Part 1
# Bog-trotting for orchids ### By Niles, Grace Greylock
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Bog-trotting for orchids
“_I enter a swamp as a sacred place._”—Thoreau
BOG-TROTTING _FOR_ ORCHIDS
_By_ GRACE GREYLOCK NILES
[Illustration]
_With Illustrations from Nature_
G. P. Putnam’s Sons _New York and London_ The Knickerbocker Press _1904_
COPYRIGHT, 1904 BY GRACE GREYLOCK NILES
Published, April, 1904
The Knickerbocker Press, New York
TO GENEVIEVE FARNELL IN GRATEFUL APPRECIATION OF HER AID AND ENCOURAGEMENT
[Illustration: =The Pink Moccasin-Flower.= (_Cypripedium acaule._)
“_One true-born blossom, native to our skies,_ _We dare not claim as kin,_ _Nor frankly seek, for all that in it lies,_ _The Indian’s moccasin._”
ELAINE GOODALE.]
Preface
During many seasons spent in the Hoosac Valley, it has been a source of great pleasure to me to trace mountain streams through moss-grown ravines to their beginnings, and to explore the almost inaccessible recesses of the sphagnous boglands. I have found it a delight to study the orchids, ferns, and various flowers sheltered in their homes, far removed from the roadside. I seldom follow any well-worn forest paths, for I have observed that the rarer plants do not dwell where the foot of man or the grazing herds have wandered. So it happens that the walks described in these pages lead mostly across lots, over hills and mountains, and through swamps.
The Hoosac Valley lies in the heart of the irregular Taconic Mountains, and extends over the southwestern part of Bennington County, Vermont, and the northwestern part of Berkshire County, Massachusetts. This region has a soil peculiarly adapted to the origin and growth of orchids. Here along the numerous streams and in the little vales are many unfathomable peat and marl beds which are veritable orchid gardens. The valley seems to be the common ground where rare plants from the North and South, as well as the migrating species from the East and West, meet and overlap each other.
Many people are accustomed to think of the orchid as a tropical flower which grows in our country only in cultivation and under highly artificial conditions. It is, however, true that many of the most attractive species of this beautiful group are endemic to most parts of the United States. There are to-day, according to conservative reports, from twenty-seven to thirty genera and from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and sixty species of native orchids found in North America, north of Mexico. Most of these are terrestrial or earth-loving. There are eleven epiphytes, all of which are found only in the Southern States. The range of the North American orchids extends wherever sunshine and moisture prevail, nearly as far north as the Arctic Circle. Four Cypripediums grow between latitudes 54° and 64°, and from fifteen to eighteen species of the Orchid Family are natives of Alaska.
The North Atlantic region, covering northeastern United States and Canada, produces seventy-one species of Orchidaceæ; of these from forty-eight to fifty-six are reported for New England, and from forty to forty-two are found in the Hoosac Valley. Of the seventy-one North Atlantic orchids only fifteen or sixteen have not been found within Vermont. The most widely-known genus—_Cypripedium_, or Moccasin-Flower—is represented by thirteen species on the North American continent. This includes the single Mexican species. Six of this number have been collected in Connecticut, and five grow in the Hoosac Valley.
The excursions which I have recorded in this book were made particularly in search of orchids; but I have collected and observed all other flowers of interest which grow in the region which I have traversed, for the purpose of showing the natural environments of orchids, and introducing their near neighbors of swamp, forest, and rocky pasture-land.
G. G. N.
WILLIAMSTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS.
Contents
CHAPTER PAGE
_First Season_
I. OFF TO THE HILLS OF BERKSHIRE AND BENNINGTON 3
II. BALL BROOK AND THE BOGS OF ETCHOWOG 15
III. THE HAUNTS OF THE RAM’S-HEAD MOCCASIN-FLOWERS 39
IV. THE STOLEN MOCCASINS 44
V. THE QUEEN OF THE INDIAN MOCCASIN-FLOWERS 55
VI. HAIL STORMS AT ETCHOWOG 72
VII. SWEET POGONIAS AND LIMODORUMS 83
VIII. A COLONY OF RAM’S-HEADS IN WITCH HOLLOW 95
IX. OVER THE HUCKLEBERRY PLAINS 115
_Second Season_
X. WESTVILLE SWAMPS AND MOUNT CARMEL, CONNECTICUT 125
XI. MAY SHOWERS AND WHITE MOCCASIN-FLOWERS 137
XII. SAUCY JAYS AND POLYPORES 149
_Third Season_
XIII. THE SWAMPS AND HILLS OF MOSHOLU AND LOWERRE, NEW YORK 157
XIV. THE SWAMP OF ORACLES—HOOSAC VALLEY 167
XV. WHITE OAKS AND GREGOR ROCKS 183
XVI. ALPINE BLOSSOMS OF THE DOME 201
XVII. THE CASCADE AND BELLOWS-PIPE, NOTCH VALLEY, BERKSHIRE COUNTY, MASSACHUSETTS 212
XVIII. THE NATURAL BRIDGE OF MAYUNSOOK VALLEY, NORTHERN BERKSHIRE 224
XIX. ORANGE MOUNTAINS, AND SALT MEADOWS, NEW JERSEY 231
APPENDIX—NEW ENGLAND ORCHIDS 239
INDEX 285
[Illustration]
Illustrations
The photographs in this list marked thus * were taken by Miss Katherine Lewers, the others by the author. The coloring is the work of the author. Of the fifteen genera of _Orchidaceæ_ in New England, all save _Listera_, _Tipularia_, and _Aplectrum_ are represented in these illustrations.
PAGE
The Pink Moccasin-Flower (_Cypripedium acaule_)* _Frontispiece_ _Colored_
The Large Yellow Moccasin-Flower (_Cypripedium hirsutum_)* 4 _Colored_
The Botanizing Can, or Vasculum, Showing the White-Petaled Lady’s Slipper and Maiden-Hair Fern* 8
Mount Greylock’s Brotherhood—the Berkshire Highlands, from Mount Œta, Bennington County, Vermont, Showing the College Town of Williamstown in the Valley* 10
The Western Gateway of Hoosac Mountain, the Entrance to Hoosac Tunnel, North Adams, Massachusetts 14 Source of photograph unknown.
Ball Brook, in the Swamp of Oracles, Pownal, Vermont* 18
The Showy Lady’s Slipper—the Queen of the Indian Moccasin-Flowers (_Cypripedium reginæ_)* 24 _Colored_
The Fleur-de-Lis (_Iris versicolor_)* 28
The Fountain of Arethusa, near the Bogs of Etchowog, Pownal, Vermont 30
Round-Leaved Sundew (_Drosera rotundifolia_) 32
The Carnivorous Plants, commonly called Pitcher Plants, and Dumb Watches (_Sarracenia purpurea_) 34
The Bogs of Etchowog, Showing the Dome in the Distance, Pownal, Vermont* 36
The Ram’s-Head Lady’s Slipper (_Cypripedium arietinum_) 42
The Pink Moccasin-Flower (_Cypripedium acaule_)* 48 This is the only two-leaved _Cypripedium_ found in the Atlantic region. _Colored_
The Tall White Northern Orchis (_Habenaria dilatata_), near Arethusa’s Spring, Bogs of Etchowog, Pownal, Vermont 52 _Colored_
The Showy Orchis (_Orchis spectabilis_) 56 The first orchid of the spring, found near the rocky borders of the Thompson Brook, East Pownal, Vermont. _Colored_
The Small Yellow Fragrant Moccasin-Flower (_Cypripedium parviflorum_)* 60 _Colored_
The Small White Moccasin-Flower (_Cypripedium candidum_) 62 _Colored_
The Queen of the Indian Moccasin-Flowers (_Cypripedium reginæ_), from the Bogs of Etchowog, Pownal, Vermont 68
The Small Purple-Fringed Orchis (_Habenaria psycodes_) 72
The Showy Lady’s Slipper (_Cypripedium reginæ_)* 78 _Colored_
The Northern Gap, Showing the Taconic Mountains of Bennington County, from Mount Œta, Vermont. The Bennington Battle Monument towers to the left in the Distance* 86
The Rose Pogonia (_Pogonia ophioglossoides_) 88 _Colored_
The Thompson Brook, East Pownal, Vermont 90
The Grass Pink (_Limodorum tuberosum_) 92 This is a strange, beautiful orchid with a straight seed-pod (ovary). _Colored_
The Perry Elm, Marking the Site of Fort Massachusetts, on the Harrison’s Flats, North Adams, Massachusetts, Showing Saddleback Mountain in the Distance 96
The Small Round-Leaved Orchis (_Habenaria Hookeriana_)* 100 _Colored_
The Showy Orchis (_Orchis spectabilis_)* 104 Showing the plant nearly natural size. _Colored_
The Large Purple-Fringed Orchis (_Habenaria grandiflora_) 110 From lithograph in Meehan’s _Native Flowers and Ferns of the United States_, 1: 1878. By permission. _Colored_
The Blackberry Blossoms from Mount Œta, Pownal, Vermont* 112
The Yellow Clintonia (_Clintonia borealis_), Rattlesnake Brook Swamp, Mount Œta, Pownal, Vermont 116
“White, innocent twigs of apple”* 126
The Woodman’s Road through Rattlesnake Swamp, Mount Œta, Pownal, Vermont 134
The Beautiful Arethusa (_Arethusa bulbosa_) 144 _Colored_
The Rattlesnake Plantain (_Peramium_), a Group of Three Species Collected on Rattlesnake Ledge, Mount Œta, Pownal, Vermont 150
The Snowy Dogwood Blossoms, from the Hills of Mosholu, New York* 158
1. Indian Pipes (_Monotropa uniflora_); 2. Pine-Sap (_Monotropa Hypopitys_) 164
The Snow-Plant of the Sierra Nevada Mountains (_Sarcodes sanguinea_)* 166
Motherless Baby Whippoorwills* 176
A Colony of the Small Yellow Fragrant Moccasin-Flower (_Cypripedium parviflorum_) in the Glen of Comus, District Fourteen, Pownal, Vermont* 178 _Colored_
The Mountain Laurel (_Kalmia latifolia_) 184
The Gregor Rocks, Hoosac Valley, from Pownal Centre Road, Vermont* 188
The Pot-Hole of Wash-Tub Brook, Pownal, Vermont, Showing the Stream Whirling through its Basin 190
An Ancient Pot-Hole, Showing an Erstwhile Revolving Stone, Located on the Granite Ridge, near the Wolf’s Den, Bronx Park, New York City* 194
The Bluebells of New England (_Campanula rotundifolia_)* 196
Three Rare Ferns from Gregor Rocks and Wash-Tub Brook Region, Pownal, Vermont: 1. Rue-in-the-Wall Spleenwort (_Asplenium Ruta-muraria_); 2. Purple-Stemmed Cliff-Brake (_Pellæa atropurpurea_); 3. Walking Fern (_Camptosorus rhizophyllus_)* 198
The Rocking Boulder, Located on the Granite Ridge near the Bear’s Den, in the Zoölogical Garden, Bronx Park, New York City 200 A pressure of fifty pounds causes this boulder to move about two inches. From photograph by George Stonebridge.
The Red Wood Lily (_Lilium Philadelphicum_) 210
The Cascade of Notch Brook, at the Base of Mount Greylock’s Brotherhood, North Adams, Massachusetts 212
Notch Valley and the Bellows-Pipe, North Adams, Massachusetts. Mount Greylock towers up on the right, and the Ragged Mountains on the left hand 218
The Marble Arch of the Natural Bridge, North Adams, Massachusetts 228
The Star-Blossoms of the Grass of Parnassus (_Parnassia Caroliniana_), and the Ladies’ Tresses 234
The Hoosac River, Pownal, Vermont* 238
The Fragrant White Moccasin-Flower (_Cypripedium Montanum_) 242 _Colored_
The Showy Moccasin-Flower (_Cypripedium reginæ_)* 244 This is the most gorgeous _Cypripedium_ in the world, and without doubt one of the most ancient types of the genus. _Colored_
The Pink Moccasin-Flower—the Stemless Lady’s Slipper (_Cypripedium acaule_)* 246 Showing the structure of the pendulous and bi-lobed labellum, and the processes of the sepals and petals. _Colored_
The Showy Orchis (_Orchis spectabilis_)* 248 The first orchid of the season, showing the hooded fold above the orifice of the spur, and the processes of the flowers on the bracted scape. _Colored_
A Group of Three Species of Genus Habenaria: 1. The Tall Northern Green Orchis (_Habenaria hyperborea_); 2. The Tall Northern White Orchis (_Habenaria dilatata_); 3. The Large Round-Leaved Orchis (_Habenaria orbiculata_)* 250 _Colored_
The Spikes of Habenaria (_Habenaria Andrewseii_ and _Habenaria psycodes_) 252
The Small Bog Orchis (_Habenaria clavellata_) 254
Andrews’ Rose-Purple Orchis (_Habenaria Andrewseii_) 258
The Beautiful Arethusa (_Arethusa bulbosa_) 262 Showing the structural parts of the flower, the single leaf, and bulbous root. _Colored_
The Hooded Ladies’ Tresses (_Gyrostachys Romanzoffiana_) 264
The Nodding Ladies’ Tresses (_Gyrostachys cernua_) 266
The Slender Ladies’ Tresses (_Gyrostachys gracilis_) 268
The Haunts of the Rattlesnake Plantain (_Peramium_) amid the Pines and Spruces of the Domelet, Pownal, Vermont 270
The Green Adder’s-Mouth (_Achroanthes unifolia_) 272
The Large Twayblade (_Leptorchis liliifolia_) 274
Northern Calypso (_Calypso bulbosa_) 276 From lithograph in Meehan’s _Native Flowers and Ferns of the United States_, 1: 1878. By permission. _Colored_
The Coral-Root (_Corallorhiza_) 280
The Grass Pink (_Limodorum tuberosum_) 282 A beautiful grassy-leaved orchid found in company with the dainty Rose Pogonia, and frequently with the rarer Arethusa in wild cranberry marshes. _Colored_
Epiphytes, or Air Plants. A Corner in the Orchid House of the Botanical Gardens of New York City* 284
FIRST SEASON
I
Off to the Hills of Berkshire and Bennington
It is not the walking merely, it is keeping yourself in tune for a walk, in the spiritual and bodily condition in which you can find entertainment and exhilaration in so simple and natural a pastime.—BURROUGHS, _Pepacton_.
All winter I had been promising myself the pleasure of watching the flowers unfold in the Bogs of Etchowog. On May 25th I reached the old farm on Mount Œta, having departed from New York on May 14th, fully equipped as a bog-trotter, with hunting-boots, rubber gloves, short skirts and vasculum.
My route was through New Haven and Hartford, across the States of Connecticut and Massachusetts. On my way I stopped for a brief visit at the home of a friend in New Haven. In her garden, I found a corner of the Taconic woodlands awakening. Here, in line and on time, stood five modest Yellow Lady’s Slippers (_Cypripedium hirsutum_), members of the Orchid Family; while along the same border clusters of the Showy Lady’s Slipper (_Cypripedium reginæ_) were pushing their dewy-tipped beaks into light and sunshine. Although rather late in their blossoming, compared with the other sisters of this genus in New England, this species usually reaches its prime about June 20th.
On the east side of the garden towered an ambitious row of ferns, some twenty root clusters or more, including many rare species. Here was an especially queer little strap-like leaf, which one would scarcely call a fern unless one were a professed fern-hunter. It is the rare Walking Leaf (_Camptosorus rhizophyllus_), the scientific name meaning a bent heap, and the appearance of the plant indeed is suggestive of the name. The frond is from four to twelve inches long, springing from a heart-shaped base and reaching out a long, narrow runner, which readily roots at the end again, and thence takes a step onward, and so on, until three or four steps are taken, often in this way forming a beautiful carpet for the cold gray lime rocks, which it prefers in its native haunts.
The Walking Fern is shy in its habitat, seeking the most hidden crevices in ledges along our mountain sides. I have collected it in many dark ravines, as well as along dry, rocky ridges in the Hoosac Highlands. It takes kindly to cultivation for a season or two, and then dies out for want of its natural soil of limestone.
[Illustration: =The Large Yellow Moccasin-Flower.= (_Cypripedium hirsutum._)
This common _Cypripedium_ is closely allied with the Small Yellow Fragrant species—_Cypripedium parviflorum_—with which it grows in close comradeship, often intergrading. It is also nearly related with the European Yellow Cypripedium (_Cypripedium calceolus_), the first _Cypripedium_ described by Linnæus in 1740-1753.]
A short walk toward West Rock, New Haven, showed me how far advanced the season really was. Here were crowds of children playing in fields covered with violets and bluets, and farther down in the damp meadows were long, serpentine lines of gold, where the Marsh Marigolds (_Caltha palustris_), known commonly as Cowslips, were already fading. On the edges of the swamp, the Marsh Buttercups of the Crowfoot Family (_Ranunculaceæ_), were lifting their shallow yellow cups to catch the sunshine. We wandered on through a pretty, wild bit of young woodland until we reached the border of a murmuring stream, creeping onward through the vale and meadow, touching the blossoming orchards here and there, and freshening the sweet white violets on its brink.
North Adams, Massachusetts, was to be my next station. This city is about two hundred miles from New York, among the Hoosac Highlands. I almost expected to see reluctant snowdrifts still lingering in the fence corners and shaded pine glens of this part of “Beautiful Berkshire,” and I half hoped to find a few late clusters of the Trailing Arbutus (_Epigæa repens_) creeping through the cold, mossy ravines.
Upon my arrival in North Adams, I looked through the bogs under the brow of Hoosac Mountain near Aurora’s Lake, and I could perceive scarcely any difference in the progress of flowers or foliage here from that of the region from which I had just departed. Dogwood, apple trees, violets, anemones and wake-robins were in blossom, while in the deeper bogland I found one lone, pale Pink Moccasin-Flower (_Cypripedium acaule_).
American White Hellebore, so commonly known as Indian Poke or Itch Weed (_Veratrum viride_), had already sent out a luxuriant growth of green leaves, which for a moment deceived me—as it had done many times before—by its resemblance to the foliage of the Showy Lady’s Slipper. The leaves of both these plants are plicate, and have ever been confused even by the earliest herbalists. Unrolling a spike of leaves one day, I found I had actually disturbed the buds of the queen of the Lady’s Slippers instead of the Hellebore, although they proved to be blasted. No doubt some warm day had started them prematurely, frost and cold rains later proving their ruin.
Here on a sheltered damp hillside, I found my first clusters of the season of the Pink Azalea (_Azalea nudiflora_), which is commonly known hereabout as Swamp-Apple, and which is very similar to _Rhodora Canadensis_. These species belong to the Heath Family, one of the largest among the flora of Hoosac Valley. The beautiful pink flowers of the Great Rhododendron, which measure from one to two inches in diameter, render it the most charming species of this group. It is cultivated extensively, but grows in its natural wild state, in this region, only along the margins of ponds near Montpelier and Wells River, in Vermont.
The American Mountain Laurel (_Kalmia_), which becomes so gorgeous later in the season, the Lambkill, Labrador Tea, Andromeda and the Cassandra are closely allied species of this group, common to this region. Other familiar members of it are the Trailing Arbutus, Gaultheria, and the Creeping Snowberry. They may be found in Aurora’s Swamp.
North Adams is not far from the sources of the south and north branches of the Hoosac River, in a wild and rugged portion of Berkshire. The Hoosac proper is formed at the junction of these two streams, in the vicinity of the Print Works near Marshall Street in the city, and flows on gently in a northwesterly course to join the Hudson, near Lansingburg. Mountain streams in this region are numerous, and flow musically down through deep chasms and over great marble precipices, to swell the Hoosac as it glides slowly out through the deep-cut valley.
“We Hold the Western Gateway,” is part of the inscription on the seal of the city of North Adams, which is known as the “Tunnel City.” This is practically true, for the sole gateway of the trade from the Western States passes though the flinty wall of the Hoosac Mountain, in order to reach Boston direct. The idea of opening a path for transit through the “Forbidden Mountain,” as the Indians called it, was conceived six years after the first mail-coach and four-in-hand rattled through the street of this town to Greenfield, in 1814. It was found impossible to build the projected canal from Boston to Albany. The estimated cost of building the tunnel was less than two million dollars, but when it was completed in 1875, the total financial outlay had amounted to over twenty millions. Until January 1, 1887, this tunnel was owned by the State of Massachusetts, when it was purchased by the Fitchburg Railroad. It is four and three fourths miles long, and twenty-six feet wide, permitting of double tracks. The arch is from twenty-two to twenty-six feet high, and at each portal there is a massive granite façade.
Whenever I come to the Hoosac Valley, I enter, if possible, by way of this tunnel. I seem thus to close away the outer world, and to penetrate a new realm hidden here in the seclusion of the marble highlands. This triumph of man over the power of Nature needs no further introduction here. I can never forget, however, the weary years of hardships endured by those who toiled in its construction, entombed within the heart of the mountain, subject to the dangers of quicksands, falling rocks, damp and gases, explosives, fire and starvation, before the great work was accomplished.
I enjoyed the ridges in the pastures along the foothills of the grim-faced Tunnel Mountain, and about Aurora’s Lake, which reflects like a pretty little mirror the rugged beauty of the hills. This lake is partly natural, but now dammed artificially. Every line of its terraced shores bears the scars of antiquity, which would indicate that ten thousand years ago a larger lake slept in this hollow vale which geologists have estimated at a depth of six hundred feet. Here are rich deposits of glacial drift, and northeast of Aurora’s Lake are sphagnous swamps, where I find many rare orchids and early spring blossoms. Here both the pink and yellow Moccasin-Flowers bloom in May, while in June the queen of the tribe unfolds her white-petaled purity.
[Illustration: =The Botanizing Can, or Vasculum, showing the White-Petaled Lady’s Slippers and Maiden-Hair Fern.=]
This bogland is very similar to that of the Swamp of Oracles in Pownal, in District Fourteen, save for the openness of the former’s shores. Aurora’s Swamp is located in a deep flinty basin, surrounded only by low tangled bushes and open pasture-land beyond, without forests to shield the bogs from the sweep of winds.
The hills are strewn with great boulders left here in the Glacial Age, which rest, poised as monuments of that mystical period. Especially interesting are the dimpled erosions upon one boulder, which rests just northeast of the lakelet, upon the ridges sloping eastward toward the sphagnous swamp. There are visible deep scratches, hollows, arches and miniature pillars, which the whirling eddies of the perilous waves have eroded during the ages unknown. Higher on the summit of the Hoosac rests another immense rock known to students of geology as the “Great Vermonter.” It is said to have been brought from the marble and granite heights of Vermont, imbedded in the ice-drift. Through the melting of the glacial sheet, one of the drifting bergs left this hero of the ages as we may see it now, moored and balanced high on old Hoosac’s brow.
The geological surveys of northern Massachusetts, by President Hitchcock of Amherst in 1838, early identified all of the low, round hills to be seen southward from Aurora’s Lake as the result of glacial action. Mount Greylock’s Brotherhood is a group of giant glacial hills, as it were, and is the highest pile of Taconic formation in this State. The erosions of the great ice-sheet are plainly seen on the rocky summits of these mountains, and only time and the decay of the rock itself will do away with these scars of that mystical age. The name of “Greylock” appears to be derived from the lowering cloud-mist so often capping the whole Brotherhood at early dawn or before a storm.
Vermonters who, from the hills at a great distance to the north, view this group of mountains, depend upon this capping of clouds as a forecast of the weather. Among the old folk, it is known and designated as “Greylock’s Nightcap,” a portent of a coming storm.
Mount Greylock, the highest swell of this range, is 3600 feet above sea level, and commands a variable and extensive view from its bald summit, on which was early erected that first wooden observatory, during President Griffin’s term at Williams College. Here the poet and the philosopher, Hawthorne and Thoreau, have climbed to meditate.
Many a message has gone forth from these heights to bless the busy world. Scarcely is there a son of old Williams who does not recall the mountain-day excursions led by Professor Albert Hopkins, and the glory of old Greylock at dawn and at the sunset hour.
Thoreau writes of it: “It would be no small advantage if every college were thus located at the base of a mountain, as good at least as one well-endowed professorship. It were as well to be educated in the shadow of a mountain as in more classical shades. Some will remember, no doubt, not only that they went to college, but that they went to the mountain. Every visit to its summit would, as it were, generalize the particular information gained below, and subject it to more catholic tests.”[1]
[Illustration: =Mount Greylock’s Brotherhood—the Berkshire Highlands, from Mount Œta, Bennington County, Vermont, Showing the College Town of Williamstown in the Valley.=]
The peak especially designated as Saddleback Mountain is at the junction of the eastern abutments of that huge wall of Taconic Brotherhood which appears south of the old battle-ground where formerly stood the early border Fort Massachusetts, on the Harrison flats, near the flag station of Greylock. The union of Mount Williams, sloping to the east, and Prospect Mountain to the west forms the seat of the saddle.