PART IV. DICK & FITZGERALD, NEW-YORK]

In working from knitting receipts it is necessary to remember that no two people knit alike, and therefore, the needles which suit one person admirably, will be too large, or too small for another. I give the sizes which suit an ordinary worker; but those who are conscious of being very light, or very loose knitters, will do well to use needles one or two sizes coarser or finer.

I trust that the above observations will enable every reader to understand perfectly the receipts for various choice and beautiful patterns in knitting, which I shall introduce, from time to time, in our pages. I therefore proceed, at once, to the articles represented in the Engraving.

INFANT’S CAP CROWN. [FIG. 1.]

MATERIALS.—Cotton Nos. 70 and 90. Crochet hook, No. 22, eagle card-board gauge, and a fine sewing needle.

This cap crown is formed by a very pretty admixture of crochet with point lace stitches.

The sprig, which forms the centre as well as the border, is made in crochet, in a Honiton lace pattern. The mode of engraving, with figures to indicate the number of stitches in every part, is one invented by myself, already familiar to many of our readers, to whom it has been found extremely useful.

Work the crochet with No. 70 cotton. Begin the sprig at the end of the stem (_a_,) work up the two-leaved side, then the flower, and down the other side of the stem, beginning where you left off: 10 ch. for the stem.

LEAF, 30 ch., join in the first to form a loop; work the first and last stitches in _sc._ and all the rest in dc., three stitches being made in the centre chain; slip 1 at the joining of the loop; 16 ch. for stem; repeat the leaf with 20 ch. instead of 30; 10 ch. for stem.

FLOWER.—This is worked round and round, the right side being always uppermost, and the thread being passed under the stem at every round. The inner circle is made first; 18 ch., join into a loop, and work all round in sc. ✕ 5 ch., 1 dc. through every 3rd of last round, ✕ 5 times, 5 ch., slip 1 at the stem. Work round these in sc. * 13 ch., 1 sc. through dc. of last round * 5 times 13 ch., slip 1 on the stem. Sc. all round, working on the chain stitches only. Make a slip stitch at the stem to close the flower well; sc. on the 10 ch.; then make a leaf of 20 ch. opposite to the last; 8 sc. on chain.

BUD.—22 ch., 1 dc. on the 18th, ✕ 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., ✕ twice, 2 ch., miss 2, slip 1. _This forms the open part of the bud._ Work round it, 1 sc., 1 dc., 5 tc., 2 dc., 1 sc., 4 ch., 3 sc. on 4, 2 slip, 4 ch., 3 sc. on 4, 1 sc., 2 dc., 5 tc., 1 dc. 1 slip. Slip down the stem of the bud, sc. 8 on the flower stem, make a leaf opposite the first, work down the stem, and fasten off.

Take a fine needle, and run a few stitches on the wrong side with each end, when you may cut them off closely.

The BORDER which would serve very well for a collar, or any other article, is made thus:—32 ch. for each pattern, or 256 for the round. Close, to form it into a circle, and on one side of the chain work thus:—

1st round.—✕ slip 2, 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. * 2 ch., miss 2, 1 tc., * twice; 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, slip 2, 20 ch., miss 14, slip 2, ✕ 8 times.

2nd, or outer round.—(To be worked on the other side of the chain.) ✕ 2 slip on 2 slip, 1 sc., 1 dc., 1 tc., 8 long tc., 1 tc., 1 dc., 1 sc., ✕ 16 times.

3rd or inner round.—(To be worked on the first, beginning at the open hem.) ✕ 2 slip on 2 slip, 1 sc., 2 dc., 8 tc., 2 dc. 1 sc. 2 slip; then on the 20 ch., 1 sc., 7 dc., 1 sc., 1 slip, 12 ch.; form these into a loop, work round them in sc., then continue on the 20, 1 slip, 1 sc., 7 dc., 1 sc., ✕ 8 times. Fasten off, and put on the pearl edging with the ends of thread.

To make up the crown, draw a circle the size of the copy, on mounted paper, tack the crochet on it, and connect all the parts with open English lace worked in Evans’s boar’s-head, No. 90. (For the Point Lace Stitches, see Part III. of this work.)

Those who prefer it, may sew the crochet on a round of Brussels net, as is so generally done with real Honiton lace.

INITIALS.

[FIG. 2.]

MATERIALS.—Embroidery cotton, No. 70, white, and ingrain scarlet. These letters are particularly suitable for marking linen, and similar heavy articles. They should be done in satin stitch, with the white cotton, and then every part should have a fine scarlet thread run on each side of it, _surrounding the raised part_, and sewed closely over with the same ingrain scarlet cotton.

[FIG. 3.]

White embroidery cotton, No. 80. The work of these letters should be very delicately done, the eyelet-holes made with a coarse needle; the point of a stiletto would make them too large. These letters are suitable for handkerchiefs.

KNITTED BAG. [FIG 4.]

MATERIALS.—7 shades of pink, blue, or green German wool, 2 yards of silk cord to match, and 10 silver rings; bone needles, No. 8. Cast on 90 stitches with the darkest shade.

1st.—Slip 1, ✕ make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, ✕; repeat to the end.

2nd row.—Plain knitting. Do two rows in every shade progressively, until you come to the lightest, when you will knit four, then two of every shade back to the darkest, with which you will fasten off. Sew up the side.

For the foundation use four needles, No. 20. Pick up 30 stitches on each of three needles, and knit 3 plain rounds with the darkest shade but one.

4th round.—Make 1, k. 2 t., repeat.

5th.—(With the next lightest shade, continuing to change the wool every fourth round,) knit 12, knit 2 t., repeat.

6th.—Knit 11, knit 2 t., repeat.

7th.—Knit 10, knit 2 t., repeat.

8th.—Plain knitting.

9th.—Make 1, knit 2 t., repeat.

10th.—Knit 2 t., k. 9, repeat.

11th.—Knit 2 t., k. 8, repeat.

12th.—Knit 2 t., k. 7, repeat.

13th.—Plain knitting.

14th.—Make 1, k. 2 t., repeat.

15th.—K. 8, k. 2 t., repeat.

16th.—K. 7, k. 2 t., repeat.

17th.—K. 6, k. 2 t., repeat.

18th to 22nd.—Like the last 5.

23rd.—Plain knitting.

24th.—M. 1, k. 2 t., repeat.

25th.—K. 2 t., k. 5, repeat.

26th.—K. 2 t., k. 4, repeat.

27th.—K. 2 t., k. 3, repeat.

Take up the remaining stitches and sew up the centre, on the wrong side, with an embroidery needle.

LACET BAG. [FIG. 5.]

This bag is made, as its name implies, of _Braid_, (that is, Lacet); it is done very much in the manner of point lace.

Draw the pattern on colored paper, of the proper dimensions for the bag; paste a calico lining on the wrong side of the paper, and with colored silk braid go over all the black lines, fastening the ends of braid very neatly and securely to each other. Then all the double lines seen are to be worked in Venetian bars, and the single ones in Sorrento bars, with sewing-silk exactly the color of the braid. Work the Venetian bars on three or four threads, and run the needle in the braid from one to the next.

When complete, it must be removed from the paper, and another side done. The bag must then be made of silk that will harmonize well with the color of the braid, as green with violet, orange gold color, with maroon or purple, and so on. A steel clasp and tassels complete this elegant bag.

D’OYLEY IN SQUARE CROCHET. [FIG. 6.]

For full directions for Square Crochet, see Part I. this work.

MATERIALS.—Cotton, No. 36, with crochet hook, No. 22, eagle card-board gauge, will make this D’oyley a proper size for dessert.

For other purposes, coarser or finer materials may be used. A pretty edging should be worked all round it. One of the most suitable is that termed the Ivy-leaf Edging, in the “HOME CIRCLE,” No. 101, Vol. IV., or Fig. 8, on the frontispiece of this number, will do as well. I may here give a hint for which, doubtless, many of my readers will thank me. All the designs given for D’oyleys and Anti-Macassars in square crochet may be equally well worked in square netting, the pattern being darned in afterwards. The material used for Anti-Macassars should be good and strong knitting cotton, Evans’s Nos. 8 or 12; but D’oyleys look best done in Evans’s Mechlenburgh thread, Nos. 7 or 8, the design being darned in Mecklenburgh, No. 12.

Square Netting is done in the following manner:

Begin with one stitch only, and net backwards and forwards, increasing one stitch at the end of every row until as many squares are made as may be required, reckoning from the point up one side. Then decrease, in the same manner, until only one stitch is left. When stretched out, this forms a perfect square, every stitch being true. Should an oblong piece be required, (as for a Bread-basket D’oyley,) work to the widest part as already directed, then continue to increase at one side, leaving a stitch at the other, until as much more is done as may be necessary for the entire length. Finish as in the perfect square. Crests and coats of arms are particularly suitable for working in square netting.

CROCHET EDGING. [WORKED THE LONG WAY.]

[FIG. 7.]

MATERIALS.—For Anti-Macassars, use cotton No. 8; crochet hook, No. 16. For trimming petticoats, cotton, No. 30; crochet hook, No. 19 or 20. Make a chain of the length required; or, to trim an Anti-Macassar, work a row of sc. all round.

1st. row.—Dc.

2nd.—1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1. Repeat.

3rd.—+ 7 sc., 5 ch., miss 1, 1 dc., 6 ch., miss 1, 1 dc., 7 ch., miss 1, 1 dc., 6 ch., miss 1, 1 dc. 5 ch., miss 1, +. Repeat. (In working an Anti-Macassar, do not miss _any_ at the corners in this row, and take care that the 7 chain comes exactly at the corner. This will allow a sufficient fulness for the shell to lie flat.)

4th.—+ 5 sc. (beginning on the second of 5,) 5 ch., sc. under the first loop; * 6 ch., sc., 7 (7 sc. in last row,) 5 ch., sc. under first loop, * 6 ch., sc. under next loop, * 4 times, 5 ch., +. Repeat.

5th.—✕ 3 sc., (beginning on the 2nd of the 5,) 5 ch., sc., under the first loop; * 6 ch., sc. 7 under next loop, * 6 times, 5 ch., ✕. Repeat.

6th.—+ 1 sc. on centre of 3 in last row, 4 ch., sc. under first loop, * 5 ch., sc. under next. * twice, + 6 ch., sc. under next, + twice, † 5 ch., sc. under next, † twice, 4 ch., +. Repeat.

7th.—_Begin on the sc. stitch_, + 4 sc., 4 ch., slip the needle in the threads of the last sc. stitch, and draw the thread through, +. Continue thus all round. Work every stitch of the last row; the appearance is that a strong and solid edge, with dots at equal distances.

[WORKED THE SHORT WAY.]

This Edging being more suitable for trimming articles of the lady’s wardrobe than Anti-Macassars and D’oyleys, should be worked with Evans’s boar’s-head, No. 30, crochet hook No. 20; or for children’s dresses, cotton, No. 40, crochet hook, No. 22, eagle card-board gauge.

Make a chain of 17. Miss 7, dc. in 8th, 2 ch.; miss 2, dc. in 3rd, 5 ch., miss 5, dc. in last.

2nd.—Turn the work.—3 ch., 5 dc. on 5 ch., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., + 3 ch., miss 1, 1 dc., + twice, 4 ch., miss none, 1 dc.

3rd.—Turn the work. 5 ch., dc. under first loop, 3 ch., dc. under the second, 3 ch., 4 dc., (the 1st on 1st ch. of the next loop,) 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. on the chain immediately after 5 dc., 5 ch., miss 5 dc., dc. on third of the 3 ch. at the edge.

Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows until the required quantity is completed.

LADY’S CHEMISETTE.

[Illustration]

MATERIALS.—Cotton No. 40, crochet hook, No. 22, eagle card-board gauge.

Make a chain of 36 stitches.

1st.—Dc.

2nd.—Open square crochet.

3rd.—Dc.

4th.—Open square crochet.

5th.—Dc.

6th.—10 sc., 10 ch., miss 4, 1 dc. under 5th ch., 16 ch., miss 5, 1 dc. under 6th, 10 ch., miss 4, 1 dc. under 5th. Turn, and work the three loops in sc.; turn again, and work them in dc.; turn again, and work three scallops in the first large one, thus: ✕ 1 sc., 1 dc. in one stitch, 3 tc. in the next, 1 dc., 1 sc in the next, ✕ 3 times; then, on the large loop work six times in the same way, and on the other small, three times; finish the row in sc.

7th.—Turn the work; make 15 ch., 2 sc. on the 5th and 6th of the loop of 10, 7 ch., 2 sc. at the back of the second loop, in the eighth and ninth of the chain of 16; 7 ch., 2 sc. on fifth and sixth of the first loop of 10; 15 ch., 2 sc. on the last two stitches at the end of the row.

8th.—Turn the work, and do a row of sc.

9th.—Turn; 15 ch., 2 dc. over the middle loops of the first scallop, 15 ch., 2 dc. in the middle of the second scallop, 15 ch, 2 dc. in the third scallop, 15 ch.; sc. on the last stitch of the row.

10th.—Turn and work a row of dc.

11th.—Turn and work a row of open square crochet.

12th.—Like tenth.

13th.—Like eleventh.

14th.—Like tenth.

Then repeat from the sixth row, observing that as the first lace row has only one scallop and this has two, you must count the number of stitches in the last row, and leaving three from the centre for half of the space between the two flowers, and sixteen for the three loops, so that you will work in sc. from the beginning of the row to within nineteen of the centre; then the chain of ten, of sixteen, and of ten again, as directed in row 6, and six sc. stitches in the centre; the remainder of the row to correspond with the first part.

The rest of the Chemisette is to be worked according to the directions already given, observing, that as the number of stitches gradually increases, an extra scallop must be made in every new pattern, and care must be taken that they fall regularly between those of the previous row.

When a different depth is done, to come up to the neck, leave a space of two patterns or so, in the centre, and continue working at each side, not increasing at the outer edge, and diminishing every row at the inner one, in order to fit the neck.

It is to be set in a habit-shirt of net or Mull muslin, and two rows of crochet-lace put round the neck.

ANTI-MACASSAR. [FIG. 8.]

MATERIALS.—Cotton, No. 12. Crochet hook, No. 14. Eagle card-board gauge.

Make a chain of 9. Close in the 3rd for a round, leaving 2 chain. Work under this round 12 dc.

+ Sc. on 1st dc., 5 ch. miss 1, + 6 times.

+ Sc. on 1st stitch of the 1st chain of 5, 3 dc. on three next, sc. on 5th, slip on sc., + 3 times; repeat from the beginning until as many are done as may be required for the length of an Anti-Macassar, without a border. Turn, and work the three loops left in each flower, like the first three, with a single crochet stitch on the chain which connects them. Break off your cotton. 5 ch., dc. under each side of the centre stitch of the second loop, 9 ch., dc. in the same place of the next flower, and continue so to the end, leaving off with 5 chain. Work on this a row of dc., then an open row, thus:—1 tc., 1 ch., miss 1. Repeat.

The next row in dc.

Make another length of flowers, and join them to the last row, thus:—in working the second side of the flowers, join the middle loop to the last row of dc., at the same intervals as the previous row of flowers is united.

Repeat alternately the open hem and the flowers, until the Anti-Macassar is sufficiently wide, finishing with the three rows which form the open hem. Work an open hem at the other side, and at both ends, carrying the dc. all round. Beyond this is a round of small eyelet-holes which are thus worked:—✕, make a chain of 9, close in 7th for a loop, under which work 2 dc.; drop the loop off your hook, take up a loop of the edge of the Anti-Macassar, then the dropped loop and make 3 more dc. under the chain, reckoning as _one thread_ the dropped loop and that of the border, + repeat,—joining such eyelet-hole to every fifth chain of the Anti-Macassar. Work the 2nd side of the eyelet-holes at each corner, make a chain all round connecting it with the eyelet-holes in every fifth stitch. Next round, 1 dc. in the middle loop of the 2nd side of the eyelet-holes, 4 ch., repeat throughout the round with 5 _ch. at the corners_, dc. all round, working three stitches in one at the corners.

Next round, ✕ 1 tc., 1 ch., miss 1, ✕ all round, not missing any at the corners.

Next round, dc, with three in one at the corners.

Next, ✕ 5 dc. 5 ch., miss 1, 1 dc., 7 ch., miss 1, 1 dc., 5 ch., miss 1 ✕, repeat all round, taking care that the 7 ch. come exactly at each corner.

Next, sc. on each side of the 3rd dc., ✕ 3 ch., sc. in the loop of 5, 3 ch., sc. in the centre of the loop of 7, 3 ch., sc. in the 2nd loop of 5, 3 ch., sc. on each side of the 3rd of the 5 dc.

Next, sc. on a loop, + 3 ch., sc. on next, ✕, repeat all round, but with 5 ch. at the top of each Vandyke, and three chains of 5 at each corner.

This is one of the patterns which look extremely well when formed by an intermixture of cotton and wool, or colored and white cottons. A rich scarlet, green, or cerise wool may be used for all the eyelet-holes and the edge: the open-hems, throughout, in white cotton; or pink and drab cottons wash and wear extremely well, and possess the additional advantage of not being so soon soiled as white inevitably is, particularly in London.

CROCHET MAT.

[Illustration]

MATERIALS.—Berlin wool—3 shades of brown, 3 of green, 1 of violet, and 1 of yellow.

Make the eyelet-hole in the centre, with the lightest brown; 9 ch., form into a round, and work under it 18 sc. stitches.

Take the medium shade of brown and make 6 similar eyelet-holes, which are to be joined to each other, and to the centre one, by sewing them at the back with a rug needle.

With the darkest brown, make 12 more eyelet-holes, and having worked them all round in sc., join them to the 6, (2 to each) as seen in the Engraving.

Twelve heartsease must then be worked, thus: with violet wool make a chain of 5, close into a round, + 11 ch., sc. under the loop, + twice, 3 ch., slip at the back of the loops, work in dc. round the two loops, missing the last stitch of the first loop, and the first of the second, and working together the two stitches at the joining of the two loops. End with a sc. under the chain of five.

Take the yellow, sc. under the chain of 5, 9 ch., sc. under same, 11 ch., sc. under same, 9 ch., sc. under the same.

Slip on the round to the beginning of the yellow, and dc. the third violet and second yellow chain together; dc. all round the 9 ch., connect it to the 11 by two stitches, and then dc. round the 11; join the second 9 to the 11 by two stitches, and, at the last two, connect with the first violet petal. Fasten off, and sew the twelve heartsease round the eyelet-holes.

Take the middle shade of green, ✕ sc. on the left side yellow petal of the first heartsease, 12 ch., sc. on the right side yellow petal of the second, 9 ch., slip across the back of the flower, ✕; repeat all round.

With the same shade of green—✕ 7 dc. on the top of the violet petals of the first heartsease, 3 ch., 2 dc. on the centre loops of the 12 ch., ✕; repeat all round.

Dark green, 5 sc. ✕ 4 ch., miss 1, sc. the other three, 5 sc., 6 ch., miss 1, sc. 5 of them, 5 sc., 4 ch., sc. 3 of them, 10 sc. ✕; repeat all round, ending with 5 sc. The chains form veinings for leaves.

Second shade of green—sc. on sc., and tc. all round all the veinings, working two in one at every point.

Take the lightest green, and repeat the preceding round, working three in the two at the point of each vein, and catching the sides together.

With the same shade, work the scallops all round, + dc. in 1 stitch, 3 tc. in next, 1 dc. in next ✕: repeat.

ELEMENTARY INSTRUCTIONS IN TATTING OR FRIVOLITE.

For a considerable period the art of Tatting, long disused in this country, has been revived in the fashionable world; and like many other things which have disappeared for a time, has acquired greater lustre and beauty than it ever before possessed.

The exercise of the art of Tatting as known to our grandmothers, was merely an elegant apology for exhibiting a pretty hand and brilliant rings; the actual production was never more elaborate than a neat, but rather substantial edging for a child’s dress or a lady’s frill. No wonder that our friends on the other side of the Channel christened this apology for a lady’s idleness pre-eminently by the appropriate term _Frivolite_. At the late French Exposition of Industry, however, some very beautiful and elaborate specimens having been exhibited, this kind of work again became the rage, both in France and England; and doubtless the elegant pieces of Tatting which may be seen in our own Exhibition, will tend yet further to keep the work popular.

The only necessary instruments are the shuttle, or short netting-needle, and a gilt pin and ring, united by a chain. The thread used for _Frivolite_ should be strong and soft; something like knitting cotton.

The first point to be attended to in Tatting, is the mode of holding the hands. The shuttle, filled with thread in the manner of a netting-needle, should be held between the thumb and the first and second fingers of the right hand, about half a yard of the thread being unwound. Take up this thread two or three inches from the end, between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, letting the end fall in the palm of the hand; pass the thread round the other fingers of the right hand, keeping them rather apart from each other, and bring it again between the thumb and fore-finger, thus making a circle round the extended fingers.

Two stitches only are used in Tatting, and it is usual to do each alternately, as a prettier edging is thus formed than can be made in any other way. This is, therefore, called the _double stitch_.

The first stitch to be learned is termed the English Stitch. This is made in the following manner:—

Let the thread between the right hand and the left fall towards you, (as will be seen in the Engraving), slip the shuttle under the thread between the first and second fingers, and draw it out to the right rather quickly, keeping it in a horizontal line with the left hand. It will be found that a slipping-loop is formed on this thread with that which went round the fingers.

Hold the shuttle steadily, with the thread stretched tightly out, whilst with the second finger of the left hand, you slip the loop thus made under the thumb.

[Illustration]

I may here remark that when Tatting will not draw up, it is because the operation is reversed; and instead of the loop being formed by the thread round the fingers, it is formed by that connected with the shuttle. This is usually caused by the worker letting the thread from the shuttle hang loosely instead of drawing it out, and holding it at full stretch.

There is very little difference between the French and the English stitch. It simply consists in throwing the thread in a loop over the left, and inserting the shuttle _upwards_ under the circle round the fingers, instead of _downwards_, as in the English stitch.

The accompanying Engraving gives a clear idea of the manner in which this is to be done. The shuttle is drawn out, and the stitch formed exactly in the same manner as in the previous stitch.

[Illustration]

The two stitches thus made form one double stitch; and when as many are done, _and drawn close to each other_, as may be directed, the stitches are held between the first finger and thumb and the other fingers are withdrawn from the circle of thread, which is gradually diminished by drawing out the shuttle until the loop of Tatting is nearly or entirely closed. The tatted loops should be quite close to each other, unless particular directions to the contrary are given.

Sometimes Tatting is ornamented by a succession of tiny loops, something like pearl edging; these are made with the pin previously spoken of.

Slip the ring on the left hand thumb, that the pin, being attached to the chain, may be ready for use. Make as many double stitches as the directions prescribe, twist the pin in the circle of thread, and hold it between the fore-finger and thumb whilst making more stitches; repeat.

Tatting should always be done with a very cool, dry hand.

Common Tatting is merely a length of tatted loops, with or without picots.

Trefoil Tatting is done by drawing up tightly three loops, made quite close together, and then leaving a short space before making more. The Trefoil is sewed into shape afterwards with a common sewing needle.

A pretty variety may be made by trimming a number of large loops with others very much smaller, which should be sewed round them. In this case a little distance must be allowed between all the large loops.

I should always advise learners to use coarse crochet silk for their first attempts in Tatting, as it is very much easier to do with this material than with any other.

Tatting is usually sewed on net, for collars, &c. I, however, greatly prefer the effect when the Tatting is formed into a solid mass by the aid of Point lace stitches. Diagrams of all these may be found in Part III. of this work.

EMBROIDERY ON CAMBRIC.

[FIG. 1.] SUITABLE FOR THE CORNER OF A HANDKERCHIEF.

MATERIALS.—Ingrain red and white embroidery cotton, No. 80.

The design may be traced on the cambric from that given in the Engraving, and then worked in raised satin stitch; the flowers (excepting the calyxes) in red cotton, and the leaves, stems, and calyxes in white. The little dots in the flowers are raised.

[FIG. 2.] TO CONTAIN INITIALS.

MATERIALS.—Either the same as in the proceeding, or white embroidery cotton only. For a morning handkerchief, it would look very well in scarlet, the initials only being in white. The little rounds in this design are eyelet-holes very neatly sewed over.

KNITTED LACE COLLAR. [FIG. 3.]

MATERIALS.—Cotton, No. 40; needles, No. 24. Cast on fifteen stitches.

1st Row.—Knit 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over.

2nd, and every alternate row.—Purl all but two, and knit them plain.

3rd.—Knit 2, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over the knitted, k. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over.

5th.—Knit 2, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over.

7th.—Knit 4, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 2, m. 1, k. 1.

9th.—Knit 3, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2.

11th.—Knit 2, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 3.

12th.—As 2nd. Repeat until sufficient is done, then trim it with lace. Take up the stitches at the neck. Knit one row, taking two together every ten. Knit a few rows more and cast off.

For the edging, the same materials. Cast on sixteen stitches, and knit one plain row.

1st.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 2, * m. 1, k. 2 t., * 3 times, m. 1, k. 2.

2nd.—Pearl 11, k. 6.

3rd.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 3, * m. 1, k. 2 t., * 3 times, m. 1, k. 2.

4th.—Pearl 12, k. 6.

5th.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 2, m. 1, k. 2, * m. 1, k. 2 t., * 3 times, m. 1, k. 2.

6th.—Pearl 14, k. 6.

7th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., + twice, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, * m. 1, k. 2 t., * 3 times, m. 1, k. 2.

8th.—Pearl 15, k. 6.

9th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., + twice, k. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, * m. 1, k. 2 t., * 3 times, m. 1, k. 2.

10th.—Pearl 16, k. 6.

11th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., + twice, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 9.

12th.—Knit 1, ✕, k. 2 t., m. 1, ✕ 4 times, p. 7, k. 6.

13th.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2, ✕ twice, k. 2, m. 1, k. 3 t., m. 1, k. 11.

14th.—Knit 1, k. 2 t., ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ 4 times, p. 5, k. 6.

15th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 10.

16th.—Knit 1, k. 2 t., ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ 4 times, p. 3, k. 6.

17th.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 13.

18th.—Like 16th, but purl 2.

19th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., + twice, k. 2 t., k. 10.

20th.—Like 16th, without purling any.

21st.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 10.

22nd.—Plain knitting.

Repeat as often as may be required.

I may observe that this Edging is well suited for the trimming of a counterpane, or any similar large piece of work. It should, of course, be knitted in suitable materials.

SPANISH CROCHET EDGING [FIG. 4.]

MATERIALS.—Cotton, No. 16; crochet hook, No. 18; eagle card-board gauge.

29 ch., turn, sc. in 15th, 5 ch., slip into the same stitches, ✕ 7 ch., miss 4, sc. in 5th, 5 ch., slip into the same, ✕ twice, 7 ch., sc. in 1st ch.—this forms the foundation. You will now begin to work the pattern.

1st.—Turn the work, 7 ch., sc. under last 7, 5 ch., slip on the sc. stitch, ✕ 7 ch., sc. under next loop, 5 ch., slip on the sc. stitch, ✕ 3 times, 5 ch., sc. under the same loop.

2nd.—Turn the work, and slip 3 on 3 of the last 5 ch., + 7 ch., sc. under the next loop, 5 ch., slip on sc. stitch, + 3 times, 7 ch., sc. under last loop.

3rd.—Turn the work, ✕ 7 ch., sc., under the next loop, 5 ch., slip on sc. stitch, ✕ 4 times, 4 ch., 3 dc. under the same loop, 3 ch., 1 dc. in the last of the 3 slip of the preceding row, 4 ch., 1 dc. in the first of the 3 slip, 3 ch., 2 dc. and 1 sc. in the first loop of the foundation.

4th.—Turn the work, 3 ch., 3 dc. under first loop, 3 ch., 4 dc. under next, 3 ch., 3 dc. under next, 3 ch., 1 sc. under next, + 7 ch., sc. under next loop, 5 ch., slip through sc. stitch, + 3 times, 7 ch., sc. under the last loop.

As _Dentelles de Laine_ are at present such fashionable trimmings for aprons, dresses, and mantles, our friends would find such an edging as the above, done in black or colored Pyrenees wool, far more beautiful and economical than anything they can purchase. It may also be done in crochet, or netting silks, and would then be a most elegant trimming for the Mandarin sleeves, and _berthes_ of dresses.

When fine cotton edging is desired use No. 30, and crochet hook 20 or 21.

COLLAR IN FRIVOLITE. [FIG. 5.]

MATERIALS.—Bobbinet and fancy ditto, for the foundation of the collar. For the Frivolite, use Tatting-cotton, No. 3.

Cut out two collars, one in each kind of net, and connect them by a line of close button-hole stitch at the distance of an inch-and-a-quarter from the outer edge and ends. Then cut off the inner part of the fancy net and the outer of the plain, leaving thus one complete collar composed of two kinds of net.

Make in Frivolite twenty-five stars of eight loops each, all drawn up as closely as possible. The loops should consist of about twenty double stitches each; make also twenty-four eyelet-holes in Tatting; sew the stars and eyelet-holes alternate on the line of button-hole stitch, beginning and ending with a star. Then make as many loops (all at a distance from each other) as may be necessary to cover the plain net in the manner seen in the Engraving; sew them on along the lines of thread.

For the border, do a length of Tatting in alternate single and trefoil loops, with a small piece of thread between each; and, after whipping the net, sew the Tatting on. The corner trefoils should be larger than the others.

A narrow band of net may be put on the neck.

Ladies who prefer Crochet to Tatting, may work any pattern given for Frivolite in their favorite manner, by substituting dc. stitches instead of the double tatting stitches.

For working eyelet-holes in Crochet, I refer my readers to the instructions for the Anti-Macassar, in Part V. of this work.

COLLAR IN FRIVOLITE. [FIG. 6.]

MATERIALS.—Tatting-cotton, No. 3; shuttle and pin.

Make 22 trefoils thus: 18 double stitches for each loop, which must be drawn up quite tightly; three of these form a trefoil.

Make 22 trefoils, of 15 double stitches, in the same manner for the next row; and then a similar set of 12, 9, and 6 double stitches in each loop. Sew the trefoil of a collar of fancy net; put on 2 rows of tatted purled edging, as indicated in the Engraving, finish last line of Trefoils with a tatted round, and sew a muslin band round the neck.

FISH CLOTH. [FIG. 7.]

MATERIALS.—Cotton of the following colors: two reels white, two green, one dark blue, one light blue, one black, one lemon color. The colors will be indicated throughout by their respective initials. The cotton should be Nos. 10 or 12, and a very small quantity of Evans’s boar’s-head, No. 40; hooks, Nos. 10 and 20; eagle card-board gauge.

Begin by making the lemon slices thus:—with cotton, No. 40; hook, No. 20, make 1 chain of 12; close it into a loop, and work it all round in dc., taking the stitches under the chain. Do this four times, when all the pips will be made. With the yellow cotton, work a chain, connecting all these from point to point, in a circle. Work a round of white in the yellow, with two tc. stitches in every chain. Then a round of tc. in yellow on the white, with two stitches in every alternate one. This completes one lemon slice. Four of them must be made and sewed on the corners of the fish cloth after it is completed. The pips only are to be done with a fine needle and fine cotton.

With the coarse white cotton, and hook, No. 10, make a chain of 116; work eight rows in open square crochet.

9th.—17 os. in white, 1 dc. in dark blue, 3 dc. in light blue, 2 ch. in white, 2 dc. light blue, 18 open squares in white. Observe that in future rows the colors will be indicated by their respective initials.

10th.—17 os. w., 1 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 2 ch. w., 3 dc. l. b., 18 os. w.

11th.—17 os. w., 2 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b 2, dc. w., ? dc. l. b., 17 os. w.

12th.—16 os. w., 3 dc. d., 2 dc. l. b., 2 dc. b., (to form the eye), ? dc. w., 4 dc. l. b., 17 os. w.

13th.—16 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b., 4 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b., 17 os. w.

14.—16 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 4 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b., 16 os. w.

15th.—15 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 4 dc. l. b., 1 dc. d. b., 15 os., w.

16th.—15 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b., 6 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b., 1 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b., 1 ch. w.; open squares in white to the end.

17th.—15 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 6 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 6 dc. l. b.; open squares in white to the end.

18th.—14 os. w., ending with one chain, 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., dc. w., 2 dc. d. b., 1 dc. w., 6 dc. l. b.; finish with os. in white.

19th.—14 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 11 dc. w., 6 dc. l. b.; open squares to the end in white.

20th—14 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 13 dc. w., 6 dc. l. b.; finish with open squares in white.

21st and 22nd.—Like 20.

23rd.—13 os. w., 1 ch, w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 15 dc. w., 7 dc. l. b.; open squares in white to the end.

24th.—13 os. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 17 dc. w., 6 dc. l. b.; finish with white in os.

25th.—Begin on the first, leaving out the open squares. 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 19 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.

26th to 31st inclusive.—The same. Now turn back to the twenty-fifth row, and begin a chain in the last stitch of the light blue for the fin; let the chain be composed of twelve stitches; on that chain, work 2 sc., 3 dc., 7 tc.; turn, and work 7 dc., 2 sc., which will make it even with the row above, if the three last stitches are missed along this; work a row of sc. to unite it to the fish, as in the Engraving. Then work open squares in white from the row you first missed, then to the last, that is, the thirty-first row. Do the same on the other side of the fish, taking care that the lower fin reaches a little lower than the upper one. Begin the second fin on the twenty-sixth row.

32nd.—13 os. w., 1 ch. w., 4 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 17 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b; finish with open squares in white.

33rd.—13 os. w., 2 ch. w., 4 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 15 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b; finish as before.

34th.—14 os. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 13 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.; finish as before.

35th.—14 os. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 11 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.; finish as before.

36th.—14 os. w., 1 ch. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 9 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.; finish with white os.

37th.—15 os. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 7 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.; finish with white open squares.

38th.—15 os. w., 1 ch. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.; finish with white os.

39th.—The same.

40th.—15 os. w., 2 ch. w., 3 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 3 dc. l. b., 2 dc. 2 ch. w.; open squares in white to the end.

41st.—16 os. w., 2 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b., 2 ch.; open squares in white to the end.

42nd.—15 os. w., 1 ch. w., 2 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 7 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b.; open squares in white to the end.

43rd.—15 os. w., 2 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 9 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b.; finish with open squares to the end.

44th.—14 open squares in white, 2 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 4 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b.; open squares in white at the end.

45th.—14 open squares in white, 2 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 2 ch. w.;, 1 dc. l. b., 6 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 1 ch.; and open squares to the end in white.

46th.—14 os. w., 2 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b., 4 dc. w., dc. l. b., 1 ch., 1 dc., 2 ch., 1 dc., 1 ch., all in white, 1 dc. l. b., 4 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 1 ch. and os. in white.

47th.—14 os. w., 1 ch. w., 2 dc. d. b., 1 dc. l. b., 3 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 2 ch., 1 dc.. 2 ch., 1 dc.. 2 ch., all in white, 1 dc. l. b., 2 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 2 ch. and open squares to the end in white.

48th.—14 os. w., 1 ch. w., 2 dc. d. b., 1 dc. l. b., 1 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., ✕ 2 ch., 1 dc. ✕ 4 times, and 2 ch., w., 1 dc. l. b., 2 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 1 ch., and open squares to the end in white. Finish with eight rows of open squares in white cotton.

For the border, for which the green cotton is to be used:

Make a chain of 16, turn, miss 2, 2 sc., 3 dc., 4 tc., 3 dc., 2 sc., 1 ch., turn; work the same on the other side of the chain of 16, and fasten off.

This completes one leaf; let as many be done as may be required to go all round the D’oyley, rather more than twice. Then, with fine green cotton, sew the points of some, at regular intervals, round the Fish Cloth. Make a chain all round, connecting the base of the leaves at regular intervals. On the chain, work a row of sc., connecting the ends of the remaining leaves for the outer row.

Or the leaves might be made with a chain of 5 between each; the second row of leaves being worked on the other side.

CROCHET INSERTION.

WORKED THE SHORT WAY.

MATERIALS.—Cotton, No. 80. Crochet hook, No. 22.

Make 32 chain.

1st.—Miss 3, 2 dc., † 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., †, twice, 2 ch., miss 2, 7 dc., * 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. * 3 times, 2 dc.

2nd.—Turn the work; and, in this and the other alternate rows, take up the side of the stitch nearest to you, whilst in the intermediate you take up the side farthest from you. 3 ch., twist them, miss 1, 2 dc., * 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. * 5 times, 3 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 dc.

3rd.—(Turn the work.) 3 ch., twist, miss 1, 2 dc. on dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 7 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 dc.

4th.—(Turn.) 3 ch., twist, miss 1, 2 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., + 2 ch., miss 2, 4 dc., + twice, 2 ch., miss 2, 3 dc.

5th.—(Turn.) 3 ch., twist, miss 1, 2 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. +, 2 ch. miss 2, 4 dc., + twice, 2 ch., miss 2, 3 dc.

6th.—(Turn.) 3 ch., twist, miss 1, 2 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 7 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 dc.

7th.—(Turn.) 3 ch., twist, miss 1, 2 dc., ✕ 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. ✕ 6 times, 3 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 dc.

8th.—(Turn.) 3 ch., twist, miss 1, 1 dc., ✕ 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., ✕ twice, 3 dc., * 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. * 4 times, 2 ch., miss 2, 3 dc.

Repeat until sufficient is done for the purpose required.

It may be necessary to explain the meaning of the word _twist_. In working a crochet pattern backwards and forwards, or in carrying the thread from one round to another, _without joining_, in a round crochet pattern, the neatest way is to make three chain, and then twist them, letting the loop drop off the needle for the purpose and resuming it; this looks quite sufficiently like a dc. stitch for all ordinary purposes.

NETTED SCARF.

MATERIALS.—6 oz. light blue filoselle, 1 oz. each of white and of claret ditto. When winding the skeins, split them in half and the threads will then be quite sufficiently thick. Begin with the border. Take a round mesh, No. 4, [the size of a common pen-holder,] make 1 stitch.

2nd.—Net 2 in 1.

3rd and succeeding rows.—Add one stitch at the end of every row until you have thirty one stitches in the row, when you will net two as one. The next row, you will increase one at the end; the following one you will diminish until you have done fifty rows in this manner, then decrease at the end of every row until one stitch only remains.

This being done in white filoselle, may be darned in a handsome pattern with the claret. A second piece must be done in the same way. Then two bands, each half the width of this, must be made in light blue, to one side of which a handsome fringe must be sewed, and to the other the white netting. The body of the scarf must also be done in the blue filoselle.

Any handsome scroll or pattern for square crochet, which is not more than thirty squares wide, may be used for darning the border of the scarf.

NIGHT CAP IN CROCHET.

[Illustration]

MATERIALS.—Cotton, No. 12; crochet hook, No. 16; eagle card-board gauge; 184 chain. This pattern is worked principally in close and open squares.

1st.—4 o., + 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 7 o., + 5 times, 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 4 o., 1 dc.

2nd.—3 o., + 2 c., 1 o., 2 c., 5 o., + 5 times, 2 c., 1 o., 2 c., 3 o., 1 dc.

3rd.—5 o., + 1 c., 9 o., + 5 times. 1 c., 5 o., 1 dc.

4th.—1 slip, 3 ch., miss 2, 2 o., + 2 c., 1 o., 2 c., 5 o., + 5 times, 2 c., 1 o., 2 c., 2 o., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 slip.

5th.—1 slip, 3 ch., miss 2 to 2 o., 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 7 o., 5 times, 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 2 o., 3 ch., 1 slip on the dc. of last row.

6th.—1 slip on the first dc. of the last row, 3 ch., miss 2, open squares to the last; then 3 ch., miss 2, slip 1 on the last dc.

7th.—1 dc. on the last of the 3 ch. of the preceding row, 1 dc. on the dc. of the last row, 6 o., + 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 7 o., + 4 times, 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 6 o., 2 dc.

8th.—2 dc., + 5 o., 2 c., 1 o., 2 c., + 5 times, 5 o. 2 dc.

9th.—2 dc., 7 o., + 1 c., 9 o., + 4 times, 1 c., 7 o., 2 dc.

10th.—2 dc., + 5 o., 2 c., 1 o., 2 c., + 5 times, 5 o., 2 dc.

11th.—2 dc., 6 o., + 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 7 o., + 4 times, 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 6 o., 2 dc.

12th.—dc.; open squares to the two last stitches, 2 dc.

13th.—2 dc., 1 o., + 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 7 o., + 5 times, 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 1 o., 2 dc.

14th.—1 dc., + 2 c., 1 o., 2 c., 5 o., + 5 times, 2 c., 1 o., 2 c., 1 dc.

15th.—2 dc., 2 o., + 1 c., 9 o., + 5 times, 1 c. 2 o., 2 dc.

16th—Like 14th.

17th.—Like 13th.

18th.—Like 12th.

19th.—2 dc., 6 o., + 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 7 o., + 5 times, 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 6 o., 2 dc.

20th.—Like 19th.

21st.—Like 9th.

22nd.—Like 10th.

23rd —Like 11th.

24th and 25th.—Like 12th.

26th.—Forms half the band at the back. + 2 dc., 5 o., (_a_) turn; 5 ch., miss 2, 4 o., 2 dc., + 4 times between the crosses, and then to (_a_) once,. Slip down the upper side to the top of the last dc. stitch, in the twentieth row; so the first row of the follow point is merely a _continuation_ of the twenty-sixth row.

1st.—TRIANGULAR POINT: 2 ch., miss 2, 8 o., 1 dc., turn, 3 ch., miss 2, 8 o., (taking care that the dc. stitches come over those of the previous row), 1 dc., turn, 3 ch., miss 2, 7 o., 1 dc. on dc., turn, 3 ch., miss 2, 6 o., 1 dc. on dc., turn, 3 ch., miss 2, 5 o., 1 dc. on dc., turn, 3 dc., miss 2, 4 o., 1 dc, on dc., turn, 3 ch., miss 2, 3 o., 1 dc. on dc., turn, 3 ch., miss 2, 2 o., 1 dc., on dc., turn, 3 ch., miss 2, 1 o., 1 dc. on dc., turn, 5 ch., miss 3 dc, on dc.; slip stitch up the side of this point to the twenty-sixth row again, which is thus entirely formed by the first rows of the points. Work five points and you will have stitches enough left for five open squares at the end, which are to be worked to correspond with the other half of the band at the back of the neck. Sew the ends of the bands together, leaving the Vandyke loose.

Work round the inside of the band and round the Vandyke, thus:—

1st round.—5 ch., miss 2, 1 sc.

2nd.—1 sc. under the chain, 6 ch.; repeat.

It will then be necessary to put a border to the cap itself; and either any pretty one may be worked on that is already given in this work, or, if a narrow one be preferred, the following may be adopted:—

1st.—✕ 1 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, ✕; repeat all round except that at the corners you will work, * 1 dc., 2 ch., miss _none_, * three consecutive times.

2nd.—1 sc., 5 ch., miss 3 all round.

3rd.—✕ 1 sc., 3 dc., 1 sc., under the loop made by one chain of five of the last round, 3 ch., 1 sc. under the next loop of 5, 3 ch. ✕; repeat.

Plait a cord of narrow braid, and make tassels of the same; run them through the top of the band at the back, when the ends are sewed together, and through the point of each Vandyke, and draw it up when on the head.

CROCHET EDGING. [WORKED THE SHORT WAY.]

MATERIALS.—Cotton, No. 20. Chain of 20 stitches; form into a loop.

1st.—5 ch., + miss 1, 1 dc., 2 ch., + 5 times, 1 dc.

2nd.—9 ch., 1 dc. into loop, + 2 ch., 1 dc. in next, + three times, 7 ch., 1 dc. in last.

3rd.—5 ch., 1 dc. in large loop, + 1 ch., 1 dc. in same, + 6 times, 2 ch., 1 dc. in next loop, 2 ch., 1 dc. in next.

Turn the work, and repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows until sufficient is done.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

Page Changed from Changed to

30 10th.—All White: cast of 2, k. 10th.—All White: cast off 2, k. 2, p. 9, k. 4. 2, p. 9, k. 4.

45 come to the last 9 tc. stitches, come to the last 9 tc. stitches, when repeat backwards then repeat backwards

11th.—+ 1 tc., on tc. of last 11th.—+ 1 tc., on tc. of last 48 round, 4 ch. ✕; repeat. 12th.—+ round, 4 ch. +; repeat. 12th.—+ Dc. on 4 ch. of last round, 1 Dc. on 4 ch. of last round, 1 ch. ✕; repeat. ch. +; repeat.

80 bolland, trimmed with worsted holland, trimmed with worsted braid. There are braid. There are

83 12th.—✕ 3 tc. under 6 ch., 3 tc. 12th.—✕ 3 tc. under 6 ch., 3 tc. under next 6 ch., 12 ch., + under next 6 ch., 12 ch., ✕

83 4 times, ✕. Then repeat from the 4 times, +. Then repeat from the beginning. beginning.

83 5 ch. of last row, * 4 times, +. 5 ch. of last row, * 4 times, ✕. Repeat to the Repeat to the

85 miss 2, 7 dc., 2 ch. miss 2, 1 miss 2, 7 dc., 2 ch. miss 2, 1 do. dc.

95 under next loop, * 6 times, 5 under next loop, * 6 times, 5 ch., +. Repeat ch., ✕. Repeat

106 5th.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., + 5th.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 2 twice, k. 2

107 19th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ 19th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., + twice, k. 2 twice, k. 2

108 next loop, 5 ch., slip through next loop, 5 ch., slip through sc. stitch, ✕ 3 sc. stitch, + 3

11th.—17 os. w., 2 dc. d. b., 3 11th.—17 os. w., 2 dc. d. b., 3 110 dc. 1 l. b 2, 2 dc. w., dc. l. dc. l. b 2, dc. w., ? dc. l. b., b., 17 os. w. 17 os. w.

110 b., (to form the eye), dc. w., 4 b., (to form the eye), ? dc. w., dc. l. b., 17 4 dc. l. b., 17

111 l. b., 15 dc. w., 5 do. l. b; l. b., 15 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b; finish as before finish as before

113 twist them, miss 1, 2 dc., * 2 twist them, miss 1, 2 dc., * 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. + ch., miss 2, 1 dc. *

114 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. + 6 times, 3 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. ✕ 6 times, 3 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 dc. dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 dc.

115 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 7 o., + 5 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 7 o., 5 times, times, 1 c., 1 1 c., 1

116 19th.—2 dc., 6 o., + 1 c., 1 o., 19th.—2 dc., 6 o., + 1 c., 1 o., 1 c., 7 o., ✕ 5 1 c., 7 o., + 5

1. Silently corrected palpable typographical errors; retained non-standard spellings and dialect. 2. Reindexed footnotes using numbers. 3. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.