Part 8
Spirit (from corn), 6 gallons. Otto of neroli, _Petit-grain_, 2 oz. " " _Petale_, 1/2 " " rosemary, 2 " " orange-peel, } " lemon, } of each, 4 " " bergamot, }
Although Eau de Cologne was originally introduced to the public as a sort of "cure-all," a regular "elixir of life," it now takes its place, not as a pharmaceutical product, but among perfumery. Of its remedial qualities we can say nothing, such matter being irrelevant to the purpose of this book. Considered, however, as a perfume, with the public taste it ranks very high; and although it is exceedingly volatile and evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality which is called "refreshing." Whether this be due to the rosemary or to the spirit, we cannot say, but think something may be attributed to both. One important thing relating to Eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed, and that is, the quality of the spirit used in its manufacture. The utter impossibility of making brandy with English spirit in any way to resemble the real Cognac, is well known. It is equally impossible to make Eau de Cologne with English spirit, to resemble the original article. To speak of the "purity" of French spirit, or of the "impurity" of English spirit, is equally absurd. The fact is, that spirit derived from grapes, and spirit obtained from corn, have each so distinct and characteristic an aroma, that the one cannot be mistaken for the other. The odor of grape spirit is said to be due to the oeanthic ether which it contains. The English spirit, on the other hand, owes its odor to fusel oil. So powerful is the oeanthic ether in the French spirit, that notwithstanding the addition to it of such intensely odoriferous substances as the ottos of neroli, rosemary, and others, it still gives a characteristic perfume to the products made containing it, and hence the difficulty of preparing Eau de Cologne with any spirit destitute of this substance.
Although very fine Eau de Cologne is often made by merely mixing the ingredients as indicated in the recipe as above, yet it is better, first, to mix all the citrine ottos with spirit, and then to distil the mixture, afterwards adding to the distillate the rosemary and nerolies, such process being the one adopted by the most popular house at Cologne.
A great many forms for the manufacture of Eau de Cologne have been published, the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no knowledge, in a practical sense, of what they were putting by theory on paper; other venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the aromatics of Lindley's Botany, and would persuade us to use absinthe, hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm, peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme, &c. &c. &c.
All these, however, are but hum--! Where it is a mere matter of profit, and the formula that we have given is too expensive to produce the article required, it is better to dilute the said Cologne with a weak spirit, or with rose-water, rather than otherwise alter its form; because, although weak, the true aroma of the original article is retained.
The recipe of the second quality of Eau de Cologne is given, to show that a very decent article can be produced with English spirit.
FLOWERS OF ERIN.
Extract of white rose (see WHITE ROSE), 1 pint. " vanilla, 1 oz.
ROYAL HUNT BOUQUET.
Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. " neroli, } " acacia, } " fleur d'orange, } of each 1/4 " " musk, } " orris, } " tonquin, 1/2 " Otto of citron 2 drachms.
BOUQUET DE FLORA; OTHERWISE, EXTRACT OF FLOWERS.
Esprit de rose,} " tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " violette, } Extract of benzoin, 1-1/2 oz. Otto of bergamot, 2 " " lemon, } " orange, } of each, 1/2 "
THE GUARDS' BOUQUET.
Esprit de rose, 2 pints. " neroli, 1/2 pint. Extract of vanilla, 2 oz. " orris, 2 " " musk, 1/4 pint. Otto of cloves, 1/2 drachm.
FLEUR D'ITALIE; OR ITALIAN NOSEGAY.
Esprit de rose, from pomade, 2 pints. " rose triple, 1 pint. " jasmine, } " violette, } from pomade, each, 1 " Extract of cassie, 1/2 " " musk, } " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz.
JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_English formula._)
Extract of orris root, 2 pints. Esprit de rose, triple, 1 pint. " rose de pomade, 1 " Extrait de cassie, } " tubereuse, } de pomade, of each 1/2 " " ambergris, } 1/2 " Otto of bergamot, 1/2 oz.
JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_French formula._)
Esprit de rose, de pomade, 1 pint. " tubereuse, 1 " " cassie, 1/2 " " jasmine, 1/4 " Extract of civet, 3 oz.
Independently of the materials employed being different to the original English recipe, it must be remembered that all the French perfumes are made of brandy, _i.e._ grape spirit; whereas the English perfumes are made with corn spirit, which alone modifies their odor. Though good for some mixtures, yet for others the grape spirit is very objectionable, on account of the predominance of its own aroma.
We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and French spirit; the marked distinction of British and Parisian perfumes made according to the same recipes is entirely due to the different spirits employed. Owing to the strong "bouquet," as the French say, of their spirit in comparison with ours, the continental perfumers claim a superiority in the quality of their perfumes. Now, although we candidly admit that _some_ odors are better when prepared with grape spirit than with that from corn spirit, yet there are others which are undoubtedly the best when prepared with spirit derived from the latter source. Musk, ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine, if we require to retain their true aroma when in solution in alcohol, must be made with the British spirit.
All the citrine odors, verveine, vulnerary waters, Eau de Cologne, Eau de Portugal, Eau d'Arquebuzade, and lavender, can alone be brought to perfection by using the French spirit in their manufacture. If extract of jasmine, or extract of violet, &c., be made with the French or brandy spirit, the true characteristic odor of the flower is lost to the olfactory nerve--so completely does the oeanthic ether of the grape spirit hide the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it. This solves the paradox that English extract of violet and its compounds, "spring flowers," &c., is at all times in demand on the Continent, although the very flowers with which we make it are grown there.
On the contrary, if an English perfumer attempts to make Eau de Portugal, &c., to bear any comparison as a fine odor to that made by Lubin, of Paris, without using grape spirit, his attempts will prove a failure. True, he makes Eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit, but judges of the article--and they alone can stamp its merit--discover instantly the same difference as the connoisseur finds out between "Patent British" and foreign brandy.
Perhaps it may not be out of place here to observe that what is sold in this country as British brandy is in truth grape spirit, that is, foreign brandy very largely diluted with English spirit! By this scheme, a real semblance to the foreign brandy flavor is maintained; the difference in duty upon English and foreign spirit enables the makers of the "capsuled" article to undersell those who vend the unsophisticated Cognac.
Some chemists, not being very deep in the "tricks of trade," have thought that some flavoring, or that oeanthic ether, was used to impart to British spirit the Cognac aroma. An article is even in the market called "Essence of Cognac," but which is nothing more than very badly made butyric ether.
On the Continent a great deal of spirit is procured by the fermentation of the molasses from beet-root; this, of course, finds its way into the market, and is often mixed with the grape spirit; so, also, in England we have spirit from potatoes, which is mixed in the corn spirit. These adulterations, if we may so term it, modify the relative odors of the primitive alcohols.
A JAPANESE PERFUME.
Extract of rose triple, } " vitivert, } " patchouly, } of each, 1/2 pint. " cedar, } " santal, } " vervaine, 1/4 "
KEW GARDEN NOSEGAY.
Esprit de neroli (_Petale_), 1 pint. " cassie, } " tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " jasmine, } " geranium, 1/2 " " musk, } of each, 3 oz. " ambergris, }
EAU DES MILLEFLEURS.
Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. " rose de pomade,} " tubereuse, } " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " fleur d'orange,} " cassie, } " violette, } Extract of cedar, 1/4 " Extract of vanilla, } " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz. " musk, } Otto of almonds, } " neroli, } of each, 10 drops. " cloves, } " bergamot, 1 oz.
These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then filtered prior to sale.
MILLEFLEURS ET LAVENDER.
Essence of lavender (_Mitcham_), 1/2 pint. Eau des millefleurs, 1 "
DECROIX'S MILLEFLOWER LAVENDER.
Spirits from grape, 1 pint. French otto of lavender, 1 oz. Extract of ambergris, 2 oz.
The original "lavender aux millefleurs" is that of Delcroix; its peculiar odor is due to the French otto of lavender, which, although some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto of lavender; hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor, and has almost superseded the original preparations.
There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as lavender and ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and maréchale, &c., all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with about 15 per cent. of any of the other ingredients.
BOUQUET DU MARECHALE.
Esprit de rose triple, } } of each, 1 pint. Extrait de fleur d'orange, }
" vitivert, } " vanilla, } " orris, } of each, 1/2 " " tonquin, } Esprit de neroli, } Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 pint. " ambergris, } Otto of cloves, } of each, 1/2 drachm. " santal, }
EAU DE MOUSSELAINE.
Bouquet maréchale, 1 pint. Extrait de cassie, } " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " tubereuse,} " rose, } Otto of santal, 2 drachms.
BOUQUET DE MONTPELLIER.
Extrait de tubereuse, 1 pint. " rose de pomade, 1 " " rose triple, 1 " Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 " " ambergris, } Otto of cloves, 1-1/2 drachm. " bergarmot, 1/2 oz.
CAPRICE DE LA MODE.
Extrait de jasmine, } " tubereuse, } of each, 1/2 pint. " cassie, } " fleur d'orange, } Otto of almonds, 10 drops. " nutmegs, 10 " Extract of civet, 1/4 pint.
MAY FLOWERS.
Extract of rose (de pomade), } " jasmine, } of each, 1/2 pint. " fleur d'orange, } " cassie, } " vanilla, 1 " Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm.
NEPTUNE, OR NAVAL NOSEGAY.
Extrait de rose, triple, } " santal, } of each, 1/2 pint. " vitivert, } " patchouly, } " verbena, 1/8 "
BOUQUET OF ALL NATIONS.
Countries wherein the Odors are produced. TURKEY, Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint. AFRICA, Extract of jasmine, 1/2 " ENGLAND, " lavender, 1/4 " FRANCE, " tubereuse, 1/2 " SOUTH AMERICA, " vanilla, 1/4 " TIMOR, " santal, 1/4 " ITALY, " violet, 1 " HINDOOSTAN, " patchouly, 1/4 " CEYLON, Otto of citronella, 1 drachm. SARDINIA, " lemons, 1/4 oz. TONQUIN, Extract of musk, 1/4 pint.
ISLE OF WIGHT BOUQUET.
Extract of orris, 1/2 pint. " vitivert, 1/4 " " santal, 1 " " rose, 1/2 "
BOUQUET DU ROI.
Extract of jasmine, } " violet, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " rose } " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint. " vitivert, } " musk, } of each, 1 oz. " ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. " cloves, 1 drachm.
BOUQUET DE LA REINE.
Esprit de rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. Extrait de violette, } " tubereuse, 1/2 " " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz.
RONDELETIA.
The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made. Its inventors, Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen, have probably taken the _name_ of this odor from the _Rondeletia_, the _Chyn-len_ of the Chinese; or from the R. odorata of the West Indies, which has a sweet odor. We have before observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different sources: that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract of violet in such proportion that, although the odor is increased, yet the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed. Again: there are certain odors which, on being mixed in due proportion, produce a new aroma, perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself. This effect is exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when mixed, upon the nerve of vision: such, for instance, as when yellow and blue are mixed, the result we call green; or when blue and red are united, the compound color is known as puce or violet.
Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce a new fragrance, _i.e._ Rondeletia! It is such combinations that constitute in reality "a new perfume," which, though often advertised, is very rarely attained. Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma, and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or hiding the presence of the other. In this way we discover that patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most delicate.
Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much, when we express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve, as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains. By tutoring the olfactory nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter in the atmosphere of the most subtle nature: not only that which is pleasant, but also such as are unhealthful. If an unpleasant odor is a warning to seek a purer atmosphere, surely it is worth while to cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the general benefit of health.
To return, however, to Rondeletia: it will be seen by the annexed formulæ, that, besides the main ingredients to which it owes its peculiar character--that is, cloves and lavender--it contains musk, vanilla, &c. These substances are used in these as in nearly all other bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the handkerchief.
ESSENCE OF RONDELETIA.
Spirit (brandy 60 o.p.), 1 gallon. Otto of lavender, 2 oz. " cloves, 1 oz. " roses, 3 drachms. " bergamot, 1 oz. Extract of musk, } " vanilla, } each, 1/4 pint. " ambergris, }
The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for sale. Very excellent Rondeletia may also be made with English spirit.
BOUQUET ROYAL.
Extract of rose (from pomade), 1 pint. Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 " Extract of jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1/2 " " violet, } " verbena, } each, 2-1/2 oz. " cassie, } Otto of lemons, } each, 1/4 oz. " bergamot, } Extract of musk, } each, 1 oz. " ambergris, }
SUAVE.
Extract of tubereuse, } " jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. " cassie, } " rose, } " vanilla, 5 oz. " musk, } each, 2 oz. " ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. " cloves, 1 drachm.
SPRING FLOWERS.
Extract of rose, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. " violet, } " rose, triple, 2-1/2 oz. " cassie, 2-1/2 oz. Otto of bergamot, 2 drachms. Extract of ambergris, 1 oz.
The just reputation of this perfume places it in the first rank of the very best mixtures that have ever been made by any manufacturing perfumer. Its odor is truly flowery, but peculiar to itself. Being unlike any other aroma it cannot well be imitated, chiefly because there is nothing that we are acquainted with that at all resembles the odor of the esprit de rose, as derived from macerating rose pomade in spirit, to which, and to the extract of violet, nicely counterpoised, so that neither odor predominates, the peculiar character of "Spring Flowers" is due; the little ambergris that is present gives permanence to the odor upon the handkerchief, although from the very nature of the ingredients it may be said to be a fleeting odor. "Spring Flowers" is an Englishman's invention, but there is scarcely a perfumer in Europe that does not attempt an imitation.
TULIP NOSEGAY.
Nearly all the tulip tribe, although beautiful to the eye, are inodorous. The variety called the Duc Van Thol, however, yields an exquisite perfume, but it is not used by the manufacturer for the purpose of extracting its odor. He, however, borrows its poetical name, and makes an excellent imitation thus:--
Extract of tubereuse, } from pomade each, 1 pint. " violet, } " rose, 1/2 " " orris, 3 oz. Otto of almonds, 3 drops.
VIOLETTE DES BOIS.
Under the head Violet, we have already explained the method of preparing the extract or essence of that modest flower. The Parisian perfumers sell a mixture of violet, which is very beautiful, under the title of the Violet des Bois, or the Wood Violet, which is made thus:--
Extract of violet, 1 pint. " orris, 3 oz. " cassie, 3 oz. " rose (from pomade) 3 oz. Otto of almonds, 3 drops.
This mixture, in a general way, gives more satisfaction to the customer than the pure violet.
WINDSOR CASTLE BOUQUET.
Alcohol, 1 pint. Otto of neroli, } " rose, } each, 1/4 oz. " lavender, } " bergamot, } " cloves, 8 drops. Extract of orris, 1 pint. " jasmine, } each, 1/4 " " cassie, } " musk, } each, 2-1/2 oz. " ambergris, }
YACHT CLUB BOUQUET.
Extract of santal, 1 pint. " neroli, 1 " " jasmine, } each, 1/2 " " rose triple, } " vanilla, 1/4 " Flowers of benzoin, 1/4 oz.
We have now completed the branch of the Art of Perfumery which relates to handkerchief perfumes, or wet perfumery. Although we have rather too much encroached upon the space of this work in giving the composition of so many bouquets, yet there are many left unnoticed which are popular. Those that are given are noted more particularly for the peculiar character of their odor, and are selected from more than a thousand recipes that have been practically tried.
Those readers who require to know anything about the simple extracts of flowers are referred to them under their respective alphabetical titles.
SECTION VII.
The previous articles have exclusively treated of Wet Perfumes; the present matter relates, to Dry Perfumes,--sachet powders, tablets, pastilles, fumigation by the aid of heat of volatile odorous resins, &c. &c. The perfumes used by the ancients were, undoubtedly, nothing more than the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various trees and shrubs indigenous to the Eastern hemisphere: that they were very extensively used and much valued, we have only to read the Scriptures for proofs:--"Who is this that cometh ... perfumed with myrrh and frankincense, with all the powders of the merchant?" (Song of Solomon, 3:6.) Abstaining from the use of perfume in Eastern countries is considered as a sign of humiliation:--"The Lord will take away the tablets, and it shall come to pass that instead of a sweet smell there shall be a stink." (Exod. 35:22; Isaiah 3:20, 24.) The word tablets in this passage means perfume boxes, curiously inlaid, made of metal, wood, and ivory. Some of these boxes may have been made in the shape of buildings, which would explain the word _palaces_, in Psalm 14:8:--"All thy garments smell of myrrh, and aloes, and cassia, out of the ivory palaces, whereby they have made thee glad." From what is said in Matt. 2:11, it would appear that perfumes were considered among the most valuable gifts which man could bestow;--"And when they (the wise men) had opened their treasures, they presented unto him (Christ) gifts; gold, and frankincense, and myrrh." As far as we are able to learn, all the perfumes used by the Egyptians and Persians during the early period of the world were _dry_ perfumes, consisting of spikenard (_Nardostachys jatamansi_), myrrh, olibanum, and other gum-resins, nearly all of which are still in use by the manufacturers of odors. Among the curiosities shown at Alnwick Castle is a vase that was taken from an Egyptian catacomb. It is full of a mixture of gum-resin, &c., which evolve a pleasant odor to the present day, although probably 3000 years old. We have no doubt that the original use of this vase and its contents were for perfuming apartments, in the same way that pot pourri is now used.
SACHET POWDERS.
The French and English perfumers concoct a great variety of these substances, which being put into silk bags, or ornamental envelopes, find a ready sale, being both good to smell and economical as a means of imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they lie in drawers. The following formula shows their composition. Every material is either to be ground in a mill, or powdered in a mortar, and afterwards sifted.
SACHET AU CYPRE.
Ground rose-wood, 1 lb. " cedar-wood, 1 lb. " santal-wood, 1 lb. Otto of rhodium, or otto of rose, 3 drachms.
Mix and sift; it is then fit for sale.
SACHET A LA FRANGIPANNE.
Orris-root powder, 3 lbs. Vitivert powder, 1/4 lb. Santal-wood powder, 1/4 lb. Otto of neroli, } " rose, } of each, 1 drachm. " santal, } Musk-pods, ground, 1 oz.
The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from a Roman of the noble family of Frangipani. Mutio Frangipani was an alchemist, evidently of some repute, as we have another article called rosolis, or ros-solis, _sun-dew_, an aromatic spirituous liquor, used as a stomachic, of which he is said to be the inventor, composed of wine, in which is steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and musk.
HELIOTROPE SACHET.
Powdered orris, 2 lbs. Rose leaves, ground, 1 lb. Tonquin beans, ground, 1/2 lb. Vanilla beans, 1/4 lb. Grain musk, 1/4 oz. Otto of almonds, 5 drops.
Well mixed by sifting in a coarse sieve, it is fit for sale.
It is one of the best sachets made, and is so perfectly _au naturel_ in its odor to the flower from which it derives its name, that no person unacquainted with its composition would, for an instant, believe it to be any other than the "real thing."
LAVENDER SACHET.
Lavender flowers, ground, 1 lb. Gum benzoin, in powder, 1/4 lb. Otto of lavender, 1/4 oz.
SACHET A LA MARECHALE.
Powder of santal-wood, 1/2 lb. " orris-root, 1/2 lb. Rose-leaves, ground, 1/4 lb. Cloves, ground, 1/4 lb. Cassia-bark, 1/4 lb. Grain musk, 1/2 drachm.
SACHET A LA MOUSSELAINE.