PART II. DICK & FITZGERALD, NEW-YORK]
THE LARGE SPRIG.—30 ch., close for a loop, and work round it thus: 1 sl., 2 sc. dc. all the rest but 3; 2 sc., 1 slip. Turn the work on the wrong side; 16 ch., miss 3, slip on 4th, + 4 slip on the last 4 of the chain; 16 ch., miss 4, slip on 5th, + 5 times; 4 slip on last 4 of the 16; 12 ch., miss 3, slip on closing stitch; work all round these loops in dc., except the first and last stitches of each loop, which must be sc. This completes the flower: 16 ch., on which work back, 1 sc. + 2 dc. in one chain, + 4 times, 1 dc., 9 ch., 1 sc., 7 dc. on the 9; 1 dc. 1 tc., in next chain of 16; 1 dc., in next; 1 sc. in next; 1 slip in next; slip back on the last 3 stitches; 6 ch., on which 1 slip, 1 sc., 8 dc. (the last of which will come on the 16 ch.) ; 2 sc., 1 slip, leaving 2 ch. for the stem, 8 ch.
SHAMROCK.—21 ch., join in 7th for loop, and slip 4 on the last 4; 11 ch., join to the stitch which closed the loop; slip back 4 as before 11 ch., join at the close of the loop, and work all round in sc., also 6 sc. on stem; 26 ch. slip 11, leaving 14 for stem; work round the 11 thus: 1 slip, 1 sc., 7 dc., 1 sc. 1 slip, on each side, which forms a close leaf; repeat leaf, with 8 ch. for stem instead of 14; then another leaf close to it; 8 sc. on 8 ch. of stem; repeat the leaf; 7 sc. on stem; repeat the shamrock; 7 sc. on stem; repeat the leaf, making a ch. of 14 instead of 12; work in sc. to the base of the flower; fasten off.
Honiton lace sprigs and edgings must be finished by running the ends of thread at the back with a fine sewing needle, and then cutting them off.
To make hemstitch for the neck, make a chain the required length, and work thus: 2 ch. miss 1, 1 dc. This gives the circular form requisite for the neck of a collar.
PASSION FLOWER IN CHENILLE [FIG. 2.]
MATERIALS.—One piece of green chenille, of a medium tint; one of a very delicate green; one of violet ditto; and a small quantity of rather stout liteaux. This last is a kind of fine wire, used in making up flowers, &c. The chenille is the fine kind termed _chenille a broder_. Crochet hook, No. 14.
Cut a piece of liteaux, about a quarter of a yard long; make a loop at one end of it, occupying an eighth of the whole length, and twist the wire, to keep the round perfect; on this loop work 16 dc. stitches with the lightest green or white chenille, and on these another round of dc. stitches. Repeat this seven times more; so that on the length of liteaux eight of these petals are formed. When all are done, twist together the ends of every two, and fasten them thus on a piece of liteaux, as close together as possible. Then prepare the stamens and pistil. Twist some short pieces of liteaux, into a form as nearly as possible resembling that of the natural pistil, which, it will be remembered, has three branching arms. Cover this with pale green chenille. The stamens are short pieces of liteaux, some covered with violet, and some with green chenille: they are to be made of different lengths, and the ends to be twisted round that of the pistil, so that they may surround it. Then make a small ring of liteaux, put it round the stamens and pistil, and cover it with violet chenille, when the centre of the flower is completed. Put round it the liteaux with the eight petals attached, so that the ring of violet covers the joins. Work on a small wire ring two rounds of dark green chenille for the calyx, in which place the flower.
Twist the ends all together, to form a stem, and cover it with chenille of the same color.
FOR THE BUD.—Work 20 tc. stitches with the light green chenille on a bit of liteaux, laying in another piece of wire at the edge. Draw the stitches rather together, so as to form a cup, in which put a morsel of cotton wool. Work on another bit of liteaux 16 dc. stitches with dark green chenille; twist the ends together, drawing the wire into the form of a leaf. Four of these make the calyx which is to surround the bud. Twist the ends together, and cover the stem so formed with chenille.
THE LEAVES.—Twist a piece of liteaux large enough to form the centre of a leaf, and work round it in dc. with the darkest green chenille, taking care to make your stitches very close together. Work round this another row of the same chenille, with a bit of _very fine wire_ in the edge. Do all in dc. except the first and last stitches, which must be in sc. Twist the ends of the wires for a stem, and cover with the same shade of chenille. If these artificial flowers are to be used for a head dress, four of them must be made, and a sufficient number of leaves to form a drooping branch on each side of the hair. For a bonnet, they may be formed into a group.
To make a wreath of the present style, unite the two sprays by either a coronet of leaves, or a plait of lilac chenille.
For dark hair, make flowers of scarlet chenille instead of lilac.
CARD BASKET IN CROCHET [FIG. 3.]
MATERIALS.—Rich blue Berlin wool, two ounces; gold colour and scarlet filoselle, three-quarters of an ounce each; fine window cord; Bone crochet hook.
Form with the cord as small a round as you can for the commencement of the stand, and continue to work in it, round and round, until all the flat part of the basket is done, all in sc.
1st round.—12 stitches, blue.
2nd.—18 ditto.
3rd.—24 ditto.
4th.—36 ditto.
5th.—1 gold, 3 blue, 2 gold, 3 blue, 1 gold. 4 times.
6th.—1 gold, 4 blue, 2 gold, 4 blue, 1 gold,. 4 times.
7th.—2 gold, 5 blue, 3 gold, 5 blue, 1 gold,. 4 times.
8th.—4 gold (the 1st on the 1st of last row,) 1 blue, 7 gold, 1 blue, 3 gold. 4 times.
9th.—2 gold, 2 scarlet on 1 gold, 3 gold (the centre on the single blue,) 2 scarlet on 1 gold, 3 gold on 3 gold, 2 scarlet on 1 gold, 3 gold, 2 scarlet on 1 gold, 1 gold. 4 times.
10th.—1 gold on 1st gold of last row, 3 scarlet on two stitches, 5 gold, 3 scarlet on 2, 1 gold on centre of 3 gold, 3 scarlet as before, 5 gold, 3 scarlet. 4 times.
11th.—2 gold on 1, 4 scarlet, 4 gold on 3, 4 scarlet, 2 gold on 1, 4 scarlet, 4 gold on 3, 4 scarlet. 4 times.
12th.—3 gold on 2, 4 scarlet, 3 gold on 2, 4 scarlet, 6 gold, 4 scarlet, 3 gold on 2, 4 scarlet, 3 gold on 2. 4 times.
Thus it will be perceived, the written instructions are for one exact quarter of each round. After having done the last round, do one entirely of scarlet; cut off the cord at the end of the round, and work a few stitches to conceal the termination of it.
FOR THE SIDES OF THE BASKET.—The rounds alternately blue and gold.
1st Round.—1 dc., 3 ch., miss 1; repeat.
2nd.—1 dc. on centre of 3 ch., 3 ch., miss 3.
3rd.—As last, with 4 ch. between.
4th.—Repeat, with 5 ch. between.
5th.—As 4th.
6th.—5 dc. on 5 ch., 1 ch., miss 1; repeat.
7th.—Sc. all round, with cord in as in the first part.
8th.—3 sc. on 3 centre of 5, 9 ch., miss 3, repeat.
9th.—To be worked on the same row as the last, 3 sc. on the 3 missed, 9 ch., miss 3; repeat. Work these two rows in different colours, and form a band of wire, covered with ribbon or crochet, to correspond; conceal the fastening with bows.
BORDER FOR AN EMBROIDERED QUILT. [FIG. 4.]
KNITTED EMBROIDERY.
MATERIALS.—Knitting cotton, white and ingrain pinks, No. 12; knitting needles, No. 15; eagle card-board gauge.
Knitted Embroidery, of which the engraving shows a very simple specimen, is a very novel and beautiful style of work. In wool, its effect rivals that of the costly chenille, with the advantage of being washable; and now that cottons are dyed of such exquisite colors, they are also very suitable for it.
With the white cotton cast on 16 stitches, and purl a row.
1st.—W.: k. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 3, ✕ k. 1 P., 1 W., 1 P., ✕ W. k. 4, m. 2, k. 2.
2nd.—W.: k. 3, p. 1, k. 1, p. 3, ✕ p. 1 P., 1 W., 1 P., ✕ white p. 3, k. 4.
3rd.—W.: k. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 5, ✕ k. 3 P, ✕ k. 8 W.
4th.—W.: k. 2, m. 2, k. 2 t., k. 1, p. 4, ✕ p. 1 P., ✕ W., p. 4, k. 4.
5th.—All white: k. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 12, p. 1, k. 2.
6th.—W.: k. 6, ✕ p. 1 P., 1 W., 1 P., 3 W., 1 P., 1 W., 1 P., ✕ k. 4 W.
7th.—W.: k. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ k. 1 P., 1 W., 1 P., 3 W., 1 P., 1 W., 1 P., ✕ W., k. 2 t., m. 2, k. 2 t., k. 2 t.
8th.—W.: k. 3, p. 1, k. 1, ✕ p. 3 P., 3 W., 3 P., ✕ W., k. 4.
9th.—W.: k. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, ✕ k. 1 P., 5 W., 1 P., ✕ W., k. 5.
10th.—All White: cast off 2, k. 2, p. 9, k. 4. Repeat the pattern to the length required.
+ + Between these marks only the colors intermix.
CROCHET EDGING. [FIG. 5.]
Like all other crochet patterns, the size depends wholly on the materials employed. For dress trimmings, No. 30 Crochet cotton, with crochet hook No. 19, will be suitable; or even finer cotton may be used. But this pattern being particularly suitable for trimming curtains and so forth, I recommend Crochet cotton, No. 10, and steel crochet hook, No. 14.
Make a chain of 15 stitches, and sc. into the 6th of these to make a loop. Work under the upper half of this loop 8 sc.; 11 ch.; form this loop as before, leaving one chain between it and the last; work 8 sc. in it; do three more with 11 ch., then one with 15, and so on throughout. When sufficient is done for the piece required, _allowing for its diminishing by one-third_, work 7 sc. on the other side of every round, and 1 sc. between. On the five chain between every five work 2 sc.
3rd Row.—Begun at the same place as the last 3 sc. on the three centre stitches of the first loop, 2 ch., 2 sc. on the centre stitches of the next 3 loops, with 2 chain between, 3 sc. on the last of the five, and 4 chain between; repeat.
4th. Worked the same way. 3 sc. on the 3 sc. of last row, 13 ch., 3 sc. on 3 sc. of the fifth loop, 4 sc. on 4 ch.; repeat.
5th.—1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1; repeat.
6th.—Sc. throughout.
When this is done, work with a common needle and thread three bars of button-hole stitch, to connect the three centre loops, as seen in the engraving.
PUNCH’S ANTI-MACASSAR. [FIG. 6.]
MATERIALS.—Crochet cotton, No. 10; crochet hook, No. 15; eagle card-board gauge; 136 ch.
The first four rows in open square crochet.
5th.—19 o., 1 c., 25 o., 1 dc.
6th.—16 o., 4 c., 7 o., 1 c., 17 o., 1 dc.
7th.—16 o., 4 c., 4 o., 4 c., 17 o., 1 dc.
8th.—17 o., 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 4 o., 4 c., 17 o., 1 dc.
9th.—18 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 5 dc., 5 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 6 dc., 1 ch., 17 o., 1 dc.
10th.—18 o., 3 c., 3 o., 4 c., 17 o., 1 dc.
11th.—13 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 6 dc., 1 ch., 1 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 11 dc., 2 ch., 2 ch., 1 dc., 1 dc., 2 ch., 4 c., 17 o., 1 dc.
12th.—13 o., 3 c., 2 o., 3c. 2 o., 4 c., 18 o., 1 dc.
13th.—12 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 12 dc., 1 ch., 1 dc., 2 ch., 13 dc., 2 ch., 11 dc., 1 ch., 18 o., 1 dc.
14th.—12 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 41 dc., 2 ch., 18 o., 1 dc.
15th.—As 14th.
16th.—13 o., 43 dc., 2 ch., 17 o., 1 dc.
17th.—14 o., 43 dc., 2 ch., 16 o., 1 dc.
18th.—14 o., 46 dc., 2 ch., 15 o., 1 dc.
19th.—14 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 47 dc., 2 ch., 14 o., 1 dc.
20th.—15 o., 46 dc., 2 ch., 14 o., 1 dc.
21st.—15 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 44 dc., 2 ch., 14 o., 1 dc.
22nd.—11 o., 57 dc., 1 ch., 14 o., 1 dc.
23rd.—15 o., 61 dc., 2 ch., 9 o., 1 dc.
24th.—16 o., 46 dc., 2 ch., 13 o., 1 dc.
25th.—16 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 45 dc., 1 ch., 13 o., 1 dc.
26th.—17 o., 44 dc., 1 ch., 13 o., 1 dc.
27th.—18 o., 41 dc., 1 ch., 13 o., 1 dc.
28th.—16 o., 47 dc., 1 ch., 13 o., 1 o.
29th.—Like 28th.
30th.—16 o., 48 dc., 2 ch., 12 o., 1 dc.
31st.—16 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 29 dc., 2 ch., 16 o., 2 ch., 12 o., 1 dc.
32nd.—14 o., 35 dc., 1 ch., 1 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 14 dc., 2 ch., 12 o., 1 dc.
33rd.—14 o., 34 dc., 2 ch., 2 o., 13 dc., 2 ch., 12 o., 1 dc.
34th.—15 o., 31 dc., 2 ch., 2 o., 13 dc., 2 ch., 12 o., 1 dc.
35th.—16 o., 31 dc., 2 ch., 1 o., 13 dc., 2 ch., 12 o., 1 dc.
36th.—15 o., 37 dc., 2 ch., 1 dc., 1 ch., 9 dc., 1 ch., 13 o., 1 dc.
37th.—12 o., 7 dc., 2 ch., 37 dc., 2 ch., 1 dc., 2 ch., 7 dc., 2 ch., 13 o., 1 dc.
38th.—12 o., 34 dc., 2 ch., 1 dc., 2 ch., 5 dc., 1 ch., 2 o., 5 dc., 1 ch., 14 o., 1 dc.
39th.—12 o., 37 dc., 2 ch., 20 o., 1 dc.
40th.—13 o., 34 dc., 2 ch., 20 o., 1 dc.
41st.—14 o., 10 dc., 2 ch., 16 dc., 2 ch., 21 o., 1 dc.
42nd.—14 o., 1 dc., 1 ch., 35 dc., 2 ch., 18 o., 1 dc.
43rd.—15 o., 32 dc., 1 ch., 19 o., 1 dc.
44th.—14 o., 34 dc., 2 ch., 19 o., 1 dc.
45th.—15 o., 28 dc., 2 ch., 20 o., 1 dc.
46th.—16 o., 25 dc., 2 ch., 20 o., 1 dc.
47th.—Like 46th.
48th.—17 o., 22 dc., 2 ch., 20 o., 1 dc.
49th.—18 o., 19 dc., 2 ch., 20 o., 1 dc.
50th.—18 o., 19 dc., 2 ch., 1 dc., 2 ch., 7 dc., 2 ch., 16 o., 1 dc.
51st.—Like 50th.
52nd.—19 o., 16 dc., 2 ch., 1 dc., 2 ch., 4 dc., 2 ch., 17 o., 1 dc.
53rd.—20 o., 19 dc., 2 ch., 18 o., 1 dc.
54th.—21 o., 13 dc., 2 ch., 19 o., 1 dc.
55th to 58th inclusive, in open squares.
BORDER FOR THE ANTI-MACASSAR, which must have a row of sc. up each side previously done to fasten in the threads.
1st.—1 dc. over dc., of the Anti-Macassar, ✕ 2 ch., 7 dc. in next dc., 3 ch., 1 dc. in same stitch. ✕; repeat all round.
2nd.—Sc. in the centre of the 3 ch. of last round, ✕ 9 ch., sc. in centre of the next, ✕ ; repeat.
3rd.—✕ Sc. on 1st of 9 ch., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. on 3rd, 4 ch., miss 1, 1 dc. on 2nd. 3 ch., miss 2, 1 sc. on the last of the 9, ✕; repeat.
DEEP LACE IN CROCHET. [FIG. 7.]
FOR ANTI-MACASSARS, ETC.
MATERIALS.—Crochet cotton, No. 12; crochet hook, No. 14 or 15.
Make a chain the required length.
1st Row in sc.
2nd.—1 tc., 1 ch., miss 1, repeat.
3rd.—1 dc., 7 ch., miss 3, dc. in 4th; repeat.
4th.—✕ Sc. in centre of 7 ch., 7 ch., ✕; repeat.
5th, 6th, and 7th.—Like 4th.
8th.—† Sc. in centre of 7 ch., ✕; 9 ch., sc. in same stitch, ✕ twice 3 ch., miss 3, dc. on 4th. 3 ch., miss 3, †; repeat.
9th.—Sc., miss every sc. stitch of last row.
10th.—✕ sc. on point of the next loop, 3 ch., sc. on point of the next loop, 7 ch., ✕ repeat.
11th.—† Sc. on centre of 7 ch., ✕ 9 ch., sc. in same stitch, + twice 9 ch., †; repeat.
12.—† 9 sc. on 9 ch.; then, on the first loop of 9, work 1 sc., 2 dc., 6 tc., 2 dc., 1 sc.: then make the flower thus: 12 ch., slip in 6th for a loop, ✕ 5 ch., 1 sc. under loop, ✕ 4 times; work these 4 loops in sc., missing all the previous sc. stitches, then the 5 ch. that were left of the 12; 1 sc., 2 dc., 6 tc., 1 sc. on 2nd loop of 9, †; repeat.
TATTED INSERTION. [FIG. 8.]
SUITABLE FOR CUFFS, BANDS, ETC.
MATERIALS.—White cotton braid, No. 9; Crochet No. 70, and tatting-cotton, No. 3.
FOR THE TATTING.—6 double stitches; make a picot with a fine pin; 3 double stitches, 1 picot, 3 double stitches, 1 picot, 6 double stitches. Draw this loop up, and leave a space as great as that indicated in the engraving before making the next. When a sufficient quantity of this is done, take a piece of colored paper, rather longer than you require the insertion to be, and on it rule two parallel lines, an inch apart, and another exactly between them. Take on the tatting, allowing it to touch, alternately, each outer line; then back again in the same manner, so that the threads cross at the centre line, and form a hexagonal space between every two tatted loops. Braid the outer lines and the ends; and if the piece be intended for a cuff, put a double line of braid at one end for the buttons, and also two braid loops at the other, for button-holes. A long needleful of Crochet, No. 70, must then be taken along the centre line, connecting the cross lines with a button-hole stitch wherever they occur. Then work a rosette of English lace in every space, and another when the four threads cross each other. The tatting edging is made without picots, and lightly sewed on the outer edges of the braid, both sides of which should then be finished with a row of Venetian edging.
ANTI-MACASSAR. [FIG. 9.]
LAURESTINA LEAF PATTERN.
MATERIALS.—Crochet cotton, No. 8; knitting needles, No. 13.
Cast on any number of stitches you like, which can be divided by 16, and 6 over for the border. Knit three plain rows.
1st.—K. 3, + m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, slip 1, k. t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 2, + twice for every pattern, k. 3.
2nd. and every alternate. Knit the three first and last stitches, and purl all the remainder.
3rd.—K. 3, + m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t. pass the slip stitch over k. 1. ✕ twice for each pattern, k. 3.
5th.—K. 3, + m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass slip stitch over; ✕ twice as before; repeat and k. 3.
7th.—K. 3, ✕ m. 1, k. 2, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass slip stitch over; k. 2, m. 1, k. 1. ✕ twice for each pattern, k. 3.
9th.—K. 3, ✕ k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass slip stitch over; k. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass slip stitch over; k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 +; repeat to the last 3 k. 3.
11th.—K. 3, ✕ k. 2, m. 1, slip 1, k,. 2 t., pass slip stitch over; m. 1, r. 5, m. 1, slip 1, r. 2 t., pass slip stitch over; m. 1, k. 3, +; repeat to the last, 3, k. 3.
13th.—K. 3, ✕[1] k. 2 t., k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, k. 3 t., k. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, k. 2 t. ✕. Repeat k. 3.
Footnote 1:
Instead of knitting two together at the beginning and end of the pattern, in this and the following rows, the worker will find that she must knit three together in the body of the Anti-Macassar and at the beginning and end of the row, only as directed in the text.
15th.—K. 3, ✕ k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, k. 3 t., k. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, k. 2 t., +; repeat, k. 3.
17th.—K. 2, k. 2 t., ✕ m. 1, k. 5; m. 1, k. 3 t., ✕. Repeat to the end of the row, when you will knit 3 together, and then 3 of the border.
Repeat from 7th to 18th rows inclusive, until sufficient is done; then knit 3 plain rows, and fasten off.
BORDER FOR ANTI-MACASSAR.—Same cotton and needles. Cast on 17 stitches.
1st.—Slip 1, k. 2, m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass slip stitch over; m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1., m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 1.
2nd.—K. 1, purl all but five, k. 5.
3rd.—Slip 1, k. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 1.
4th.—Like 2nd.
5th.—Slip 1, k. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, m. 1. slip 1, k. 2 t., pass slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 1.
6th.—Like 2nd.
7th.—Slip 1, k. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 5, m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k 1.
8th.—Cast off 5, purl all the remainder, except the last five, which knit plain.
NET FOR THE HAIR. [FIG. 10.]
MATERIALS.—Three good skeins of scarlet or blue netting silk; elastic ribbon and tassels to correspond; crochet hook, No. 12.
Make 6 chain, and form them into a round.
1st.—1 tc. into every chain, and 1 ch., after every tc., thus making 12 stitches in the round.
2nd.—1 tc. on one chain, 3 ch., miss tc. stitch. Repeat.
3rd.—✕ 1 tc. on the centre of the loop, 5 ch., ✕ repeat.
4th.—✕ 1 tc. on centre of loop, 7 ch. ✕ repeat.
5th to 10th rounds inclusive.—Like the last, increasing two chain at every round, so that 9 ch. are made in the 5th, and 19 in the 10th round.
11th.—3 tc., 3 ch., miss 3. Repeat.
12th.—✕ 3 tc. on 3 ch., 3 ch., miss 3, + repeat.
13th.—✕ 4 tc., 4 ch., miss 4, ✕ repeat.
14th.—+ 4 tc. on 4 ch., 5 ch., miss 4, + repeat.
The elastic ribbon is to be run in the 11th round, and tassels fastened to hang over the ear.
BERLIN WORK AND CANVAS EMBROIDERY.
It being one of the chief objects of the Proprietors of this little work, to present to the reader, in a very portable form, the clearest and most accurate elementary instructions for every kind of fashionable Needlework, I have selected BERLIN WORK or CANVAS EMBROIDERY as the subject for explanation in this part.
Berlin work is the general term for what might perhaps be more properly termed embroidery on canvas; a material with which, doubtless, most of my readers are well acquainted, although they may not be familiar with the names of the different kinds and sizes.
THE FRENCH CANVAS, (sometimes called _Patent_) is the one which I prefer for all ordinary purposes. The open squares are very exact, and the threads and selvage usually firm and strong. It is the only kind that is suitable for large pieces, or for wreaths, or any thing else, in fact, in which squareness and strength are essential.
PENELOPE CANVAS has the threads placed two and two in both directions; and took its name, I presume, from the appearance it presents of having been worked, and the work picked out again, like that of the faithful wife of Ulysses. As all trouble of counting the threads is saved, it is very easy to work on, but can only be worked in cross-stitch.
GERMAN CANVAS differs from the French in having every tenth thread a different color, and not being so true a square in the mesh.
It is altogether inferior to the French (or patent); and, (amongst other disadvantages,) has that of showing the colored thread through any light wool. Still, as it obviates, in some degree, the trouble of counting, many people like to work on it.
SILK CANVAS is a very expensive article; but it saves much labor, as designs worked on it do not require to be grounded. I should never advise any but white silk canvas being used, as the colored ones do not wear well. There are so many different qualities of silk canvas, that none should be bought without careful examination, by laying something of an opposite tint underneath it, and thus detecting any irregularities, roughnesses, &c., good silk canvas should be perfectly even.
Canvas is made of almost every variety of width; the narrow silk canvas being the proper size for braces.
Canvas is chosen according to its size, being numbered much like cotton, according to the number of threads in the inch. We seldom require a coarser size than No. 8, which contains 11 threads to the inch—10 has 13,—and so on to 24, which has 27 threads. The next number, 30, has 31 threads, 40 has 35, and 50, 37. We seldom use any finer than this.
There are not so many sizes manufactured of either silk or Penelope canvas; and the former is never made so coarse as the cotton article.
The surface of canvas is covered by being worked with various substances, of which silks, wools, chenille, and beads, may be considered the principal. Beads are now very much used, intermingled with silks and wools. For grounding large articles a new and very beautiful kind of wool has lately been introduced, termed _filoselle_. It works in admirably, and imparts a very rich effect to a design. It is about the size of Berlin wool which is fresh and good. For finer articles floss silk is common, and chenille may be worked on silk canvas with excellent effect.
Berlin wool may be used for almost any purpose; for, if too coarse, it can be split without injury; and if the reverse, two or three threads may be worked together. It should never be wound, for however lightly done it is certain to be injured.
Fleecy wool has been greatly improved both in texture and dye of late years, and may now be used for groundings and those purposes for which, formerly, it would have been quite unsuitable. It is much cheaper than Berlin wool.
English, or Embroidery wool, is a much stronger substance than Berlin; the dark shades are excellent for the ground of large pieces, but the lighter tints are not equal to those in the Berlin wool.
The chenille used for embroidery is called _chenille a broder_, to distinguish it from the _chenille ordinaire_, which is much coarser. The effect of flowers, birds and butterflies, worked in _chenille_, is rich and beautiful in the extreme, but the pile so easily attracts dust, and is so liable to injury, that it should be used only for articles which will be defended by glass. The needle used for chenille should have round eyes, and be sufficiently large to prepare a passage in the satin or canvas through which the chenille may pass without injury.
THE STITCHES USED IN BERLIN WORK.
There are but five stitches for canvas work, although many others are enumerated; for they are but varieties of the following:
CROSS-STITCH, TENT-STITCH, IRISH-STITCH, GERMAN-STITCH, GOBELIN OR TAPESTRY STITCH.
CROSS-STITCH is worked by bringing up the needle on the left hand, crossing two straight and two perpendicular lines, and putting in the needle on the right; bring the needle up on the right again, in the space which forms a right angle with the two already occupied; cross the first thread, and bring the needle under on the left hand again.
When grounding is done in this stitch, take care to avoid all appearance of lines and joins by using unequal length of wool, finishing each stitch before the next is begun. Grounding should be begun at the left hand lower corner and worked upwards.
[Illustration: THE LADIES OWN BOOK, AND COMPANION TO THE WORK TABLE.