CHAPTER I.

* * * * *

_Geography._

The impression of the Natives that we came “to spy the country” was sedulously strengthened by the Moors, who were actuated by alarm, jealousy, and a spirit of intolerance unmitigated by a previous intercourse with Europeans. I felt compelled, therefore, to suppress all curiosity for a considerable time, lest the anxiety to detect us in geographical enquiries, to make their calumny more imposing, might have been gratified. Latterly, when better feelings had been induced through patience and candour, as the Moorish charts and MSS. evidence, the inaptitude rather than the reluctance of the natives, made the shortness of our stay unaccommodating. I shall pass over a mass of memoranda recorded on individual report, and only select such, wherein Moors and natives, unknown to each other, have agreed; describing their travels in their own way, without my questions anticipating or directing them. These routes and observations were further confirmed by the evidence of children, recently arrived as slaves from the various countries, whose artless replies decided my credence. It may be remarked, that the children of the African Negroes, early accustomed to travel with their parents for their convenience or their assistance, and unoccupied by the difficulties of incipient education, observe nature more attentively than European children of the same age would; for they have nothing else to think of, or to divert the fatigue of these reiterated trading journies: their evidence, therefore, was a genuine and acceptable check on the Moorish and Negro adults.

The difficulty of adjusting geography by investigation only, is not diminished by the numerous small states, scarcely less frequent than those of modern Italy, which we find to compose this part of Western Africa.

Any thing like observations of the Sun’s place, during a journey, seemed to be so uncommon to the Natives, and so secondary to the Moors, from their confused accounts of the occasional changes, that, after expending much time to no purpose, I was obliged to content myself with placing the different kingdoms in the same direction as their several paths bore from Coomassie, taking every precaution to be convinced that the paths did not cross each other; and afterwards adjusting the positions by the various auxiliary evidence which occurred in the general course of my enquiries. I allow 15 miles for each days journey (which, from observation and report, I have reason to think is the average) and two thirds of the sum to be made good on the horizontal distance, as we found this to be nearly the case in our journey from Annamaboe to Coomassie; the distance travelled being 146 miles, Annamaboe laying in 5° 4′ N., and 1° 43′ W., and the latitude of Coomassie being 6° 34′ 50″ N.; and the longitude 2° 11′ W. by the mean of the observations of the eclipses of Jupiter’s 1st and 2nd satellites.

I procured the numerals of the various countries whenever I could, to assist future enquirers.

There are nine great paths leading from Coomassie, the Dwabin, Akim, Assin, Warsaw, Sauee, Gaman, Soko, Daboia, and Sallagha.

Dwabin is not more than three quarters of a day’s journey eastward from Coomassie, by the route No. 1.; in which I have retained only the larger towns, omitting the villages; as I shall invariably. The river Dah is crossed close to the westward of Dwabin, and said to be as wide as we found it at Sarrasoo. Two journies beyond Dwabin is a small dependent district called Mohoo. Several names, such as Meäsee, Marmpon, Akrofroom, &c. will be found common to different states, as Larissa, Argos, and Thebes were in antient Greece.

There is an eastern branch of the Akim path, entered immediately on leaving Coomassie, to a country called Quaöo, northward of Akim, (of which it seems formerly to have been a district) and adjoining the Volta. Diabbee is its principal town, and the second Wantomoo, 8 journies from Coomassie by route No. 2. The latter is situated at the foot of a mountain whence the Boosempra issues, with two smaller rivers, the Soobirree and Sesee, running to the Kirradee. This district is entered the 3d day from Coomassie.

There are two routes to Accra through Akim, the capital of which is Bannasoo, 5 journies, and the northern frontier town Feëa, 3 journies from Coomassie. The easternmost route to Accra is 15 journies; the other is made 17 journies to pass near the lake Boosmaquee. This lake, 3 journies from Coomassie, was described as four miles long, and nearly three broad; upwards of thirty small crooms were reckoned situated around it, supported by fishing: the water was said to be unpleasant to drink, and to give a reddish hue to the hair of the people who washed in it. Fish were forwarded thence daily for the King’s table, by relays of men. It was called the white mans fetish, there being a popular superstition, nourished by the Moors, that Europeans were to join it with the sea, to introduce vessels for the subjugation of the country. Close to the lake is a mountain called Quashee Boposoo, sometimes seen clearly from Coomassie, abounding in large black stones, described as basaltes. By this route (No. 3.) to Accra, the Akim country is entered the 4th day, the Boosempra is crossed on the 6th, by a tree laid over it, and the Birrim, by a line and raft on the 12th; it is much wider than the Boosempra is where we crossed it, and runs to that river, falling into it just above our crossing. The Aquapim, a clear and mountainous country, is entered on the 16th day. By the eastern route, No. 4, the Akim country is entered the 4th day; a large hill called Abirrawantoo is passed the 9th; thence the Birrim springs, crossing the path twice before it runs to the Boosempra. Three days westward from this mountain, is a second, called Papow, in which the Aïnshue or the Winnebah river rises. A river called Dinshue rises also in this neighbourhood, running to the Saccomo, which falls into the sea 8 miles west of Accra. Isert, who visited Aquapim, called the capital Kommang, but Akropong is so now. The distance from Coomassie to Accra may be estimated at 230 miles, which bears about the same proportion to the horizontal distance, as the path we travelled through Assin from Annamaboe. Dr. Leyden was much imposed on in the extravagant account he has given of the extent, power, and commerce of Akim,[15] which is placed in the map accompanying his work, eastward of Dahomey, instead of westward of the Volta. Dr. Isert was a Danish gentleman, who had the good fortune to cure the former King of Ashantee’s sister of a lingering disorder, after she had exhausted all the skill of the fetish women, and came to Christiansburg Castle in despair. He afterwards expressed his wish to visit the Ashantee kingdom; and being encouraged, he set out in June 1786, and staying some days in Aquapim, was just about to enter Akim, when he was recalled by the Governor. A dangerous illness, heightened by his disappointment, soon afterwards disgusted him with the country, and he left it for the West Indies. As Dr. Isert’s letters are only known in German and Dutch,[16] and he was an industrious and scientific observer, an extract from his description of the Aquapim country will be acceptable. I am indebted for a Latin translation of this and other passages, adduced on different subjects, to Dr. Reynhaut of Elmina Castle.

“I began my journey early in the morning of the 17th of June, and after walking two hours I arrived at a little village, picturesquely situated, named Aschiama. Two hours behind this lies a chain of mountains, which are composed of granitous stones; flints are but rarely found. The whole prospect shews itself here in a very different manner to that observed in sandy countries; the rocks are covered with lofty trees, which are encompassed with small forests almost impervious. The soil, no longer sandy, becomes argillaceous, and excellent for vegetation. Behind these forests I arrived at a Negro village called Abodee, eight leagues from Christiansburg: the inhabitants of this place are very tenacious of native ceremony and etiquette. Thence I passed by an irregular path through the following villages, Fiasso, Fientema, Futu, Mampon, Odaky, Manno, and Manseng. An hour afterwards I reached a village named Kommong, the residence of H.R.H. the Duke of Aquapim. Here the country is charming, though forests are still to be found. Mountains, rocks, and vallies vary each other in the most striking order; fresh water, so rarely obtained in maritime countries, is found here of an excellent quality. Near this village a stream constantly rushes from the summit of a rock, and affords a fresh and crystalline water. Trees of a very large circumference are also found; I calculated one of the biggest to be 45 feet round and 15 in diameter. These trees are not the same as those of which Adanson speaks in his description of Senegal, (Adansonia digitata) but are of a peculiar species; they much resemble a round tower, as they do not bear either flowers or fruits. Here I found the Ammonium Grana Paradisi, the Ammonium Zerumber, and a new genus in a perpendicular tree ornamented by flowers, which resembled tulips, (Novum Genus Tetandriæ) and of great elegance: also a new species of aloe, of which the inhabitants make thread; a new species of citron with indented leaves, and a multitude of unknown trees and shrubs. In the thickest forests grows a species of Spanish cane, very straight and well proportioned, and often attaining six feet in height; it is to be wished that it could be made use of, treating it as the Chinese do, for if, when dry, an equal degree of tenacity could be induced, it would prove superior in quality. I observed, on the boughs of the trees, the Senna plant (which is parasitic, and consists entirely of a flower), it was almost the shape of a pine when open, and the inside is of a very deep red; the Negroes use it in the syphilitic disorder, when first attacked. I took it for the Aphuteia Hydrora of Thunberg, but on examination it differs much, as it belongs to Icosandria. Palm trees are here very rare, except the oliferous (Elois Guineensis) and the viniferous (an Phœnix) which are cultivated in great numbers; also the true cocoa nut trees (Cocas nucifera) and the false (an Borassus.) In a word, nature entirely changes her form as soon as you reach the summit of the chain of mountains, and I do not believe one twentieth part of the plants found here are the same as those on the Coast. With regard to natural history, I was less happy in making discoveries. The elephant, so abundantly inhabiting the environs of Fidah, (Whydah) and other wild beasts, are here very rare, which may be attributed to the scarcity of grass, the growth of which is prevented by the almost impenetrable forests. Several sorts of birds are here seen, principally paroquets, of which I knew six species, Psittacus, Erythæus and Pullarius (Linn.) the others seem to be new, and I also saw a great number of insects of new species. The mineral kingdom would perhaps be richer if they had mines here. The rocks are solely composed of rough stones like granite and grens, and their species; dry quartz and slate stones are often found; on the other hand I could not discover calcareous earth. The soil is varied, but consists in general of a rich aluminous earth, traced in different colours, and of a rich black earth with which sand is never mixed. The atmosphere seemed more salubrious than on the sea coast, though physicians generally deny this quality to exist near the forests which grow in warm climates. I believe the elevated situation of the country contributes much to it. The Europeans who inhabit the Coast in forts, would do well to establish an hospital and a garden here. The Arum Esculentum, the Banana (Musa sapientum) the Ananas (Bromelia Ananas) the Carica Papaia and Citron all abound here.”

The Assin path is that described in the route from Annamaboe to Coomassie, it branches off at Foosoo to Ensabra, two journies from Winnebah, through Anissoo, Asoidroo (the head quarters of the King of Ashantee in the invasion of 1807) and Atoäperrim, which means “to fire a gun.” The principal town of Assin is Ansa, through which we passed, Akrofroom, apparently larger, is called the second. A range of stony hills is the boundary of Assin and Akim.

The path to Elmina, through the Warsaw country, makes so considerable an angle to the westward, that the Ashantees invariably declared it occupied more time to travel than the Assin; it is allowed to be ten journies at Elmina, by route No. 5. The Dah is crossed the first day at its town Adahsoo, and in the evening Becquoi (one of the five large towns built by the Ashantees) is reached. The Dankara country is entered the third day, the Tufel the fourth, the Warsaw the sixth, the Boosempra is crossed the tenth day, the Ofim, which skirts this path to the westward (having received the Dah at Meeäsee) falling into it. The capital of the Dankara country is four journies westward of Coomassie, and the frontier is entered the second by route No. 6: it is the most productive of gold, but has been extravagantly over-rated in Bosman’s report of its population. The river Seënnee, or, as the Portuguese have called it, Ancobra, from its serpentine course, has been thought to rise just beyond the north eastern frontier, but it will presently appear to be a branch of the Tando of the Ashantees. In the Dutch copies of the old Portuguese charts, Dankara is placed eastward of Ashantee. The Warsaw country will be noticed more particularly, in considering the maritime geography from Cape Coast Castle to the river Assinee.

The Warsaw path has two grand branches, one to Apollonia and one to Aöwin, each thirteen journies; the former is in the small kingdom of Amanăheä. The Aöwin country extends from Apollonia to the river Assinee, five journies in length and three in breadth; it is governed by seven or eight caboceers, like those of Warsaw, independent of each other: it can furnish about 5000 soldiers. The numerals of Amanăheä and Aöwin will appear in an essay on the Fantee language. Both countries are at the mercy of the Ashantees, who extort gold from them frequently, though they have not yet fixed the tributes.

Sauëe lies eight journies W.N.W. from Coomassie, and Moinsan fifteen. I could not procure the routes, but Wom and Sannasee are two of the largest towns which are passed through.

Buntookoo, the capital of the kingdom of Gaman, is 11 journies N.N.W. of Coomassie by route No. 7. The river Ofim is crossed the second day, the Tando the fifth, thence the country becomes open. Yammee, the frontier town of Gaman, is reached the eighth day. The name of the King of Gaman is Adinkara; the capital, though not so large, is allowed to be better built than Coomassie, and the Moorish influence has been longer established. It is incomparably the richest country in gold, and small pits were described to me, like those Mr. Park saw at Shrondo. The numerals are,

One Tah.

Two Noo.

Three Sah.

Four Nah.

Five Taw.

Six Torata.

Seven Toorifeenoo.

Eight Toorifeessa.

Nine Toorifeena.

Ten Noonoo.

The four principal Gaman towns, are Sarem, which some call the capital, Bandakeeä, Bundoo, and Nasseä, five journies from Kong, and seven from Buntookoo.

A powerful kingdom called Bahooree, which has hitherto successfully resisted the Ashantees, was described to be westward, and expected to afford refuge to the King of Gaman on the approaching invasion.

I had heard it reported that the Tando formed the Assinee river, about 35 miles westward of Cape Apollonia, but a very intelligent Ashantee satisfied me this was a mistake, arising probably from Seënee being the native name of the Ancobra, which is formed by one branch of the Tando; a second running westward. The Tando is not near so large as the Boosempra, and therefore very unlikely to form so large a river as the Assinee; the western branch may possibly run into it. Mr. Meredith, writing from report without sufficiently checking it, has made the Tando and the Chamah or Boosempra the same; yet, p. 225, he adds, “the Volta is more probably a branch of the Tando, a large river reported as running to the eastward, and which the Ashantees are obliged to cross in coming to the Coast;” he did not reflect that he thus laid down a river running out of the sea. The Tando, we have seen, is five days northward of Coomassie, it rises in some rocky hills called Toofeeä, near the large town Aënkroo, between the Banda and Inta paths.

Soko (formerly a province of Gaman) is 11 journies from Coomassie; and Banda, four beyond, and a little to the eastward; see route No. 8. The first day, Tafoo is reached, a large aboriginal Inta town, for, as will be seen in the historical report, the Ashantees emigrated, and subjected several Inta districts now forming the northern part of their dominions, and trenched considerably on that declining kingdom, now entirely at their mercy. If Mr. Dalzel had reflected, it would have occurred to him, that the Taffoe, Tafoe, or Tafu of Snelgrave (placed so absurdly in his map, 60 miles west of the mouth of the Volta) and the In-ta[17] he heard of at Dahomey, and confounded with Ashantee, were the same: for the In in In-ta is scarcely audible, and only a slight nasal sound barely amounting to n, as N-ta; foo is merely an adjunct equal to people or men in our language, affixed in the present infancy of African language to all names of countries, as if we always said the Scotchmen or Irishmen, instead of the Scotch and Irish. The Ofim is crossed one day beyond Tafoo at its croom Ofeesoo, the Tando four journies beyond at Tandosoo. Takima is reached the eighth day, whence the Fantees are reported, by tradition, to have emigrated, and there is yet but little difference in the languages.

Sixteen journies N.N.E. of Coomassie is Boopee (which I have placed accordingly in 8° 42′ N. and 1° 19′ W.) the frontier town of Inta, hitherto confounded with Ashantee, than which it is more populous and more civilized. The Moorish influence has been long established there, and almost all its caboceers affect to profess that faith. The river Adirri, which we shall presently identify with the Volta, is crossed four hours southward of Boopee, and is described as about 120 yards broad; it rises eight journies N.W. of Boopee, in a large mountain called Kondoongooree, one of the mountains of Kong, which were distinctly and invariably reported not to be a chain, but frequently and individually scattered, from Kong eastward. Seven journies from Coomassie, on the Inta route, is the smaller kingdom Coranza (probably the Corisseno of the old maps) the people of which are of the same origin as the Ashantees by tradition, but, as the King himself assured me, of much more genius and aptitude. Three journies from Boopee is Daboia, the second town of Inta. The first journey is to Minsiroo, where lions are numerous; the second to Moronko, the inhabitants of which are so fearful of being carried off as slaves by the Ashantee traders (who travel in great numbers) that they have no doors to their houses, but ascending by a ladder, which they immediately draw up, they enter through the thatch. Close to Moronko is a river, about as large as the Boosempra, called Adiffofoo. Pahmee, three journies south eastward of Daboia, and Yabo which I cannot place so precisely, are the alternate residences of the King of Inta. There is a constant commercial intercourse between Inta and Dahomey, the frontiers being five journies apart. The numerals of Inta are

One Koko.

Two Anyoe.

Three Assa.

Four Anna.

Five Annoo.

Six Assee.

Seven Assoonno.

Eight Adoobrooa.

Nine Digrakoono.

Ten Koodoo.

Sallagha, the grand market of the Inta kingdom, is 17 journies north- eastward from Coomassie, by route No. 10. The first is to Marmpon, one of the five large towns built by the Ashantees, and possessing palatine privileges; the second, through five smaller towns to Aphwaguiassie, the largest market in the Ashantee kingdom; the 9th day the rivers Kirradee and Oboosoom are crossed, each about 60 yards wide, and flowing so near together, as to appear one in the rainy season; a high mountain, Aduarreekennee, is just beyond them, the boundary of Ashantee and Booroom. The tenth day the river Sennee is forded, which afterwards enlarges considerably, and runs into the Volta; it rises five journies from Coomassie (by route No. 11) between the Boopee and Sallagha paths. The Booroom country is quite open, and the Ashantees give the river the figurative name of Birrinsoo, which means that its distance is so deceiving, that you will cry before you reach it. The capital of Booroom is Guia, a considerable town, noticed in the route to Odentee, a fetish sanctuary of great repute, and said to be splendidly furnished. The Ashantee language is spoken very commonly in Booroom, but the vernacular numerals are

One Ekoo.

Two Enoo.

Three Essa.

Four Enna.

Five Annoo.

Six Esseä.

Seven Assoono.

Eight Aquiay.

Nine Akonno.

Ten Edoo.

The tenth day the Adirri or Volta is crossed, more than a mile wide, but much interrupted by rocks, and described to be full of hippopotami (which they call sea elephants,) and alligators. This river divides Booroom from Inta, Sallagha being one day’s long march from it. Calculating the 17 journies to Sallagha at 15 miles each, the course as N.E. by E. and supposing two thirds to be made good on the horizontal distance, according to our own experience, which gives 170 B. equal to 147 G. miles, Sallagha will lie in latitude 7° 56′ N., and longitude 9″ W. As a check upon this position, it will be necessary to follow the Adirri or Volta as far as the natives navigate it from Adda, where it is called the Flou (as the falls of the Senegal.) Isert’s report may be interesting as an introduction.

“The people of Adda think it derogatory to cultivate land, and live by fishing, and making salt, which they sell to the people of the Interior. The Volta has no breakers, and therefore may be presumed to be deep.” This is an extraordinary mistake; Dalzel says there are high breakers. Colonel Starrenberg (of Engineers) at Elmina Castle, who went about 60 miles up the Volta, accompanied by a Danish officer and flag, and met with no impediment so far, but turned back reluctantly in three or four fathoms of water, observed to me, that he thought the channel between the breakers about a mile wide. Dalzel mentions an American brig making good her passage over the bar, on which there is about two fathoms water; and a Danish schooner has done so since. “An arm goes from the mouth to Quitta.” This must be the river running from Lagos into the Volta, near the mouth, as will be shewn in considering the errors in the maritime geography. “Six English miles from the mouth, it forms a lake 60 miles long and 48 broad, whence an arm extends to Pottriba, 3 miles eastward of Quitta: in this lake are more than a hundred islands.” Colonel Starrenberg thought the river widened about 9 British miles from the mouth, but the number of small islands prevented even ocular demonstration. So large a lake would certainly have been spoken of by the natives to Europeans ere this; those whom I have questioned, have gone up the river to the extreme navigable point, and crossed it in many parts; and they all declare that at Ascharee, 2 days from Adda, it is not two miles wide. I never could find either an Ashantee, or a waterside native, who knew of the arm running to Pottriba, a name they had not heard of; neither could Col. Starrenberg learn any thing of it; no branch appeared as far as he went. Isert probably alluded, from report, to the river Assuafroo, which runs from eastward into the Volta, 7 journies from Adda, as will appear in the natives account. “From May to December the water is good to drink, being then higher than the sea; in the other months it is not so, but produces more fish. The river overflows in July, and August, and the neighbourhood of its banks is excellent for the cultivation of rice.” Rice is abundantly cultivated in the Inta kingdom. “Three miles from the sea is an island, called Bird Island, full of pelicans of peculiar kinds. There is a fish in this river called hardrass, which, when smoked, is exactly like European salmon. There are also hippopotami and crocodiles: quantities of oysters adhere to the mangroves, but when the river is fresh they are good for nothing. There are a great number of singing birds, and a nightingale equal to the Polish, which sings in May and December.” Col. Starrenberg heard a nightingale, but saw only one hippopotamus. There is a kind of cedar tree, (Avicenniæ nov. spec.) which shoots up many branches from the ground, about as thick as a pipe, and bare of leaves: this tree is so very salt in its nature, that in the morning a great quantity of liquid salt is found on the leaves, chrystallizing in the course of the day.[18] Amalfee is on an island, 48 miles from the mouth, the inhabitants of which, and those on the banks of the river, of Agrafee, Wefee, Tophirree, and Bettoo, call themselves river inhabitants. The former are the brokers of slaves for the Creppee country, and receive a vast number from one of its provinces called Acottim, 3 journies eastward.”

Mr. Meredith could scarcely have enquired about the Creppee or Aquamboe countries, to have placed them west of the Volta. The natives who carry salt up the Volta, pull the 1st day, by Agrafee, Foomee, and Tefferee to Amanfee, on the banks; the 2nd to Dofo on an island; the 3rd, by Ascharee, on the western bank, to Adomë; the 4th by Assafoo to the Aquamboe country; the 5th to Sowa; the 6th to Pessee; the 7th by Appasoo, to Deyatoompon, where a large river flows into the Volta from the eastward; to Doodee the 8th; to Tombo the 9th; to Akorosoo the 10th; to Odentee the 11th. Here the river becomes too rocky to proceed conveniently, and hence to Sallagha by land is 4 journies, through the large towns Oboëkee, Akuntong, Enkungquakroo, and Apapassee, famous for making cotton cloth. There is a small state northward, between Aquamboe and Inta, called Anoöchoo, subject to Ashantee, bordering on which is Guasoo, the southern district or province of Inta. The Creppee country borders on Aquamboe eastward, and is independent.

I am not in possession of Colonel Starrenberg’s bearings, but the course of the river may be pretty well ascertained from fixing the points of Odentee, Quaöo, and Ascharee. Odentee is 6 journies southward of east (by route No. 12) from Pattooda, in the Booroom country, and mentioned in the route to Sallagha. Quaöo, the country where the Boosempra rises, has already been mentioned as entered 8 journies from Coomassie. Ascharee, 2 days and a half pull up the river, is reached in 1 day’s walk from Ningo. The course of the Volta is consequently about W.N.W. to Quaöo, N.E. by N. to Odentee, and N.W. by Sallagha, which course it appears to continue to Boopee, if not to its source in the Kondoongooree mountain. The 10 days pull from Adda to Odentee, and the 4 journies by land thence to Sallagha, agree very well with the distance and position of that place, as before calculated by the 17 days route from Coomassie. The houses of Sallagha and other towns of Inta were mentioned as peculiar from being round. Leo Africanus observed houses built in the form of bells at Timbuctoo.

Seven days from Sallagha, N.E. according to the Moors, through the Inta town of Zongoo, is Yahndi, the capital of Dagwumba, which I have placed, calculating the course at N.E. by E., and allowing 18 miles for each journey, as the country is said to be open, in 55′ E. and 8° 38′ N.: the position is assisted by the common account of its being 8 journies from Daboia, by route No. 13, and that two obscure, but direct paths to Daboia and Yahndi, from Coomassie, occupy the first 19 days, and the latter (described as laying between Daboia and Sallagha) 23 days. Sir William Young, in his Report of the Geography and History of Northern Africa, writes, “the Slatees of Old Calebar are said to carry on their trade to Degombah _northward_,” which also supports my placing it more to the eastward than it appears in Major Rennel’s map. Yngwa, a district and large town of Dagwumba, is said to lie 8 days north-westward of Yahndi, through Sakoigoo; its distance from Daboia, by report 6 journies, places it about N.N.W. Two journies from Daboia, towards Yngwa, is the river Adiffofoo, about 60 yards wide, running eastward, 2 journies from which is Kooboro, a large Dagwumba town.

North-eastward of Yahndi is Tonomah, of which I do not recollect more than the name, though I think it is a town and district of Dagwumba. The kingdom of Tonowah, of which Assentai has been described as the capital by the Shereef Imhammed,[19] must have been derived from this name, being otherwise unknown. Three journies north-eastward of Yahndi is Sokoquo or Ensoko, also a considerable town.

Yahndi is described to be beyond comparison larger than Coomassie, the houses much better built and ornamented. The Ashantees who had visited it, told me, they frequently lost themselves in the streets. The King, Inăna Tanquăree, has been converted by the Moors, who have settled there in great numbers. Mr. Lucas called it the Mahomedan kingdom of Degomba, and it was represented to him as peculiarly wealthy and civilized. The markets of Yahndi are described as animated scenes of commerce, constantly crowded with merchants from almost all the countries of the interior. Horses and cattle abound, and immense flocks are possessed even by the poorer class. The numerals of Dagwumba and Yngwa differing, I submit both.

_Yngwa._ _Dagwumba._

One Lakoo Yahndo

Two Ayee Ayee

Three Attah Attah

Four Anāhee Nasee

Five Leerennoo Ennoon

Six Ayoboo Yohbee

Seven Ayapaï Poiee

Eight Annee Nehenoo

Nine Awai Whyee

Ten Peä Edoo.

Yahndi is named after the numeral one, from its pre-eminence. Sarem is the name of a region, including Gaman, Inta, and Dagwumba, so called from the open nature of those countries.

One day from Sallagha, towards Yahndi, and scarcely one journey westward from the latter, is the river Laka, described to be as large and as rapid as the Adirri or Volta, which it joins below Odentee, and may therefore be safely concluded to be the Assuafroo; for the names of rivers are very mutable in Africa, each country through which they pass naturalising them to its own language, and thus increasing the perplexities of a geography founded on investigation. I could not procure any authorized account of the northward course of this river, the best opportunities had escaped me when I heard of it.

Five journies N.E. from Yahndi is the smaller kingdom of Gamba, the birth place of Baba the chief Moor at Coomassie, and the boundary of the Ashantee authority, though its influence, through the much respected medium of Dagwumba, would extend to the Niger. Seven journies northward of Yngwa is the kingdom of Fobee: the river Koontoorooa is crossed four days from it, being about half a mile broad, it has an eastern and western branch, the former running to the Karhala, one day farther, considerably wider, and the course south-eastward. One journey from the river is a large mountain called Sarraka, the same distance from Fobee, the capital of the kingdom. Lakoo, Lamma, Karhala, and Koomada are the next largest towns. Five journies northward is an independent kingdom called Chouoocha. The position of Fobee is checked by Goorooma, being 15 journies from it, (a kingdom to be noticed presently in the direct northern route from Yahndi to Houssa,) and Kawerree only nine, doubtless Cayree, a kingdom in the route of the Moors from Coomassie to Jinnie. The numerals of Fobee are

One Koroom.

Two Nalay.

Three Poompevarra.

Four Leetaynalee.

Five Kakwassee.

Six Mannassa.

Seven Noottoosoo.

Eight Borafay.

Nine Pirrifay.

Ten Nanooa.

Five journies from Yngwa is Mosee, a more warlike but less visited kingdom; it consists of many states, but the superior monarch is named Billa, and the capital Kookoopella. I place this N.W., because, although its traders pass through Yngwa, they do not cross the Karhala, or indeed any river but what they can walk through. The numerals are

One Yimbo.

Two Ayeeboo.

Three Ataboo.

Four Annasee.

Five Annoo.

Six Ayobee.

Seven Owhi.

Eight Ennee.

Nine Aïhopoi.

Ten Peega.

A few days northward of Fobee, through Chamday and Kobafoo, is Calanna, described as a very large city, rivalling Yahndi as a market, and situated at the foot of a mountain abounding in iron stone, which they manufacture for rude purposes in much the same manner as Mr. Park witnessed at Jeningalla. Calanna is probably the Calanshee of Imhammed, who told Mr. Lucas that it was a dependency of Tounouwah or Assentai, situated mid-way between it and the coast, 18 journies from each. The numerals are

One Kodoom.

Two Naboolla.

Three Naweedazoo.

Four Nabonaza.

Five Nabonoa.

Six Lodoo.

Seven Logwa.

Eight Littaïzoo.

Nine Nako.

Ten Yewoo.

Kumsallahoo I have not attempted to lay down, having no other guide for placing it than the report that it is one moon’s journey from Dagwumba, that its traders pass through Mosee, and cross only one river, the Fachinga, and that not large. The numerals are

One Yumbo.

Two Yeeboo.

Three Tabo.

Four Nasee.

Five Annoo.

Six Yobo.

Seven Poihee.

Eight Nehee.

Nine Wahee.

Ten Pega.

We will now return to Coomassie and proceed northwards to Jinnie, or as it was generally pronounced, Jennë. This route to Tombuctoo (or Timbooctoo) is much less frequented by the Moors than that from Dagwumba, through Houssa. They alledge that the people northward, are neither so commercial, so civilized, or so wealthy as those north- eastward. The first 12 journies are to Buntookoo, seven journies whence is a river called by the natives Coombo, and by the Moors, Zamma; it is described as half a mile broad, and running westward. I could not find any Ashantee who had travelled beyond this river, which is the northern limit of their authority. Five journies eastward of north from the river, is Kong, the King of which is named Asequoo. A large mountain called Toolileseena is near the capital, and a small river, Woora, four journies from it. The kingdom is said to be by no means so wealthy or powerful as that of Ashantee; the market is supplied from Houssa, the country is populous, horses numerous, and elephants killed daily. The people fight with spears, and bows and arrows. Seven journies from Kong several mountains are passed, called Koonkoori. Mr. Park says, that “Kong signifies mountain in the Mandingo language, which language is in use from the frontier of Bambarra to the western sea.” The language of Kong seems to be a corruption of the Bambarra or Mandingo: the numerals are

One Kiddee.

Two Filla.

Three Sowa.

Four Nanoo.

Five Looroa.

Six Wora.

Seven Ooranfilla.

Eight Leeaygee.

Nine Konunto.

Ten Tah.

The Ashantees calling all the slaves whom they brought down to the water side Dunkos, it had been, for many years, naturally concluded that there was a large country of that name in their neighbourhood. Isert writes, “the Dunkoers are a people behind Ashantee.” On enquiry, however, I found to my surprise, that there is no country of that name, but that it is merely an epithet, synonymous with the barbarian of the Greeks and Romans, which they apply to all the people of the interior but themselves, and implies an ignorant fellow. I first suspected this from observing some Dunkos were cut in the face, and some not, and I presently discovered their vernacular languages were various, and unintelligible to each other. Generally speaking, the bush or country people of Dagwumba have three light cuts on each cheek bone, and three below, with one horizontal under the eye; those of Yahndi, three deep continued cuts; the people of Mosee, three very deep and long, and one under the eye; those of Bornoo are frequently cut in the forehead; of Marrowa all over the body in fine, small, and intricate patterns. In Fobee, Kumsallahoo, and Calanna, the lower orders have a hole bored through the cartilage of the nose. These cuts are made during infancy, to insinuate fetish liquids to invigorate and preserve the child.

Nine journies northward of Kong is Kaybee, the King of which, named Mamooroo, killed the former monarch Dabbira. The country was said to be very populous, the capital behind a mountain called Beseeree, the soil chalky, and asses as numerous as horses. Three journies from the frontier of Kaybee, over a large mountain called Seboopoo, and across a large river, is Kayree, through which country it is very dangerous to pass, the people laying in ambush in small parties to rob or kidnap travellers, and subsisting by rapine. Five journies thence is Garoo (probably Gago[20]) a very powerful kingdom, the King, Batoomo, lives at Netaquolla. Twenty journies beyond is the kingdom of Doowarra, the people of which are indifferent warriors, but superior agriculturists, and plant extensively; the soil is red earth. A smaller kingdom called Filladoo or Firrasoo, is in the neighbourhood. Five journies north of Doowarra is the Niger, and on an island, about a mile from the southern bank, is Jennë. The route from Kong to Jennë is the only one which has not been checked by Negro evidence, but I had reason to think well of the Moor who furnished it, who never contradicted himself, though repeatedly cross questioned during the four months I was at Coomassie. The places reported to Mr. Park on this route, it is true, are none of them mentioned, but, probably, the people who were insuperably adverse to his proceeding, were the least likely to satisfy his curiosity but by imposing on him.[21] Mr. Park in his route from Sego to Bædoo, has a town called Doowassoo, only four journies from Sego; but I was assured repeatedly that Doowarra is a powerful kingdom. In the first Mission, Mr. Park reported the kingdom of Gotto to be so close to the Niger, that its chief, Moösee, embarked on it to attack Jinnie, and Major Rennell has placed it accordingly: but, in the second, he writes, “one month’s travel south of Bædoo,” (which he makes 30 journies southward of Sego) “through the kingdom of Gotto, will bring the traveller to the country of the Christians, who have their houses on the banks of the Ba Sea Feena.” He says the Ba Nimma rises in the Kong mountains south of Marraboo, but does not mention the kingdom of Kong in his route, which is about one moon’s travel from the sea, as he has described Bædoo to be. Now it is very unlikely, if Bædoo had been but 20 journies from Coomassie, that we should not have heard of it; and it is next to impossible, that if any kingdom called Gotto laid still nearer, (which it must have done, to have been passed through from Bædoo to the sea) that it should have been unknown. Indeed, if the kingdom of Bambarra extended 28 days south of Sego, as appears by the route given to Mr. Park, the Ashantees would not have spoken of it from mere report, but would probably have become acquainted with it, either through war, commerce, or negotiation. It is a little extraordinary that the kingdom of Ashantee, reported as eminently powerful to Mr. Lucas even so far distant as Mesurata, and which must be well known in the neighbourhood of Jennë, from the number of Moors who visit it from that city, should not even have been noticed to Mr. Park in this southern route from Silla or Sego to the sea. Mr. Park writes of the Moors not being able to subject Jinbala; I believe they insinuate themselves as residents every where, but I could not hear of their having established themselves by force, or of their composing even the greater part of a population any where.[22]

Having reached the Niger it is time to observe, that it is only known to the Moors by the name of Quolla, pronounced rather as Quorra by the Negroes, who, from whatever countries they came, all spoke of this as the largest river they knew; and it was the grand feature in all the routes (whether from Houssa, Bornoo, or the intermediate countries) to Ashantee. Mr. Horneman wrote that the Niger, in some parts of Houssa, was called _Gaora_, which must sound very like Quorra. The Niger, after leaving the lake Dibbir, was invariably described as dividing in two large streams; the Quolla, the greater, pursuing its course south- eastward until it joined the Bahr Abiad, and the other branch running northward of east near Timbuctoo, and dividing again soon afterwards; the smaller stream running northwards by Yahoodee, a place of great trade,[23] and the larger turning directly eastward, and increasing considerably, running to the lake Caudi or Cadi under the name of Gambaroo.[24] The Moors call the branch running by Timbuctoo the Jolliba, I presume figuratively, as a great water, for I was assured by a native of Jennë, who had frequently visited Timbuctoo, that this branch was called Zah-mer by the Negroes.[25]

The variety of the concurrent evidence respecting the Gambaroo, certainly made an impression on my mind almost amounting to conviction. De Lisle, in his map of Africa for the use of Louis XV, (the accuracy of which in one point where our latest charts are in error, the Lagos river, will be shewn towards the close of this Report) makes a branch from the Niger running near Timbuctoo; and what is even more to the point, writes “Gambarou ou Niger.” It was not till sometime after my return from Ashantee, that I unexpectedly discovered this solitary European record of such a name, and it will at least be allowed that so respectable a character as De Lisle, would neither have laid down the branch from the Niger (for it is as likely to be so in the absence of explanation, as a river running into it) without some authority, nor have invented the name Gambarou: and it will also be allowed, that he must have heard of it as being a very large river, to have confounded it with the Niger. De Lisle has preserved most of the names reported to me, more closely than any other geographer.[26] In the judicious compendium of Mr. Murray, I observe the following note. “It is but justice to D’Anville to say, that in his map of central Africa, inserted in the 26th volume of the Academie des Inscriptions, he has represented a river passing close to Timbuctoo, running S.W., and falling into the Niger. This delineation has not been copied by others, but it is not the less probable that that excellent geographer may have had positive information on which to found it.” Now, I may presume, this is only recorded in delineation, and not noticed by D’Anville in the text, or, his authority would have appeared. I shall be indulged in such a conjecture, when it is recollected I am writing where I cannot satisfy myself, in a place destitute of literary facilities. If it is only to be found in the delineation, it is of course, as likely to be a branch running N.E. from the Niger, as a river running S.W. into it. Mr. Park has described the Niger as dividing into two large branches after leaving Dibbie, and their re-union has been admitted by considerate investigators, to be a very improbable addition to that report.[27] Sidi Hamet assigns no course to the great river which he described as about an hour’s ride with a camel south of Timbuctoo, and distinguished from the Niger, or, as he called it, Zolilib, by saying the latter was two hours ride. Adams placed La-mar-Zarah, about three quarters of a mile wide, two miles south of the town, without hesitation, but he only _conceived_ that the course was S.W.[28] Leo, ambiguous as the context may be, certainly writes that there is a _branch_ of the Niger passing Timbuctoo, “Vicino a un ramo del Niger.” Mr. Beaufoy’s Moor says that below Ghinea is the sea into which the river of Tombuctoo disembogues itself; on which Major Rennell observes, “by the word sea, it is well known the Arabs mean to express a lake also:” this river of Timbuctoo is, doubtless, the branch of the Niger forming the Gambaroo, and the sea below Ghinea, the lake Caude. In the Description de l’Afrique, traduite du Flamand, D’O. Dapper, à Amsterdam, 1686, I find “Ce Royaume de Tombut ou Tongbutu environ à quatre lieuës _d’un bras_ du Niger.” The account, to be submitted presently, that this branch of the Niger passing Timbuctoo is not crossed until the third day going from Timbuctoo to Houssa, is not an argument against its identity with the Zarah of Adams, or the river of Sidi Hamet, only two or three miles from the city; because, giving a northerly course to the branch, and Houssa laying north eastward 20 journies from Timbuctoo, as will be shewn presently, the direction of the path would not require the river to be crossed immediately, but, evidently, not till the second or third day.

De Barros, who considered the Senegal to be the Niger, wrote, that it received various names,[29] and was called by the Caragoles (Serawoollies) Collë; on which Mr. Murray reasonably observes, “this name seems readily convertible into Joli-ba, the latter syllable being merely an adjunct, meaning a river:” this I was also given to understand. Now, if the name Joliba had not been reported on the authority of Mr. Park, I might submit that Collë is more readily convertible into Quolla, which approximating even more closely to Kulla, seems to identify the Collë and Kulla under the common name of Quolla.[30] Mr. Park in his memoir to Lord Camden, writes, “the river of Dar Kulla, mentioned by Mr. Browne, is generally supposed to be the Niger, or at least to have a communication with that river.” The name and course of the Quolla suggested this to me before I observed the above remark, which I did not until my return.[31] Other arguments will presently appear for the identity of the Kulla and the Niger.[32]

The Gambaroo seems to me to identify the Gir of Ptolemy,[33] carried by him into the centre of Africa, and which would appear as large as the Niger by the expression, “maximi sunt Gir et Nigir.” The river of Bornoo, hitherto assumed, is not adequate to the impression Ptolemy conveys, and the names “Gir et Nigir,” seem to indicate a connection. The Niger may be considered to terminate when the smaller stream is lost in the Nile.

Concerning the source of the Niger, there was a difference of opinion amongst the Moors, and not the least notion amongst the Negroes. Some said that it rose in Bambooch, meaning, as I presume, Bambouk, and others in Jabowa, where they described another large river to rise also, running westward. Jabowa was said to be 40 journies from Sego, and Bambooch 43.

From Jabowa the Niger was described to run to Fouta Gollabi, and in six days thence to Fouta Towra; the Moors must certainly have meant Foota Galla, and Footatora, for their pronunciation was more imperfect than their knowledge of the native names westward, whither they rarely travelled. I induced a Moor on each side the question, and of different countries, to draw in my quarters, unknown to each other, what they called a chart of the Quolla, for the sake of preserving the several names in their own writing. They were only inferior to one Moor, from whom I never had an opportunity of inducing a chart. Both parties met, apparently, at Hasoo, as will be seen by submitting the names.[34]

_Bambooch._ _Jabowa._

_Journies._

10 to Gadima, probably Gadoo, little more than 6 journies from the capital of Bambook, according to Major Rennell.

20 to Hasoo Hasoowa.

4 to Jaoora Jaoona.

2 to Jamoo Gamsoö.

5 to Mallaïa Mallaïu.

2 to Shégo Sego.

Sego was correctly described according to Mr. Park, and the death of the monarch he first knew spontaneously mentioned, with his warlike disposition, and great power. Mr. Park observes that he found the language of Bambarra a sort of corrupted Mandingo; this confirms the numerals repeated to me as the Bambarra:

_Bambarra._ _Mandingo._

One Killi Killin.

Two Foolla Foola.

Three Sabba Sabba.

Four Nani Nani.

Five Looroo Looloo.

Six Wora Woro.

Seven Worroola Oronglo.

Eight Sagi Sie.

Nine Konunto Konunto.

Ten Ta Tang.

From Sego to Sansanding was called one journey, from Sansanding to Jennë three. Jennë was described as on an island of the Niger, the town considerable, and fortified, and with large houses to pray in. I did not understand that it was subject to Timbuctoo; it certainly has a distinct monarch, who was called Malaï Smaera, and the head Moor, Malaï Bacharoo. From Jennë through Dibbir, at the entrance of which is Sanina, to Kabarra or Kabra, the port of Timbuctoo (half a day’s walk from it) is a voyage of 20 days. By land, it was only 12 journies, through Mashena (Masina) Farrimabbie, Jimballa (the Jinbala of Mr. Park, which they persisted was not on an island of the Niger, but on the northern bank of it) Taäkim, Assoofoo, Zeddaï, Douraï (probably the Downie in Major Rennell’s map) Matarooch, and Makkasoorfoo, probably the Soorka’s, whom Mr. Park mentioned as inhabiting the northern bank of the river between Jinnie and Timbuctoo: he also writes that it is 12 journies by land from Jinnie to Timbuctoo. The horizontal distance from Jennë to Jimballa, on Major Rennell’s map is about 100 B. miles, and thence to Timbuctoo 90 more. Now 12 journies at 18 miles, give but a horizontal distance of 144 B. miles, wherefore, I should think the northern bank of the lake Dibbir, is not so high as it has been hitherto drawn, and the path so distant as not to be deflected by any curve of the lake. Timbuctoo was described as a large city, but inferior to Houssa, and not comparable with Bornoo. The Moorish influence was said to be powerful, but not superior. A small river goes nearly round the town, overflowing in the rains, and obliging the people of the suburbs to move to an eminence in the centre of the town, where the King lives. This is, probably, the smaller river described by Sidi Hamet as close to the town. Leo says, when the Niger rises, the waters flow through certain canals to the city. There were very few muskets to be seen; the King, a Moorish Negro called Billabahada, had a few double barrelled guns, which were only fired at customs, and gunpowder was almost as valuable as gold. The two latter circumstances, besides the name of the river, were all that I recognised in their reports confirming the description given by Adams, which I conceive to be as inadequate as those collected by Mr. Jackson are extravagant.[35] The three last Kings before Billa, were Osamana, Dawoolloo, and Abass. Mr. Jackson says there was a King Woollo reigning in 1800, and a Moor who had come from Timbuctoo to Coomassie ten years ago, did not know King Woollo (Adams’s King) was dead, as he was reigning at the time he left Timbuctoo. Abass probably had a short reign like Saï Apokoo the second. This Moor also said that Woollo’s favourite wife (called by Adams, Fatima) was named Fatooma Allizato. The editor of Adams shews that the name of Fatima, affords in itself no proof that its possessor was Moorish, or even a Mohammedan woman. I think it is probably derived from a numeral, for it answers to five in the numerals of Garangi (a country described to be northwards of Jennë) which are

One Kerriminna.

Two Ferriminna.

Three Sowaninna.

Four Firrima.

Five Fahtima.

Six Tata.

Seven Mannima.

Eight Pirima.

Nine Missirĭma.

Ten Guahee.

Numerals are frequently added to names in Ashantee.

Perhaps the old ms. which I purchased with difficulty from a Jennë Moor, will recompense the translator by a fuller account, but I fear religion only is the subject. It contains thirteen pages, with some marginal notes in a different hand. I should have observed, that, generally speaking, I found the Moors very cautious in their accounts, declining to speak unless they were positive, and frequently referring doubtful points to others whom they knew to be better acquainted with them. I did not succeed in procuring the numerals of Timbuctoo, but the language is different from that of Houssa, as the words opposed to those recollected by Adams will shew:

_Timbuctoo._ _Houssa._

Man Jungo Motoo.

Woman Jumpsa Motee.

Camel So Rakoomee.

Dog Killab Karree.

Cow Fallee Saneä.

House Dah Garree.

Water Boca Looa.

Tree Carna Leeseeä.

Gold Or Jennarreä.

A Moor Seckar Bibay.

From Timbuctoo[36] to Houssa is 20 journies; the three first through a woody country, and over the branch of the Niger to Azibbie, the frontier town. Houssa was said to be the largest city north or south of the Quolla, except Bornoo; the Moorish influence to have been established there beyond memory, and the King’s name Serragkee. Cabi is not the name of the kingdom, but of a large dependent town and district on the Niger. Mallowa, or Marrowa, as the Negroes pronounce it, (for they seemed invariably to substitute _r_ for the _l_ of the Moors, as Quorra for Quolla)[37] is the next extensive in its limits to Bornoo. It is, no doubt, the kingdom of Mellè, misplaced by Leo, and reported to Cadamosto in 1455, as 30 journies beyond Timbuctoo. Major Rennell observes, “we should naturally look for it on the eastward of Timbuctoo,” and it has only been placed south eastward, and south of the Niger, because Edrisi has a city called Malel thereabouts, though he calls the name of the kingdom of which it is the capital Lamlam, which Hartman would reconcile by supposing it to be a transposition of Malel, certainly a forced conjecture.[38] A large town called Mahalaba is the nearest I have found to Malel, to be noticed on the route from Dagwumba to the Niger.[39] In speaking of all fortified cities, the negroes of Mallowa invariably prefixed Berinnë or Brinnë to the name, as an indication that they were so; this was always the case in mentioning Houssa, Cabi, Cassina, Katinna, &c. &c. I shall place the numerals of Cassina, as written by Mr. Lucas after the Shereef Imhammed, to the right of those of Houssa or Mallowa, from their close affinity, perhaps identity; for this language is spoken far eastward, and the Shereef, as we shall presently see, was rather inaccurate in his recollection of the numerals of Bornoo.

One Daia Deiyah.

Two Beeyoo Beeyou.

Three Okoo Okoo.

Four Odoo Foodoo.

Five Beä Beat.

Six Seddah Sheedah.

Seven Becquay Bookai.

Eight Tacquass Takoos.

Nine Tarra Tarrah.

Ten Gwoma Goumah.

Two large lakes were described close to the northward of Houssa, one called Balahar Soudan, and the other Girrigi Marragasee. Calculating the 20 journies from Timbuctoo at 18 miles each, supposing two-thirds to be made good on the horizontal distance (equal to 212 g. miles) and the course N.E., I have placed Houssa, 18° 59′ N. and 3° 59′ E. This agrees pretty well with the account of its being 17 journies from the Niger, or Quolla, which give 306 B. miles, and the horizontal distance 176 g. miles. Houssa has hitherto been laid down about 2 journies N. of the Niger. I have an impression that the city of Houssa will be found to lay about E.N.E. of Timbuctoo, of course nearer the Gambaroo, which runs through its dominions, and thus account for the reports of its being situated upon the Niger. Leo certainly meant Mallowa and the Gambaroo, when he wrote, “Melli regio quæ extendit se ad flumen quoddam quod ex Nilo (i.e. Nigro) effluit trecenta millia passuum,” adding, “regnum opulentissimum, maximè artificum et mercatorum copia, frequentia templa, sacerdotes et populus qui Nigritas omnes civilitate antecedunt;” which they certainly appear to do: see a few of their articles for the British Museum. May not the Maurali of Ptolemy be the Melli of Leo, and the modern Mallowa or Marrowa? his large adjunct to the Niger to the south indicates the two rivers. Major Rennell seems to have expected the present discovery, when he writes (commenting on Mr. Park’s report that Houssa was 30 journies by land from Tombuctoo, and 45 by water) “Possibly it may be that Houssa is situated on a different river from that which passes by Tombuctoo (the Joliba,) but which may be an adjunct of it, and may run into it in the quarter of Tombuctoo.” In Dapper’s translation of the Description De l’Afrique du Flamand, 1686, I find “Cette contreé (Melli) s’etend environ cent lieuës _le long d’un bras_ du Niger.”

Tarrabaleese, 50 journies westward of north, was much spoken of from the number of its market places. This must be Tripoli, the Arabic corruption of which is Trabŏlis. The Moors gave me a route to Tunis or Toonis, but I cannot recognise any name in Major Rennell’s map, (which I could not procure until my return,) unless Sabbai be Sebba, and Mookanassa Mourzouk, in Fezzan. There is also another route eastward which I cannot trace. See Appendix.

From Kabarra the Quolla, continuing its course southward of east, passed by Uzzalin, Googara,[40] Koolmanna, Gauw, Tokogirri, (perhaps the Tokrur of Edrisi and Gatterer) Askeä, Zabirmë, and Cabi to Yaoora, which I imagine to be the Youri of Major Rennell’s map.[41] De Lisle places a kingdom, Yaouree, south of the Niger. It is a very celebrated ferry, occurring in a variety of routes from the north of the Quolla to Ashantee, spoken of always as westward of Cassina, and with little variation as 25 journies from Timbuctoo. Now as the Moors called it one day’s journey from Sego to Sansanding, and Mr. Park made it scarcely more, I will assume this as the rule to calculate the distance from Timbuctoo to Yaooree, and afterwards consider its place according to the routes from Dagwumba, through it, to Cassina. Twenty five journies from Timbuctoo would place Yaoora about 70 miles above the Berrisa in Major Rennell’s map, but this makes the horizontal distance from Yaoora to Dagwumba about 850 B. miles, and therefore too great for 42 journies, the greatest number allowed in the routes from Dagwumba to Yaoora.

I would not presume to investigate after Major Rennell, it would be absurd in me to expect to throw any new interest into the discussion, but by making clear the accounts I collected; to do which I must decline the course of the Niger from Cabi (Mr. Horneman writes it flows southward from Haoussa) even to a junction with the Bahr Kulla. For, placing Yaoora in 13° 30′ N. and 8° 30′ E. in conformity with its distance from Timbuctoo and a declining course to the Kulla, the horizontal distance to Yahndi, the capital of Dagwumba, will be 600 B. miles: now 42 journies, the greatest number allowed by the travellers, at 20 miles each, (rejecting one third, as heretofore, lost in the windings of the path) give the horizontal distance at 560 B. miles. This is certainly an additional argument to the similarity of the names Quolla and Kulla, for the identity of these rivers; but not so strong a one as that the routes both of Moors and Negroes, allow but 40 journies from Dagwumba to the point of crossing the Niger for Houssa. The course to this point was described by the Moors as a little to the eastward of north: now 40 journies on a N.N.E. course, by the former rule, places this ferry 15° 1′ N. and 3° 33′ E. agreeing very well with our previous position of Houssa, and proving that the course of the Niger must decline considerably, for more than two extra journies would otherwise be required for the north eastward route from Dagwumba to Yaoora. Major Rennell only writes that the course of the Niger is _probably_ to Wangara. Mr. Ledyard, in his comparatively minute description of that country, (which I shall notice in the route to Bornoo) says nothing of its bordering on the Niger. Major Rennell, in the construction of the geography of Mr. Horneman’s report, writes, “M. D’Anville also had an idea, and so describes it in his map of Africa, 1749 (possibly from actual information,) that the Niger declined to the south beyond Gana, so that the termination of it in the lake Semegonda was 3½ degrees of latitude to the south of Gana.” There is a kingdom called Kulla as well as a river, and there is also a kingdom Quollaraba: raba being probably no more than an adjunct equal to the prefix dar, and signifying a kingdom. Mr. Dupuis, in his notes on Adams, says of an intelligent Negro, “his account was chiefly curious from his description of a nation which he called Gallo or _Quallo_, which conveyed to me an idea of a people, more advanced in the arts, and wealthier than any that I had previously heard of: within three days journey of the capital was a large lake or river which communicated with the Wed Nile.” The commended arguments of the Quarterly Review, (which I have never had the advantage of reading,) must be in a great degree auxiliary, in arguing, to support the Congo hypothesis, a course of the Niger equally declined with that which I have followed for the identity of the Quolla and Kulla. The junction of the Quolla with the Bahr Abiad, or Nil, as the Moors called it, cannot be more descriptively expressed, according to every account I received, than in the words of Mr. Horneman. “Some days past I spoke to a man who had seen Mr. Brown in Darfoor, he gave me some information respecting the countries he travelled through, and told me that the communication of the Niger with the Nile was not to be doubted, but that this communication before the rainy season was very little.”[42]

We will pursue the course of the Quolla from Yaoora (where I should judge from description it must be about 3 miles wide) before we apply the routes northward of it.[43] One journey eastward of Yaoora, (sometimes called Yawooree by the Negroes,) it passed Nooffie, doubtless the Nyffe of Mr. Horneman and others, and which De Lisle has written Nouffy: 3 journies thence it passed Boussa, which Amadi Fatouma reported, as it was to me also (see Diary) as the place of Mr. Park’s death, but I could hear nothing of the rock and door. Boussa is not in Major Rennell’s map, but I observed Bousa in the map of De Lisle before alluded to; it is probably the Berrisa of Edrisi. Twelve journies thence it passed Atagara, but, previously, Hoomee, and Rakkah.[44] Southward of the latter, they described an inland country called Koofee, possibly Kosie, a country I shall presently introduce, as visited by a mulatto, behind Lagos. Thirty journies from Atagara, it flowed through the kingdom of Quollaraba,[45] which thus falls precisely where Major Rennell has laid down the kingdom of Kulla. Six journies thence it passed Mafeegoodoo, and 13 journies beyond, the lake Cadee or Caudee. This I should consider to be the Cauga of Edrisi, which Major Rennell has identified with the Fittri of Mr. Brown, for into this the second large branch of the Niger, or the river Gambaroo, is said to run; but it is considerably too much to the southward for the Cauga in Major Rennell’s map, being, according to the accounts of the Moors, only 3 journies northward of the Quolla: yet Edrisi writes “besides a river of the name of Nile or Neel _passes by_ Kauga.” What inclines me to think the Cauga may be more distant from Bornoo the capital, though not from the frontier of that kingdom, (15 journies being the number reported to me as well as to Mr. Brown) is, that the Negroes of that city were not so well acquainted with this lake as the Moors. My sketch in the map, of course, represents the sketches and descriptions of the natives. They described the Cadee or Caudee as an immense water, like a small sea, frequently overflowing the neighbouring country, and sometimes so convulsed as to throw up large quantities of fish and other contents; meaning, in short, a volcanic lake. The Moors called it also the Bahr el Noä, having a tradition that the waters of the deluge retired to, and were absorbed in it. A very high mountain was spoken of, at an equal distance between the Caudee and the Quolla.[46] Twelve journies from Caudee, the Quolla received the river Sharee from northward, which, I imagine, if not the Misselad, may be a river deriving its name from the Abu Shareb of Major Rennell’s map. The Quolla was said to pass to the southward of Bagarrimee, (the Baghermee of Mr. Brown.) Kalafarradoo, (I cannot find any name nearer to this than the Courourfa of De Lisle, and Kororfa, said in Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. to be W. of Begarmee). Foör (Darfur, according to Mr. Brown, means the kingdom of Foör) and lastly to skirt Waddaï, the Waddey of Mr. Horneman, who wrote that it was east of Begharmee, and west of Darfoor; but, as it was reported to me east of Darfoor, by every person, and as Mr. Brown did not hear of it to adjust its position, I have placed it so.[47]

The junction with the Nile having taken place, as Mr. Horneman before reported, south of Darfoor, they continued the course to a large country called Soonar,[48] indisputably the kingdom of Sennaar. Hence to Massar,[49] or Egypt, they did not always agree themselves in the various names, nor can I recognise any on the map, unless their Shewa Abenhassa be Bennassa, Minsoor, Misur, Gammeacha, Gammazie; Sooess, Sohaig; Kaheea, Kahoul; Zaragoo, Nayazoogoo; and their Lamabalara, in the country of Egypt, the Bahr be la ma of Mr. Horneman; of the latter there can be no doubt.[50]

My friend, the Shereef Brahima had, as well as some others, been to Mecca and Medina. I place great reliance on this man’s information (invariably confirmed by the Negroes) from his caution and diffidence, and my experience of his character; for he was ultimately a valuable friend to the Mission: he was the only Moor who dared to refuse to be present at human sacrifices. The MS. No. 2. is his writing, and professedly the route from Dagwumba through Bornoo to Massar,[51] it consists of six pages well written. This would have been a valuable man to have engaged to travel through the interior, for he was capable of making circumstantial minutes, and I think he might have been engaged to do so by a moderate Fort pay. The Moors talk much of the King of Santambool,[52] as a powerful monarch and formidable to the Christians.

It will excite surprise that I heard nothing of Wangara,[53] as was the case with Mr. Brown, not even after I had, contrary to my general custom, submitted the name: but I heard very much spontaneously of Oongooroo. Mr. Horneman called Wangara, Ungura, and De Lisle, Ouangara, we shall find it in the route from Yaoora to Bornoo or Barranoo. Bornoo was described to me about north-east from Yaoora, which agrees very well with Major Rennell’s position, established beyond all contradiction short of an observation, but, the horizontal distance, (lowering the place of Yaoora as I have done) thence to Bornoo would be upwards of 1000 B. miles, whereas they described it to be but 51 journies, which allowing 20 miles to each, as the country was said to be much more favourable to travelling, and the path more direct than that we came, would give but an horizontal distance of 680 B. miles. Mr. Horneman heard that Bornu was but 15 journies from Kassina; I was told 33 if walked, 19 if rode. Major Rennell has made the distance about 30 journies, considering the 15 journies applicable to the western boundaries of the empire, and not to the capital.

We will now return to Yahndi and proceed northwards to Houssa. Nineteen journies from Yahndi is Matchaquawdie, six beyond is Goorooma, 10 thence Dolooë, subject to Goorooma, and only five journies from the Quolla, described as about two miles wide there. When Amadi Fatouma mentioned that he passed Gourouma, I should suppose he meant this kingdom of Goorooma, Dolooë, as subject to it, being probably included under that name. I must impress, however, that this northern route from Dagwumba to the Niger, being, with that from Kong to Jennë, the only ones unauthenticated, otherwise than by cross examination, I do not report them with the same confidence, which I do the others. Two journies from the northern bank of the Quolla is Gamhadi, to which three large towns belong, Dogondaghi, Toodonkassalee, and Toompasseä, and numerous dependent crooms. There were three routes from Gamhadi, the first northward to Houssa 15 journies, passing the large river Gambaroo the ninth, between which and Houssa is a district called Zessa. The second route is to Katinnee, a city and state of the Mallowa kingdom, one month from the Quolla. On this route the Gambaroo is crossed the tenth day, and Sowhoondë, Souoola, (perhaps Sala) Quattaraquassee, Doorooma, Soroo, Zabbakou, Dinka, Doochingamza, and Dammisamia were mentioned as large towns on the route. The third route was through the Fillanee country, (doubtless the Fullan[54] of Ben Ali) which had been frequently at war with Mallowa, to the kingdom of Kallaghee, 14 journies from the Quolla, the Gambaroo being passed the tenth. The numerals of Kallaghee are

One Gadee.

Two Sillil.

Three Quan.

Four Foolloo.

Five Vydee.

Six Zoodoo.

Seven Etkassa.

Eight Shiddowka.

Nine Woollaä.

Ten Woma.

A country called Barrabadi was described eastward of Mallowa, between it and Bornoo; its numerals corresponded with those of Bornoo.

We will now return again to Dagwumba, and follow the route thence, over the Quolla, through Yaoora to Bornoo. Gamba we have already described as five journies north eastward of Yahndi, thence two journies, over a high mountain called Yerim, and across a river running southwards (which the Moors called Mory, but which it would seem is the continuation of the Karhala) is Gooroosie, four journies thence Zoogoo, probably the Zeggo of Major Rennell’s map; 10 farther the kingdom of Barragoo. De Lisle has placed his kingdom of Bourgou thereabouts. North-westward of Barragoo is Koomba, the Kombah of Major Rennell’s map. The position of this kingdom is pretty well ascertained, because those who came from it, described Goorooma as its northern neighbour, and Barragoo to be the first kingdom passed through in their journies to the coast below Whydah. Eight journies from Barragoo is Toombeä, three beyond is Goodoobirree. A river running to the Quolla (as it was said, but more probably from it) called Leeäsa, flows close to the eastward of this path, and is crossed, going from Goodoobirree southwards, to a large kingdom called Yariba by the Moors, but Yarba more generally by the natives. Major Rennell has drawn a river communicating with the Niger close to Youri, so has De Lisle. This river Leeäsa is the only one I heard of, answering in the least degree to that of Sidi Hamet, but Wassana was a name unknown. Aquallie is the frontier town of Yariba, one journey from Goodoobirree, and one from Bootee, second only to the capital, Katanga, four journies beyond it. Yariba was described to be about 24 journies, through Hio, (its immediate neighbour) from Arătakassee or Alătakassee, which we shall hereafter recognise in Ardra: this determines its position pretty well.[55] Dahomey was said to be tributary to Yariba, as well as to Hio, which I have an impression is also tributary to Hio. From Hio to Dahomey is seven journies. The military are despotic in Hio, they always intercept the new King on his way to the palace, and demand his naming some neighbouring country for their invasion and plunder, before they confirm him. The King before the present, had named Dahomey, but after three years neglect of the fulfilment, he ordered the army against a northern neighbour. The army went, wasted and pillaged the country, but when within a day’s march of the capital on their return, they sent deputies to enjoin his abdication, as inevitable to a falsehood to them; he was obstinate; they arrived and cut off his head. The numerals of Hio are

One Innee.

Two Eygee.

Three Etta.

Four Ernee.

Five Aroon.

Six Effa.

Seven Eggay.

Eight Eggo.

Nine Essun.

Ten Eywaw.

The Hio man, who gave me the above numerals, spoke of the Apaccas as a more powerful northern neighbour, but I never heard of them from any other person.

Yariba must certainly be the Yarba of Imhammed, though he described it as 18 or 20 journies from Gonjah towards the N.W., for he is likely to have been incorrect in this, because we have proved him to be so, in stating, that Ashantee was the capital of Tonouwah, which appears to be a district or town of Dagwumba, the people of which kingdom are by no means warlike as he represented them, nor have they any notion of taming the elephant: he reported that Calanshee was a dependency of Ashantee, whereas no Ashantee knows the name; that Gonjah was 46 journies from the coast, when it is but 30. Major Rennell reasonably conceived the Yarba of Imhammed to be the Yarra of De Lisle, at the back of Sierra Leone, but as this country is not preserved in his own map, I presume it cannot be of much consequence, politically or commercially, whereas Yariba, indisputably eastward of Kong, is always announced to enquirers, both by Moors and Negroes, as a very powerful, and much frequented kingdom. Another argument is, that all the Moors I saw at Coomassie, were almost ignorant of the countries westward, only speaking of those their enquiries for the source of the Quolla had made known to them: indeed, I did not see one who had travelled westward, or south westward of Bambarra, but our Accra linguist told me that he had recognised a Moor at the Rio Pongos, whom he had seen in Coomassie (when sent there on the eve of the second Ashantee invasion) who told him that he had been two months travelling from Kong, and crossed a very large river. Imhammed’s Affow (if not Taffoo, or the Inta country) I conceive to be Afflou, a town and district of the Krepee or Kerrapay country, and a short walk from the sea by Quitta, westward of Yarba, as he says, but more than eight journies. The Kerrapay country, which is extensive and independent, will be described, in proceeding from Cape Coast Castle, along the coast, eastward.

[Illustration: _London published as the Act directs by John Murray Albemarle Street 4th. Jany. 1819._

_J. Walker Sculpt._]

To return to the route from Yahndi to Yaoora, three journies from Goodoobirree towards the Quolla through Gillimakafoo, Garagaroogee, and Paänghee, is the large city of Kaiama, and four beyond it, through Mahalaba, (the nearest name to the Malel of Edrisi,) Marramoo, and across the small river Wooroo, (running to the Quolla) is the city of Wauwaw,[56] three journies from the Quolla. Ten journies from the northern bank, through Yaoora, and skirting the eastern limits of Zamfara, is Goobirree, so called by the Moors, and Goobur by the Negroes.[57] Mr. Beaufoy learned that Gubur was to the south of Wangara, and De Lisle writes it Goubour. Thence to Kassina, having crossed the large river Gambaroo, is eight journies. Eighteen journies, calculated at 18 miles each on a N.E. course, from the altered position of Yaoora, would place Kassina in 15° 43′ N. and 10° 43′ E., instead of 16° N. and 11° 45′ E. Mr. Lucas learned that Kassina was five journies from the Niger, or about 100 miles from that water, which it is likely to be from the upper branch or the Gambaroo, which river skirting Kanoo, and Oongooroo, (or Wangara,) before it descends to the lake Cadee, (though I could not prove satisfactorily that it did so,) would account for Edrisi’s placing Kano, and Wangara, on the Niger.[58] From Kassina to Dawoorra is six journies: this must be the Daura of Mr. Horneman, though in the drawing of the Marrabut it is placed north of Kano. From Dawoorra to Kanoo is four journies. D’Anville placed it 90 miles to the N.E. of Kassina, and in the drawing just alluded to, it is placed inland northward of the Niger. The only authority for supporting Edrisi’s position of it, is what Mr. Matra was told at Marocco. The Moor who informed Mr. Beaufoy that boats went with the stream to Ghineä, (the Gano or Kano of Major Rennell) placed Jinnie between it and Houssa, so gross an inaccuracy as to justify our doubting him on the other point. The Ginea of Leo more probably meant Jennë, and he seems to write of that navigation as a distinct one from that to Melli eastward.[59] From Kanoo, through the large towns Madagee and Adagia, to Oongooroo is nine journies, but seven on a joma or camel, “Est iter octo dierum versus orientem” (Edrisi.) From Oongooroo to Barranoo is 15 journies on foot according to the Moors, nine on horseback according to the Negroes, by route No. 12. Bornoo or Barranoo was spoken of as the first empire in Africa,[60] the King’s name, according to the Moors, was Baba Alloo, but the Negroes called him Massinnama.[61] Kassina, and the intermediate countries on the route, were subject to him with many others. One district belonging to Bornoo was named Panaroo, and the vassal King or governor of it, Yandee Kooma. A small river, called Gaboöa[62] by the Negroes, ran southwards near Bornoo, and six journies eastward from it, close to Aweeac, a large one Zerrookoo Keroboobee. Mr. Horneman writes, the Wad el Gazel is not a river, but a large and fertile valley. The Negroes of Bornoo were well acquainted with Baghermee. Imhammed’s recollection of the numerals of Bornoo must have been very imperfect, for I have written them at least half a dozen times, both from Moorish and Negro inhabitants, and my spelling agreed with that of another person present. They are

_Imhammed’s._

One Leskar Lakkah.

Two Ahndee Endee.

Three Yaskar Nieskoo.

Four Deegah Dekoo.

Five Oöogoo Okoo.

Six Araskoo Araskoo.

Seven Tooloor Naskoo.

Eight Woskoo Tallóre.

Nine Likkar L’ilkar.

Ten Meeägoo Meikoo.

Ben Ali said the language of the common people of Bornoo had a strong resemblance to that of the neighbouring Negroes. Mr. Lucas writes that no less than 30 languages are spoken in these dominions. The following are the numerals of Maïha, one month to the north-eastward, subject to Bornoo, and the King’s name Smaï Doonama.

One Lagen.

Two Indë.

Three Eäska.

Four Daäger.

Five Ohoo.

Six Araska.

Seven Tooloor.

Eight Weska.

Nine Likar.

Ten Inagoon.

The Negroes called Kanem, Kandem; were well acquainted with Doomboo, and spoke much of the kingdom of Asben.

We will now return to Cape Coast Castle, and seek the best descriptive authorities, in aid of the observations which have been made by the Commissioners and others, for the maritime geography from the river Assinee to Lagos.

The latitude and longitude of Cape Coast (called by the natives Igwa, and in the Affettoo district) according to Messrs. Ludlam and Dawes, the Government Commissioners who surveyed the coast in 1810, is 5° 6′ N. and 1° 51′ W. Elmina, the native name of which is Addĭna, is about seven miles to windward of Cape Coast. Twelve miles from Elmina is Commenda, an English fort, the town is called by the natives Akatayki, the Dutch fort was destroyed in the American war. Nine miles thence is Chama, or Assĕma, at the mouth of the Boosempra. Six hours pull up the river, is an island, where Attobra, one of the Warsaw caboceers, who supplies the Dutch with canoes, is building a large house to retire to; four hours above which is his croom. Colonel Starrenberg was pulled three days up the river in a canoe; his progress was much impeded by rocks, and at length arrested by a large cataract, which, being considered a powerful fetish by the natives, the canoe-men dared not to approach. Nine miles from Chama, where the Dutch have a fort called Sebastian, is Succondee, the first town in the Ahanta country. The English fort was destroyed by the French in the American war, but there is a settlement house. The Dutch fort is called Orange. Four miles from Succondee is Taccorary, and a Dutch fort. Nine miles beyond is Boutrie where the Dutch have a fort, formerly belonging to the Brandenburgh Company. Three miles from Boutrie is Dix-Cove, or Nfooma, and in the interval Boossooä, the capital of Ahanta, which is divided into three districts, Amanfoo, Adoom, and Poho. The first is about one journey (through Geämma) behind Boossooa, and one from the river Ancobra, the caboceer is of the next consequence to the King, whose power and means are extremely limited. The two latter districts are not more than half a journey behind Taccorary. The small river running into the sea at Boutrie, rises in the Adoom district, which is said to abound in gold, but the pits have not been worked for many years, from their fear of the Warsaws. Amanfee also abounds in very fine gold, which is generally found in quartz, and is ground upon stones arranged under large sheds for the purpose. In a respectable periodical publication of the last year, I observe, the King of Ashantee called King of Ahanta, Inta, or Ashantee; this is one of the many proofs of the indiscriminate ideas of that monarch before the Mission. Eighteen miles from Dix-Cove passing Achooma and Accoda, (where the Dutch have a fort, and which is close to Cape Three Points) are the ruins of Hollandia, formerly belonging to the Brandenburgh Company, and called Fort Royal Fredericksburg. Sixteen miles farther is Axim, where the Dutch fort Anthony, their Vice Presidency, is situated. The people of Axim speak a dialect of the Ahanta. About two miles westward is the mouth of the Ancobra, so called by the Portuguese from its windings, the native name is Seënna. Col. Starrenberg, who went up the river as far as the ruins of Elisa Carthago, the extreme navigable point, for any but a very small canoe, says, he cannot form any accurate idea of the distance, but supposes it was about 20 Dutch miles and the course N.E. Meredith says 50 English: he was very careless and incorrect in writing, “the French built a fort on the right bank of this river, and at about 50 miles from its mouth; where they had a great gold trade, that soon excited the jealousy of the Dutch, who expelled them. The Dutch however did not long enjoy this acquisition, for the chief got embroiled with the natives, and betook himself to the desperate remedy of blowing up the fort.” Elisa Carthago was built by the Dutch governor Ruighaven, who died, as appears by his tomb stone at Elmina, before 1700. The French never had any but a small factory, almost at the mouth of the river, and the Dutch officer in charge of Elisa Carthago had enjoyed a good trade many years before the cupidity of the natives reduced him to the act of despair, related by Bosman, and still recorded by the natives, who narrated it to Col. Starrenberg. The following is from the Latin translation of Dr. Reynhaut: “The chief of Elisa Carthago being at variance with the natives, who invested the fort, and finding he could not resist them any longer” (for as the story goes, he had been reduced to fire pieces of rock gold from the want of bullets) “feigned to treat with them, and invited them for that purpose into the hall of the fort, under which he had placed several barrels of gunpowder, and a small boy with a match, ordering him to apply it directly he stamped his foot on the floor of the hall above. This he did, after reproaching the natives with their cupidity, and they were all blown up together. One of the servants of the fort had just before contrived to effect his escape with most of the papers.” In navigating from the mouth of the Ancobra or Seënna to Elisa Carthago, the following towns, on the banks, are passed, Boasso, Tarbo, Marmeresse, Ejujan, Tetchbrouw, Gura, Barnesoe, Uromanio, Afamkan, and Aduwa. Gura is a small state, the people of which speak the same language as those of Axim. From Aduwa there are three grand roads, one to the Aowin country, one to the Dankara, and one to Asankarie, a considerable town in Warsaw. From Aduwa to Dankara numerous small crooms are passed through, and the first large one of the latter country is Kenkoomabaraso, only three journies from Coomassie. The people of Dankara come to Axim to trade. From Aduwa to Aowin the first considerable town is Taqua. The Warsaw country is governed by four caboceers, independent of each other, of whose relation and power, the best idea I can give, is by comparing it with that of the tyrants Geron and Theron, who ruled at the same time in Sicily. Intiffa, the richest caboceer, and whose power extends the farthest, resides at Abbradie, one short journey from Elmina. Cudjo Miensa (Miensa is the numeral three) is his principal counsellor, and will succeed him. Nerbehin was formerly the residence of Quashee Jacon, another independent caboceer, but of Intiffa’s family; he was driven from thence by Esson Cudjo, who now rules there: he fled to Samcow (situated about one day’s journey on the frontier of Warsaw, behind Succondee) of which Musoe, a slave of his, has raised himself to be the caboceer, and now protects his master until Esson Cudjoe’s death. Attobra, another independent caboceer, lives at Dabroādie, on the Boosempra. The greatest breadth of the Warsaw country is supposed to be 60 B. miles, and the greatest length 100 or 120. About 28 miles from the Ancobra, begins the kingdom of Amanaheä, in which the English fort Apollonia is situated: it extends about 100 miles along the coast, but not more than 20 in-land. The various numerals of the coast will be submitted in an essay on the Fantee language.

Barely four miles eastward of Cape Coast is Moree, and the Dutch fort Nassau. Six miles from Moree is Annamaboe, the most complete fortification in the country; five miles thence Cormantine, the first fort possessed by the English, and built by them about the middle of the seventeenth century. It was taken afterwards by the Dutch, and being stormed, was almost destroyed by the Ashantee army, before it attacked Annamaboe: the position is very commanding. Tantumquerry, a small English fort, is about 18 miles from Cormantine, (crossing the small river Amissa, an hour’s walk in-land from which is Mankasim, the capital of the Braffoe district of Fantee) the natives call the town Tuam. Eight miles from Tantum is the town of Apam, where is a Dutch fort and a small river. Eight miles from Apam is Simpah or Winnebah. The people of Simpah are Fantees, but their language is called Affoottoo. They are in the district of Agoona. About nine miles from Simpah is the Dutch fort Berracoe, the natives call the town Seniah. Attah of Akim laid a contribution on this fort in March 1811. About 27 miles from Berracoe is Accra, or Inkran, once subject to Aquamboo, which people, according to Isert, formerly drove them to Popo. Meredith fully describes Accra and the environs, but he does not mention that according to the natives the Portuguese settled here first, (Isert writes in 1452) and exercising the greatest cruelties and enormities, were extirpated by the Accras (their town was then situated a little behind the present), who executed the governor and his countrymen, on a spot whence they still take the earth to rub a new born child, in commemoration of the event. Accra, according to the observations of the Commissioners, is in 5° 20′ N. and 10′ W. Mr. Meredith, after quoting this observation, placed it in his outline of the coast in 58′ E. Between two and three miles from the English fort, is Christiansburg Castle, the Danish head-quarters.

We will follow[63] Isert in his route from Accra to the Volta, as he travelled it several times. “Two miles from Christiansburg is Labbodee, where there was formerly a fort: this is the residence of the grand fetish, and the Bishop. Two miles to Pessin, two to Temmen, where the Dutch had a small fort, abandoned in 1781, two (leaving Nimboe a little in the bush) to Ponee, a deserted Dutch fort, now a Dutch factory; two miles thence (crossing a brakke streek or low land, up to the shoulders in the rains, and 300 fathoms broad, sometimes called Ponee river) are great and small Pram Pram, where the English have a small fort or fortified factory. Two long miles thence is Friedensbourg fort at Ningo, the people of which speak a different language called Adampee, (the name given to their country,) a mixture of Ashantee, Kerrapee, and Accra; it is a republic.” Behind Adampee is the Crobo mountain, the people of which, though but a few hundreds, have hitherto baffled the Ashantees, by leaving their croom at the bottom of the mountain, which is of great height, rugged, accessible but by one narrow path, and with springs of water on the top, whence they roll down upon their enemies, the large stones and fragments of rock which abound. “From Adampee I went in one day to Addah, 12 miles. Two and a half from Ningo is a croom called Laï, the inhabitants of which have removed, some to Addah, some to Ningo: the English had a factory here, long gone to ruin. One mile west of the Volta, there was formerly a croom called Foutchi.” Reckoning four English miles to one Danish or Dutch, Addah would be 96 miles from Christiansburg, but Meredith makes it but 67, therefore we will take the medium and call it 87. From the Volta to Cape St. Paul’s is five leagues by sea, according to Dalzel, and 15 miles by land, according to Norris’s map of Dahomey and its environs. Quitta, about 12 miles from it (according to Norris) by the observation made in H.M.S. Argo in 1802, is in 5° 45′ N. and 1° 29′ 30″ E. by chronometer. Accra lies, according to the Commissioners, in 10′ W. Taking the medium between Isert and Meredith, Christiansburg Castle, about three miles eastward of the English fort, is 87 from Addah, but as that place is six miles from the mouth of the Volta, we will call it 81: allowing one mile for the breadth of the river and 18 miles for the difference of longitude between it and Quitta, (according to Norris,) the distance from English Accra to Quitta will be 103 B. miles, which being equal to 89 geographical miles, place Quitta in 1° 19′ E. instead of 1° 29′ 30″ as by the observation of the Argo, and that supposing the whole distance to be made good horizontally, which is impossible. Wherefore I should think Isert, who had travelled it, was more likely to be correct in making the distance from Christiansburg to Addah 96 miles, than Meredith in calling it 67.

Norris’s observation, placing Cape St. Paul’s in 5° 52′ N., I conceive to be incorrect, as that of the Argo must be preferred, which places Quitta in 5° 42′ N., instead of 6° 2′ N., as in Norris’s map. This should not have escaped Mr. Dalzel’s notice in the “New Sailing Directions,” where both observations are cited in the same page, without any remark on the inconsistency, for Quitta and not St. Paul’s, is thus made the Cape or western limit of the Bight, the eastern side of which is called the Bight of Benin, I regret, amongst other disadvantages, that of not having the opportunity to consult the chart of Mr. Demayne (the master of H.M.S. Amelia) which is said to be more accurate than any other.[64]

Quitta is included in an independent state of Kerrapay, called Agwoona, which extends thence along the coast to the Volta; the towns from that river to Quitta are Attoko, Terrobee, Footee, Agwoona, Whiëe, and Tegbay. Agwoona lays half a mile from the shore, and about 15 miles from the Volta. The inhabitants of all the other towns are obliged by the law to bury their dead in Agwoona, the capital; the caboceer of which is supreme over the others, but not absolute. Between Quitta and Popo, lay the Kerrapay towns Egbiffeemee, to which several of the Quittas have retired, Edjenowah, Oöogloobooë, and Afflou or Afflahoo, a little way from the beach. These towns are governed by caboceers, independent of each other, as well as of Agwoona; and in the last a mixture of Adampë and Kerrapay is spoken, accounted for by the emigration of a large body of the former people. Another independent state of Kerrapay is Tettaytokoo, 2 journies behind Popo; the King is said to be despotic, and the capital composed of circular houses. There is also another smaller interior state, governed by a caboceer called Quaminagah. Tadoo, however, is allowed to be the largest kingdom of Kerrapay, 6 journies behind Popo, (which the Fantees call Inshan, but the natives Taun or Taum) described as a large town; and the Accra language is spoken there as well as the Kerrapay, in consequence of the temporary emigration of the former people in 1680. The Kerrapay numerals are

One Eddee.

Two Effee.

Three Eltong.

Four Ennay.

Five Altong.

Six Adday.

Seven Adrinnee.

Eight Ennee.

Nine Indee.

Ten Owoo.

The Negroes of this country are of a much more daring and desperate character than their neighbours, and were always the most severely treated in the slave ships. Mr. Meredith, who writes it Crepee, placed it west of the Volta.

Whydah, according to an observation of the Argo, is 6° 14′ N. 2° 31′ E. I do not recollect Dalzel to have mentioned that Anotto is produced in the neighbourhood of Whydah. I am not certain whether it is by the Bixa orellana; but the shrub at Whydah may be classed under Polyandria Monogynia. Lambe made it 200 miles from Whydah beach to Abomey; Norris 112, Dalzel 96. By Mr. Norris’s own account of his journey, not more than 20 hours were occupied in travelling, which at 4 miles an hour, the greatest pace which I think the hammock men can average, would make the distance 80 miles. An officer in this service went to Dahomey, without hurrying, in 3 days; and considers a dispatch would reach it in 2: he thinks it can scarcely be 70 miles; but calling it 80 as above, and supposing 54, two thirds, to be the horizontal distance made good, equal to almost 47 G. miles, Abomey would lay in 7° 12′ N. Yet Mr. Dalzel writes it lays in about 7° 59′ N.: Whydah being in about 6° 25′ in the map affixed to his history; this requires 108 B. miles to be made good on the horizontal distance, whereas he calls that of the whole journey but 96, and Mr. Norris, who drew the map, 112. The public were certainly indebted to Mr. Dalzel for the History of Dahomey, but it was his duty, as an intelligent and considerate man, to correct such an error as this; and if the author of the preface had reflected, he would not have written, “The map, is that of Mr. Norris, with a few additions, which for the places on the coast, and the position of Abomey, is near enough to the truth.” Mr. Dalzel should have corrected a greater error in this map, the course of the Lagos river, for altering which I shall presently quote his own authority in addition to others.

An officer in this service, who resided at Lagos three years, and is the only European resident who has survived of those who have made the attempt, enables me to correct the following errors. The Pelican bank is much smaller than it appears on the charts; the Doo island (which lays N.W. and not N. of Lagos town) where the natives go to make fetish, is not more than one mile in circumference; and there is no river of that name. The beach over which the Portuguese and French (who never cross the bar, where there are 3 fathoms water) transport their goods to the canoes, is not more than 100 yards wide, instead of one mile. In Norris’s map prefixed to Dalzel’s History, the Lagos river is made to cross the path to Dahomey near Torë. In the Sailing Directions for the Coast of Africa, to which Mr. Dalzel was the chief contributor, and who revised the work, we find, “River Lagos is the mouth not only of the river of that name, which runs to the _eastward from Ardrah_,” &c. and the river Mr. Norris crossed near Torë, which he calls pretty deep and rapid, but with a bridge over it, is by the account of other gentlemen, officers in this service, who have been to Dahomey, no more than a marsh. The gentleman before mentioned to have resided three years in Lagos, informs me the grand branch of that river flows from the northward of the island, where the pretended river Doo is placed, he found it so wide on entering it, that being in the middle, where there are 10 fathoms water, he could scarcely see the land on either side. The current is impetuous, and floating islands, and large masses of alluvial matter come down with such force, in the rainy season, as to trip vessels from their anchors in the English road. De Lisle makes the Lagos river flowing from the N., and the French are allowed to be much better acquainted with this part of the coast. That called the West river in Norris’s map, is only a creek; and what he calls the Lagos river, and draws running close to Bădaggry, Ardrah, and passing Torë, is the Western river. Bădaggry is not more than 5 or 7 miles from the beach, instead of 15, and the tide only ebbs and flows so far. Ardrah is from 25 to 30 miles from the beach, instead of 18; and the river is crossed at about one-third of the distance from the sea: this is what we call Porto Novo, for there is not more than beachmen’s huts on the shore opposite the anchorage. The natives call Ardrah Aratakassee, or Allatakassee, and the country Essaäm, or the great. The river continues its course not more than 100 yards from the sea, at Whydah, and proceeds equally close (indeed frequently the ridge between them is covered with water) until passing Quitta, it falls into the Volta near the mouth.

The above mentioned gentleman proves the informant of Adams’s editor incorrect, in stating that the Houssa traders were constantly to be met with at Lagos, previous to the abolition of the slave trade, for it has always been the policy of Kosie, a kingdom on the eastern bank of the river, and about 60 miles inland from the mouth, to prevent all intercourse between the traders of the interior, and those of Lagos, to secure to themselves the exorbitant profits they made as the brokers or medium. The Europeans who traded at Lagos, once meditated forcing a passage up the river in armed boats, and a vessel of 18 guns was got over the bar, and anchored close to Lagos town; but the project was abandoned as too perilous. Sometime afterwards the King of Kosie desired a European might visit him, to gratify his curiosity, and that of his people; but no one being willing, a mulatto, named Peter Brown, was dressed up and sent. This man, being now at Cape Coast, I have questioned. Several armed men were sent to conduct him, and relays of canoe men sufficient to continue brisk pulling; which they did from the evening till the next day, before he left the river to proceed by land; it was still very wide, and more than 4 fathoms deep; considerably, for aught he knew, for the bamboo poles of that length, with which the natives push the canoe forward, when they get close enough to the banks to do so, would not touch the bottom in the middle. Relays of hammock men then carried him at a brisk pace until evening, when he reached Kosie, which he described as a town of great extent, and the buildings to resemble those in the drawings of Coomassie. The King gave orders that the crowd should not intrude themselves into his house, treated him very handsomely, and dismissed him after three days. He only heard the people of Kosie speak of two great nations, the Hios, and the Awissees.

The gentleman before mentioned has an impression, from all the enquiries he recollects to have made, of the slaves of the interior, that the merchants convey them by water the greater part of the way; and their reports were strengthened by his having an opportunity of seeing canoes brought from Kosie to Lagos, and purchased from the slave merchants of the interior. They were very superior in size and convenience to those of the coast, were covered in, with a distinct apartment for the trader and his wives, and would hold a hundred slaves. I never heard any slaves speak of being brought any part of the way by water, but I have not seen any who were brought to Kosie or Lagos.

The Karhala is the only large river likely to communicate with, or to form that of Lagos; possibly the Karhala might run to the large lake in Hio, which Snelgrave says (from the information of the Portuguese mulatto he found at Abomey) “is the fountain of several large rivers which empty themselves into the Bay of Guinea.” The Lagos river may flow from this lake, but this is mere conjecture. The gentleman to whom I am indebted, places the Mahees north of Dahomey, instead of north-west as in Norris’s map, which is allowed to be far from discriminate in the interior parts, in the preface to Dalzel’s History, and this is also more probable, because about nine years ago, the King of Hio entirely conquered the Mahees, and upwards of 20,000 of them were brought for sale to Lagos.

The Joös, inconsiderately reported to Adams’s editor as being, with the Anagoos and Mahees, the principal nations on the journey to the Niger, and nearer to the coast, avoiding Dahomey, are probably the Jaboos, who are about 40 miles westward of Kosie, and not behind Cradoo, as in Norris’s map. They are celebrated for the cloths of their name, of which the Portuguese have shipped such large quantities. The Anagoos, or Nagoos, are the north westward neighbours of Dahomey.

The extent of Fantee is corrected from the conjectural enlargement of it by Mr. Meredith, and, with that of Ashantee, Akim, Assin, Warsaw, Ahanta, &c. &c. is sufficiently distinct in the present map. A more enlarged, and particular map of Fantee, &c. would not be interesting to the public, but as it might be desirable to geographers, I shall keep it in view as a duty, and, at some future time, endeavor to add to the observations of latitude and longitude which have been already made on the coast.

I may not conclude without acknowledging the guidance, and assistance, which Major Rennell’s previous investigations have afforded me; without impressing, that had not some sketches of the interior been collected by the industry of the emissaries of the African Association, and afterwards connected and formed into a general outline, blended with the feeble lights of the ancients, my enquiries would neither have been excited or directed; and this present small contribution to our slender knowledge would have perished an embryo. When I reflect on the creative researches of the genius of D’Anville, and the acumen and erudition of Major Rennell, it is my greatest anxiety to make my deference in investigation, as manifest as the public duty which exacted the involuntary presumption; and I cannot conclude more appropriately, than by addressing the latter in the expressive lines of Virgil:

“Nec calamis solum æquiparas sed voce magistrum

Fortunate—tu nunc eris alter ab illo.

Nos tamen hæc quocunque modo tibi nostra vicissim

Dicemus.”

[Footnote 15: “On the west of Aquamboe lies the powerful state of Akim, sometimes denominated Akam, Achem, and Accany, which occupies almost all the interior of the Gold Coast, and is supposed by the natives to extend to Barbary. The Accanese are represented as carrying on an extensive commerce with the interior kingdoms of Africa, particularly Tonouwah, Gago, and Meczara, by which Mourzouk the capital of Fezzan seems to be intended.”]

[Footnote 16: “Reize van Koppenhagen naar Guinea, &c. Door den Heer Isert. Amsteldam, 1797. Naar het Hoog Duitsch.”]

[Footnote 17: This induced me to think that In-ta and Ta-pah, as well as Assiantee might mean the same place, as we find of Mahee, Yahon, &c.—Dalzel.]

[Footnote 18: “In the province of St. Jago, in Chili, there is a plant of this class and order (Didynamiæ gymnosperma) supposed to be a species of wild basil (Ocimum salinum), resembling the common basil so much as to be hardly distinguished from it, except that the flower stem is round and jointed, and its scent and taste not like the basil, but rather like the sea flag, or some marine plant. It is an annual, shooting forth in the spring, and continuing till the commencement of winter: every morning it is covered with hard and shining saline globules, resembling dew, which the countrymen shake off the leaves to serve them as common salt, and in some respects is thought to be of a superior quality. Every plant produces daily about half an ounce of this salt; but Molina, a scientific naturalist, to whom we are indebted for this information, says, that it is extremely difficult to account for this phenomenon, as the situation where he found these plants was in the most fertile part of the kingdom, and at a distance from the sea of more than seventy miles. When we see some plants secrete flint, separate and distinct from their fibres, as well as combined with their organic structure; and when we also know that plants secrete alkali, in every situation, I cannot perceive why Molina should consider the contiguity of the sea to be essential to the production of a neutral salt in the Ocimum salinum.” Linnæan System, London, 1816, vol. ii. p. 303.

Riley, whose narrative has recently appeared, saw in the desert, “A dwarf thorn bush from two to five feet high with succulent leaves strongly impregnated with salt.”]

[Footnote 19: In the Dutch copies of the old Portuguese charts, Xabunda (perhaps Banda) is placed as the capital of Ashantee, and two or three large Portuguese towns, one St. Lawrence, with several convents and crosses between it and the Coast.]

[Footnote 20: Gago oppidum amplissimum nullis quoque cingitur muris, distat a Tumbuto meridiem versus quadringentes fere passuum millibus, inclinatusque fere ad Euroaustrum. Leo Af.]

[Footnote 21: “To what degree the natives of Silla would have contradicted each other in their accounts of Tombuctoo, Park’s short stay there could not have allowed him time to ascertain, even if his knowledge of their language had enabled him to understand their accounts as well as he did those of the slatees on the Gambia.

“Several instances of the contradictory testimony of the Negroes occur in Park’s travels, Jennië, for instance, is stated in his first Mission to be situated on the Niger, but on his second journey he renounces that opinion, on the apparently good authority of an old Somonie (canoe man) who had been seven times at Tombuctoo.” Adams’s Editor.]

[Footnote 22: Mr. Hutchison writes, that from Inta to Jennë is said to be 41 journies. This Gentleman, the Resident at Coomassie, merely accompanied the Mission to act in that capacity in case the object could be accomplished, and was not instructed to report: the officer conducting the Mission being responsible to the extent of his industry, and the opportunities, for the various desiderata, excepting the Botanical and Medical, which were expected from the Surgeon, Mr. Tedlie. Mr. Hutchison’s time was much employed in making duplicates and copies of the frequent and voluminous dispatches to head quarters. The Moors disliking even a second European to be present at their geographical communications, Mr. Hutchison, through his obliging disposition, which accommodated itself to every thing auxiliary to the pursuits of the Mission, rendered me a great service, and quieted the uneasiness of the Moors by keeping watch, and diverting the various Ashantee visitors who would have intruded, with great patience and address. There was no time even for a communication of the data I had collected before the Mission left Coomassie, for we may be said to have lived in public the latter part of the four months, and Mr. Hutchison’s genius inclining more to the cultivation of the Ashantee and Arabic languages, which I had no doubt would yield to his great industry, I did not intrude less congenial pursuits on his attention, (the desiderata having been amply realized,) but merely requested he would let me know what any intelligent Moor, arriving after my departure, might say of the Interior, and, if possible, procure a chart from him, especially if he was not a native of Houssa or Bornoo, which two of the Moors who had drawn for me were. After I had finished my Geographical Report, Mr. Hutchison sent, with some other interesting particulars, added as notes with his initials, a chart drawn by a Jennë Moor just arrived, confirming all I had collected in the most satisfactory manner. The names of the countries from the source of the Niger to Egypt were written in Arabic, with Mr. Hutchison’s expression of the pronunciation in English opposite. I particularly recollect that his ear differed somewhat from mine, which accounts for the trifling differences in our spelling. I shewed Mr. Hutchison my charts as curiosities, but he took no minutes of the names, uninteresting from his never having had an opportunity of reading Major Rennell’s Dissertations, which would alone make them so to any one. He gives a better proof of this, than my own impression, by the following extract from his letter to me, accompanying the chart: “The Bornoo you used to talk about, you will find the same as the lake Chaudi, or Al Bahare Noohoo, or else you know a country I I do not recollect hearing of;” but, in the postscript, he writes, “On looking over my memoranda, I find Bornoo is the principal monarchy the Arabs alone stand in awe of, and one of the four kingdoms best known on the Quolla.” Mr. Hutchison _unconsciously_ confirming what I had learned, is even more satisfactory than if I had left him any basis for his enquiries; indeed, his own object, the acquirement of the language, was too important to be interrupted unnecessarily. Before I attach any quotation from this Gentleman’s letters, I must acknowledge the assistance I had previously derived from his spirited zeal as an officer, as well as that which has since resulted from his interest in intellectual pursuits.]

[Footnote 23: The Moors particularly mentioned buying their writing paper there. One told me that the Joliba ran to a river called Hotaiba after it passed Yahoodee, which river ran towards Toonis. Several talked of vessels coming to Yahoodee, navigated by white men, but whence I could not learn, and Brahima had never visited it, though such reports were familiar to him.]

[Footnote 24: The rivers Arauca and Capanaparo in Cumana form bifurcations similar to those of the Niger. The Arauca divides itself into two rivers, the northern one, the Arauquito, runs through the lake Cabullarito into the Orinoco, and the southern retaining the name of Arauca, also flows to the Orinoco. The Capanaparo falls into the Orinoco in two streams, the northern retaining the original name, and the southern acquiring that of Mina. See Humboldt’s map of the eastern part of the province of Verina.]

[Footnote 25: See note, p. 189.]

[Footnote 26: “No one who compares the maps of De Lisle and D’Anville with the materials then published, can doubt the excellent means of information with which they must have been supplied both by government, and by private individuals.” Murray.

We find a remarkable instance of De Lisle’s accuracy in Major Rennell’s construction of the geography of Mr. Horneman’s expedition. “Mr. Horneman was informed that there are 101 inhabited places in Fezzan.” It is remarkable that this is precisely the number stated in M. Delisle’s map of Africa, drawn in 1707; and, according to Mr. Beaufoy’s informant, there are nearly 100.

I have since found an older authority for the name _Gambaroo_, and which also shews that the name _Quolla_ and its connection with the Gambaroo, have not been wholly unknown hitherto. It is in the L’Afrique de Marmol, livre viii. chap. 3. “C’est une chose estrange que ce fleuve venant de si loin, car Ptolomée le fait venir du lac _Quélonide_, et de celui de Nuba, il n’entraine pas tant d’eaux par ce costé-là, et la marée ne monte pas si avant, _que par l’autre bras que l’on appelle Gamber_.” One may almost fancy Quolla and Quellonide to have been derived from the Chalonides of Ptolemy.]

[Footnote 27: “The fact of a large lake like the Dibbie, discharging its waters by two streams flowing from distant parts of the lake, and re- uniting after a separate course of a hundred miles in length, has always appeared to us extremely apocryphal, at least we believe that the geography of the world does not afford a parallel case.” Adams’s Editor.]

[Footnote 28: “According to these statements of the Moorish traders, Adams would seem to have mistaken the course of the stream at Tombuctoo. In fact, I do not recollect that he told me at Mogadore that it flowed in a westerly direction: but, I think, I am correct in saying, that he discovered some uncertainty in speaking upon this subject, (and almost upon this subject alone) observing, in answer to my inquiries, that he had not taken very particular notice, and that the river was steady, without any appearance of a strong current.” Dupuis on Adams.

Adams’s name, La-mar-Zarah (for of course he did not attach _La_ mar to indicate water, but pronounced La-mar-Zarah, as an integral name) seems accounted for by his confounding or connecting the Arabic name of the river, _Lahamar_, with the Negro name _Yça_ (for we find these names in Marmol, tom. 3. liv. 8.) making _Lahamar-yça_, La-mar-Zarah.]

[Footnote 29: Les Sénégurs le nomment Sénédec, les Jalofes Dengueh, les Turcorons qui sont plus au-dedans du pays Maye, les Saragoles qui sont plus haut Colle, et en un contrée plus vers l’orient Zimbale: au royaume de Tombut on le nomme Yça. Marmol, tom. 3, livre 8. The name Zimbale must be derived from Jimballa, by which country the river passes; it occurs in the route from Shégo to Timbuctoo. P. 194.]

[Footnote 30: Kulla, in the Mallowa, if not in the Kassina language, means _child_; perhaps, allegory being the character of African language, the southern river may be called Quolla or Kulla, from being a _branch_ only of the great river which forms it and the Gambaroo.]

[Footnote 31: See the account of the large interior river known at Gaboon, under the name of _Wole_ or _Wolela_.]

[Footnote 32: “There is one thing that disagrees with Mr. Park’s account, they call the Niger Quolla at Jennë, Sansanding, &c. &c. and describe the Jolliba as falling into the Quolla east of Timbuctoo.” W. H.

The Moors invariably reported to me that it ran from it. Mr. H. might perhaps have misunderstood the Jennë Moor, whose single authority cannot be opposed to the concurrence of several.]

[Footnote 33: Illorum verò qui per interiorem Æthiopiam fluant, quique fontes et ostia in continente habent maximi sunt Gir et Nigir. (Lib. 2. E. 1. De maximis _fluminibus_.)]

[Footnote 34: The Jennë Moor does not appear to have been so particularly acquainted with the source of the Niger. He has drawn two hills, from one of which springs a large river he could not name, running westward, the other is the source of the Quolla, and Mr. Hutchison has written its name Bieteerilmiloo. Between this source and Mala, the King of which he describes as a great monarch, he mentions no towns or kingdoms. This Mala is the Malay of the Moorish charts I procured, between the source and which five places or countries were written. Mr. Hutchison writes the course thus, without time or distance, Mala, Bambarra, Shego, Sansanding, Jena, Mashina, Dahleä (a small croom on the lake Dibber,) Kabarra: he adds, cannibals are close to the Joliba, and 30 journies from Timbuctoo, they eat their prisoners: the dead of their own people are put in the Joliba, in wooden coffins.]

[Footnote 35: The following sentence in the description of Leo, conveys an idea of the decline or decay of the city. “Cujus domus omnes in tuguriola cretacea stramineis tectis _sunt mutatæ_.” Yet immediately after we receive the contrary impression on reading “Visitur tamen elegantissimum quoddam templum cujus murus ex lapidibus atque calce vivo est fabricatus: deinde et palacium quoddam regium quodam Granato viro artificissimo conditum. Frequentissimæ hic sunt artificum mercatorum præcipuè autem telæ atque gossypii textorum officinæ; huc mercatores Barbari pannum ex Europa adferunt.” In the Description de l’Afrique en Flamand, published about a century and a half afterwards, the author seems to be aware of the advanced decline or decay of Timbuctoo. “Les maisons étoient autrefois fort sumptueuses, mais elles ne sont maintenant que de bois enduites de terre grasse et couvertes de paille.”]

[Footnote 36: “All the country from where the Joliba discharges itself into the Quolla is subject to the Sultan Malisimiel. What makes the Sultan of Timbuctoo so much talked of, is his being near the water side; but his master, the Sultan of Malisimiel considers him merely as a deputy or governor. The four greatest monarchs known on the banks of the Quolla, are Baharnoo, Santambool, Malisimiel, and Malla.” W. H. Malla is Mallowa.]

[Footnote 37: “The Chaymas substitute _r_ for _l_, a substitution that arises from a defect of pronunciation, common in every zone. The substitution of _r_ for _l_ characterizes, for example, the Bashmouric dialect of the Coptic language. It is thus that the Caribbees of the Oroonoko have been transformed into Galibi, in French Guiana, by confounding _r_ with _l_, and softening the _c_. The Tamanach has made choraro (solalo) of the Spanish word soldado.” Humboldt’s personal narrative, book iii. chap. 9.]

[Footnote 38: The position of Mellè is further confirmed in Dapper “Le Roi de _Tombut_ prend le nom d’Empereur de _Melli_.” This title seems to have been transferred to the King of Houssa from the decline of Timbuctoo, to which the aggrandisement of the former city is to be attributed.]

[Footnote 39: The King residing in Houssa is the King of Malla; he has seven tributary Kings. W. H.]

[Footnote 40: I did not hear of the Gotoijegee, Carmasse, or Gourmon of Amadi Fatouma; it is clear that he was not very correct in names. I never once heard Silla called Sellee, Dibbie, Sibbie, or Kabra, Rakbarra.]

[Footnote 41: The Jennë Moor notices between Kabarra and Cabi, Gauw (a great kingdom) Quoülla, Askeä, Zabirma. Ptolemy has a city called Geua on the Gir.]

[Footnote 42: The Jennë Moor told Mr. Hutchison, “the Quolla was the largest river in the world, and about 5 miles wide, having a very rocky channel, the banks on both sides very high, and rugged: in many parts canoes often take a day to cross, from the dangerous whirlpools, and sudden squalls; at other places the stream runs with great rapidity. The houses in its environs are either terraced or shingled, as thatch cannot resist the frequent high winds.”]

[Footnote 43: The Jennë Moor has placed Gangë as an island in the Quolla just below Bousa. This must be the Gongoo of Imhammed, and Ben Ali, south of Cassina. Mr. Lucas writes “the width of the Niger is such, that even at the island of Gongoo, where the ferrymen reside, the sound of the loudest voice from the northern shore is scarcely heard.”]

[Footnote 44: The Jennë Moor traces the course from Yaoora, thus: Boussa, Gangë, Wawa, Noofa, Quollaliffa, Atagara; the only difference being the position of the latter place, possibly an error of mine, as the name Atagara was not noticed in the charts I made the Moors draw, but only in the more particular enumerations of the countries the Quolla passed; the names of which I minuted from their utterance, and afterwards attached their remarks as interpreted to me.]

[Footnote 45: The Jennë Moor calls this Quolla liffa. Mr. Hutchison, who has a servant, a native of it, describes it as a very powerful kingdom, as the Shereef Brahima described it to me, and as was the impression of Mr. Dupuis. Mr. H. adds, on Negro and Moorish authority, “it is to the King of Quallowliffa that the country in which Canna, Dall, and Yum Yum, where cannibals are, is subject.” Mr. Horneman mentions Yem Yems cannibals south of Kano 10 days; and the account is further confirmed in my subsequent geographical sketch of the interior of Gaboon. Mr. Horneman’s information that the Niger flowed towards the Egyptian Nile through the land of the Heathens, which Mr. Park quoted as an argument for the Congo hypothesis, doubtless referred to these cannibals.]

[Footnote 46: “At times the water of this lake is hot, and it boils and bubbles with a great noise, often overflowing the surrounding country. The bones of fish thrown up by the volcano are so numerous, that the Arabs mix them in the swish of their houses. There are a great many islets in the lake, which is so extensive, that they cannot see the end. Between it and the Quolla rises a very high hill, from the top of which is an extensive view; it is a day’s journey from the water on either side. The Arabs eat black rice, corn, and sweet beans, called Tummer.” W. H.]

[Footnote 47: The Jennë Moor has also placed it E. of Foor. Mr. Hutchison writes the course, after him, from Atagara, thus: “Maffagoodoo, Sharee, Lake Chadee, Phorr (beginning of Arabs) “Wadie.” Mr. Horneman writes “A great part of the people of Wadey, together with their King, are Arabs.”]

[Footnote 48: Mr. Hutchison has written it Sooänar.]

[Footnote 49: “Cairo is still called, in the figurative language of the East, Misr, without an equal; Misr, the mistress of the world.” Quarterly Review. Mr. Hutchison writes, that the Moors told him it was so called after Misraim, who settled there.]

[Footnote 50: The following, in the left hand column, are the places or countries as written by Mr. Hutchison, after the Jennë Moor, agreeing with those the Moors reported to me.

Shuewa Shewa Abenassa.

Swiss Sooess.

Zall Zaloo.

Machazoogee Machawazoo.

Tabarbass, cultivation, volcano from the Quolla two days, two days to the top, Tabarrabass.

Askanderee Askandaraia or Sakunderree.

The latter place is Alexandria. The Moors called the Mediterranean Sea to me by two names, Baharlë Malee, and Sabbaha Bahoori. Mr. Hutchison writes it Baramela or Bahermale, and adds, “Seven rivers from Africa turn their course to it, but only two reach the shores, of which the Nile is one. The rush of the waters of the Nile when they meet the sea, is so great, that the waves are driven into the air with great force, and retire like waves against a rock. The Red Sea, they say, assumes various colours at different periods from seven streams pouring their course into it, salt water and fresh, red, blue, yellow, &c.”]

[Footnote 51: “Half of the inhabitants of Massar are white, and half black; they have a Fort and Governor.” W. H.]

[Footnote 52: Stambool is the Arabic pronunciation of the familiar or vulgar name of Constantinople, the etymology of which is ιϛαμαι πολιν.]

[Footnote 53: Mr. Hutchison writes, “Wangara is the name of a region comprehending Mosee Kong, and other neighbouring countries south of the Niger (if not some to the north of it) but Oongooroo is the name of the country laying between Cassina and Bornoo.)” Mr. Park has _Wangeera_ in the route from Sego to the coast of Guinea.]

[Footnote 54: “The dress of the people of Fullan (a country to the west of Kassina) resembles the cloth of which the plaids of the Scotch Highlanders are made.” Ben Ali.]

[Footnote 55: Mr. Hutchison sends me this route, as given him by the Jennë Moor, thus, (supposing me not to have heard of Yariba) “from Goodaberry, over Lasa small water to Quolla, at Boussa; few hours walk to Yaraba; 28 days from Dahomey:” he adds, “recollect that the King of Dahomey is tributary to the King of Yaraba, who is the same in that quarter, as the King of Ashantee is here.”]

[Footnote 56: The Jennë Moor gave this route thus: Wawa to Kiama, a great kingdom, 3 days; close to the eastward a desert; 1 day Garagroogee; 1 day Wala; 1 day Goodaberry.]

[Footnote 57: “Guber est à cent lieuës de Gago vers l’Orient, et en est separé par un desert inhabitable à quatorze ou quinze lieuës du Niger. Cette contrée est entre de hautes montagnes, et toute pleine de villages; celui où le Prince tient sa Cour a quelque mille maisons.” Dapper.]

[Footnote 58: I shall adjoin an outline of the great river in one of the maps of Dapper’s Description de l’Afrique, traduit du Flamand, because the book is very scarce, and I do not remember to have seen the Niger, the Gir, or the Congo so laid down in any other.]

[Footnote 59: The removal of Cano from the banks of the Niger agreeable with every report I received, is supported by Dapper. “A cent soixante et dix lieuës d’Agadez et à deux cent du Niger on trouve ce royaume (Guber), au milieu du quel est la ville de Cano fermée de murailles de bois et de pierre, et qui a des maisons bâties de même.”]

[Footnote 60: “The Mahometans of Senaar number Bornoo amongst the four most powerful monarchies of the world; the other three are Turkey, Persia, and Abyssinia: the sovereign of Bornoo is more powerful than the Emperor of Morocco.” Lucas.]

[Footnote 61: Ce royame, qu’on croit avoir été la demeure des Garamantes, est une vaste Province au levant de Gangara, qui s’étend vers l’Orient l’espace de cent soixante dix lieuës et est éloignée du Niger de cinquante.]

[Footnote 62: Mr. Hutchison heard of another river near Bornoo called Koomoodoo gaiguina: he could not hear of the Wad el Gazel.]

[Footnote 63: I observe, in a modern publication, Dr. Isert’s described as a second visit to Africa, under the auspices of the Danish government, encouraged by his reports to attempt colonization in Aquapim, and that he died from anxiety and exertion. This was not the case, it was his first and only visit, the Danes never attempted colonization, and he embarked for the West Indies as I have before stated. Having read the above, however, I wrote to Dr. Reynhaut, who translated some passages from the Dutch into Latin for me, and the following is an extract from his letter in reply. “Quod attinet Iserti in Africam reditum, ibique ejus obitum, ficta hæc est fama. Verum est juxta Quitam post victoriam in Augnaeos populos reportatam, Danos arcem condidisse, cui nomen insigniverunt Prinzenstein; sed nullæ culturæ incubuerunt, nec colonias struxerunt, nec minus falsum est umquam Isertum in Africæ littoræ inferiora regis jussu rediisse, colonias extruendi gratia, nam præter opus Botanicum quod Floræ Guinensis titulo occurrit, nullum aliud de illo scriptum existit.”]

[Footnote 64: Since I have been at sea I have drawn the maritime part of my map again, and laid down the Forts and other points according to the observations quoted in Norrie, (4th edition, 1816,) which agree so very nearly with those of the Commissioners in the two instances cited, that I conclude he has been allowed to copy the whole series from their papers, which I believe have never been published. Even in Dr. Mackay’s valuable publication, Cape Coast Castle is laid 1° 23′ too much to the eastward. I presume too that the observations made by H.M.S. Amelia, are part of those quoted by Norrie, although the Argo’s observations of the longitude of Quitta and Whydah are not confirmed. I observe a small error which makes 1′ 28″ N. and 7′ 24″ E. the difference between Kormantine and Annamaboe, the former is only 5 miles eastward of the latter.]