CHAPTER X

A NIGHT IN A LAPP HUT

[Illustration: MIDNIGHT SUN OVER LAKE TORNE TRÄSK, FROM ABISKO]

It was a wonderful night in June when I set out by motor launch one evening from Abisko to Pålnoviken, where I was to spend a night in a Lapp hut. And as I approached the small jetty that lies at the very extremity of the park of the Tourist Hotel, I had once again the unforgettable spectacle of the midnight sun, as it crept along the mountain crests to the north-west and illumined Lake Torne Träsk with a broad shimmering band of gold. The clear atmosphere peculiar to Sweden brought out every contour and object so vividly that even the most distant mountain summits appeared to be close at hand, while rising over the plain behind Abisko, which was covered with dense clusters of white-stemmed birch and juniper bushes, were the snow-clad Abisko Alps, and the strangely shaped semi-circular mountain pass called the Lapgate, through which it is said that the Laplanders originally invaded the country. The contrast between the dazzling snow and mountain-tops, now coloured blood-red by the sun, and the verdant meadows and brawling rivulets, whose gurgling as they rolled over the stones was almost the only audible sound, was one of exceeding impressiveness, while the realisation that barely one hour before midnight conditions of light and sun prevailed identical to those existing in broad daylight in western countries created a sense of unreality in my mind that was as novel as it was pleasing. As we left the shore, however, a cold, bleak polar wind arose, whose freezing blast effectively recalled me to reality. It was one of those winds which chill you to the marrow; and as I was totally unprepared for it, it unmercifully settled on my person, percolated into my neck, up my arms and legs, and through my clothes, while it hovered persistently and pervasively in my wake. The realisation of the glorious sunshine above me, and the engrossing thought of the visit that I was contemplating, were too strong, however, to be weakened by such minor discomforts. And experiencing some of the sensations of virtuousness which are invariably felt whenever one indulges in an exceptionally cold bath, I began to stride up and down the minute deck of the launch, full of the sense of well-being which is caused by reasonable bodily exercise under uncomfortable conditions. After more than an hour and a half of this constant buffeting, during which the Jake developed all the symptoms of a roughish sea, and the boat began to pitch and roll as if to the manner born, the wind suddenly flagged, tired, while the rumble and clatter of the engine announced that we had arrived. Creeping out of the deck chair into which I had finally found refuge and oblivion from the storm, I saw a little cove with a meadow in the background that sloped gently towards us, and behind it steep mountain-sides that were clothed with pine and birch. Gathering up my knapsack, I waited until the captain was ready to land, and then, preceded by him, went down the ladder and climbed up the incline leading to the meadow above. A hundred yards away were the Lapp huts of the settlement which I was to visit, and in almost as short a time as it takes to write down these words, we had arrived at the one in which I was to spend the night.

Facing me was a hut made of curved birch trunks, set closely together and covered with turf and earth, which were kept in place by cross beams. And opening a door which swung outwards on a wooden hinge, I entered after my guide had acquainted my hosts of my arrival. I found myself in a large circular room whose walls sloped inwards, and in the centre of which I saw a large open hearth bordered by stones that were placed in a circle. Over this fire was a pot which was suspended from an iron chain above, while there was a large hole in the roof to enable the smoke to escape, and a smaller one on the floor level near the door for the dogs to pass in and out. The ground was covered with spruce birch twigs on both sides of the hearth, while all around the wooden walls I noticed reindeer skins, and there were also two or three chests likewise made of birchwood to hold the family trinkets and the principal household implements, as well as an inverted wooden box which was obviously used as a sideboard, since I noticed lying on it a tin of the familiar Lyle’s Golden Syrup, and two china cups and saucers. As I entered the hut, my host, N——, a typical Laplander with a hooked nose, prominent cheek-bones, and tangled dark hair, courteously waved me to a log on the right near the hearth, the place of honour, and I sat down, while he began to talk concerning me to the captain. Opposite to him and on the left were a woman and two young girls who sat cross-legged against the side of the hut, and two youths of indefinite age who were smoking pipes made of mazur birch. There were also two black Lapp dogs, one of which was watching one of the younger girls as she chewed a large chunk of smoked reindeer, which she had sliced off a reindeer leg with a clasp-knife, while a large very pale-faced Lapp baby, wrapped in mummy-like swaddling-clothes, was lying in a most attractive-looking reindeer-skin cradle which was slung from the roof and shaped like a miniature poulka (sledge).

Nowhere have I met with a more fantastic and weird-looking costume than that which was worn by N—— and his family on this occasion.

N—— himself wore a blue cloth tunic ornamented with red and yellow borders and gathered in at the waist by a leather belt, skin-tight cloth breeches, moccasins turned up at the toes, and a high pointed cap that, decorated with a bright red tassel and worn at a rakish angle, gave him the appearance of a court buffoon. His womenfolk were attired in blue cloth dresses trimmed with a kind of gold braid, tight breeches, I believe, of the same material, coloured kerchiefs which were fastened by quaint brooches, and attractive red and blue lace caps.

[Illustration: A LAPP HUT ON LAKE TORNE TRÄSK, MIDNIGHT]

I found N—— quite ready to answer my questions, though some of these appeared to cause him vast amusement. On being told that the Laplanders were never known to quarrel, I inquired what would happen if two Lapps fell in love with the same woman. This question had to be repeated several times before N—— realised what I was asking, but when once he and his friends understood the drift of my query, they began to laugh so uproariously that no answer was forthcoming for at least three or four minutes. At last the captain informed me that my question had caused the greatest merriment among the natives, as they were totally unable to conceive of such a possibility ever arising. Here, then, is a community of men and women who, in spite of their comparatively recent conversion to Christianity and the attainment by them of a thoroughly organised social life, in which the rights of property and marriage ties are scrupulously respected, have, emotionally speaking, never evolved beyond the state where sex has neither the aureole nor even suspected the halo of romance. I say, in spite of their conversion to Christianity and their organised life—as it cannot be denied that while the primitive man’s possession of woman depends ultimately on his power to hold her against any other man, his appreciation and love of woman as such, and his capacity of romance, invariably grow with every effort made by religion or law to control or check his amatory or possessive instincts. Contrary to the general tendency of mankind, the Laplanders have, however, little changed from what they were in the dawn of civilisation, and they continue to afford the spectacle of a race in which, in spite of restrictions, sex attraction is no more discriminating than the universal craving for food. I rather fancy that when a Lapp takes a wife he uses hardly more judgment than that which is shown by the average man or woman who is sampling a piece of bread, and that consequently, if only the woman is a fair example of the race, such trifles as good looks or complexion, charm or fine physique, are absolutely of no consequence.

As I talked to my guide and endeavoured to obtain further information with regard to this very strange people, my hosts were proceeding unconcernedly with their work. N—— was carving a knife handle out of the horn of a reindeer, while his wife was busy fashioning thread for sewing the family winter garments out of reindeer sinews, and was pulling the strands through her teeth in order to soften them and make them more pliable.

Soon the captain rose up to go. He told me that, as had been arranged, I would sleep in the hut, also that in accordance with my desires I would not be expected to share my host’s evening meal, though the latter had expressed the hope that I would accept a cup of coffee before retiring to sleep. I replied that I would be pleased to take coffee with the family, though I knew that the Lapps were hardly noted for their cleanly habits, and while my host’s daughter began to prepare it, said good-bye to my guide, who promised to return for me next morning.

Unsavoury as have been some of the foods which I have tasted during many wanderings, few have proved more repugnant than the compound of inferior moka and reindeer milk which was now handed to me, though I will allow that the Lapp girl endeavoured to serve it in a clean receptacle. Taking one of the cups which had evidently already been used by one of the company, she poured in some water and diligently started scraping the inside of it with her grubby fingers. Then throwing out the water, she wiped and polished the cup, poured in the coffee and milk, and handed it to me.

After this experience I was ready for anything, and until bed-time amused myself watching the antics of my room-mates as they now started to eat their evening meal preliminary to retiring for the night. The menu on this occasion consisted of smoked reindeer, unfermented bread, and coffee taken with salt instead of sugar, the informality which dominated the feast reminding me irresistibly of feeding time at the Zoo. Two large reindeer bones were produced, one of which N—— commandeered as head of the family, while the other went the round of the others; and sitting on the ground, they all produced clasp-knives and began to munch large chunks of meat which they pared off the bones. The dogs ran from one to the other, getting a stray morsel, or when sated lay back contentedly by their master, the latter every now and then wiping his knife on one of their backs before cutting a fresh morsel for himself. Spellbound I watched the orgy until suddenly, without any more formality than that which is shown by a dog who tires of eating and sinks into sleep, they quickly removed their moccasins and dropped down on the deerskins that were nearest them, appearing to fall asleep almost in the very act of falling.

It was some time before I began to realise that I too was expected to follow the general example; but when looking behind me I saw a large reindeer skin that had obviously been placed there for my benefit, I gathered up my knapsack and made for my improvised bed. Never shall I forget that night, for try as I would I was unable to reconcile myself to the strangeness of my surroundings, or to forget the horde of insects that had apparently found a home in my rug. The excruciating itching which they occasioned, coupled with the occasional visit of the very smelly Lapp dogs, who persisted in treating my prostrate body as a couch, and the yelping of the baby, whom neither the milk-bottle nor a large reindeer bone which was thrust into its mouth was able to pacify, converted what would otherwise have been a pleasing experience into a long-drawn agony, and it was a very disillusioned and weary traveller who greeted the captain on the next morning. Thanking my host for the hospitality which he had shown me, I gladly followed my guide to the boat and hastened back to Abisko.