Part 5

Henry was born in the castle of Monmouth, of which little more remains than a few fragments of walls, and an elevation or mound of earth, just sufficient to ascertain its site; and to demonstrate how evanescent and transitory are all human things; the strong embattled fortress as well as the cradle of princes. Such once were to be found on this spot; and that this awful truth may be more strongly impressed and exemplified, though there yet remains more visible and palpable evidence of one than of the other, let it be remembered, that the record of history will retain the memory of the birth place of Henry, when all traces of the castle shall have passed away, and even its site shall as ineffectually be sought after as at this hour the image of its former splendour.

In this castle Edward the second, after he had been made prisoner by his queen Isabella, in 1326, was for a time confined. Having in the south west direction of the town, with some difficulty obtained a sketch of the ruin of the castle that partakes much of the picturesque, it is here given as an illustration of this venerable spot. The river Monnow beautifully winds beneath its ruined walls, the wooden bridge that is thrown across the stream, and the rich and verdant scenery of its hilly bank, all conspire to produce a landscape highly deserving a place in this work. The remains of the castle, denote it to be of Roman construction, Camden says that from the king’s records, a castle was standing here in a flourishing state, as early as the time of William the Conqueror, and that it was rebuilt by John Baron of Monmouth, about the year 1240.

This town has not only the honor of giving birth to a great king, but likewise to a great historian, Galfredius Arthurius, Bishop of St. Asaph, better known by the name of Jeffery of Monmouth. He is supposed to have been educated at this place, which had then a benedictine monastery, or convent of black monks, founded in 1240 by Wihenoe de Monemue, or Monmouth. Monasteries were at that time the principal seminaries for learning in this country, as Oxford and Cambridge had not then risen to any great celebrity, and were at that period much depressed in consequence of the Danish invasion. Jeffery was made arch deacon of Monmouth in 1251, and was soon afterwards created bishop of St. Asaph. He translated the history of Britain from the British language into Latin, a work said to have been discovered by Walter Mapæus while in Armorica, and brought by him into England, where meeting with Jeffery of Monmouth, a man profoundly versed in the history and antiquities of Britain, and an elegant writer for the period in which he lived the task was entrusted to him. Merlin’s prophecies he also translated from British verse into Latin prose. This work was of essential service to the Welch chieftain Owen Glyndwr, whose high pretensions to soveriegnty were constantly favoured and cherished by these prophecies. The veracity of Jeffery, as an historian, has been doubted by many; Camden says that his relation of Brutus and his successors ought to be entirely disregarded. It may however be observed in favour of this writer, from the testimony of Giraldas Cambrensis his contemporary, that at that period the Welch bards and minstrels from early traditional accounts, received and transmitted with a mixture of religious reverence and awe, solemnly repeated the genealogy of their princes and heroes, from Roderic the Great to Æneas, and from Æneas lineally to Adam.

If this should not altogether be thought to add much to their probable authenticity, it will serve to warrant the introduction of the history, to shew at least that he was not the author of the fiction; and, in tracing the origin of nations, tales to the full as fabulous are to be met with in the pages of many of our gravest and approved writers.

To the few early historians of our own we owe much, and amongst these Jeffery deserves every respect, and we are bound to regret that in succeeding times, the best histories of this country will be found to have been the labors of foreigners. A fragment of Monmouth Priory, we have preserved as a tribute to the memory of the historian who was there educated: The Gothic window that appears in view remains very perfect, and appertains to a venerable ancient chamber, which he is reported to have occupied as a study. From the nature of its foundation, the free school at Monmouth particularly deserves our notice. Burton, in his history of Wales, gives this relation of William Jones its founder: he says, “Wm. Jones was born at Monmouth, and forced to quit his country for not being able to pay ten groats. Coming to London he became first a porter, and then a factor; and going over to Hamburgh, had such a vent for Welch cottons, that he gained a very considerable estate in a short time. He founded a fair school in Monmouth, allowing fifty pounds yearly to the master, and a hundred pounds salary to a lecturer, besides a stately alms-house for twenty poor people, each of them having two rooms and a garden, and half a crown a week; all which he left to the oversight of the company of haberdashers in London, who discharge their trust therein to this day.” Another account of the founder is thus given, but with less credibility. That he was a native of Newland, a few miles distant from Monmouth, and having quitted it when young to seek his fortune, he returned at an advanced period of life, in an apparent state of indigence, although very rich, and applied to his native town for relief as a pauper, which being refused, he took his revenge on the people by retiring to Monmouth, and there dispensing that wealth, that was intended to enrich his native place.

We cannot quit the pleasant town of Monmouth without noticing the massive pile of its gaol. Built in a lofty and healthy spot, and in the form of an ancient castle; it frowns over the country, and impresses the idea of rigorous confinement and the impossibility of escape. At the time we visited this expensive and spacious work, it contained only one solitary inhabitant, and he a prisoner for only a very trivial offence. As our gaols increase in magnitude, it is with pleasure we have frequently had occasion to remark that there is a decrease of inhabitants, nor is it less worthy of observation that the humanity of supplying even those who least deserve it, with decent accommodation, as well as the blessing of light and air, before denied to them, is now most liberally granted.

Perhaps it may not be too much to infer from hence, that the immensity of the bulk of these buildings, in the conspicuous situation in which they are now placed, may impress the multitude with such a terror of the consequence of crimes, as in some degree to prevent a commission of them. This building stands on an eminence, and commands a fine view of the town and surrounding country.

SECTION IX.

Quitting Monmouth on an excursion to Rhaglan Castle, we ascended a considerable hill about a mile from the town, that afforded one of the most luxuriant landscapes we had witnessed in the course of our route. From this eminence, the rich valley in which Monmouth is situated, and the beauties of the surrounding country, are highly illustrative of Gray’s opinion of the charming situation of this place. He rapturously describes this scene as “the delight of his eyes and the very seat of pleasure.” We have attempted to give an idea of this much admired spot in the annexed plate.

The ride to Rhaglan Castle, a distance of about six miles, amply gratified us for this deviation from our main pursuit.

This magnificent remain of ancient splendor stands on an elevated situation commonly called Twyn-y-ciros, which signifies in Welch the cherry hill; and, as we approach it from the village, appears to wear that solemn and majestic air highly characteristic of the spirit of the times in which it flourished. The external view here selected, we flatter ourselves will not only convey the best idea of its extent and magnificence, but is a point from which we do not remember to have ever seen it represented. This noble building, which may rather be terminated a castellated house than a castle, is in many parts, still in good preservation. It was erected in the reign of Henry VII. and does not therefore boast of great antiquity; many additions were made to it about the time of Elizabeth, these constitute, the most elegant parts of this superb pile, and are to be found in the windows of the grand hall, or banqueting room; the ornaments of the frieze and cornice are light and elegant, and in the best taste of that time. To the left of this hall, was a large court one hundred feet long, and sixty feet broad, well arched and ornamented, with curious stone work both on the walls and windows. In the midst of the court was a pleasant marble fountain called the White Horse: the following remark of Dr. Griffin, relative to the white horse may not prove uninteresting. “I remember,” says he, “some years ago, they used to shew here part of the body of a black horse, which stood in the middle of some water that supplied the castle, and was a fountain. I was told the parliamentarians poisoned the water during the siege, and that the stone horse absorbed the poison; it was very hard, but on being struck, or rubbed with any hard substance, emitted a very offensive smell. Perhaps I had the legend very imperfectly, and it should have been added, the poison turned the white horse into a black one.” The castle is surrounded by a wide fosse thirty feet broad, wherein was originally placed an artificial water work, which spouted up water to the height of the castle, and contains within it two acres, one of which appears to have been encompassed with domestic offices, such as kitchen, brewhouse, &c. and in which there is an oven, and fire range of such extraordinary dimensions, as to satisfy us, that there were times in which they were not wholly occupied in feats of arms.

In this building every precaution has been used to guard and secure the approaches to it; and the utmost magnificence is to be observed in every part of the interior, even in the domestic offices. The staircase and ascent to the grand apartments are peculiarly noble; and beneath the areas which are vaulted, are various subterraneous apartments, and extensive cellars of the most excellent workmanship. The citadel, which is octagonal, is surrounded by a moat, and stands at a small distance from the castle: its principal parts are in a perfect state of preservation. This noble castle is in the possession of the Duke of Beaufort, whose ancestor, the Marquis of Worcester in the time of Charles the first, added and fortified many extensive out works, by which he was enabled to hold it for the king’s use till his imprisonment at Holmby. It once contained a garrison of eight hundred men, and was the last castle that surrendered to the parliament forces, then under the command of Sir Thomas Fairfax. This event happened on the nineteenth of August 1646, and is reported to have been effected by a female in the garrison, and by the use of a very ordinary female engine, the mere waving a handkerchief, as a signal for the introduction of Cromwell’s party. If this were so, politics were probably by no means the primary incentives of this lady’s zeal, and there were doubtless secret articles in this treaty, unknown to the besieging general. The window at which she appeared is still shewn.

The more probable account is, that from the very long siege it sustained, the upper part was undermined, and the timbers being burnt a great part of it fell down. Soon after its surrender, the castle was demolished and left, in nearly the same state in which it now remains. The loss to the family is supposed to be upwards of a hundred thousand pounds, besides the forfeiture of an estate of twenty thousand a year. Three considerable parks of remarkable fertility, and richly stocked with deer, once appertained to this castle.

Returning to Monmouth we resumed our passage down the Wye, on a morning, one of the most beautiful ever beheld. The retrospective view of Monmouth on passing down, the spire of the church, the town, bridge, and surrounding scene, though inferior to that above, yet in some respects exhibited a very picturesque landscape. The hills opposite to Monmouth, are called the Kemmin Rocks, on the summit of which Mr. Philip Hardwick, an architect, has erected a stone building for the reception of his friends, called Philip’s Court. This spot commands a view most extensive and diversified, and will well repay the labour of climbing up what John Bunyan would justly call _Hill Difficulty_. To those who visit this spot it may be worth the trouble of going about a mile further to view, amongst many others, an immense large rock called the Buck Stone; a name probably derived from the deer having sheltered themselves under it when the adjacent country was in the form of a park. Its situation is on the extreme edge of the hill; and, though of an immense size, it stands on an angular point, and is so nicely balanced, as to be with a very small degree of force, set in motion and shaken. Approaching the junction of the Monnow with the Wye, the side scenes of the river, increase in richness both of woody, and verdant scenery, and with such agreeable breaks in the distance as to produce an enchanting effect.

A little below this point, a small river called the Trothe, or Trothey, unites itself with our Wye, on whose banks they jointly pass, near a respectable mansion called Troy house, in the possession of the Duke of Beaufort, to whom it descended from Sir Charles Somerset.

Sir Charles was the third son of Edward Earl of Worcester, and married the daughter and heiress of Sir William Powell of Troy, by whom he acquired a considerable estate, and added much influence to the house of Worcester. The present edifice notwithstanding it was designed by Inigo Jones, has little that can recommend it to notice. It is used merely as a lodge, and is occasionally only occupied by the family. A few portraits decorate its walls, but they are not of consequence sufficient to take the traveller far out of his way. The cradle wherein Harry of Monmouth is reported to have been rocked is here exhibited as a great curiosity, but the freshness of its velvet, its nails and appendages, bespeak it rather to have been the receptacle of one of the Beaufort family in the time of Charles the second.

To those however who are fond of cradles (and in their second childhood, amongst our old lady antiquaries, some such there may be) the annexed sketch of one, the appearance of which bespeaks it as not unlikely to have been of that time, and which is in the possession of the Reverend Mr. Ball of Newlands, a few miles from Monmouth, may not prove an unacceptable regale.

[Illustration: Black-and-white engraving of a rectangular cradle with horizontal banding, set between two fluted columns. A bird perches on top of each column. Four round openings appear along the lower front of the cradle. The base extends outward on both sides.]

It is made of oak without any covering, and is suspended by two iron rings, by which it receives motion on the least touch or action of the child; it is three feet long, one foot four deep, and one foot six wide; it is ornamented at the top of the supporters, which are octagonal, with two birds, resembling eagles, but their beaks are broken off. The following anecdote relative to Troy house, extracted from the “Apothegms of the Earl of Worcester,” it is presumed will be thought not unworthy a place in this work.

“Sir Thomas Somerset, brother to the Marquis of Worcester, had a house which was called Troy, five miles from Rhaglan castle. This Sir Thomas being a complete gentleman, delighted much in fine gardens and orchards, where by the benefit of art, the earth was made so grateful to him at the same time, that the king (Charles the first) happened to be at his brother’s house, that it yielded him wherewithal to send his brother a present; and such an one as (the times and the seasons considered) was able to make the king believe, that the sovereign of the planets had now changed the poles, and that Wales (the refuse and the outcast of the fair garden of England) had fairer and riper fruit than England’s bowels had on all her beds. This present, given to the marquis, he would not suffer to be presented to the king by any hand but his own. In comes the marquis then, at the end of the supper, led by the arm, with a slow pace, expressing much Spanish gravity, with a silver dish in each hand, filled with rarities; and a little basket on his arm as a reserve, when making his obeisance he thus speaks: May it please your Majesty, if the four elements could have been robbed to have entertained your Majesty, I think I had but done my duty, but I must do as I may. If I had sent to Bristol for some good things to entertain your Majesty, that would have been no wonder at all. If I had procured from London, some goodness that might have been acceptable to your Majesty, that would have been no wonder. But here I present you, Sir, (placing his dishes upon the table) with that which came not from Lincoln that was, nor London that is, nor York that is to be, but from Troy.” Whereupon the king smiled and answered the marquis; “Truly my Lord, I have heard that corn grows where Troy town stood; but I never thought there had grown any apricots before.” Whereupon the marquis replied, “Any thing to please your Majesty.” When my lord marquis departed the presence, one told him that he would make a very good courtier; remember well, replied the marquis, that I said one thing which may give some hopes of me: _Any thing_ to please your majesty.

Amidst a rich though hilly scenery, beautiful in its forms and happily diversified by a multitude of small farms, that exhibit evident marks of improving cultivation in this, yet very improvable, though fertile country, we reach Redbrook. Here a considerable manufactory of iron and tin gives a new and pleasing variety to the scenery and bustle on our river. Some of the iron ore used here comes from Coldford, and other places in the neighbourhood of the forest of Dean, but the greater part is brought from Lancashire.

About a mile and a half below Redbrook, the Wye receives a further supply from a small stream called Whitebrook; about the distance of a mile from whence stands St. Briaval’s Castle. It is situated on an eminence, and though so near the river, is from the water too indistinct an object for the pencil. This is to be regretted, as the woody declivities on each side of it are beautiful in their forms, and display a scene uncommonly rich and elegant; but on quitting the boat we found a nearer view of the castle, well worthy a place in this work, and a proper ornament of its subject. The annexed sketch exhibits a north east view of the castle, and the remains of the moat that in part surrounded it.

The distant Monmouthshire hills form a good termination to the scene, while the adjoining church and general face of the landscape presents a view, in its style and character, materially varying from any we have yet met with. From the remains of this castle it appears to have been a place of great strength, and of considerable extent; it was built by Miles, Earl of Hereford, in the reign of King Henry I. whose third son named Mahel, Camden informs us, was here overtaken by “God’s judgments for his rapacious ways, inhuman cruelties, and boundless avarice. For being courteously entertained here by Walter de Clifford, the castle taking fire, he lost his life by the fall of a stone on his head, from the highest tower.” The custody of St. Briaval’s, with the Forest of Dean, was granted to John de Monemouth, in the eighteenth year of King John. The Earl of Berkeley is the present constable, and the Duke of Beaufort, under whose direction the castle is kept in a good state of repair, is lord of the manor. The tower in the west front is now used as a prison. From hence, the views of the surrounding country are extensive and beautiful; and here the meandering of the Wye paints the landscape, as in its general course, and spreads richness and fertility in the vallies through which it flows. Returning to our boat we passed Big’s Weir, near which, on the bank of the Wye, is the seat of General Rooke, whose father captured Gibraltar.

[Illustration:

_S. Ireland del._

_Llandogar._ ]

It is situated in the midst of a rich pasturage, and commands a full view of the river, and that interesting variety of moving objects, which its busy commerce here presents. Amidst a range of beautiful scenery, we pass the pleasant village of Llandogar about a mile below. Here the river forms a smooth and glassy bay, through which the white sailed vessel is seen constantly gliding, or lying moored on the shore to take in her freight. The undulating hills, called the Hudnells, form a beautiful back ground to this charming scene, of which the annexed view will give a faint idea.

A little below is Cadithil Weir, from whence we dropped pleasantly down the stream to another village called Brook’s Weir, which is considered a half way distance from Monmouth to Chepstow. At this place the goods sent from Monmouth are shipped and conveyed in larger vessels to Bristol. The river, in an easy meandering course, soon brought us within view of the most picturesque object on its banks, the splendid and very elegant ruin of Tintern Abbey,

“These are fair scenes where if art whilom trod, “Led by the worst of guides fell tyranny, “And with less superstition, we now trace “Her footsteps with delight; and pleas’d revere “What once we should have hated.”

[Illustration:

_S. Ireland del._

_Tintern Abbey._ ]