Part 13
Carmine cannot be manufactured _profitably_ on a small scale for commercial purposes; four or five manufacturers supply the whole of Europe! M. Titard, Rue Grenier St. Lazare, Paris, produces, without doubt, the finest article; singular enough, however, the principal operative in the establishment is an old Englishman.
"The preparation of the finest carmine is still a mystery, because, on the one hand, its consumption being very limited, few persons are engaged in its manufacture, and, upon the other, the raw material being costly, extensive experiments on it cannot be conveniently made."--DR. URE.
In the _Encyclopédie Roret_ will be found no less than a dozen recipes for preparing carmine; the number of formulæ will convince the most superficial reader that the true form is yet withheld.
Analysis has taught us its exact composition; but a certain dexterity of manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete success.
Most of the recipes given by Dr. Ure, and others, are from this source; but as they possess no practical value we refrain from reprinting them.
TOILET ROUGES.
Are prepared of different shades by mixing fine carmine with talc powder, in different proportions, say, one drachm of carmine to two ounces of talc, or one of carmine to three of talc, and so on. These rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake or china pots; for the latter the rouge is mixed with a minute portion of solution of gum tragacanth. M. Titard prepares a great variety of rouges. In some instances the coloring-matter of the cochineal is spread upon thick paper and dried very gradually; it then assumes a beautiful green tint. This curious optical effect is also observed in "pink saucers." What is known as Chinese book rouge is evidently made in the same way, and has been imported into this country for many years.
When the bronze green cards are moistened with a piece of damp cotton wool, and applied to the lips or cheeks, the color assumes a beautiful rosy hue. Common sorts of rouge, called "theatre rouge," are made from the Brazil-wood lake; another kind is derived from the safflower (_Carthamus tinctorius_); from this plant also is made
PINK SAUCERS.
The safflower is washed in water until the yellow coloring-matter is removed; the carthamine or color principle is then dissolved out by a weak solution of carbonate of soda; the coloring is then precipitated into the saucers by the addition of sulphuric acid to the solution.
Cotton wool and crape being colored in the same way are used for the same purpose, the former being sold as Spanish wool, the latter as Crépon rouge.
SECTION XV.
TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.
TOOTH powders, regarded as a means merely of cleansing the teeth, are most commonly placed among cosmetics; but this should not be, as they assist greatly in preserving a healthy and regular condition of the dental machinery, and so aid in perfecting as much as possible the act of mastication. In this manner, they may be considered as most useful, although it is true, subordinate medicinal agents. By a careful and prudent use of them, some of the most frequent causes of early loss of the teeth may be prevented; these are, the deposition of tartar, the swelling of the gums, and an undue acidity of the saliva. The effect resulting from accumulation of the tartar is well known to most persons, and it has been distinctly shown that swelling of the substance of the gums will hasten the expulsion of the teeth from their sockets; and the
## action of the saliva, if unduly acid, is known to be at least injurious,
if not destructive. Now, the daily employment of a tooth powder sufficiently hard, so as to exert a tolerable degree of friction upon the teeth, without, at the same time, injuring the enamel of the teeth, will, in most cases, almost always prevent the tartar accumulating in such a degree as to cause subsequent injury to the teeth; and a flaccid, spongy, relaxed condition of the gums may be prevented or overcome by adding to such a tooth powder, some tonic and astringent ingredient. A tooth powder containing charcoal and cinchona bark, will accomplish these results in most cases, and therefore dentists generally recommend such. Still, there are objections to the use of charcoal; it is too hard and resisting, its color is objectionable, and it is perfectly insoluble by the saliva, it is apt to become lodged between the teeth, and there to collect decomposing animal and vegetable matter around such particles as may be fixed in this position. Cinchona bark, too, is often stringy, and has a bitter, disagreeable taste. M. Mialhe highly recommends the following formula:--
MIALHE'S TOOTH POWDER.
Sugar of milk, one thousand parts; lake, ten parts; pure tannin, fifteen parts; oil of mint, oil of aniseed, and oil of orange flowers, so much as to impart an agreeable flavor to the composition.
His directions for the preparation of this tooth powder, are, to rub well the lake with the tannin, and gradually add the sugar of milk, previously powdered and sifted; and lastly, the essential oils are to be carefully mixed with the powdered substances. Experience has convinced him of the efficacy of this tooth powder, the habitual employment of which, will suffice to preserve the gums and teeth in a healthy state. For those who are troubled with excessive relaxation and sponginess of the gums, he recommends the following astringent preparation:--
MIALHE'S DENTIFRICE.
Alcohol, one thousand parts; genuine kino, one hundred parts; rhatany root, one hundred parts; tincture of balsam of tolu, two parts; tincture of gum benzoin, two parts; essential oil of canella, two parts; essential oil of mint, two parts; essential oil of aniseed, one part.
The kino and the rhatany root are to be macerated in the alcohol for seven or eight days; and after filtration, the other articles are to be added. A teaspoonful of this preparation mixed in three or four spoonfuls of water, should be used to rinse the mouth, after the use of the tooth powder.
CAMPHORATED CHALK.
Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Powdered orris-root, 1/2 lb. Powdered camphor, 1/4 lb.
Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with a little spirit, then sift the whole well together. On account of the volatility of camphor, the powder should always be sold in bottles, or at least in boxes lined with tinfoil.
QUININE TOOTH POWDER.
Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Starch Powder, 1/2 lb. Orris powder, 1/2 lb. Sulphate of quinine, 1 drachm.
After sifting, it is ready for sale.
PREPARED CHARCOAL.
Fresh-made charcoal in fine powder, 7 lbs. Prepared chalk, 1 lb. Orris-root, 1 lb. Catechu, 1/2 lb. Cassia bark, 1/2 lb. Myrrh, 1/4 lb.
Sift.
PERUVIAN BARK POWDER.
Peruvian bark in powder, 1/2 lb. Bole Ammoniac, 1 lb. Orris powder, 1 lb. Cassia bark, 1/2 lb. Powdered myrrh, 1/2 lb. Precipitated chalk, 1/2 lb. Otto of cloves, 3/4 oz.
HOMOEOPATHIC CHALK.
Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Powder orris, 1 oz. " starch, 1 oz.
CUTTLE FISH POWDER.
Powdered cuttle-fish, 1/2 lb. Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Powder orris, 1/2 lb. Otto of lemons, 1 oz. " neroli, 1/2 drachm.
BORAX AND MYRRH TOOTH POWDER.
Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Borax powder, 1/2 lb. Myrrh powder, 1/4 lb. Orris, 1/4 lb.
FARINA PIESSE'S POWDER.
Precipitated chalk, 2 lbs. Orris-root, 2 lbs. Rose pink, 1 drachm. Very fine powdered sugar, 1/2 lb. Otto of neroli, 1/2 drachm. " lemons, 1/4 oz. " bergamot, 1/4 oz. " orange-peel, 1/4 oz. " rosemary, 1 drachm.
ROSE TOOTH POWDER.
Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Orris, 1/2 lb. Rose pink, 2 drachms. Otto of rose, 1 drachm. " santal, 1/4 drachm.
OPIATE TOOTH PASTE.
Honey, 1/2 lb. Chalk, 1/2 lb. Orris, 1/2 lb. Rose Pink, 2 drachms. Otto of cloves, } " nutmeg, } each, 1/2 drachm. " rose, } Simple syrup, enough to form a paste.
MOUTH WASHES.
VIOLET MOUTH WASH.
Tincture of orris, 1/2 pint. Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. Spirit, 1/2 pint. Otto of almonds, 5 drops.
EAU BOTOT.
Tincture of cedar wood, 1 pint. " myrrh, 1/4 pint. " rhatany, 1/4 pint. Otto of peppermint, 5 drops.
All these tinctures should be made with grape spirit, or at least with pale unsweetened brandy.
BOTANIC STYPTIC.
Rectified spirit, 1 quart. Rhatany root, } Gum myrrh, } of each, 2 oz. Whole cloves, }
Macerate for fourteen days, and strain.
TINCTURE OF MYRRH AND BORAX.
Spirits of wine, 1 quart. Borax, } Honey, } of each, 1 oz. Gum myrrh, 1 oz. Red sanders wood, 1 oz.
Rub the honey and borax well together in a mortar, then gradually add the spirit, which should not be stronger than .920, _i.e._ proof spirit, the myrrh, and sanders wood, and macerate for fourteen days.
TINCTURE OF MYRRH WITH EAU DE COLOGNE.
Eau de Cologne, 1 quart. Gum myrrh, 1 oz.
Macerate for fourteen days, and filter.
CAMPHORATED EAU DE COLOGNE.
Eau de Cologne, 1 quart. Camphor, 5 oz.
SECTION XVI.
HAIR WASHES.
ROSEMARY WATER.
Rosemary free from stalk, 10 lbs. Water, 12 gallons.
Draw off by distillation ten gallons for use in perfumery manufacture.
ROSEMARY HAIR WASH.
Rosemary water, 1 gallon. Rectified spirit, 1/2 pint. Pearlash, 1 oz.
Tinted with brown coloring.
ATHENIAN WATER.
Rose-water, 1 gallon. Alcohol, 1 pint. Sassafras wood, 1/4 lb. Pearlash, 1 oz.
Boil the wood in the rose-water in a glass vessel; then, when cold, add the pearlash and spirit.
VEGETABLE OR BOTANIC EXTRACT.
Rose-water, } Rectified spirits, } of each, 2 quarts. Extrait de fleur d'orange, } " jasmin, } " acacia, } of each, 1/4 pint. " rose, } " tubereuse, } Extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint.
This is a very beautifully-scented hair wash. It retails at a price commensurate with its cost.
ASTRINGENT EXTRACT OF ROSES AND ROSEMARY.
Rosemary water, 2 quarts. Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. Rectified spirit, 1-1/2 pint. Extract of vanilla, 1 quart. Magnesia to clear it, 2 oz.
Filter through paper.
SAPONACEOUS WASH.
Rectified spirit, 1 pint. Rose-water, 1 gallon. Extract of rondeletia, 1/2 pint. Transparent soap, 1/2 oz. Hay saffron, 1/2 drachm.
Shave up the soap very fine; boil it and the saffron in a quart of the rose-water; when dissolved, add the remainder of the water, then the spirit, finally the rondeletia, which is used by way of perfume. After standing for two or three days, it is fit for bottling. By transmitted light it is transparent, but by reflected light the liquid has a pearly and singular wavy appearance when shaken. A similar preparation is called Egg Julep.
BANDOLINES.
Various preparations are used to assist in dressing the hair in any
## particular form. Some persons use for that purpose a hard pomatum
containing wax, made up into rolls, called thence _Baton Fixeteur._ The little "feathers" of hair, with which some ladies are troubled, are by the aid of these batons made to lie down smooth. For their formula, see p. 224, 225.
The liquid bandolines are principally of a gummy nature, being made either with Iceland moss, or linseed and water variously perfumed, also by boiling quince-seed with water. Perfumers, however, chiefly make bandoline from gum tragacanth, which exudes from a shrub of that name which grows plentifully in Greece and Turkey.
ROSE BANDOLINE.
Gum tragacanth, 6 oz. Rose-water, 1 gallon. Otto of roses, 1/2 oz.
Steep the gum in the water for a day or so. As it swells and forms a thick gelatinous mass, it must from time to time be well agitated. After about forty-eight hours' maceration it is then to be squeezed through a coarse clean linen cloth, and again left to stand for a few days, and passed through a linen cloth a second time, to insure uniformity of consistency; when this is the case, the otto of rose is to be thoroughly incorporated. The cheap bandoline is made without the otto; for colored bandoline, it is to be tinted with ammoniacal solution of carmine, i.e. _Bloom of Roses_. See p. 236.
ALMOND BANDOLINE
Is made precisely as the above, scenting with a quarter of an ounce of otto of almonds in place of the roses.
"Nor the sweet smell Of different flowers in odor and in hue Can make me any longer story tell."
Shakspeare.
[Illustration]
APPENDIX.
* * * * *
MANUFACTURE OF GLYCERINE.
Glycerine is generally made on the large scale, on the one hand, by directly saponifying oil with the oxide of lead, or, on the other, from the "waste liquor" of soap manufacturers. To obtain glycerine by means of the first of these methods is the reverse of simple, and at the same time somewhat expensive; and by means of the second process, the difficulty of entirely separating the saline matters of the waste liquor renders it next to impossible to procure a perfectly pure result. To meet both these difficulties, and to meet the steadily increasing demand for glycerine, Dr. Campbell Morfit recommends the following process, which, he asserts, he has found, by experience, to combine the desirable advantages of economy as regards time, trouble, and expense. One hundred pounds of oil, tallow, lard, or stearin are to be placed in a clean iron-bound barrel, and melted by the direct application of a current of steam. Whilst still fluid and warm, add to it fifteen pounds of lime, previously slaked, and made into a milky mixture with two and a half gallons of water; then cover the vessel, and continue the steaming for several hours, or until the saponification shall be completed. This may be known when a sample of the soap when cold gives a smooth and bright surface on being scraped with the finger-nail, and at the same time, breaks with a crackling noise. By this process the fat or oil is decomposed, its acids uniting with the lime to form insoluble lime-soap, while the eliminated glycerine remains in solution in the water along with the excess of the lime. After it has been sufficiently boiled, it is allowed to cool and to settle, and it is then to be strained.
The strained liquid contains only the glycerine and excess of lime, and requires to be carefully concentrated by heated steam. During evaporation, a portion of the lime is deposited, on account of its lesser solubility in hot than in cold water. The residue is removed by treating the evaporated liquid with a current of carbonic acid gas, boiling by heated steam to convert a soluble bicarbonate of lime that may have been formed into insoluble neutral carbonate, decanting or straining off the clear supernatant liquid from the precipitated carbonate of lime, and evaporating still further, as before, if necessary, so as to drive off any excess of water. As nothing fixed or injurious is employed in this process, glycerine, prepared in this manner, may be depended upon for its almost absolute purity.
M. Jahn's process is as follows:--
Take of finely-powdered litharge five pounds, and olive oil nine pounds. Boil them together over a gentle fire, constantly stirring, with the addition occasionally of a small quantity of warm water, until the compound has the consistence of plaster. Jahn boils this plaster for half an hour with an equal weight of water, keeping it at the same time constantly stirred. When cold, he pours off the supernatant fluid, and repeats the boiling three times at least with a fresh portion of water. The sweet fluids which result are mixed, and evaporated to six pounds, and sulphuretted hydrogen conducted through them as long as sulphuret of lead is precipitated. The liquid filtered from the sulphuret of lead is to be reduced to a thin syrupy consistence by evaporation. To remove the brown coloring matter, it must be treated with purified animal charcoal. However, this agent does not prevent the glycerine becoming slightly colored upon further evaporation. It possesses also still a slight smell and taste of lead plaster, which may be removed by diluting it with water, and by digestion with animal charcoal, and some fresh burnt-wood charcoal. After filtration, this liquid must be evaporated until it has acquired a specific gravity of 1.21, when it will be found to be free from smell, and of a pale yellow color. For the preparation of glycerine, distilled water is necessary, to prevent it being contaminated with the impurities of common water. Jahn obtained, by this method, from the above quantity of lead plaster, upwards of seven ounces of glycerine.--_Archives der Pharmacie_.
* * * * *
TEST FOR ALCOHOL IN ESSENTIAL OILS.
J.J. Bernoulli recommends for this purpose acetate of potash. When to an ethereal oil, contaminated with alcohol, dry acetate of potash is added, this salt dissolves in the alcohol, and forms a solution from which the volatile oil separates. If the oil be free from alcohol, this salt remains dry therein.
Wittstein, who speaks highly of this test, has suggested the following method of applying it as the best:--In a dry test-tube, about half an inch in diameter, and five or six inches long, put no more than eight grains of powdered dry acetate of potash; then fill the tube two-thirds full with the essential oil to be examined. The contents of the tube must be well stirred with a glass rod, taking care not to allow the salt to rise above the oil; afterwards set aside for a short time. If the salt be found at the bottom of the tube dry, it is evident that the oil contains no spirit. Oftentimes, instead of the dry salt, beneath the oil is found a clear syrupy fluid, which is a solution of the salt in the spirit, with which the oil was mixed. When the oil contains only a little spirit, a small portion of the solid salt will be found under the syrupy solution. Many essential oils frequently contain a trace of water, which does not materially interfere with this test, because, although the acetate of potash becomes moist thereby, it still retains its pulverent form.
A still more certain result may be obtained by distillation in a water-bath. All the essential oils which have a higher boiling-point than spirit, remain in the retort, whilst the spirit passes into the receiver with only a trace of the oil, where the alcohol may be recognized by the smell and taste. Should, however, a doubt exist, add to the distillate a little acetate of potash and strong sulphuric acid, and heat the mixture in a test-tube to the boiling-point, when the characteristic odor of acetic ether will be manifest, if any alcohol be present.
* * * * *
DETECTION OF POPPY AND OTHER DRYING OILS IN ALMOND AND OLIVE OILS.
It is known that the olein of the drying oils may be distinguished from the olein of those oils which remain greasy in the air by the first not being convertible into elaidic acid, consequently it does not become solid. Professor Wimmer has recently proposed a convenient method for the formation of elaidin, which is applicable for the purpose of detecting the adulteration of almond and olive oils with drying oils. He produces nitrous acid by treating iron filings in a glass bottle with nitric acid. The vapor of nitrous acid is conducted through a glass tube into water, upon which the oil to be tested is placed. If the oil of almonds or olives contains only a small quantity of poppy oil when thus treated, it is entirely converted into crystallized elaidin, whilst the poppy oil swims on the top in drops.
* * * * *
COLORING MATTER OF VOLATILE OILS.
BY G.E. SACHSSE.
It is well known that most ethereal oils are colorless; however, there are a great number colored, some of which are blue, some green, and some yellow. Up to the present time the question has not been decided, whether it is the necessary property of ethereal oils to have a color, or whether their color is not due to the presence of some coloring matter which can be removed. It is most probable that their color arises from the presence of a foreign substance, as the colored ethereal oils can at first, by careful distillation, be obtained colorless, whilst later the colored portion passes over. Subsequent appearances lead to the solution of the question, and are certain evidence that ethereal oils, when they are colored, owe their color to peculiar substances which, by certain conditions, may be communicated from one oil to another. When a mixture of oils of wormwood, lemons, and cloves is subjected to distillation, the previously green-colored oil of wormwood passes over, at the commencement, colorless, while, towards the end of the distillation, after the receiver has been frequently charged, the oil of cloves distils over in very dense drops of a dark green color. It therefore appears that the green coloring matter of the oil of wormwood has been transferred to the oil of cloves.--_Zeitschrift für Pharmacie._
* * * * *
ARTIFICIAL PREPARATION OF OIL OF CINNAMON.
BY A. STRECKER.
Some years since, Strecker has shown that styrone, which is obtained when styracine is treated with potash, is the alcohol of cinnamic acid. Wolff has converted this alcohol by oxidizing agents into cinnamic acid. The author has now proved that under the same conditions by which ordinary alcohol affords aldehyde, styrone affords the aldehyde of cinnamic acid, that is, oil of cinnamon. It is only necessary to moisten platinum black with styrone, and let it remain in the air some days, when by means of the bisulphite of potash the aldehyde double compound may be obtained in crystals, which should be washed in ether. By the addition of diluted sulphuric acid, the aldehyde of cinnamic acid is afterwards procured pure. These crystals also dissolve in nitric acid, and then form after a few moments crystals of the nitrate of the hyduret of cinnamyle. The conversion of styrone into the hyduret of cinnamyle by the action of the platinum black is shown by the following equation:
C_{18}H_{10}O_{2} + 2 O = C_{18}H_{8}O_{2} + 2 HO.--_Comptes Rendus._
* * * * *
DETECTION OF SPIKE OIL AND TURPENTINE IN LAVENDER OIL
BY DR. J. GASTELL.
There are two kinds of lavender oil known in commerce; one, which is very dear, and is obtained from the flowers of the _Lavandula vera_; the other is much cheaper, and is prepared from the flowers of the _Lavandula spica_. The latter is generally termed oil of spike. In the south of France, whether the oil be distilled from the flowers of the _Lavandula vera_ or _Lavandula spica_, it is named oil of lavender.
By the distillation of the whole plant or only the stalk and the leaves, a small quantity of oil is obtained, which is rich in camphor, and is there called oil of spike. Pure oil of lavender should have a specific gravity from .876 to .880, and be completely soluble in five parts of alcohol of a specific gravity of .894. A greater specific gravity shows that it is mixed with oil of spike; and a less solubility, that it contains oil of turpentine.
* * * * *
DIFFERENT ORANGE-FLOWER WATERS FOUND IN COMMERCE
BY M. LEGUAY.