CHAPTER III

.—The Magnates of San Juan—Captain Samuel Shepherd—Royal

Grants—Vexatious Delays—Imposing Departure—Entrance of the River San Juan—“Peeling” of the Marineros—Character of the Stream—The Juanillo—An Immemorial Stopping-place—Bongos and their Equipments and Stores—Meals—Esprit du Corps among the Boatmen—The “Oracion”—Queer Caprices—Medio—Our Accommodation—A Specimen Night on the River—Morning Scenes and Impressions—Bongo Life—The Colorado Mouth—Change of Scenery—The Iguana—A Solitary Establishment—Tropical Ease—The Rio Serapiqui—Fight between the Nicaraguans and the English—“A famous victory”—The Rio San Francisco—Remolino Grande—Picturesque River Views—The Hills and Pass of San Carlos—Thunder Storms—The Machuca Rapids—Melchora Indians—Rapids of Mico and Los Valos—Rapids of the Castillo—Island of Bartola—Capture by Lord Nelson—The “Castillo Viejo,” or Old Castle of San Juan—“A Dios California!”—Ascend to the Ruins—Strong Works—Capture of the Fort by the English in 1780—Failure of the Expedition against Nicaragua; a Scrap of History—Passage of the Rapids—Different Aspect of the River—A Black Eagle—Ninety Miles in Six Days—The Port of San Carlos—Great Lake of Nicaragua—Land at San Carlos—The Commandante—Hearty Welcome—Novel Scenes—Ancient Defences—View from the Fort—The Rio Frio—The Gnatosos Indians—A Paradise for Alligators—Some Happy Institutions of theirs, 55

##