Part 2

Traversing the vicinity of the castle, our Welsh guide pointed out to us a field at about two miles distance, called Cavan, in which Prince Llewellyn is reported to have been buried, and so fertile he observed was the soil, that each stem bore two heads of corn. From the same authority, we are told that as that Prince was one day crossing the field in disguise, he asked of an old woman the name of a small brook that ran across it, who replied, it was called Nantytrrad, then said he, let it in future be named Cwm Llewellyn, for that shall be the burial place of that Prince. Where is there a Welchmen who does not deplore the loss of his brave Llewellyn? but our guide drew much consolation from there being yet a good Prince of Wales, who in the hour of need, would certainly defend and fight for his countrymen. Llewellyn is reported to have been murthered in a small castle that stood at a place called Llechryd, about one mile from Builth, while he was meditating his escape into Glamorganshire. A modern house, with a moat surrounding it that includes about three acres, marks the spot whereon the castle stood. Builth Castle is well situated for defence, it stands on an eminence, and the point of land, is in part surrounded by the beautiful river Irvon, which in a semicircular direction winds its course into the Wye, about half a mile above the town. This river is of considerable width, and derives its source from the hills in the vicinity of Strata Florida in the county of Cardigan; thence after taking a south west direction it winds towards the north east, and falls into the Wye near Builth. Within a small distance of its junction with our river, it receives a brook called the Wevery, which rises on the Brecknockshire hills about eight miles distant, and produces remarkable high flavoured salmon and trout.

Near to the Wye a new stone bridge is building over the Irvon, contiguous to the old one which was of wood. This new structure consists of six elliptical arches; it is erecting at the joint expence of the counties of Brecon and Radnor. The elevated span of the upper circle of this bridge, however necessary here from the great floods that happen in the winter season, is yet a taste too prevalent in the general construction of our bridges. The bed of the upper surface is usually so high as to become a large segment of a circle; this custom militates not only against every principle of utility to the horse and traveller, but shuts out the general prospect, which even by an artist whose ideas are not too narrowly confined to his own science, should in a country like this be made an object of some consideration.

In Italy and France, a contrary system has very judiciously been adopted, by which means, in every point of view the eye finds relief from the diversified scenery around. This practice is supported by the classical productions of the elegant Claude Lorraine, who, whether he designs from nature, or has recourse to his own refined ideas of his art, always adheres to this principle. Near Builth are the remains of Llandrindod-wells, once in high esteem, and celebrated for their excellent medicinal quality. This spring of water issues out of the side of a rock, which is of the slate kind, it is strongly impregnated with nitrous salt, sulphur, and steel; and produces an effect similar to the waters of Scarborough and Cheltenham, but it is of a more powerfully quality. The wells are now greatly in decay, and consequently are not so much frequented as formerly. On a high hill named Caven Durris, about a mile from Builth, David Thomas, Esq.; has erected a handsome stone residence, which when viewed from the town, appears too much exposed, but on a near approach, is found to be happily screened from the northern winds by the surrounding hills: It commands a very noble and extensive view, as well on its own level towards the South, as from that part which looks down towards the town of Builth, and at the same time includes a beautiful command of the meandering course of the rivers Wye and Irvon, and of the extensive bridge of Builth in the vale beneath. This bridge is a simple and well constructed modern edifice, consisting of six arches, within a mile of which a small river called the Dihono having a small bridge of one arch thrown over it, empties itself into the Wye. From the ferry a little below, a beautiful reach of the river terminates in a view of the small remains of Aberadway castle, of which no history is to be traced. Its ruin is very insignificant, little more than a stone wall, now over grown with ivy remains. At the extremity of it are the fragments of two round towers. These rude specimens of art, are finely contrasted by the adjoining and truly wonderful productions of nature. These are an immense range of rocks running parallel with the river, exhibiting a variety of the most strange and fantastic forms imaginable. In different points of view, they convey to the mind, the idea of so many towers and castles shouting from amidst the oak coppices and other shrubs that enrich this majestic scenery. These vast prominencies in their various shapes, received at the instant of viewing them, additional grandeur and effect from the solemn shade, produced by a declining sun, and presented a scene truly worthy the pencil of a Salvator, or amongst our countrymen, his rival, the late John Mortimer. Near this charming spot, the river Edwa, from which these rocks derive their name, empties itself into our river. For a considerable distance in passing down the Wye, we have on a smaller scale perpetual breaks of the same rocky kind of scenery till we reach Llangoed, the seat of Mr. Edwards; from hence we ride through a charming wood of young oaks, ranged for a considerable distance on an elevated bank of the Wye, they give at each break and opening, an enchanting view of our beautiful and picturesque river, which on the approach to a village called Swains, about a mile distant, wears the appearance of an extensive bay, while the mountains in the back ground gradually recede, and the general face of the landscape assumes a new character. In the annexed view of Glasebury, the scene when contrasted with that at Aberedway or at Builth, will best illustrate this idea, here all around wears an air of placidity; the river’s rocky bed no more agitates the water in its course, it flows a tranquil and a gentle stream, reflected on whose glassy surface under the evening’s lengthening shade

“Down bend its banks, the trees depending grow; “And skies beneath with answ’ring colors glow.

In the midst of this rich and beautiful valley, an elegant stone bridge of seven arches is thrown across the river. It was built about fourteen years ago by the family of Edwards, under the direction of their father, the celebrated architect of Pont-y-pridd. The adjoining view was made in August, 1794; in the ensuing winter the bridge was totally destroyed, which will in some degree give value to this sketch, as a memorial of that which is at present, little more than a wreck; every arch of it having been blown up by the torrent of ice, which poured down on the very sudden thaw, after the long frost in the beginning of 1795.

SECTION III.

On our approach to the town of Hay, we pass its small church, situated on a high and clayey bank of the river, from whence the town and adjoining objects, afford little worthy the attention of the artist. To preface this section, I have therefore selected a general view of the town and surrounding country, from a spot about a mile below the bridge, which presents a scene highly enriched by an assemblage of woods, meadows, and corn fields, at once extensive, and in a peculiar degree interesting.

The town is happily situated on the declivity of a hill, on which the houses rising gradually, convey the idea of a place of infinitely more consequence than really it possesses, and in no small degree gives the general outline of an Italian landscape. The face of this scenery and bridge is fully illustrative of the position laid down in the last section, of the superior beauty of flat bridges over those that are elevated. This bridge is formed of seven arches and in the year 1795, met with a similar fate to the preceding one, and which were thrown across the torrents that pour themselves along the vallies of this mountainous country.

The purple hue of the distance called the black mountains, affords a good background to this scenery, which is heightened by the rich glow of a noon-tide sun, darting at the instant, and giving force and relief to every object. These mountains extend fourteen or fifteen miles towards a place called Monmouth Cap, about eight miles from Abergavenny. The head of water in the fore ground of the view, is formed from a small river called Boonewayne Brook, which supplies the neighbouring mill with water; the goat who stood browsing on a high bank of the river before us, was an object we were not accustomed to meet with even in Wales, as I do not remember to have seen more than three, in the course of a long tour through this country.

The town of Hay was formerly called Hain, it derives its name from the British word Tregelhi, which, says Camden “may be rendered Hasely, or Hasleton; it appears to have been well known to the Romans, some remains of their walls being still visible, and many of their coins having been found here.” He likewise says “the ancient town was consumed by fire by the profligate rebel, Owen Glyndwr or Glendower, in his marches through this country.” Our divine bard has put the following lines into the mouth of Glendower, when speaking of his antagonist.

“Three times hath _Henry Bolingbroke_ made head “Against my pow’r, thrice from the banks of _Wye_, “And sandy-bottom’d _Severn_, have I sent “Him bootless home, and weather-beaten back.”

This place anciently belonged to William de Brus, Lord of Brecknock, and was nearly destroyed by Lewis, Dauphin of France, in 1216, who had been invited into England by the Barons disaffected to King John.

The town of Hay is situated on the extreme angle of Brecknockshire, and on the borders of Herefordshire. Near the church, on the highest land on the brink of the river, there anciently stood a castle built by the Normans, of which little more now remains than a mound of earth, and the entrenchments that surround it. The present castle stands nearly in the centre of the town. Its Gothic entrance, and the Ivy over-growing the remains of the ancient tower, produce a striking effect on the approach to this venerable ruin.

A large house adjoining, is the property of Richard Wellington, Esq.; It is erected on the site of the old castle, and appears to have been the work of the age of James I. Within a few years, it has been modernized, by which it has in some degree been stripped of that small share of the picturesque, that in some instances is to be found even in that barbarous age of architecture. As the castle is not generally noticed by the traveller, nor has any print that I can learn, ever yet been given of it, the annexed view may not prove unacceptable to the curious enquirer. On quitting Hay, the Wye receives a considerable body of water from the river Dulas, across which is a stone bridge of one arch. Thus assisted, our river becomes a copious stream, and has been long rendered navigable in the winter seasons. For this purpose two statutes were passed in parliament, the one in the fourteenth of Charles II. the other in the seventh of William III.

About two miles below the town, the ruin of the once famous Clifford castle presents itself; it stands on a considerable eminence on the bank of the Wye, is well situated for defence, and forms a boundary to the western part of the county of Hereford. Its walls are not sufficiently high, nor are the parts so broken and irregular as to afford a complete picturesque object, but it has yet considerable attractions to merit the notice of the speculative and inquisitive traveller. Camden says, that it is recorded in doom’s-day book, to have been built by William Fitzosborn, Earl of Hereford. It came afterwards to Walter, the son of Richard de Ponts, a Norman, who came into England with William the Conqueror. Walter took his name of De Clifford from this castle, and from him descended the illustrious family of the earls of Cumberland. We shall not enter into a detail of the warlike exploits performed in this place, but confine ourselves to the well known story of fair Rosamond, daughter of an earl of Clifford, who was born in this castle. The story, whether fabulous or true, has been deemed not unworthy the attention, both of the poet and historian. Master Hollinshead in his usual quaintness of style, thus speaks of King Henry the second’s incontinence, and of his particular attachment to the fair Rosamond, “for not contented with the use of his wife, he kept many concubines, but namely he delighted most in the companie of a pleasant damosell, whome he ’cleped the rose of the world, the common people named hir _Rosamond_, for hir passing beautie, propernesse of person, and pleasant wit, with other amyable qualities, being verily a rare and peerelesse peece in those days. He made for hir an house at Woodstocke in Oxfordshire, like to a laberinth, that is to meane, wrought like a knot in a garden, called a maze, with such turnings and windings in and out, that no creature might finde her nor come to hir, except he were instructed by the king, or such as were secrete with him in that matter. But the common report of the people is, that the queene finally found her out by a silke thread, whiche the king had drawne forth of hir chamber with his foote, and dealte with hir in such sharpe and cruell wise, that she lived not long after. She was buried in the Nunrie of Godstow beside Oxforde, with these verses upon hir tumbe.”

“Hic jacet in tumulo, Rosamundi non Rosamunda, “Non redolet sed olet, quæ redolere solet.”

We cannot quit this subject, the family of the De Cliffords, without adverting to another of its noble descendants, George Clifford, the third earl of Cumberland, who in 1525, was advanced to the dignity of an earl. The seats of this adventurous and renowned warrior, are transmitted to us by various historians, and though to many persons they may be well known, yet some mention of him in this place, may not be thought irrelevant to our subject. This nobleman was one of the peers who sat in judgment on Mary Queen of Scots, and became afterwards a great favourite of her cousin Elizabeth. He signalized himself highly at sea in various engagements against the Spaniards, and behaved with much intrepidity during the memorable encounter with the invincible Armada. In consequence of his gallantry the Queen created him an Admiral, and a few years after, a Knight of the Garter; he was likewise one of the lords sent out with the forces to reduce the Earl of Essex. He died in London at the Savoy, at the age of forty seven, in the year 1605.

We cannot pass over a striking instance of gallantry, in this extraordinary hero, as recorded by Mr. Pennant, which appears fully to keep pace with his bravery as a naval commander. “At an audience, which the earl had after one of his expeditions, Queen Elizabeth, perhaps designedly, dropped one of her gloves. His lordship took it up, and presented it to her; upon which she graciously desired him to keep it as a mark of her esteem. He adorned the glove with diamonds, and wore it in the front of his high crowned hat on days of tournament.” This circumstance is recorded in a very curious and rare print of the earl, engraved by Robert White, in which the glove appears. Another instance of the queen’s favor to this earl of Cumberland, was, her appointing him her champion in her tilting matches, in which exercise he excelled all the nobility of his time. His magnificent armour worn in this age of chivalry, was adorned with roses and fleur de lis, and is now preserved at Appleby Castle in Westmoreland. He married Margaret, third daughter of Francis earl of Bedford, by whom he had three children, two sons who died young, and a daughter named Anne, who was successively married to Richard earl of Dorset, and to Philip earl of Pembroke and Montgomery.

This lady appears by the following letter to have inherited with the family estates, all the bravery and spirit of her great ancestors. Sir Joseph Williamson, when secretary of state to Charles the II. wrote to the Countess, wishing to name a candidate to her for the borough of Appleby, to which she returned the following spirited answer “I have been bullied by an usurper, I have been neglected by a court, but I will not be dictated to by a subject. Your man shan’t stand.”

“ANNE, DORSET;

“Pembroke and Montgomery.”

Dr. Campbell, in his Philosophy of Rhetoric, highly commends the expression of this letter, he says, “an ordinary spirit would have employed as many pages to express the same thing, as there are affirmations in this short letter.” Of this extraordinary lady, Dr. Donne remarked, “that in her younger years, she knew well how to discourse of all things, from predestination, to slea-silk.”

From this digression, which we hope will not prove uninteresting, we return again to the main subject of our enquiry.

The winding and mazy course of the Wye in about two miles, brings us to Whitney, where, in 1794, the piers and part of the arches of a new stone bridge were in great forwardness, but in the succeeding spring, the whole was swept away by that hidden thaw and torrent, whose devastations we have more than once had occasion to notice. In this unfinished state, the busy scenery of the various artificers at work, a ferry boat perpetually in motion, and the distant village church, peeping above the hills in the back ground, produced altogether a subject well worthy the pencil; but from the confined nature of this work, and the abundant rich, and luxuriant scenery, we have yet to display, we feel it impossible to insert every object in picture, however highly it may merit our notice in description. Passing several beautiful villages, we reach Willersley, in the vicinity of which, the extensive range of Merbidge Hills afforded us, from their summit, a grand and extensive view of the surrounding country. Another noble object presents itself in this neighbourhood, which bears the name of Brobery’s Scar: its principal attractions are the bold and majestic roughnesses of its form, that contrast beautifully with the views, more immediately upon the eye, on the bank of our river. Hence, amidst a profusion of rich and beautiful scenery, at a place called Rhydspence, the river quits Radnorshire, and glides its easy course towards Bradwardin. This town stands on an easy ascent on the bank of the Wye, and presents itself in a happy point of view above the bridge, the northern bank of the river rises to a considerable height, and is richly cloathed with shrubbery. In the annexed view we have aimed at a representation of this beautiful and romantic scene. The river here acquires a considerable width, and though in a dry season, has a proportionable depth of water. In this vicinity there was formerly a castle, of which very little remains. This place gave birth, and name to the famous Thomas Bradwardin, Archbishop of Canterbury, who, from his variety of knowledge and proficiency in the abstruse branches of learning, obtained his title of Doctor Profundus. Below this village we glided down this deep and majestic stream, amidst a rich and fertile country, till we reached Mocca’s Court, the seat of Sir George Cornwall, Bart. It is pleasantly situated on an eminence, on the southern bank of the Wye, within a spacious park, and commands a full and extensive view of the beautiful meanderings of the river.

This place was anciently called Moches, and formed a part of the possessions of St. Guthlach, in the City of Hereford. The ancient house stood below the site of the present, which is a modern structure, and was in part built from the ruin of Bradwardin Castle. In descending towards Hereford we passed a variety of elegant villas, rich in situation, and very happily selected as summer residences; amongst these Belmont, the seat of Dr. Matthews, is peculiarly worthy of attention. The views from hence, in each direction of the river, are highly attractive, and art and nature under the guidance of taste, are happily combined to produce a rich and beautiful effect.

SECTION IV.

This view of the ancient bridge and venerable cathedral of Hereford, affords the most picturesque, and striking combination of objects, that came within our observation. The bridge is of stone, and consists of eight Gothic arches, it is evidently of great antiquity, but at what period it was built, history affords little information on which we can rely. Leland conjectures that it was erected about the same time with the castle, that is, soon after the conquest.