CHAPTER XXV
Winter in Roumania--Fêtes on the ice--An “escaped bear” causes a sensation, till he loses his head--Prince Carol establishes the bob-sleigh as a society craze--An unlucky accident to Princess Elizabeth--An end to bob-sleighing--Sleighs and winter costumes--Christmas--New Year’s Eve.
Winter is a very agreeable season of the year in Roumania for persons who enjoy good health and for whom frost and snow have no terrors. The cold is very severe at times, but the brilliant sunshine and the bright blue sky overhead compensate for the lowness of the temperature. The winter scene is seldom without snow, which lies deep on the ground; and although the law demands that each householder must clear it away from before his door, the regulation is rarely enforced. Indeed, I noticed that it was seldom cleared away from before the Prime Minister’s own door, and I did think that perhaps example would have been better than precept. However, the snow remains on the pavements for days, till a good hard frost comes to solidify it, and only then, when it is absolutely dangerous to life and limb, do the authorities send out men with pickaxes to clear it away. It very often happens that, during this process, the pavement becomes cracked or broken, but that is all in the day’s work, and will give employment to someone else.
Skating is a very popular amusement, and some very fine figure-skating has been seen on the lake in the small park of Cismegiu, but the ice is not so well cared for, as, for example, in Vienna. The cracks are never filled up, nor is the ice well swept. Cigarette-ends and burnt-out matches are often to be found lying about, so that skaters must go warily if they wish to avoid a nasty fall.
Sometimes in the evening fêtes are arranged, when fancy dress is worn, and the scene is very brilliant and animated when the skaters in their varied costumes are to be seen gliding gracefully round the decorated pond to the lively music of the band. I have seen some wonderfully effective costumes on such occasions--Russians with coats heavily befurred, Chinamen sailing along with pigtails flying, dainty little Japanese ladies with innumerable pins in their high coiled-up hair, and always, of course, Mephistopheles playing his usual part.
But what caused real excitement on one occasion was the appearance amongst the skaters of a huge Russian bear, who floundered about on the ice in most unwieldy fashion. His advent caused tremendous excitement, people imagining that it was a real bear which had escaped from captivity. Ladies flew from the furry monster shrieking--and, alas! not ladies only. When the bear, with huge extended arms, attempted pursuit, panic ensued, and there were loud cries for someone to shoot the animal. In the midst of the excitement, Master Bruin took off his head and revealed the laughing face of M. J----, a well-known figure in the society of the capital. The effect was electrical. Roars of laughter were heard on every side, and throngs surrounded the bear impersonator, congratulating him upon the success of his joke. Ultimately he was made to resume his head and was carried round the ice in triumph.
Ski-ing is practised to some extent, but is not nearly so popular as skating. The country in the neighbourhood of Bucarest is not suitable for the practice of the Scandinavian sport.
Prince Carol had, I think, become acquainted with the bob-sleigh through some friends who had been to Switzerland; at any rate, he became such an enthusiast on the subject that he would not rest satisfied until a course was laid at Sinaia. So it came about one winter that bob-sleighing was the latest society craze. The starting-point was situated at a spot high up in the woods beyond the palace, and the course led down by many sharp curves and bends to the bridge over the river Pelesch, thence the winding route descending to the main road. A telephone was installed, so that notice of the arrival of a sleigh at the terminus could be given before another was permitted to start. The course was also guarded by soldiers to prevent imprudent spectators from running into danger.
The pleasure-loving Roumanians spared no expense over their new hobby. Bob-sleighs were procured from Switzerland at a cost of about £25 each, all the other necessaries were provided, and arrangements made without regard to expense.
Prince Carol and his friends were an enthusiastic and a merry crew, the spice of danger adding a zest to their enjoyment of the sport.
One unlucky day, however, an accident occurred which put a sudden end to bob-sleighing at Sinaia. It chanced that a sleigh in which Princess Elizabeth was a passenger got into difficulties half-way down the track and became deeply embedded in the snow. The efforts to extricate it took time, and the occupants of the next sleigh becoming impatient, started on their downward career without awaiting the signal that all was clear. The horror of the helpless passengers in the royal sleigh may be imagined when they saw sleigh number two charging down upon them at furious speed. A collision seemed inevitable, and fatal results would most likely have ensued had it not been for the presence of mind and gallantry of Dr C----, who steered the second sleigh. Without a thought of the dreadful risk he ran, he turned his car into the face of the granite rock which bounded the course at this point. His own face was sadly damaged through the impact, but more serious consequences were averted. The royal sleigh was slightly involved, and Princess Elizabeth sustained a bruised ankle.
When the news of the accident arrived in Bucarest, King Carol was, I understand, very angry. Living the secluded life he did, he never had any sympathy with such new-fangled sports. A stern command came from Bucarest to cease bob-sleighing immediately, and the young people were ordered to return forthwith to the capital. This decree admitted of no appeal, so very ruefully the sleighs were stored away and the party returned to town.
Most probably Prince Carol received a good lecture from the King on the dangers of such sport. At any rate, there was no more bob-sleighing that winter.
Ordinary sleighing is always practised when the snow is deep enough. All the wheeled carriages disappear at once from the streets, and sleighs are the only vehicles to be seen. They are very neat little vehicles, quite low, and drawn by two horses. There is room for two occupants, with the driver in front seated on a narrow wooden ledge. At the back of the sleigh there is another wooden ledge which provides standing-room for one or two gentlemen.
Private sleighs are handsomely, some even splendidly, equipped. The rich furs of the sleigh robes and the silver-plated harness with its innumerable tinkling silver bells, the beautiful horses gaily caparisoned with bright blue and crimson woven nets which cover their quarters and spread back into the sleigh, thus protecting the occupants from the kicked-up snow, combine in adding wonderful life and colour to the picture of the Calea Victorie on a sunny winter day. When the snow is deep enough, the smooth, rapid motion is very exhilarating; but if one passes through a street which has been partly swept either by broom or by the wind, the bump, bump over the paved street is anything but pleasant. To rush swiftly along the Calea Victorie, then right on to the end of the Chaussée with the keen wind just nipping the face whilst the rest of the body is cosily enveloped in furs, is one of the most delightful experiences of the winter in Roumania.
During this season you must protect yourself from the severe cold. Sometimes it is so severe that men are to be seen with their moustaches frozen quite stiff. I think, however, that as a rule Roumanians wear clothing in the winter which is quite too heavy, as it renders them much more sensitive to the cold. For instance, a man will wear over his extra warm winter clothes an enormous overcoat lined throughout with fur, and so heavy that it is a task to lift it. A fur cap on his head and fur-edged snow-boots complete the out-of-doors costume.
Ladies and children also wear very heavy fur-lined coats, and over the hat the inevitable “glouga,” a pointed cap something in the style of a witch’s cap, made of stout cloth and with long ends that one can wind round the neck and tie in a knot. The “glouga” is to protect the head and ears, and is sometimes even worn by gentlemen.
Christmas is a very pleasant time, and I always enjoyed it, even though it be the chronological misfortune of the country that Santa Claus arrives a fortnight after the date upon which we used to expect him at home. Some time before Christmas the boys belonging to the different church choirs parade the streets singing at every door much after the fashion of our own waits, and carrying a large banner in the shape of a star. As there is a small light placed behind this, it shows up well and is very effective in the dark streets. Naturally the musicians expect to receive largesse, and it is not often that they are disappointed, as Roumanians are very charitable and give readily. Christmas is observed chiefly as a religious holiday, the real fête being New Year’s Eve. Then it is that the families who have children light up their Christmas tree and distribute the presents. Every visitor must have a little remembrance from the tree, no matter how small. Punctually at midnight champagne is brought in and drunk to the accompaniment of much clinking of glasses and cries of “La mulți an!” (A Happy New Year!), which resound on every side.
The houses are not decorated with holly as they are in England; indeed, holly is never seen there. The present Queen of Roumania tried to cultivate it in the park at Cotroceni, but without success. Mistletoe, however, is very abundant, the best kind growing on the fir-tree.
My delight was great one Christmas Eve (the English colony always kept their own Christmas) on arriving home to find a huge bunch of mistletoe, with its waxlike berries, placed in my room. It had been sent by Princess G----. It was a little attention prompted by a kind thought, and I appreciated it. The innate politeness of the Roumanians is constantly evidenced by similar acts of courtesy.
Roumanians as a rule are very kind and thoughtful for others, and their hospitality knows no bounds. As a Latin race their sympathies and affection naturally go out to the French, but my own observations convince me that their respect and esteem are given to the English more than to any other nation.