CHAPTER XVI

.—Second Antiquarian Expedition—The Shores of Lake

Managua once more—Matearas—Don Henrique’s Comadre—I am engaged as Godfather—An Amazon—Santa Maria de Buena Vista—A “Character” in Petticoats—“La Negrita y La Blanquita”—Purchase of Buena Vista—A Yankee Idea in a Nicaraguan Head—Hints for Speculators—Muchacho vs. Burro—Equestrian Intoxication—Another Apostrophe!—Pescadors—“Hay no mas,” and “Esta aqui,” as Measures of Distance—Managua—The “Malpais,” Nindiri and Masaya—Something Cool—A Pompous Alcalde—How to Arrest Conspirators—Flowers of the Palm—Descent to the Lake—Memorials of Catastrophes—Las Aguadoras—New Mode of Sounding Depths—Ill-bred Monkeys—Traditional Practices—Oviedo’s Account of the Lake in 1529—Sardines—The Plaza on Market Night—A Yankee Clock—Something Cooler—A State Bedroom for a Minister—Ancient Church—Filling out a Vocabulary—“Quebrada de las Inscripciones”—Sculptured Rocks—Their Character—Ancient Excavations in the Rock—“El Baño”—Painted Rocks of Santa Catarina—Night Ride to Granada—The Laguna de Salinas by Moonlight—Granada in Peace—A Query Touching Human Happiness—New Quarters and Old Friends—An American Sailor—His Adventures—“Win or Die”—A Happy Sequel, 413

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