Part 99

The court is an irregular square, and not very spacious, but the lofty embattled walls by which it is enclosed, though in ruins, still preserve their original outlines, and the frowning towers and bold masses, luxuriously mantled with ivy, present a rare specimen of the fallen magnificence of the feudal ages. The keep is a large square embattled tower, divided into four stories, and rises to the height of 110 feet. It is probably the only part of the castle which dates from the time of Roger de Montgomery. Most of the windows and doorways are distinguished by their round Norman arches. The ground floor is the dungeon half under ground. The arched roof is twenty feet in height. In the arch are three square apertures, which communicating with the chamber above, served for the purpose of admitting and inspecting the prisoners, and were probably intended also for raising supplies of ammunition and provisions, during a time of siege. On the second floor is a room measuring 30 feet by 18, with a fire place. The room communicates on the left with a square arched chamber, and on the right with a narrow oblong room. This tower measures 46 feet by 34, and the walls are from 9 to 12 feet thick. Facing the gate is the hall, measuring 60 feet by 30, and was originally approached by a flight of steps. There remains now neither roof nor floor to this once elegant apartment where the splendid scene of Comus was first exhibited, and where hospitality and magnificence blazed for ages in succession without diminution or decay. Two pointed arches lead to a spacious tower attached to the west end of the hall, in which are several apartments, one of which is still called Prince Arthur’s room. On the opposite end of the hall is another square tower, one of the rooms of which is pointed out as the banqueting hall. A spacious chamber above has been adorned with an unusual degree of rude magnificence.

The chapel was built in the reign of Henry I. by Joce de Dinan; all that now remains of it is the nave—a circular building, one of the earliest of this description in England. The approach is by a remarkably elegant Norman doorway, richly adorned with ornaments peculiar to the style of the period in which it was built. In the interior rising from the floor are fourteen recesses in the wall formed by small pillars, with indented capitals supporting round arches, which have alternately plain and zigzag mouldings. A filleted ornament runs round the exterior of the wall. A covered way led from the state apartments to the chapel. In the time of Queen Elizabeth the interior was covered with panels exhibiting the armorial bearings which church-yard describes as “armes in colours sitch as few can shewe.”

From an inventory of goods found in Ludlow Castle bearing date 1708, the eleventh year of the reign of Queen Anne, we learn that about forty rooms were found entire at that period. Among these were the hall, council chamber, lord president’s and my lady’s, with drawing rooms, the steward’s room, great dining room, chief justice’s room, second judge’s room, Prince Arthur’s room, captains’ apartments, kitchen, &c.; and as in this inventory a table and altar are stated to have been found in the chapel, we may presume the choir was at that time remaining. In the account prefixed to Buck’s antiquity published in 1774, it is observed that many of the apartments were then entire, and that the sword of state and the velvet hangings were preserved. Dr. Todd in his learned edition of Comus says, “A gentleman who visited the castle in 1768 has acquainted me that the floor of the great council chamber was then pretty entire, as was the staircase. The covered steps leading to the chapel were remaining, but the covering of the chapel was fallen, yet the arms of the lord presidents were visible. In the great council chamber was inscribed on a wall a sentence from I. Samuel, chapter 12, verse 3; all which are now wholly gone. On the accession of George I. an order is said to have come down for unroofing the buildings, and stripping them of their lead. The decay of this magnificent structure soon ensued. Many of the panels bearing the arms of the lord presidents were converted into wainscotting for a public house in the town, a former owner of which enriched himself by materials clandestinely taken away. The Earl of Powis, who previously held the castle by virtue of a long lease, acquired the reversion in fee by purchase from the crown in the year 1811.”

THE CHURCH, which stands in the highest part of the town, is a very beautiful cruciform edifice in the decorated gothic style of the latter part of the fifteenth century, forming undoubtedly the finest ecclesiastical fabric in the county, and perhaps the most stately parochial church in England. The structure is dedicated to St. Lawrence, and has a lofty and noble appearance; it consists of nave, chancel, choir, side aisles, transepts, and two chantry chapels, with a handsome tower rising from the centre, having at each angle an octangular turret, surmounted by a pinnacle. The tower contains eight musical bells, and a set of chimes was put up at the expense of the parish in the year 1795. The principal entrance is by a large hexagonal porch. The nave is divided from the aisles by six lofty pointed arches on each side, springing from light clustered pillars. Above them is a clerestory with a range of heavy windows. The four great arches under the tower are remarkably bold, beneath the eastern arch is the choral rood loft, embellished with open carved work, but upon it is erected a modern gallery, above which stands a powerful and fine toned organ, the gift of Henry Arthur Earl of Powis, in the year 1764; it cost £1,000. The choir is lighted by five lofty pointed windows on each side, and one of much larger dimensions at the west end. This window is richly adorned with stained glass, chiefly representing the legend of St. Lawrence, the patron saint of the church. The other windows in this venerable edifice bear evidence of having once been enriched with a profusion of stained glass of the most exquisite workmanship. The large eastern window containing the legendary history of St. Lawrence having been so defaced and wantonly broken that the various subjects could with difficulty be traced. It remained in this state till the year 1828, when the corporation of Ludlow directed Mr. David Evans, of Shrewsbury, to restore the window according to its original design. It was completed in a masterly manner in 1832, and the skill displayed by the artist in overcoming the difficulties he had to encounter has excited the admiration of every one who has seen it. The window is justly considered the most magnificent specimen of the art of glass staining in the county, and for general effect is surpassed by few in England. The window is divided into sixty-five compartments, and contains five hundred and forty feet of glass. The whole of the subjects depicted in the window are under elegant canopies of delicate tabernacle work, differing in design; and the costume of the figures throughout the various scenes are

## particularly curious, and well deserve attention, as the richness of

colour and general effect is not inferior to some of the finest specimens of the ancient stained glass. The window is supposed originally to have been setup during the episcopacy of Thomas Spoford, who was promoted to the see of Hereford in 1421. The three large windows on the south side of the chancel display full length figures of bishops, apostles, and Romish saints, the apex of each containing twelve small curious figures. The glass in the windows on the north side has been greatly mutilated, but sufficient remains to show the splendour and magnificence of the colouring.

The north and south chapels of the choir are separated from the transepts by remarkably handsome carved screens; in the windows are paintings representing the history of the apostles, and also very splendid remnants of stained glass, portraying the story of the ring presented by some pilgrims to Edward the Confessor, who, as “The Chronicles” relate, “was warned of his death certain days before he died by a ring that was brought him by certain pilgrims, which ring he had secretly given to a poor man that asked his charity in the name of God and St. John the Evangelist. These pilgrims, as the legend recites, were men of Ludlow.” The ceiling is of oak resting on corbels, which spring from highly decorated figures of angels bearing shields. The extreme length from east to west is 203 feet, and the breadth across the transepts measures 130 feet. The tower rises 131 feet in height, forming a prominent object, and gives considerable beauty to many prospects from the neighbouring country. In the church there are two highly finished effigies of Judge Bridgeman and his lady, but much mutilated. The head of the tomb was opened in 1805 (on sinking a grave for the body of Mrs. Turner) when the hair of both Sir John and his lady was found perfectly entire; the coffins mouldered on exposure to the air. In the high chancel is a large Grecian monument displaying an elegant sculptured cherub and emblems of time and eternity, in memory of Theophilus Salwey, Esq., who died in 1760. A handsome altar tomb of white marble has recumbent effigies of chief Justice Waiter and his lady; and on the front are figures representing their issue. Judge Walter died in 1592. Within the communion rails is a tomb in memory of Sir Robert Townsend and his lady, with two full length figures, and surrounding the base stand their children. Dame Mary Evre, who died in 1612, has a tomb erected to her memory, at the back of which are the armorial bearings of the family. Upon the tomb is a recumbent figure resting on a cushion, habited in the dress of the times and the head covered with a hood. In various parts of the building will be found several interesting tablets and mural monuments. Though not collegiate the church of St. Lawrence anciently possessed a chantry of ten priests, maintained by the rich guild of St. John, who gave to its choral services the splendour of a cathedral. The living is a rectory valued in the king’s book at £19. 12s. 6d., now returned at £160 in the patronage of the lord chancellor. The tithes have been commuted for £23. 13s. 6d. Ecclesiastical courts are held here for granting probates of wills and letters of administration.

THE INDEPENDENT CHAPEL, situated in Old street, is a neat structure capable of accommodating upwards of three hundred persons, and was erected in 1830. The congregation formerly assembled for divine worship in a chapel still standing, situate on the banks of the river, near the bottom of Corve street. Before the erection of this fabric, in which they continued to meet for nearly a century, the dissenters conducted their religious services in a licensed dwelling house, where, in the early part of 1731, they were furiously assailed by a mob. This vain attempt to crush them led to the erection of the first dissenting house in the borough. The Rev. Theophilus Davies is the pastor of the congregation.

THE METHODIST CHAPEL, a plain structure situated in Lower Broad street, was enlarged in 1835, and is now capable of holding about five hundred hearers. THE PRIMITIVE METHODIST CHAPEL, situated in Old street, is a substantial building erected in 1836, and has accommodation for upwards of three hundred worshippers.

THE BOYS’ NATIONAL SCHOOL is held in a spacious room over the Market Cross; and the GIRLS’ SCHOOL is held in a house in Brand lane. They are supported by voluntary subscriptions and charitable benefactions: the latter will be found noticed with the general charities of the borough. The gross income for the year 1850 was £155. 16s. 3d.

THE SAVINGS’ BANK, held in the public buildings, Castle street, was established in 1816. On November 20th, 1850, the total number of accounts was 1,939, of which twenty-three were charitable societies and eighteen friendly societies. The capital stock of the bank at the same period amounted to £70,958. 18s. 4d. The respective balances of 961 depositors did not exceed £20; 543 were above that sum and not exceeding £50; 231 not exceeding £100; 96 not exceeding £150; 62 not exceeding £200; and five accounts exceeded the latter sum. Mr. John Williams, actuary.

THE LUDLOW COUNTY COURT, for law proceedings in actions and claims not exceeding £50, embraces the following places, viz., Abdon, Ashford Bowdler, Ashford Carbonell, Aston, Acton Scott, Bitterley, Bromfield, Burrington, Cainham, Clee St. Margaret, Cold Weston, Culmington, Diddlebury, Downton, Elton, Halford, Heath, Holdgate, Hope Baggot, Hopton Cangeford, Leinthall Starkes, Leintwardine, Ludford, Munslow, Onibury, Richards Castle, St. Lawrence Ludlow, Sibdon Carwood, Stanton Lacy, Stoke St. Milborough, Stoke Say, Tugford, Wigmore and Wistanston. _Judge_, Uvedale Corbett, Esq.; _Clerk_, John Williams, Esq.; _High Bailiff_, William Davies.

THE LUDLOW LIBRARY, AND MECHANICS’ INSTITUTION, established in 1841, is held in one of the rooms of the market hall, the use of which has been granted by the corporation. The institution has an interesting library of nearly 300 volumes. Mr. George Cocking is the secretary.

THE PUBLIC ROOMS, situated in Castle street, were erected in 1840 by a company of shareholders. One portion is set apart for the _Ludlow Natural History Society_, where there is deposited a choice and valuable collection of fossils, British and foreign birds and animals, &c. This institution was established in 1834. There is also a spacious and elegant _Assembly Room_, and another for magisterial purposes, besides a _Reading Room_ well supplied with the principal London and provincial journals. THE MARKET CROSS is a neat edifice, with a cupola, where butter and other productions are sold on the market days. THE MARKET HOUSE is a plain brick building in Castle street, containing large and convenient rooms for the meetings of the corporation.

THE DISPENSARY is supported by voluntary subscriptions, a collection made in Ludlow church every alternate year, and the dividends of certain charitable bequests. The number of patients cured or relieved during the year 1851 was 279. Mr. H. Hodges, consulting surgeon; and Mr. Harley, dispenser. THE LYING-IN INSTITUTION was established in 1810, since which 3,561 persons have been relieved and visited, under the direction of the managing directors.

THE GAS WORKS. The Union Gas Works were established in 1840 by a company of shareholders with a capital stock of £3,050. The old gas works are situated on the road to the Clee Hill.

THE WATER WORKS are the property of the corporation. The water is forced by an engine from the river to a reservoir at the top of the Market-hall, and thence conveyed in pipes to different parts of the town. There are also conduits supplied by pipes with excellent water from the neighbouring hills.

LUDLOW POOR-LAW UNION WORKHOUSE is a spacious stone edifice, situated in the parish of Stanton Lacy. The union comprehends an area of 125 miles, and embraces the following parishes, viz.:—Abdon, Ashford Bowdler, Ashford Carbonel, Bitterley, Bromfield, Caynham, Clee St. Margaret, Cold Weston, Culmington, Diddlebury, Halford, Heath, Holdgate, Hope Baggott, Hopton Cangeford, Munslow, Onibury, Richard’s Castle, St. Lawrence Ludlow, Stanton Lacy, Stoke, St. Milborough, Stokesay, and Tugford, all in the county of Salop; Aston Burrington, Downton, Elton, Leinthall Starkes, Richard’s Castle, and Wigmore, in Herefordshire; the parishes of Leintwardine and Ludford are situated in both counties. Expenditure for the year ending 28th September, 1850, £3,533. 15s. 10½d. _Clerk_: Robert Thomas. _Medical Officers_: Henry Meymott, John Southern, Charles Pothecary, Daniel Gingell, Robert Jones. _Relieving Officers_: William Russell, James Jones, John Harding, Edward Millichap. _Chaplain_: Robert Meyricke. _Master and Matron_: William and Mrs. Russell.

GAOLFORD TOWER, a small structure, situated in Tower street, has four cells for the confinement of prisoners, and a day room and airing yard. It was built by the corporation in the 4th of George III.

DINHAM HOUSE, an elegant and spacious mansion, situated near the Castle (now the residence of John Thomas, Esq.), towards the close of the late war was occupied by Lucien Bonaparte, being then detained a prisoner in England. He left Ludlow on Sunday, June 30th, 1811.

Among the customs peculiar to this town that of rope pulling is not the least extraordinary. On Shrove-Tuesday the corporation provides a rope, three inches in thickness and thirty-six yards in length, which is given out at one of the windows of the Market House, when a large body of the inhabitants, divided into two parties (one contending for Castle street and Broad street wards, and the other for Old street and Corve street wards), commence an arduous struggle; and as soon as either party has gained a victory, by pulling the rope beyond the prescribed limits, the pulling ceases. The rope is usually purchased from the victorious party, and then given out again. Ludlow preserves the custom of walking over the limits of the township once a-year. This procession takes place on the Wednesday before Holy Thursday, on which occasion the boys of the different schools, attended by one of the clergy, proceed from the church to a place near Corve Bridge, where a cross formerly stood. Here the Epistle for the preceding Sunday is read; from whence passing to Weeping Cross, the boys again kneel down, and the Gospel for the same day is read by the clergyman.

THE BROAD GATE, the only one now remaining entire, receives its name from an ancient religious foundation called Barnaby House, famous in past ages as the temporary resting place of the numerous devotees passing through Ludlow on their way to the Holy Well of St. Winefrede, in North Wales. Adjoining formerly stood a chapel, dedicated to St. Mary of the Vale. The Gateway of Millgate is at the end of Barnaby lane. In Lower Millgate traces of the town wall are still to be seen. In 1786 Dinham gate remained entire, adjoining which anciently stood a chapel, approached by a flight of steps. The land leading from the bottom of Mill street to Dinham bears the name of Camp, from the frequent encampment of soldiers there. Old Gate stood at the bottom of Old street.

A religious house of WHITE FRIARS was founded at Ludlow, in 1349, by Sir Laurence de Ludlowe, Knt., which we are informed by Leland “was a fayre and costlie thinge, and stoode without Corve Gate by north, almost at the end of that suburb.” Stukeley, who wrote about the year 1720, says, “There was a rich priory out of the town, on the north side. Little remains now to be seen, excepting a small adjoining church once belonging to it. About the same place an arched gateway went across the street, but now demolished.” The church above mentioned was the chapel of St. Leonard, founded in 1590, and intended for a charitable and religious establishment, the almshouse having survived its chapel, and, according to the will of the founder, contributes to the maintenance of four poor persons. Near to Friars’ lane was situated the establishment of AUGUSTINE FRIARS, to which Edmund de Pontibus was a benefactor. There was an HOSPITAL, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, situated near the bridge, founded by Peter Undergod, and endowed with certain lands for the maintenance of certain religious brethren, and sustentation of poor and infirm people. The annual value at the dissolution was £17. 13s. 3d.

Thomas Johnes, Esq., was born at Ludlow, in the year 1783. He received his early education at Shrewsbury school, and took his degree of M.A. at Oxford. In 1783 Mr. Johnes erected an elegant mansion at Hafod, which in 1807 was consumed by a destructive fire, with much of its valuable contents, the loss amounting to £70,000. Notwithstanding this disaster, he rebuilt and adorned his mansion anew. Here he indulged his taste for literature, employed a printing press on his own premises, and produced some elegant historical works. He died in 1814, and was buried in the church which he had built at Hafod.

Richard P. Knight, Esq., an elegant scholar and distinguished in the literary circles of Europe, represented Ludlow in parliament for many years. Mr. Knight bequeathed his fine collection of medals, drawings, and bronzes (worth at least £30,000), to the British Museum. They include a single volume of drawings by the inimitable Claude, which was purchased for £1,600 from a private individual, who a short time previously had given £3 for the same volume.

CHARITIES.—_The Grammar School_.—It appears that all the premises specified in a certain grant, and constituting the possessions of the Guild or Fraternity of Palmers, had been unconditionally surrendered by them to King Edward VI. by deed under their common seal, dated 1st June, in the fifth of his reign. The property thus unconditionally surrendered to the king was granted by him to the corporation for the relief and better sustaining of the town and borough of Ludlow, and for the corporation, “_at their own costs and charges_,” to maintain a free grammar school, and other charitable institutions mentioned in the charter. It appears the legal import of the charter was not to grant the property upon trust to employ the whole of the rents and profits to the maintenance of the charities, but to make a beneficial grant of it to the corporation, coupled with a condition that they should, out of the income they thus acquired, sufficiently maintain the charitable institutions therein specified. The school premises comprise two houses, in which the master resides. About fifty years ago, the premises were nearly rebuilt, at a cost of £700. The school is open to the whole town, without any limitation of number, on payment of £3 annually. Four of the boys, nominated by the bailiffs, receive a benefaction of £2. 13s. 4d. per annum, under the will of _Dr. Langford_. The school is also entitled to two exhibitions of £45 to Baliol College, Oxford, for 11 years, founded by the _Rev. Richard Greaves_ in the year 1704. There are also three exhibitions of £50 for three years to any college in Oxford, Cambridge, or Durham. It is stated in the particular of the Guild estate, that “there is an almshouse to the Guild appertaining, with thirty-three chambers therein inhabited by poor people, according to the foundation and ordinance of _John Hoyser_, to every of which poor people is weekly allowed 4d.” THE PALMERS GUILD was a religious fraternity, established about the year 1248, for the relief of the poor, and for the administration of charitable bequests. Before the period of the Reformation, their funds had increased so considerably that they formed a college, with a warden for three priests, and maintained the above almshouse for thirty-three poor people, and the grammar school. On the passing of the Municipal Act, in 1835, it became necessary to separate the charity from the municipal property; and, after much litigation, lands yielding a clear rental of £1,800 a-year were secured to the charity for the purpose of maintaining the above-named objects. The preacher, now called the lecturer (and who, as well as the assistant, is appointed by the corporation), received from them a salary of £26. 13s. 4d. per annum, when the Charity Commissioners published their report. It appears that the Palmers Guild had been used to pay yearly to a schoolmaster, for keeping a free grammar school, £10; to one priest, £6; and to two others, £5. 6s. 8d. each. The particular duties of these priests are not specified; but it seems probable that the usher, preacher, and assistant, were intended to be substituted by the charter in their stead.