Chapter 13 of 20 · 19344 words · ~97 min read

CHAPTER V.

ON BABY-LINEN, WITH SCALES FOR CLOTHES OF OLDER CHILDREN.

“The mother, wi’ her needle and her shears, Gars auld claes look amaist as weel’s the new.” —BURNS.

The following articles are necessary to be prepared for an infant’s first dress, and are equally applicable (with some exceptions) to the poor as well as the rich, though the quality of the materials, of course, must differ. The average number of each article usually provided by ladies for an infant’s wardrobe, may here be introduced with propriety, though they must vary according to circumstances. Persons to whom economy is a great object may find a much smaller stock answer as well, if they are able to send the linen often to the wash.

Shirts 12 to 18 Plate 2 Fig. 23 Flannel bands 2-4 — 3 — 12 Flannel caps 2-3 — 2 — 8 Night-caps 6-12 — 2 — 4 Day-caps 3-6 — 2 Napkins (dozens of) 4-6 — 3 — 11 Pilchers 4-6 — 3 — 10 Pinafores 6-12 — 3 — 18 Bedgowns 4-6 — 3 — 16 First day-gowns 3-4 — 3 — 14 Night-flannels 3-4 — 3 — 1, 2 Day-flannels 3-4 — 3 — 3 Flannel cloak 1-2 — 4 — 19, 24 Flannel shawl 2-3 Robes 4-6 — 4 — 2 to 8 Petticoats 4-6 — 4 — 1 Socks 4-8 Hood 1 — 4 — 29 Cloak or pelisse 1 — 4 — 20, 21, 23

Also, the following et ceteras:—

One receiver; 1 basket-cover; 1 flannel, and 1 India rubber apron; 6 nursery soft towels; 1 cradle, bassinette, or crib-cover, and bedding; 1 pincushion.

LENDING LINEN FOR THE POOR.

Linen is often lent by ladies to the poor, at their confinements, in bags, boxes, or baskets, containing the following articles:—

+-------------------------------------+---------------+ | WOMAN. | | +-------------------------------------+---------------+ | | Pl. Fig. | | 2 shifts | 6 2 | | 2 night jackets | 8 2 | | 2 caps | 9 2 or 20 | | 1 flannel petticoat | 8 9 | | 1 flannel gown (or shawl) | 10 4 | | 1 pair of sheets | | | 1 roll of flannel, 4 breadths long,| | | and ½ yard deep | | +-------------------------------------+---------------+ | BABY. | | +-------------------------------------+---------------+ | | Pl. Fig. | | 3 shirts | 2 27 | | 3 caps | 2 4 | | 1 flannel cap | 2 8 | | 1 flannel band | 3 12 | | 3 night-gowns | 3 12 | | 2 flannel gowns | 3 6 | | 12 napkins | 3 4 | | 2 soft towels | 3 11 | +-------------------------------------+---------------+

Also, may be added, a baby’s crockery bottle, bed-pan, dust-bag, pair of blankets, bottle of castor oil, sal volatile, with proper directions pasted on, some large pins, strong thread, and a few books.

The most convenient kind of basket for containing these articles of clothing, is a light wicker-work one, about 20 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 20 inches high. This size holds two folded sheets, side by side, at the bottom, and all the rest above. It should have two handles, sufficiently high to allow of the lid opening easily. (See Plate 5, Fig. 14.)

A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Baby-linen should be cut out with great exactness and precision, and made up with the most scrupulous neatness. In all the patterns, an eye should be had to their being contrived so as to put on with the greatest comfort and ease to the infant, and made to button or tie readily. No hard seams, buttons, or runners should come in contact with their tender skin, therefore all strings should be made to tie on the outside.

To each head a scale is affixed, by which the same patterns may be cut out of various sizes, in proper proportions, to suit children of different ages.

There are three lengths for the skirts of baby-linen; the first and longest, for the rich, is generally 18 nails, and for the poor, 16; the second size, commonly called three-quarters, is about 15 nails for the rich, and 13 for the poor; the third size, or short coats, is about half a yard.

To prevent mistakes, observe, that on all occasions, the number of nails marked on the Plate, refers to the size of the article when cut out, and not when made up.

CAPS

Are generally made of soft calico, or checked muslin, with muslin frills, for the poor, and of fine lawn or cambric, with cambric frills or lace borders for the higher classes. Babies’ caps, of whatever size they may be, are generally cut so as to form a square when they are doubled, after allowing for runners, &c.

FOUNDLING CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 1, 2, 3, 4.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ | ———————— | Baby’s 1st size. | +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ | | Yds. nls. in. | | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 16 .. 0 | | Quantity required for twelve caps | 1 .. 2 .. 0 | | Width of cap | 4 .. 0 | | Length of cap down to the selvage | 6 .. 0 | | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1 .. 0 | | Depth of slit into the cap | 1 .. 0 | | Depth in front to be turned back | 1 .. 0 | | Depth of frill | 1 | | Length of frill | 1 .. 10 .. 0 | +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ | ———————— | Child of 2 years.| +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ | | | | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 13½ or 18 nls. | +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ | Quantity required for twelve caps | 1 yd. 12 nls. | | | 1 yd. 5 nls. | +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ | Width of cap | 4½ nails | | Length of cap down to the selvage | 7 do. | | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1¼ do. | | Depth of slit into the cap | 1 do. | | Depth in front to be turned back | 1 do. | | Depth of frill | ½ do. | | Length of frill | 2 yards | +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ | ———————— | Child of 4 years.| +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ | | Yds. nls. in. | | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 15 .. 0 | | Quantity required for twelve caps | 2 .. 0 .. 0 | | Width of cap | 5 .. 0 | | Length of cap down to the selvage | 8 0 | | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1½ 0 | | Depth of slit into the cap | 1 0 | | Depth in front to be turned back | 1 0 | | Depth of frill | ¾ 0 | | Length of frill | 2 0 0 | +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+

BABY’S FIRST SIZE.

Choose your calico soft and fine, of 12 or 16 nails wide, so as to enable you to cut exactly three or four caps in the width, the depth of the cap, from front to back, being 4 nails; the whole length, from ear to ear, is 6 nails, which you must measure down the selvage-way of the cloth (see Fig. 2). One yard and 2 nails will cut into twelve caps, if the calico is 16 nails wide.

When you have divided your calico into pieces for caps, cut them out as follows:—

Take one piece, and fold the edge backwards one nail down the long side, and then, by doubling the cap in half the other way, it should form a square (Fig. 1): the nail thus doubled back, (see Fig. 3, A upon B), is to be hemmed down neatly, and a runner formed for a bobbin (see Fig. 4, T). The corners, by the ears, are rounded off (see Fig. 4, S), and another runner formed all round the edge. (Observe, in all the Plates the letter D denotes the folded, or doubled part of the material.) The back is shaped by first measuring one nail from the bottom (see Fig. 3, D D), and cutting into the cap one nail (Fig. 3, D E), taking care to cut it very evenly by a thread: afterwards slope off the crown, above the slit, in a semi-circular form (Fig. 3, E).

The cap is made up by neatly felling and back-stitching the seam from D to D, Fig. 3, and gathering the semi-circular part into the straight piece, E D, and felling it over. A strip of calico is often neatly sewn on the inside, over the gathers, to make them set softer to the child’s head, and is called a back-stay. These strips, together with the chin-stays, should be cut selvage-wise of the cloth.

A chin-stay is three nails long, and half a nail wide, therefore cut off three nails from down the selvage, and then divide from this piece as many chin-stays as are wanted; afterwards cut the back-stays, which are only two and a half nails long, and a quarter of a nail wide. The chin-stay should be neatly sewn up the whole length, with a small button-hole at one end; they are generally sewn on at the left corner of the cap, and the button on the right.

Some persons prefer having two buttons sewn on the cap, one at each ear, and the stay made with two button-holes, so as easily to be changed and washed, without changing the cap also, as babies are apt to wet them, which makes them hard and rough to the chin. The frills should be cut width-wise of the muslin; the strips should be one inch wide. The length is generally determined by the width of the muslin, and is from a breadth and a half to two breadths, so as to prevent waste as much as possible. For a cap this size, about a yard and ten nails length of frilling is sufficient.

[Illustration: PLATE 2.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19

Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 20 Fig 21

Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 22 Fig 23

Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 28

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 29

Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 30

Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16]

ANOTHER CHILD’S CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 5, 6.

SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES.

+-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ | | | | ———————— | First size. | | | | +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ | | Yds. nls. | | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 15 | | Quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps | 1 2 | | Width of cap | 3¾ | | Length along the selvage | 6 | | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1 | | Depth of the slit into the cap | 1 | | Depth of frill | 1 | +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ | | | | ———————— |Child of 2 yrs.| | | | +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ | | Yds. nls. | | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 17 | | Quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps | 1 5 | | Width of cap | 4¾ | | Length along the selvage | 7 | | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1¾ | | Depth of the slit into the cap | 1 | | Depth of frill | ½ | +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ | | | | ———————— |Child of 7 yrs.| | | and upwards. | +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ | | Yds. nls. | | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 14¼ | | Quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps | 2 0 | | Width of cap | 4¾ | | Length along the selvage | 8 | | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1½ | | Depth of the slit into the cap | 1 | | Depth of frill | ¾ | +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+

INFANT’S FIRST SIZE.

This sort will answer for either day or night-cap, and, when nicely made, looks neat and pretty. The calico should, if possible, be 15 nails wide, to allow of exactly four caps being cut in the width, to prevent waste, as these caps are to be 3¾ nails wide: should any waste arise, it will, however, come in for chin-stays, &c. The cap is 6 nails long. Double the piece in half, and it will form a square, by allowing the ¾ of a nail for the runners in front. Measure one nail behind from the bottom, S S, and slit into the cap one nail, S P. Slope off the crown in a semi-circular form, P Q.

In making up the cap, make three or four runners at regular intervals, Z Z, and a neat hem all round, to admit of bobbins. The semi-circular part, P Q, is gathered into the straight part, P S, and neatly felled over, the seam, S S, being previously sewn up. Hem the back-stay inside the gathers, and put on the chin-stay and frill.

CHILD’S FLANNEL CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 7, 8.

SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES.

+------------------------------------------+------+------+------+ | | |Child |Child | | ———————— |First | of | of | | |size. |3 yrs.|6 yrs.| +------------------------------------------+------+------+------+ | |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| |Width of cap, cut in width of cloth | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Length cut down the selvage | 7 | 8 | 9 | |Distance at the bottom to the slit behind | 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ | |Length of slit | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | +------------------------------------------+------+------+------+

INFANT’S FIRST SIZE.

These caps are of use after washing an infant’s head, to prevent its taking cold, till its hair is sufficiently dry to put on its usual cap. Choose very soft fine Welsh flannel, of 15 nails wide, so as to cut five caps in the width, of 3 nails each. Let them be 7 nails long, so as to come well over the ears, and admit of shrinking in washing. Fold the pieces in half, measure at the back 1¼ nails from the bottom, S T, and slit into the cap, T A. Slope off the crown from C to D. In making them up, they should be neatly hemmed, and the hem run at the edge with very fine thread, to make it lie flat, or else herring-boned with very small stitches. Ladies generally have these caps bound with white sarsenet ribbon (see explanation of binding, page 7). The back ought to be herring-boned with very small regular stitches, and the circular part, C D, plaited and herring-boned into the straight part, A T, and a piece of fine calico or sarsenet ribbon hemmed inside, over the plaits. Two runners, or string cases (Fig. 8, F G), are then made by hemming neatly two bits of soft tape or sarsenet inside, at proper distances. The one marked G not to be carried lower down on each side than H, which is nearly opposite the slit at the back. All the tapes are tied outside, and the tape-holes neatly worked round in button-hole stitch. Two tapes for strings.

INFANT’S DAY-CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 9, 10, 11.

No scale necessary, as this shape is generally worn only by infants.

INFANT’S FIRST SIZE.

This shape is the most suitable for a day-cap for the higher classes, and is generally made of worked cambric or spotted lace. The cap is 8 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails wide; your material would, therefore, cut to the best advantage if 15 nails wide, to admit of six caps being cut in the width. The crown or circular piece is 1 nail across when hemmed, therefore, cut it as much larger as will allow for the turning down.

It is finished as follows: make the runners and hem in front very small and firm, either at regular distances from each other, or otherwise, according to fancy. Sew up the back, H, and make a small neat hem at the bottom, J K, to admit another bobbin; afterwards, whip the top, L M, having previously with pins divided it into quarters. Hem the circular piece and crease it into four also, and gather the cap into the crown, drawing the whipping evenly, and making each quarter correspond.

Fig. 11 is the same shape, but more ornamented, having a worked crown, and made of spotted cambric. These caps look very pretty with a white or delicate blue or pink satin or silk inner cap, to set off the work. A piece of insertion-work is also put between the runners in front, which adds to the lightness of their appearance.

PLATE 2. FIG. 12, 13.

This is much used by the poor, and is easily made and as easily washed. Take of the material a piece 6 nails down the selvage, and 3½ nails wide. Double it, letting D be the doubled part. Sew up the back from A to C, leaving a small hole or button-hole at the top, C; make a runner all round the front and behind, at half a nail’s distance from the edge, which is hemmed with a very narrow hem to form a frill: also, lay in a runner from E to F; next, sew a bobbin at B, letting one end of the string hang outside, and the other, being pulled through the seam, remains inside the cap. This end is carried up and brought out through the hole at C (see the dotted line in the Plate which represents the top inside); when worn, the tapes, on being tied together at B, draw up the cap into shape, and if neatly arranged and pulled out with the fingers, it looks very neat and pretty. (See Fig. 13.) Some put a loop of bobbin inside at B, which, on being brought out through C, fastens to a button at B, on the outside.

THE FULL FRENCH CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 14, 15, 16.

This is exceedingly pretty, but is rather troublesome to get up at the wash, and sometimes requires unpicking to be neatly done.

Take a piece of cambric 10 nails wide width-way, and 1¼ deep selvage-wise (see Fig. 15). Take another piece, 6 nails long selvage-wise and 1¼ wide (see Fig. 16). The latter piece is that part in which runners are made to admit of bobbins.

A crown of 1 nail across is then cut, to which the long strip (Fig. 15) is evenly fulled all round with a piece of lace or edging let in all round. The other side is fulled to the front of the cap, and the border being put on, the whole is completed.

CHILD’S HORSE-SHOE CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 17, 18, 19.

SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES.

+------------------------------------------+--------+------------+ | | First | Second | | ———————— | size. | size. | +------------------------------------------+--------+------------+ | | Nails. | Yds. nls. | |Proper width of material to cut | | | | to best advantage | 15 | 12 | |How much wanted for twelve caps | 14 | 1 12½ | |Length of cap down the selvage | 6 | 8 | |Depth of cap cut in the width of material | 2½ | 3 | |Quantity sloped off at M | ½ | ½ | |Length of horse-shoe crown | 2 | 2¼ | |Width of ditto | 1¼ | 1½ | |At what distance from the top begin | ½ | ¾ | | to slope off | ½ | ¾ | |To how much at the bottom, when doubled | | | | it is to be sloped off | ¼ | ½ | +------------------------------------------+--------+------------+

EXPLANATION OF THE FIRST SIZE.

This is commonly called the horse-shoe cap, from the resemblance of the crown in shape to a horse-shoe. The length of the cap down the selvage is 6 nails, and the width 2½ nails. Double it, (see Fig. 18, D being the double part,) and slope at the top of the front, L, to the back, M. The distance from M to O is 2 nails, therefore, half a nail is thus sloped off. For the horse-shoe or crown (Fig. 17), cut a piece 2 nails long and 1¼ wide; fold it length-wise in half, and half a nail from the top, begin to round off the corner towards C, to form the horse-shoe; then measure off at the bottom of the piece, while still doubled, a quarter of a nail, which cut off from A to B, curving it a little to give it a prettier shape. The cap is made up with two or three runners in front: the head-piece is put into the crown, the gathers to be rather fulled at B (Fig. 19), and nearly, if not quite, plain from D to D. The frilling is one inch deep.

INFANT’S FRENCH CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 20, 21.

FIRST SIZE.

This shape is only used for infants, therefore, a scale is unnecessary. It is very pretty, though but little worn, and never used for the poor.

The cap is 8 nails long down the selvage, and 2¾ wide. After doubling it in half, fold it again from A to A, and then from A to B; shape a quarter of a nail off the corners, in a semi-circular form. In the front, D, measure 3 nails, and cut off the 1 nail, taking care to cut by the thread, in an upright direction, for the distance of 1 nail, (P G,) and then slope it off in a corner, to half a nail below the top. In making it up, sew up the back neatly, and full the cap very equally into the crown, which must be one nail across, when hemmed. Three or more runners in front, and double frills, complete the cap.

Ribbon chin-strings to draw through loops on each side, on account of washing.

COCKADES, ROSETTES, &c.

A few words on the rosettes and bows usually put on children’s caps, hats, and bonnets, may not be unacceptable.

There are several kinds of these bows, of which the following are the principal.

A cockade for an infant boy’s cap or hat. This is made of narrow white satin ribbon, sewn on a small circle of buckram, which should be about the size of half-a-crown. Begin at the outer edge of the buckram, and sew the ribbon on in small loops or bows, round and round, until you fill it quite up to the centre.

Lace cockade for a boy. This is often made of some costly kind of lace, generally Valenciennes, and requires four yards. It should be whipped at the edge, and sewn on to a piece of buckram or stiff muslin, beginning at the outer edge of it.

When intended for a girl, it is called a rosette, and instead of being round, it is an oval or long shape, and looks like several frillings of lace sewn together, perhaps 1½ nail long. It is made in the same way as the cockade.

A pretty and less expensive lace cockade or rosette, may be made by sewing edging on each side of a broad piece of net, gathering the net in the middle and running it upon a buckram circle or oval beginning in the centre of it and working to the edge, making the lace stand as full and close as possible.

Infants’ hats and bonnets have pretty trimmings of satin cut the cross way, and about 1½ or 2 nails broad, on a buckram foundation, either round for a cockade, or oval for a rosette; they are merely gathered at one edge, and sewn on the buckram, as described above, beginning in the centre. Being cut the cross way prevents the outer edge roving out easily.

A simple little bow for a bonnet, or to fasten the neck of a dress or pelisse, may be made as follows. Cut off a piece of ribbon 2½ nails long, and plait or gather it up in the middle; this is for the ends: take another piece 3½ or nearly 4 nails long, gather it up in the centre, and turn the two ends of it underneath, to the middle, gathering them up also, thus forming two bows; lay these bows upon the first piece, and sew them together in the centre, with strong thread: to conceal the gathering, fold a small piece of the ribbon very narrow, and tie or sew it round the middle of the bow, as if to hold it together; this finishes it neatly.

INFANTS’ OPEN SHIRTS.

PLATE 2. FIG. 22, 23, 24, 25, 26.

Infants’ shirts are generally made of soft calico for the poor, and very fine lawn or cambric, for the higher classes.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+ | ———————— |Small size.|Large size.| +-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+ | | Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. | |Width of material, to cut out | | | | to best advantage | 15 | 16½ | |Quantity requisite for twenty-four shirts | 5 13 | 6 10 | |Depth of shirt to be cut in the width | 5 | 5½ | |Length of shirt to be cut down the selvage | 10 | 11 | |Length of sleeve to be cut down the selvage| 1¼ | 1½ | |Width of sleeve | 2½ | 3 | |Gusset | bare nail.| full nail.| |Slit down for the arm-hole | 1½ | 1⅔ | |Space for shoulder | ¾ | ¾ | |Slit for flaps | full nail.| full nail.| +-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+

Either of the above sizes is very good for babies’ first shirts. The small size fits the best for the first five or six weeks after the infant’s birth, but with a large baby would soon be too small; the second size, therefore, though rather too large to begin with, is eventually the most useful. As it is advisable to avoid waste as much as possible, the width of the material would best determine the size, taking care, however, that it does not exceed the one, or be smaller than the other of the above scales.

In cutting out 24 shirts (see Plate 2, Fig. 22), cut eight lengths of 10 nails for the skirts (see A), eight lengths of 1¼ nails for sleeves (see B), and three lengths of 1 nail (see C) for gussets.

In cutting out the first size, choose your calico of exactly 15 nails, to admit of three shirts being cut in the width, of 5 nails long each. The width of the shirt down the selvage is 10 nails. Fold the shirt in half, and then double it again, so as to fold it in quarters (Fig. 27), cut a slit down the two doubled parts in front for the arm-holes (see O Q); take care that you do not cut your arm-holes at the wrong end of the doubled part, they should be slit at the end where there are two folded parts to slit down: make them 1½ nails deep, then leave a full three-quarters of a nail for the shoulder (see O B), and slit down a full nail to form the bosom and back flaps (see B D). The sleeves are 1¼ nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails wide, so that three pairs will cut exactly in the width of the calico, if 15 nails wide.

The gussets are a bare nail square; about eight pairs will cut in the width. Fig. 26 is the appearance of the skirt after being cut out, when half opened, so as to be doubled once. In making a shirt, hem it neatly with a very narrow hem, unless there is a selvage at the bottom: hem, also, the two sides and the flaps, taking care to do the last properly, so as when falling over, to lie the right side outwards. Two narrow tape strings are sewn to the corners of the middle flap, 7 nails long. The shoulders are sewn and felled with very narrow seams; the gussets are then sewn on the sleeves, which are very neatly hemmed. The sleeve is set into the shirt, and fulled at the top in neat and very small gathers. All the seams should lie particularly flat, and be as narrow as you can make them.

INFANT’S SECOND OR CLOSE SHIRT.

PLATE 2. FIG. 27, 28, 29, 30.

When infants are about nine months old, they generally leave off using the open or first shirt, and begin to wear the close shirt (Fig. 30) until they reach the age of seven or eight years, when the usual shaped shirt or shift is worn.

SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES.

+----------------------------------------------+---------+--------+ | |Child of |Child of| | ———————— |8 months.| 2 yrs. | +----------------------------------------------+---------+--------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | |Width of material | 14 | 15 | |Full breadth of shirt to be cut in width | 14 | 15 | |Length of shirt to be cut down the selvage | 4 | 5½ | |Length or depth of sleeve cut down the selvage| 1 | 1 | |Width of sleeve | 3 | 3 | |Gusset | 1 | 1 | |Slit down the arm-hole | 1¾ | 2 | |Space for shoulder | 1½ | 1½ | |Slit for flaps | 1½ | 1½ | |Slit for tail | 1 | 1¼ | +----------------------------------------------+---------+--------+ +----------------------------------------------+--------+----------+ | |Child of|Child of | | ———————— | 5 yrs. |7 or 9 yrs| +----------------------------------------------+--------+----------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | |Width of material | 16 | 18 | |Full breadth of shirt to be cut in width | 16 | 18 | |Length of shirt to be cut down the selvage | 7 | 9 or 10 | |Length or depth of sleeve cut down the selvage| 1½ | 2 | |Width of sleeve | 3 | 3½ | |Gusset | 1¼ | 2 | |Slit down the arm-hole | 2¼ | 3 | |Space for shoulder | 1¾ | 2 | |Slit for flaps | 1½ | 2 | |Slit for tail | 1½ | 2 | +----------------------------------------------+--------+----------+

EXPLANATION OF THE FIRST SIZE.

Choose your lawn or calico 14 nails wide, if possible, to admit exactly of one shirt in the width. Cut 4 nails down the selvage-way for the length of the shirt.

Fold the piece in half, which will make it 7 nails wide when thus doubled, make a slit down the doubled part of 1¾ nails deep for the arm-hole, and put a pin in the two selvages to mark the depth of the other arm-hole. Fold the shirt once more, so as to lay the two arm-holes one upon the other, (see Fig. 27), and, at the top, from O to Q, measure 1½ nails for the shoulder, and slit 1½ nails, making the slit B D slope outwards towards the sleeve, about half a nail out of the straight line, as bosom flaps shaped thus, set much better to the figure, and also that part of the shoulder (Fig. 30, P) can be turned over, and confines all straps, tapes, &c. neatly, so as to prevent their being seen from under the frock sleeve.

The sleeve usually put in is 1 nail deep, to be cut down the selvage, and 3 nails wide. The sleeve-gusset a full nail square, and the skirt gusset half a nail square. (See Fig. 24.)

The shirt is made up as follows (see Fig. 30). Sew the two selvages together (see R) with fine strong thread, leaving 1¾ nails above for the arm-hole, S, and 1 nail below for the opening, or tail of the shirt, U. The corresponding side, H, is double, so that the slit for the arm-hole and for the tail have to be cut. Hem the bottom of the skirt and up the tails, after putting in the gussets (or tail bits as they are generally called). Some people think these tail gussets unnecessary for young children; but they add so much to the strength of the shirt, and give so little extra trouble, that they are well worth the pains. Sew and fell the shoulders with flat narrow seams, hem the bosom flaps, taking care to turn down your hems so as to be the right side outwards, where the flap falls over. Set in your sleeves quite plain, till nearly the top of the shoulder, and full in the remainder, in very small neat gathers. Two tape strings are sewn at the corners of the front bosom flaps.

Fig. 25 is another pattern of a sleeve which is very neat when worn, as it is never seen below the frock sleeve; but it has a less finished appearance than the other. This last shape, however, is preferable for children from four to six years of age, from its strength and simplicity, and is made as follows:—Cut a piece of calico two nails square, which fold and cut in half, corner-wise (see Fig. 29); fold this half square again, and the double part, D, falls under the arm, E is set into the shirt, and H is hemmed neatly for the arm to go through. The great advantage of this shape is, that the shift sleeve is never seen from beneath the child’s frock, and therefore always sets neatly (see Fig. 30, the sleeve to the right).

[Illustration: Plate 3.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7

Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11

Fig 12 Fig 13

Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17

Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22]

INFANTS’ FIRST FLANNEL GOWNS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 1, 2.

This is an excellent pattern for an infant’s first gown, either day or night, from the ease with which it is put on, and also for the warmth and support it gives to the child. The body is made of flannel, lined with very fine soft calico or lawn.

In cutting out the skirt, tear off two breadths of the proper length. The long clothes of babies of the higher classes are longer than those of the poor, as the latter would soon be tumbled and dirty, they should be 13 or 14 nails, and for the former, about one yard is ample. Some ladies dress their children in very long flannels and robes, but this is as unnecessary as it is ill-judged; for the weight of the long petticoats must be painful, besides the perfect inability of the poor infant to stretch and kick about its little limbs, is obvious.

Divide one of these breadths in two, and pin a half-breadth to each side of the whole breadth. Run firmly down the two seams, and herring-bone them back again, and then bind with the flannel binding neatly down the two sides of the front, and at the bottom of the skirt. The body is 12 nails long to be cut down the selvage, and 2 nails wide. About seven bodies can be cut in the width, flannel being generally 14 nails wide. Double the piece for the body length-wise, and stick in a pin 1½ nail from the front or doubled part (see A B) to mark where the beginning of the arm-hole lies. The arm-hole is 1¼ nail across, and ¾ nail deep; after cutting it out, slope the remainder of the body from H to K in a straight line, to within a ¼ nail from the bottom at the end, so as not to finish off in a point. A large opening, or sort of button-hole is next made under the left arm-hole, to be ¾ nail long, leaving about ¼ nail above and below it. It is thus made up: place the soft lining upon the flannel, taking care that the wrong side is outwards, and run them firmly together, pretty near the edge, along the two sides, the top of the body, and round the arm-holes; after which, finish your thread firmly off, turn the body inside out, and stroke the lining and flannel smoothly together, by putting your hand inside and pressing it gently all round. Next put the skirt into the body; measure the middle of each and pin them together; afterwards, pin the front or opening of the skirt at M, exactly half way between the arm-hole and the end of the body (see O P). The skirt from M to O to be set in plain, and then the remainder plaited up in about twelve small equal plaits to the middle, taking care to turn the plaits so as to lie outwards from the centre towards the point; the other half is then to be fixed in, and with a strong thread, stitch the plaits to the flannel body, laying the two rough edges together. When done, smooth down the stitched part, and hem the calico lining to it.

The body should next be run neatly and firmly with very small stitches all round, about ¼ inch from the edge. In the part from P to M, the lining should be made so as to be a little seen on the outside, and be hemmed down to represent flannel binding. The lawn or calico shoulder-straps should be cut 1¾ nail long, and a button-hole worked at one end, while the other is sewn on that end of the arm-hole towards the middle. The slit or button-hole should be turned over neatly by the lining, to appear as if bound all round. Two narrow tapes of 4 nails long, sewn to the points, complete the whole. In dressing the infant, the one end is drawn round through the slit, which makes it fit closely and compactly to the figure, and yet be soft and elastic. Fig. 2 is the representation of one folded as if on.

ANOTHER SHAPE FOR AN INFANT’S FIRST FLANNEL NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 3. FIG. 5, 6, 7.

This is a very good kind also, and the one in most general use, though not equal to the one just described. It takes a breadth and a half to make this petticoat, therefore it prevents waste if you cut out two at once.

Cut your two breadths 14 nails long, or a yard, according to pleasure, and measure along the width of one breadth (Fig. 5) 3½ nails from the selvage (see A B), and put in a pin as a mark. Measure the same at the other end of the width of the flannel, making your measurement from the opposite selvage (see C D); then double your flannel smoothly across from B to D, and cut it evenly along the sloping line.

The other breadth of flannel is torn exactly down the middle. Take one of these halves, and let one of the above mentioned sloped pieces be pinned on each side of it, taking care to place them with the sloped part outwards (see Fig. 6, E E), and the smaller part of each sloped piece be at the top. After running and herring-boning the two seams, P P, you must cut out the top part of the skirt to form the body. First, therefore, double the skirt very evenly in half, and beginning at the end which is open, leave 3½ nails for the back, L L, and place a pin as a mark; and also in order that the flannel, when once laid correctly, may not slip out of its place. Measure 1½ nail for the arm-hole, which you must also pin; then cut it out to the depth of ½ nail, L O N, measure 1½ nail beyond for the bosom, N X, and then cut down 1 nail deep, in a straight line, X Y; after which, cut off the flannel in a straight line, Y W, to the end. The gown, when opened, has the appearance of Fig. 6, with a large piece cut out of the bosom in the middle. The two sides of this gap in the bosom should be very firmly run together about one inch from the edges; these edges then should be laid open, so as to turn back, one on the one side, and the other on the other, and very neatly herring-boned down; it will thus have the appearance of two hems (see Z Z, Fig. 7). The skirt, which of course is very full, must be set into two equal double plaits, and herring-boned upon the body in the inside. The skirt at the sides must next be set in two or three plaits (see F G, Fig. 7), so that, when plaited up, the space from the arm-hole to the back be but 1½ nail. Bind or herring-bone the top of the bosom, and make a string-case of soft tape at the top of the back. Put in the tapes, sew on shoulder straps of soft calico or tape, with button-holes, and put on the buttons at the end of the arm-hole, towards the back.

ANOTHER INFANT’S FLANNEL GOWN.

PLATE 3. FIG. 4.

This shape is the one generally used by the lower classes, not only for flannels, but for print gowns and petticoats; and is preferred to others on account of the ease with which it is cut out, and also because there is much less needle-work in the making up: there is, however, some waste, which is an objection. The gown is 13 nails long, but as there should be no seam on the shoulder, the two breadths must be cut in one length of 26 nails, which is 1 yard 10 nails. Double it in two, so as to be 13 nails long, and then fold it in half very evenly down the middle, so as to make the four selvages lie exactly one upon the other, and pin them firmly down to keep the folds in place; then, after measuring 3 nails from the selvages at the top (see A S), to determine the length of the sleeves, cut out the part S C D, to form the neck of the gown. Observe that the part from S to C is a nail deep, which should be nicely rounded off, and from C to D, the bosom is cut straight along.

The gown is next shaped at the side; and to do so properly, put in a pin at S, and fold it in a regular slope down to the bottom of the gown. Measure down the slope from the top, S, the distance of 2 nails, and put in a pin as a guide; cut off from the bottom upwards to T, and rounding it off at the corner, slope along T K for the sleeve, allowing 1½ nail width for the wrist. In making it up, the seams should be joined with a mantua-maker’s hem, and a band should be sewn on the inside of the front, to be 6 nails in length, and about 1½ nail below the neck. Cut a button-hole in the gown at each end of the band, draw with a bodkin a piece of tape through one hole, and fasten it down at the other extremity of the band; do the same with the other button-hole, so that on pulling the tapes, the gown will be drawn up, and neatly fulled in front.

INFANT’S SECOND SIZE NIGHT-FLANNEL.

PLATE 3. FIG. 3.

This shape is used when infants are six or eight months old, and is merely a double flannel body sewn upon the skirt, which is two breadths of 12 nails in length.

The body is 11 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails deep when doubled; therefore cut it 5 nails wide, and double it down all the length very carefully. You must pin or tack it together evenly, to enable you to cut out the arm-holes correctly. Then fold the body in two, measure from the end two nails for the back, A, and cut out the arm-hole 1 nail deep, and 1½ nail across. Open the body again, unpick the tacking-threads, and run round the arm-holes with small firm stitches on the wrong side of the flannel, also up the sides; after which, turn the body inside out, and then make a large plait in front as a support to the child; this plait ought to be so large, that when made, only 2¾ nails will remain between the arm-holes, instead of 4 nails. After herring-boning this plait neatly down, run in small stitches all round the body (see the dotted line) at about a ¼ of an inch from the edge, to make the flannel lie flat, and give it a finished appearance. Some people back-stitch it, and others prefer making a line of very small herring-bone, or else chain-stitch it all round. These last two modes are certainly more ornamental, but the simple running is quite as neat, and saves much time; three tapes must be sewn on one end of the body, at equal distances from each other, and at scarcely a nail from the edge; the three tapes at the other end to be sewn on close to the edge, and to correspond with the others, so as to tie neatly with each other, and to allow of the body lapping over nearly a nail. The shoulder straps of tape are sewn on, and are 2 nails long, after allowing an extra half nail for turning in.

The skirt is sewn up, and not open as the others; the bottom is neatly bound, the pocket-hole is torn down the middle of one of the breadths, and is two nails long; it must also be bound all round. The skirt is set into the body in small plaits.

INFANT’S FIRST SIZE DAY FLANNEL.

PLATE 3. FIG. 8.

SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES.

+-------------------------------+-------+-------+--------+--------+ | |Infant.| Child |Child of|Child of| | ———————— | | of 6 | 2 or 3 | 4 or 6 | | | |months.| yrs. | yrs. | +-------------------------------+-------+-------+--------+--------+ | | Nails.| Nails.| Nails. | Nails. | |Length of skirt | 16 | 12 | 5 | 6 | |Length of body down the selvage| 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | |Depth of body | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | 3 | |Space across the arm-hole | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | |Depth of arm-hole | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | +-------------------------------+-------+-------+--------+--------+ | ⁂ The space for the bosom and back is ascertained by dividing | | the body in four, and cutting out the arm-holes according to | | the Scale. | +-----------------------------------------------------------------+

The body is made of fine jean or twill, lined with lawn; or, if for the lower classes, of soft coarse calico, with plenty of nap upon it. The body is 8 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 1¼ deep, so that twelve bodies could be exactly cut in the width, if your stuff were 15 nails wide.

Fold the body in two, and, after measuring 1½ nail from the edge, cut out the arm-holes, which are 1 nail across, and ¾ nail deep. Slope off, both at the top of the back and at the bosom, about a ¾ of an inch, to make it set better. The lining is next cut out, and both are run neatly together, the wrong side outwards, near the edges, along the sides and top, and round the arm-holes: when done, turn the body inside outwards, and flatten it between your finger and thumb, so as to make it lie flat. Afterwards back-stitch it, in beautifully even stitches, all round the top and sides, at a little distance from the edge. Sew on the shoulder-straps and tapes, putting three on each side; those on one side to be set close to the edge, and the other three at about half a nail’s distance from it. The skirt is about 14 nails or a yard long: the two breadths are sewn together, and the pocket-hole torn in the middle of the back breadth about 2 nails. The bottom is bound, as also the pocket-hole, and the skirt set in the body in regular small plaits at the sides, leaving it plain in the middle for about 2 nails.

ANOTHER CHILD’S DAY FLANNEL.

PLATE 3. FIG. 13.

This pattern is intended for children of six to ten years, previous to their wearing stays. The body is made of fine jean, and lined with calico; pieces of cord or bobbin are placed between the two in rows, and fastened in by the needle, running the body and lining together between each two rows. Rows of cord may be thus run in various patterns, and, if neatly done, look very pretty.

The Plate is a sufficient guide for cutting out the body, without further description. The skirt should be set in plaits in the middle, and towards the ends. The shoulder-straps should also be of jean.

INFANT’S FLANNEL BAND.

PLATE 3. FIG. 12.

Infants require great warmth and support round the stomach and hips, and for that purpose, wear flannel bands for the first ten or twelve months.

Cut the flannel down the selvage 14 nails long, and 2½ nails wide. It should be exactly 15 nails in width, to enable you to cut out six without waste.

Herring-bone very neatly the top and bottom, and herring-bone a deep hem of ½ a nail (see A) at one end, and a narrow one (see D) at the other; then make two large plaits in the middle, to reduce the length to 11 nails (see B C). These plaits will be about half a nail deep, and should fall one on each side of the middle, and be herring-boned down. The three strings on each side to be sewn as seen in the Plate; those of the one side to be put at 3 nails from the end.

INFANTS’ FLANNEL PILCHERS OR SAVERS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 9, 10.

Infants often wear pilchers or savers, put over their napkins, to prevent their clothes from being wetted. They are made as follows:—

Cut a piece of flannel 11 nails square, fold it in half, and cut it crosswise, A B: it will make two pilchers. It must next be rounded off a little at the two corners, A B, and at the third corner, E, (which, observe, is opposite the cross-way of the flannel,) sew on a piece of calico, in which cut a button-hole. The crossed part, A B, is then neatly plaited into a calico band, 1 nail deep, when doubled, and 8 nails long, and a button and button-hole sewn on at the ends. In putting it on, first button the band round the waist in front, bring the corner between the legs, and button it to the same button.

INFANTS’ NAPKINS.

PLATE 3. FIG 11.

Babies napkins should be made of soft diaper, or, if for the poor, old sheeting, table linen, or strong fine linen answers well. Choose your material exactly 10 or 20 nails wide. Napkins are generally made by cutting the diaper in lengths of 20 nails, and doubling each length in two. Sew nearly all round the doubled piece, taking care to turn the raw edges outwards instead of inwards, as usually done, because the napkin is turned inside out, when it is sewn all round, with the exception of a space large enough to admit the hand, to enable it to be turned. This opening is afterwards neatly sewn up with small stitches. It is essential that the seam or outer edge of napkins should be as smooth and soft as possible, on account of the tender skin of infants: it is very desirable to soak and scald the material often before it is used. Two strings and a tape loop may be added, to be used instead of a pin, to fasten it on.

ANOTHER MODE OF MAKING NAPKINS.

The pieces, when cut off, should be merely hemmed like towels, and, when used, are doubled and put on as the others. The grand advantage of this simple sort is, that when there is but one baby, they come in, after nursery use, for towels and other purposes, whereas the others are comparatively useless.

INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 3. FIG. 14, 15.

Night-gowns are generally made of calico or dimity, and sometimes of fine twilled muslin. The calico are most frequently used, but the dimity look the prettiest; they, however, often split, and are not so durable as the former.

This pattern is the one usually adopted by ladies for infants: it requires great neatness in the making up, to look well.

Let your material be about a yard wide, and cut two breadths of 18 nails long each. Fold each breadth very evenly down the middle, and at one end stick a pin, exactly 2 nails from the selvages. Crease the stuff from this point to about a nail from the bottom, and cut off the gore. These gores come in for the two bands and wristbands. The former are each 10 nails long, and 1 nail deep; the wristbands are 2½ nails wide, and, when double, are ¾ nail deep: they should be nicely rounded at one end. The sleeves are cut in the shape and to the size of Plate 4, Fig. 15.

After sewing up the seams, the neck and arm-holes are formed. The shoulder is a little sloped, and is 1¼ nail long. The arm-holes are a little curved, and 1¾ nail deep. The bosom and back are hollowed, and the slit behind is 3 nails deep.

Procure a piece of strong insertion-work, 2½ nails long, and ⅔ of a nail deep.

In making it up, first hem the neck of the gown, and, at ¾ of a nail below the bosom, run the finest gathers possible, leaving a space of 1½ nail on each side, between the end of the gathers and the sleeve. The gown is again gathered across, about a nail below the first gathering, and then the insertion muslin is very neatly sewn on the gathers, with very small even stitches; the two bands are next stitched, one at each end of the insertion-work, and are rounded off at the ends. A narrow frill of lawn is put round the bosom. The sleeves are fulled at the top, and set in; they are either merely hemmed to admit a tape, and a lawn frill sewn on them, or are put into wristbands, which should button over. Instead of putting in insertion-work, some bias it at the waist, which is thought to make it wear better.

Fig. 14 represents the front, and Fig. 15 the back of the gown.

ANOTHER INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 3. FIG. 16, 17.

The skirt of this pattern is cut out exactly like the one before mentioned, but is made up in a more simple manner. The gown, instead of being gathered in front, is left loose, and a strip of calico, ½ a nail deep, is sewn on in the inside, about ¾ of a nail deep from the bosom, and of such a length as to leave, on each side, but two nails space between it and the arm-holes. This piece of calico is to be used as a string-case, and two small slits for tape-holes must be cut in the gown, at about a ¼ of a nail distance, within each end of the strip. The tapes should be rather broad, and each, on being drawn by a bodkin through its slit, should be carried along the string-case and firmly fastened down to the opposite end, so that, on pulling the two strings, the gown is drawn up in neat gathers, forming a body. The sleeves are cut down the selvage instead of crosswise, and are nearly straight, the top being 4 nails wide, and the bottom or wrist, 2½ nails. A small frill may be put on the bosom and wrists; or, if it is a coloured gown for a poor child, a small runner to admit a bobbin, at the distance of the width of a narrow frill from the edge, will, on being drawn up, form a very neat frill both for the bosom and sleeves.

ANOTHER INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN.

This sort is only used by the poorer classes. It is made of coloured print or soft calico, and is cut out exactly after the pattern of the flannel bed-gown (see Plate 3, Fig. 4). The frills are formed by making runners near the edge of the neck and wrists.

INFANTS’ PINAFORES.

PLATE 3. FIG. 18.

Pinafores are made of diaper, Holland, linen, or print. The former are for ladies’ infants—the latter for the poor. The patterns vary according to sex and age. The one generally used at first is as follows:—

SCALE.

+---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+ | ———————— |First size.|Child of |Child of | | | | 2 yrs. | 6 yrs. | +---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | |Length down selvage | 8 | 10 | 12 | |Width of material | 11 | 14 | 15 | |Depth of arm-hole | 2 | 2¾ | 2¾ | |Piece left for shoulder | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | |Quantity hollowed out of neck | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ | |Length of frill to each arm-hole | 10 or 11 | — | — | |Depth of frill | ⅓ | ½ | ¾ | |Distance from top for the second | | | | | tape to be sewn on | 2 | 2¼ | 2½ | |Size of gussets | ½ | ½ | ¾ | +---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+

Procure your material exactly the proper width for the pinafore, to prevent waste. Alter cutting off the pieces of the proper length and width for the pinafores, take one piece and fold it down the middle, length-wise, in two; then again fold it, and cut the slits for the arm-holes by a thread. Pin it carefully together, still folded in four, whilst you hollow out the neck, leaving the proper space for the shoulders. Hem it at the top as you would a shift, by turning down the hem, and then turning it backwards, the more readily to hold it while you sew the hem firmly all round. The arm-holes should have narrow hems, and be very firmly sewed at the bottom, or they will tear. Whip and sew on the frills, hem the bottom, sew on the tapes, and the pinafore is completed. Some people put gussets in at the shoulder: and it is better to do so for elder children.

For further sizes, see School Girl’s Pinafore.

PINAFORE WITH LAPPETS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 19.

This shape is very much used by the poor, as it protects the sleeves. The pinafore is cut out exactly as in Fig. 18; but instead of putting on frills, little capes or lappets are substituted. These capes are cut width-way of the size, according to the Scale.

SCALE OF LAPPETS.

The cape is rounded off towards the ends, and, after being neatly hemmed, is whipped and sewn all round the arm-hole, making the ends come under the arm. In front, the pinafore is confined with a band, which is stitched firmly on in two places before, and which, passing round the waist, buttons behind.

THE WASTE-NOT PINAFORE.

PLATE 3. FIG. 20, 21.

This is a particularly simple shape, being cut without any waste whatever.

Divide the pinafore in four, and cut it according to the Plate.

SCALE.

Nails. Width of material 12 Length of ditto 8 Space from A to B 1½ Space from B to C ¾ Space from C to D ¾

Cut from A to D, by which means a shoulder-flap is made, and, when on, the shoulder-piece is raised sufficiently to prevent the necessity of hollowing out the neck. A double plait should be sewn under the arm-hole (see Fig. 21, A). This cape, being plain, is improved by an edging of work, or a little braid, to add lightness to its appearance.

A BABY’S DRESS PINAFORE OR TIDY.

PLATE 3. FIG. 22.

Intended to be worn when the child’s frock is tumbled or untidy. It is made of cambric or jaconet muslin. There are two breadths in it of 14 nails wide—one breadth in front, and the other cut in two, and sewn on each side. The arm-holes are made in the seams, and frilled round, or lappets sewn on. At the top in front, from shoulder to shoulder, the pinafore is drawn up by a tape in the hem, and secured to the proper size. The front is biassed into a band of insertion-work, to go partly round the waist. The back is drawn by a string at the top, and again below by a string-case. The front may be either simply biassed once into the band, or it may have three or four rows of biassing. Round the top is an edging of work, or a frill.

INFANTS’ PETTICOATS.

PLATE 4. FIG. 1.

SCALE.

+---------------------------------------+------+----------+--------+ | ———————— |First | Child of |Child of| | |size. |18 months.| 2 yrs. | +---------------------------------------+------+----------+--------+ | |Nails.| Nails. | Nails. | |Width of material | 14 | 14 | 16 | |Length of body down the selvage | 9 | 10 | 11 | |Depth of body | 1¾ | 2 | 2¼ | |Depth of arm-holes | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | |Width of arm-holes | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 | |Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3 | 3 | |Length of shoulder-straps | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 | |Length of short sleeve when opened out | 4½ | 7 | 8 | |Greatest depth of ditto | 2¼ | 2½ | 3 | |Least depth of ditto | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | +---------------------------------------+------+-+--------+--------+ | ———————— |Child of|Child of| | | 5 yrs. | 8 yrs. | +---------------------------------------+--------+--------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | |Width of material | 16 | 18 | |Length of body down the selvage | 12 | 13 | |Depth of body | 2½ | 2¾ | |Depth of arm-holes | 1½ | 2 | |Width of arm-holes | 2 | 2¼ | |Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3 | |Length of shoulder-straps | 2 | 2¼ | |Length of short sleeve when opened out | 9 | 10 | |Greatest depth of ditto | 3½ | 4 | |Least depth of ditto | 1½ | 2 | +---------------------------------------+--------+--------+

Petticoats are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, or fine calico, and should be about 14 nails wide. The skirt is 2 breadths in width, and cut to the length required, after allowing for the deep hem or tucks. They are usually cut the following sizes for the rich and poor.

Nails. Nails. First size 17 15 Three-quarter size 13 12 Small size 8 7

In cutting out the body, double the strip in two, and again in half, so as to be folded exactly in four, and cut out the arm-holes according to the depth and width wanted, as seen by the Scale. The sleeves are cut out according to the pattern in Plate 4, Fig. 12 or 13; the shoulder-straps are cut out, and the body is ready for making up. Hem it along the top, sufficiently wide to admit a tape, stitch on the shoulder-straps, sew and hem the sleeves, and gather them into the shoulder-straps. The body should have rather wide hems at the two ends, and a sufficiently wide hem at the bottom to admit a narrow tape. Full the body in front, and sew it firmly to the skirt (which should be previously gathered), making it lie pretty evenly all round. The top strings should draw from the shoulder-straps only, and another string may be run in the front to draw it, and tie on one side.

INFANTS’ FROCKS.

PLATE 4.

Are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, and print, and, when the children are older, sometimes of nankeen, jean, Holland, merino, cloth, stuff, and silk. Those for the poor are usually of print, and are made according to the pattern for petticoats (see Plate 4, Fig. 1); those for the rich are made in various ways, among which are the following:—

The full body. The plain body, cut in one piece. The plain body, with backs and fronts cut crosswise.

[Illustration: PLATE 4.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7

Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11

Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18

Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23

Fig 24 Fig 28

Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 30]

SCALE FOR THE SKIRTS.

Width of skirt 2 or 3 breadths, so as to form from 14 to 16 nails wide, when the skirt is double, as if made up.

Rich. Poor. ———— ———— Nails. Nails.

Length of skirt for first size 18 15 Ditto three-quarters size 12 or 14 10 Ditto short coats 8 8 Depth of hem at the bottom 4 1 Depth of slit to the skirt 2½ 2½

There are so many ways of making up skirts, that only a few will be described.

Broad hems and tucks of various depths are the simplest and prettiest; others are more ornamented by letting in work at the top of the broad hem, or working with braid, bobbin, or cord. Robings are often brought down in front, in continuation of the little capes sewn on the bodies. These robings should be 1½ nail broad, sloped off to ½ nail, and carried down to the bottom of the skirt, or to the top of a deep hem. They should be sewn on so that the edge of the work is turned outwards.

The sleeves are made according to fancy, and are of the sizes marked in the Scale, pages 35, 36.—(See also, Plate 4.)

FULL BODIES.

PLATE 4. FIG. 1.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------+-------+--------+--------+ | | | Child | Child | | ———————— | First | of | of | | | size. | 1 yr. | 3 yrs. | |-------------------------------------+-------+--------+--------+ | | Nails.| Nails. | Nails. | |Depth of body down the selvage | 1½ | 2 | 2¼ | |Length of body width-way of the cloth| 14 | 16 | 20 | |Depth of arm-hole | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | |Width across arm-hole | 1½ | 2 | 2¼ | |Length of waistband | 8 | 9 | 10 | |Length of band for the hem at top | 8 | 9 | 11 | |Length of sleeve-bands | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Length of shoulder-strap, if wanted | 1¾ | 2¼ | 2½ | +-------------------------------------+-------+--+-----+----+---+ | | Child | Child | | ———————— | of | of | | | 5 yrs. | 8 yrs. | |-------------------------------------+----------+----------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | |Depth of body down the selvage | 2½ | 3 | |Length of body width-way of the cloth| 20 | 20 | |Depth of arm-hole | 1¾ | 2 | |Width across arm-hole | 2½ | 3 | |Length of waistband | 11 | 13 | |Length of band for the hem at top | 12 | 13 | |Length of sleeve-bands | 4¼ | 4½ | |Length of shoulder-strap, if wanted | 2¾ | 3 | +-------------------------------------+----------+----------+

In cutting it out, double the strip for the body once, and again in half, and then cut out the arm-holes the proper depth and width. The full body is made up in either of the following ways:—the first and most simple, is by merely hemming it at the top and bottom, putting wide hems at the ends, and then setting it upon the skirt, making more fulness at the back and in front than at the sides. The sleeves are put into the body with shoulder-straps.

The tapes are put in to draw from the shoulder-straps behind, at the top, and another string to draw in front, also a tape all through the waist-hem.

These simply-made frocks are very useful for fast-growing children, as they will let out to the size wanted.

ANOTHER MODE OF MAKING UP.

PLATE 4. FIG. 2.

The other mode of making them up is the neatest in appearance. The body is gathered at the top and set into a long narrow band, which forms the hem and the shoulder-straps. The bottom of the body is also firmly gathered, and sewn on with very strong thread to the skirt, which is also gathered so as to let the fulness lie principally in front. Sometimes the body is biassed in front in two or three rows, as in Fig. 2.

PLAIN STRAIGHT BODY.

SCALE.

+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ | | First |Child of|Child of| | ———————— | size. | 1 yr. | 2 yrs. | +----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | |Length of body down selvage | 10 | 11 | 12 | |Depth of body | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 | |Depth of arm-hole | ¾ | 1 | 1½ | |Width across arm-hole | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 | |Length of band, if wanted | 8 | 9 | 9½ | |Length of shoulder-straps | 1¾ | 2 | 2¼ | |Length of sleeve-bands | 3 | 3 | 3 | |Length of band at top | 9 | 10 | 10 | |Length of each cape | 9 | 10 | 11 | |Depth down selvage | ¾ | ¾ | 1 | +----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ | |Child of|Child of|Child of| | | 4 yrs. | 8 yrs. | 10 yrs.| +----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | |Length of body down selvage | 14 | 16 | 18 | |Depth of body | 2½ | 2¾ | 3 | |Depth of arm-hole | 2 | 2½ | 3 | |Width across arm-hole | 2¼ | 2¾ | 3 | |Length of band, if wanted | 10 | 11 | 12 | |Length of shoulder-straps | 2½ | 2¾ | 3¼ | |Length of sleeve-bands | 3½ | 4 | 4 | |Length of band at top | 10 | 11 | 12 | |Length of each cape | 13 | 14 | 14 | |Depth down selvage | 1¼ | 1¼ | 1¼ | +----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+

Straight bodies are generally used for ladies’ children, and are ornamented in different ways. Some are worked in bobbin-work, coronation braid (see Fig. 4), common braid, or else work is let in; and others with satin-stitch worked on the muslin, or very fine small tucks, either horizontal or perpendicular (see Fig. 3). One or two bodies will be more minutely described here, as a guide by which to make others.

PLATE 4. FIG. 5.

Divide the body in half, so as to ascertain the middle, and run a tacking-thread down it; run two others, one on each side, at the distance of little more than ½ a nail from the middle, at the top, and slanting down to the middle point at the bottom of the body; run two others, at the distance of ⅔ of a nail on each side of the last, slanting them towards the centre, at the distance of ½ a nail on each side from the centre. These tacking-threads serve as a guide, by which means the pattern can be done more regularly. Sew two bobbin-lines, one on each side of each tacking-thread, leaving a small space between them sufficiently wide for little oylet-holes, or some other ornamental pattern, to be worked. Afterwards, sew on the bobbin neatly in patterns, according to fancy. Put in the sleeves next, having worked the bands and the triangular shoulder-bits to correspond with the front. Next put on the capes. The whole should be trimmed with a little edging or narrow work.

PLATE 4. FIG. 8.

The front is worked in fancy button-hole stitch, as in Plate 5, Fig. 19. The bands round the sleeves and the triangular shoulder-bits are worked in rows of the same stitch. The capes are worked near the edge with the horse-shoe stitch, as also the ends of the body (Plate 5, Fig. 20), and the edging is entirely of fancy bobbin edging (Plate 5, Fig. 18).

PLATE 4. FIG. 6.

Procure some pretty open work, in the style of that in the Plate, and sew several strips together, always making the pieces narrower at the bottom than at the top, in order to make them point towards the centre, as in the Plate. A body made thus generally wears and washes very well. The capes should be of some pretty work, and the whole trimmed with edging to match the rest. The triangular shoulder-bits have a piece of insertion-work inlaid in them.

BODY WITH HONEY-COMB STITCH.

This body has the side-bits cut as above, and the front is a triangular piece of honeycomb-stitch worked and let in. In making the triangular bit, lay the plaits very narrow and even, before working it in honeycomb. For a description of the stitch, see Plate 1, Fig. 15, 16.

SLEEVES.

PLATE 4.

There are various sorts of long and short sleeves, some of which it is impossible to describe clearly, and it will not, therefore, be attempted. The most simple are the following:—

THE ROUND SLEEVE.

FIG. 1, 18.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+ | | |Child |Child |Child | | ————— | First | of | of | of | | | size. | 1 yr.|3 yrs.|6 yrs.| +----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+ | | Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| |Size of square piece out of which | | | | | | the circle for the sleeve is cut| 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | |Diameter of inner circle | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | |Length of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | |Length of sleeve-band | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ | 3¾ | |Depth of sleeve-band | ½ | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | +----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+

FIG. 18.

Cut your material into square pieces of the size wanted (in proportion to the Scale), and double the square in half, so as to make it triangular, or three-cornered in shape. Fold it in the same manner again and again, as often as it will admit of being done; one side is longer than the other, mark it with your scissors the same distance on the long side from the point, as it is on the short, and cut it directly across; by which means the square will become a circle, as will be seen when opened. This circle should be hollowed out at one side (Plate 4, Fig. 18), in order to make it set better under the arm. Before opening the circle, a small hole should be cut at the pointed end, to form the opening for the arm in proper proportion. The shoulder-strap and band are next cut. Set the inner circle very neatly into the band; after which, gather the outer circle and sew it to the shoulder-strap, ready to put into the body. This sleeve is sometimes confined by loops of ribbon, or little triangular pieces of work, as in Fig. 2 and 6.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 4. FIG. 13.

PRINCIPALLY USED FOR PETTICOATS AND PLAIN FROCKS.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+ | | Baby’s |Child of|Child of| | —————————— |first size.| 2 yrs. | 4 yrs. | +----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | |Measure of the largest depth | 2 | 2½ | 3 | |Length of sleeve, when open, | | | | | to cut crosswise of the material| 7 | 9 | 11 | |Measure of the smallest depth | ½ | ¾ | 1 | |Length of band | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ | |Length of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | +----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+

It is better to cut this pattern (and indeed all patterns of sleeves) in paper, before cutting your material, to prevent waste. The pattern, when folded in half, resembles Fig. 13, being for the first size, and is 2 nails deep from A to B, and 3½ nails long from B to C. The top, from A to D, is sloped down, beginning at E, which is about half the length, by which means the depth from D to C is only 1 nail. When opened, the sleeve resembles Fig. 12. In cutting it out, turn up a corner of your material (Fig. 12) in the form of a half-handkerchief, A B being parallel to, or straight with C D. The pattern sleeve is laid with the long straight end upon the crease, so as to lie crosswise. Cut through the folded muslin carefully by the pattern, so that the _pair_ of sleeves is cut at once. The part which forms the bottom of the sleeve is straight, and should be gathered into the band. The sloped side is gathered or whipped into the shoulder-strap.

PLATE 4. FIG. 14.

The Scale is the same as Fig. 13 and 8.

This sleeve is the most favourite shape, and is cut out exactly like Fig. 13; after which the part, A B, is sloped off at 1 nail from the end, C. A triangular piece of worked muslin is hemmed round; the sleeve is then neatly put into the arm-hole, with mantua-maker’s hem, or run and felled, after which the rest of the sleeve is whipped and sewed on to the triangular piece. These sleeves are generally made with a little frill very much fulled, which forms a cape behind, and also in front; the frill is therefore sewed on the sleeve neatly at the edge of the triangular bit.

PLATE 4. FIG. 9, 11.

This is another variety of sleeve, and is very pretty for a young child. It is cut out, in the first instance, exactly like Fig. 14; after which it is sloped off in the shape of a triangle below, so that the sleeve requires a triangular bit below, as well as on the shoulder, for the sleeve to be fulled to. The bottom triangle should be cut with the band, into which the sleeve is confined.

LONG SLEEVES.

PLATE 4. FIG. 15, 16, 17.

Long sleeves, if for bed-gowns and under clothes, may be cut according to the bits of cloth left, to prevent waste, always remembering to cut selvage-wise. They are generally the shape of Fig. 15, Plate 4. The sleeve is sloped off from D to A, so as to cut about a nail off the stuff (see D C). Slope in the direction D E, to make the wrist about 1½ or 2 nails wide. The part, A B D, should be hollowed. Sometimes it is desirable to piece the sleeve when there are many bits; in which case it may be joined across from B to E of the under double, taking care that the muslin pieced on also runs selvage-wise. In cutting out long sleeves, take care to cut them a pair, so that the joinings shall lie outside, and the hollowed part towards the inside or front. From A to C is 3½ nails.

Long sleeves, for dresses, spencers, &c., to be properly made, should be cut as follows (Plate 4, Fig. 16 and 17):—turn up the corner of your muslin to form such an angle as will just hold the sleeve, so as to make the one side of the long sleeve lie along the selvage, as in Fig. 16, where, the sleeve being small, but little of the corner is turned up, in which the sleeve, A B C D, exactly fits. The top corner, F, must be sloped off, and the corner, D C, also, to the proper width for the wrist, which is 1½ nail.

Fig. 17 is a better sort of sleeve, and is here introduced, though it properly belongs to the table of sleeves in Plate 12, in which a description and pattern of each size is correctly given. The corner is turned up to a complete half square, so that A and B are parallel to C D. From A to B is 6 nails; from B to D 5½ nails. From A to H, and from B to C, are 1½ nail. Curve from H to E. From H to G are 5½ nails. From E to F are 3½ nails. From F to G, 1¼ nail. This sleeve is called the gigot, or gigot de mouton sleeve, from its likeness to a leg of mutton. For further particulars, see Sleeves, Plate 12.

AN INFANT’S RECEIVER.

A receiver, or wrapper, in which an infant is put immediately on its birth, previous to its being washed and dressed, is composed of the finest Welsh flannel, with a soft warm nap upon it. This flannel should be a perfect square, and is generally made of 2 breadths of flannel; the width of the flannel must, therefore, determine the size of the square, which should not be less than 24 nails, or more than 2 yards. A soft piece of fine calico, linen, or cambric muslin, is taken, of the same size, and they are bound together with flannel binding. This receiver is frequently used afterwards by the poor in the double capacity of coverlet and shawl, to carry the infant about in.

INFANT’S SHAWL.

For the first three months, infants should be carried about in a shawl, not only on account of the warmth, but as a matter of security to their tender heads and limbs, which cannot bear the hard pressure of the nurse’s arm or hand.

These shawls for the nursery should be simply a square of flannel of 1½ breadth or 2 breadths. The best shawl, with which it is carried into sitting-rooms, should be made of merino, Indiana, kerseymere, or, what is better still, of the fine thick Saxony flannel. These are usually made with very deep hems, about 1½ nail of the same material, braided with silk braid all round, and worked at the corners, or else the hem is formed of pearl-white satin or rich silk; but these last spoil so soon, that it is a great expense.

INFANT’S FLANNEL CLOAK.

PLATE 4. FIG. 19, 24.

It is recommended to all mothers to have a flannel cloak to wrap round their infants when carried about in their night clothes, and when up at night; and they will be found especially useful when the baby is old enough to be dipped in a cold bath, or obliged to be put in a warm one, as, on taking the child out of it, they can wrap it up entirely, and almost rub it dry with the cloak itself.

The first size here mentioned will last a child well from its birth until eighteen months or two years old.

SCALE.

The cloak requires two flannel shoulder-pieces to make it strong. Full the skirt very evenly all round to the proper size, and then laying the edge between the edges of the two shoulder-pieces, which should be held so as to fall back or down against the skirt, one on each side, sew, or rather back-stitch them very firmly together. When this is done, turn up the shoulder-pieces on each side, so that the edges are completely hidden on both sides of the cloak. Sew the collar neatly on to the other two edges of the shoulder-pieces, and conceal the rough edges by means of a wide string-case of soft tape or calico.

The cloak is bound with flannel binding, and the arm-holes also; they are either opened in the seam, or if that would make them too far back, they should be cut in the flannel at once, at the proper distance. A deep cape might be added as the child grew older, or if it were sickly and required additional warmth.

CHILD’S BIB.

PLATE 4. FIG. 25.

This is often used by mothers for their children while cutting their teeth, to prevent the moisture from their mouths wetting their chests and the bosoms of their frocks. It is made of three or four folds of fine diaper, sewed together on the wrong side, and turned inside out, to conceal the edges, it is hollowed to fit under the chin, and made to tie with a ribbon round the neck.

INFANTS’ PELISSES AND CLOAKS.

PLATE 4. FIG. 20.

Infant’s first cloaks are generally made of some warm material, as cloth, merino, kerseymere, or wadded silk. The last-mentioned, though pretty, soon spoils, being easily injured by wet, and the colours of those parts near the baby’s chin fly and look shabby; merino and kerseymere are decidedly the best for the purpose, and look equally neat and handsome. There is a kind of fine but thickly woven flannel, particularly strong and elastic, and well adapted for children’s shawls and cloaks. It is called Saxony flannel, but is rarely to be procured at country shops, and seldom of any colour but white. It is about 1 and 1½ yard wide, and varies from 3_s._ 2_d._ to 5_s._ per yard: for the lower orders, cloth, stuff, nankeen, gingham, or print, are the most serviceable.

INFANT’S LONG PELISSE.

PLATE 4. FIG. 20, 21, 22, 28.

It must be made of two or more breadths, according to the material; as the widths vary exceedingly, it is impossible to lay down a definite rule further than this; that the whole width round the bottom should be from 30 to 33 nails; and at the top sloped off to 24 nails.

Supposing the material to be of wide width (say 20 nails), half one breadth would be wide enough for the back, and one whole breadth crossed according to Fig. 22, would form the two fronts. Observe that the two straight sides of the crossed pieces are set in front.

SCALE.

+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ | | First | Second | | —————————— | size. | size. | +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| |Length of skirt | 1 3 | 1 0 | |Width round the bottom, about | 33 | 30 | |Sloped off at the top to reduce the width to | 24 | 24 | |Length of shoulder | 2 | 2¼ | |Sloped off from the shoulder | ½ | ½ | |Length of arm-hole | 2 | 2½ | |Arm-hole curves into the skirt (see Fig. 28) | ½ | ½ | |Length of sleeve down the selvage | 5 | 6 | |Width of ditto | 5 | 6 | |Double the sleeve selvage-wise, and slope off| | | | for the wrist to | 1½ | 2 | |Case for string sewed on inside | 4 | 5 | |Whole length of band | 10 | 11 | |Cape, according to Plate 13, Fig. 31 | | | |Collar, according to Plate 13, Fig. 13 | | | +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ | —————————— | Third | | | size. | +---------------------------------------------+---------+ | | Nails. | |Length of skirt | 14 | |Width round the bottom, about | 30 | |Sloped off at the top to reduce the width to | 24 | |Length of shoulder | 2¼ | |Sloped off from the shoulder | ½ | |Length of arm-hole | 3 | |Arm-hole curves into the skirt (see Fig. 28) | ½ | |Length of sleeve down the selvage | 7 | |Width of ditto | 6 | |Double the sleeve selvage-wise, and slope off| | | for the wrist to | 2 | |Case for string sewed on inside | 6 | |Whole length of band | 12 | |Cape, according to Plate 13, Fig. 31 | | |Collar, according to Plate 13, Fig. 13 | | +---------------------------------------------+---------+

The sleeves, collar, &c. should be cut from the remaining half-breadth of the cloth.

If the material be but 10 or 12 nails wide, 3 breadths must be used, and the two front breadths sloped off to the proper width at the top.

In making up the pelisses, the front breadths are lined with silk or sarsenet, as also the top part or body, collar, cape, &c., but the back breadth should be lined with cambric muslin. The hem at the bottom of the skirt is about 1½ nail deep, while that up the sides and round the cape and collar are but ¾ of a nail. Take notice, in cutting your collar and cape, that allowance must be made for the hems.

The skirt seams are sewed up, as well as the lining, and joined together by means of the broad hem round the bottom; the shoulders, arm-holes, and sleeves are next completed, after which the neck is finished by making a hem at the top, and drawing a tape through it, which is fastened down at both ends after the skirt has been drawn up to the proper width which should be about 1 nail wider than is required to set round the neck. A strong case of ribbon or other soft material is next put round the neck inside, through which a ribbon is drawn and fastened in the middle. This ribbon, of course, ties in front.

For children’s short pelisses, see Plate 14.

CLOAKS FOR SUMMER.

PLATE 4. FIG. 23.

This is a very simple and remarkably neat looking pattern for a second sized cloak. It looks well when made of twilled muslin, cloth, nankeen, print, and especially fine dimity. The material should be about 1 yard 3 nails wide, in which case one breadth and 14 nails is sufficient for the skirt, which should be one yard long.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------------+----------+ | | Yds. nls.| |Quantity required for one at 19 nails wide | 3 14 | |Width of cloak at the bottom | 2 1 | |Length of ditto | 1 0 | |Size of sleeves, both width and length | 5 | |Length of wristband down the selvage | 3 | |Width of ditto | 2 | |Length of band | 12 | |Width of ditto | 2 | |Collar cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 3 | column 2 | |Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13, Fig. 4) | column 1 | |Length of cape down the selvage | 7 | |Whole width of ditto | 2 0 | +-------------------------------------------+----------+

The remaining 5 nails off the second breadth of the skirt may be cut into collar, shoulder-piece, &c. The cloak has a broad hem laid on all round, which the cape and collar have also, to form which, strips should be cut selvage-wise of 1¼ nail, and sometimes worked muslin edging of a neat but open pattern is put on all round.

About 9 or 10 yards of the strips are required, and, as frequent joinings look ill, it would be better to cut off a piece of the material a yard long, from which all the strips can be taken off; 9 strips of this length will only take 11¼ nails out of the breadth; therefore, if economy is a great object, 10 strips might be cut in the breadth of but 10 nails deep, which would cut up the breadth without waste.

Yds. nls. Material for Cloak and most of the et ceteras 2 0 Ditto for long cape 14 Ditto for strips 1 0 —— —— 3 14

If the strips are often joined, 3 yards 8 nails.

In making up the cloak, the shoulder-piece is piped all round, and the skirt fulled evenly into it. The collar is then sewn on, and a casing made at the top, to admit of a ribbon. The broad hem is next laid on all round, and the sleeves put in. At the waist, the casing is sewn on inside, and the band outside, the back may be confined to the band or not, at pleasure.

INFANT’S FIRST HOOD.

PLATE 4. FIG. 26, 27, 29, 30.

This is the most approved shape for infant’s first hoods, whether they are boys or girls, owing to its warmth and softness, and also for the comfort with which an infant can rest its head on its nurse’s shoulder. They are generally made of merino, Indiana, kerseymere, satin, silk, nankeen, or indeed of any material similar to the cloak. Kerseymere, lined with silk or satin of a pale colour is particularly pretty and suitable, from its simplicity.

[Illustration: PLATE 5.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 10

Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 12 Fig 14 Fig 15

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 13 Fig 16

Fig 30 Fig 31

Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21

Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29]

Cut a piece along the selvage, 7 nails long, and three nails wide; double it in half its length, making it only 3½ nails. Let F A (see Fig. 27) be the doubled part, and on the opposite end, measure off one nail from C to B, and cut it off in a direct line from B to A. F D is the front of the hood. The horse-shoe crown (Fig. 26) must be cut next, for which take another piece of 2¼ nails long, down the selvage, and 2 nails wide. Fold it half the width, and slope off a third of a nail from the bottom, B to D, also round off the top. For the tippet or curtain, form a perfect circle, from a square of 8 nails, from which take out the triangular piece (see Fig. 30, A B C), the distance from B to C being 2 nails along the line. In making up the hood, cut a lining of silk or satin the same size; also one of fine flannel, wadding, or demet; then sew the crowns into the head-pieces of each of the three materials separately. The merino hood may be piped with silk or satin, braided with silk braid or worked in chain-stitch, with netting silk, round the horse-shoe crown, after which, place the flannel lining between the merino and silk, and stitch them firmly together with small neat stitches, as close to the piping or braid as possible. Next run them all together at the edges, admitting a piece of chip or thin whalebone to give a little stiffness. Two runners are made three quarters of a nail from the edge, and from each other; these runners must be of sufficient width to admit the three-penny width ribbon. These ribbons are fastened at one side of the hood, and drawn up to the proper size, and then tacked down at the other, leaving sufficient ribbon to allow of the hood being undrawn entirely, when it is wanted; another ribbon is put behind. A rosette of satin ribbon is worn on the left side, if a boy, and in front, if a girl, and a small bow behind. The curtain is sewed on plainly along the horse-shoe, but fulled from thence to the ears.

These hoods will draw out to last a child twelve months after its birth, and will clean well, when of merino.

For children’s hats and bonnets, see Plate 19.

COVER FOR A BASSINETTE.

PLATE 5. FIG. 1, 2, 3, 4.

A bassinette (see Fig. 4) is a very small cradle made of wicker-work, about 3 feet long, 18 inches wide, and 15 inches high. It is very useful for carrying about, and may be set upon a table, sofa, or bed, taken in a carriage, or even upon the lap with little inconvenience. For a delicate child, and in the winter, it is very desirable, being much warmer than a larger cradle.

Bassinettes are fitted up with a coloured lining under a thin dimity or muslin covering. The lining is sometimes made of white, blue or pink satin or silk, but more generally, and more sensibly, of glazed calico. It should be put on the outside of the wicker-work, and also very neatly fulled in regular folds inside it. The cover is made about half a yard deep down the selvage, and 4½ yards wide. When all the breadths are sewed together, a deep hem is made at the top, with a runner for a string (the hem and runner together to be about 1 nail). If the material is thick, it is better to sew to it, quite plainly, a deep frill, of a finer texture, to give it lightness, instead of having the frill made of the same; through the runner pass a tape, which will draw it all round to the proper size, to fit the body of the cradle; a second hem at the bottom will also be required for the same purpose (see Plate 5, Fig. 1). The head-piece, Fig. 2, is made, so that when drawn up, it will fit the head of the bassinette. Cut a piece of ½ a yard down the selvage, and 1 yard 2 nails in width. As there must be no seam in the width, if the material be not wide enough, it would be better to cut the width down the selvage-way instead. It must be doubled in half the width (the 1 yard 2 nails), see Fig. 2, and sloped off from B to C in a very gradual curve, the space from A to B is 3 nails. Hem each of the two straight sides, and make a runner from B to C for a tape. Next full the straight part, D A, to the exact size round the front of the head; let the fulling lie towards the middle, and when ready, sew on the double frill, which is made of fine clear muslin. The frill, Fig. 3, is cut in strips width-way, of 3 nails each; sew these strips together till you have about 4 yards length of frilling; make a narrow hem on each side of the frill, and then begin to put it upon the front, or fulled part of the head-piece; for this purpose, double the frilling exactly in half, and while thus doubled, allow from the centre ¼ of a nail for the frilling, and make another even crease all along. Open the frills, and turning down at the one side, begin to run; and, dividing it, of course, into quarters, gather it evenly; when done, sew it firmly to the cover, at within ¼ of a nail from the edge; after which, turn down the other outer crease at the proper distance from the centre of the frill, and do the same with it; when ready, sew it on to the edge itself of the head-piece. This frilling should stand up well, and not he flat against the cover; for this end, not quite so much as ¼of a nail should be allowed between the two seams. A ribbon the same colour as the lining runs through the puffing, and fastens the cover on in front, while the tape or ribbon, through the other runner, ties it at the bottom of the head, and draws it up to the right size.

CRADLE COVER.

PLATE 5. FIG. 5, 6, 7, 8.

A cradle merely requires a little drapery over the head, to form curtains, in order to guard the infant from the sun, or from draughts of air, while asleep, and to give an air of comfort and cleanliness.

The drapery should always be perfectly white, of dimity, twilled muslin, or other neat strong material. Some ladies put covers of thin muslin over a coloured lining, but nothing looks so well as perfectly white curtains. The dimity, &c. should be about 1 yard wide; take two breadths of the proper length from the head of the cradle to the floor, about 14 nails, pin them evenly together, and sew up the seam from A to B (Fig. 5), about the distance of ½ a yard, but this must be determined by the cradle, observing to sew up until it begins to curve. As the curve must be cut while the material is fitted on the cradle itself, the dimity should be pinned along the bottom of the cradle from A to E, and also from A to B at the back. Then fit it accurately by pinning the breadths exactly, though easily together, along the curve, allowing enough for shrinking in washing, and when nicely fitted on, cut off the superfluous part and stitch it along, while on the cradle; the rough edges may afterwards be turned over, and hemmed down. The remainder of the dimity in front, is intended to hang over the cradle top, to form little curtains; hem round each side, and connect them together with small stitches, by running a cord up one hem, and down the other (Fig. 5, C D), the piece is drawn up to a small compass. This drawn up piece will require a bow or rosette of muslin (see Fig. 8); the whole piece may be trimmed with fringe, or turned up with a piping, which, if the cover be lined with glazed coloured calico, should be of the same. A loop of cord should come from underneath, and encircle the rosette (see Fig. 8).

For noblemen’s families, these covers are sometimes edged with silk fringe, or turned up with silk or satin, to accord with a lining of the same.

CRIB COVERS.

PLATE 5. FIG. 16.

These are generally made with a horse-shoe back, reaching from the top to the bottom of the crib; it is piped all round, and a piece of the proper width to go from side to side over the hoops is cut selvage-way, and either sewn plainly or fulled on to the horse-shoe back. This piece may either be finished in front like that over the cradle head, by drawing it up, and thus forming curtains; or two half-breadths may be fulled evenly round to this head-piece. Crib covers are frequently lined with blue or other coloured calico, which is sometimes made larger than the cover, to admit of being turned up so as to form a little border outside.

INFANT’S HANGING COT.

PLATE 5. FIG. 9.

This is a convenient shape, as it easily takes to pieces when not in use. The sides are either made entirely of wood, when no drapery is necessary; but they are usually merely frames to which ticking or any other material is fixed.

If it is furnished with ticking, it is laid on plain, though almost any other material, which will not wash is laid in plaits or fulled. The material is bound all round, and nailed on at the inner side, after which, an inside lining of glazed calico, or other material is put.

If the material is a washing one, glazed calico, chintz, twill, or white dimity is used; and this last is particularly neat and nice, and in the country might be made to keep clean a long time; the pieces should be fulled into some strong binding, to which very small loops might be sewn, large enough to admit of the nail to confine it firmly to the crib, so that when the covering is removed for washing, the loops alone are torn by the nails, and they can be easily replaced. The head drapery is similar to that of Fig. 16. Cotton fringe and gimp set all round, both above and below, gives a pretty finish to the whole. The ropes of the cots should be often looked to, and frequently renewed, as they wear out quickly, and the child’s safety depends on their strength.

THE TRAVELLING COT.

PLATE 5. FIG. 10,11,12, 13.

This is a most convenient crib for mothers to use when travelling with young children, as it is extremely light, and can be put up in two minutes, and if kept in a leathern case, with straps (see Fig. 10), it can easily be attached to the roof, or below a carriage, and be perfectly free from damp.

The stand (see Fig. 13) is made of strong beech-wood, and when taken to pieces, is in seven parts. The upright posts are fastened together two by two, by the short bits of wood, A and B, which are screwed tight into the legs by long iron screws, with brass heads. The long bar, C D, connects the two sides together also, by means of screws. These screws should be attached to the posts or bars they belong to, by a string, as the loss of one would render the crib unsafe. The lower parts of the four posts are much thicker than the upper, to give support to the crib. This is formed of five pieces of wicker-work (see Fig. 11), the bottom and four sides. The four sides are fastened firmly to the bottom, allowing, however, ample room to give full play for the sides to fold backwards or forwards. At each extreme corner is fastened a ring of iron, brass, or strong wicker-work. These rings are so placed, that when the sides are turned up to form the crib, the two rings at each corner shall slip over the top of each post of the stand, by which means all will remain firm.

The wicker crib should be 4 feet long, 2 feet 6 inches wide, and 15 inches deep. The one narrow end might be made deeper to give more protection to the head; and one or two hoops might be put into a ring or staple at the sides of the wicker-work, by which means a head-piece is easily made.

The stand posts should be 30 inches high, letting from E to G be 13 inches, from G to H, 7 inches, and from H to J be 10 inches.

The head drapery might be made similar to Fig. 15. The lining should be very simple and easily put on; also very warm, on account of the open wicker-work sides. Wadding or flannel should be quilted well over, between two folds of Holland, coloured glazed calico, or chintz, and made to tie on inside. This lining should be very thin, else it will take room in packing. When the crib is packed up, the posts are unscrewed, and the basket is folded with the sides inwards, so as to require as small a case as possible. A pillow from any bed is all that would be required, as bedding for the crib.

A child’s cradle or crib contains the following articles:—

A mattress, which should be 1 nail thick, made of ticking or Holland, and stuffed with wool or horse-hair.

Some ladies have their mattresses filled with finely cut chaff, others with sea-weed or with beech leaves. Chaff keeps particularly dry, and is cool and pleasant to lie on in the summer.

A bed, which should be very thin, and made either of best feathers or down.

A pillow, also thin, and made of down.

Three blankets, made of thick Welsh flannel, and bound round with flannel binding, or worked with coloured worsted.

One coverlet, of which some can be procured made for the purpose; or, if not, the material sold for toilette covers will answer as well, if it is light.

A head-piece, or drapery for the head.

To which may be added a pair of calico sheets, if the child is some months old; otherwise they are not sufficiently warm for them to lie upon: an Indian rubber or a leathern sheet, to prevent the feather bed from getting wet, and the ticking decayed; a foot flannel, or piece of flannel 2 breadths square, bound round, to wrap up the child’s feet.

BABY’S BASKET.

PLATE 5. FIG. 31.

A baby’s basket should be lined either with the finest dimity or cambric muslin; in the latter case, an inner lining of coloured glazed calico or silk is often added. The cover should be very full—about three times the length round the basket, or more. After cutting the strips width-way, and sewing together sufficient to form the length required, make a small hem or runner along one side; after which, another is made about ½ a nail or more from it, according to the exact width of the ledge at the top of the basket. Upon the outer of these two runners is sewed a double frill, and between this and the inner runner, slits are cut in the proper places to admit the four handles, which are neatly hemmed round. At the bottom, on the other side of the strip, there is also a runner, through which a cord is drawn. A piece of the dimity is next fitted to the bottom of the basket, after which, the strip that goes round it being drawn up evenly, it is sewed on very neatly and firmly to the bottom piece. To the four corner strings are sewed, which being passed through the straw work of the basket, tie the cover firmly down to it.

The strings for the top are put in as follows:—four long pieces of cord are cut off, about 1½-yard each; they are doubled in two, so that one end is only a ¼ of a yard long: these cords are sewed firmly in the runner, each to the one side of each of the four handles, letting the short end of the cord be drawn through the runner at that shortest side next the corner, while the long cord has to be drawn past the handle and along to the furthest corner, where, on meeting the short end of another cord, it is tied firmly under the ledge of the basket. Of course these cords cannot be run in until the covering is actually upon the basket.

It may not be considered as out of place here, to state the usual contents of a basket, when prepared for an infant at its birth.

At the bottom, after putting in the bottle, with its leather or parchment suck, the other things are placed in the following order:—

The large flannel shawl, the calico bed-gown, night-flannel, night-cap, shirt, napkins, flannel cap and band, soft towels, sponge, hair brush, powder-bag, or box. Quite at the top are the receiver, the pincushion, with large and small pins, large pair of scissors, and a ball of strong thread or fine twine.

THE PINCUSHION.

PLATE 5. FIG. 17.

“The satin cushion chequered o’er With shining pins, this motto bore.” —THE MOTHER.

One kind, out of the numerous sorts known to every body, is alone mentioned here, as being the best, on account of its steadiness and the depth, which renders it safer, should it chance to get into the hands of a young child.

It is rather longer than it is broad, being about 7 nails by 6 nails, and nearly 3 nails deep. This will hold the largest pins without danger of their pricking through to the other side. The top and bottom should be made alike, with a frill all round, as seen in the Plate. These pincushions are sometimes made of muslin over satin or silk, but, if intended to be useful, white dimity is by far the best.

THE LEATHER SUCK FOR BOTTLES.

PLATE 5. FIG. 15.

As most of the articles used by infants have been entered upon in turn, it is considered advisable to mention also the mode of making and fastening on the leather or parchment suck to the bottle. The suck is cut in the shape of the figure, so that when doubled down the middle, it resembles the upper part of the thumb of a glove. The two sides and the top are either joined together in the button-hole stitch or back-stitch; and if the latter, the suck must be turned inside out, that the smooth side may come in contact with the infant’s mouth. If mothers follow the rather dangerous practice of putting a bit of sponge inside the suck, it should be first well tied round and fastened to the nose of the bottle, and the string brought round the ledge of the hole (see Fig. 15), and brought again to the nose of the bottle and fastened. The sucks are merely fastened on by a strong thread wound round the nose.

LINING FOR CHAIRS.

PLATE 5. FIG. 30.

These little chairs, without legs, which are so useful to set upon the table or floor, for those children to sit in who cannot support themselves safely, should be softly lined throughout. A piece of flannel and wadding, cut to fit the chair, should be quilted together with the material the chair is to be covered with, either Holland, chintz, or calico. The whole should be very neatly bound, and then sewn or tacked on to the chair. A little cushion, stuffed with bran or horse-hair, should be put for the seat. These chairs should have sticks, with large knobs to screw on at each end. They should also be made with the sides or arms to lay flat, or turn up and fasten at pleasure, as they can, when flat, be easily packed in a trunk or laid under the carriage seats; and these comforts, when travelling, are well worth attending to. These little chairs, when the child can walk, come in nicely for swings, when, of course, the sides require lacing up firmly. For the baby’s night-chair should be made a flannel cushion to sit upon. Three or four doubles of flannel, cut to the size of the seat, with a hole stitched round in the centre, and run over in diamonds, is both neat and serviceable.

A child’s travelling night-stool is so great a convenience in the carriage, during long journeys, that it is here mentioned, though there is little to be said as to its fitting up. The lid should be covered with cloth, stuffed well with horse-hair or wool, to make it soft as a seat. This cloth should be nailed all round with smooth brass-headed nails. The lid should open with a spring, and the seat inside be covered with soft quilted flannel or Indian rubber cloth. The pan, which is of block-tin or crockery, should have a lid made to fit it tightly. These little stools should be about 9 inches high, and 10 inches square.