CHAPTER VIII

.

THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO.

FIRST VISIT.

Picturesque Islands--Balambañgan--An old English Settlement--Large Monkeys--Optical Illusions--Flights of Birds--The Curlew--The way we shot them in Sarawak--Game--Banguey--Mali Wali--Cleared Hills--Fine Water--Sweet-smelling Jasmine--Cagayan Sulu--Intercourse with the Inhabitants--Appearance of the Country--Lovely Scenery--Market--Inhabitants--Insolent Traders--The Crater Harbour--Wall of Evergreen--Inner Lake--Climb the Cliff--Scenery--Alligators numerous--Sulu--Appearance from the Ship--Sugh, the Capital--Mr. Wyndham--The Watering-place--Suspicious Natives--Fugitives from Balignini--Reports--A Market--The Mountaineers civil--Walk to the Palace--The Stockades--Armed Crowd--Audience Hall--Absurd Reports--The Sultan and his Nobles--Dress--Politeness of the Sultan--Return to the Ship--Datu Daniel--The Racecourse--Effect of Dutch Shot--Tulyan Bay--Alarm of Villagers--Sulu Government--Laws--Feuds--The Mahomedan and the Pork--Population--Fighting-men--Slave Market--Dignified carriage of the Nobles--Dress--The Balignini--Dutch Attack--Appearance of the Country--Good Position of Island--Tulyan--Basilan--Numerous Islets--Samboañgan--Spanish Convict Settlement--Description of Country--Fort--Town--Shops--The Church--The Men--The Women--The Corner Shop--A Ball--Dancing difficult--Waltzes--Supplies at Samboañgan--A lonely Grave.

During all the voyages I have made, I have never beheld islands so picturesque as those scattered over the surface of the Sulu Seas, or whose inhabitants more merited notice. I will therefore give a short account of the visits I made thither, before the attacks of the Spanish forces had altered the ancient state of affairs. I have already delineated the north-west coast, and will therefore commence my description from the island of Balambañgan, to the north of Maludu Bay, which must always be of some interest to Englishmen from our two unsuccessful attempts to form a settlement there.

We dropped anchor off Balambañgan, which at night appears a low wooded island. I visited it in the morning in a cutter, and vainly sought any fresh traces of human beings, though we found some old deserted huts of the fishermen who frequent this shore for tripang. Continuing our explorations, we noticed something moving along the beach, and there were various conjectures among our party, some affirming it to be a buffalo, others a man; I never was more deceived in my own estimate of the size of an animal, as it proved to be a large monkey, which with its companions was seeking shell-fish on the sands; it was certainly very large, but not of such dimensions as to warrant its being compared to a bull, but there appeared to be some optical illusion caused by its looming over the water.

Pursuing our path along the beach, the seamen at last thought they saw houses among the trees, but on landing we found we were again deceived by a row of white rocks, prettily overhung with creepers. Though no traces of inhabitants were to be found, yet animal life was well represented, innumerable monkeys swarmed at the edge of the jungle, while flights of birds of every kind kept rising before us. I never saw more monstrous pelicans, but after having been so deceived by the monkeys, I must not attempt to estimate their height. The best birds, however, for culinary purposes, were the curlews, some of which are as large as small fowls: unfortunately we were not provided with shot, and ball fell harmlessly among them.

They are wary birds, but may yet be readily circumvented. There is a spot at the entrance of one of the minor branches of the Sarawak river, where the curlews congregate in thousands, but only at the height of spring-tides can you get profitable shots at them. There are broad sands there, and the birds spread over them to feed; by degrees the rising waters gradually press them back towards the wooded shore; and as beach after beach is covered, they fly screaming above in wide circles, gradually narrowing till they all settle on the spot near which the sportsmen lie concealed, either behind scattered bushes, or in a prepared bower of leafy branches. The evening has well closed in before the tip-top of high-water; and the loud scream of the myriads of birds deadens the detonation of the guns as they send their iron shower among them, enabling us to load and reload without completely scaring the birds. We once obtained ninety-five of the largest kind, and hundreds of smaller ones, to feast the crowd who were assembled near preparatory to a great tuba-fishing.

Balambañgan is admirably situated to command the China seas; however, if its position be superior to Labuan, the latter has coal to counterbalance that advantage. While strolling along the beach we came upon the tracks of cattle, deer, and pigs, and another party from the ship had the good fortune to secure a large supply of excellent fish with the seine. This island, as well as the neighbouring coast of the mainland, appears to swarm with game; I landed on the latter, and found an extensive open plain, diversified with a few low eminences, backed by some cleared hills, and there the tracks of wild cattle, deer, and pigs were innumerable. The rhinoceros is also reported to be occasionally seen, but we came across no traces of it.

Continuing our voyage, we passed the island of Banguey, in the northern part of which there are fine peaked hills, with inhabitants, and plenty of good water, therefore far preferable to Balambañgan for a settlement; as if the harbours be not good, there is sufficient shelter against both monsoons.

The next island is Mali Wali, and here we anchored to examine it. We tried at many places, but found the little creeks shallow and lined with mangrove swamps; but by landing on the south side, at the east end of the stone beach, there is but a few minutes’ walk in dry forest between the shore and the cleared land. The appearance of the island is remarkable; for miles the hills apparently are clothed with grass, with only a narrow belt of jungle skirting the shingly beach; the reality, however, disappointed us, as we found that this verdant-looking land was but a heap of soft sandstone, with long coarse grass growing up between the crevices. However, there is a good supply of clear water from tiny streams and springs, and the tracks of deer were observed in many places, while on all sides a species of wild jasmine grew in luxuriance, bearing a very sweet-scented flower.

This island did not tempt us to stay long, so we steered for Cagayan Sulu, which is a gem in the ocean; it has three peaks, wooded, but varied by grassy glades, groves of cocoa-nuts and fruit-trees, partly concealing and partly revealing scattered houses and villages. It is, indeed, a picturesque island from every view. Our first intercourse appeared likely to be unfriendly. Steering round to the south-west side, we landed at a place where we saw some houses close to the beach, and as we pulled ashore, we could see the inhabitants gathering in armed groups; however, we were received with great civility, and explained the object of our visit, which was to inquire what fresh provisions could be procured there. We did not stay long, as they promised to bring us down next day a good supply.

When we landed on the following morning, we found a very large party assembled with several fine bullocks for sale; while the bargaining was going on I wandered inland with a companion to have a look at the country. Wherever we went we found plantations of cocoa-nuts and plantains, and round the houses were small vegetable gardens, while between the dwellings were occasionally extensive tracks of long coarse grass, on which were herds of bullocks feeding.

At length we came to a spot which tempted us to rest. It was a rock overhanging a tiny bay, thrown into deep shade by the tall graceful palms which bent over it; while looking inland across the gently sloping fields of long high grass interspersed with groves, we could see parties of natives marching in Indian file, with their bright spear-heads flashing in the sun, winding their way down to the extemporized market. We sat under the shade of some areca palms; which, though young, and not twenty feet in height, were yet covered with fruit and freshly expanded blossoms, which shed a delicious perfume through the whole grove.

Our bargaining prospered, as fine cattle were secured at thirty shillings a piece, ducks for two wine bottles, fine cocks and hens for one; as well as a couple of pretty ponies, cocoa-nut oil and nuts, plantains, limes, ginger, onions, and fruits. This island, though formerly a dependency of Sulu, is now independent, and is governed by some of those half-bred Arabs who corrupt and weigh heavily on these countries. It is finely situated in the Sulu seas, and it is both healthy and fertile. The inhabitants appear much the same as those I had seen about Maludu Bay, and, with the exception of some strangers, were civil. The latter were traders who had visited Samboañgan, Manilla, and other Spanish ports, and were there corrupted, by intercourse with the low Europeans and dissipated classes who usually frequent such places; and at one time these men were so insolent that I thought their conduct would become unbearable, till they were quieted by my shooting down a cocoa-nut, as mentioned in my Limbang journal.

The most singular spot in this island is near the old crater-looking harbour, mentioned by Sir Edward Belcher, which we entered over a reef. It is almost circular, and is surrounded by lofty rocks clothed with trees, bushes, and hanging creepers, presenting a magnificent wall of evergreen. Rowing to the west side of the bay, and climbing to the top of a lofty bank, we had a splendid view of a remarkable almost circular, lake. The place where we stood was a gap between the lofty cliffs that rose on either hand, and appeared to have been formed by the inner waters bursting their boundary, and overthrowing the upper defences of this natural dam. The wooded cliff’s continue all round, forming a perfect barrier, now rising to a great height, then sinking to some fifty or sixty feet. The waters, elevated more than forty feet above the sea, lay in undisturbed repose, and presented for upwards of half a mile a clear mirror, reflecting back the rays of the sun and the deep shadow of the tall trees.

I mounted with some difficulty the top of the left-hand cliff, and had an extensive view through the tangled bushes. On one side were the waters of the crater, on the other the serene lake with the sea appearing beyond. We heard from the natives that alligators swarm in this secluded water, so that fish must be plentiful also, as few pigs could descend here. In the interior they say there is another more extensive lake of the same formation; this one was found to be eight fathoms deep at the edges, and forty in the centre.

Started from Cagayan Sulu, and after encountering rougher weather than we expected to find in this usually calm sea, lay to, as we thought we were not far from the island we were intending to visit.

At daylight the two peaks of Sulu were visible; and as we approached, the summits of the other hills appeared, while all the rest of the island lay enveloped in mist; but the sun soon dispelled this, and showed us the west coast of the lovely island of Sulu. The slopes of the hills presented alternate patches of cleared grassy land, with clumps of trees scattered over its face, reminding one of a noble English park; while a long dense line of cocoa-nut palms skirted the beach, among which were seen many houses and groups of inhabitants, who were no doubt watching our approach with much anxiety, as they had already suffered from the attacks of the Dutch and Spaniards; but the sight of the English flag no doubt restored their confidence.

Anchored off Sugh, the capital of Sulu, which is situated at the bottom of a bay, and appears small; but among the existing dwellings we could distinguish blackened piles, the remains of portions of the city burnt by the Dutch. On the right of the town is a high hill, curiously peaked and well wooded. Farther off to the left, and at the back, are many high mountains, some peaked, others rounded; but, as a whole, forming a beautiful view. A white flag, with a castle represented on it, waved over the fort, and a pilot jack marked the residence of Mr. Wyndham, an Englishman, settled here for the purposes of trade.

Very few natives came off, until at length a messenger arrived from the sultan to know who we were; we returned a suitable and, no doubt, a satisfactory reply, as the Sulus were in a state of great excitement, having suffered considerably from the recent shots of the Dutch ships. Having communicated with Mr. Wyndham, we went to see the watering-place about a mile to the west of the town, situated near the great tree to which I have alluded in my second account of Kina Balu, where we found the water bursting out of the sand, clear as crystal, and pleasant to the taste.

The tree is very fine, being at least thirteen feet in diameter, with a very sinewy stem. Mr. Wyndham walked with us a little way into the country, and showed us some of the houses, having much the same appearance as those of the Malays. These people are better-looking than most other inhabitants of the archipelago; but appeared to be suspicious, watching us at every point; in fact, we afterwards heard the fugitives from Balignini were scattered among them, and they had had no time to forget what they had suffered from the well-deserved attacks of the Spaniards. We then pulled to Mr. Wyndham’s house, a mere rough building, raised near the site of his former one, burnt by the Dutch--why or wherefore is inconceivable. The whole night after our arrival the country was in an uproar, reports spreading of the advent of innumerable ships, which made the inhabitants hurry their women, children, and goods up to the mountain. In the evening we took a friendly letter to the sultan.

_28th._--Went with the watering-party, but were unable to penetrate far, on account of heavy rain and the incivility of the natives, who waved us back. No answer, as yet, from the sultan.

_30th._--Landed at the watering-place, where the mountaineers were assembled at a sort of market, bartering, buying, and selling. We walked about a little, and then returned to the beach, where we were surrounded by some scores of men, women, and children from the mountains and neighbourhood; the former are said to be of a different race, but we saw little signs of it. The women, on the whole, are better-looking than the Malays, and some of the little girls were quite pretty; they are civil enough, but anxious to know our business.

In the afternoon we went to an audience with the sultan. Having landed at Mr. Wyndham’s, who led us by a long shaky platform to the shore, where we found numbers of armed natives assembled, an officer from the sultan led the way along a broad rough road with a high stockade on the left, and houses on the right. We passed in, through ever-increasing crowds, to a market-place, where the women were selling fowls, fish, and vegetables, till we came to a creek, over which a rude bridge took us to the palace. Before crossing, we observed a large brass 24-pounder showing through an embrasure. The stockade continued on the left, until we passed a large gate, where on a green were assembled some hundreds of men, armed with muskets, spears, heavy Lanun swords, and krises, and defended by shields, and some brass armour, and old Spanish-looking helmets.

The audience hall was on the right, and the house of prayer on the left. The crowd opening, we mounted some steps, and crossing a verandah thronged with armed men, found ourselves in the presence of the sultan. The audience hall is large, but perfectly bare of ornament, as all their valuable silks and hangings were packed up, and mostly sent to the hills, on account of an absurd report spread by the mate of the Spanish brig we found anchored near, which, when we came in sight, began to get under weigh, and stand out to sea.

On being questioned by the Chinese passengers, he said that we had given him notice to get out of the way, as we were about to bombard the town. The rumour having spread, the natives packed up their valuables, and spent the night in carrying their goods off to the hills, and in removing their women and children. This caused the suspicious behaviour of the people, and what tends to keep up their apprehensions a little is that the Spanish brig has not yet returned to her proper anchorage.

But to return to the hall. In the centre stood a round table; on the opposite side sat the sultan surrounded by his datus, and around were a number of empty chairs, on which we took our seats. After shaking hands, a few questions were asked, as, “What was the news? Was France quiet?” The sultan was very like the picture in Sir Edward Belcher’s book, and was dressed in light-flowered silk, with a very broad gold belt round his waist, a handsome kris, and gold bracelets, sparkling with jewels. Some of the datus were splendidly dressed in silks, gold brocades, handsome turbans and head-dresses, like golden tiaras; the young men were, as usual, the most gaudily decorated, while the old were in plain white jackets, and crowds of the better class sat behind and around us.

Observing that Sir James Brooke, who had lately suffered much from fever, looked hot and tired, the sultan politely broke up the audience, and we returned by the same path we came, and after sitting a short time with Mr. Wyndham, went on board to dine with Captain Keppel, where our Sulu acquaintance amused us with stories about the natives.

Went on shore to Mr. Wyndham’s to meet datu Daniel; very little conversation passed. He appears to be a quiet, good-natured man; his brothers are very fine fellows, and very fair; with them we went to see the race-course. Passing through a portion of the town, we came to an open grassy field, where a few men were trying their horses by trotting them over the sward. None of the chiefs being present, there were no trials of speed.

_2nd._--On shore early with our guide, but the people not appearing to like our penetrating into the country, we returned to Mr. Wyndham’s house, and as we passed the stockades, the Sulus laughingly pointed to some indentations in the wood where the shot from the Dutch ships had struck, but had done little damage.

_3rd._--Weighed anchor and stood along the coast for Tulyan Bay; but wind and tide being against us, we let go our anchor; sailing again at three, we found ourselves towards seven in Tulyan Bay, much to the discomfort of the villagers, whose shouts and screams could be distinctly heard on board. At last a couple of men came off and returned on shore after a few reassuring words from Mr. Wyndham, which appeared sufficient to pacify the inhabitants, as the noises ceased. Tulyan Bay is rather deep, and appears to be well protected, and takes its name from a pretty-looking island in the offing, which was ceded to the English in Dalrymple’s time--in fact, the inhabitants thought we were come to take possession.

_4th._--I must now endeavour to give the little information I collected concerning Sulu. The government is carried on by a sultan, with his council of datus; at the present time the principal power is held by datu Molok, an elder but illegitimate brother of the sultan--a shrewd-looking man with quick, inquiring eyes. The sultan is said to be well-intentioned; but, being weak in character, is totally unable to subdue the turbulent aristocracy by whom he is surrounded. In despair he is reported to give way to his fondness for opium-smoking.

The laws are but little respected, and ancient customs are fast falling into disuse, particularly one resembling a voluntary poor-rate. Every Sulu trader used to present five per cent. of his yearly profits to a fund, which was divided among the poor of the island. The mountaineers acknowledge the supremacy of the sultan, but refuse to pay tribute, and a government which cannot enforce that is not likely to be able to suppress feuds, or effectually to put down disturbances. Mr. Wyndham pointed out a man who was notorious as a murderer, and one instance he had himself witnessed of his bloodthirstiness.

Again, two mountaineers, bargaining for a slice of fish, quarrelled; they mutually seized each other’s weapons; one held the handle of his opponent’s kris, the other his spear shaft; they struggled, a fight ensued, the crowd collected, some took one side, some the other, and in a few minutes seven men lay gasping on the ground. It is not to be expected that the dependencies of the island will obey, when all is in such confusion. The sultan’s power is very limited, though the datus still send parties to raise contributions from the neighbouring towns, villages, and islands. In all decaying states we find religion neglected, and here, I imagine, it is held but in slight respect; their houses of prayer being like a tumble-down barn, and the inhabitants indulging in the use of wine, and occasionally pork.

Mr. Wyndham told us an amusing story of an old datu, who, going on business to a Chinese trader, began to find a delicious odour insinuatingly creeping over his senses.

“Ah,” said he, “what is this? some cooking, what is it?”

“Pork.”

“Pork?” said he; “ah!”

“Would you like to taste some?”

“Why,” he answered in a low voice, but cautiously surveying the room to see if he were watched, “yes, bring me a little.”

On tasting it, and finding it very good, he began to eat some more. Mr. Wyndham living next door, and hearing the old fellow’s noise, had removed some of the partition, and was watching him. He now coughed.

“Oh, I am ruined,” cried the datu; “who lives in the next house?”

“Signor Wyndham.”

“Then he has me in his power.”

Our informant then went in, and, laughing, shook the Mahomedan chief by the hand, and congratulated him on his freedom from prejudice. He ever after had much influence with the old man, who feared being exposed. The inland inhabitants call themselves Islamites, but are very lax and ignorant.

The Sulu language is soft; it contains, I believe, many Malay words and expressions, but it is essentially different; though the upper classes understand Malay, and also many of the lower, there being here numerous slaves from Borneo. The population, they say, is 200,000; it is probably 100,000; not less, from the numerous towns and villages along the coast, and the number of houses detached in twos and threes. On an extraordinary occasion, they say they could bring some 15,000 or 20,000 men into the field; but, in general, 5,000 would be as many as they could assemble. In fact, when the day of trouble came, they had not, perhaps, 2,000 to defend the town; and this may be readily accounted for, as a large proportion of the population is in servitude, which is, however, generally an easy state of existence.

The slaves are collected from all parts of the archipelago, from Acheen Head to New Guinea, and from the south of Siam to the most northern parts of the Philippines: it is a regular slave market. The Sulus themselves are a better-looking people than any I have yet seen; they are daring and independent, and the mountaineers, particularly, are a wild but polite people. Their young women and little girls are dark-eyed and good-featured, with easy figures; free, though not obtrusive, in their ways.

Bold and daring as the datus appear, they have much politeness in their manners, particularly datu Daniel and his brother; and on proper occasions their carriage is dignified and commanding. The lower orders are outwardly rough, violent, and fierce, yet have an inherent politeness, which, when inclined to show confidence, they display to much advantage. On state occasions the young men appear in splendid dresses, while the elder content themselves with plain clothes. The dress is the same as the rest of the archipelago--a jacket, trousers, sarong, and occasionally a shirt or under-vest. They all wear krises, and most of them also carry either muskets or spears.

The Balignini near the watering-places were the worst we met--insolent and inclined to pilfer; indeed, there was nearly a quarrel about some of the seamen’s clothes they tried to appropriate. To show their dislike, they planted sharp fish-bones round the watering-place, in the hope that our men, landing in the dark, might cut their feet. The Dutch burnt about two hundred houses, but did little injury to the stockades, which are, however, sadly out of repair. In proper order, well mounted with guns, they could make a good defence, as the walls facing the sea are about fifteen feet thick of mud and stone, encased with teak stockades. The rampart around the sultan’s palace is in the best repair, but not so thick as the others; and datu Daniel’s is by no means contemptible. The men, too, would fight bravely, as they did against the Dutch; but their guns, except the brass ones, are mostly dismounted, and they have no carriages ready; the iron ones are said to be those taken at Balambañgan, when they surprised and captured our settlement.

The appearance of the country from the sea is very beautiful, many of the hills rising to a peak some 2,000 feet above the level of the sea; while others are lower and wooded, and form an agreeable contrast. Several of these eminences are forest-covered to the summit, while many present alternate patches of rice cultivation, pasture land, groves of cocoa-nut, palms, gardens, and detached clumps of forest trees. It is by far the most beautiful island I have seen. Sulu, in good hands, might be made to produce every tropical production, and become the centre of the commerce in these seas. Ships, by staying a little time, may obtain bullocks, fowls, ducks, vegetables, fruits, cocoa-nuts, and very fine water at a very good watering-place. The duties on goods are high; nevertheless, Mr. Wyndham and the Spaniards carry on a profitable commerce.

Tulyan is rather a small island, with hills to the north, but low land on the south: the former with a few trees and some bananas, with cocoa-nut palms at the foot; the latter a little woody. Dalrymple gives some account of it. In his time the Spaniards had driven the natives away, burnt their houses, and cut down their fruit-trees; but there is now a large village along the beach, with many cocoa-nut groves. The inhabitants are pearl fishers.

Next day anchored off two woody islets; the captain, as usual, shelling and dredging. Islands are to be seen in the distance all around us.

_6th._--Anchored off Basilan. High hills and lowlands covered with woods, showing but few clearings. We counted eighteen islands at one time; among which were the late pirate haunts of Balignini and Tonquil. Beat about, and anchored off Samboañgan after dark.

We remained seven days at Samboañgan, walking and exploring in every direction, and enjoyed our stay there very much. Magindanau, as far as we have seen it, is very hilly and woody, with the exception of the neighbourhood of the Spanish settlement of Samboañgan, which has been cleared for some miles; though, for an old colony, not so much as might have been expected.

The town is situated on the west point of Lanun Bay, and from the sea appears much smaller than it is in reality. It presents no very striking features; the long, low, dark fort and whitewashed houses, intermixed with a few groves of cocoa-nuts, with forest on either side, and the hills, some cleared and some wooded, rising about seven miles inland, suggest a rough idea of this pleasant little town. The plain around is very well cultivated; as you walk along the roads--very much like English country ones--you have a continual series of large rice fields, cocoa-nut groves, now swelling into extensive plantations, then a few round a detached cottage, and intermixed with these are great quantities of bananas. Many small streams intersect the plain, adding much to its fertility, and are spanned by covered bridges.

The fort is to the right of the town, and has rather low walls, mounted with a good many guns; against a native force it must be impregnable, but a little shelling would soon subdue it. It is garrisoned by about two hundred and fifty native soldiers. Leaving its gate, you cross a large green, beyond which lies the principal portion of the town, laid out in a rectangular shape, with streets intersecting each other at equal distances. The houses are in general mere native ones; others a little superior; and perhaps a couple of dozen of a better class, in which reside the Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Commandant, and other officers. Almost every other house has a shop, in which cigars, spirits, chocolate, sugar, and various other articles are sold. The most respectable class keep retail shops, as well as the little traders.

Beyond this portion of the town is a little green, with the church--a long barn-like building. Seen within by the imperfect light of evening, it appeared destitute of ornaments, except round the altar, and beyond this are some more streets. The houses I entered had very little furniture; a small table, some chairs, a bedstead, and a kind of drawers, with a few shelves, complete the whole.

The people themselves are well worthy of notice. They are a mixture of Spaniards and natives; a few of pure blood, in the Government offices; the rest half-castes, mestiches, and natives. The men exhibit no remarkable features, except the Governor, Colonel Cayelano de Feguaroa, who was an agreeable man, and spoke French. We were much pleased with his liberal ideas and gentlemanly manners, and the other officers were equally polite and attentive. The generality of the native men are kind and civil, but with fat, unmeaning faces. The women are much better. The Lieutenant-Governor’s wife, the only pure Castilian in the place, was a very pretty woman, with fine eyes and regular features. The mestiches have in general good eyes and dark hair; but, with the exception of a few, their faces are too broad.

There was a famous corner shop opposite the church, which contained good specimens of the race:--Gabriella, likewise called Romantica, one of the handsomest women in the town, with pleasing features, and her sister, with the usual flat face. Every one visiting Samboañgan made that shop their place of call, as the staid old mother and the girls were very civil and hospitable.

In the country one could always obtain cocoa-nuts, and many of us were invited in to eat fruit and drink chocolate and gin by the obliging residents, whose pretty houses, embowered in fruit-trees, were an ornament to the road side.

The officers of the _Meander_ gave a ball. The quarter-deck was cleared of guns and surrounded with flags on all sides, and ornamented with green boughs. All the Spanish officers came, and about fifty of the townswomen, some young, others old. We danced quadrilles, waltzes, and polkas: the first caused much confusion, the second was well danced, while the third was quite new to most of them. The commandant gave one in return, which was kept up with greater spirit. Many of the girls were fairer and better-looking than those we saw on board, and a few were in European costumes, with shoes and stockings, while the rest had Malay petticoats, and little jackets with scarfs. Dancing the polka with them was found to be very difficult, as, few having chemises on, the hand constantly coming in contact with the skin, it was impossible to obtain a hold; and their little slippers were flying in every direction.

Their own band played waltzes very well by ear; but nothing else. Indeed, it is almost the only dance they care for, as the girls find it difficult to try any other, on account of their wearing slippers without heels, some of which are very prettily ornamented with gold and silver embroidery.

Supplies were scarce, though I saw a great many oxen and cows, some goats, fowls, and ducks; but its being a penal settlement, trade is obstructed and carefully watched to prevent the escape of convicts, and none could come to the ship without a pass. The ponies are very good, except the hacks; the water buffaloes are large, and employed to draw a peculiar sledge along the smooth roads. The chief amusement of the men on Sundays is cock-fighting: crowds assemble to witness this cruel sport; and then they show some money, which at other times appears so scarce that few shops could give change for a dollar. We observed that the rice was trodden out by the buffaloes, on hard beaten ground. Washing was dear, being eleven dollars a hundred.

_16th._--Started on our return voyage. Lay-to off a sand-bank not marked in the chart. A grave was found there with four bamboos stuck round, one at each corner, in the midst of thousands of birds, with immense numbers of eggs, some of which were brought off, and proved good eating. I will omit the ground we went over on our return, and give an account of a second visit we paid this archipelago.

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