Part 25
The service over, we proceeded to examine the church. The cloisters are oddly irregular in shape, and look out on the snow-topped Pyrenees. So beautiful was the prospect that I added this cloister setting to the dream-cathedral Spain tempts one to build. It would have the cloisters of Tarragona with this outlook of Gerona's; also Gerona's altar and _retablo_, though the reredos of Avila and that of Tarragona are worthy rivals. There would be the grand staircase of this Cathedral, and it would ascend to a western portal like León's, with Santiago's _Pórtico de la Gloria_ within; the north and south doors would be Plateresque from Salamanca and Valladolid. The cathedral would be set on Lérida's crag, with the city of Toledo climbing to it and the Tagus churning below. The nave would be Seville's, and Seville's windows would light it and her organ thunder there. The choir would be Toledo's, carved by Rodrigo, Berruguete, and Vigarni, the chancel Barcelona's stilted arches. How they could be combined is hard to solve, but round this _capilla mayor_ would run the double ambulatory of Toledo, and the apse outside have León's flying buttresses,--the apse which the old mystics held as symbolic of the crown of thorns about the head of Christ (the Altar). _Rejas_ from Burgos, Granada, Seville, would guard the chapels, and tombs of knights and bishops from Sigüenza, from Zamora--from every town of Spain in fact--would line the walls: tapestries and treasures from Saragossa; a _via crucis_ by Hernández and portrait statues by Montañés; a sacristy like that of Avila; a _sala capitular_ copied from the Renaissance grace of San Benito in Alcántara; and a wealth of side chapels,--a Condestable chapel, a San Isidoro, a Cámera Santa, a San Millán, a Santa María la Blanca, and an isolated shrine like Palencia's, standing in the ambulatory. And always beneath the vault of this cathedral would be found far-off little Lugo's solemn adoration, and there would be processions as imposing as Andalusia, with the piety of Estremadura, or the Basque. The Giralda, built in the warm red stone of Astorga tower, would stand close by, and not far away, a monastery, line for line, like Poblet. Sitting in a Spanish cloister looking out on the Pyrenees, one drifts into dream-pictures of the ideal cathedral.
Gerona has a few other churches worth examining, that of San Feliu, with two Roman sarcophagi and several early Christian ones with wave-like lines. We rambled about the plaza where a fair was in progress, and at every turning kept bidding farewell to familiar scenes of Spanish life; we were not again to hear the peace-bringing "_Vaya Usted con Dios!_" not again to assent to the cordial "_Hasta luego!_"
The city is massively built, but it has a battered look, and no wonder. During the French invasion, Gerona stood a siege as terrific as any in history, yet who of us has heard of it? In May, 1809, a French army surrounded the city where there were only three thousand soldiers for the defense, yet for seven months the town defied the invaders, and that with half a dozen breaches in the walls. The women shouldered guns and drilled in a battalion formed by Doña Lucía Fitzgerald; old men and children piled up the earth of the ramparts; cloistered nuns, at a higher call, left their convents to nurse the wounded to whom they gave up their cells, so many priests fell fighting on the walls that no services were held in the churches, there was only the burning of candles; no one bought or sold, for every shopman was a soldier. When a gallant English volunteer died on the ramparts, he exclaimed that he lost his life gladly in a cause so just for a nation so heroic.
The French drew closer and closer, and slowly the city starved. The hardships endured were incredible. They ate rats and mice, yet no thought came of surrender. A hot August dragged by, in September the French attacked fiercely and on both sides the men fell like flies. Who was the soul of this indomitable fortitude? The order and subordination told of a master mind, and Gerona had one, Don Mariano Alvarez de Castro, the inflexible governor. He it was who enrolled the women and children in the defense; his lofty spirit never wavered, and his force of character gave him so accepted an authority that he was able to direct a hopeless defense without recourse to cruelty. The siege of Gerona was not stained by any brutal act.
The blockade drew closer. By October literally all food was gone, and the people began to fall in the streets to a foe more terrible than bullets. Governor Alvarez stood like a rock of courage. When he passed up the Cathedral steps where the heart-rending groups of the dying lay, his very presence gave hope: if there was a faint-hearted citizen in Gerona, he was more afraid of that iron man than of the French. Never would the governor have yielded, but toward the close of the year he fell ill in the infested air, and as he lay in delirium the city capitulated. With hundreds of dead bodies lying unburied in the streets, there was nothing else to be done.
Then followed a scene which did honor to the invader; it rings with the same chivalry that Velasquez painted in the "Surrender of Breda," where Spínola bends to meet the conquered Nassau, the same spirit that made those Frenchmen of an earlier day carry a certain wounded knight, their prisoner, on a litter from Pamplona across the mountains to his castle of Loyola. The foreign troops marched into Gerona in a dead silence, with not a gesture of triumph, moved to awe by the corpses that covered the pavements and to reverence by the few hollow-eyed, living skeletons that met them. The moral victory lay with the conquered. When food was offered the starved people, even that was at first refused. Don Mariano Alvarez, taken prisoner on his bed, died mysteriously, poisoned, some say, in the fortress of Figueras not long after. And all this horror and heroism was only a hundred years ago!--we too walked the streets of Gerona in silent reverence.
Then once again on the train; more volcanic hills, more dry rivers that showed what the spring torrents must be like, and in a few hours Port-Bou, the Spanish frontier town, was reached. We stood at the car window looking out sadly on the last of Spain as the train swept round the blue inlets of the Mediterranean.
Farewell to this great Christian democracy where the simple title of Don is borne by king and people alike, to the "nation least material of Europe," farewell to a grave, contented race, whose leaders left noble works as noble as their lives, whose writers were soldiers and heroes, where artists prepared for religious scenes by fasting and prayers, where mystics were not negative and inert, but emerged from their union with God with more power for practical life, whose women have by instinct the dignity of womanhood, untainted yet by luxury, a land that can boast the two first women of all ages and countries, an Isabella of Castile, and a St. Teresa.
Some may think I carry admiration too far. Carping criticism of Spain has been pushed to such an extent that it is time to swing to the other side: where there can be no joy, no admiration, there can be no stimulus. I like to take M. René Bazin's words as if addressed to me: "Vous avez raison de croire à la vitalité de l'Espagne. Elle n'a jamais été une nation déchue, elle a été une nation blessée."
A wounded nation but not one stricken to death. She is recovering. Let her but be patient and aspire slowly; disciplined, tried in the fire and purified, by living without the ceaseless upheavals of the past century, by industry, by commerce, with no encumbering colonies to drain her blood, with the Catalans calling the Castilians "_paisanos_," she will get back her former strength and _brio_. Her literature, her art, are lifting their heads.
My prayer for Spain in her rehabilitation is, that she may not diverge from her national spirit and traditions, may modern ideas not change her unworldliness and her stoical endurance, "_su esencia inmortal y su propio carácter_." May she guard her faith, her glory in the past and her aspiration for the future, the faith of the Cross that has struck deeper root here than in any spot on earth, but remembering always that her own greatest saint warns her: "In the spiritual life not to advance is to go back." May she never lose the virile independence of character that so distinguishes her people, the pride of simple manhood that looks out of the eyes of her honorable peasantry and makes their innate courtesy. No nation was ever formed so completely by the chivalry of the Middle Ages as Spain. May she always be _España la heróica_!
INDEX
Acuña, tomb of Bishop, 40, 41
Africa, 74, 86, 87, 178, 230, 245, 246, 337, 409, 416, 417
Ajustina of Aragon ("Maid of Saragossa"), 381
Alacón, Pedro Antonio de, 151, 328, 335, 336, 337
Alas, Leopoldo, 93, 328, 341, 342, 349
Alba de Tormes, 159, 160, 200, 205-210
Albertus Magnus, 414
Alcalá de Henares, 28, 67, 73, 142, 238, 244, 246, 249, 342, 372
Alcántara, 359-364, 394
Alcántara, St. Peter of, 199
Alfonso II, _el Casto_, 90, 94
Alfonso VI, 87, 116, 129, 231, 236
Alfonso VIII, _él de las Navas_, 50, 84
Alfonso X, _el sabio_, 134, 291, 375
Alfonso XI, 250
Alfonso XII, 179, 180, 217, 333, 337, 343
Alfonso XIII, 50, 174, 180, 181, 182, 217, 287, 289, 290, 291, 292, 351, 355
Alhambra, the, 86, 258, 265-272, 280, 396
Almohades, the, 88
Almoravides, the, 88
Altamira y Crevea, Sr. Rafael, 327
Alva, Duke of, 65, 205
Alvarez de Castro, Mariano, 426, 427, 428
Amadeus I (Duke of Aosta), 179, 333
America, the U. S. of, 9, 16, 18, 41, 64, 128, 140, 209, 332, 370, 397, 411
America, South, 90, 177, 211, 248, 290, 319, 332, 364, 365, 366, 395, 397
Amicis, Edmondo de, 259
Amiens, cathedral of, 81, 415
Andalusia, 2, 37, 87, 102, 105, 112, 151, 178, 189, 225, 230, 242, 257 259, 316, 317, 319, 333, 336, 343
Aquinas, St. Thomas, 187, 414
Aragon, 79, 105, 226, 372, 375-384, 391
Architecture, 9, 36, 42, 43, 48, 54, 81, 91, 147, 151, 232, 295, 385, 393, 400, 403, 421. _See_ Gothic, Romanesque, Plateresque
Arenal, Doña Concepción, 133
Arfe family, the de, 202, 312
Armory, Madrid, the Royal, 114, 220, 226, 227, 228
Arroyo, 360, 363, 368
Astorga, 4, 105, 113-116, 141, 159
Asturias, 4, 79-103, 105, 112, 267, 341, 346
Asturias, Prince of, 84, 85, 288, 291, 324
Athens, 149, 268, 423
Augustine, St., 18, 155, 156, 189, 246, 342
Augustus Cæsar, 107, 392
Averroës, 88, 319
Avila, 6, 159, 160, 162, 164, 166, 195-212, 213, 216, 269, 273, 396
Azcoitia, 14, 18, 23
Azpeitia, 23, 30, 31
Baalbec, ruins of, 353
Bacon, Lord, 28, 64, 69, 135
Bailén, battle of, 172, 380
Balearic Islands, 415
Balmes y Uspia, Jaime, 210
Baltazar Carlos, infante, Don, 60, 221, 227, 378
Balzac, Honoré de, 327, 333
Barcelona, 7, 8, 26, 28, 140, 146, 216, 345, 379, 394, 395-419, 421
Basque Provinces, 4, 13-32, 36, 79, 83, 101, 105
Bazán, Doña Emilia Pardo, _see_ Pardo Bazán
Bazin, M. René, 79, 258, 347, 429
Becerra, Gaspar, 115
Bécquer, Gustavo Adolfo, 256
Bembo, Pietro, Cardinal, 251
Benedict XIV, 136
Benedictine rule, the, 48, 49, 135, 136, 225, 364, 389
Benson, Rev. Robert Hugh, 188
Berruguete, Alonso de, 44, 60, 82, 205, 233, _illustration_ 256, 377, 424
Bidassoa, river, 15
Bilbao, 4, 91, 140, 412
Blasco Ibáñez, Vicente, 328, 340, 341
Boabdil, 227
Bobadilla, 2, 265
Bonaventura, St., 187, 414
Borgia, St. Francis (de Borja), 21, 26, 28, 30, 191, 199, 240, 251, 252, 253, 254, 371
Borromeo, St. Charles, 191, 255
Borrow, George, _quoted_, 283
Boston, U. S. A., 64, 118, 148, 224
Bourbon kings in Spain, the, 72, 136, 171, 173, 234, 324, 367
Briz, Francisco Pelayo, 411
Browning, Robert, 34
Brunetière, Ferdinand, 337
Budé, Guillaume, 28
Byron, Lord, 321, 381
Byzantine Influences in Spanish Art, 48, 94, 96, 108, 148, 262, 403, 423
Bull-fight, the, 11, 16, 127, 128, 129, 309, 358
Burgos, 4, 33-54, 55, 56, 57, 92, 95, 148, 189, 201, 204, 273, 424
Caballero, Fernán, _pseud_ (Doña Cecelia B. von F. de Arrom), 127, 328, 329, 330, 343, 411
Cáceres, 356, 357, 358, 359, 362, 364, 369
Cadiz, 7, 71, 143, 176, 178, 316-325
Calatyud, 376
Calderón de la Barca, Pedro, 240, 253, 327
Calvin, John, 68
Campion, Edmund, 68
Campoamor, Ramón de, 179, 274
Cano, Alonzo, 60, 61
Cano, Melchor, 153
Cantabrian mountains, 82, 83, 84, 102, 112, 122, 124, 347, 348
Carmelite Order, the, 183, 189, 198, 199, 200
Carmona, Salvador, _see_ _illustration_ 327
Carr, Sir John, 381, 382
Castelar y Ripoll, Emilio, 179
Castile, 6, 12, 34, 35, 36, 37, 40, 54, 55, 79, 83, 101, 105, 165, 184, 196, 201, 204, 211, 212, 228, 229, 238, 245, 247, 257, 259, 267, 282, 397, 411, 429
Catalan language, 409, 414, 418
Catalan question, 409-414
Catalonia, 3, 79, 101, 105, 134, 253, 383, 385, 388, 391, 392, 396, 397, 400, 404, 405, 409, 410, 411, 412, 414, 419, 421, 429
Cathedrals, Spanish, 38, 42, 43, 108, 149, 150, 151, 202, 219, 233, 261, 404, 421, 422, 423, 424. _Avila_, 110, 150, 201, 205, 232, 425. _Astorga_, 115, 425. _Barcelona_, 150, 403, 404, 424. _Burgos_, 36-48, 54, 148, 150, 424. _Cadiz_, 323. _Cordova_, 261-265. _Gerona_, 421-424. _Grenada_, 271, 424. _León_, 47, 57, 108-111, 150, 415, 424. _Lérida_, 385, 387, 388, 424. _Lugo_, 122, 123, 124, 425. _Oviedo_, 92, 93, 94, 108. _Palencia_, 80, 151, 425. _Santiago_, 57, 107. 130-133. _Salamanca_, 108, 146-148, 152. _Saragossa_, 151, 376, 377, 378, 424. _Seville_, 111, 150, 216, 232, 285, 287, 289, 292, 293-315, 424. _Segovia_, 165, 166, 167, 168. _Sigüenza_, 150, 374, 424. _Tarragona_, 393, 424. _Toledo_, 150, 216, 232-238, 415, 424. _Valladolid_, 56, 57. _Zamora_, 117, 118, 424
Catherine of Aragon, 28, 224, 342
Cavadonga, 85, 86, 94, 102, 172, 227, 406
Cellini, Benvenuto, 150, 216
Cervantes Saavedra, Miguel de, 69, 72-78, 142, 155, 166, 189, 228, 240, 249, 250, 253, 255, 326, 349
Charles I of England, 165
Charles V (Charles I of Spain), Emperor, 26, 39, 72, 129, 199, 204, 216, 218, 223, 227, 249, 251, 253, 261, 265, 269, 292, 365, 366, 367, 368
Charles II, 218, 221
Charles IV, 171, 175, 226
Chartres, Cathedral of, 81, 268, 400, 415
Chartreuse, La Grande, 24
Chesterton, Mr. Gilbert K., 100
Churches, Spanish: _Alcántara_; S. Benito, 364, 424. _Asturias_; S. M. de Naranco, 95, 96, 97, 403. S. Miguel de Lino, 96, 403. _Avila_; Encarnación, convent of, 197, 199. S. José, convent of, 190, 199, 200. S. Segundo, 205. Son soles, hermitage of, 202, 203. S. Tomás, 197, 203, 204, 205. _Barcelona_; S. Ana, 403. S. M. del Mar, 403. S. M. del Pino, 403. S. Pablo del Campo, 403. _Burgos_; Las Huelgas, convent of, 49, 50. Miraflores, convent of, 48. S. Lermes, 47. S. Nicolás, 46. _Cadiz_; S. Felipe Neri, 71, 324. Capuchin church, 323. _Gerona_; S. Feliu, 425. _Granada_; S. Gerónimo, 270. _Madrid_; S. Isidro, 57. _León_; S. Isidoro, 107, 108, 123, 214, 425. S. Marcos, 111. _Salamanca_; S. Esteban, 153, 154. Espíritu Santo, 153. _Seville_; S. Magdalena, 314. Omnium Sanctorum, 281. S. Paula, 281. S. Marcos, 281. University Church, 371. _Segovia_; S. Martín, 166. S. Millán, 166, 425. _Toledo_; S. Bartolomé, 235. S. Cristo de la Luz, 231. S. Cristo de la Vega, 256. S. Domingo, 235. S. M. la Blanca, 231, 425. S. Juan de los Reyes, 239. S. Pedro Mártir, 252. S. Tomé, 235, 253. El Tránsito, 231. _Valladolid_; S. Cruz, 59. S. M. la Antigua, 57. S. Gregorio, 59. S. Pablo, 59
Churriguera, José de, 25, 123, 152
Churrigueresque Architecture, 25, 57, 123, 152, 207, 219, 376
Cid Campeador, the, 50-54, 87, 108, 116, 117, 129, 147, 230, 231
Clavijo, battle of, 47, 96
Coloma, Padre Luis, 343
Colonna, Vittoria, 227, 333
Columbus, Christopher (Cristóbal Colón), 72, 78, 153, 154, 268, 301, 395, 396
Comuneros, uprising of the, 72, 204, 227, 366
Constantinople, 75, 131, 217, 234, 260, 262, 303
Constitutions of Spain, 174, 176-180, 204, 324, 382, 383
Cordova, 7, 87, 258-265, 281, 332
Córdova, Gonsalvo de, _Gran Capitán_, 227, 270, 319
Cortés, Hernán, 113, 146, 290
Coruña, 4, 91, 122, 125, 126, 344, 412
Cranmer, Thomas, Archbishop, 68
Crashaw, Richard, 27, 191, 194, 198
Creighton, Mandell, Bishop, 64
Cromwell, Oliver, 65
Dante Alighieri, 134, 414
Daoiz, Luis, 172, 324
Darro, river, 268, 271
Democracy, Spanish, 37, 49, 73, 92, 99, 100, 112, 144, 152, 168, 202, 204, 228, 238, 284, 309, 336, 345, 355, 358, 382, 392, 428
Descartes, René, 28, 194, 418
Deza, Diego de, 153, 154
Dickens, Charles, 9, 282
Domenech, Sr. Rafael, 234, 371
Dominic, St. (de Guzmán), 114, 319, 414
Dominican Order, the, 59, 153, 197, 203, 248
"Don Quixote," 9, 75, 76, 77, 85, 92, 105, 107, 138, 170, 259, 326, 327, 328, 331, 335, 341, 347, 354, 374, 383
_Dos de Mayo_ (May 2, 1808), 159, 172, 176, 225, 323, 324, 379, 380
Douro, river, 117
Dupanloup, Félix Antoine, Mgr., 189
Dürer, Albrecht, 356
Durham, 229
Ebro, river, 376
Edward I, of England, 49, 84
Edward VI, of England, 68
Egypt, 35, 417
Elche, 80, 310
Eleanor Plantagenet, Queen of Spain, 49, 50, 374
El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos), 215, 220, 234, 235, 238, 370, 371
Elizabeth of England (Tudor), 63, 372
Ellis, Mr. Henry Havelock, _quoted_, 314, 379
Emmet, Dr. Thos. Addis, 66
England, the English, 6, 9, 40, 63, 64, 66, 84, 112, 121, 140, 149, 170, 172, 175, 180, 209, 282, 316, 332, 352, 359, 370, 398, 405, 406, 417
English College, Valladolid, 62, 63, 71, 72
Erasmus, Desiderius, 28, 244, 272, 342
Escorial, the, 56, 194, 211, 213-219, 234, 421
Eslava, Miguel Hilarión, 302, 315
Espartero, General, 178
Espluga, 389, 390
Estremadura, 7, 34, 105, 145, 351-368, 425
Eugénie, Empress, 114
Eyck, Jan van, 224
Ferdinand I, _el Magno_, 116
Ferdinand III, _el Santo_, 50, 227, 289, 292
Ferdinand V, _el Católico_, 19, 72, 245, 247, 249, 272, 378
Ferdinand VII, 173, 174, 176, 177, 179, 381
Feijóo y Montenegro, Benito Gerónimo, 70, 135, 136, 210
Fernán Caballero, _see_ Caballero
Feuillet, Octave, 371
Figueras, 428
Fisher, John, Bishop, 68
Fitzmaurice-Kelley, Mr. James, _quoted_, 193
Flaubert, Gustave, 346
Ford, Richard, 8, 65, 195, 219, 236, 266, 282, 359
Fortuny, Mariano, 408
Forment Damián, 377
France, the French, 6, 24, 33, 46, 66, 104, 108, 144, 149, 163, 169, 189, 251, 276, 347, 349, 371, 383, 397, 400, 407, 410, 421, 423, 427
Francia, Francisco Raibolini, _called_, 323
Francis of Assisi, St. 47, 128, 195, 218, _illustration_ 327
Franciscan Order, the, 77, 225, 239, 240, 249, 414, 417
Francis Borgia, St., _see_ Borgia
Francis I, of France, 244, 227, 373
Francis de Sales, St., _see_ Sales
Francis Xavier, St., _see_ Xavier
French Invasion, the, 35, 54, 58, 65, 142, 150, 157, 172, 176, 177, 232, 270, 323, 335, 380, 382, 425, 426, 427
Froude, James Anthony, 40, 195
Galdós, Benito Pérez, _see_ Pérez Galdós
Galicia, 4, 61, 105, 121-141, 159, 344, 345
Gallegos, Fernando, 323
Gandía, Duke of, _see_ Borgia, St. Francis
Ganivet, Angel, 22, 330, 420
Garcilaso de la Vega, 166, 227, 240, 250-252, 253
Gardner Collection, Boston, Mrs. J. L., 224
Gaudix, 151, 336
Gautier, Théophile, 20, 107, 226, 295
Gener, Sr. Pompeo, 410
Germaine de Foix, Queen of Aragon, 19, 247, 272
Germany, 6, 66, 112, 173, 237, 328
Gerona, 8, 173, 179, 323, 379, 412, 420-428
Gibraltar, 2, 3, 96
Gijón, 91, 412
Godoy, Manuel, Prince of the Peace, 65, 171, 175
Goethe, Johan Wolfgang von, _quoted_, 33
Gomez de Castro, Alvaro, 242
Góngora y Argote, Luis de, 252
Gothic Architecture, 46, 57, 80, 81, 93, 108, 111, 115, 123, 147, 153, 165, 167, 201, 216, 232, 233, 261, 303, 307, 364, 374, 385, 387, 391, 393, 403, 422
Goths, in Spain, the, 85, 96, 98, 115, 219, 227, 230, 231, 235, 318, 319, 368, 378
Goya, Francisco, 136, 220, 225, 226
Granada, 7, 60, 88, 217, 227, 239, 243, 244, 253, 265-273, 336, 406, 424
Granada, Luis de, 153, 252
Gregorovius, Ferdinand, 147
Greece, 96, 134, 234, 416, 423
Guadalajara, 8, 372, 373
Guadaloupe, 368
Guadalquivir, river, 230
Guadarrama Mountains, 6, 170, 214, 221
_Guardia Civil_, the, 101, 401, 402
Guipúzcoa, 14, 15
Guizot, François-Pierre-Guillaume, 70
Guzmán _el bueno_, 106
Guzmán family, the, 106, 114, 251
Guzmán, Domingo de, _see_ Dominic, St.
Gypsies, Spanish, 115, 267, 271
Hadrian, Emperor, 281
Hapsburg Kings, in Spain, 70, 72, 129, 204, 214, 324, 367
Hegel, Georg Wilhelm Friedrick, 326
Henry II of England, 84
Henry VII of England, 269
Henry VIII of England, 28, 85
Hernández, Gregorio, 61, 62, 424
Herrera, Fernando de, poet, 252
Herrera, Juan de, architect, 56, 57, 213, 376, 408
Hervás y Panduro, Lorenzo, 153
Hobson, Lieut. Richmond Pearson, 370
Hogarth, William, 225
Holy Week in Seville, 302-315
Hugo, Victor, 13, 339
Huysmans, Joris-Karl, 183, 187, 193, 225, 347, 385
Ignatius, St., _see_ Loyola
Infantado, Duke del, 373
Inquisition, the, 64-71, 136, 155, 176, 245, 324, 365
Invincible Armada, the, 40, 76, 90, 279, 283
Ireland, 66, 134, 178, 179
Irish College, Salamanca, 153, 157, 158
Irún, 2, 16
Irving, Washington, 86
Isabella I, the Catholic, 48, 64, 72, 85, 89, 129, 133, 137, 154, 162, 166, 173, 180, 182, 203, 204, 217, 227, 241, 242, 244, 245, 252, 268, 272, 273, 292, 342, 379, 402, 429
Isabella II, 166, 173, 174, 177, 179
Isabella of Portugal, Empress, 223, _illustration_ 253, 255
Isidoro, San, 107, 319
Isla, José Francisco de la, 70, 153, 210
Islamism, 65, 87, 88, 243, 262, 263, 264, 268, 417
Italica, 278, 281, 289, 359
Italy, the Italians, 5, 30, 60, 74, 96, 107, 173, 223, 224, 251, 270, 272, 276, 280, 281, 334, 349, 352, 370, 377, 408
Jaime I, _el Conquistador_, 106, 227, 391, 415
James, St., apostle, _él de España_, 97, 114, 121, 246
Jerez de la Frontera, 316
Jerusalem, 27, 121, 123, 263, 310, 311, 417
Jesuit Order, the, 20-32, 153, 225, 255, 343
Jews in Spain, the, 67, 70, 88, 318, 319, 332, 364, 365, 367, 368
Jimena, wife of the Cid, 50, 52, 53, 108, 116
Jimenez de Cisneros, _see_ Ximenez
John of Austria, Don, 73, 76, 227, 252
John of the Cross, St. (Juan de Yepes), 44, 70, 199, 234, 252
Jordán, Esteban, 60
Joubert, Joseph, 13, 24, 149
Juana _la loca_, 247, 271
Juan II, 48, 72, 113, 129
Juan de la Cruz, San, _see_ John of the Cross
Juní, Juan de, 60
Lafayette, General de, 16
La Granja, 168, 170, 171, 173, 174, 181
Lainez, Diego, 153, 255
Lancaster, John of Gaunt, Duke of, 84
Lannes, Jean, Marshall, 382
Larra, Mariano José de, 36
Las Huelgas, convent of, 49, 50, 153
Las Casas, Bartolomé de, 59, 153, 248
Lea, Henry Charles, 70
Lebrija, Doña Francisca de, 342
Lee, Robert E., General, 64
Legazpi, Miguel Lopez de, 18
Leibnitz, Gottfried Wilhelm von, 194
Lenormant, Charles, 70
León, city of, 4, 83, 105, 106-113, 114, 122, 214, 424, 425
León, province of, 4, 14, 34, 82, 104-120, 142, 157
León, Luis de, 44, 68, 70, 154-157, 193, 210, 252, 319, 349
Leonado da Vinci, 222, 370
Lepanto, Battle of, 73, 75, 216, 227
Lérida, 335-388, 412, 424
Lilly, Mr. W. S., _quoted_, 183
Llorente, Juan Antonio, 65
Lockhart, James Gibson, 52, 53
Lombardy, 57, 74, 96, 107, 400
London, 28, 220, 319, 417
Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, _quoted_, 316
Lorraine, Claude Gelée, _called_ Claude, 224
Loti, M. Pierre, 148, 149, 371
Louis IX of France, St., 50, 375, 416