right side. The island is full of high sprouting plants and vegetables, between blooming shrubs. At one o’clock we arrive S.E. by E., and with E. to the point of the island. On the precipitous shores stand the different kinds of trees; among them the doum-palms, poison, and elephant-trees, are particularly distinguished, in picturesque confusion.

The left shore forms here at the corner, where the river winds S.W., a strip of sand, cutting into the river-bed, here only about one hundred and fifty paces broad, and on account of this we are obliged to sail close to the right shore. However, the river increased again immediately to S. W., up to three hundred paces in breadth. On the right also the Haba approaches, having but few trees, but before us it is well covered, and extends to the border of the stream itself. Five miserable tokuls stand under a large shady tree, which imparts a peculiar effect to the spot by its unusual masses of shade in this land of the sun. Some natives are sitting quietly under it, and seem to be fishermen. Two o’clock, S.S.E. We have the point of an island covered with reeds, in the middle of the river. Although I dread the mid-day sun after yesterday’s attack, which reminds me of a similar one in Taka, yet I venture upon deck, and see an island on the left. The arm embracing it has already shrunk to a large pool, and behind are the old or high shores, overlaid by sloping, grass-covered rubbish, as with a green mat. Where these shores formerly fell away steep into the water, they were twenty feet high, and were still raised in a similar angle towards the interior. The shores of the island are also about eight feet high, and I can easily calculate this, the shores being so close, for we have a plumb-line on board.

At three o’clock we advance close to the left shore, to let the men dine, for we have only laid aside the rope for a very short time, in consequence of the slack wind. The river becomes narrow at the corner, S.S.E., where it turns to the right. I also remark here again one of those gohrs, which, being from two to three feet high, conduct the high water, as canals, over the present water-mark, through the low country, because the river-bed is clearly too narrow—its shores being elevated here on both sides to two gradations—to carry away the whole mass of the White Stream, at the time of its inundation. We have also again the pleasing sight of the herds going to the river, over the ridge of sand, which must be considered at these high shores, as a road to the water. Eight white, well-fed calves, being the last, went away, to my astonishment, unmolested, our men not taking it into their heads to seize them. There is no leaving off at noon to dine, but one-half of the crew eats whilst the other tows the ship. About three o’clock we work away over the shallows, and at last the temptation cannot be resisted of taking some calves on board.

Four o’clock. We have the sand-banks behind us, to our good fortune, and we go S.S.W. The Haba close on the right shore, where we noticed six summer-houses and a gohr, eight feet above the water, is now separated from us about two hundred paces by a low country exposed to the inundations. The left old shore, with its generally scanty wood, has drawn close to the river itself, and is only ten to twelve feet high. Now, perhaps, the river will remain enclosed in the very narrow limits of the old shores, and not make these arbitrary serpentine windings, giving the result of a vast development of streams, but placing an incredible obstacle in the road to our pressing forward to the sources of the Nile themselves. We land at five o’clock, even before sun-set, on the left shore, for the men can go on no more, having laboured the whole day at the libàhn; the hoisted sails, therefore, are as good as useless, though they may have appeared very imposing to the natives.

A number of ash-grey people have collected near the village, and their chief is invested magnificently because he is to give ivory. From the elevated shore we see far in the low country, where the smoke appeared like a large lake. I was to suffer to-night for having exposed myself in the day, for a short time, to the heat of the sun. The sinking sun seemed to make my hair stand on end in a peculiar manner, and to set every single hair _en rapport_ with its rays. I could scarcely return to the vessel.

_12th January._—Happy those who have enjoyed a refreshing sleep to-night! I could not get any, and yet was so weary; fantastic forms plagued me the whole night; there is a restlessness in my nervous system, so that I get little comfort. Yet I brush up my strength, and write my journal; but I find it difficult, and cannot do much.

Before day-break, when some wind shewed itself, we set out, but again at sun-rise, the cry is “Libàhn.” S.S.E. At our left, the islands seen yesterday, the first of which is small, the second may be half an hour long. The wood stands on both sides upon the shore, which is twelve to fifteen feet high, in lively freshness and variety of colours. Mist is hovering about, and clouds prevent the sun from appearing.

Opposite to the large island is a gohr on the left shore, forty to fifty feet wide, apparently in connection with a lake behind the Haba. Half-past eight o’clock. S.W., but in a curve to S. I hear a shot before us, and they tell me that Suliman Kashef has killed, _at one shot_, a large crocodile on the sandy promontory of the right shore, so that it never moved from the spot after being struck. We tarry there till half-past nine o’clock, for Suliman Kashef presents the skin of the beast to Arnaud; but the latter scarcely retains the back-shield. As there is plenty of other meat, the men scorn to cut off its tail, and eat it according to the custom of the country. My servants, however, who knew that I had already tasted this sort of meat in Khartùm, as also in Taka, a snake, which a dervish had dressed himself, cut off a slice for me. Even had I not been ill, the smell of musk it exhaled, and which was not lost, though cooked with hay, was so repulsive to me, that they were obliged to throw it over board immediately. At first it appeared to me incredible that mariners should scent from afar the presence of a crocodile; but on my journey from Káhira to Sennaar, my own olfactories, when they offered me in Korusko a young one for sale, had become very sensitive to the odour of this beast.

At our entrance into the Blue Stream, I could smell the crocodiles, lying at a distance of six hundred paces off upon a sand-bank at the mouth of the White Stream, before I had seen them. The glands containing a secretion like musk, are situated in the hinder part, as in the civet-cats, (viverra civetta), domesticated in Bellet Sudàn, known here by the name of sabàt. These animals are kept in cages for the purpose of collecting the favourite perfume, called here musk or moschus.

Ten o’clock. S. by W. The river winds to the left; on the right an island with a village, separated by a narrow arm from the left side of the river. We sail with a good north-east wind, and make four miles. The poor negroes run as fast as they can to obtain a few beads, but in vain. On the left also an island.

Four o’clock. S.S.E. A short tract to S., and again to the left, S.E. We do not see the Haba of the left shore from the cabin; on the right it is divided from the river by a fore-shore. Soon afterwards, on the left shore, a village, with a solitary dhelleb-palm; the houses with a little pointed roof of straw, as in the tokuls; but the wall protruding in the centre, like a thick cask standing upright—another nation, therefore—that of the Elliàbs. At half-past eleven, again S.E.

_15th January._—These are the days of trial; what avails good will, and a firm heart? I am still very weak, and cannot sit up. The negroes, since daybreak, have been singing their bold songs, and continue their war-dances, with quick or slow evolutions, in columns: their leaders are at their head, making threatening motions, wildly and freely, and inflaming the courage of their men by sudden broken chaunts, which the chorus then takes up. They clearly want to pay us respect by these manœuvres, for their rapid march is not directed against us; they do not appear to me to be the enemies we were informed of some days since, for they try with all their might to gain our friendship, and bring a number of cows to us.

I look at my journal, and thought I had been so ill since _yesterday_ at noon that I was not able to continue it to the evening. To my most supreme astonishment, however, I hear from Feïzulla Capitan and my servants, that this yesterday dates _from the 12th of January_, and that they believed I was going to die. I remember very well, however, that I once saw Thibaut sitting on Feïzulla Capitan’s bed, and conjured him solemnly to send the doctor to bleed me. I sent out also my men to look, for one of them told me that Thibaut had not gone on board the doctor’s vessel, but on that of the Frenchmen. The doctor appeared, a perfectly black Shaigië, who had received the finishing stroke, as an accomplished alipta, under Clot Bey. Arnaud came immediately afterwards, to try on me his sleight of hand in phlebotomy. As I had got my brother to mark the point where to lance, so that I might do it myself in case of necessity, and had touched up the same with ink, every now and then, I allowed Arnaud more willingly to perform the operation, the black doctor having already worried me with his chattering. I trembled too much myself to undertake it with my own hand. I lay there at night, and a feeling came over me as if my whole body were pulsating, and I was myself moved up and down by the pulses. I did not dare to close my eyes, for fear of being tormented by those indescribable phantasies; I perceived only too well that Arnaud had not taken away sufficient blood. Willingly would I have had now a helping hand, but every one was asleep, and I could not call because I had lost my voice. I therefore undid the bandage, moved my arm vigorously about, and let the blood flow out of window; I felt I was much better, but was afraid of falling in a swoon and bleeding to death, when all at once a bright thought struck me: I took one of the large ivory rings lying near me, drew it over the hand, and so tight over the compress, which I had again put on, that they were obliged in the morning to cut it to pieces on my arm.

To my great consolation I heard that we had remained from twelve o’clock at noon in a south-easterly direction on the average, and at five o’clock had landed on a place where we remained till four o’clock yesterday evening, and then had come on as far as here, said to be only a short tract. Selim Capitan told me that we had only made on the 12th fifteen miles. The Frenchmen do not wish me to annoy myself about this gap in my diary, and promised me all possible _éclaircissement_ from their own journals; but they found, however, subsequently, excuses to shuffle off, and I must therefore survey this tract more accurately on the return voyage. Suliman Kashef also had fallen sick in the very same hour I did, and was just as long delirious; on his account, therefore, the crew had kept quiet. I hear, to my astonishment, that Arnaud is accused of having tried to poison the Kashef and myself out of one and the same goblet, on the day before our simultaneous illness, because he himself had drank from another the last time we were with him. It was only with difficulty that I could persuade Suliman Kashef to divest himself of this unhappy idea; and it was by the following means I principally effected it:—I took precipitate powder from Arnaud, in water, before his face.

We go S.S.E., and after sun-rise S.E. On the left the head of an island discloses itself, if the gohr going to the N.E. is a Nile arm. Here also the people have collected, singing, and jumping backwards and forwards, in three files, as far as their strength will allow them, for they have not got a rag of clothes on their backs. A land promontory, jutting out from the right shore, brings us at last, after much labour, from S.E. to E. by N. A hippopotamus has just injured our doctor’s vessel so much that it would have sunk if it had not been aground on the sand. Yesterday evening also, when we were lying at anchor, a similar river-buffalo struck our large vessel with such force, that not being in the best condition, it made an uncomfortable motion, and roused immediately all our attention to examine the hold. We advance a little, and suddenly there is a cry that there is no water-course before us. I take this statement to be a knavish trick of the Reïs, whose duty it is to sound, and who pretend this in order to get back the sooner to their wives at Khartùm. I have expressed this opinion to Feïzulla Capitan, and begged of him to go to the two commanders.

I have good reason to fear that the invalid Suliman Kashef would rather be waited upon in his hàrim, at Kàrreri, than here by his Turks, although he has a young Circassian girl in the second cabin, who durst not leave the narrow space she is confined in, notwithstanding my intercession. The second time I was on board Suliman Kashef’s vessel, I was looking at his arrangements, just as the eunuch standing in the corner had gone out to fetch water; quite by accident, I opened the door of the second cabin, and saw there this pale, but beautiful girl, lying on the carpet, in a gauze chemise and trowsers. Suliman Kashef called out as if the devil possessed him, “Hàrim! Hàrim!” on which excusing myself, I naturally retreated, and he burst out into a loud laugh. Thus this poor creature sat in a cage, in which there was hardly room for her bed. The air entering but sparingly through the closed Venetian blinds, was obliged to suffice her day and night, for she was not even allowed to look out at the scenery.

There are several negroes on the right shore, who have a different language to that of the Elliàbs, and are called Tshièrrs. They sing and shout as much as they can, to induce us to receive their presents of cattle.

The shores in this region are not mixed with strata of sand in horizontal, but in undulatory layers, which may prove that a more violent influx into the reed-lakes took place here formerly, than in the present day. We navigate at four o’clock a short tract to E. and S.E., and immediately S.W. At sun-set, from S. to E. At the left a broad arm to N., perhaps having the main stream, for it shews here hardly any fall. We halt at the right shore, and take other natives from hence, for the purpose of acting as interpreters, instead of the former ones. From the mast is seen, on the left shore, two cities, and the great Haba, half an hour distant.

_16th January._—I have passed a dreadful night, continually raving, and so far as I believe, I have not slept a minute. It was not till after sun-rise that we go with libàhn to E. by N.; an hour later S.E. Whilst I am counting seven villages on the left shore, along a dry gohr or Nile arm, I see on the right only one village. At half-past nine o’clock we sail S. by W. Ten o’clock.—The right shore is entirely covered with houses; thus the whole country presents, in a yet unseen extent, a cheerful cultivation of durra, simsim, tobacco, and lubiën (the phasels, or white beans, so frequently met with in the land of Sudàn). We see continually on the shores the ricinus and ushàr (_asclepias procera_), with luxuriant leaves, as well as the rigli, or purslane, which grows wild also in the gardens of Khartùm, and was our usual salad. At noon N.E., where a city on the right shore extended; then E., and subsequently S.E. Here I see, for the first time, the natives washing. Notwithstanding the proximity of the water, they make no regular custom of washing themselves, as is only too plainly seen by their bodies covered with ashes. They bring us large ivory tusks, as they did previously, and these were purchased in favour of government, for a few beads. Two o’clock.—On the right shore a large village, with a different sort of tokuls; and we go from N. by E. to S. It is unquestionable that there is an enormous population in this country of the Tshièrrs. The people have a friendly physiognomy, and the form of the face is more spherical than that of the other tribes.

_17th January._—We halted yesterday evening close to a large city on the left shore, and remained there till eight o’clock this morning. This delay was caused by the natives constantly dragging down elephants’ tusks to us. The tokuls are like sheds, but barricaded round about with thick stakes, probably on account of the wild beasts. My European companions are very anxious about my health, and wish me not to write. They will lend a hand to me in every thing—very cunning of them! On the right and left villages. An island on the left shore, at least a gohr, enters into the land there; but where tarries the other gohr or Nile arm, that we saw four days ago? From E.S.E. to S.E. The north wind is better to-day than yesterday, when it set in, so desirable to me in my invalid state, and we make three miles. On the right shore a Haba, sometimes retreating a little, sometimes approaching. An innumerable crowd of negroes stood at the before-mentioned bend of the river, but we sail proudly by, without throwing out beads, and exciting the desire of such a mass of human beings for our glass riches. The people cultivate their fields, and are really better fed, but appear not to be equally particular about washing. The shores of the Nile are twelve to fifteen feet high, and there prevails a crumbling humus, easily rubbed to powder; always strongly, however, mixed with sand. These men, moreover, not only produce the fruits above alluded to, but also gàra and battigh (gourds and water-melons). Iron rings on the arms and feet seem to be regarded here with more respect than ivory rings. We leave two islands, of about two hours in length, at our side; they are also cultivated. As the country becomes more interesting, I feel myself happily a little better, and this may partly arise from the clearer air.

The natives say that the Felati, who wear clothing or rags (sharmuta), like our men, are only a few days’ journey from us to the west. I hear that these Felati, like the Tokruri, from Darfùr, being Muslims, make the pilgrimage to Mecca. It is certain that they do not take the road traversed by us, for nothing is known of them in Khartùm: it appears to me more likely that they join the pilgrim caravan of Burnu, and distribute themselves in the neighbourhood of the Nile, the better to beg their way through. Subsequently I became acquainted with a slave in Khartùm, who had come to the land of Sudàn, through Burnù. Felati means there dissolute roving men, such as these Tokruri, from the interior of Africa, generally are. It is thought that we shall meet with these Felati, and this is the more desired by me, because, as they partly speak Arabic, I could ask them questions myself, and should have no need of two or three interpreters, who translate in a careless manner one to the other.

Twelve o’clock. S.S.E. The stream is, as I predicted, more constant in its old limits, which have approached closer to us; we have generally a south-easterly direction. On the right also the wood is near, and I am curious to survey some of the beautiful green trees. The natives have brought us goats and sheep, but no cows; and do not seem to wish to give them. We have a small island on our left, and on the right the lower end of another, though we have not seen its commencement. Village connects itself to village, with broad low tokuls. We go from the south, where, on the left, through a simsim-field, separated from the river, stands a stately village, with reed palisadoes, to S.E. There ends the little island, and two other sandy ones immediately join on. Eight women are standing on the downs of the right shore before their village, and comfortably smoke their pipes. The isolated trees, with their beautiful branches and soft green foliage, have a very cheerful look. The simsim, cut-down, is regularly fixed together, like an arbour, in order to be dried. S.W., on the left, an island.

The shores are intersected with sandy strips. The larger tokul-roofs have an irregular form, with horns on the top, mistaken by the Turks for the crescent; they appear, however, to be the branches of the tree standing in the middle of the tokul. It is the gable of the house; and possibly we may look here for an adoration of animals bearing horns. On the right an island with beautiful foliage upon it; the channel is not broader than double the length of our vessel. To the left there is an island, and opposite it a mere deposit of an island, quite lively and verdant in the water; the river is again broader. On the right, and shortly afterwards on the left, two islands end, though we have not observed their lower part. Either they had not any water there, and were easily overlooked, or the stream branches so that we can scarcely form an idea of it. I look upon this portion of the White River, in regard to its uncommon mass of waters, with still greater respect, as a phenomenon difficult to be solved.

It is three o’clock. S. by W. Do I hear rightly?—they are speaking of _Gebl_—how that sound thrills to my heart! I call, but no one listens to me, for all are standing upon deck, and looking towards the mountain, which is said to be very large. In spite of the sun, and all remonstrances, I drag myself up on deck, and see the mountain to S.W., at a distance of about twenty hours. It seems to form an accumulation towards one point, and may surely be the forerunner of other mountains; therefore, after all, there are mountains of the moon. City crowds on city; and the Egyptians look out from the mast for herds of cattle, which are not, however, numerous. An innumerable population moves on the shores; to express their number our crew say, “Ketir, saie el tubàhn” (as many as flies); and we sail always, Allah Kerim, by the shore, which is quite black with people, who are standing as if benumbed with astonishment.

Four o’clock. From S.S.E. to S.S.W. The north-east wind good for four miles. It seems as if we were going to the chain of mountains, or, at least, coming nearer to it. Two days ago the natives whom we asked knew nothing of any mountain on the river. The river again becomes majestic at this bend, and gives us every favourable hope by its water-mark. On the right a small island, and another lies likewise planted in the middle of the river before us.

Five o’clock. S.W., and to S. An island on the left shore, where a gohr enters far into the land; then on the left a small island in our river, round which we proceed on the right, in order to come to the supposed gohr, which soon shews itself to be a main stream, flowing here S.E., and therefore not forming an island. Still there is an uncomfortable feeling at finding myself near the Equator in Central Africa, and being ill at the same time. Every man has his home, and this is frequently confined to such narrow limits that there is, properly speaking, only _one_ favourite place in life. I was never a gourmand; but _sauerkraut_, now fresh from the tub—and I should be well on the spot.

At half-past five o’clock, from S.E. to S.S.W., and shortly afterwards S., and again S.S.W. I see strings of white beads, that may have been introduced by the Felati already mentioned; for the White Stream itself does not seem, up to this moment, to form any road of communication to the tribes who are ever at war with each other. From E.S.E. to S. by W., where we halt at sunset, and I go on shore. The Tshièrrs, possessing both shores here, are a very handsome race of men; tall, strongly built, and well fed. There is a good nature and courtesy in their behaviour, shewing, in itself, external cultivation. I can scarcely persuade myself that I am in the middle of Africa. The “stipes Æthiops,” as the Romans called it, always falls away the further we ascend the river. This type, indigenous particularly to the Dinkas, has not only entirely disappeared, but a nobler and more natural motion in the limbs has taken its place. Every one of these people wears a small wooden fife round his neck, having three tones. They say that the strings of glass beads they wear come _from above_ (gèbeli, min fok), pointing up the river to the south. It almost seems as if there were a connection between these countries and the Atlantic Ocean. Although these people are armed with clubs, spears, bows, and poisoned arrows, yet there is something in the natural disposition of the human heart that prevents even our men from giving way to fear at a distance, but they take very good care not to offend the kind commoners of nature in any way.

_18th January._—Another bad night. Even now, at Asser, I have not recovered. The Frenchmen, indeed, have paid me a visit, consoled me with empty words, but cast looks at one another, the meaning of which I so well understood that I assured them there was no danger; I should see my brother again, whom I just at this moment missed very much. We sail, on the whole, S.W., see six to seven islands, and approach nearer to the high mountain. This afternoon I saw, on the left, a little gohr, which discharges itself with a strong fall into the river: they tell me, from the mast, that a second one is lost again beyond the right shore. It appears, therefore, to be fed by our water-course, whilst the other is a subordinate arm of the Nile from above, or a tributary stream. Four o’clock. From N.N.W. to E. A large city at some distance from the left shore. An incredible number of people, who go here also quite naked, are dancing and singing on both shores: our course is really a constant triumphant march. The bears on the vessels will half kill themselves with laughing. We have likewise here that sharp piercing cry which we are so frequently compelled to hear in Lower Egypt, at marriages and other festivals of the kind. This “Kullelullullulu” is therefore, perhaps, of Ethiopian origin, and recalls involuntarily to our mind the descent of tribes from the Highlands. To the right of the city a small island follows, and a pretty wood extends over the margin of the river.

Half-past four o’clock. On the right and left an island; and notwithstanding the breadth of the river, we have still a good water-course, which has increased here in rapidity, a sure sign that we shall come at least to higher regions. The poison-tree is still abundant, and does not seem to be considered dangerous even by these people of free nature; we see it even standing close to their huts. It is not yet sun-set. There is singing, with dancing, and clapping of hands, even far into the water itself,—a truly black joy: the women with their sharp “kulle,” the men with their bass voices, the boys with their treble, and the barking of dogs between whiles, so that I can scarcely hold my pen, and know not where to fly to for peace. They drag calves behind them, and swim towards us, whereby the greatest part of the glass beads thrown to them fall into the water, and there is a monstrous noise and splashing in picking them up. I was sorry for the beautifully-formed young girls, who went away empty-handed in this crowding and wrestling of thousands. With the most amiable countenance they pointed to their necks, shewing that they had no beads there. They were all laughing and in good spirits, and shouted to us “Màdam!” said to be a title of honour.

_19th January._—We navigate this morning with a gentle north-east wind to the south, and shortly afterwards have those grass-islands at our side that lay yesterday evening before us. Here the natives offer us every thing: weapons, certainly the dearest thing to them; arrows and bows, long spears, light javelins, and their ornaments, consisting mostly of iron rings! And all this for miserable Venetian conterie, which perhaps may serve for a long time as an article of commerce with the inhabitants of the interior of Africa. The sky lowers, and was yesterday also somewhat clouded. The river is here universally four hundred paces broad.

When I look on the soil, I find that it is either percolated with sand, and forms a perforated black mass, like the humus in Nubia, or that the layers, being still unchequered or unworked, are disposed in strata one over the other, sand over humus, and _this_ over mixed earth, &c., but in thicker deposits than we are accustomed to see in other parts of the Nile. The undulating direction of these layers shews a stronger water-way, and a more vigorous forcing on and off of liquid soil. I am now not at all doubtful of a high land. Another shallow island joins on to the above-named green river meadow, over which the neighbouring wood peeps forth refreshingly, with a large village. The natives accompanying us are brought, by the partition of the shore, to a place from whence they cannot advance; they stand and stamp and dance, always upon one spot, some holding a spear, or bow and arrow, in their hands, some a long stick, and others without anything. They sing in alternate song, and raise at the same time one or both hands in the air, or stretch themselves towards us, and draw the arm back again.

Eight o’clock. From S., a short tract to S.E., and then E. and N.E. Isolated, strong, ricinus plants, are distinguished by their dark foliage from the other vegetation, which is beginning here also to wither. On the whole it is wonderfully verdant on all sides, to which perhaps the heavy dew may mostly contribute. The people here have better teeth, but the four lower incisors are wanting, according to the custom of the country.

Nine o’clock, S.S.E. On the right shore stands one of those beautifully foliated, large trees, which I have not yet seen close, but which appears to be a species of Robinia. A large company of blacks, smoking long pipes, have collected under this tree. The little boys are excessively merry, blowing in concert their fifes, jumping and greeting, the latter meant for our boys, whose look pleases them more than our bearded faces. The green Haba of the right shore accompanies us cheerfully; the long procession coming out of the wood, to look at the strangers, indicates a very numerous population. Who could believe that there was in Africa this aquatic abundance, this fresh verdure, and this moderate heat, the thermometer having been for some days not above twenty-five degrees? At noon from S.E. to S.W. The river winds, however, immediately again to S., in which direction we generally return in the afternoon. The stream is about six hundred paces broad, and has a depth of three to three fathoms and a half. Here must we journey on, as far as our old planks will allow us, in order to reach its sources with the wind, which is mostly slack. The shallow island we already saw this morning does not end till about two o’clock, and the arm embracing it is broad, and so deep that the negroes accompanying us on shore are obliged to swim. An island deposit lies at its head, and will soon perhaps be united to it. Immediately afterwards, on the left shore, a large summer or pastoral village; on the right and left, singing and jumping of men, women, and children. Our mountain, of a dark-blue colour, on the right, suddenly looked into my window, and surprised me not a little. We sail S.S.E., with two miles rapidity. On the left is a gohr to S.S.E., into which the people plunge with loud huzzaing, so that they may accompany us a little longer. No beads are given gratis; the poor people must run, make the Turks laugh first, and give them entertainment, before it is determined to throw on shore these glass bits of paste, though Selim Capitan possesses an enormous stock of them, and then this _generosity_ is only for the sake of seeing the bustle and noise of the great children.

Three o’clock. On the left an island, and the other arm embracing it, divides immediately a whole troop of people, with their bullocks, from our road; but there are huts and blacks enough on the island itself. We go W., and the mountain lies S.W. of us, as it appears, in its entire longitudinal profile, although we could not distinguish clefts or precipices. The scarpe, on the southern side, ascends to a height nearly equal to one of the ridges, makes a concave vibration towards this, and falls gently to the west on a break, rising precipitously only a little above the horizon. We see even from here that it is a mountain of moderate size.

Four o’clock. The high mountain lies W.S.W. of us, and, to my joy, I hear from the mast that another mountain, far higher, rises behind it to S.W., with three peaks (Tshokka, fork, spike). It must therefore belong to a high land, as I have already hoped.

The women sing their “kulle,” and throw the upper part of their bodies from one side to the other. I saw also the men here shake their chests with such agility and force, as I had never witnessed in the dances of the Arabs. How inferior all our gymnastics are to the natural nimbleness, and lion and tiger-like flexibility of these freely developed limbs! I see one negro jump up from the ground against another, with a piercing cry; he turns himself round whilst flying in the air, and stands with a raised spear—I might say upon his toe, bent forward for the combat—but he is immediately again appeased by the other. This was a pirouette, worthy of the plastic skill and hand of an artist. In the space of an hour, two other mountains in the south, we ourselves going southerly, are announced to me. On the right and left villages continue, but we see only here and there the top of a tokul, because they do not stand on the extreme higher margin of the shore. Large herds of cows glisten forth from the Haba close at hand, and others are scrambling down to the river to drink. This wooded region, directly on the stream, the proximity of the mountains,—we shall see what beautiful and wonderful things yet the interior of Africa may contain; and I will endure every thing, because I feel strengthened and excited by the mountain air blowing down upon me.

There are some trees as green as beeches in May, and having the wide-spread branches of oaks. Immediately afterwards, a large village with flat tokuls: the right shore presents here, in truth, a charming sight. One tree, I remark, having some similarity to the linden in its foliage, spreading out its boughs like fans, in fantastical forms, and standing there oddly. On the right and left are several villages, and also an island on the right side of the river. On the left shore, a large tokul city, with a large and small island in the river before it. The tokuls have nearly a pointed roof, but appear to be carefully built. A number of people have accumulated there, and I hear the “kullelu” quite plainly, trilling, in the sharpest treble, the accent “Ih, ih, ih.”

We halt, in a southerly direction, at sun-set, in the middle of the river, not to be annoyed by the natives, and to avoid all provocation on the part of the crew. The country is still a real paradise, and the durra is putting forth its shoots, to give a second crop. It must not be supposed that the fields have a regular form; on the contrary, every thing looks as if it grew of its own accord, without sowing. The trees stand in such strength, as though they had no need of water; and the human beings shew, by their more noble appearance, that they enjoy a generous nourishment.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

LONDON: Printed by S. & J. BENTLEY and HENRY FLEY, Bangor House, Shoe Lane.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: Renard the Fox. This refers to the celebrated old German satire on the intrigues practised at a weak court. It appeared at Lubeck in 1498, and nothing is known, with certainty, of its author. Goethe has admirably rendered a part of it into Hexameters.—_Translator_.]

[Footnote 2: Subsequently I was convinced, by reading over more carefully a letter which I had received from my brother (as a last remembrance, containing careful recipes for my health) just as I was embarking, that Ahmed Basha and Suliman Kashef had spoken the truth, and that the latter was really nominated chief of the expedition by the viceroy. This journal (kept by the renegade Rustum Effendi, a native of Navarino) had given greater satisfaction than Selim-Capitan’s numerous figures, &c. The Kashef confessed to me openly that he would now take his ease, and let the others do what they liked, for he was no maendes (engineer).]

[Footnote 3: A thaler is about 3_s._ English.]

[Footnote 4: Each degree of Réaumur is equal to 2⅑ of one of Fahrenheit. To change, therefore, Réaumur into Fahrenheit, multiply the given number of degrees of Réaumur by 9, and divide the product by 4, the quotient must be added to 32°, and the sum will be the equivalent sought.]

[Footnote 5: The miles, during this voyage, are English sea-miles, or knots. (Trans.)]

[Footnote 6: _Sauerbraten._—The well known decoction of beef steeped in vinegar, which is served up at every table d’hôte in Germany.—_Transl._]

[Footnote 7: A Parisian or French foot is equal to 1·066 English.]

[Footnote 8: A Rhenish foot is equal to 1·030 English. (Transl.)]

Transcriber's note:

pg v_bis Changed: HUSSEÏN AA’S DRINKING to: AGA’S

pg 51 Changed: exept by Vaissière to: except

pg 78 Changed: Kabbalish Arabs to: Kabbabish

pg 88 Changed: Sahèbesha to: Schèbesha

pg 89 Changed: the left hore to: shore

pg 95 Changed: Philœ to: Philæ

pg 95 Changed: Wadi Shiler to: Shileï

pg 147 Changed: _Andansonia digitata_ to _Adansonia_

pg 184 Changed: latitude yesterday was 80° to: 8°

pg 190 Changed: their countyman’s statement to: countryman’s

pg 209 Changed: latitude is 70° 48′ to: 7°

pg 213 Changed: severel deep foot-prints to: several

pg 221 Changed: HUSSEÏN AA’S DRINKING to: AGA’S

pg 234 Changed: neigbouring reeds to: neighbouring

pg 234 Changed: accord-to to: according to

pg 305 Changed: of unusal size to: unusual

pg 321 Changed: without any accdent to: accident

Minor changes in punctuation have been done silently.

Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.