PART III. DICK & FITZGERALD, NEW-YORK]

FOUR TENT-STITCHES, just occupy the space of one cross-stitch a tent-stitch being taken diagonally from one space to the next above it _to the left_.

TENT-STITCH and CROSS-STITCH are distinguished among the French by the names of _Petit point_ and _Gros point_.

IRISH-STITCH is extremely simple, and very rapidly done. It consists of a series of upright stitches which cross the horizontal lines, and are _worked between_ the perpendicular ones. For the first line, (beginning at the left hand corner,) bring up the needle in the lowest vacant space, and put it down in the fourth above it, allowing it to cover four bars of thread; bring up the needle on the line with the first stitch, with one upright thread between, and down on the third space, the wool covering two threads. Repeat these alternate short and long stitches, throughout the line. The next and following lines, _every stitch_ must cover four threads; and as you bring out the needle in the space in which you brought it down in the last row, the stitches are still alternately two threads higher than the intermediate ones.

GERMAN STITCH is very similar to the above; but the stitches are taken diagonally. The first stitch is taken from one space to the next diagonal one; in the second, one space is missed; so that the stitches are alternately long and short. All the following rows are worked like the first, care being taken that the long stitches of one row shall join the short, and _vice versa_. This stitch is only used for grounding.

GOBELIN STITCH is that which is more peculiarly fitted for delicate and beautiful picture working; but the needle requires a really artistic hand to direct it in forming patterns in this stitch. The wool crosses two threads in height, but only one in width; two tapestry stitches therefore, are equal to a cross-stitch, remembering that the square so formed is not a true one.

Some writers enumerate other stitches on canvas; but the best authors reckon the above named only, all others being merely varieties of them.

You will observe that any pattern may be made larger or smaller than the original when worked, simply by selecting the canvas that will effect the requisite alteration. When you choose your Berlin pattern, consider what size you will desire your work to be, and calculate by the scale I have already given you, what canvas will be needed; and also whether it will require to be worked in tent-stitch or in cross-stitch. If for the former you may reckon a thread of canvas for every square. For the most part, Berlin patterns are intended to be worked in tent-stitch; but some have each square in the more delicate parts divided into four. When this is the case, the mass _must_ be worked in cross, and the fine parts in tent-stitch; otherwise it is quite optional.

I must repeat my previous caution not to attempt Berlin patterns on German canvas. Figure pieces especially, would suffer materially in the effect from the want of squareness in the canvas. It is not advisable to attempt reducing very materially a pattern crowded with subjects; nor, on the other hand, to enlarge one that has few. The reason of this is obvious.

TO FRAME CANVAS.

There is considerable art in doing this properly; and if negligently arranged, it is certain that the work will be distorted when complete.

Turn down the canvas and herring-bone it at each raw edge: then sew it to the webbing of the frame, thread by thread. When the first end is sewed, take care that the other end shall be as nearly as possible opposite it. If too large for the frame, wrap some clean silver paper several times round the roller, before the canvas goes round it.

The part where the pattern is to be begun is the only part to be exposed in the frame. The sides must then be tightly braced with fine twine; and the canvas is then ready for the work. Berlin work is often done on canvas, with cloth, satin or velvet underneath it: this saves the labor of grounding, as the pattern being worked, the superfluous canvas is cut away, and the embroidery appears on the solid material. Some people draw out the threads of the canvas: this is not only very troublesome, but it also spoils the effect of the work. Small intermediate spaces of canvas, not covered with embroidery, are usually grounded with wool exactly the color of the cloth.

In framing cloth and canvas together, it must be borne in mind that the former stretches considerably more than the latter. If therefore, they are intended to be the same size, the cloth must be cut rather narrower, and (the edges being turned in,) must be firmly tacked to the selvages of the canvas. This will, of course, render the edges thicker than the centre; and to equalize the height, paper should be wrapt round the roller.

All patterns should be commenced at the left hand corner, unless they are intended for a _centre_; when the work must be begun on the centre stitch.

Delicate grounds should never be attempted on any but perfectly white canvas; and black grounds should always be avoided, if practicable.

The last direction I can give is to ensure a proper quantity of wool to begin with; as there is often great difficulty in matching shades, especially for grounding.

NEEDLES.

The needles principally used are _tapestry needles_, which are thick and blunt and have a long open eye,—_Sharps_, which are similar needles with sharp points, and are used for working on thicker substances than canvas,—as cloth, &c.; and _short long eyes_, which are used for the same purpose, and are like common needles, but very short, and with long eyes.

CROCHET COLLAR. [SEE FIG. 1, FRONTISPIECE.]

MATERIALS.—Crochet cotton, No. 30. Crochet hook, No. 20, or 21. Make 320 chain.

1st.—✕ 2 tc. in one chain, 1 ch., miss 1 ✕. Repeat.

2nd.—✕ 1 tc. under every chain, 3 ch., miss 2 tc. ✕. Repeat.

3rd.—✕ Sc. in every alternative loop of 3 ch., 8 ch. ✕; repeat.

4th and 5th.—✕ sc. through every loop with 8 ch. between ✕. Repeat.

6th.—dc. in every loop.

7th.—✕ 10 tc., 1 ch., 10 tc., without missing any; 8 ch., miss 6, 1 dc., 8 ch., miss 6 ✕, 12 times, but ending with the 2nd 10 tc.

8th.—10 tc. on first 10 of last row, 2 ch., miss 1, 9 tc., ✕ 8 ch., 1 tc. on dc., 8 ch., 9 tc., beginning on the 2nd of 10, 2 ch., miss 1, 9 tc. ✕ 10 times, 8 ch., 1 tc. on dc., 8 ch., 9 tc. (beginning on the 2nd), 2 ch., miss 1, 10 tc.

9th.—10 tc., 2 ch., miss 2, 8 tc. ✕ 6 ch., 1 tc. on tc., 4 ch., 1 tc. on the same, 6 ch., 8 tc., beginning on the 2nd of last row, 2 ch., miss 2, 8 tc. ✕ 10 times; 6 ch., 1 tc. on tc., 4 ch., 1 tc. on same, 6 ch., 8 tc. (beginning on 2nd of last row), 2 ch., miss 2, 10 tc.

10th.—10 tc., miss 2, 3 ch., 5 tc., ✕ 6 ch., 1 tc. in loop, * 4 ch., 1 tc. in the same loop * twice, 6 ch., 5 tc. (beginning on 3rd), 3 ch., miss 2, 5 tc. ✕ 10 times, 6 ch., 1 tc. into loop, † 4 ch., 1 tc. into same, † twice, 6 ch., 5 tc. (beginning on 3rd), 3 ch., miss 2, 10 tc.

11th.—16 tc. in 16 successive stitches, ✕ 6 ch., 1 tc. into first loop * 4 ch., 1 tc. into the same loop, * twice, 1 tc. into the next loop, † 4 ch., 1 tc. into same, † twice; 6 ch., 9 tc. in 9 successive stitches, beginning on the 3rd of the previous row, ✕ 10 times; 6 ch., 1 tc. into first loop, ¶ 4 ch., 1 tc. into the same, ¶ twice; 1 tc. into the next, (_a_) 4 ch., 1 tc. into the same (_a_), twice; 6 ch., 16 tc.

12th.—14 tc. ✕ 6 ch., tc. into first loop, 4 ch., 1 tc., into the same; 10 ch., 1 tc. into the last loop, 4 ch., 1 tc. into the same, 6 ch., 5 tc. (beginning on 3rd), ✕ 10 times; 6 ch., 1 tc. into 1st loop, 4 ch. 1 tc. into the same, 10 ch., 1 tc. into the last loop, 4 ch., 1 tc. into the same, 6 ch., 14 tc.

13th.—12 tc., ✕ 6 ch., * 1 tc., 4 ch., * 10 times through the 10 ch.; 6 ch., 3 tc., ✕ 10 times; 6 ch., † 1 tc., 4 ch. through 10 ch., † 10 times; 6 ch., 12 tc.

14th.—10 tc. ✕ 6 ch., 1 tc. under the 6 ch. of the last row; 4 ch., 1 tc.; repeat into each loop; 4 ch., 1 tc. under the 6 ch., 6 ch., 1 dc. on centre of 3 tc., ✕ 10 times; 6 ch., 1 tc. under previous 6 ch., 4 ch., 1 tc. in every loop as before; 4 ch., 1 tc. under 6 ch., 6 ch., 10 tc.

15th.—Sc. on end of the first row, 9 ch., sc. on 3rd row, 9 ch., sc. on 5th row, 9 ch., sc. on 8th row, 9 ch., sc. on 10th row, 9 ch., sc. on 12th row, 10 ch., sc. on first tc. stitch of last row, 10 ch., sc. on 8th tc. ✕ 4 ch., tc. under 6 ch. 4 ch., 1 tc. into each loop, ✕ repeat until you come to the last 9 tc. stitches, then repeat _backwards_ from before the 4 ch. to the commencement of the row.

16th.—Sc. 10 ch., sc. into every loop, until you come to the one of 4 ch.; then work 5 dc. into every loop, 10 ch. to the last 4 ch. End as you began.

17th.—Sc. 11 ch., sc. in every loop until you come to the 5 dc.; then ✕ 4 ch., sc. through every loop, ✕ to the last 5 dc. Make the second end to correspond with the first.

Those who crochet very loosely should use a hook still smaller than the one I have recommended; as the collar, to look well, should be done very tightly.

KNITTED LACE UNDERSLEEVE. [FIG. 2.]

MATERIALS.—Crochet cotton, No. 40; 2 steel knitting needles, No. 20. Cast on 101 stitches. Purl one row.

1st.—Knit 1, ✕ m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 1 ✕, repeat.

2nd.—Purled.

Knit from 50 to 60 rows in this manner, and cast off. This forms one puffing; and, of course, for a pair of sleeves, you will require four.

FOR THE INSERTION.—Cast on 13 stitches; knit one row, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1; then begin the pattern.

1st.—K. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t.

2nd, and every alternate row.—K. 3, p. 7, k. 3.

3rd.—K. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t.

5th.—K. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t.

7th.—K. 1, m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 5, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice.

8th.—As 2nd, which completes the pattern.

Do as much of this as may be required for the wrists, allowing a few plain rows at the end to set a button on; and also two pieces to be inserted between the puffs, which must be put rather full into the bands. At the top of the upper puff, sew on a muslin band, which may be tacked in the dress.

According to the present style of sleeves, the ruffle should not fall over the hand, but should be sewed at the other edge of the wristband with the puff, on which it must fall back. For cold weather, an undersleeve of sarsenet, made of the same dimensions as the knitted one, and tacked under it, will be found a very great improvement, and if of a colour that will harmonise with the dress, will be very becoming.

KNITTED LACE RUFFLE.—Cotton No. 50; Needles, No. 22. Cast on 17 stitches.

1st Row.—Knit 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 3, m. 2, k. 2 t., m. 2, k. 2.

2nd.—K. 3, p. 1, k. 2, p. 1, k. 3, p. 5, k. 5.

3rd.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, m. 1., k. 10.

4th.—K. 2, m. 2, k. 2 t., k. 1, k. 2 t., m. 2., k. 2 t., k. 2, p. 3, k. 6.

5th.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 2, m. 1, k. 3 t., m. 1, k. 4, p. 1, k. 4, p. 1, k. 2.

6th.—K. 12, p. 3, k. 6.

7th.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 2, m. 2, slip 1, k. 3 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 2, k. 2 t., k. 2 t.

8th.—K. 3, p. 1, k. 2, p. 1, k. 3, p. 5, k. 5.

9th.—Like 3rd.

10th.—Cast off 3, k. 6, p. 2, m. 1, p. 2 t., p. 1, k. 5.

This lace should be put on rather full; and on no account should knitted articles be ironed by the laundress. It is quite sufficient to pull them into proper shape whilst they are drying at the fire.

INSERTIONS IN EMBROIDERY. [FIGS. 7 & 8.]

Suitable for the fronts of shirts, and for other purposes; to be worked in satin stitch, with embroidery cotton, No. 80. The centres of the leaves and cups of the flowers may be done in very small eyelet-holes. The stalks sewn over with extreme neatness.

TABLE MAT. [FIG. 3.]

MATERIALS.—Shaded green and scarlet 8 thread Berlin wool; bone crochet hook. Make a chain of six and form it into a round.

1st Round.—12 dc.

2nd.—4 ch., miss 1 sc. in 2nd. stitch; repeat all round.

3rd.—Like 2nd.

4.—Scarlet wool; 6 ch., sc. under the loop of 4 ch.; repeat.

5th.—7 ch., sc. under 6 ch. of former round; repeat.

6th.—9 ch. worked as before.

7th.—12 ch. worked as before: fasten off the scarlet and begin with the green wool once more.

8th.—12 tc. on 12 ch. of last round, miss sc. stitch; repeat.

9th.—Sc. on 2nd. stitch, 2 ch., miss 1; repeat.

10th.—+ 1 tc., 3 ch., miss 3 +; repeat.

11th.—+ 1 tc., on tc. of last round, 4 ch. +; repeat.

12th.—+ Dc. on 4 ch. of last round, 1 ch. +; repeat.

13th.—[Scarlet wool,] 4 tc. on 4 dc. of last round, 1 ch.; repeat.

14th—+ 9 dc. on 9 stitches, of last round, 9 ch., dc. into same stitch as the last +; repeat.

15th.—6 ch., sc. in 3rd dc. of last round; repeat this twice more; 8 ch., unite into the loop formed by 9 ch. in last round; three times more, then repeat from the commencement of the 15th round.

16th.—Sc. in centre loop of 8 ch. in scallop; 1 ch., sc. into centre loop of 8 ch. in next scallop, 11 ch.; repeat.

17th.—12 ch., sc. in third stitch; repeat.

18th.—12 dc. through every chain of 12 in last round.

19th.—5 ch. unite with sc. on the point of the loop; repeat.

20th—Dc. all round, and fasten off.

GENTLEMEN’S KNITTED BRACES. [FIG. 4.]

MATERIALS.—Rich, dark blue, or crimson crochet silk; two knitting needles, No. 14. Cast on 19 stitches.

1st. Row.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, m,. 1, k. 2.

2nd.—P. 5, k. 1, p. 2, k. 1, p. 2, k. 1, p. 5.

3rd.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 2 t., p. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2.

4th.—P. 6, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 6.

5th.—K,. 2, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 2.

6th.—P. 8, k. 1, p. 8.

7th.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, slip 1, k,. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, k. 2.

8th.—Purled.

Repeat this pattern until you have done the length required for one half of the braces. Then cast on, and do another length. When made up, they should be lined with white Petersham ribbon, and finished with white kid trimmings.

SMALL GIMPS IN CROCHET [FIG. 5.]

MATERIALS.—Crochet cotton, No. 6; crochet hook, No. 18.

No.—1.—Make a chain the length required and then work back in dc. This is a very neat little trimming for children’s dresses; and if required to be made of silk and purse twist be used, will be found to answer every purpose for which a narrow gimp may be required. It forms also an excellent substitute for the braid which is run on the skirt of a dress, as the wools of which it should then be made, can be procured of any shade whatever, which the braid itself cannot.

No. 2.—Make a chain of the length required, and on it work 1 dc., 1 ch, miss 1.

JUDY’S ANTI-MACASSAR. [FIG. 6.]

MATERIALS.—Crochet cotton, No. 10; crochet hook, No. 16. 133 ch.

Four rows of open square crochet.

5th.—20 os., 4 dc., 3 ch., miss 3, 12 dc., 2 ch., 17 os., 1 dc.

6th.—10 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 os., 9 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 21 os., 1 dc.

7th.—10 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 59 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 13 os., 1 dc.

8th and 9th.—The same.

10th.—11 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 54 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 14 os., 1 dc.

11th, 12th, and 13th.—Like 10th.

14th.—12 os., 20 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 32 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 14 os., 1 dc.

15th.—Like 14th.

16th.—12 os., 20 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 14 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 14 os., 1 dc.

17th.—12 os., 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 18 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 13 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 14 os., 1 dc.

18th.—12 os., 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 18 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 15 os., 1 dc.

19th.—12 os., 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 13 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 15 os., 1 dc.

20th.—12 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 8 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 os., 1 dc.

21st.—12 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 14 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 9 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 16 os., 3, 1, dc.

22nd.—13 os., 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

23rd.—13 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 8 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 17 os., 1 dc.

24th.—14 os., 35 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 18 os., 1 dc.

25th—15 os., 40 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 15 os., 1 dc.

26th.—17 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 41 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 12 os., 1 dc.

27th.—17 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 12 os., 1 dc.

28th.—17 os., 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 2 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 1 os., 13 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 12 os., 1 dc.

29th.—16 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 3 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 os., 1 dc.

30th.—15 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 17 os., 1 dc.

31st.—15 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

32nd.—15 os., 23 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 13 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 16 os., 1 dc.

33rd.—15 os., 21 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 15 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 16 os., 1 dc.

34th.—15 os., 19 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 15 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

35th.—15 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 32 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 17 os., 1 dc.

36th.—16 os., 28 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 18 os., 1 dc.

37th.—16 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 29 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 17 os., 1 dc.

38th.—16 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 30 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

39th.—17 os., 25 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 3 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

40th.—15 os., 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 19 os., 1 dc.

41st.—14 os., 14 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 18 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 18 os., 1 dc.

42nd.—14 os., 15 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 5 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 os., 1 dc.

43rd.—14 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 22 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 os., 1 dc.

44th.—15 os., 17 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

45th.—14 os., 20 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 17 os., 1 dc.

46th.—13 os., 23 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 18 os., 1 dc.

47th.—12 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 8 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 29 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 18 os., 1 dc.

48th.—13 os., 35 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 19 os., 1 dc.

49th.—13 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 30 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 20 os., 1 dc.

50th.—13 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 15 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 20 os., 1 dc.

51st.—14 os., 13 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 8 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 20 os., 1 dc.

52nd.—14 os., 10 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 os., 5 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 21 os., 1 dc.

53rd.—15 os., 6 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 26 os., 1 dc.

54th to 57th inclusive.—In open square crochet.

The border to be the same as that given for Punch’s Anti-Macassar, in