Part 12
Black currant leaves, and which the French term _cassie_, have an odor very much resembling cassie (acacia), and are used extensively for adulterating the true acacia pomades and oils. The near similarity of name, their analogous odor (although the plants have no botanical connection), together with the word _cassia_, a familiar perfume in England, has produced generally confused ideas in this country as to the true origin of the odor now under discussion. Cassie, casse, cassia, it will be understood now, are three distinct substances; and in order to render the matter more perspicuous in future, the materials will always be denominated ACACIA, if prepared from the _Acacia Farnesiana_; CASSE, when from _black currant_; and CASSIA, if derived from the bark of the _Cinnamomum Cassia_.
BENZOIN POMADE AND OIL.
Benzoic acid is perfectly soluble in hot grease. Half an ounce of benzoic acid being dissolved in half a pint of hot olive or almond oil, deposits on cooling beautiful acicular crystals, similar to the crystals that effloresce from vanilla beans; a portion of the acid, however, remains dissolved in the oil at the ordinary temperature, and imparts to it the peculiar aroma of benzoin; upon this idea is based the principle of perfuming grease with gum benzoin by the direct process, that is, by macerating powdered gum benzoin in melted suet or lard for a few hours, at a temperature of about 80° C. to 90° C. Nearly all the gum-resins give up their odoriferous principle to fatty bodies, when treated in the same way; this fact becoming generally known, will probably give rise to the preparation of some new remedial ointments, such as _Unguentum myrrhæ_, _Unguentum assafoetida_, and the like.
TONQUIN POMADE, and TONQUIN OIL, are prepared by macerating the ground Tonquin beans in either melted fat or warm oil, from twelve to twenty-eight hours, in the proportion of
Tonquin beans, 1/2 lb. Fat or oil, 4 lbs.
Strain through fine muslin; when cold, the grease will have a fine odor of the beans.
VANILLA OIL AND POMADE.
Vanilla pods, 1/4 lb. Fat or oil, 4 lbs.
Macerate at a temperature of 25° C. for three or four days; finally strain.
These pomatums and oils, together with the French pomades and huiles already described, constitute the foundation of the preparations of all the best hair greases sold by perfumers. Inferior scented pomatums and oils are prepared by perfuming lard, suet, wax, oil, &c., with various ottos; the results, however, in many instances more expensive than the foregoing, are actually inferior in their odor or bouquet--for grease, however slightly perfumed by maceration or enfleurage with flowers, is far more agreeable to the olfactory nerve than when scented by ottos.
The undermentioned greases have obtained great popularity, mainly because their perfume is lasting and flowery.
POMADE CALLED BEAR'S GREASE.
The most popular and "original" bears' grease is made thus:--
Huile de rose, } " fleur d'orange, } " acacia, } of each, 1/2 lb. " tubereuse and jasmin,} Almond oil, 10 lbs. Lard, 12 lbs. Acacia pomade, 2 lbs. Otto of bergamot, 4 oz. " cloves, 2 oz.
Melt the solid greases and oils together by a water-bath, then add the ottos.
Bears' grease thus prepared is just hard enough to "set" in the pots at a summer heat. In very warm weather, or if required for exportation to the East or West Indies, it is necessary to use in part French pomatums instead of oils, or more lard and less almond oil.
CIRCASSIAN CREAM.
Purified lard, 1 lb. Benzoin suet, 1 lb. French rose pomatum, 1/2 lb. Almond oil, colored with alkanet, 2 lbs. Otto of rose, 1/4 oz.
BALSAM OF FLOWERS.
French rose pomatum, 12 oz. " violet pomatum, 12 oz. Almond oil, 2 lbs. Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz.
CRYSTALLIZED OIL. (_First quality_).
Huile de rose, 1 lb. " tubereuse, 1 lb. " fleur d'orange, 1/2 lb. Spermaceti, 8 oz.
CRYSTALLIZED OIL. (_Second quality_.)
Almond, 2-1/2 lbs. Spermaceti, 1/2 lb. Otto of lemon, 3 oz.
Melt the spermaceti in a vessel heated by a water-bath, then add the oils; continue the heat until all flocks disappear; let the jars into which it is poured be warm; cool as slowly as possible, to insure good crystals; if cooled rapidly, the mass congeals without the appearance of crystals. This preparation has a very nice appearance, and so far sells well; but its continued use for anointing the hair renders the head scurfy; indeed, the crystals of sperm may be combed out of the hair in flakes after it has been used a week or two.
CASTOR OIL POMATUM.
Tubereuse pomatum, 1 lb. Castor oil, 1/2 lb. Almond oil, 1/2 lb. Otto of bergamot, 1 oz.
BALSAM OF NEROLI.
French rose pomatum, 1/2 lb. " jasmine pomatum, 1/2 lb. Almond oil, 3/4 lb. Otto of neroli, 1 drachm.
MARROW CREAM.
Purified lard, 1 lb. Almond oil, 1 lb. Palm oil, 1 oz. Otto of cloves, 1/2 drachm. " bergamot, 1/2 oz. " lemon, 1-1/2 oz.
MARROW POMATUM.
Purified lard, 4 lbs. " suet, 2 lbs. Otto of lemon, 1 oz. " bergamot, 1/2 oz. " cloves, 3 drachms.
Melt the greases, then beat them up with a whisk or flat wooden spatula for half an hour or more; as the grease cools, minute vesicles of air are inclosed by the pomatum, which not only increase the bulk of the mixtures, but impart a peculiar mechanical aggregation, rendering the pomatum light and spongy; in this state it is obvious that it fills out more profitably than otherwise.
COMMON VIOLET POMATUM.
Purified lard, 1 lb. _Washed_ acacia pomatum, 6 oz. " rose pomatum, 4 oz.
Manipulate as for marrow pomatum.
In all the cheap preparations for the hair, the manufacturing perfumers used the washed French pomatums and the washed French oils for making their greases. Washed pomatums and washed oils are those greases that originally have been the best pomatums and huiles prepared by enfleurage and by maceration with the flowers; which pomades and huiles have been subject to digestion in alcohol for the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief. After the spirit has been on the pomatums, &c., it is poured off; the residue is then called _washed_ pomatum, and still retain an odor strong enough for the manufacture of most hair greases.
For pomatums of other odors it is only necessary to substitute rose, jasmine, tubereuse, and others, in place of the acacia pomatum in the above formulæ.
POMADE DOUBLE, MILLEFLEURS.
Rose, jasmine, fleur d'orange, violet, tubereuse, &c., are all made in winter, with two-thirds best French pomatum, one-third best French oils; in summer, equal parts.
POMADE A LA HELIOTROPE.
French rose pomade, 1 lb. Vanilla oil, 1/2 lb. Huile de jasmine, 4 oz. " tubereuse, 2 oz. " fleur d'orange, 2 oz. Otto of almonds, 6 drops. " cloves, 3 drops.
HUILE ANTIQUE. (_A la Heliotrope_.)
Same as the above, substituting rose oil for the pomade.
PHILOCOME.
The name of this preparation, which is a compound of Greek and Latin, signifying "a friend to the hair," was first introduced by the Parisian perfumers; and a very good name it is, for Philocome is undoubtedly one of the best unguents for the hair that is made.
PHILOCOME. (_First quality_.)
White wax, 10 oz. Fresh rose-oil, 1 lb. " acacia oil, 1/2 lb. " jasmine oil, 1/2 lb. " fleur d'orange oil, 1 lb. " tubereuse oil, 1 lb.
Melt the wax in the huiles by a water-bath, at the lowest possible temperature. Stir the mixture as it cools; do not pour out the Philocome until it is nearly cool enough to set; let the jars, bottles, or pots into which it is filled for sale be slightly warmed, or at least of the same temperature as the Philocome, otherwise the bottles chill the material as it is poured in, and make it appear of an uneven texture.
PHILOCOME. (_Second quality_.)
White wax, 5 oz. Almond oil, 2 lbs. Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. " lemon, 1/2 oz. " lavender, 2 drachms. " cloves, 1 drachm.
FLUID PHILOCOME.
Take 1 ounce of wax to 1 pound of oil.
POMMADE HONGROISE. (_For the Moustache_.)
Lead plaster, 1 lb. Acacia huile, 2 oz. Otto of roses, 2 drachms. " cloves, 1 drachm. " almonds, 1 drachm.
Color to the tint required with ground amber and sienna in oil; mix the ingredients by first melting the plaster in a vessel in boiling water. Lead plaster is made with oxide of lead boiled with olive oil: it is best to procure it ready made from the wholesale druggists.
HARD OR STICK POMATUMS.
Purified suet, 1 lb. White wax, 1 lb. Jasmine pomatum, 1/2 lb. Tubereuse pomatum, 1/2 lb. Otto of rose, 1 drachm.
ANOTHER FORM,--_cheaper_.
Suet, 1 lb. Wax, 1/2 lb. Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. " cassia, 1 drachm.
The above recipes produce WHITE BATONS. BROWN and BLACK BATONS are also in demand. They are made in the same way as the above, but colored with lamp-black or umber ground in oil. Such colors are best purchased ready ground at an artist's colorman's.
BLACK AND BROWN COSMETIQUE.
Such as is sold by RIMMEL, is prepared with a nicely-scented soap strongly colored with lamp-black or with umber. The soap is melted, and the coloring added while the soap is soft; when cold it is cut up in oblong pieces.
It is used as a temporary dye for the moustache, applied with a small brush and water.
SECTION XIII.
HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORY.
By way of personal adornment, few practices are of more ancient origin than that of painting the face, dyeing the hair, and blackening the eyebrows and eyelashes.
It is a practice universal among the women of the higher and middle classes in Egypt, and very common among those of the lower orders, to blacken the edge of the eyelids, both above and below the eye, with a black powder, which they term _kohhl_. The kohhl is applied with a small probe of wood, ivory, or silver, tapering towards the end, but blunt. This is moistened sometimes with rose-water, then dipped in the powder, and drawn along the edges of the eyelids. It is thought to give a very soft expression to the eye, the size of which, in appearance, it enlarges; to which circumstances probably Jeremiah refers when he writes, "Though thou rentest thy face (or thine eyes) with painting, in vain shalt thou make thyself fair."--_Jer._ 4:30. See also LANE'S _Modern Egyptians_, vol. i, p. 41, et seq.
A singular custom is observable both among Moorish and Arab females--that of ornamenting the face between the eyes with clusters of bluish spots or other small devices, and which, being stained, become permanent. The chin is also spotted in a similar manner, and a narrow blue line extends from the point of it, and is continued down the throat. The eyelashes, eyebrows, and also the tips and extremities of the eyelids, are colored black. The soles, and sometimes other parts of the feet, as high as the ankles, the palms of the hands, and the nails, are dyed with a yellowish-red, with the leaves of a plant called Henna (_Lawsonia inermis_), the leaf of which somewhat resembles the myrtle, and is dried for the purposes above mentioned. The back of the hand is also often colored and ornamented in this way with different devices. On holidays they paint their cheeks of a red brick color, a narrow red line being also drawn down the temples.
In Greece, "for coloring the lashes and sockets of the eye they throw incense or gum labdanum on some coals of fire, intercept the smoke which ascends with a plate, and collect the soot. This I saw applied. A girl, sitting cross-legged as usual on a sofa, and closing one of her eyes, took the two lashes between the forefinger and thumb of her left hand, pulled them forward, and then, thrusting in at the external corner a sort of bodkin or probe which had been immersed in the soot, and withdrawing it, the particles previously adhering to the probe remained within the eyelashes."--CHANDLER'S _Travels in Greece._
Dr. Shaw states that among other curiosities that were taken out of the tombs at Sahara relating to Egyptian women, he saw a joint of the common reeds, which contained one of these bodkins and an ounce or more of this powder.
In England the same practice is adopted by many persons that have gray hair; but instead of using the black material in the form of a powder, it is employed as a crayon, the color being mixed with a greasy body, such as the brown and black stick pomatums, described in the previous article.
TURKISH HAIR DYE.
In Constantinople there are some persons, particularly Armenians, who devote themselves to the preparation of cosmetics, and obtain large sums of money from those desirous of learning this art. Amongst these cosmetics is a black dye for the hair, which, according to Landerer, is prepared in the following manner:--
Finely pulverized galls are kneaded with a little oil to a paste, which is roasted in an iron pan until the oil vapors cease to evolve, upon which the residue is triturated with water into a paste, and heated again to dryness. At the same time a metallic mixture, which is brought from Egypt to the commercial marts of the East, and which is termed in Turkish _Rastiko-petra_, or _Rastik-Yuzi_, is employed for this purpose. This metal, which looks like dross, is by some Armenians intentionally fused, and consists of iron and copper. It obtains its name from its use for the coloration of the hair, and particularly the eyebrows--for _rastik_ means eyebrows, and _yuzi_ stone. The fine powder of this metal is as intimately mixed as possible with the moistened gall-mass into a paste, which is preserved in a damp place, by which it acquires the blackening property. In some cases this mass is mixed with, the powder of odorous substances which are used in the seraglio as perfumes, and called _harsi_, that is, pleasant odor; and of these the principal ingredient is ambergris. To blacken the hair a little of this dye is triturated in the hand or between the fingers, with which the hair or beard is well rubbed. After a few days the hair becomes very beautifully black, and it is a real pleasure to see such fine black beards as are met with in the East among the Turks who use this black dye. Another and important advantage in the use of this dye consists therein, that the hair remains soft, pliant, and for a long time black, when it has been once dyed with this substance. That the coloring properties of this dye are to be chiefly ascribed to the pyrogallic acid, which can be found by treating the mass with water, may be with certainty assumed.
LITHARGE HAIR DYE.
Powdered litharge, 2 lbs. Quicklime, 1/2 lb. Calcined magnesia, 1/2 lb.
Slake the lime, using as little water as possible to make it disintegrate, then mix the whole by a sieve.
ANOTHER WAY.
Slaked lime, 3 lbs. White lead in powder, 2 lbs. Litharge, 1 lb.
Mix by sifting, bottle, and well cork.
_Directions_ to be sold with the above.--"Mix the powder with enough water to form a thick creamy fluid; with the aid of a small brush; completely cover the hair to be dyed with this mixture; to dye a light brown, allow it to remain on the hair four hours; dark brown, eight hours; black, twelve hours. As the dye does not act unless it is moist, it is necessary to keep it so by wearing an oiled silk, india-rubber, or other waterproof cap.
"After the hair is dyed, the refuse must be thoroughly washed from the head with plain water; when dry, the hair must be oiled."
SIMPLE SILVER DYE. (_Otherwise "Vegetable Dye._")
Nitrate of silver, 1 oz. Rose-water, 1 pint.
Before using this dye it is necessary to free the hair from grease by washing it with soda or pearlash and water. The hair must be quite dry prior to applying the dye, which is best laid on with an old tooth-brush. This dye does not "strike" for several hours. It needs scarcely be observed that its effects are more rapidly produced by exposing the hair to sunshine and air.
HAIR DYE, WITH MORDANT. (_Brown._)
Nitrate of silver, 1 oz., blue bottles. Rose-water, 9 oz. " _The mordant_.--Sulphuret of potassium, 1 oz., white bottles. " Water, 8 oz. "
HAIR DYE, WITH MORDANT. (_Black._)
Nitrate of silver, 1 oz., blue bottles. Water, 6 oz. " _The mordant_.--Sulphuret of potassium, 1 oz., white bottles. " Water, 6 oz. "
The mordant is to be applied to the hair first; when dry, the silver solution.
Great care must be taken that the sulphuret is fresh made, or at least, well preserved in closed bottles, otherwise, instead of the mordant
## acting to make to make the hair black, it will tend to impart a _yellow_
hue. When the mordant is good, it has a very disagreeable odor, and although this is the quickest and best dye, its unpleasant smell has given rise to the
INODOROUS DYE.
_Blue bottles._--Dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water as in the above, then add liquid ammonia by degrees until the mixture becomes cloudy from the precipitate of the oxide of silver, continue to add ammonia in small portions until the fluid again becomes bright from the oxide of silver being redissolved.
_White bottles_.--Pour half a pint of boiling rose-water upon three ounces of powdered gall-nuts; when cold, strain and bottle. This forms the mordant, and is used in the same way as the first-named dye, like the sulphuret mordant. It is not so good a dye as the previous one.
FRENCH BROWN DYE.
_Blue Bottles_.--Saturated solution of sulphate of copper; to this add ammonia enough to precipitate the oxide of copper and redissolve it (as with the silver in the above), producing the azure liquid.
_White Bottles_.--_Mordant_.--Saturated solution of prussiate of potass.
Artificial hair, for the manufacture of perukes, is dyed in the same manner as wool.
There are in the market several other hair dyes, but all of them are but modifications of the above, possessing no marked advantage.
LEAD DYE.
Liquid hair dye, not to blacken the skin, may be thus prepared:--Dissolve in one ounce of liquor potassæ as much freshly-precipitated oxide of lead as it will take up, and dilute the resulting clear solution with three ounces of distilled water. Care must be taken not to wet the skin unnecessarily with it.
QUICK DEPILATORY OR RUSMA. (_For removing hair._)
As the ladies of this country consider the growth of hair upon the upper lip, upon the arms, and on the back of the neck, to be detrimental to beauty, those who are troubled with such physical indications of good health and vital stamina have long had recourse to rusma or depilatory for removing it.
This or analogous preparations were introduced into this country from the East, rusma having been in use in the harems of Asia for many ages.
Best lime slaked, 3 lb. Orpiment, in powder, 1/2 lbs.
Mix the material by means of a drum sieve; preserve the same for sale in well-corked or stoppered bottles.
_Directions_ to be sold with the above. Mix the depilatory powder with enough water to render it of a creamy consistency; lay it upon the hair for about five minutes, or until its caustic action upon the skin renders it necessary to be removed; a similar process to shaving is then to be gone through, but instead of using a razor, operate with an ivory or bone paper-knife; then wash the part with plenty of water, and apply a little cold cream.
The precise time to leave depilatory upon the part to be depilated cannot be given, because there is a physical difference in the nature of hair. "Raven tresses" require more time than "flaxen locks;" the sensitiveness of the skin has also to be considered. A small feather is a very good test for its action.
A few readers will, perhaps, be disappointed in finding that I have only given one formula for depilatory. The receipts might easily have been increased in number, but not in quality. The use of arsenical compounds is objectionable, but it undoubtedly increases the depilating action of the compounds. A few compilers of "Receipt Books," "Supplements to Pharmacopoeias," and others, add to the lime "charcoal powder," "carbonate of potass," "starch," &c.; but what action have these materials--chemically--upon hair? The simplest depilatory is moistened quicklime, but it is less energetic than the mixture recommended above; it answers very well for tanners and fellmongers, with whom time is no object.
SECTION XIV.
ABSORBENT POWDERS.
A lady's toilet-table is incomplete without a box of some absorbent powder; indeed, from our earliest infancy, powder is used for drying the skin with the greatest benefit; no wonder that its use is continued in advanced years, if, by slight modifications in its composition, it can be employed not only as an absorbent, but as a means of "personal adornment." We are quite within limits in stating that many ton-weights of such powders are used in this country annually. They are principally composed of various starches, prepared from wheat, potatoes, and various nuts, mixed more or less with powdered talc--of Haüy, steatite (soap-stone), French chalk, oxide of bismuth, and oxide of zinc, &c. The most popular is what is termed
VIOLET POWDER.
Wheat starch, 12 lbs. Orris-root powder, 2 lbs. Otto of lemon, 1/2 oz. " bergamot, 3/4 oz. " cloves, 2 drachms.
ROSE FACE POWDER.
Wheat starch, 7 lbs. Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm. Otto of rose, 2 drachms. " santal, 2 "
PLAIN OR UNSCENTED HAIR POWDER
Is pure wheat starch.
FACE POWDER.
Starch, 1 lb. Oxide of Bismuth, 4 oz.
PERLE POWDER.
French chalk, 1 lb. Oxide of bismuth, 1 oz. Oxide of zinc, 1 oz.
BLANC DE PERLE
Is pure oxide of bismuth in powder.
FRENCH BLANC
Is levigated talc passed through a silk sieve.
This is the best face powder made, particularly as it does not discolor from emanation of the skin or impure atmosphere.
LIQUID BLANC (FOR THEATRICAL USE).
The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to subdue it.
Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:--
Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint. Oxide of bismuth, 4 oz.
Mixed by long trituration.
CALCINED TALC
Is also extensively used as a toilet powder, and is sold under various names; it is not so unctuous as the ordinary kind.
ROUGE AND RED PAINTS.
These preparations are in demand, not only for theatrical use, but by private individuals. Various shades of color are made, to suit the complexions of the blonde and brunette. One of the best kind is that termed
BLOOM OF ROSES.
Strong liquid ammonia, 1/2 oz. Finest carmine, 1/4 oz. Rose-water, 1 pint. Esprit de rose (triple), 1/2 oz.
Place the carmine into a pint bottle, and pour on it the ammonia; allow them to remain together, with occasional agitation, for two days; then add the rose-water and esprit, and well mix. Place the bottle in a quiet situation for a week; any precipitate of impurities from the carmine will subside; the supernatant "Bloom of Roses" is then to be bottled for sale. If the carmine was perfectly pure there would be no precipitate; nearly all the carmine purchased from the makers is more or less sophisticated, its enormous price being a premium to its adulteration.