Part 98

is a borough and market town, on the southern border of the county, 143 miles N.W. by W. from London, and twenty-five south from Shrewsbury, situated on an eminence, at the junction of the Corve with the Teme, and surrounded by a country varied with delightful prospects in every direction. This ancient and populous town is upwards of a mile in length and half a mile in breadth, having a number of regular and wide well paved streets, lying in diverging and inclined directions from the highest and most central part of the town; a circumstance which greatly promotes its cleanliness and salubrity. The houses in general are neat, well built, and better arranged than those of most inland towns of the same antiquity. The town is skirted by the rivers Corve and Teme, and abundantly supplied with water by pipes from springs in the vicinity to the public pumps, as well as from the river Corve by machinery and pipes to the different houses. The glove trade formerly employed upwards of one thousand hands here, but owing, it is thought, to the introduction of French gloves, and the establishment of marts for articles of a cheaper fabrication in Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire, the trade declined some years ago, and has now become almost extinct. Malt is made to a considerable extent, and there is a paper mill, and an establishment for the manufacture of blankets and a coarse kind of woollen cloth chiefly used for horse collars. The town has, however, been kept in a flourishing state by the numerous respectable residents which the extreme beauty of its situation has attracted to it. There is a market here on a Monday for grain, provisions, and poultry, which is usually well attended. Markets are also held on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, for provisions. Fairs for horned cattle, horses, pigs, and general merchandise, are held on the Monday before February 13th, Tuesday before Easter, May 1st (for hiring servants), Wednesday in Whitsun-week, August 21st, September 28th, and the first Mondays in November and December. Population in 1801, 3,897; 1831, 5,253. In 1841 the parish of St. Lawrence contained 1,086 houses and 5,064 inhabitants; of whom 3,041 were males and 3,157 females. Rateable value of the borough, £12,812. 4s. 9d. An act of parliament was obtained in 1794 for lighting and paving the town. The annual races are held in July, and continue for two days.

Ludlow was no doubt a town of note in the time of the Britons from the British name it bears (_Dinan_), though we have no historical record left of it. How it came to be called Dinan, a word of no affinity with Ludlow, we have not found. After the conquest, a noble knight assumed the name of Dinan in honour of the place. It may be observed that _Dinas_ and _Dinan_ are words of frequent occurrence in the account of British antiquities; and upon a careful investigation, it will generally appear that places so denominated have been formerly occupied by some chief or prince of the country. Ludlow seems to have been incorporated from time immemorial. The earliest charter extant is one of confirmation from Richard Duke of York, father of Edward IV. This charter, styling the corporation as “the bailiff’s, burgesses, and commonality, of the town and borough of Ludlow,” and conferring important privileges, has ever since, till the date of the recent municipal act, been deemed, in effect, the governing charter of the borough, though numerous charters were hereafter granted by succeeding sovereigns. The following corporate officers were appointed by charter, viz.:—Two bailiffs, two capital masters and justices, a recorder, twelve aldermen, twenty five common-council, a town clerk, coroner, three serjeants-at-mace, four beadles, and a town crier. No small display of civic pomp and splendour has been here exhibited in the annual election of the corporate officers. The high bailiff was appointed by charter to be elected by the aldermen, and the low bailiff from among the common councilmen; indeed the system of self-election was strictly established, and so were its usual consequences. The bailiffs, and recorder, or steward and capital masters, were all appointed to act as justices of the peace, ex-officio, within the liberties. General sessions of the peace were appointed by Charles I. to be held quarterly, in the same week as the county sessions. Capital convictions, it is said, with executions on the Gallows-hill, anciently took place. Prisoners on higher offences were latterly, however, sent to Shrewsbury gaol for trial at the assizes. The privilege of burgess-ship was inherited by the sons of burgesses; and those who marry their daughters were entitled also to be admitted into this body; for which purpose they were required to petition, according to a prescribed form given in a by-law made in the year 1663. A court of record was instituted by Edward IV. for the trial of debts of 1s. and upwards, and the trial of issues in all personal actions within the municipality. Ludlow first returned members to parliament in the 12th of Edward IV. The boundaries of the borough were little more than co-extensive with those of the old municipal borough; but they have been much extended. Previous to the passing of the Reform Act the borough returned two members, as it still does, and is one of the polling places for the southern division of the county.

Under the Municipal Reform Act, a commission of the peace has been granted anew, and the court of quarter sessions re-appointed. Petty sessions are held weekly, and a court leet annually for swearing in constables. The borough is now governed by four aldermen and twelve councillors, under the usual corporate style. The persons qualified to vote for the town council, after the passing of the act, amounted to 307 in the parish of St. Lawrence, and seven in the township of Ludford, of which latter district the boundary commissioners proposed the exclusion, it being practically beyond the corporate limits. In other respects, the boundaries laid down in their report are extended on the west and east;

## particularly the latter, which stretches into the parishes of Stanton

Lacy, on building ground as far as the parliamentary borough. The following is a list of the members of parliament, borough magistrates, and corporate officers for the year 1851:—

_Members of Parliament_: Colonel Salwey and Henry B. Clive, Esq.

_Magistrates_: Francis Massey, Esq.; Humphrey Smith, Esq.; John Thomas, Esq.; Robert Thomas, Esq.; and Benjamin Urwick, Esq.

_Mayor_: Richard Marston, Esquire. _Aldermen_: Francis Massey; Benjamin Urwick; Samuel Valentine, and Henry Whittall. _Councillors_: Francis Boulton, Joshua Cooper, George Griffiths, Ambrose Grounds, James Hand, Charles Harper, James Jones, Horatio Russell, Edward B. Smith, Richard Valentine, Philip Wayn. _Town Clerk and Coroner_: John Williams, jun. _Treasurer_: Thomas Childe. _Assessors_: George Cocking and Richard Jones. _Auditors_: Thomas Jones and Samuel Oliver. The corporate property chiefly consists of that anciently belonging to Palmer’s Guild, which in 1833 produced a yearly income of £2,120. 8s. 8½d. In 1840 it was reduced to £968. 13s. This great reduction was caused by the corporation having to pay several expensive law suits.

It is well known that the aboriginal inhabitants of this island made a last and determined stand against their invading enemies in that district which had its boundary in what in later times was called the Marches of Wales, in which Ludlow seems to have been anciently included. This tract, however, might be extended from time to time, one way or the other, as either party occasionally gained ground; it is certainly known that Ludlow was early occupied as a military station to withstand the incursions of the Britons, who manfully disputed every inch of ground as they slowly retreated before their powerful enemies. The Romans are said to have been engaged nearly two hundred years in subduing Britain, and of the active operations of the contending parties interesting traces yet remain. Upon the remarkable hill called Caer Caradoc, historical accounts agree in stating it to have been occupied by the brave Caractacus, and many fierce battles to have been fought in its vicinity. An ancient writer describes this place as “exceedingly well fortified, both by nature and art, upon the toppe of an high hill, environed with a tripple ditche of greate depth. There were iij gates, and on three sides steepe headlong places, and compassed on the lifte hande with the river Colun, on the right with Themis.” Different situations have been ascribed to the scene of the last decisive action between Ostorius and Caractacus, but none rest upon such strong grounds of probability as the stations of Brandon Camp and Coxwall Knoll. The first of these is situated a little west of the Roman road leading from Magna to Ariconium or Wroxeter. The second is within sight, and distant from the Roman Camp about three miles, near the village of Brampton Brian. It crowns the summit of a lofty hill, and is of irregular shape, strong by nature, but made stronger by art. A survey of these two camps by the antiquarian must be peculiarly interesting, when he recollects that an Ostorius stood on one camp and a Caractacus on the other; and that their heroic deeds were recorded by the pen of a Tacitus. Each particular related by the historian concerning their respective situations coincides with the natural position of the river Teme and the camps of Brandon and Coxwall hills. From the departure of the Romans to the Norman conquest history supplies no certain information concerning Ludlow; yet it is probable that there existed here a town or fortress previous to the recorded erection of the castle.

LUDLOW CASTLE. It is recorded in old chronicles that “Roger de Montgomery erected the greatest part of the castle, and fortified the town with walls,” from which it may be inferred, that in the times and place alluded to a town and fortress must have been co-incident with each other. This Roger came over with the conqueror, to whom he was related, and led the centre division of his army in the memorable battle which secured the conquest of England, and was afterwards advanced to the Earldoms of Arundel and Shrewsbury. He was the liberal founder of several rich monasteries and churches, particularly the monastery of Wenlock, and the abbey of Shrewsbury. Having completed his favourite structure, “Ludlow Castle,” he enjoyed it until his death in 1094. It was forfeited to the crown by the attainder of his son Robert, who being banished the realm, King Henry I. gave Dinan or Ludlow, with the territory of Corvedale, to a Norman Knight, known by the name of Fulke Fitzwarine, surnamed de Dinan; between whom and Walter de Lacy, Lord of Ewias by right of conquest, there arose several contests, whether out of emulation, or about fixing the boundaries of their royalties, is not known. In one of these skirmishes the said Sir Walter de Lacy, and his trusty knight, Sir Ernauld de Lis, were taken prisoners of war and carried to Dinan, where being in custody, by intriguing with a fair damsel they found a way to make their escape. Gervas Pagnel, governor of the castle, having betrayed his trust in joining the Empress Matilda, King Stephen besieged it, and in conducting the operations of the siege the king gave a signal proof of his courage and humanity. The young Prince Henry, son of King David, who was actively engaged in this enterprise, having approached too near the walls of the castle, was caught from his horse by means of an iron hook fastened to the end of a rope. Stephen, observing the perilous situation of the young prince, boldly advanced and rescued him at the risk of his own life. What right or title the several governors had in the reign of Henry II. is uncertain; though it is most probable that they were only governors, without any fixed interest, till the 16th of King John, when Walter de Lacy had a grant of Ludlow, from whom the title of the place is clearly derived to the house of York, whereby it became vested in the crown. Between the governors of this castle and Hugh de Mortimer terrible dissensions arose. At length it happened that Mortimer was surprised and seized. He was conveyed to Ludlow Castle, and confined in one of the towers, which to this day bears his name.

In the 47th of Henry III., Roger Mortimer, James de Alditheley, and Hamo L’Estrange had a general rendezvous with the barons of the Marches at Ludlow, to concert proper measures for suppressing the insolence of Simon de Montford, Earl of Leicester, and the other barons who had taken up arms against the king. The Earl of Leicester, to oppose the powers of the Marches, made a league with Leoline Prince of Wales, who with united forces attacked the castles of Hay and Ludlow, which were both burnt and demolished. Roger Mortimer, governor of the castle in the time of Edward II., was committed to the tower for a riot that he promoted on account of his dissatisfaction with the ministry of the Spencers: being jealous of a design against his life, he made an entertainment for Sir Stephen de Segrave, the constable of the tower, and in the midst of their cups and jollity, he privately gave him a soporiferous medicine, which, with the contrivance of his keeper, gave him an opportunity of sliding down a rope, and so flying into France. Upon his return, out of a grateful acknowledgment of divine providence for his deliverance out of the tower, he built a chapel in Ludlow castle, dedicated it to St. Peter, and appointed a priest to celebrate divine service for ever. In the second of Edward III. he was made chief justice of Wales, and created Earl of March; and the same year he celebrated with great magnificence the feast of the round table at Bedford. Soon after, the king making a progress into Wales, he was entertained at Ludlow. The promotion of this lord to exalted stations made him excessively proud, and he eventually fell into disgrace at court. He was apprehended at Nottingham, and carried under arrest to London; all his land being seized, and his chattles secured at the same time to the king’s use. The two main articles against him were, his having a hand in conspiring the murder of King Edward II., and his lewd familiarity with the queen, for which he was executed near Smithfield, where his corpse hung two days, and was exposed to greater indignities than usual. The castle, on his insurrection, having come into the possession of Richard Duke of York, was subjected to a siege by the forces of Henry VI. As he advanced towards Ludlow, the army of the Yorkists was drawn out into an intrenched camp in the fields of Ludford. Sir Andrew Trollop, who had been made marshal of the Yorkist army, deserted to the royalists, carrying with him the veteran troops under his

## particular command, and betrayed all their councils to the king.

Dismayed by this defection, the Yorkists broke up their camp and fled, and the Lancasterians entered Ludlow, and wreaked their vengeance on the town and castle, which are said by old historians to have been plundered to “the bare walls.” The Duchess of York, with her two sons, were taken and placed in safe ward, and many of the rich partisans of the duke were executed, and their estates confiscated.

Edward Earl of March was on the Welch border when he received the first intelligence of the disastrous battle of Wakefield, and of the death of his father. He had collected an army in the north and was already marching against the Queen when he was called to oppose a large force of Welsh and Irish, which, under the Earl of Pembroke were advancing in the hope of making themselves master of his person. The two armies met at Mortimer’s Cross, near Ludlow, and it is said that before the battle commenced three suns appeared in the sky over the field, which approached each other till they joined in one, and that Edward taking this as a favourable omen subsequently adopted a sun as his badge in remembrance of this circumstance. The Yorkists obtained a decisive victory and nearly four thousand of the enemy were slain. All the persons of rank were beheaded at Hereford in retaliation for the Queen’s cruelties at the battle of Wakefield. Edward immediately proceeded to London and was proclaimed king under the title of Edward IV. Among the towns which had supported the house of York, none had been more staunch than that of Ludlow. On the 7th of December, in the first year of his reign, he rewarded the townsmen with a charter which extended the privileges of the inhabitants. He created his eldest son Edward, then a mere infant, Prince of Wales, and sent him and his younger brother to the Castle of Ludlow. Hall, in his Chronicles, tells us that he was sent to Ludlow “for justice to be doen in the Marches of Wales, to the end that by the authoritie of hys presence the wild Welshemenne, and evill-disposed personnes should repair from their accustomed murthers and outrages.” On the King’s death, in 1483, the two princes were immediately recalled to London, and perished there within a few weeks, amid the mysterious events which attended the accession of Richard III. to the throne. In 1631, Sir John Egerton was appointed Lord President of Wales and the Marches. At this period Charles I. visited Ludlow, and was welcomed with much ceremony and rejoicing, at which time the exquisite effusion, the “Mask of Comas,” was performed before his Majesty. It is said to have been founded on an incident which occurred in the Lord President’s own family, and which is thus related by Nightingale:—“When the Earl had entered on his official residence he was visited by a large assembly of the neighbouring nobility and gentry. His sons, the Lord Brackley and Sir Thomas Egerton, and his daughter, the Lady Alice, being on their journey, were benighted in Haywood Forest, in Herefordshire, and the lady, for a short time, was lost. Their adventure being related to their father on their arrival at the Castle, Milton, at the request of his friend Henry Lawes, wrote the Mask. Lawes set it to music, and it was acted on Michaelmas night, the two brothers, the young lady, and Lawes himself, each bearing a part in the representation.” The poem, familiar to every English reader, has been allowed by the most competent judges to be one of the finest compositions in the English language, and will ever be held in peculiar estimation, as exhibiting the fair dawn of that genius which burst forth in full splendour in the poem of Paradise Lost.

In the civil wars between Charles I. and the Parliament, Ludlow was occupied by the royal party. In the summer of 1645, a force of nearly two thousand horse and foot, drawn together out of the garrisons of Ludlow, Hereford, and Worcester, were, by a less number of the Parliamentary forces, defeated at Stokesay, near Ludlow. It was not, however, till the following year that Ludlow Castle fell into the hands of General Sir Wm. Brereton, to whom it was given up by Sir Michael Woodhouse. The Earl of Bridgwater, governor of the castle, died in 1648, and was succeeded by Richard Lord Vaughen, Earl Carbery. Samuel Butler, the satirical author of “Hudibras,” was appointed his secretary and steward. A tower is still shown as the place where Butler wrote a part of his incomparable work, the first part of which was published in 1663. This poem was universally admired; the King quoted, the courtiers studied, and the royalists applauded it, but the author was the dupe of promises which were never fulfilled. In the midst of disappointment and neglect he published the third part in an unfinished state, and in 1080 he died in indigence.

The ruins of this ancient baronial fortress are strikingly fine; the sullen stillness that now reigns throughout these forlorn and deserted towers, once the scene of royal splendour and feudal revelry, present a spectacle of the fallen magnificence of past ages, rarely to be equalled. The structure stands at the extremity of a bold headland, and its foundations are laid upon a bare grey rock. The part towards the north consists of square towers, with high connecting walls which are embattled; the old foss and part of the rock have been formed into walks and planted with beech, elm, and lime trees. These trees having now arrived at maturity, form an agreeable shade, and add much to the picturesque ruins of the castle. The principal entrance is by a gateway under a low pointed arch, on the height of which are the ruins of the barracks, which were in constant use when the castle was the residence of the lords presidents of the Marches of Wales. A portion of the barracks has lately been converted into a dwelling house. Further on is a square tower, the embattled rampart pierced with loops here and there, remain in picturesque masses. On the left is a range of stone buildings supposed to have been the stables; contiguous are the ruins of the court house, and beyond it rises a lofty tower called Mortimer’s Tower. The lowest apartment of this tower appears to have been a prison, the original entrance being through a circular aperture in the ponderous keystone of its vaulted roof. On the north and west sides a deep foss cut in the solid rock guarded the body of the castle. The place of the ancient draw-bridge is supplied by a stone bridge of two arches. The portal was built during the presidency of Sir Henry Sidney; over it are the arms of England and France, and the following inscription:—

“_Anno Domini Millessimo Quinquitesimo Octagesimo completo_, _Anno regni illustrissimæ ac serenissimæ regina Elizabethæ vicesima iertio currente_, 1581.”