CHAPTER XI

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SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

First Visit--Appearance of the Country--Scenery--Lovely Isles--Turtle--Method of Securing their Eggs--Their Enemies--Fish--The Dugong--Method of Capturing them--Graves of Englishmen at Po Point--First Evening in Borneo--A Welcome to the Rajah--Boats--Salute and Manning Yards--The Muaratabas Entrance--The River--The Town of Kuching--Sunset--Arrival--A noisy Procession--Extent of Sarawak--A well-watered Country--The Rejang--Extent of fertile Soil adapted to Sugar--Its Inhabitants--Different Races and Tribes--Population--Kuching, the Capital--Increase--Trade--Sago districts--Cotton--Seed sent by the Cotton Supply Association--Imported Labour required--Increased Production--Inferior Cultivation--Soil adapted to most Tropical Productions--Water communication--Minerals--Coal, Antimony, and Gold--Indications of other Minerals--Former Condition of the Country--Difficulties of Management--Forced Trade--Comfortable Position of the Dayaks--Influence of New System on the Malays--Distant Voyages--Remarkable Honesty--Anecdote--System of Government--An Unteachable Chief--Sons of Patinggi Ali--Their Good Conduct--Effect of Associating the Natives in the Government--The System introduced into all the Dependencies--Effect of Sir James Brooke’s Government--Anecdote of an old Chief--Gradual Development--Necessity for Support--The Chinese an Industrious and Saving Nation--Soundness in the System of Government--England with a Chinese Colony--Future of Borneo--Chinese amalgamate with Native Population--Female Emigration from China--Administration of Justice--The Sarawak Courts--Character of the Malays.

[Illustration:

T. Picken, lith. Published by Smith, Elder & C^o. 65, Cornhill, London. Day & Son, Lith^{rs} to the Queen.

GOVERNMENT HOUSE __ SARAWAK 1860.]

Sarawak and its dependencies next claim my attention, and I will give an account of my first visit to that place, as the notes I then made are more likely to present a true picture than any written subsequently. On August 31, 1848, we came in sight of Borneo; it was a dull and misty day, and the shores were not clearly visible, but the next morning it was bright and showed us in all its perfection the lovely country that skirts the shore between Datu and Sipang points. At first it appeared a confused mass of mountains, but the eye soon began to distinguish its varied features. The massive and lofty range of Poé bounded the scene to the westward, while the Matang occupied the centre of the picture, and the peak of Santubong and the Sipang hills completed it to the eastward. Between these are many lower ranges, and beyond could be seen various ridges and single mountains forming a background.

Though these high lands first attract the eye, yet it rests with greater pleasure on the beautiful valleys between, and none more beautiful than that at the foot of the Poé mountains, which stretches as far as the eye can reach, and imperceptibly mingles with the neighbouring hills. Taken as a whole, it is a very beautiful bay, and lovely are the isles scattered about it. Every traveller is enthusiastic about the appearance of these little gems, which rise verdant from the water’s edge to the very summit; or rendered more bright by a narrow beach of shining yellow sand that skirts the shores.

The first two are called Talang Talang, and on these are collected the turtles’ eggs. From the larger a broad sandy flat extends to the southward, and on this, during the prevalence of the south-west monsoon the turtles lay their eggs. There are men on the look-out near, and as soon as the animals have dug holes, deposited the eggs, and carefully covered them over, the watchers stick little flags in the sand to mark the spots. In the morning they open them out and procure immense supplies of these eggs, which are exported to all the neighbouring countries. Though the turtles do occasionally frequent the surrounding isles, it is only here that they are plentiful.

The Malays are eager in the search, yet fortunately very many nests escape their rapacity. But the dangers to the turtle do not end here: when the little things burst up from the sand, they find enemies in every direction. The voracious kites soaring above pounce on their defenceless prey, even the land crab seizes them and bears them away, and when the remainder escape to the water, hundreds of sharks and other voracious fish are there to devour them; it is astonishing that so many elude their enemies. A turtle’s egg tastes to me like a stale and fishy duck’s egg. The sandy beaches of these isles are always to the southward, as they are not exposed to the fierce blasts of the north-east monsoon. The next islets near the Santubong entrance of the Sarawak river, are Sampadien and the two Satangs. On all are at present extensive groves of cocoa-nut trees, which form a marked contrast to the neighbouring jungle.

It is very curious that the fish should frequent this bay so very irregularly. Some years the supplies are ample, at other seasons it scarcely pays to search for them. The dugong, called by the Malays duyong, is occasionally secured off the small islands in this bay; there is a famous fisherman in Sarawak, named Pa Sipi, who is expert in all accomplishments appertaining to his craft, and I have heard the natives say that when a duyong is seen, he used cautiously to approach it, and being always the foremost man, he hurled his fishing spear at it, and very shortly after, if he were obliged to let go his hold of the weapon, the animal would rise again to the surface. The fishing spear is called a sarampang, and is usually made with a treble-pronged iron point, fitted loosely into the end of the spear, and secured by a stout lashing of rattans to the wood. When the iron has entered into the animal, it comes loose from the shaft of the spear, which is then only held to it by the rattan rope, and it would be impossible for an animal thus encumbered to escape far. Pa Sipi brought us once a very fine duyong, which measured nearly eight feet in length, and its flesh tasted very much like coarse beef.

We moved along under easy sail, and anchored near the Muaratabas entrance of the Sarawak river. The land here is very bold, particularly Sipang and Po points.

We sent a boat up the Santubong as we passed the entrance, to give notice at the town of our arrival, and in the evening we landed for a walk in a deep nook to the westward of Point Po; here, just above the sandy beach, were the graves of several Englishmen, among others of Lieutenant Mathews, of H.M.S. _Iris_: a simple granite stone marked the spot; the wild pigs, however, had desecrated the graves and overturned the tablet; so the latter was subsequently removed to the church-yard in Sarawak. We amused ourselves about the edges of the forest in searching for a good watering-place. To me this evening was inexpressibly delightful, as I wandered about this quiet pretty spot, and thought how agreeable an introduction it was to Bornean life. After dark we waded to our boats, and the crews enlivened the evening by singing in chorus till we neared the ship. Twenty deep voices sounded well over this still and starlit sea. For the first time I saw some Lingga Dayaks to-day, and as they happened to be dressed as Malays, my first impression was that it would be difficult to distinguish between them.

About ten o’clock the following morning native war-boats commenced issuing from the Muaratabas, and sailing towards us. They were the Sarawak people come to welcome back their English rajah. There were twenty long light war prahus with tapering masts and lateen sails, ornamented with flags and streamers, and all the chiefs and crews were dressed in gala costume. The principal men came on board, and it was interesting to observe the warmth they showed to their adopted chief. Some of the Sarawak men were striking-looking, but the nobles from the capital were the most insignificant creatures I had ever seen; they were only remarkable for the gold lace with which their jackets were profusely ornamented, and that they were very gentlemanly, and more polished in manner than their provincial neighbours.

About one o’clock Sir James Brooke left the _Meander_ under a salute, and the manning of the yards; the latter has always a very pretty effect, and rather surprised our native visitors. When the firing was over, the blue jackets gave three hearty cheers, and swarmed down the rigging. Now was the turn of the war-boats, and they kept up a desultory fire for an hour.

The Muaratabas entrance of the Sarawak river is a very fine one, and has a depth of three fathoms and a half at the very lowest water at spring tides; the contrast of the banks is striking: to the right a high bold shore and pretty isolated hills; to the left a low flat plain with mountains showing in the distance.

We pulled up with the flood tide, our way being enlivened by races between the native prahus, but the frigate’s barge had no chance against them; near the entrance is a rock that marks the watering-place; it was here that Sir James made his first acquaintance with the Dayak pirates, who attacked a Malay prahu under the very guns of the _Royalist_.

With few exceptions the banks of the Sarawak river are uninteresting; for many miles nothing but swampy ground and low jungle of mangrove trees and nipa palms, with occasional glimpses of distant mountains. Near the town, however, it improves, the land becoming dry and bearing heavy jungle; between the mouth and the town there were only a few fishing huts, and not a sign of cultivation. Evening was closing in as we approached Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, and the sun set brilliantly behind the Matang range, gilding as it disappeared as wild and picturesque a scene as I had ever witnessed. Our barge led the way up the broad reach, and was followed by the twenty war prahus, and dozens of Dayak and other boats that had joined the procession:--not a decorous Lord Mayor’s pull on the river, but in the utmost confusion, amid gun-firing, gong-beating, racing, wild and frantic yells of delight, shouts of laughter and of anger, as one prahu ran into another in their eagerness to be in the foremost rank. As we rounded the last point we were surprised to find the whole town brilliantly illuminated, and as all the houses are built on the water’s edge, which reflected back the lights above, the effect was very fine. Crowds were assembled to witness our arrival, and yell, and answering yell, increased the confusion. Having described my first arrival at Sarawak, I will proceed to give a short account of its present position.

Sarawak, including its dependencies, extends from Cape Datu to Kidorong Point, a coast line of about three hundred miles, and presents every variety of surface, from the low fertile soil skirting the river’s banks to the lofty mountains which rise in every direction throughout the various districts.

It is one of the best watered countries in the world, possessing several rivers of the first class, as the Rejang, the Sarawak, and the Batang Lupar; and many of the second, as the Samarahan, the Sadong, the Seribas, the Kalaka, the Egan, a branch of the Rejang, and the Bintulu; rivers of the third class are also numerous, as the Lundu, the Mato, the Oya, and the Muka.

The last three, though small, are still very important, as they run through the great sago-producing districts, possessing forests of that palm, which are as yet perfectly unexplored, having only lately been ceded to Sarawak.

The finest river, however, is the Rejang, which has a deep entrance, not less than five fathoms at high water, and, when inside the bar, never carries less, for above one hundred and thirty miles. A geographical description of the country, however, is not necessary, as I have in previous chapters given an account of the principal districts, nearly all of which I visited in the course of my tours.

Sarawak possesses an immense extent of fertile soil, a very large amount being composed of alluvial deposit stretching for miles on either side of the banks of the Samarahan, the Sadong, the Batang Lupar, and nearly all the rivers before named.

Much of the soil is especially adapted for sugar cultivation, being of a similar quality to that on the banks of the Pontianak, which I have been informed by Dutch officers and planters has been found far superior for sugar cultivation to the best in Java. In fact, nothing but the want of labour has prevented the extensive cultivation of the cane in the Pontianak districts: Chinese could be introduced with facility, but these people have already given the Dutch so much trouble, as to render the Netherlands government very jealous of any increase in their numbers.

But before entering on the subject of products, I must briefly enumerate the various tribes speaking different languages who are now subject to Sarawak.

The Malays are scattered along the banks of almost every river and creek, but the largest number is assembled at the capital, Kuching.

The Chinese, of whom I shall treat hereafter, are principally found in Sarawak, though a few hundreds are now working gold on the Batang Lupar, and traders abound at every place where profit can be obtained.

The Indian races are represented by very few members.

The Land Dayaks occupy a portion of Lundu, with the entire interior of Sarawak, Samarahan, and Sadong.

The Sea Dayaks include the Sibuyaus, who are scattered through the various districts, and the inhabitants of the Batang Lupar, the Seribas, Kalaka, and the branch streams on the left-hand bank of the Rejang.

The Milanaus occupy the mouths of the Rejang, the Ova, the Muka, the Bintulu, and various lesser streams.

The tattooed races, as the Kanowits, Pakatans, Punans, and others, live towards the interior of the districts lying between the Rejang and the Bintulu, and border on the Kayans, who occupy the Balui country as the interior of the Bintulu and the Rejang is called.

All these groups of tribes speak separate languages, and each has also various dialects.

It is very difficult to obtain even an approximate estimate of the amount of population, but I will state it at the most moderate rate.

The home districts, as Lundu, Sarawak, Samarahan, Sadong, and Sibuynu, may be reckoned at 80,000 The Sea Dayak districts, including Batang Lupar, Seribas, Kalaka, and those on the left bank of the Rejang, at 120,000 The districts lying between Rejang Mouth and Bintulu 40,000 ------- Total 240,000

In stating these numbers I am convinced that I am very much underrating them, as the more inquiries we make the thicker appears the population of the Sea Dayak districts.

The capital of Sarawak is Kuching, and, considering the circumstances of the country, the rise of this free port has been rapid. When Sir James Brooke first reached the spot, there were few inhabitants except the Malay rajahs and their followers, who subsequently for the most part removed to Brunei, the residence of the sultan. I saw Kuching in the year 1848, when it was but a small place, with few Chinese or Kling shops, and perhaps not over 6,000 Malay inhabitants; there was little trade, the native prahus were small, and I saw some few of them. The jungle surrounded the town and hemmed in the houses, and the Chinese gardeners had scarcely made an impression on the place. As confidence was inspired, so the town increased, and now, including the outlying parishes, its population numbers not less than 15,000.

The commerce of the place has kept pace with it, and from a rare schooner finding its way over to return with a paltry cargo, the trade has risen till an examination of the books convinced me that it was in 1860 above 250,000_l._ of exports and imports.

The articles constituting the exports are for the most part the produce of the jungle; the principal exception is sago, which is imported from the districts to the east of Cape Sirik, to be manufactured at Kuching into the sago-pearl and flour of commerce. The trade in this article has for many years been injured by the constant disturbances, ending in a state of chronic civil war, which desolated the producing districts. Now, however, that they have been ceded to Sarawak, and a firm government established, a great development should take place in this branch of trade.

An article which might become of great value is cotton: it is cultivated among many of the tribes residing within the Sarawak territories, particularly by the Dayaks of Seribas and Sakarang, who manufacture from it a durable cloth. The Cotton Supply Association is sending out some Egyptian seed, which, if it arrive in good condition, may tend to increase the produce. I am convinced, however, that no cultivation will have great success in Borneo which does not at first depend on imported labour, and as China is near, the supply could be easily and regularly obtained.

The amount of rice produced will also greatly depend on imported labour; at present the natives but rarely export any, and during some seasons scarcely produce sufficient for the consumption of the people. There is one thing to be observed, however, that as the country is becoming year by year more settled, the inhabitants in the same ratio give greater attention to acquiring wealth. The Sea Dayaks are very acquisitive, and would soon imitate the Chinese methods of cultivation. I have elsewhere remarked that the agriculture to the north of the capital is far superior to anything found in Sarawak or its neighbourhood, and this has most probably arisen from the large number of Chinese who formerly inhabited that country.

The use of the plough, the harrow, or the buffalo in cultivation is, except by report, entirely unknown in Sarawak; the natives will, I believe, be much surprised at the results produced by a good English plough, which is about to be tried on some fields of sugar-cane in the neighbourhood of Kuching, and it may do much good by showing them the methods employed by other nations. At present the Malays and Dayaks use no other instruments than a long chopper, an axe, and a pointed stick.

The soil and the varied heights on the hill-sides, would render Sarawak a fine country for coffee; which grows freely, and so do pepper, tapioca, arrowroot, and almost every product cultivated in the neighbouring islands; but these things are not yet grown in sufficient quantities to render them worth mentioning as articles of export. Of the jungle produce I may name the principal: they are fine timber of many varieties, gutta-percha, india-rubber, wax, and rattans, and the last are to be obtained in the very greatest abundance and of the best quality in the districts lately ceded by the sultan to the government of Sarawak.

Sarawak has a very great advantage over many countries, having water communication from the far interior, down to her coasts, and inner channels communicating with many of the outlying districts.

The mineral products known to exist in sufficient quantities to be worth working are not numerous; they are coal, antimony, and gold. Coal seams have long been known to exist, but in situations that necessitated a considerable outlay; within the last few months, however, coal has been discovered close to the water’s edge in the districts lately ceded, but I have not yet heard of the result of the examinations which have just been made. Antimony of the best quality can be procured in sufficient quantities to supply any demand, and a new mine has been secured to the Sarawak government by the cession of Bintulu.

Gold is only worked by the Chinese, who wash the surface earth in a way which I will afterwards describe. No deep sinkings have been attempted, nor has quartz yet been discovered in large quantities, and it is not likely to be while nine-tenths of the country are still clothed with forest.

Indications of many minerals exist, but until found in greater quantities they are scarcely worth referring to, except to encourage a careful examination of the mountain and hilly districts. Sufficient silver has however been found to render it probable that a mine exists not far from the Bidi antimony works. The Dutch beyond the border are said to be working a copper mine to great profit; and in Sarawak indications of that mineral, as well as of lead, have been several times discovered: but no great importance can be attached to them at present. Manganese and arsenic have been found in considerable quantities, but they are not yet worked.

The most remarkable thing connected with Sarawak is the change which has come over the aborigines; from all the accounts I could gather they were twenty-five years ago in a much more miserable condition than the Muruts and Bisayas in the neighbourhood of the capital. The country was in a state of complete anarchy, and Malays were fighting against Malays and Dayaks against Dayaks. Even before the civil war broke out the condition of the latter was miserable in the extreme; they were exposed to every exaction, their children were taken from them, their villages attacked and often sacked by the Seribas and Sakarang, and hunger approaching to famine added to their troubles.

Even when Sir James Brooke succeeded to the government and peace was restored, it took years to eradicate the belief, founded on long established practice, that the Dayaks were persons to be plundered by every means. When it could not be done openly, it was carried on by a system of forced trade. Sir James Brooke’s attention was constantly directed to this subject, and he found that as long as the Malay chiefs were paid their salaries by receiving half the rice-tax, some of them had an excuse for continuing the old practice. I have mentioned the tours of inspection undertaken under his direction by his nephew, Captain Brooke; shortly after these were concluded a new system was introduced, and the chiefs had their salaries paid to them in money. Since which time few complaints have been made by the Dayaks.

As far as material comfort adds to the happiness of man, the Dayaks have reason to be thankful: whatever they earn, they enjoy; a tax of four shillings on every family is the amount levied on them by government: after that is paid they are free from every exaction. Not only have they the produce of their industry, but the wealth derived from their forests of fruit-trees, a market for which can always be found among the Chinese and Malays. Many of the caves likewise produce the edible bird’s nest, which is another source of profit.

The Malays, however, have benefited equally with the Dayaks by the change of system. Formerly the chiefs employed a crowd of relations and followers to collect their taxes and to oppress the aborigines; and, as at Brunei now, if the master asked for a bushel of rice, the man demanded two more for himself. The system had a debasing influence on all; no doubt many suffered a little by the change, but as a rule all these men turned to legitimate trade, as soon as they found that to oppress the Dayaks entailed fines and punishments.

The impetus given was great, trading prahus were built, and voyages undertaken which their fathers had not thought of. Singapore, Java, the Malay Peninsula, and even a portion of Sumatra were visited. This brought wealth and increased activity, which was shown in the improved dwellings, the larger prahus, the gayer dresses, and the amount of gold ornaments that became common among their women.

There is one thing I must particularly mention, the remarkable honesty shown by these traders in all their intercourse with Europeans. An Englishman, who greatly facilitated their commercial transactions by loans of money at a rate of interest which in the East was considered remarkably moderate, told me that, in all his experience, he had only found one Malay who attempted to cheat him. He never demanded receipts, but simply made an entry in his book, and his loans with that one exception were all repaid him.

He told me a story of a Malay trader that singularly illustrates their character. The man borrowed a small sum and went on a voyage; in a month he returned, stating he had lost both prahu and cargo, and asked to be entrusted with double the amount of his former debt; it was given him. Again he returned, having been wrecked close to the mouth of the river. He came to this Englishman and clearly explained his misfortune, but added--“You know I am an honest man, disasters cannot always happen to me, lend me sufficient to go on another voyage, and I will repay all I owe you.” My informant said he hesitated, but at last lent him the whole amount demanded. The trader was away three months, and his smiling face, when he came back to his creditor, showed he had been successful; he paid off the principal portion of the debt, and afterwards cleared off the remainder, and was, when I heard the story, one of the most flourishing traders in Sarawak. I thought the anecdote was honourable to both, and illustrates the kindly feeling that exists in that country between the European and native.

This confidence, however, was the growth of some years, and the result of the system of government which I will now describe. In treating of the capital, I have shown the practice established there. In all the former dependencies of Brunei there were local chiefs who administered the internal affairs of their own districts. In Sarawak there were originally three, and that number Sir James Brooke continued in their employment, and permitted and encouraged them to take part in everything connected with the government of the country, obtaining their consent to the imposition of any new tax or change in the system of levying the old, consulting them on all occasions and allowing their local knowledge to guide him in those things with which they were necessarily better acquainted than he could possibly be.

It was not to be expected that his teaching and influence should suddenly change these men, accustomed to almost uncontrolled sway, into just and beneficent rulers, and he failed in moulding the datu patiñggi, the principal chief. As long as Sir James Brooke was himself present in Sarawak, he could keep him tolerably straight; but no amount of liberality could prevent him oppressing the Dayaks on every possible occasion. His rapacity increasing, he took bribes in his administration of justice, and it was at last found necessary to remove him. The third chief behaved much better, and the second, patiñggi Ali, was killed during one of Captain Keppel’s expeditions.

The last named left many sons, two of whom would have adorned any situation in life; the eldest, the late bandhar of Sarawak, was a kind, just, and good man, respected in his public capacity, and beloved in all social intercourse: his only fault was, a certain want of decision,

## partly caused by a rapid consumption that carried him off about two

years since. His next brother succeeded him, and appears to have all his brother’s good qualities, with remarkable firmness of character. In fact, a generation is springing up, with new ideas and more enlarged views, who appear to appreciate the working of their present government, and have a pride in being connected with it.

By associating these men in the administration, and thus educating them in political life, and by setting the example of a great equality in social intercourse, Sir James Brooke laid the foundation of a government which stood a shock that many of his best friends expected would prove fatal. I mean the Chinese insurrection. None of the predicted results have followed. Trade and revenue have both actually increased, and a much better system of management has been introduced.

The example set in the capital is followed in all the dependent districts, and the local rulers are always associated with the European in the government. The effect has been to prevent any jealousy arising; and the contempt of all natives, which appears a part of our creed in many portions of our empire, is not felt in Sarawak. Nothing appears more striking to those who have resided long in Sarawak than the extraordinary change which appears to have been effected in the character of the people, and also in that of individuals. There is no doubt that Sir James Brooke was working in soil naturally good, or these results could not have taken place, but yet when we know the previous history of men, how lawless and savage they were, and yet find they have conducted themselves in an exemplary manner for twenty years, the whole circumstances appear surprising.

I will tell an anecdote of one of the very oldest of the chiefs, to show the apparently stubborn materials which had to be moulded. The man relating the story himself, said that about thirty-five years ago he was cruising near Datu Point when he observed a small trading boat passing out at sea. He immediately gave chase, and when near her noticed the crew were all armed, and preparing to defend themselves, so his own followers advised him to sheer off, but he made them push alongside, and springing on board the trading prahu with a drawn kris so effectually alarmed the hostile crew that they all ran below. There were six of them, but he killed them all, and added, one only did he pity, as in their distress five called on their mothers, but one only begged mercy of God. And yet that man has behaved well for the last twenty-five years, and much better, in my opinion, than many others of far greater pretensions. It never appears to strike him that he had committed a bloodthirsty and wicked action, perhaps he considered that to conceal his piratical act any means were justifiable; but however that may be, he has completely changed his conduct, has been faithful under great temptations, and has always proved himself a brave and trustworthy man since a regular government has been established in Sarawak.

Few would have undertaken the responsibility of ruling a country with such materials, but to render the task easier, there were some excellent men to leven the multitude, and a retired pirate is generally a good servant, if you can turn the energies that led him to a roving life into a legitimate channel.

It is obvious, however, that where a government depends for its stability on the individual character of its officers, and where a change in the system may be introduced by the head of the government not following in the footsteps of his predecessors, men will not risk their capital in the development of the country.

I have watched the gradual development of Sarawak with the greatest interest; I have seen districts once devoted to anarchy restored to prosperity and peace by the simple support of the orderly part of the population by a government acting with justice, and it is not surprising that all its neighbours appeal to it, when their own countrymen are seen to exercise so great an influence in its councils.

The experiment so happily begun might be carried on with great results, had the Sarawak government more material force to back it. At present nine-tenths of the country are forest; I believe the largest portion of that may be cultivated with great success, but population is wanting. There is but one people who can develope the islands of the Eastern Archipelago, and they are the Chinese.

They are a most industrious and saving nation, and yet liberal in their households, and free in their personal expenses. They are the only people to support an European government, as they are the only Asiatics who will pay a good revenue. In Sarawak there are not above 3,000 Chinese, and yet they pay in indirect taxes more than the quarter of a million of Malays and Dayaks pay altogether. There is room within the Sarawak territories for half a million of Chinese cultivators, without in any way inconveniencing the other inhabitants; and these Chinese could pay without feeling the pressure 2_l._ a head in indirect taxes: as those levied on opium, spirits, tobacco, and other articles.

There must be soundness in the system pursued in Sarawak, or it could not have stood alone for so many years, exposed as it has been to successive storms. A similar, or a modified system, supported by our national power, would produce great results. No one can judge of the consuming power of the Chinese abroad, by the Chinese in their own country. Abroad he clothes himself in English cloth, he uses English iron; he sometimes takes to our crockery; he when well off drinks our beer, and is especially partial to our biscuits. He does nothing in a niggardly spirit, but, as I have said, is liberal in his household.

I believe if England were to try the experiment of a Chinese colony, where they had room to devote themselves to agriculture, to mining, and to commerce, the effects would be as great in proportion as those displayed in our Australian colonies. The Indian Isles are not far distant from China, and emigrants from them are always ready to leave on the slightest temptation.

I have lived so many years in the Archipelago that I hope my information may be found correct. I certainly expect much from the future of Borneo, if the present experiment should be aided or adopted, as it possesses the elements of wealth and prosperity, and can obtain what is essential to success, a numerous and industrious population.

The Chinese have no difficulty in amalgamating with the native inhabitants, and to a certain extent can always obtain wives, as Borneo, like England, appears to possess a redundant female population. The men are, of course, exposed to many more dangers than the women, and these latter are so fond of their own homes that they seldom remove far from their parents. But now there appears to be no difficulty in procuring female emigrants, and if the present rebellion continue to desolate China we might remove all the inhabitants of a village together. I have heard men say that they have seen as much misery in some of the provinces of that vast empire as they saw in Ireland during the famine, and when that is the case, there will be no difficulty in inducing these people to emigrate. A calculation has been made that, if Borneo were well cultivated, it would suffice for the support of a hundred millions of Chinese.

The administration of justice is a subject of vital importance in all countries, but especially so in an Asiatic and a mixed population. The simple forms adopted in Sarawak are admirably suited to the country, and the care displayed in inquiries has won the confidence of the people. There are three courts established in Sarawak: a general court, a police court, and a native religious court. The last has charge of all cases in which a reference is required to the laws of the Koran, as in marriages and divorces; an appeal lies, however, in certain cases to the general court. Ten years ago the native judges gave no satisfaction to the people and inspired no confidence, as it was known the principal chief took bribes, but since his removal, it is rare indeed to hear of a decision giving dissatisfaction, as both the late bandhar and his brother, the present bandhar, really take a pride in their court, and look into the cases. They also regularly attend the general court, and have thus been educated by the example set by the English magistrates of the most patient investigation. The general court takes cognizance of all the principal cases both civil and criminal, and in serious trials there is a kind of jury of the principal English and native inhabitants.

Cheap, and above all, speedy justice is what is required in the East, where they never can understand our wearisome forms. It reminds me of the Malay tried for murder in one of our English courts; he was asked the question, Guilty or Not guilty, and answered immediately, Guilty. He was advised to withdraw it and plead not guilty, but he steadily refused, saying, “Why should I plead not guilty, when I know I committed the murder; when you all know that as well as I, and mean to hang me, so don’t make a long fuss about it.” They very often confess even the most heinous crimes. The police court has cognizance of the same cases as would come before similar courts elsewhere, with a little mixture of the county court.

The Malays, except the followers of the Brunei nobles, are found on the whole to be very truthful, faithful to their relatives, and devotedly attached to their children. Remarkably free from crimes, and when they commit them it is generally from jealousy. Brave when well led, they inspire confidence in their commanders; highly sensitive to dishonour, and tenacious as to the conduct of their countrymen towards them, and remarkably polite in their manners, they render agreeable all intercourse with them. Malays are generally accused of great idleness; in one sense they deserve it; they do not like continuous work, but they do enough to support themselves and families in comfort, and real poverty is unknown among them. No relative is abandoned because he is poor, or because an injury or an illness may have incapacitated him for work. I like the Malays, although I must allow that I became weary of having only them with whom to associate.

Sarawak appears to the natives of the western coast of Borneo what an oasis must be to the wandering Arab, and it is often visited by the people of the neighbouring countries to examine as a sort of curiosity. A party of Bugau Dayaks from the upper Kapuas once arrived in Kuching after fifteen days’ journey, merely to discover whether or not it were true that the Dayaks of Sarawak were living in comfort; but a more curious incident was the arrival of a chief from the Natunas to lay his case before the Sarawak government. A near relative of the Sultan of Linggin had yearly visited that group, which was subject to his authority, under the pretence of collecting taxes, but instead of confining himself to that, commenced a system of gross extortion. The natives submitted patiently, but not content with that, he seized their young girls, and when his passions were satisfied, sent them again ashore, and forbad them to marry, under the pretence that they must consider themselves in future as his concubines.

At last he proceeded so far as, during a chiefs absence, to take up his residence in his house and to seize on his wife and family. On the orang kaya’s return, he was received with shots from his own batteries. His wife, evading the watch kept on her, rejoined him; but after vainly endeavouring to recover the rest of his family, he brought his complaints to Sarawak. As the Sultan of Linggin was under the suzerainty of the Dutch, it was impossible to interfere actively in their defence; but as there was no doubt of the truth of these representations, as they merely confirmed the accounts which had been previously received from the officers of one of our vessels which had surveyed that group, the whole case was laid before the Dutch authorities at Rhio, with an apology for the apparent interference in their affairs; but although naturally disposed to think that there was much exaggeration in the native accounts, they acted promptly, sent a vessel of war to the Natunas, whose captain fully confirmed the report forwarded, and giving the young noble an order to restore all his plunder, and come on board within an hour, they set sail with him to one of the fortresses to the eastward, where he remained several years. This energetic action had a most beneficial effect, and, although many years have passed since, I have not heard of any complaints from the inhabitants of that very lovely group.

The relatives of the Sultan of Linggin acted in the same way as the Bornean nobles, who really appear to be convinced that they have a right to treat the poorer natives as they please, and do not understand any other method, but Makota’s cruel nature delighted in it for its sake. He used to say, “I know that the system of government pursued in Sarawak is the right system, and that in the end we should obtain much more from them by treating them kindly; but I have been accustomed all my life to oppress them, and it affords me unmixed satisfaction to get even their cooking-pots from them;” and he chuckled over the remembrance.

As the Malays increase in wealth, they are gradually taking more to the fashion of making pilgrimages to Mecca, though the sufferings they undergo in the crowded ships are almost equal to those endured in the middle passage. Some of the Arab ships are so crammed, that each pilgrim is only allowed sufficient space for a small mat on the deck, and there he remains during the whole voyage, except when he cooks his meals. One year, of the twelve who started from Sarawak on the pilgrimage, but five returned, though now it is not so fatal, as our authorities in the east are preventing the over-crowding of those vessels which leave our ports.

They have a custom in Sarawak which is rather curious: to insure good hair to their girls, they throw gold dust on it, and then send the child out among the crowd, who with scissors endeavour to snip out the precious metal.

It has often been noticed that the Malay language is very concise, and as a proof, I have heard the following anecdote related. I have not yet seen it in print, though it may be. An English judge was condemning a man to death for a barbarous murder, and earnestly dwelling on the dreadful nature of the crime, he lengthened his discourse to twenty minutes. Then turning to the court interpreter he told him to translate what he had said into Malay. The official looked sternly at the prisoner, and addressed him thus: “The judge says you are a very wicked man; you have committed a great crime, therefore you must be hung. Sudah (I have done),” and then quietly retired to his place, to the astonishment of the judge, who could not comprehend how his learned and affecting discourse had been so briefly translated; he could only ejaculate, “Certainly the Malay is the most epigrammatic language.”

As I am concluding this chapter with miscellaneous remarks, I will tell a short anecdote told me by a Spaniard of a Balignini pirate. After the expedition from Manilla, in 1848, had captured the islands of Tonquil and Balignini, they removed most of the prisoners to an island to the north; among others, there was the wife and children of a well known buccaneer, who had been absent on a cruise during the attack, and returning home, found his house burnt and his family gone. He immediately went to Samboañgan and surrendered to the authorities, saying he was tired of the wandering life he had led, and was anxious to live as a quiet agriculturist with his wife. The governor trusting his story, sent him to the north, where he joined his family, and set to work with great energy cultivating the soil; the authorities kept a strict watch over him, knowing his enterprising character, but just before the rice harvest was ready to be gathered, they became less vigilant, as they thought no one would abandon the result of a year’s labour; but at dead of night, with a few companions to whom he had imparted his secret, he fled with his family to the shore, where, surprising a boat, he pulled off to his old haunts and reached them in safety.

I have already treated of the Land and Sea Dayaks, and will not dwell further on the subject, but give a short account of the Chinese on the North-west coast of Borneo.

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