CHAPTER VI.

WOMEN’S SHIFTS.

PLATE 6.

Shifts are generally made of fine Irish linen or calico, for the upper classes, and of stout linen, or strong but soft calico for poor children.

Shifts are cut out differently, according to the width of the cloth. If it is wide, the shift takes 2 breadths in the skirt, and gores are cut off from the top to sew on the bottom to widen the skirt.

If the cloth is still wider, so as to admit of only 1½ breadth in the shift, or else very narrow, so that 2 breadths are barely sufficient, the shift is crossed. The tops vary, as do also the shapes of the sleeves. The following are those generally worn.

SCALE FOR GORED SHIFTS.

+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ | | Largest | Smaller | | ———————— | size. | size. | +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| |Width of material | 14 | 14 | |Quantity required for one | 3.. 2 | 2.. 14 | | Ditto ditto for six |18.. 12 |17.. 4 | |Length of skirt, cut in one piece | 2.. 12 | 2.. 8 | |Width of piece to gore off at the top | 2½| 2 | |Space to leave for the shoulders | 1¾| 1½| |Depth to hollow the bosom | 2¾| 2½| | Do. to hollow the back | 2 | 2 | | Do. of flaps, if preferred | 3 | 3 | |Length of sleeve down the selvage for Fig. 1 | 6 | 6 | |Depth of sleeve | 3 | 3 | |Size of gusset | 3 | 3 | +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ | | Second | First | | ———————— | size. | size. | +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| |Width of material | 13 | 12 | |Quantity required for one | 2.. 7 | 1.. 15 | | Ditto ditto for six |13.. 11 | 9.. 11 | |Length of skirt, cut in one piece | 2.. 2 | 1.. 10 | |Width of piece to gore off at the top | 2 | 1¾| |Space to leave for the shoulders | 1¼| 1 | |Depth to hollow the bosom | 2¼| 2 | | Do. to hollow the back | 1¾| 1½| | Do. of flaps, if preferred | 2½| 2 | |Length of sleeve down the selvage for Fig. 1 | 5 | 5 | |Depth of sleeve | 2½| 2¼| |Size of gusset | 2½| 2¼| +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+

[Illustration: PLATE 6

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7

Fig 20 Fig 8 Fig 16

Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11

Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 17 Fig 18

Fig 19]

In goring a shift, the 2 breadths may be cut in one length, to prevent a seam on the shoulder. Fold your piece of cloth in two, and pin the sides very accurately together, or with long stitches tack them up the selvages. Next double the shift in half its length, from A to B, and put in pins to mark the crease in the middle, C C. Unfold the shift and double it again very carefully the width-way, so as to let the four selvages lie very evenly one upon another. Measure from the top, B, the space, B D, to be cut off, crease the linen in a straight line, from D to C, and cut it carefully off through the four thicknesses of cloth. The gores thus cut from off the top are reversed and sewed on to the bottom, to widen the skirt. The dotted lines in the Plate shew the width of the cloth, and the dark clear lines are intended to represent the shape of the shift. When the gores are sewed in, shifts are generally hollowed out at the back, and may either be also hollowed in front or have a flap cut, as seen in Fig. 2. The hollowing at the back is not so deep as in the front, therefore, great care must be taken in cutting the one not to injure the shape of the other; and in order to insure the two halves of each side being cut to correspond, it is advisable to cut the shape of the parts to be hollowed out in paper, to lay the paper on the linen, and cut by it. When the breadths are cut separately, as in some cases they must be, the seams on the shoulders should be sewed previously to the parts behind and before being hollowed. If the flap in front is preferred, it may either be cut straight down, as in Fig. 2, or in a slanting direction, as the shoulder in Fig. 6. This last plan is usually followed, and a button-hole is worked near the front of the shoulder-strap, which, being folded over to a button sewed on the shoulder-strap of the stays, neatly confines all straps, &c., in the fold.

SCALE FOR FIG. 6.

+-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+ | ———————— |First size.|Second size.|Third size.| +-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | |Length of shoulder-strap | 4 | 3½ | 3 | |Widest width of ditto | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¼ | |Sloped off to | ¾ | ¾ | ½ | |Length of plaited sleeve | 8 | 7 | 6 | |Depth of ditto | 2½ | 2 | 1½ | |Size of gusset | 2 | 1½ | 1½ | |Length of sleeve-band | 4½ | 3¾ | 2¾ | |Width of ditto | ½ | ½ | ½ | |Length of bosom gore |1 full nail| 1 | ¾ | |Width of ditto at the top| 1 | 1 | 1 | +-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+

There is another mode of cutting out the top of a shift, and, from its simplicity and economy, is preferable to any other. The shoulder-straps are cut separately from the skirt, which is, consequently, cut shorter, and is made quite straight at the top. The shift, after being gored or crossed, has little bosom gores put in front. The top is then hemmed, both before and behind, and the straps put on. A neat frill may be added, to give a finish to the whole.

The sleeves are sometimes cut out of the width of one of the breadths of the skirt, when the material is a little too wide; but unless you have linen of an awkward width by you, it is a wasteful plan, as the strip thus cut off is generally twice as long as the quantity required for the sleeves. Observe, if this plan be adopted, to cut off the length for the sleeves all in one piece, and not length by length from each separate breadth, as much waste would arise from so doing. If the sleeves are to be made as in Fig. 2, they may be cut in one length, sleeve and gusset together, down the selvage (see Fig. 17, 18, 19), and so many lengths in the width of the cloth. If they are to be made according to Fig. 6, an extra nail in length must be allowed for the plaiting. The gussets are reduced in size, according to the Scale, and a band to gather the sleeve into, at the bottom, is neatly stitched.

CROSSED SHIFTS.

PLATE 6. FIG. 3, 4, 5.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ | | Largest| Second | Third | | ———————— | size. | size. | size. | +----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ | |Yds. nls|Yds. nls|Yds. nls| |Width of material | 1 0| 14| 12| |Quantity for one, not including sleeves | 2 12|2¼ 0| 2 0| |Quantity for six, not including sleeves | 16 8|4½ 0| 12 0| |Length of skirt | 1 6|1¼ 0| 1 0| |Width of skirt, when sewed up, should be| 1 0| 14| 12| |Part to mark off at top and bottom, | | | | | at opposite corners | 10| 9| 8| |Width of skirt at the top, when sewed up| | | | | and double | 11| 10| 8| |Width of ditto at the bottom, when sewed| | | | | up, and double | 1 4|1 2| 1 0| |Sleeves for one | 6| 6| 5| |Sleeves for six | 1 5|1½ 0| 15| +----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+

Before crossing a shift, sew the 2 breadths or the 1½ breadth, whichever it happens to be, together, and next, after flattening the seams with your thumb nail, crease the skirt, so that these two seams shall lie exactly one upon the other, and tack or pin them firmly together; or, to give a neater effect, the seams are brought, one in front and the other behind, so as to divide it in exact thirds. Fig. 4 represents the skirt when sewn up, A A being intended for the seam. Measure off 1¼ nails at the left hand of the top B D, and on the right hand of the bottom B D of the skirt, and double it from D to D, as in Fig. 5; and that you may be sure your measurements are accurate, it is better to double it again upwards, at X and Y, so that B D at the bottom, should lie upon B D at the top, and the corner C upon C, as in Fig. 3. If they do not exactly correspond, the shift is not correctly folded. After pressing these creases with the hand, unfold C from C, as it was before (see Fig. 5), and cut evenly from D to D. The skirt must then be turned. The two wide ends are for the bottom—the two narrow ones for the top of the shift.

It is made up as follows:—After sewing and felling the seams, and hemming the bottom, the hem at the top must be turned down, as if for hemming, and then turned back again and sewed all round, which is much stronger than a common hem. The sleeves are generally set in plainly, excepting, of course, in those intended to be full, as in Fig. 6.

CHILD’S SHIFT.

PLATE 6. FIG. 9, 10, 11.

This is a particularly neat pattern for a child from five years up to any age, and is generally the first shift used after leaving off the little shirt which is seen in the baby-linen.

As these shifts consist of 1½ breadth of 9 yards long, an even number, as 2, 4, or 6, should be cut out at the same time to prevent waste.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+------------+ |Width of Irish linen | 12½ nails | |Length of ditto | 9 do. | |Number of breadths | 1½ breadth| |Width of shift at the top, when gored, and double | 8 nails | |Width at the bottom, when double | 11 do. | |Space left for shoulders | 1½ do. | |Depth of slit for lappets | 2 do. | |Depth of arm-hole | 2¾ do. | |Whole length of sleeve, including gusset | 4½ do. | |Depth of sleeve | 1½ do. | |Length of shoulder-flap | 3 do. | |Width of ditto | 1¼ do. | |Length of lining | 7 do. | |Width of ditto | 1¾ do. | +--------------------------------------------------+------------+

Two gores, of 2¼ nails at the top, and ¾ of a nail at the bottom, are cut off the whole breadth (see Fig. 9), which reduces the body to 8 nails at the top, and 11 at the bottom, which is the proper width of the shift. These gores are sewn on to the half-breadth, which makes it exactly correspond with the other side. After sewing the two halves together, leaving 2¾ nails from the top for the arm-holes, cut down the slits for the bosom flaps 2 nails deep, leaving 1½ nail space for the shoulders. Next, cut out the sleeve flaps (see Fig. 11) of 1¼ nail deep, and 3 nails long, and, after hemming them all round, sew them with firm small stitches to the shoulder. At the edge, B, sew on a piece of tape, in which make a button-hole, which buttons over the shoulder to the button, K, and confines all straps, as seen in the sleeve marked A, in Fig. 11, where the flap is represented as turned back over the shoulder, as it is when worn; whereas in the sleeve, marked B, the flap is unturned. The sleeves are hemmed all round, and then one end is turned up to form the gusset, to one side of which the other end of the sleeve is sewn, as in Fig. 17, 18, 19; they are then put plainly into the arm-hole, which must be previously hemmed.

The lining is put in last, and is turned down once a deep fold, all round. It is neatly felled inside to the shift. The lining is 7 nails long, and 1⅓ nail wide. It is sewn in a little below the arm-hole, and carried over the shoulder to the corresponding place on the other side of the shift. Strings are sewn to the points of the flaps, both before and behind. Children’s sleeves are sometimes fulled on the shoulder. The work should be close and strong. The flaps are sometimes made of fine lawn, edged with a cambric frill or worked muslin, and allowed to lie over the shoulder, outside the dress, which has a clean and neat appearance.

A SECRET WORTH KNOWING.

HOW TO SAVE ONE SEAM AND TWO FELLS IN MAKING UP TWO SHIFTS.

PLATE 6. FIG. 12, 13, 14, 15.

This is a useful hint for those who make up much linen at home. It is done as follows:—

Take 3 breadths of the wide-width cloth, and sew them all together like a bag; then lay two of the seams very exactly one upon the other, and either pin or tack them firmly together; fold the whole piece in half, width-wise, so as to have four thicknesses of linen lying upon one another. Cross it like a common shift, Fig. 15, measuring it top and bottom to see if it is even, and it will cut into four pieces, one of which, Fig. 12, will have no seam at all; one, Fig. 13, will have a straight seam down the middle; the other two, Fig. 14, have each a piece like a gore on one side. These shifts, when neatly made, are just as serviceable and as good as those cut in the usual way, and it saves a great deal of work.

PLATE 6. FIG. 8, 16.

This is a pretty variety of sleeve, and is most suitable for young children. It is intended to fall over the frock. Fig. 8 represents the shape of the sleeve when cut out, and Fig. 16 when it is finished. The sleeve is cut all in one piece, taking care that the slope of the flap, C, when turned back, corresponds with the slope of the sleeve, D. The sleeve and flap are frilled with cambric, work, or lace. The advantage of this shape is, that both sleeve and flap are in one.

TROWSERS OR DRAWERS.

PLATE 7.

These are worn by men, women, and children of all classes, and almost all ages, under the different names of trowsers and drawers. They are made in a great variety of ways. Those mentioned here are the kinds most generally approved. Drawers for ladies and children are usually made of calico, twill, and cambric muslin. Those ladies who are invalids, or who ride much, frequently wear flannel or wash-leather drawers, with or without white calico leglets. For men, drawers are composed of very strong twill, calico, linen, flannel, and stockinet.

CHILD’S TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a child’s first pair of trowsers, and should be made of fine twill or calico. Each leg is cut in one piece, and, when folded, is 4½ nails wide; therefore, to prevent waste, the material should be 9 nails in width.

Cut off the 2 breadths for the two legs, of the proper length, and observe the following directions:—

SCALE.

+------------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Width of material | 9 | | Length of each breadth | 9 | | Fold the breadth in half its width | — | | Measure from A to B, Fig. 2 | 4 | | From E to C | 2 | | From F to B | 4 | +------------------------------------+--------+

Slope off from A to C, and cut from A to B, taking off ½ a nail from the width at the top.

In making, sew up the legs and join them at the seam in front, leaving them open behind, with a broad hem on each side, formed by laying a strip of the same material at each end, which is run at the edge on the wrong side, turned over to hide the stitches, and hemmed or back-stitched near the edge. The legs are then tucked, and the work or frill sewn on. The whole is next set into a band, ¾ of a nail deep when doubled, and 5 nails long, which buttons behind. Shoulder-straps, with button-holes, are attached to the trowsers by means of buttons before and behind. This plan is far more convenient than that of sewing on the straps, as, when they are only buttoned on, if it is necessary to change the trowsers in the course of the day, they may be simply unbuttoned without undressing the child, and the clean trowsers fastened to the shoulder-straps, which still remain over the shoulder.

[Illustration: PLATE 7

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 20

Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 21

Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 22

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 17 Fig 19

Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 18]

A CHILD’S LARGER TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 3, 4.

This resembles Fig. 1 and 2 in every respect, excepting that the top is sloped or hollowed at the back.

Procure your material 10½ nails wide, to admit exactly of one leg being cut in the width.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of each breadth | 10½ | | Fold it in half, letting D be the double part | — | | From the top to B | 1 | | From B to A | 4½ | | From B to F | 4 | | From F to E, or the half-breadth | 5¼ | | From F to H | 5½ | +-----------------------------------------------+--------+

Slope from G to E, and again from E to C, through A; after which, cut at the top of one fold from A to B, and of the other from B to C. Take care to cut the pair to match, so that the outer, or hollowed parts of the legs should rise, the one towards the right, and the other towards the left side. These are made up in a similar manner to Fig. 1.

GIRL’S TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 5, 6.

Each leg of these trowsers is also made in the entire breadth.

Procure your material 10 nails broad.

Cut each breadth 8 nails long, not including the tucks, which, if they are deep, will add about 2 nails more. Supposing it but 8 nails long, cut as follows, after folding the breadth in half its width.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | 1 | | From B to C | 4 | | From C to E | 3 | | From F to G, or the entire half-breadth | 5 | +-----------------------------------------+--------+

Slope from E to G. Cut in a straight line from G, past C, to H. Cut one fold from C to B, and the other from H to B.

If the tucks require 2 nails length in addition to the above size, continue the width of the legs, the same as from C to E (3 nails), to the end.

In making up, sew the trowsers up before and behind, and cut two slits, one on each side, to the depth of 3 nails. These slits have broad hems laid on all round them; to form which, cut two strips of 4½ nails long, and 2 nails broad; split each length down the middle, to within 1½ nail from the end (see Fig. 2). This strap is laid close to the edge and run all round the two sides of the slit, turned over, and hemmed down. This false hem greatly strengthens these slits.

The whole is then set into two bands, one for the front, and the other for the back of the trowsers. These bands are 5½ nails long, and ¾ of a nail wide, when doubled. A button-hole is strongly worked, in a slanting direction, at each corner of the bands, by which they are fastened to two buttons sewed upon the stays.

TROWSERS FOR A BOY OR GIRL.

PLATE 7. FIG. 7, 8, 9.

This is a pretty body and trowsers, and is very suitable to little boys, especially if they are at all delicate, being particularly warm.

The body is composed of one middle piece, 6 nails long, and two side pieces, 3½ nails long each. They are 2½ nails deep, and, when sewed together, the middle is hollowed so as to make it only 2¼ nails.

The trowsers are made as follows:—

Width of material, 12 nails. Length of each breadth, 11½ nails. Fold each breadth in two (see Fig. 8).

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | 3½ | | From A to C | 4½ | | From C to H, half the breadth, or | 6 | | From C to E | 6 | | From E to F | 5 | +-----------------------------------+--------+

Slope from H to B; also from H, past F, to G, at the top of the breadth, whence it is cut to E, for the hollowed fold, while the under one is cut straight from E to F.

This trowser opens at the side; there is also a small opening in front (see K, Fig. 7). The body is hemmed all round, and sewed on plainly to the front band of the trowser, but it is left loose, as in Fig. 7, beyond the arm-holes on each side. The two bands button to each other at the sides, the body ties behind, and may, or may not be fastened also to the band of the trowsers at each side, having button-holes to correspond with the buttons. A little pocket should be sewed inside the slit down the sides, as in Fig. 9, where it is represented as if drawn out, or turned inside out.

LEGLETS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 10.

These are useful to put over the legs of children’s trowsers, when they are soiled or tumbled, before it is necessary to put on an entirely clean pair. They are usually made of some finer material than the trowser itself, and look well for an evening, when they are of fine cambric muslin, with open work, or small tucks. They are fastened by three or four buttons and button-holes or loops, the buttons being sewed to the trowsers. Sometimes the trowser itself only reaches to the knee, and leglets are always attached to it, by means of small buttons; they should be put on pretty closely, to make the leglets fit well, say six or eight on each leg; button-holes are made to correspond in the leglets. They are especially advantageous for children who play a great deal out of doors, or who live in a town, they will sometimes soil one or two pair in a day.

WOMEN’S DRAWERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 11, 12.

These are formed of two separate legs sewed into a band, which is made to button before or behind, at pleasure. For a moderate size, Fig. 12 will be a good guide.

Width of material, 14 nails.

Length of each breadth, 15 nails.

Fold each breadth in half its width, letting D be the doubled part, and measure as follows:—

SCALE.

+------------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B is | 4 | | From B to C | 8 | | From C to G | 7 | | From C to E | 7 | | Cut in a straight line from A to E | — | | From F to G | 1 | | From F to S | 5 | +------------------------------------+--------+

Cut in a straight line from S to G; cut also from E to Z, the point Z being within ½ a nail from the side. Hem the bottoms of the legs, after sewing up the seams, and hem round the slits, or open part; set them into the band, making them overlap each other (see Fig. 11). The band is 11 nails long, and 3 nails wide.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 7. FIG. 13, 14.

Some persons, both ladies and children, wear bodies attached to their drawers, as in the figure, which represents a child’s size.

Procure your material 10½ nails wide.

Cut each breadth 9 nails long.

Let D be the doubled part, and mark as follows:—(Fig. 14.)

SCALE.

+-------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | 2½ | | From A to E | 4 | | From E to B | 5¼ | | Slope from B to B | — | | From E to G | 4 | | From the top to G | 1 | +-------------------+--------+

Cut from G to H, H being 4½ nails from the doubled side.

Cut from H to C.

Let the body be 2½ nails deep, and 10 nails long, fold it in four, cut out the arm-holes, and sew on the shoulder-straps.

In making up the trowsers, sew the legs together in front, after they have been run up, leaving them open behind, and laying on a broad tape (see T T, Fig. 13), sew on the body, and it is completed.

TURKISH TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 15, 16.

These Turkish or full trowsers are often worn by little girls.

Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit one leg exactly in the breadth.

Cut each breadth the proper length, say 9 nails long.

Fold each breadth in half, letting D be the doubled part (Fig. 16.)

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B, or the width of the doubled breadth | 5 | | From B to C | 4 | | From the top to E | 1 | | From E to F | 4 | +--------------------------------------------------+--------+

Cut one fold from E to F, and the other from E to G. Cut from G to C in a straight line.

In making, sew up from B to C, and either gather the bottom, A B, into a band, to which a frill is set on, or else make a deep hem to admit of a ribbon, which draws it up to the proper size, and ties in a bow. To this hem is sewed a broad frill or handsome piece of work. The latter is the most convenient plan of the two for the washerwoman, as the leg will lie quite flatly to be ironed.

TROWSERS FOR A LITTLE BOY.

PLATE 7. FIG. 17, 18, 19.

This is a particularly good pattern, and very suitable for a boy.

Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit of one leg in the breadth.

Cut each breadth 7½ nails long.

Double the leg so as to leave 2 nails unfolded, or rather, fold it to within two nails of the selvage. Let D, Fig. 19, be the doubled part. From A to B is 2 nails, and is not double. From B to C is 4 nails, the one fold being cut in a slight curve from B to C, and in a sweep from A to C. The bottom of the leg is 3 nails wide. Slope from G to C, G being nearly 2 nails from the bottom.

The body is 10 nails long, and 2½ nails deep; fold it in four, and cut out the arm-holes (see Fig. 18).

In making, sew up each leg from K to G, and hem round every other part; next, make the body, hemming it all round, after which, sew the legs firmly to the body, making the flap, A L C, of one leg, overlap or lie across the flap of the other leg. These two flaps, after being firmly set into the band, are farther secured by back-stitching them together along the dotted line. Fig. 17.

MEN’S DRAWERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 20, 21, 22.

These are men’s strong drawers, made of coarse twill or calico.

Procure your material 14 nails wide.

Cut each breadth 13 nails long.

Fold the breadths in half, letting D, Fig. 20, be the doubled part. The drawers are quite straight at the top, the piece, C H F, being an extra bit put in (see Fig. 20).

[Illustration: PLATE 8

Fig 1 Fig 4 Fig 12

Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15

Fig 5 Fig 16 Fig 19

Fig 2 Fig 6 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 20

Fig 3 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 21 Fig 25

Fig 9 Fig 22

Fig 10 Fig 23 Fig 24

Fig 11]

SCALE.

+-------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | 3¾ | | From C to E | 4¼ | | From the top to G | 5 | | From F to E | ½ | +-------------------+--------+

Cut from G to B, and one fold from G to E; the other is from G to F.

A triangular piece is put in at the top of the back, of 3 nails in continuation from F to H.

The pair of drawers has two bands of about 7 nails long each, and 1½ nail deep, when doubled.

In making, sew up the legs, and put on the extra piece at the back. Sew the two legs together at the back, and hem the slit on each side in front. Set each leg into a separate band, leaving them open before and behind. Work four little oylet-holes in the band behind, to admit tapes, which are laced through them and tie; in front, metal buttons are put, and button-holes made. Down each leg, in the front, a broad tape or piece of strong calico is laid, to strengthen it. A slit of about 2 nails long is made at the bottom of each leg. Broad tape is laid on round each leg at the bottom, forming a sort of hem, and oylet holes are worked on each side of the slit, for tape to come out at, which draws them to the proper size.

Fig. 20 represents the back of the drawers cut out.

Fig. 21 represents the back of the drawers made up.

Fig. 22 represents the front of the drawers made up.

WOMAN’S NIGHT-JACKET.

PLATE 8. FIG. 1, 2, 3.

SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES.

+--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ | | Woman. | Girl of |Girl of | | | | 18 yrs. | 12 yrs. | +--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| |Width of material | 14 | 14 | 12 | |Quantity required for one | 2 10 | 2 3 | 1 13 | |Quantity required for six |15 1 |13 2 |10 14 | |Quantity required for twelve |31 8 |26 4 |21 12 | |Whole length of body to be doubled | 1 8 | 1 4 | 1 0 | |Space to leave for shoulders | 3 | 2¾ | 2½ | |Length of sleeves down the selvage | 10 | 8 | 6½ | |Width of ditto, two in breadth | 7 | 7 | 6 | |Length of collar down the selvage | 8 | 7 | 6½ | |Width of ditto, or four in the width | 3½ | 3½ | 3 | |Length of wristband down the selvage | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ | |Width of ditto, or four in the breadth| 3½ | 3½ | 3 | |Length of binder down the selvage | 4½ | 3½ | 3 | |Width of ditto | 1 | 1 | 1 | |Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2¾ | 2½ | |Size of neck-gusset | 1½ | 1¼ | 1 | |Width of frill | 1¼ | 1 | ¾ | +--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

Night jackets for the higher classes are made of linen, lawn, cambric muslin, and fine calico; also of dimity and twilled calico; and for the lower orders, of linen or calico. The calico should be soft and strong; and the unbleached or grey calico, as it is usually called by Linen Drapers, is warmer and often more durable than the white.

Fig. 1 represents the plan or picture of a piece of cloth of the proper width, on which all the parts for forming a woman’s jacket are accurately marked, with the exception of the shoulder-straps, which, as they do not fit in, might be made of any extra bits.

Cut out the two breadths of the skirt in one length, to avoid a seam on the shoulder. Fold it very exactly in half, and, after leaving 3 nails at each end of the folded side, to allow for the shoulders, slit open the neck from A to G, after which, measure carefully and find the middle of the neck, C, and slit it down to the bottom, D, to form the opening in front of the jacket.

The sleeves, which are 10 nails long, and the two cut in the width, are either sloped off towards the wrist, fulled into a wristband, as in Fig. 10, or else neatly run, at a sufficient distance from the edge, to form a kind of frill (Fig. 9). This running is done in two rows, extended nearly all round the cuff, and neatly stretched upon a piece of tape, which is laid inside, and carried all round the cuff.

Fig. 3 represents a plan for cutting out twelve jackets, which is the most economical number, cut out at once, to avoid waste. The pieces in the Plate are marked with the initial letter for their use, and the width of the piece, thus, S 7, signifies sleeve 7 nails wide. On the left hand of the plan is marked the length of each piece, and on the right hand is set down the number of those lengths required to be cut to form the set complete, thus, 12 L means 12 lengths. The frills are generally of fine lawn or cambric, or else corded, jaconet, checked, or other muslins.

NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 5.

SCALE.

+------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ | | | | | | | Woman. | Girl of | Girl of | | | | 18 yrs. | 14 yrs. | |------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| |Width of material, if gored | 15 | 14 | 12 | |Width of gore to be cut off each | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 | | side at the top | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 | |Width of the bottom will be | 18½ | 17½ | 16 | |Width across the top will be | 11½ | 10½ | 8 | |Quantity required for one | 4 1 | 3 8 | 3 0 | |Quantity required for two | 7 13 | 6 8 | 5 11 | |Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1¼ 0 | 1 0 | |Depth of slit in front | 6 | 6 | 5 | |Space to leave for shoulders | 2½ | 2½ | 2 | |Slope of shoulders | 1 | 1 | ¾ | |Width of binders | 2 | 1½ | 1½ | |Length of ditto down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 | |Width of sleeves or two in | | | | | the breadth | 7½ | 7 | 6 | |Length of sleeves down the selvage | 9 | 8 | 8 | |Width of wristband (if required) | 2 | 2 | 2 | |Length of wristband down the selvage| 4 | 3½ | 3 | |Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2 | 3 | |Depth of frill | 1¼ | 1 | ¾ | +------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

This shape is not so much worn as that of Fig. 4, nor perhaps has it so neat and finished an appearance, but on many accounts it is the most desirable, being in the first place, more economical; it also washes more easily, and above all, is particularly convenient in time of sickness, when it is very essential to a weak or suffering person to be able to draw open the gown at the neck and wrists, so as to have full play for the arms in changing her linen, or having blisters, leeches, &c. applied; whereas those night dresses confined at the neck in collars are very irksome, and cause much unnecessary suffering in being removed. The scale and plans so clearly explain the size, shape, &c. that nothing remains to be said, except that a band is sometimes worn round the waist, with a narrow frill sewn round the ends, which are sloped off, according to fancy.

It is better economy to cut three or six gowns together, as the gussets, binders, &c. take about the third of a breadth, so that in cutting out one, there is an unavoidable waste of the other two-thirds of a breadth. The two sleeves cut in the width, and are, for the largest size, 9 nails long.

ANOTHER NIGHT GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 4.

It is more economical to buy your material of a sufficient width to merely gore it, if only one gown is to be cut out.

It is better to cross the skirt, and use 1½ breadth of very wide material, if six are to be cut.

SCALE FOR CROSSED SKIRT.

+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+ | | | Girl of | Girl of | | ———————— | Woman. | 18 yrs.| 14 yrs. | +---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+ | | Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| |Width of material | 18 | 16 | 14 | |Quantity required for six | 18 14 | 16 15 | 15 0 | |Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1 6 | 1 3 | |Width of ditto | 1½ breadth|1½ breadth|1½ breadth| +---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+ |Piece to mark off at top and | 7½| 7 | 6 | | bottom for crossing |leaving 10½|leaving 9 |leaving 8 | +---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+ |Width of bottom when crossed | 21 | 18 | 16 | |Width of top when crossed | 15 | 14 | 12 | |Length of sleeve down the selvage| 9 | 8 | 7 | |Width of sleeve | 9 | 8 | 7 | |Length of binder down the selvage| 10 | 8 | 7 | |Width of binder | 1½| 1½| 1½| |Length of collar down the selvage| 8 | 6½| 5 | |Width of collar | 3 | 2½| 2¼| |Length of wristband | | | | | down the selvage | 4 | 3½| 3 | |Width of wristband | 2 | 2 | 2 | |Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2 | 2 | |Size of neck-gusset | 2 | 1 | 1 | |Depth of slit in front | 6½| 6 | 6 | |Space to leave for shoulders | 3 | 2½| 2 | |Width of frill | 1¼| 1 | ¾| +---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+

SCALE FOR A GORED GOWN.

+----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ | | Woman. | Girl of | Girl of | | ———————— | | 18 yrs. | 14 yrs. | +----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| | Width of material | 15 | 15 | 14 | | Piece to be gored off at each | | | | | end of the top | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ | | Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1 6 | 1 3 | | Width of sleeve | 7½ | 7½ | 7 | | Width of binders | 2 | 2 | 1½ | +----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

All the other parts are the same as in the scale for the crossed gown.

In cutting out six crossed gowns, tear off the 9 breadths for the skirts, allowing 1½ breadth to each; after which, cut off the 6 lengths (9 nails long each) for the sleeves; two sleeves cut in the width. Next cut off a piece 10 nails long, which divide width-way into twelve binders of 1½ nail wide each. Afterwards, cut off another breadth of 8 nails long, to divide width-way into six collars of 4 nails width. The gussets will require two breadths of 3 nails deep, to be divided width-way also, in six of 3 nails width.

The wristbands are 4 nails long; and as only nine of 2 nails width can be cut in 1 breadth, the remaining three must be cut off a second breadth, which will leave sufficient cloth over, exactly to cut the 12 neck-gussets, in two rows deep of 2 nails square. By this arrangement, no waste whatever is made.

The one gored gown is cut according to the scale; Fig. 8 is a bosom-bit, which adds much to the strength of the slit. It is impossible to cut out one of these gowns alone, without a little waste.

PLATE 8. FIG. 6.

This is an exceedingly neat looking night-dress, and for full size is cut according to the following dimensions. Cut two breadths of 1 yard wide, and 1½ yard long each, and sew up the seams, leaving 3 nails from the top for arm-holes. Cut out two shoulder-pieces according to Fig. 7, which represents half, the letter D being the doubled part. If it is made of calico, put a neat piping round the one shoulder-piece, as it materially strengthens the night-dress; and after fulling the skirt evenly round to the other, and setting in the sleeves, lay the upper shoulder-piece over the lower one. Pipe and frill it up the neck, and if preferred, a collar may be added, with a second frill above. If the night-dress is made of linen, it must be neatly stitched instead of piped. The sleeves are 8 nails square, and the wristband, as in Fig. 11, 4 nails square, to which a frill is added.

FLANNEL WAISTCOAT FOR A LADY.

PLATE 8. FIG. 12.

Cut a piece of flannel 12 nails wide, and 7 nails deep; fold it in two, and at 2 full nails from the middle or doubled part, cut the arm-holes, which are 2 full nails wide, and 1¼ nail deep, leaving 2 nails for half the back; hollow the front half a nail. At the bottom of the waistcoat, immediately under the arm-holes, cut a slit upwards to the distance of 3 nails, and put into these slits, gores of 3 nails wide at the bottom, sloped off to a point, being 3 nails long. These gores are differently cut to most others, being sloped equally on both sides, instead of having one side straight, so that the point is in a straight line with the middle of the gore at the bottom (see Fig. 12).

Cut two other slits to admit of bosom gores of similar shape, but smaller size, being 1¾ nail broad, and 1¾ nail long. They are put in 1 nail from the shoulder-strap.

In making up, herring-bone all round the waistcoat; the slits and gores, and the seams also, are herring-boned with strong thread, the seams being turned flatly back, and laid side by side on the finger, so that the one row of herring-boning shall join the two compactly together (see Fig. 15). Some persons lay a broad tape, say a nail wide, down the front, on which the buttons are sewed, and button-holes worked. Tape shoulder-straps complete the whole. This waistcoat buttons in the front.

A BOY’S WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 13, 14.

The following size is suitable for a child of 12 years old:—

The waistcoat is made in three parts; the middle piece should be 7 nails wide, and 6½ nails deep; the side-pieces must be the same depth, and 5 nails wide. Sew up the seams, and fold the waistcoat in four, like a pinafore, then cut out the arm-holes, which, while thus doubled, are 1½ nail in width, and the same in depth; the waistcoat is then opened, and hollowed out in the front (see Fig. 13).

In making up, tape is sewed all round the edge, at the inside, and broad tapes down the sides, in which the button-holes are cut. Straps are sewed on, and the whole is finished.

A WAISTCOAT FOR AN INVALID BOY OF THE WORKING CLASS.

PLATE 8. FIG. 16.

Take a breadth and a half of flannel, each 9 nails long, and sew them together, leaving them open in the front. Fold the waistcoat in four, and cut the shoulders, and slits for the arm-holes, as in a pinafore; the shoulders are 1½ nail deep, and the arm-holes 2½ nails long. Hollow it a little at the top, and after sewing up the shoulders, gather it at the top into a tape the proper length (say 5 nails). Put in sleeves without gussets, which are 7 nails long, and 4 nails wide before being sewed up; hem the fronts, and lay on a broad tape at the inside of the hem, in which the button-holes are made; herring-bone the bottom and sleeves.

A MAN’S UNDER WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 17, 18.

This is generally made of fine calico, and is cut out according to the Plate.

For the back (Fig. 17), cut your paper pattern 9 nails long, and 7 nails wide: double it in half its width, and, as in the Plate, letting D be the doubled part, mark as follows:—

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to the top | 1½ | | From B to the doubled side | 1½ | | C is half way, and from C to the side F | 1½ | | From E to the doubled side | 2 | +-----------------------------------------+--------+

Curve from A to B, and from A through C to E.

The front is cut as follows:—Let your pattern be 11 nails long, and 8 nails wide (see Plate 8, Fig. 18).

SCALE.

+-------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B is | 9 | | From B to C | 2 | | From C to D | 2½ | | The shoulder, from D, slopes | ½ | | Length of the shoulder | 2 | +-------------------------------+--------+

The arm-hole is sloped, and is rather difficult to manage, but by looking at the Plate, and following the directions, as nearly as possible, the same shape may be attained.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------+---------+ | | Nails. | | From the arm-hole, S, to the side | 3½ | | From the bottom, T, to the side | 5 | | From the point, R, to the top | 2 | | From the side to R | 1 | +-----------------------------------+---------+

Curve from R to the bottom, also from D to B, and cut out the arm-hole.

In making up, sew the pieces together, lay on a broad piece of calico all down the front, lay a tape round the neck, and set on your buttons down the front, with button-holes to correspond.

This shape, but varying of course in size, will do for boys of all ages.

BOY’S VEST OR UPPER WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 19, 20.

This is made of cloth, jean, or nankeen. The size here given, would suit a boy ten or eleven years old.

The vest is in three parts, viz.—one back and two fronts. To cut out the front (Fig. 19), let your paper pattern be 3½ nails wide, by 4¼ nails long.

SCALE.

+-------------------------+---------+ | | Nails. | | From the corner to E is | 2¾ | | From the top to A | ½ | | From the side to A | ½ | | From B to each side | 1¾ | | From C to the top | 1 | +-------------------------+---------+

Curve in for the arm-hole, from E to A, cut from A to B, and curve from B to C.

For the back (Fig. 20), let your paper be 5 nails long, by 3¼ nails wide.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From the top to A | ¼ | | From the corner to B | 1¼ | | From the side to C | 1 | | From the top to C | ¾ | | From the top to F | 2½ | | From the corner to E | ¼ | +----------------------+--------+

Curve slightly from A to B, cut in a straight line from B to C, hollow for the arm-hole from C to F, cutting into the cloth about 1¼ nail, slope from F to E.

In making up, join the two shoulders together, then sew E G, Fig. 19, to F E, Fig. 20; line it, bind with galloon or tape round the neck, arm-holes, waist, and up the fronts, put on buttons, and make button-holes to correspond in front. Buttons are also put on round the waist, to which the trowsers are to button, as no braces are worn with this vest.

CHILD’S NIGHT VEST.

PLATE 8. FIG. 21, 22.

Some children are in the habit (when in bed) of kicking off their sheets; and it is very desirable for such to wear fine flannel or demet waistcoats under their night-gowns in winter, and calico ones in summer, to prevent their catching cold. These waistcoats or vests, if for children under five or six, may be cut two in the width of the flannel, and about 8, 10, or 12 nails long, according to the size of the child. After cutting off the pieces required, fold each in half its length, and sew up the side-seams, leaving 1½ nail from the top on each side, to form the arm-holes, which are neatly herring-boned round. The top is hollowed thus: leave about 1¼ nail on each folded side for the shoulders, and hollow down to 1½ nail in front, for the bosom, and to 1 nail behind, for the back. Herring-bone flatly all round, and the vest is completed.

CHILD’S DAY VEST.

PLATE 8. FIG. 23, 24.

Delicate children are often recommended to wear flannel shirts or vests next their skin. They should be of the finest flannel, with plenty of nap, which should be next the skin. These are cut much in the same shape as babies’ second shirts (see Plate 2, Fig. 30), excepting that the back is hollowed out, and it has no sleeves. Two shirts might be cut in the width, of 8 or 10 nails long. When folded in two, and sewed up at the seams, leaving 1½ nail for the arm-hole, the front should be cut. Leave 1¼ nail in each folded side for the shoulders, cut down nearly straight to 1½ nail for a front flap, and slope down behind to the same depth.

BATHING GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 25.

Bathing gowns are made of blue or white flannel, stuff, calimanco, or blue linen. As it is especially desirable that the water should have free access to the person, and yet that the dress should not cling to, or weigh down the bather, stuff or calimanco are preferred to most other materials: the dark coloured gowns are the best for several reasons, but chiefly because they do not shew the figure, and make the bather less conspicuous than she would be in a white dress.

As the width of the materials, of which a bathing gown is made, varies, it is impossible to say of how many breadths it should consist. The width at the bottom, when the gown is doubled, should be about 15 nails: fold it like a pinafore, slope 3½ nails for the shoulders, cut or open slits of 3½ nails long for the arm-holes; set in plain sleeves 4½ nails long, 3½ nails wide, and make a slit in front 5 nails long.

In making up, delicacy is the great object to be attended to. Hem the gown at the bottom, gather it into a band at the top, and run in strings; hem the opening and the bottom of the sleeves, and put in strings. A broad band should be sewed in about half a yard from the top, to button round the waist.

WOMEN’S CAPS.

Women’s caps are generally made of checked, spotted, clear, or twilled muslin, widow’s lawn, and if for night-caps for the poor, sometimes of soft fine calico. The borders are of corded, cambric, jaconet, or clear muslin, and are sometimes, for ladies’ caps, edged with narrow lace, or are made entirely of hemmed net.

WOMAN’S DAY OR NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 1, 2

This is a favourite shape for a day-cap among the poor.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.| |Width of checked muslin | 1½ 0 | |Width of crown to cap, four in the width of material, | 6 | | or, | | |Length of crown down the selvage | 6½ | |Width of puffing or head-piece, twenty-four in width | | | of material, or, | 1 | |Length of ditto down the selvage | 14 | |Width of bands to confine the puffing, 48 in the width,| ½ | | or, | | |Length of bands down the selvage | 7 | |Width of strings, forty-eight in the breadth | ½ | |Length of strings down the selvage | 7 | |Quantity of material for one cap | 14 | |Quantity of material for twenty-four | 4 3 | |Length of bordering to each, three breadths of | 16 | |Depth of bordering down the selvage | 1¼ | +-------------------------------------------------------+---------+

Observe, that in the Plates the letter D always stands for the doubled part of the muslin.

In cutting out these caps, it is by far the most economical to cut out 24 at a time, as, if half that number is cut, half the width of the length of cloth from which the puffing is cut, is wasted, whereas the 24 exactly fit in.

The crown must be rounded off at the top, for which purpose, double it in half its width, and at 2 nails from the top corner each way, round, or slope off the piece from A to B (see Plate 9, Fig. 1).

The cap is made up as follows:—

Double the bands in two, and turn down the edges as if for sewing. Hem the crown-piece with a very narrow hem up each side, to the distance of half a nail, and sew it firmly to each end of one of the bands; after which, whip and stroke evenly the remaining part of the crown, and sew it to the rest of the band in the middle. To the other side of the band, full on the head-piece or puffing, which is afterwards confined on the other side by being whipped and sewed to the second band. The double border is sewed on in front, and a single one behind, where previously there has been a pretty deep hem made, to admit of strings to draw behind. These strings are sewed into the cap, each at the opposite end of the hem to that on which it comes out. The strings are hemmed at the end, being either pointed or rounded, according to taste. Some ladies prefer their being 1 nail wide and rounded at the end, with a narrow frill or edging sewed on to the distance of 3 or 4 nails round the ends.

A VERY NEAT NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 3, 4, 5, 6.

This, when made of checked muslin, with a border of corded muslin, has a very pretty appearance, and is particularly comfortable for a night-cap, as it sets close to the head.

[Illustration: PLATE 9

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 17

Fig 3 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 18

Fig 28 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 19

Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 24

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 25

Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 26]

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------------+-----------+ | | Yds. nls. | |Best width of material | 18 | |Length of head-piece down the selvage | 14 | |Width of ditto | 4½ | |Length of horse-shoe down the selvage | 3½ | |Width of ditto | 2½ | |Length of strings down the selvage | 7 | |Width of ditto | ½ | |Quantity of material for eight | 2 3 | |Quantity of bordering, 3 breadths of muslin in width | 16 | |Depth of ditto | 1¼ | +-----------------------------------------------------+-----------+

The most economical number of caps of this pattern to cut at once, is eight, and should be done as follows, to prevent waste (see Fig. 3). Tear off two lengths of 14 nails, which, when torn each in four, will form the eight head-pieces. The horse-shoe crowns must be cut in two rows deep, four in each row, of 2½ nails wide, which will require 10 nails of the breadth, leaving a piece 8 nails wide and 7 nails long. This piece will cut the eight pairs of strings, which are each half a nail wide, and 7 nails long. After cutting out the cap, shape the head-pieces according to Fig. 4 in the Plate, by which it will be seen that 1¼ nail is taken off in a direct line from A to B. The piece for the horse-shoe crown must be folded, and rounded carefully at the top, and then sloped off in a direct line, thus cutting off half a nail from each side.

In making up the cap, place the straight part of the head-piece in front, and put two runners, besides hem, at equal distances from each other in front, say ¾ of a nail. Whip the back neatly, and after hemming the horse-shoe crown, sew the head-piece firmly to it. Some people hem a cord round the horse-shoe which gives it a greater firmness, and looks like a piping when the head-piece is sewed in, as it ought to be, to the bottom, instead of the top of the hem. A hem is made at the bottom of the cap for a string to draw. Double borders in front, a single one behind, and the strings sewed on, complete the cap.

A YOUNG SERVANT’S NEAT DAY-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 7, 8.

This shape is generally made of clear muslin, widow’s lawn, or jaconet, and is particularly adapted for girls on first going to service, from its neat simplicity.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------------------+----------+ | | Nails. | |Best width of material | 16 or 24 | |Width of cap | 8 | |Length down the selvage | 5 | |Quantity required for four caps, if yard wide | 10 | +----------------------------------------------+----------+

The cap is folded in half the width, and cut according to Fig. 7. The side marked D is the doubled part. Mark on the opposite side 2 nails from the top, E, and slope or hollow out a piece from E to H very gradually, letting the greater width of the piece thus hollowed out not exceed half a nail.

Next slope off gradually from H to L at the distance of ½ a nail from the bottom; after which, cut the straight line E K, which is 1 nail in length, the letter K being situated about ¾ of a nail from the side and 1¼ from the top, and then slope gradually to M. In making up the cap, sew from E to K, and gather in the top from K to M, as in Fig. 8. A single or double border is put in front. This is a small size.

Fig. 18, 19, 27, and 28 are different shaped strings for caps.

ANOTHER NEAT CAP FOR SERVANTS.

PLATE 9. FIG. 9, 10.

This shape is particularly liked by the poor, from the ease with which it is made up and washed, as, upon undrawing the string, it opens readily at the top, and lies quite flat to be ironed.

As the shape is peculiar, if many are to be cut at once, it would be the least wasteful plan to cut out on a doubled piece of paper, the pattern of the cap, according to Fig. 9; open it out and lay it on the material in such directions as to cut to most advantage. If only one is to be cut, procure a piece of muslin 8 nails wide and 5½ nails long; which, when folded evenly in half its width, shape as follows, according to the Plate. The side marked D is the doubled part; from E at the bottom to F is 2¼ nails. From the top, G to H, measure 2¼ nails, and cut off in a sloping line from I, at the top of the doubled corner, to H, again cut from H to F, after which cut off from F to about ½ a nail above E, and then the shape of the cap is formed.

Strings of the usual size, ½ nail wide and 7 nails long, complete the cap.

In making it up, sew from H to Y, and then hem all round the open part along Y to I, and sew on a full frill of ¾ nail deep, and about 18 nails long. Afterwards hem the front and back of the cap, put double borders in front, and a single one behind, of 1 nail deep, and 3 breadths of 16 or 18 nails wide.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 9. FIG. 11, 12.

This is a very simple shape, and for washing and making up is equally convenient with Fig 10. It answers well for a bonnet cap for ladies, in which case it might be made of net or tulle, with a quilling or lace border.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------+----------+ | | Yds. nls.| |Best width of material | 1 2 | |Width of cap without runners | 4 | |Length of cap down the selvage | 9 | |Sloped off at the bottom from C to A | ½ | +-------------------------------------+----------+

Fold the cap in half its length, making D the doubled part (see Fig. 11). Sew and fell from A to B, to the depth of 1 nail, and hem round the rest of the opening behind, to admit of a ribbon. Let there be two runners besides the hem in front, to admit of tape or narrow ribbon. The border must depend upon the purpose for which the cap is intended: if for a night-cap, a double border in front and single behind will be required: if for a bonnet cap, a double border or quilling only, in front will be sufficient. It may be as well also to remark, that if it is meant for a night-cap, the length of the cap down the selvage should be greater, say 11 or 12 nails; and the width of the material, to cut to the best advantage, must, of course, be either exactly the same, or double.

A NEAT SCHOOL-GIRL’S CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 13, 14.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+ | | Yds. nls. | |Best width of material | 1 8 | |Length of the crown down the selvage | 6 | |Width of the crown, or three in the breadth | 8 | |Length of the head-piece down the selvage | 8 | |Width of the head-piece, or twelve in the breadth | 2 | |Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 0 | |Quantity required for twelve caps with strings | 2 12 | +--------------------------------------------------+-----------+

This pattern needs little further explanation, the shape and size are so clearly given in the Plate. The head-piece is sloped off at the ears, beginning to cut at 1 nail above the corner, to 1 nail beyond the corner, at the bottom of the cap.

This cap is for school girls, and is particularly neat if of checked muslin with corded muslin frills.

A FAVOURITE CAP FOR LADIES AND POOR WOMEN.

PLATE 9. FIG. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.| |Best width of material | 1 8 | |Width of crown-piece, three in the width | 8 | |Length of ditto down the selvage | 6½ | |Width of head-piece, twelve in the breadth | 2 | |Length of ditto down the selvage | 8 | |Length of weepers (if wanted) down the selvage | 2½ | |Width of ditto, sixteen in the breadth | 1½ | |Length of bands down the selvage (if wanted) | 1 14 | |Width of ditto, twelve in the width | 2 | |Quantity required for twelve caps, without extras | 2 2 | |Quantity for twelve, if with weepers | 2 5 | |Quantity for twelve, if complete with bands | 4 3 | |Width of bordering | 1 | |Length of ditto, two breadths width | 1 8 | +--------------------------------------------------+---------+

This cap is pretty and not expensive if made without the band and weepers, which, of course, add much to the cost; twelve is the best number to cut out at once. They are generally made for ladies of sprigged muslin, when the head-piece should be of strong muslin or fine calico. The borders are cambric, muslin, or net, edged with Valenciennes lace, or other neat trimming. The weepers are also frilled and edged, as also the rounded ends of the band. The crown is sloped off a little at the corner, as seen in Fig. 16, at A, which is about 2 nails from the corner. The weepers are also shaped to a point, as in Fig. 19 (see B). The band (Fig. 18) is gathered in at about 1½ nail from the end, which is rounded, with edging sewed on. The middle of the band is plaited, and sewed firmly on to the middle of the head-piece, in front.

A NEAT COMFORTABLE DAY OR NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 20.

This is a shape particularly suitable for day-caps for young servants, or night-caps for any age or station. If intended for day-caps, they should be made of clear or jaconet muslin; if for night-caps, of check or calico.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------------+----------+ | | Yds. nls.| |Best width of material | 1 0 | |Length of head-piece down the selvage | 8 | |Width of ditto, or four in the width | 4 | |Length of crown down the selvage | 6 | |Width of ditto, or four in the width | 4 | |Quantity required for four caps without strings | 14 | |Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 10 | +-----------------------------------------------------+----------+ | ⁂ Cap strings, for any number of caps not exceeding sixteen, | | require seven additional nails, as sixteen pairs exactly cut in| | the width, so that sixteen caps would he the most economical | | number to cut. | +----------------------------------------------------------------+

The head-piece is a little sloped off at the ear from A to B, and is made up double, so as to be only 2 nails deep, when the cap is completed.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 21.

This shape is very suitable for a servant’s day or bonnet cap; it is simple and pretty in appearance, and not expensive.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+----------+ | | Yds. nls.| |Best width of material | 1½ 0 | |Length of crown down the selvage | 7 | |Width of ditto, or four in the width | 6 | |Length of band down the selvage | 8 | |Width of band[1] | 1 | |Quantity required for twelve caps with strings | 1 13 | +-----------------------------------------------+----------+

[1] The remainder of the breadth from which the bands are cut will make strings.

In making it up, the band is doubled in half, the crown whipped and sewed to it, leaving it plain from A to B, for the space of 1¾ nail. A double border is sewn on in front.

AN OLD WOMAN’S CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 22, 23.

This shape is generally preferred by old women, as it sets comfortably over the ears.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------------+----------+ | |Yds. nls.| |Best width of material | 21 | |Length of head-piece down the selvage | 7 | |Width of ditto, or twelve in the breadth | 1¾ | |Length of crown down the selvage | 9 | |Width of ditto at the widest part, or three in the width| 7 | |Width of ditto when sloped off at the bottom | 5 | |Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 11 | |Additional quantity for strings | 7 | +--------------------------------------------------------+----------+

It is almost impossible to cut out a number of these caps without a little waste.

The head-pieces, when torn off, are 7 nails long, and 1¾ wide; double them in half their length, and then slope off from A to B, one nail. The straight part is the front, to which a border is sewed. The crown is next shaped, according to Fig. 23, for which purpose, double the piece in half its width, and from the corner, B, measure 7 nails on the side to A, and 1 nail on the bottom, to C, and cut off in a straight line from A to C. Round off the corner at the top, from A to D. The crown is sewed on plain for the space of 1½ nail from the bottom, and then evenly fulled into the remainder of the head-piece.

A POOR WOMAN’S NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 24, 25, 26.

This shape is sometimes made of linen, but generally of strong calico or check.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.| |Best width of material | 18 | |Length of head-piece down the selvage | 9 | |Width of ditto, or twelve in the breadth | 1½ | |Size of squares in which to cut out the circular crown,| | | or two in the breadth | 9 | |Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 3 15 | |Additional quantity for twelve pair of strings | 7 | +-------------------------------------------------------+---------+

The head-piece is sloped off, as in Fig. 24, from A, which is 1½ nail above the corner, B, to C.

The crown, after being rounded, is evenly fulled into the head-piece, which latter is sewed neatly together behind, at the opening, D C.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 27, 28.

This is a pretty shape for almost any purpose, and in any thin material; it is cut out in front very much in the same manner that a baby’s cap is cut behind, which will be seen if the Plate is turned round, so as to place the doubled part, D, at the top.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.| |Best width of material | 1 8 | |Length of cap down the selvage | 5½ | |Width of ditto, or three in the breadth | 8 | |Depth from F to A | 1½ | |Space from A to B, to be cut | 1 | |Length to be cut from B to C | 2 | |Then slope gradually, in a circular direction, | | | from E to C | | +-----------------------------------------------+---------+

In making up the cap, sew neatly from A to B, and then full in the part from E to C, evenly to the part between C and B; a hem in the front and at the back, is next made for a ribbon or tape, and a small bow, either of the same material (see Fig. 17), or white or coloured ribbon may be put at B (Fig. 28).

BATHING CAP.

These are made of oil-silk, and are worn, when bathing, by ladies who have long hair. Cut a piece of oil-silk, 4 nails long and 8 nails wide; double it so as to make a square; let the doubled part be the back of the cap, and slope off the corner at the top, towards the back, in a curve, so as to shape it to the form of the back of the head. Sew up along the top of the bathing cap, binding it with tape at the seam, both at the top and in the front. Lay on a tape behind to form a hem, making oylet-holes at the ears, and passing a string through each oylet-hole, which is fastened down at the opposite side; these strings draw up the cap, when worn, to the size required.

It is advisable, however, for those who have not long hair, to bathe in plain linen caps, so as to admit the water without the sand or grit, and thus the bather, unless prohibited on account of health, enjoys all the benefit of the shock without injuring the hair.

These caps are often worn by children when the head is shaved, if subject to diseases in the head, as ring-worm, scald-head, &c.

DRESSING-GOWNS.

PLATE 10.

Dressing-gowns are generally made of warm materials, for the winter, as flannels, either printed or plain, merino, shawl, either the real or imitation, and for gentlemen, of cloth or jean. For summer, they are of dimity, calico, twilled muslin, and sometimes, though rarely, of silk. There are various ways of making them; only a few of the most approved shapes will be here mentioned.

PLATE 10. FIG. 1.

A PLAIN USEFUL SHAPE, ESPECIALLY FOR MEN.

This gown is made with a deep hem turned up, and a strong piping at the top of it. It is divided into four, and the arm-holes left in the two front seams, sloping the flannel 1 nail deep, and 2½ nails long, for the shoulders. The neck-gusset is put in double, and the shoulder-strap laid over it. The gown must be neatly plaited behind and in front, set firmly into the double collar, and stitched with strong thread near the edge. Some people pipe every seam of a dressing-gown with white or coloured muslin, linen, or glazed calico. The back is drawn up by means of a string-case, over which a band should button. A large button is put on the band, and on the collar, and the button-holes should be very firmly sewed round, either with tape or with button-hole stitch. After putting in the sleeves, run or back-stitch the plaits firmly down again, at about ¼ nail below the gathering, to make them lie flat.

[Illustration: PLATE 10.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 4 Fig 5A Fig 5B Fig 6

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12

Fig 9 Fig 13 Fig 14

Fig 15 Fig 16

Fig 20 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 18 Fig 17

Fig 19 Fig 21 Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29]

SCALE.

+----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+ | —————————— | Man’s | Woman’s | Girl’s | | | size. | size. |large size.| +----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+ | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls. | |Width of flannel | 14 | 14 | 14 | |Quantity required for one |10 5 | 8 10 | 6 0 | |Length of skirts | 2 0 | 1¾ 0 | 1¼ 0 | |Number of breadths | 4 0 | 4 0 | 4 0 | |Length of sleeve down the selvage | 12 | 10 | 8 | |Width of ditto | 9 | 8 | 7 | |Length of shoulder-strap | 4½ | 4 | 3½ | |Width of ditto | 1½ | 1½ | 1 | |Size of double neck-gusset | 2½ | 2 | 2 | |Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 3 | 2½ | |Width of collar | 5 | 6 | 4 | |Length down the selvage | 10 | 8 | 8 | |Width of wristband | 2½ | 2 | 2 | |Length of ditto down the selvage | 4½ | 4 | 4 | |Width of band | 2½ | 2 | 2 | |Length of ditto down the selvage | 20 | 12 | 12 | |Space to cut for the shoulders | 2½ | 2 | 2 | |Depth for the shoulders to slope | 1 | 1 | ¾ | +----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+

PLATE 10. FIG. 2.

This figure represents a dressing-gown made of dimity. A deep hem of 3 or 4 nails is made at the bottom, insertion-work is sewed up the fronts, and round the cape, collar, and wrists, at the edge of the work a frill is put on. The gown is fulled in evenly to the shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at the top, and may be confined or not, at the waist behind, according to pleasure. The front is generally left unconfined, so that the band alone arranges it in folds.

FIG. 2, 3.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+ | —————————— | Woman’s | Woman’s | | |large size.|small size.| +-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+ | |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. | |Width of material | 14 | 14 | |Number of breadths | 3 breadths| 3 breadths| |The one breadth crossed off at the top | 5 | 5½ | |Length of breadths | 1¾ 0 |1½ 0 | |Length of shoulder-strap | 3¼ | 3¼ | |Width of ditto | 1½ | 1½ | |Length of neck-band or case | 10 | 9 | |Space for shoulder | 3½ | 3½ | |Length of arm-hole | 3 | 2½ | |Arm-hole curved into the cloth | 1¼ | 1 | |Length of waist | 5 | 4½ | |Length of string-case | 10 | 8 | |Sleeve cut according to Plate 12, |Fig. 5 & 6 |Fig. 5 & 6 | | Fig. 5 and 6 | | | |Collar cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | |Cape cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | +-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+

PLATE 10. FIG. 3.

This gown, made of flannel, either plain or printed, is plaited in small regular folds at the neck, where a string-case of muslin or white ribbon is put for a string to pass through. The gown is again plaited in the same folds at the waist, in two rows, to which another string-case is sewed all round the waist. A deep hem is made at the bottom, and turned up with a piping of white; or if it is a printed flannel, of some coloured glazed calico or muslin; the ribbons in front are the same colour, and a flannel band is piped with it, as well as the wristbands and every seam on the shoulders, round the sleeves, &c. The sleeves should be stitched down about 1 nail below the shoulder, to make the fulness lie close and flat. If made of printed flannel, it is useful to wear at the sea-side, as a walking dress, to and from bathing.

CLOAK DRESSING-GOWN.

PLATE 10. FIG. 4.

This is a comfortable simple pattern; it can be made either of flannel or lighter material, and is equally suitable for men, women, and children; it is very convenient for the latter when taken out of a bath, or for sitting up in bed.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+ | —————————— | Man. | Woman. |Girl of 16 yrs.| +-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+ | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| Yds. nls. | |Length of skirt |2 0 |1½ 0 | 1¼ 0 | |Number of breadths |4 0 |4 0 | 4 0 | |Space for shoulder | 2 | 1 | 1 | |Depth of arm-holes | 5 | 4 | 3½ | |Length of string-case | 12 | 10 | 9 | |Length of band | 16 | 14 | 12 | |Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13)| Fig. 1 | Fig. 1 | Fig. 1 | |Collar (see Plate 13) | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | |Cape (see Plate 13) | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | |Sleeves (see Plate 12) | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 | | | | | | +-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+ | —————————— | Girl of 10 yrs. |Child of 5 yrs.| +-----------------------------+-------------------+---------------+ | | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. | |Length of skirt | 1¼ 0 | 1½ 0 | |Number of breadths | 3 0 | 3 0 | |Space for shoulder | ¾ | ¾ | |Depth of arm-holes | 3½ | 3 | |Length of string-case | 8 | 7 | |Length of band | 10 | 8 | |Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13)| Fig. 4 | Fig. 4 | |Collar (see Plate 13) | Fig. 31 | Fig. 13 | |Cape (see Plate 13) | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | |Sleeves (see Plate 12) | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 | | | cut smaller | cut smaller | +-----------------------------+-------------------+---------------+

After the seams have been herring-boned up, the cloak is folded in four, to find the shoulders, which are cut in a gentle slope to the proper width, and sewed up. The arm-holes having been left, the sleeves are next put in, after which, the gown is fulled evenly into the double shoulder-piece; the collar and cape are next put on; the hem at the bottom should be deep, and turned up with a flannel or tape piping; down the sides and round the cape, collar, &c., should be bound with flannel binding, to give a finish. Some persons omit the sleeves, having merely slits for the arms.

A DRESSING JACKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 5, 6.

Some persons merely wear a little flannel, calico, or twilled muslin dressing jacket, and as it is usually made to fit the figure, the breadths are much gored; for the purpose, therefore, of better explaining the shape, a figure is made of the breadth when cut out. Fig. 5 A, is half of the back breadth, which is doubled in two, and Fig. 5 B is the whole of one of the front breadths.

SCALE.

+----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+ | | Woman’s | Woman’s | Girl’s | Girl’s | | ———————— | large | small | large | small | | | size. | size. | size. | size. | +----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+ |Number of breadths | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | |Width of material |12 nls. |11 nls. |11 nls. |11 nls.| |Length of each breadth|14 — |12 — |10 — | 8 — | |Length of sleeve |12 — |10 — | 8 — | 8 — | |Width of ditto |10 — | 8 — | 8 — | 8 — | |Length of collar | 8 — | 6½ — | 6 — | 5½ — | |Width of ditto | 3 — | 3 — | 2 — | 2 — | |Size of neck-gusset | 2 — | 1¾ — | 1½ — | 1¼ — | |Length of arm-hole | 4 — | 4 — | 3½ — | 3 — | |Length of string-case | 4 — | 3½ — | 3½ — | 3 — | |Space for shoulder | 3¾ — | 3½ — | 3 — | 2½ — | |Length of skirt-gusset| 4 — | 3 — | 3 — | 2½ — | |Breadth of ditto | 2 — | 1½ — | 1½ — | 1½ — | +----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+

FIG. 5 A.

Or half the back of the jacket when cut out, supposing the breadth to be folded exactly in two.

Let A L be the folded side.

SCALE.

+---------------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| +---------------------------+-------+ | Space from A to B | 5½ | | Do. do. B to C | 2½ | | Do. do. C to D | 3½ | | Do. do. D to E | 1¼ | | Do. do. D to F | 2½ | | Do. do. F to G | ¾ | | Do. do. F to H | 3 | | Do. do. H to I | 1½ | | Do. do. H to J | ½ | | Do. do. J to K | 3 | | Do. do. K to L | 2½ | +---------------------------+-------+

FIG. 5 B.

Or the whole of one of the front breadths.

SCALE.

+--------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | +--------------------+--------+ | Space from A to B | 4 | | Do. do. B to C | 4½ | | Do. do. C to D | 1 | | Do. do. C to E | 2½ | | Do. do. E to F | 2¾ | | Do. do. E to G | 1 | | Do. do. G to H | 2¾ | | Do. do. H to I | 2¼ | | Do. do. I to J | 6 | | Do. do. J to K | 12 | +--------------------+--------+

In making up this jacket, sew the 3 breadths together, putting in at the bottom two gussets or triangular pieces. Make a narrow hem at the bottom, sew up the shoulders, and put in the sleeves. Set the back breadth plainly into the collar, but full it at each end into the neck gusset, and also in front. Put the string-case about a nail lower than the arm-holes.

FLANNEL PETTICOATS.

PLATE 10. FIG. 7.

The breadths of flannel are cut according to the height of the person, allowing a good tuck besides, to be let down after the petticoat has been washed.

SCALE.

First or largest size, for a full grown woman:—3 breadths of flannel sewed simply together; slit behind 6 nails deep, and opened in a seam.

Second size, for a middle sized woman, 2½ breadths; the half is crossed off 5 nails, and the two gores are sewed, one on each side, between the two plain breadths; slit behind 5 nails; it is made in the middle of one of the plain breadths. It is more economical to cut two petticoats at once, as 5 breadths will make two, but it requires 3 to cut one out, and there must be waste.

Third size, for a girl of fourteen or sixteen, 2 breadths. From 1 breadth is cut a gore of 5 nails at the top, sloped off to 1 nail; this gore is sewed at the opposite side of the same breadth, placing the 1 nail width at the narrow end of the breadth. The slit behind must be determined by doubling the petticoat exactly in half, letting it be about 4 nails long.

Another way of cutting this petticoat, is by crossing it like a shift, and then putting the two broader ends to the bottom, while the narrow part is at the top; by this method there is no waste, and it saves both time and trouble.

Fourth size, 2 breadths: 1 breadth is cut in half, and 1 half is gored 5 nails; the two gores are sewed, one on each side of the whole breadth, in front, and the half breadth is put in behind. The slit is torn down the middle of the half-breadth, and is 4 nails long.

Fifth size, for a girl eight or ten, 1½ breadth. The ½ breadth is gored, and the whole breadth torn in half; a gore is sewed on each side between the two half breadths. Slit behind 3 nails deep, in the middle of the ½ breadth, behind.

Sixth size, for a child five or six, 1½ or 2 breadths, sewed simply together without goring. Slit 3 nails long behind.

Petticoats are variously made up. The most usual way is plaiting the top in regular folds on each side, letting it be quite plain, or nearly so, in front; it is then set firmly into a linen, calico, or jean band, of the proper width to encircle the waist, and of 1 nail deep when doubled and turned in. Strong tapes are sewed to the ends of the band, and sometimes a large button-hole is made in the band, about 2 nails from the end, through which the tape of the opposite end is drawn, which makes the petticoat set neatly to the figure.

Another manner is to make the petticoat up without any slit behind, so as to be a round skirt; a band of the same size is set on quite plainly, without plait or fulness (see Fig. 8). A runner is made all round in the middle of the band, and two button-holes for the strings to come out of, are made at the two sides of the petticoat under the arm; one tape is sewed firmly down at the end of one of the button-holes, carried all round the petticoat, and drawn out again at the same hole; the other tape, in a similar manner, is sewed down at the other button-hole: when the petticoat is on, and the tapes drawn and tied in front, the fulled part lies behind, forming a sort of bustle to set off the dress properly (see Fig. 9).

The tops for children’s petticoats are generally a kind of stay, to which the skirt is either sewed or fastened by means of buttons, and to which the drawers button also. For children’s stays, see Plate 11.

POCKETS.

PLATE 10.

Pockets are either worn tied round the waist, fastened into the petticoat, or buttoned upon the stays. When fastened into the petticoat, they are made of the same material, otherwise of dimity, calico, jean, twilled muslin, and sometimes of nankeen or brown jean.

Take a doubled piece of six nails width-way, and seven nails selvage-way when doubled, and cut according to Fig. 10. For this purpose, double the folded piece in half width-way, and slope off from A to B one nail. The hole in the pocket is slit down about four nails, beginning at three-quarters of a nail from the top. Cut the slit in the shape of an I, in order to allow of a deep hem being made on each side. The two pieces of the pocket are run firmly together all round, at a little distance from the edge, on the wrong side. It is then turned inside out, the seam well flattened, and back-stitched all round with white silk, about a quarter of an inch from the edge. The top is set into a broad piece of tape, which is doubled over it and forms the strings also. The slit is hemmed or back-stitched neatly down. Sometimes an inner pocket or pockets are made for a watch, &c., and this is done by sewing a square piece of the material inside the pocket. The top is left open, but the sides and bottom of it are firmly sewed down.

ANOTHER POCKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 11.

This differs from the other merely in having the slit cut the contrary way, so as to open width, instead of length-wise.

ANOTHER POCKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 13, 14.

This shape is preferred by some persons, as it sets better to the figure than the others. The straight side is worn in front; and, in cutting out a pair of pockets, care must be taken to make them for the right and left side. The shape is exactly the same as Fig. 10, excepting that, after they are cut out, a gore is taken off from the one side and sewed on to the other, by which means the one is straight and the other, in consequence of the addition, is very much sloped. When pockets are fastened into gowns and petticoats, they are a little fulled at the top, and the slit of the pocket is sewed to the corresponding slit of the petticoat. Some people cut out the slit for the pocket differently, as they are considered to lie flatter to the person than the usual shaped pocket. It is formed by making an oblong bag or pocket, about eight nails long and five nails wide, and cutting at one end, in a slanting direction, so as to take off a triangular piece. To save waste, it is better to make two pockets at once, letting the oblong piece be still five nails wide, when doubled, but fifteen nails long (see Fig. 12); crease it in half its length, and then cut, in a slanting direction, across from A to B. The part cut forms the slit or opening to the pocket, which is sewed all round to the slit in the petticoat or gown.

ANOTHER METHOD.

This is simply a lining or square piece of calico, about ten nails wide and eight nails deep, sewed to the inside of the petticoat quite plainly. The petticoat has a slit of four nails deep.

FRILLS.

Frills are in use when high gowns are worn, and are made of cambric, muslin, net, lace, tulle, crape, &c.

A SIMPLE FRILL.

This is merely a strip of muslin, about fourteen nails long and three nails wide, more or less, according to pleasure. It is merely hemmed all round, and simply plaited up, in regular folds, to the proper size.

A PARTICULARLY NEAT FRILL.

PLATE 10. FIG. 15.

This is made of net or clear muslin, and is neatly fulled to the band. The edge, instead of being hemmed, is rolled over a bobbin to stiffen it. The band is about half a nail wide, and doubled, and is nine nails long. The frill on each side is fourteen nails long, and two nails wide. A button-hole is put in the middle to fasten it to the gown, and it ties at the ends with ribbons.

A CRIMPED FRILL.

PLATE 10. FIG. 16.

This is very suitable for young children, especially boys, and is generally made of lawn or cambric. The frill should be double the length of the size round the neck, and about one nail wide. A neat hem at one edge, and the other is sewed to a band of the proper length, say about five nails, and of half a nail in depth. These frills should be crimped very neatly.

PLATE 10. FIG. 17.

This frill is to be made like Fig. 15, excepting that the muslin is only one nail deep, and crimped in the same manner as Fig. 16. It is very suitable for young children.

PLATE 10. FIG. 18.

Another and more ornamental frill, made of muslin or net, with edging sewed on it.

The muslin or net must be about four nails wide, and fourteen or sixteen nails long. The frill is creased down the middle, and on each side of the crease, at a quarter of a nail distance, it is neatly run with a long thread, and drawn up to the proper width, forming a puffing in the centre of the frill. This puffing is first stroked with the needle into an even fulness, and then sewed at each side close to the gatherings, to a band of a quarter of a nail wide only, or still narrower, so as to raise the puffing sufficiently to look well, and yet not too much to admit of a ribbon being drawn smoothly through it. This ribbon ties the frill round the neck.

PLATE 10. FIG. 19.

This is a very simple frill, and, when well made, looks remarkably neat. The net of which it is composed must be about two nails and a quarter wide, creased in the middle, and finely plaited in small neat plaits. It is then doubled, and bound on the outside down the folded centre with a narrow ribbon, so that the two sides of the frill lie close together, instead of being open, like Fig. 18.

ANOTHER FRILL.

This kind, which is sometimes called a Ruche, is made exactly contrary to the usual mode. The frill, instead of being run down the middle, is joined down the sides, and confined at the joining into a ribbon, so that the top of the frill is double; and as it is usually made of tulle, or some rather stiff material, it stands out stiffly from the neck. Pelerines have sometimes a double frill or Ruche, of the same material that they are made of, sewed to them.

CUFFS.

PLATE 10.

There are various kinds of cuffs, for different purposes, of which the most useful only are here explained.

TIDY CUFFS.

PLATE 10. FIG. 20, 21.

Tidy cuffs are much worn by persons whose employments are apt to injure the sleeve of the gown, either by wearing it out, staining, or greasing it. They are very valuable whilst drawing, writing, pasting, or when in the kitchen; and in these cases are generally made of Holland or nankeen, and when braided with dark blue, green, crimson, brown, or any other suitable colour, with ribbons to lace up of the same, they have a particularly neat effect. The cuff is cut out as follows (Fig. 21):—Procure a piece of Holland four nails down the selvage, and five nails wide; double it in half its width, and slope down by the selvage from A to D, and from B to C, cutting off half a nail in a direct slope, so that, when open, the end, C D, is but four nails wide, while A B is five. Turn down a deep hem along each of the sloped sides half a nail deep, and over the stitches put a braid, with two other rows of the same close together on the hem, leaving sufficient space between to insert a thin whalebone to support the cuff, and keep it from wrinkling when on the arm. The lace-holes are worked with silk the same colour as the ribbon. Fig. 20 represents the cuff when laced up.

PLATE 10. FIG. 22.

This is a neat cuff to lay on the dress, and is either made of plain net, of lace, or of muslin, with or without edging, and sometimes of satin ribbon. If for mourning, the net should have a broad hem. It is gathered and sewed into a band about one nail deep, and three or three and a half wide, according to the size of the wrist. There should be two pearl buttons set on one end, and button-holes made to correspond.

PLATE 10. FIG. 23.

This is a plain band, to be made to fit the wrist exactly, of silk, satin, or velvet, to be laid on a thin evening sleeve. It may be one nail broad or more. A rouleau is sometimes laid on round it, or a narrow piping. If it is made of silk the colour of the dress, or of white silk embroidered, it has a very pretty effect.

PLATE 10. FIG. 24.

This is a dress cuff, to wear with lace or tulle sleeves, and may be made of any rich material, with a piping of satin and an edging of blonde or lace. The inside is sometimes embroidered in floss silk. In cutting it out, procure a piece of paper about two nails and a half deep, and four nails long; double it in half its length, and measure up the side from A to C, one nail and a quarter, leaving from C to the upper edge, J, one nail and a quarter also. Cut off the corner from E to C, curving it a little inwards, and again, from C to A, cut off in a direct line one quarter of a nail. Open it, and it will resemble Fig. 24 exactly.

PLATE 10. FIG. 25.

This cuff resembles the preceding one, but has, in addition, a small second cuff laid on the lower part of it, and a slit cut down from the top to about one nail and a quarter depth from A to B. The top of the second cuff comes just below the slit, and it is a little sloped away at the sides.

PLATE 10. FIG. 26.

A cuff worn in deep mourning, especially by widows, and made either of clear muslin or black crape. It consists of fold lying upon fold, and is either sewed upon the sleeve or made to slip over the hand. The folds are four or five in number, and lie just one above the other, each being about a quarter of a nail deep.

PLATE 10. FIG. 27.

This is to be worn as a trimming or edging, below the sleeve, upon the hand: the band buttons inside the sleeve. The frill is of muslin, cambric, net, or lace. It should be very full, and got up in puffs, or very finely crimped. The ends of the bands should have deep hems, in which the button-holes are worked. The band is about three-quarters of a nail deep, and three or three nails and a half wide.

PLATE 10. FIG. 28.

This is a neat simple little cuff, and suits the collar, Plate 13, Fig. 26. It is well adapted for mourning. Cut two pieces of muslin, net, lawn, or cambric, of two nails square, and hem each round with a broad hem; sew the two together to the depth of about one nail; the parts sewed together form a sort of band inside, while the others, being unattached, fall backwards over the sleeve.

PLATE 10. FIG. 29.

A simple, plain, mourning cuff, with a broad hem above and below. The cuff to be about two nails deep, and three and a half or four nails long, according to the size of the wrist.

APRONS.

PLATE 11.

If for common use, aprons are made of white, brown, blue, black, or checked linen, of black stuff, calico, Holland, leather, nankeen, print, or long cloth; if for better purposes, of cambric muslin, clear, mulled, or jaconet muslin, silk, satinette, satin, &c. The length of the apron is, of course, generally determined by the height of the wearer, and the width, by that of the material, and by the purpose for which it is intended. For working aprons, the width is generally one breadth of a yard wide; for dress aprons, two breadths, one of which is cut in half, and these halves put one on each side of the whole breadth. If the material should be wide enough, one breadth, of from fourteen to twenty nails, will answer very well.

DRESS APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 1.

This is made of satinette, or thick satin silk, and consists of two breadths, one in front, and a half-breadth sewed on each side of it. None of them are to be at all sloped. The length is regulated by the pleasure of the wearer, and a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail deep is made all round. The length of the band must vary according to the size of the waist, and must be cut by Fig. L, which represents it when doubled. The part from A to B, or that to which the apron is fulled, is five nails and a half; from A to C is one nail and a half; and from B to D is one full nail. The remainder of the band, from B D, onwards to F, is determined by the size of the waist. A piece of whalebone is stitched into the centre of the band, A C, and on each side of it a little chain-stitch is worked, in thick silk, of the same colour as the apron. The folds are exactly according to the Plate, beginning within the hem, and laid evenly along until below the whalebone, when a space is left. The chain-stitch is next worked in two rows, parallel with the curved shape of the band, allowing little more than a quarter of a nail between the rows. By this means the folds are neatly confined, and it prevents the bustling effect they might otherwise have. These folds are very small and close. The band has a small piping below, but is plain at the top, and fastens behind with hooks and eyes.

[Illustration: PLATE 11

Fig L Fig P

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 5

Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9

Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 13

Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 26

Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25

Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 27 Fig 28

Fig 29 Fig 30 Fig 32

Fig 31

Fig 33]

PLATE 11. FIG. 2.

This apron is generally made of silk, but looks well also in muslin. It requires care in the making as well as in the washing. The vandykes are formed by turning the edge of the apron down once, all round, to about three-quarters of a nail deep; and, after tacking it firmly down, vandykes are neatly run, in very small stitches (Fig. 5), from the edge of the apron to pretty near the rough edge of the silk, leaving sufficient to turn in well afterwards:—thus, let the vandykes be run to the depth of from A to B, leaving a small space all the way from B to C. When finished turn each vandyke inside out, and smooth all the wrinkles at the corners and points with a stiletto or scissors. When it is well and evenly pulled out, turn in the rough edge and hem it neatly down. Sometimes a little braid, or a row of chain-stitch, is put over the stitches on the right side. The plaits are regularly laid, those on each side being folded towards the middle. The band is frequently lined with buckram or stiff muslin, and is made with or without piping. Scollops are sometimes substituted for vandykes.

PLATE 11. FIG. 3.

This apron is of muslin, either clear or otherwise. A broad hem is made all round, of the proper width to admit a coloured or white ribbon of the half or three-quarter nail breadth. Some fine work or edging may be sewed to the hem all round. The band should be open at the ends to admit of the ribbon that ties it being drawn out when the apron is washed. The hem all round should also be kept open at the ends for the same purpose, and merely tacked up when the ribbon is put in.

PLATE 11. FIG. 4.

This is an apron with a broad hem all round, and a full frill of any fine material.

PLATE 11. FIG. 6.

A clear muslin apron, with a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail deep, and a shawl bordering laid all round within the hem, either half or three-quarters of a nail deep. This is a pretty apron for a young person. The bordering must be taken off before the apron is washed.

PLATE 11. FIG. 7.

This represents the bottom of an apron when hollowed out. It has a simple broad hem, turned up with a piping.

PLATE 11. FIG. 8.

The broad hem here is surrounded by a deep crimped frill of about a nail broad. These aprons are generally made of jaconet or cambric muslin, and the frill of cambric or lawn. They are very suitable for ladies to wear in a morning when cutting out, or in the housekeeper’s room.

PLATE 11. FIG. 9.

This is a pretty evening apron, made with a broad hem, and muslin insertion-work let in all round, inside which, coloured ribbon may or may not be run. Edging, either of lace or worked muslin, is put on all round.

APRON POCKETS.

These vary very much, some being laid on the apron as in Fig. 3, 4, and 6; others put on at the back, a slit being made in the apron to correspond with the place of the pockets. These last are made as in Fig. P, from a long double piece, which, being sewed up, is cut diagonally or crosswise, from A to B, and forms two pockets, the part cut being sewed to the slit of the apron. The whole length of the narrow piece, before it is cut, is six nails, and the width, when double, two nails. The slit in the apron is neatly hemmed, and a trimming of ribbon or silk put round it, with a bow at the bottom, or a fringe and tassels.

In Fig. 3 the pocket is a piece of two nails and a half deep and five nails wide. This piece is plaited in regular folds at the top to a lining of only two nails and a half deep, and the same width. The bottom is fulled nearly to a point in small folds, and the lining, being turned in to the same shape, is sewed to it with a piping. The pocket is then stitched firmly on to the apron, and trimmed according to fancy. One or three small bows are put on the pocket.

In Fig. 4 the pocket is cut in the shape of a heart, and put plainly on the apron. It is about two nails and three-quarters wide, and two nails and a half deep. The pocket is piped or trimmed with edging.

In Fig. 6 the pocket is particularly neat and pretty, being made of folds of the same material as the apron, with a coloured piping all round it, and three bows the same colour as the piping.

COMMON APRONS.

The simplest kind, and that generally worn by working men, is a yard wide or more, hemmed at the bottom and at the top, with a string run through to tie round the waist. It is thus worn by brewers, &c.

PLATE 11. FIG. 10.

This is a simple shape, and the one most in use. It is either plaited or gathered into the band, which is about a nail deep. These aprons are usually worn by all servants and women while at work. Blue, check, and brown linen are most used for scouring and cleaning; white linen, Holland, and print, for less dirty employments. Ladies wear them of silk or muslin, with or without pockets.

PLATE 11. FIG. 11.

This is a pretty apron, often worn by girls from eight to sixteen or eighteen years of age. The bib is made of the proper size to fit in front, between the shoulders of the wearer, coming down in a slope to the waist. These bibs may be plain, or they are ornamented with tucks or folds, either upright or length-wise. The shoulder-strap may be of the same material, or of tape or ribbon. The apron is gathered evenly, or plaited so as to reach to A on each side, which is situated exactly between the bottom of the bib and the shoulder-strap behind.

PLATE 11. FIG. 12.

May be worn either as a common or as a pretty dress apron, according to the material and trimming. It may be made of silk, coloured muslin, or print. After being properly gathered into the band, two shoulder-straps, in the form of four lappets, are cut out, either pointed, as in A, or rounded, as in B. These lappets may be piped, and either edged with lace or fringe, or left plain. For a full size, the lappet is five nails along the selvage, from D to C, and one nail and three-quarters from C to B. The two straps are sewed together at C, and fastened with a bow of ribbon. The lappet is piped all round with a strong cord, to make it wear well.

PLATE 11. FIG. 13.

This shape is much worn by men servants, apothecaries, grocers, &c., and is simply gathered into a band, leaving a piece of two nails unattached to it, A B, which is hemmed at the top, and falls negligently down.

A COOKING APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 14.

This is a neat pattern for a housekeeper, cook, or kitchen-maid. The bib is quite plain, and pins to the gown at the corners. The size given in the Plate is suitable for a girl, but the bib should be cut to suit the wearer at once, and not made by guess. The apron is made of check or strong linen.

A PANTRY APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 15.

A very good shape for men servants to wear when trimming lamps, cleaning shoes and knives, &c. The apron is about a yard and a quarter long, and it is made of strong linen or calico. The tape for the neck should be nine or ten nails long. A pocket may be added in front. The corners of the apron are simply turned down to the distance of five nails and a half from the top (see A A), the letters, A A, being each exactly five nails and a half from B. These corners are either sewed or strongly hemmed down.

GENTLEMEN’S WORKSHOP APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 16.

This is very useful for gentlemen when turning, or using tools, and is generally made of Holland or strong white or brown linen. The width is fifteen or sixteen nails; the part for the neck four and a half, five, or more, according to the width across the shoulders of the wearer. The depth of this part two nails and a half or more. The straps, about eight nails and a half long, cross each other from the neck to the half of the shoulder part of the apron; which plan holds it up neatly in front, and makes it set more comfortably. A pocket may be added, according to pleasure, in front, or two at the sides. A slit in the apron, bound round with tape, and a square piece put on behind it, looks the neatest as a pocket.

SENTIMENT, FIANCÉE, OR NECK-TIE.

PLATE 11. FIG. 17, 18.

This is made of velvet, satin, or silk, and is worn for the purpose of keeping the neck warm, and as a finish to the dress. It is made of two colours, which are joined in the middle and lined with sarsenet: the silk or other material is cut crosswise and pointed at the ends. The sentiment is six or seven nails long from point to point, when made up, and within one nail and a half of the point at one end, is fastened with strong stitches or a silk ring. When the tie is worn, the other point is passed through the ring and drawn close. Sometimes the neck-tie is of a dark coloured silk in the middle with two coloured ends.

A DRESS SCARF OR CAPRICE.

PLATE 11. FIG. 19, 20.

This is made of the broadest satin ribbon that can be procured, say two nails and a half wide, and is two yards and three-quarters long. Double the ribbon on the wrong side exactly in two, and, while so doubled, run across the width of the ribbon in a slanting direction (Fig. 19, A B), and when opened, the scarf will set to the form of the neck. An edging of swansdown is sewed all round, and the ends may be either embroidered, braided, or left plain, according to the taste of the wearer.

A CACHEMIRE OR INDIANA SCARF.

PLATE 11. FIG. 21.

This is a kind of scarf which is easily made, and is a pretty finish to a walking dress, or may be worn in an evening at home: it is formed of three colours, say black, scarlet, and light blue. To make one scarf, you will want one yard and six nails in length and four nails and a half in width, of the black cachemire.

Sometimes the length of the scarf will lie in the width of the material, in which case it will be a great saving of expense. Procure a piece of each of the other two colours, seven nails long, and of the same width as the black, viz., four nails and a half. Find the middle of each end of the black strip, and slope off one nail and a half from the middle to each side (see Fig. 21, A C A D): next, slope one end of the blue, and one end of the scarlet strip, to accord exactly with the black strip, cutting the nail and a half from the middle to the ends. After this, split the blue and the scarlet pieces down the middle, sew half the blue and half the scarlet very accurately, first together, and then to the black strip, making the points fit in as neatly as possible to the half strips: do the same at the other end, arranging the colours so as to be at cross corners with each other. Observe that the pieces are sewed flatly together, and herring-boned all round on the right side. A narrow silk gymp, one-third of a nail wide, is laid at the edge and upon all the joinings; this gymp should be of some clear bright colour, as yellow and deep brown or gold colour, and at the ends is a silk fringe of blue and scarlet, to match the two half strips.

A SIMPLE SCARF.

This is made of plain net or tulle, the whole width of the material, say three-quarters of a yard, and three yards long. A broad hem is made all round, wide enough to admit of a satin ribbon of a three-penny breadth.

STAYS OR CORSETS.

PLATE 11.

It is impossible to give any particular patterns or sizes of stays, as they must, of course, be cut differently, according to the figure, and be variously supported with more or less bones or runners of cotton, according to the age, strength, or constitution of the wearer; we shall, therefore, confine ourselves to a few observations on the making up: and with respect to the cutting out, it is recommended to those who make their own stays, to purchase a pair from an experienced stay-maker that fit perfectly well, and also a pair cut out, but not made up, so as to be a good pattern for the home-made stays.

WOMEN’S STAYS.

PLATE 11. FIG. 22.

If for ladies, they are made of sattine, or best French jean, which is half a yard wide, and about 20_d._ or 2_s._ per yard: if of an inferior quality, they are made of white, brown, grey, or nankeen jean, at 8_d._ or 10_d._ per yard, and lined with calico between the doubles. The stay is generally lined between the two pieces of jean with union cloth or Irish linen in every part excepting the gores. Stays are usually cut in four parts, all of which are generally upon the cross, as this assists materially in making them set better to the figure. Two of the pieces reach from each side of the back, nearly to the hips, and the other two from thence to the middle of the busk or steel. There are two gores on each side for the bosom, and two larger ones on each side below, for the hips.

The necessary bones are as follows:

A steel in the middle, which should be narrower at the top than at the bottom, and confined in a strong wash-leather, before being put into the stay-case.

Two bones at the extreme ends, to prevent the holes from bursting beyond the edge.

We may also add, as they are in common use, a second bone down each back, on the other side of the lace-holes.

Bones between the front bosom gores, on each side; but these should be very thin and elastic, and are seldom wanted unless the wearer requires much additional support.

Two other bones, one on each side, from about a nail below each arm-hole to the bottom of the stay.

A few slight rib or cross-bones are sometimes put in.

It is as well to observe that unless particularly feeble, or otherwise an invalid, it is most desirable to wear as few bones as possible; and that for healthy persons, the two back bones, with the steel in front, are quite sufficient. The casing of the steel in front is sometimes made elastic to the depth of four nails from the top, by means of Indian rubber runners; which adds much to the comfort of asthmatic or delicate persons. (See Fig. 23.)

On each side of the steel is a cotton runner, and these are also put in various other parts of the stays, according to fancy.

ON MAKING UP.

The needles used for making stays are called the _between_ needles. Strong sewing silk, called stay-silk, is used for the best corsets, and strong waxed cotton for the common ones. In sewing the seams, take great care to turn in the work properly, so as to have all the rough edges within the stay: for this purpose, first turn down the outside and inside piece of jean lying on one side of the seam, with the rough edges and the lining prepared as if for common sewing; do the same with the other side of the seam, placing the two seams, thus prepared, side by side, and sew them firmly together. It will have the effect of a double ordinary seam, when held between the finger and thumb. The mode of sewing these four thicknesses so as to make them lie flatly when opened, is rather peculiar. Take up with your needle, three of the thicknesses, leaving the fourth unsewed. The next stitch, take again three folds, leaving the other outside one unsewed: continue alternately taking up one outside and omitting the other, letting the stitches lie close together: when completed, open the seam, and flatten it with the finger and thumb.

The gores are next laid between the doubles of jean, and neatly back-stitched all round; the narrow parts at the top being worked in button-hole stitch.

The bone-cases are then made, and the cotton runners back-stitched.

The oylet or lace-holes are next worked, and after the stay-bones are put in, the top and bottom of the stays, with the shoulder-straps, are neatly bound with stay-binding.

As there are many varieties in the shapes of the different parts of stays, they will be described in detail, under their respective heads.

GORES.

These are sometimes made of elastic wires, as in Fig. 23, sometimes of Indian rubber, and sometimes of a kind of elastic twill.

SHOULDER-STRAPS

Are made of the same material as the stays, and back-stitched to the front and back of the shoulder. Sometimes they are buttoned down in the front, which enables the wearer, by unbuttoning them, to dress her hair in an evening with perfect ease. (See Fig. 22.)

Others have oylet-holes to admit of bobbins, which lace them to corresponding holes in the stays. (See Fig. 24.)

A piece of Indian rubber or elastic wire, of about one nail in length, is frequently sewed to the end of the strap, and this is considered the most convenient, as it will lengthen or contract at pleasure.

LACE-HOLES

Are generally worked round in button-hole stitch; sometimes tape is laced from the outside through these holes, being drawn through every other hole till they reach the top, and then brought down again, drawing it round the edge, through the intermediate holes; this preserves them from being worn. (See Fig. 26.) Others insert in every hole a ring, called a patent lace-hole. These are very durable, but are said to destroy the laces.

MODESTY-PIECE.

To the top of the stay is sometimes attached a small modesty-piece, which for some people is an excellent contrivance, as it makes it set more closely and delicately in front. This extra piece is all in one, and is the cross-way; it is carried along the whole of the front of the stay: it is about half a nail deep over the bosom, and sloped off to a quarter of a nail over the stay-bone; at the top of this additional strip, which is bound all round, a bobbin is run to draw it up. When drawn properly, this modesty lies over the bosom so as to shade it delicately, whereas if it were cut all in one piece with the stay it would make it higher, but it would stand out, and not answer the desired end. (See Fig. 25.)

NURSING STAYS.

It is essential to open the front of nursing stays, so as to give the mother the greatest ease while feeding her infant; for this purpose, care should be taken that no stay-bones or hard buttons should come in contact with the child’s face: the two or three best modes of opening them are the following:

Leave open that side of the bosom gore which is next to the shoulder-strap, to the depth of a full nail and a half; neatly bind the side of the gore, and after back-stitching the opposite side, sew on very firmly two buttons, one at the top and the other lower down. To the gore is attached two loops, by which it can be buttoned or unbuttoned at pleasure. (See Fig. 24.)

Another mode is that of leaving open the outer sides of those gores nearest the steel or middle of the stays.

These sides, and the parts with which they accord, have oylet-holes worked down them, exactly opposite to each other. Through each oylet-hole in the gore, pass a bobbin of about two nails and a quarter long, which is fastened at one end firmly to the wrong side, just behind the oylet-hole. The other end of each bobbin is drawn across to the inner side of the corresponding hole, and pulled through. By this arrangement all the ends of the bobbins lace up the whole gore. The bobbins are sewed together at the ends, forming a loop to attach it to a button on each side of the steel (see Fig. 23, A B).

These bobbins should be carefully cut and joined, so as to pull the gores properly in their places. When it is unbuttoned the whole front lets down comfortably. It is advisable to sew a little fold or oblong piece to the stay on the inside, which forms a flap to lie between the shift and the opening, as a guard from cold.

MEN’S STAYS, OR BELTS.

PLATE 11. FIG. 27, 28.

These are worn by gentlemen in the army, hunters, or by those using violent exercise.

They are made of strong jean, duck, leather, or webbing.

Sometimes the stay is merely a strip or belt, as Fig. 28; at others it is a little shaped or peaked, as Fig. 27. Towards the ends is sewed a piece of elastic work (see Fig. 28 E). Runners of cotton are made in various places to strengthen the whole. Long webbing straps are sewed three on each end. These straps are sewed on with pieces of leather over them, and are about three nails deep. The length is, of course, determined by the size of the wearer.

BELT FOR A HUNTER OR COACHMAN.

This is often merely a simple leather belt, with three tongues and buckles.

CHILD’S LITTLE STAY.

PLATE 11. FIG. 33.

This is made of fine jean, doubled, of three nails depth, and of the width required by the child. Cord runners are made in front, and at the backs, and buttons are put on, before and behind, for the drawers and flannels to be attached to.

AN OLDER CHILD’S STAY.

PLATE 11. FIG. 29.

This is formed of double jean, and may be lined between with Irish linen. If it is preferred, all the runners may have cotton drawn through them, so as to admit of no bones.

BUSTLES.

PLATE 11. FIG. 30, 32.

Bustles are worn by those whose shape requires something to set off the skirt of the gown. They should not be too large, or they look indelicate, and in bad taste. They are made of jean, strong calico, and sometimes of glazed calico.

Fig. 30 represents a simple bustle of strong calico. It is composed of one piece the width of the calico, say a yard, and eight nails deep. This piece is doubled in two, so as to make two flounces, the one four nails and a half long, and the other three and a half. At one nail from the doubled top make a narrow case to admit of tapes. The bottoms of the flounces are hemmed with a very thick cord in them. When worn, the bustle is turned inside out, by which means the frill falls between the two flounces (see Fig. 32).

Fig. 31 is merely two flounces of jean, one four nails deep and the other three nails, gathered into a tape at the top and vandyked at the bottom.

Some persons wear down bustles (see Fig. 33), which are made of glazed lining muslin. A flat half circle or oval is cut out, about two nails and a half wide by two nails deep, and another piece, of an oblong shape, rounded at the corners, much longer and deeper, say three-quarters of a yard long by four nails and a half deep, is fulled into the smaller piece on one side, and into a tape on the other or top, thus making a bag to contain the down, which should be either swan’s or the best goose down.

VEILS.

The subject of veils is one that may soon be dismissed, as a few words on the materials of which they are composed, together with the usual sizes, comprises all that can be said upon them.

Veils for ordinary wear may be of a kind of soft tulle, made on purpose, of net, gauze, or crape. The size for a grown-up person is from thirteen nails to a yard long, and about twenty nails wide; for a child, eleven nails long, and the width is determined by that of the material. Demi-voiles are about four nails deep, and the width is regulated by that of the bonnet to which they are attached.

A pretty way of making a net or tulle veil is by hemming a satin ribbon half a nail deep all round it, either the same colour, or, if the veil is white, of some pale shade to suit the bonnet or the dress. This, by strengthening the edges, makes the veil wear better than it would otherwise do.

A crape or gauze veil is simply hemmed all round, the hem being deeper at the bottom to give it a little weight. A ribbon is run in at the top.

Mourning veils are of black crape. They should be made of what is termed the best, or jet black crape, as the blue-black soon wears whitish, and looks shabby. The other, though the most expensive at first, is the best economy in the end. They are made quite plainly, with a broad hem all round—say three-quarters of a nail deep.

Demi-voiles, when not of blonde, Chantilly, or worked lace, are of tulle, with ribbon run in. They should be set on the bonnet slightly, fulled all round the brim, but much more so at the ears, to make them hang well. A demi-voile should also be a little taken up at the ears, so as not to be the full depth, which is apt to give a slovenly appearance.

Riding veils are much shorter than any other kind except demi-voiles, and sufficiently wide to draw nearly all round the hat. They are made either of black lace, worked on purpose, or of brown or green crape. It is a good plan to run a string through a riding-veil, both at the top and bottom, taking care that the ribbon at the bottom is only just as long as the veil is wide, so that it is not seen when not in use. The advantage of this second string is, that in hot weather, and under a glaring sun, the wearer may tie both ribbons round her hat, thus forming a double veil for the protection of her eyes, whilst the lower part of the face has all the benefit of the cool air.

SLEEVES.

PLATE 12.

Sleeves should, when it is possible, be cut upon the cross; for which purpose a corner of the material should be turned up, until the doubled part, which is the cross way, is large enough to admit of the length and width of the sleeve.

Silk is sometimes too narrow for a very large sleeve to be made without joining, when care should be taken to join together two selvages. The joinings must be so contrived as to set either under, or at the back of the sleeves.

[Illustration: Plate 12.

Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7

Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 8

Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 21

Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26 Fig. 27 Fig. 28 Fig. 29

Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35]

In order to make sleeves set well, they are hollowed out, as it is called, which is nothing more than cutting away a little of the front, at the top, so as to make it less deep than the back, observing always that it is straight in the front, the crosswise part of the sleeve falling behind. This is of great importance, as the set of the sleeve depends upon it. Of course attention must be paid to make them in pairs.

There are so many ways of finishing sleeves, and so many fancies about them, that to describe them all would be equally impossible and useless. A few rows of biassing, both at the top and bottom, or small plaits, confined once or twice by narrow bands, or by back-stitching, give a very neat appearance when the sleeve is at all a full one.

For lining sleeves, see the description in Chapter I.

A CHILD’S FIRST SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a neat shape for a child of a year old, before which time their sleeves are generally cut straight, and merely sloped down to the cuff.

Turn up your material seven nails, and, after cutting a pattern according to the figure, lay it on the piece and cut by it.

The pattern is cut as follows (see Fig. 2):—Take half a square of seven nails each way, and from A to B measure two nails; the same from A to H, and mark across, letting the wrist be one nail and three-quarters wide. From B to C is four nails, between which, measure downwards, one nail and a half, and curve from B, by L, to C, which is one nail from D. Measure next to E, three nails, and curve from C to E, and again from E to G, which is two nails from F.

The part marked D in all the sleeves is double. When made up it resembles Fig. 1.

AN OLDER CHILD’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 3, 4.

Turn up seven nails crosswise, and cut as follows, see Fig. 4:—

SCALE.

+-------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From A to B | 1¾ | | From A to C | 1½ | +-------------+-------+

Cut across one nail and a quarter for the wrist.

SCALE.

+----------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From A to E is | 6 | | From E to F | 1 | +----------------+-------+

Slope gradually from B to F.

SCALE.

+-------------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From the corner, K to G | 3½ | | From the corner, I to H | 1½ | +-------------------------+-------+

Slope from F to G, and from G to H.

In making up Fig. 3, after joining the seams, and hemming or piping it at the bottom, gather it into the arm-hole at the top, and make a string-case just above the elbow to confine it as in the Plate. If preferred, it may be gathered above the elbow, and a narrow band put on.

LONG SLEEVE FOR A GROWN-UP PERSON.

PLATE 12. FIG. 5, 6.

This is cut as follows:—Turn up your paper pattern, or material, nine nails upon the cross (see Fig. 6).

SCALE.

+----------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From A to B is | 2 | | From A to J is | 2 | +----------------+-------+

Cut straight from J to B for the wrist.

SCALE.

+----------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From B to C | 3 | | From C to E | 3 | | From E to the corner | 1 | +----------------------+-------+

Cut straight from B to K, which is two nails below C. Cut in a sweep from K to the point, O, which is a quarter of a nail below E.

SCALE.

+----------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From the corner to F | 3½ | | From F to G | 2½ | | From G to H | 3 | | From H to I | 2 | +----------------------+-------+

Cut in a sweep from O to F, and from G to I.

The making up is perfectly simple. It is for a small-sized person.

THE CIRCULAR LONG SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 7, 8.

This takes rather more of the material than the other shapes, but it is so easily cut out, and looks so well when made up, that it is allowed a place here.

For the full size it is a perfect circle, in a square of about fifteen nails.

After the circle is formed, double it in half (see Fig. 8); measure at A B a sufficient width to admit of the wrist, and slit up, in a slightly curving line, from B to C for about four nails, to form the arm of the sleeve. A little of the circle, from E towards B, is then sloped off to form the hollowing.

When made up, this part, E, is all taken up and gathered into the shoulder-strap. It is considered to hang particularly well, falling over the tight part of the sleeve (see Fig. 7.)

A PLAIN LONG SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 9, 10.

Turn up your material a yard or fifteen nails. If it will not permit of this being done without joining, add a straight piece along the dotted line, running the two selvages together. Cut out as follows:

SCALE.

+----------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From A to B is | 3 | | From A to C | 2 | | From B to L | 3 | | From L to E | 3 | | From E to F | 6 | | From F to G | 8 | | From G to H | 8 | | From H to I | 4 | +----------------+-------+

Cut from C to within half a nail below B for the wrist. Cut nearly straight from B to O, which is two nails and a half below L, and in a sweep from O to E.

Sweep well from E to G, and from G to I.

The making up is perfectly simple.

A FULL SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 11, 12.

Turn up fifteen nails of your material, and mark as follows:—

SCALE.

+--------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From A to B | 8 | | From B to E | 7 | | From E to F | 7 | | From F to H | 5 | | From the side to G | 1¾ | | From H to I | 3 | | From I to J | 2 | | From A to C | 3¼ | +--------------------+-------+

Curve from C to B; from B to F. Hollow from F to G, and cut nearly straight from G to H.

It is made up either quite simply, or with one or two rows of biassing below the gathers at the top.

ANOTHER FULL SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 13, 14.

Turn up thirteen nails of your material, and mark as follows:—

SCALE.

+-------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From A to B | 8 | | From A to C | 2¼ | | From B to O | 5 | | From O to E | 3 | | From E to F | 6 | | From F to G | 2 | | From F to H | 2 | | From H to I | 3 | | From I to J | 2 | +-------------+-------+

Slope in a regular curve from C, by B, to E. Curve easily from E to G, and cut nearly straight from G to H. Cut from H to I for the wrist.

A SMALL SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 15, 16.

Turn up your material so that the cross part, is seventeen nails long. Cut as follows (Fig. 16):

SCALE.

+-------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From A to B | 3¼ | | From A to C | 2 | | From B to E | 5¾ | | From E to F | 3 | | From F to G | 8 | | From G to H | 3½ | | From H to I | 3½ | +-------------+-------+

Slope, in an equal and full curve, from C, by B, to F. Cut straight from G to I.

AN OLD WOMAN’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 17, 18.

This is an economical kind of sleeve, worn much by the working classes.

Double your material either on the cross or nearly straight, according to taste and economy. From A to B, the doubled part, is ten nails and a half. C is the point opposite O, which is two nails below B. Slope, in an outward curve, from B to C, and then, taking but one fold of the silk, cut the inward curve from B to C, which forms the hollowing or inside of the sleeve.

A BOY’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 19, 20.

This is for a boy of about six years old, who wears tunics of cloth. The sleeve, when doubled, is six nails long, four nails wide at the top, and one nail and three-quarters at the wrist. A is three nails from the top, opposite to which is B.

Curve from C to B, hollowing out one fold. Fig. 20 represents the sleeve made up.

A BOY’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 21.

This sleeve is for a boy’s coat or tunic, and has two seams in it, like a man’s coat sleeve.

Take two pieces of cloth eight nails long and three wide. A is half way down the length. Curve from A to the bottom, to within half a nail from the corner. Curve from B to C at two nails from the top, and from A to B at three-quarters of a nail from the side, which forms the elbow. Curve from C to the bottom, at three-quarters of a nail from the side.

A WOMAN’S LARGE SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 22, 23.

Turn up your material fourteen nails, and double it so as to be sixteen nails long at the top, A C E.

SCALE.

+----------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | From A to B is | 2 | | From A to C | 8 | | From C to E | 8 | | From E to F | 2 | | From F to G | 6 | | From G to H | 3 | | From G to I | 6 | | From I to J | 7 | +----------------+-------+

Sweep gradually from B, past C, to F. Curve again from F to H. Cut in a straight line from H to J.

In making up, the sleeve may be biassed one nail from the top, and a piped band laid on, and again three or four times at the wrist, or it may be confined above the elbow; in which case it must be made a little longer than would otherwise be necessary.

This is a pattern that can only be used when large sleeves are worn; but, being a good shape, it is hoped it may prove acceptable.

SHORT SLEEVES.

PLATE 12. FIG. 24, 25, 26.

These are for dresses, frocks, or even petticoats, when full sleeves are worn and liked.

Cut the pattern of the whole sleeve in paper; and then, turning up your material to a sufficient size crosswise, lay the sleeve open upon it, placing the long side of the pattern upon the cross or doubled part of the material. Both sleeves may thus be cut out at once.

SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES.

+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+ | ———————— | Large | Second | Third | | | size. | size. | size. | +--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails.| |Turn up the material at the side| 17 | 13 | 12 | |From A to B | 3 | 2 | 3 | |From A to C | 3 | 2 | 3 | |From C to B | 2 | 1½ | 2 | |From B to D | 14 | 10 | 8 | |From D to E | 15 | 11 | 9½ | |From E to F | 2 | 2 | 3 | |From F to G | 2 | 3 | 2½ | |From H to I | 6 | 5 | 4½ | |From C to G | 20 | 14 | 12 | |Length of band, say | 5½ | 5 | 4½ | +--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+ | | | Small | | | ———————— | Girl’s | girl’s |Child’s| | | size. | size. | size. | +--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails.| |Turn up the material at the side| 9 | 6½ | 5½ | |From A to B | 2 | 1 | 1 | |From A to C | 2 | 1 | 1 | |From C to B | 1½ | ¾ | ¾ | |From B to D | 7½ | 5 | 4½ | |From D to E | 7 | 5 | 4½ | |From E to F | 2 | 1½ | 1 | |From F to G | 2 | 1½ | 1 | |From H to I | 3½ | 2½ | 2 | |From C to G | 9 | 7 | 6 | |Length of band, say | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ | +--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+

When cut out, fold each sleeve in half (see Fig. 26), and hollow one fold out to form the inside.

Take care to hollow the sleeves properly, so as to make a pair, the straight part of the sleeve being in front, which is to be hollowed. If the sleeve should require joining, sew two selvages together (see the dotted line, Fig. 25).

In making up, the bottom of the sleeve may be either set into a band, as in the Plate, or into a piping; at the top it is gathered, and frequently a piping is put round it, which gives it a neat finish: it is set into the dress quite plainly under the arms; the fulness is thrown a little back, for if brought too forward, it is very unbecoming to the figure.

SHORT SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 27, 28, 29.

These are cut out exactly like Fig. 25, excepting that after the sleeve is simply cut out, a triangular piece is taken from the top of the doubled part of it, and a triangle of worked muslin inserted. To cut out this piece, double the sleeve, as in Fig. 29, and cut off from A to B: when opened again, it will resemble Fig. 28, and when made up, it will be like Fig. 27.

In making up, after setting the sleeve into a band or piping at the bottom, gather it at the top and sew it to the triangular piece, throwing the fulness pretty equally at the sides, and making it very full at the point of the triangle. Sometimes the triangle is piped to make it firmer.

CIRCULAR SHORT SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 30, 31, 32.

This is another kind of short sleeve, being cut out of a circle. It is hollowed a little (see Fig. 30), A B, for the inside of the arm. A circular hole is cut in the centre, a little larger than the width of the arm; this inner circle is gathered and set into the band, and the outer one, also gathered, is sewed into the arm-hole of the dress.

The following are good sizes for circular sleeves, all of which must be cut out of squares.

SCALE.

+-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+ | ———————— |Full |Second| Third|Girl’s|Child’s|Baby’s| | |size. |size. | size.| size.| size. |size. | +-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+ | |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| Nails.|Nails.| |Size of the square | 18 | 15 | 13½ | 11 | 9 | 7 | |Size of the hole across| 3½ | 3¼ | 3¼ | 2½ | 2 | 1¾ | |Length of the band | 5½ | 5 | 4½ | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ | +-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+

TIGHT SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 33, 34, 35.

This sleeve may be used either for petticoats, or, when tight sleeves are worn, for evening dresses, and children’s frocks, in which case it is ornamented in different ways.

Turn up the material on the perfect cross, and for the better cutting it out, double it again, as in Fig. 33, on which four folds lay your pattern, D being the doubled part.

Turn up your material eight nails, then fold it from A to B, Fig. 35, and cut as follows, see Fig. 33:

SCALE.

+----------------+---------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B is | 3 | | From A to C | 3 | | From B to E | 4½ | | From E to F | 2 | | From F to G | 3½ | | From C to H | ½ | +----------------+---------+

Cut from B to C, sweep from B to F, and then cut from H, which is half a nail above C, to G.

[Illustration: PLATE 13

Fig. 1 Fig. 6 Fig. 9 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14

Fig. 2 Fig. 7 Fig. 10 Fig. 16 Fig. 15

Fig. 3 Fig. 39 Fig. 17 Fig. 18

Fig. 4 Fig. 8 Fig. 11 Fig. 19 Fig. 20

Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23

Fig. 5 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26 Fig. 27

Fig. 28 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32 Fig. 33

Fig. 34 Fig. 35 Fig. 36 Fig. 37 Fig. 38]

SHOULDER-PIECES, COLLARS, CAPES &c.

PLATE 13.

As the above articles, together with pelerines, tippets, and collarettes, are required for cloaks, gowns, pelisses, frocks, and dressing-gowns, it is advisable to class them under a head by themselves, by which means they can be more readily explained, without confusion or repetition, and the pattern wanted for any particular dress, referred to.

Patterns of the prettiest and most varied forms are selected, together with a few scales for different sizes.

OBSERVE that the Plates represent but half of the pattern, which is supposed to be double at the end marked D; also NOTICE, that they are drawn to a scale of the exact size of the pattern when _made up_, so that about a quarter of a nail must be allowed all round for the turnings in. It is a good plan, when cutting out any difficult shape, to make a pattern on paper, very accurately, first; and then to lay it on the material and cut by it.

As it would be impossible to describe any intricate shape clearly, without putting it into some regular form, it is deemed necessary to enclose each pattern within an oblong or a square, on the sides of which are marked distinctly the nails, so that by making a figure on paper to a scale of real nails in the same proportion, and marking with great accuracy the parts, which the extreme points of the irregular pattern within, touch, the shape may be easily obtained by curving inwardly or outwardly from point to point, according to the shape to be represented in the drawing. It is always preferable to cut the above articles crosswise, both before and behind, as they set much better to the shape, especially behind; for the sake of economy, they are sometimes cut straight-wise with one end placed against the selvage; sometimes the collar or cape is joined behind with a neat piping, in which case the back of the pattern is frequently laid against the selvage and the points made to lie crosswise. The Plate represents the patterns as cut on the most economical plan, shewing whether the front or back should be straight-wise. Observe that if one side of the back be cut across, the other side must be so likewise, and if one side of the back be cut selvage-wise, so must the corresponding; whereas, with regard to the front ends, one side may be straight, while the other is on the cross.

IN CUTTING CROSSWISE.

Turn up a sufficient quantity of the corner of the material, like a half-handkerchief, and laying the pattern with the part marked D on the doubled part of the material, cut it out, allowing a quarter of a nail all round for the turning in.

IN CUTTING STRAIGHT-WISE.

Double the material selvage-wise to the proper width, and cut out according to the paper pattern, still placing D on the folded part of the muslin.

SHOULDER-PIECES.

Are generally employed in dressing-gowns, cloaks, and capes, also in boys’ high dresses. It is the part to which the skirt or deep cape is fulled, and should be made to set particularly well to the figure, else the whole dress will have an awkward appearance.

In making up, the shoulder-pieces are generally lined, unless they are intended for any light article of dress. If they are meant for a cloak or warm cape, a piece of fine flannel or demet, is often put between the material of which the cloak is made and the lining, with a piping round the edge.

A NEAT SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A WOMAN’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 1.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| |Width of square when doubled | 3½ | |Length of square | 5¾ | |Space from A to B | 2¾ | |Space from B to C | 3 | |Space from C to D | 1½ | |Space from D to E | 2 | |Space from E to F | 1 | |Space from F to G | 1 | |Space from F to H | 2½ | |Space from H to I | 2¼ | +-----------------------------+-------+

Shape off in a gradual curve from D to B, from B to I. Cut in a straight line from D to G. Slope from G to H.

SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A CHILD’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 2.

SCALE.

+----------------------------+-------+ | |Nails. | |Length of square | 4¼ | |Width of square when folded | 3¼ | |Space from A to B | 3 | |Space from B to C | 1¼ | |Space from D to E | ½ | |Space from E to F | 1¾ | |Space from E to G | 1¾ | |Space from G to H | 2 | +----------------------------+-------+

Cut in a straight line from C to J. Curve gradually from F to G, and from B to H.

A VERY NEAT SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A WOMAN’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 3

SCALE.

+----------------------------+---------------+-------------+ | ———————— |Shoulder-piece.| Collar for a| | | |baby’s cloak.| +----------------------------+---------------+-------------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | |Length of square | 4¼ | 4 | |Width of square when double | 3¾ | 3½ | |Space from A to B | 2¼ | 1½ | |Space from B to C | 2 | 2½ | |Space from C to D | 1¾ | 1½ | |Space from D to E | 2 | 2 | |Space from E to F | 1¾ | 2 | |Space from F to G | 2½ | 2 | |Space from G to H | 1½ | 2 | +----------------------------+---------------+-------------+

Form the curve from B to H, so as to end without abruptness, and be lost in the straight line. Round well from B to D.

SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A BABY’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 4.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| |Length of square | 3 | |Width of square when doubled | 3 | |Space from A to B | 2½ | |Space from B to C | ½ | |Space from C to D | ½ | |Space from D to E | 2½ | |Space from E to F | 1½ | |Space from F to G | 1½ | |Space from G to H | 1 | +-----------------------------+-------+

SHOULDER-PIECE TO A CHILD’S PELISSE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 5.

This shape is much in use for spencers, pelisses, and boys’ high dresses. The part marked S sets over the shoulder when the sleeve is fulled on at the top. The parts marked B and F lie in the middle, exactly behind, and in front; thus the pattern shows half the shoulder-piece, the curve being for half round the neck. The other half is piped and sewed on to it in front, and is fastened behind by buttons. The fulness of the body is then sewed on to this shoulder-piece, which is piped all round.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| |Length of square | 3 | |Width of square | 3¼ | |Space from A to B | ¾ | |Space from B to C | 2¼ | |Space from C to D | 1¼ | |Space from D to E | ½ | |Space from E to F | 1½ | |Space from F to G | 1½ | |Space from G to H, and from H to L | 1 | +-----------------------------------+-------+

VARIOUS SIZES FOR CAPES AND TIPPETS FOR WOMEN AND CHILDREN.

PLATE 13. FIG. 6.

Column 1. A woman’s large cape for walking in. Column 2. A woman’s large cape for morning dress. Column 3. A child’s large cape for walking in. Column 4. A woman’s collar. Column 5. A child’s pretty cape for morning dress. Column 6. A child’s cape for a pelisse. Column 7. Pretty cape for the morning dress of a child of four or five years old. The Plate represents the pattern in the fourth column.

SCALE.

+-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+ | ———————— |No. 1.|No. 2.|No. 3.|No. 4.|No. 5.|No. 6.|No. 7.| +-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+ | |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| |Length of square | 12½ | 9¾ | 8½ | 7¾ | 8 | 7¼ | 6½ | |Width of square | | | | | | | | | doubled | 8¾ | 7¾ | 5½ | 5½ | 5 | 4¾ | 4½ | |Width from A to B| 6½ | 4½ | 4½ | 4¾ | 5 | 3 | 3 | |Width from B to C| 6 | 5¼ | 4 | 3 | 3 | 4¼ | 3½ | |Width from C to D| 3¾ | 2¼ | 1½ | 1½ | 2½ | 2¾ | 1 | |Width from D to E| 5 | 5½ | 4 | 3½ | 2½ | 2 | 3½ | |Width from E to F| 2¾ | 1¾ | 2½ | 1½ | 2½ | 2 | 1 | |Width from F to G| 1½ | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¾ | ½ | ½ | 1 | |Width from F to H| 2¼ | 2 | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¾ | 3¼ | |Width from H to I| 7 | 5¾ | 4¼ | 4½ | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ | |Width from I to J| 3¾ | 3 | ¼ | ½ | 1 | ¼ | | +-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+

PLATE 13. FIG. 7.

Column 1. A neat collar for a woman’s cloak or dressing-gown. Column 2. Rather smaller pattern of the above. Column 3. A very neat collar for a girl of fourteen. Column 4. A collar for a baby’s flannel cloak. The Plate represents column 2.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+ | ———————— |No. 1.|No. 2.| No. 3.|No. 4.| +------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+ | |Nails.|Nails.| Nails.|Nails.| | Length of square | 5½ | 5 | 4½ | 4 | | Width of square when doubled | 5¾ | 5½ | 5½ | 5 | | Space from A to B | 1¾ | 1 | corner| ½ | | | | |rounded| | | Space from B to C | 3¾ | 4 | 4 | 3½ | | Space from C to D | 3¼ | 3 | 2 | 2 | | Space from D to E | 2 | 2½ | 3½ | 3 | | Space from E to F | 2½ | 2¼ | 1¼ | 1 | | Space from F to G | 3 | 2¾ | 3¼ | 3 | | Space from G to H | ½ | ½ | | | +------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+

In column 3, mark one quarter of a nail above the corner, G, and slope off in a direct line from the mark to the opposite corner, A, which is merely rounded off at the corner, about a quarter of a nail on each side.

PLATE 13. FIG. 8.

A pretty collar to put on a silk mourning shawl, or for a dress or cloak. Both the back and front must be on the cross.

SCALE.

+-------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | Length of square | 7½ | | Width of square | 6½ | | Space from A to B | 5½ | | Space from B to C | 2 | | Space from C to D | 5 | | Space from D to E | 1½ | | Space from E to F | 3½ | | Space from F to G | 4 | | Space from G to H | 2½ | +-------------------+-------+

A PARTICULARLY NEAT AND WELL-SETTING CAPE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 9.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | Length of square | 12 | | Width of square when doubled | 8 | | Space from A to B | 4 | | Space from B to C | 8 | | Space from C to D | 3 | | Space from D to E | 5 | | Space from E to F | 3¾ | | Space from F to G | 2 | | Space from F to H | 3 | | Space from H to I | 5¼ | | Space from I to J | 1¾ | +------------------------------+-------+

PLATE 13. FIG. 10, 11.

Fig. 11 is a very pretty pattern for a walking cape, and is often worn in mourning, with black crape gaufiered round the edge a nail deep, as in the Plate. Fig. 10 is a simple collarette, which is sewed on the cape to give it a finish.

SCALE TO FIG. 10.

+------------------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | Length of square | 4¼ | | Width of square when doubled | 5½ | | Space from A to B | 1 | | Space from B to C | 3½ | | Space from C to D | 2½ | | Space from D to E | 3 | | Space from E to F | 2 | | Space from F to G | 2¼ | | Space from G to H | 2 | +------------------------------+-------+

SCALE TO FIG. 11.

+------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 7½ | | Width of square when doubled | 10½ | | Space from A to B | 6½ | | Space from B to C | 1 | | Space from C to D | 1 | | Space from D to E | 4 | | Space from E to F | 5½ | | Space from F to G | 1½ | | Space from G to H | 3 | | Space from G to I | 6 | | Space from I to J | 7 | +------------------------------+--------+

A REMARKABLY NEAT MORNING COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 12.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 10 | | Width of square when doubled | 7½ | | Space from A to B | 2¾ | | Space from B to C | 7¼ | | Space from C to D | 3½ | | Space from D to E | 4 | | Space from E to F | 2 | | Space from F to G | 1½ | | Space from F to H | 2¼ | | Space from H to I | 5¾ | +------------------------------+--------+

A PRETTY LITTLE CAPE FOR A BABY’S CLOAK OR PELISSE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 13.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 3¼ | | Width of square when doubled | 3 | | Space from A to B | 1¼ | | Space from B to C | 2 | | Space from C to D | 1¼ | | Space from D to E | 1¾ | | Space from E to F | ½ | | Space from F to G | 1 | | Space from F to H | ¾ | | Space from H to I | 2 | +------------------------------+--------+

SMALL COLLAR TO BE SEWED TO A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 14.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 4 | | Width of square when doubled | 4½ | | Space from A to B | 1 | | Space from B to C | 3 | | Space from C to D | 1 | | Space from D to E | 3½ | | Space from E to F | 1 | | Space from F to G | 3 | +------------------------------+--------+

PLATE 13. FIG. 15, 16.

Fig. 15, is the pattern of a very handsome long pointed cape, commonly worn to rich silk cloaks and sometimes alone; when that is the case, they are frequently made of velvet or fine cloth, and trimmed with fur or swan’s down.

The cape is made as follows:—Sew together three breadths of the material, eight nails and a half long and about eight nails wide (of course a less number of breadths will be required, if the material be much wider, as merinos, &c.), to each end of the three breadths thus sewed in one length, add another breadth, which, as in Fig. 15 (see A), is eight and a half nails deep at one end, and twelve nails deep at the other, the material being cut in a straight line from B to C.

A GOOD SHAPE FOR A LADY’S RIDING COLLAR, TO BE SEWED TO A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 17.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | Length of square | 4 | | Width of square when doubled | 4 | | Space from A to B | 2 | | Space from B to C | 2 | | Space from C to D | 1½ | | Space from D to E | 2½ | | Space from E to F | 1¾ | | Space from F to G | 2¼ | +------------------------------+-------+

These collars are made of a doubled piece of lawn, which being run together and turned inside out, are neatly stitched near the edge like gentlemen’s collars.

A CHEMISETTE DE VIERGE, MODESTY, OR TUCKER.

PLATE 13. FIG. 18.

This is but a quarter of the article, and when the paper pattern is made from the drawing, it should be doubled, so that when cut, it forms half the chemisette, which if it is again laid on a piece of muslin or net doubled, the two sides may be cut at once.

Chemisettes are worn under evening dresses, and are trimmed with blonde, lace, or muslin edging, which should just be seen above the gown. The part marked S is the shoulder. The chemisette is put on over the head and draws round the waist by a tape.

SCALE.

+-------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | Length of square | 4¾ | | Width of square | 4¼ | | Space from A to B | 3¾ | | Space from B to C | 1 | | Space from C to D | 1 | | Space from D to E | 3¼ | | Space from E to F | 1½ | | Space from F to G | 3¾ | +-------------------+-------+

A BABY’S COLLARETTE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 19.

This is particularly neat for a baby’s pelisse, and may be sewed on to the shoulder-piece. (Fig. 5).

SCALE.

+------------------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | Length of square | 3¾ | | Width of square when doubled | 4 | | Space from A to B | 2¼ | | Space from B to C | 1½ | | Space from C to D | 1¼ | | Space from D to E | 2 | | Space from E to F | ¾ | | Space from F to G | 2½ | | Space from G to H | 1¼ | | Space from H to I | 1½ | +------------------------------+-------+

This collarette should be piped all round, and edged with work, excepting the curve, which goes half round the neck. Two half collarettes must be cut, one for the right, and one for the left side of the neck.

A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 20, 23.

Fig. 23 represents half of the back of a habit-shirt. Fig. 20, one of the two fronts which are sewed on to the back at the shoulder, the parts marked in each figure, S, being the corresponding pieces.

SCALE TO FIG. 23.

+----------------------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | Length of the square | 8½ | | Width of the square when doubled | 4 | | Space from A to B | 6½ | | Space from B to C | 2 | | Space from C to D | 2¼ | | Space from D to E | 1¼ | | Space from E to F | 1 | +----------------------------------+-------+

This back, which, of course is cut in the whole piece, has a tape passed through a hem at the bottom, which tape also passes through the hems at the bottom of the two fronts, and ties before.

SCALE TO FIG. 20.

+---------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of the square | 6¼ | | Width of the square | 6 | | Space from A to B | 5¼ | | Space from B to C | 1 | | Space from C to D | 4 | | Space from D to E | 2 | | Space from E to F | 1¼ | | Space from F to G | 5 | +---------------------------+--------+

This figure represents one of the fronts of the habit-shirt; the part marked D is the front, S is the shoulder; where the two fronts meet they may be fastened by small buttons, and sometimes work is let in, or narrow tucks made, which have a neat effect. Below the shoulder, and down the front, it is finished with a narrow hem. A collar may be sewed to it at the neck, by a mantua-maker’s hem.

A MOURNING COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 21.

Made of clear muslin, white crape, widow’s lawn, net or tulle, with a broad hem one nail deep all round.

SCALE.

+------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 5½ | | Width of square | 6 | | From A to B | 5½ | | From B to C | 2½ | | From C to D | 3½ | | From D to E | 2½ | | From E to F | 3 | +------------------+--------+

The hems to these collars are generally laid on, by being run at the edge, and then turned back and hemmed, this is a much neater plan than any other. Sometimes two collars with deep hems are worn one above the other.

For mourning collars of net with either a broad hem, frills with deep hems, or gaufiered frills are used. If the mourning is very deep, the muslin collar is covered with black crape.

A ROUND CAPE OR TIPPET.

PLATE 13. FIG. 22.

No scale can be made to this tippet, as the size is only determined according to the purpose for which it is to be used. Form a perfect circle, and slit from the outer edge of the circle A to the centre B, after which cut out a piece for the neck. This is a very good shape for school girls, it also makes a useful dressing or combing tippet.

A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 24.

This is a very simple neat shape for a habit-shirt. T is the front, and D the middle of the back. It is all cut in one piece, and the part marked B may be laid against the selvage; S is the shoulder.

SCALE.

+-------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | Length of square | 6 | | Width of square | 10 | | Space from A to B | 4 | | Space from B to C | 3 | | Space from B to D | 2 | | Space from D to E | 6 | | Space from E to F | 4 | +-------------------+-------+

Cut in a straight line from C to A, and square the corner off at A.

A PELERINE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 25.

The back is on the cross and the front is straight.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of oblong | 7 | | Width of oblong when doubled | 13 | | Space from A to B | 6½ | | Space from B to C | ½ | | Space from C to D | 6 | | Space from D to E | 3 | | Space from E to F | 1 | | Space from E to G | 4 | | Space from H to I | 4 | | Space from I to J | 1¼ | | Space from I to K | 3 | | Space from K to L | ¾ | +------------------------------+--------+

PLATE 13. FIG. 26.

This is a very simple collar, and much worn by persons of quiet unassuming habits. It is composed of two oblong strips of muslin, hemmed all round with rather a broad hem, and sewed together at the ends half the way up. Each oblong is four nails long and about three nails deep.

A REMARKABLY PRETTY PELERINE FOR A MORNING DRESS.

PLATE 13. FIG. 27.

SCALE.

+-------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 5 | | Width of square | 11 | | Space from A to B | 3½ | | Space from B to C | 1½ | | Space from C to D | 5 | | Space from D to E | 2½ | | Space from E to F | 3½ | | Space from F to G | 2 | | Space from F to H | 3 | | Space from H to I | 5 | +-------------------+--------+

PLATE 13. FIG. 28.

This is the pattern of a very handsome long pelerine. The part marked S must be laid along the selvage. Of course this is in two parts, both of which will nearly lie side by side on the opposite selvages of the same breadth.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of the square | 21 | | Width of the square | 8 | | Space from A to B | 14 | | Space from B to C | 3 | | Space from C to D | 1 | | Space from D to E | 4 | | Space from E to F | 5½ | | Space from F to G | 2½ | | Space from G to H | 6 | | Space from H to I | 4 | | Space from I to J | 5½ | | Space from J to K | 1 | | Space from K to L | 1½ | | Space from I to M | 11 | | Space from M to N | 4 | +----------------------+--------+

A HANDSOME SHAPE FOR A PELERINE WITH A SQUARE COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 29.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 7 | | Width of square when doubled | 12 | | Space from A to B | 6½ | | Space from B to C | 4 | | Space from C to D | 2½ | | Space from C to E | 2 | | Space from E to F | 3 | | Space from F to G | 3 | | Space from G to H | 4 | | Space from H to I | 1 | | Space from I to J | 3 | | Space from I to K | 2 | | Space from K to L | 4 | | Space from L to M | 4½ | | Space from M to N | 2 | +------------------------------+--------+

The letters E, F, J, and D, point out the shape of the upper collar.

PLATE 13. FIG. 30.

This is a frill to go over each shoulder of a cape or pelerine, as a finish, and is peculiarly adapted to Fig. 25, 27.

SCALE TO FIG. 30.

+----------------------+-------+ | | Nails.| | Length of the square | 8 | | Width of the square | 10 | +----------------------+-------+

Draw a straight line across from A to B, which are situated one nail within the corners of the square.

SCALE.

+----------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Space from the corner to C | 7 | | Space from C to E | 2 | | Space from C to D | 3½ | | Space from F to the corner | 1 | +----------------------------+--------+

Curve, according to the pattern, from the corner to E. The cross part is then fulled on to the pelerine, leaving about two nails from the front and back points.

A CAPE FOR A BABY’S PELISSE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 31.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 5 | | Width of square when doubled | 5 | | Space from A to B | 3 | | Space from B to C | 2 | | Space from C to D | 1½ | | Space from D to E | 1 | | Space from E to F | 2½ | | Space from F to G | 1½ | | Space from G to H | 1 | | Space from H to I | 2½ | | Space from I to J | 3 | +------------------------------+--------+

ANOTHER SHOULDER-PIECE, OR NEAT COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 32.

If used for the latter, it may be made with a hem all round, through which a coloured or white satin ribbon may be drawn of about twopenny width. A single or double frill of net should be sewed round it, with a corresponding hem for ribbon. This frill, after the hem is made, should be a full nail deep.

SCALE.

+------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 4 | | Width of square when doubled | 4 | | Space from A to B | 2 | | Space from B to C | 2 | | Space from C to D | 1½ | | Space from D to E | 2½ | | Space from E to F | 1¼ | +------------------------------+--------+

A MODESTY, OR TUCKER.

PLATE 13. FIG. 33.

This little front, or modesty, is to put inside a low dress, and may be made very prettily. The materials most in use for them are cambric, lawn, muslin, net, tulle, satin, or crape. They are generally tucked, or in folds, or frilled into strips of insertion-work, either the length or the width-way, and always trimmed with a little work or edging on the top. When made, they are about three nails deep, and five nails wide at the top, and tapering to three nails at the waist. They are almost always made the straight way, particularly when they are intended to wash.

A SIMPLE COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 34.

This is a particularly simple pretty collar, and is frequently made of net or muslin, trimmed with narrow work or muslin. It has a broad hem all round, through which satin ribbon is passed. The collar is merely a straight piece, eight nails deep and fourteen nails wide. Double it in half length-wise, and also width-wise to find the centre, and then cut in a straight line from A B, at the top, to the centre. The points, A B, each fall over, as seen in the Plate, and give the appearance of a second collar. The ends should be a little hollowed out, to make the whole set better.

ANOTHER HANDSOME PELERINE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 35.

SCALE.

+-------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 8 | | Width of square | 11 | | Space from A to B | 8 | | Space from B to C | 4 | | Space from C to D | 1¼ | | Space from C to E | 2 | | Space from D to F | 5 | | Space from F to G | 4 | | Space from G to H | 2 | | Space from H to I | 2½ | | Space from H to J | 2 | | Space from J to K | 7 | | Space from K to L | 3 | | Space from K to M | 2 | +-------------------+--------+

The corner or tip to be rounded off, beginning at two nails from A, at the bottom, to one nail above A, at the side.

A ROUND COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 36.

This is a small and simple shape for a round collar, with a smaller one upon it. When the larger is cut, the lesser one may be cut by the eye, only taking notice to shape it off more abruptly in front than the other.

SCALE.

+-------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Length of square | 6½ | | Width of square | 5½ | | Space from A to B | 3½ | | Space from B to C | 3 | | Space from C to D | 1¾ | | Space from D to E | 3¼ | | Space from E to F | ¾ | | Space from F to G | 1½ | | Space from F to H | 2¼ | | Space from H to I | 3½ | +-------------------+--------+

A SCHOOL-GIRL’S TIPPET.

PLATE 16. FIG. 37, 38.

This is an economical mode of making tippets for poor children, or charity schools, of remnants of cloth, print, &c. Cut a circle in paper, of the right size, and pin it on the carpet or table cloth, whilst you arrange strips of your material on it, in regular lines, as in the Fig. 37; two or three strips may cross each other at right angles; between them should be other straight pieces, and then triangular bits will fill up the circle. Black, orange, crimson, blue, and brown cloth, look very well.

ANOTHER SCHOOL-GIRL’S TIPPET.

PLATE 16. FIG. 39. (Near to FIG. 10, 16.)

This is made of the list of flannel, the selvage of cloth, or any other warm material, and is sewed on to calico; cut a lining in the shape required, and beginning at the bottom, place layer above layer, or strip above strip, something in the way that the many capes of a coachman’s great coat are done: the list or cloth is not put on quite flat, but is a very little fulled. It is then lined with flannel or cloth, and is a most comfortable and strong tippet.

PETTICOATS.

PLATE 14.

Petticoats are made of calico, twill, dimity, cambric, and jaconet muslin, sometimes for mourning, or for wearing under thin dresses of silk and satin: for the middling and lower classes, they are of calico, strong dimity, calimanco, stuff, and bombazine: they are made in various ways, which will be described in the following pages, and the patterns given: the figures and sizes of persons differ so essentially that scales will not be attempted.

Petticoats are in three distinct parts—the skirt, the body, and the sleeves, the varieties of each will be treated of in their turn.

SKIRTS.

Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half-breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made: they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners, woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it to hang better. Skirts are generally made with the opening behind, but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams being left unsewed for about four nails from the top; sometimes they are furnished with pockets on one or both sides; for a description of which, see Pockets. Skirts may be set on to the body, either equally full all round, plain under the arms, and full at the front and back, or with all the fulness behind. Servants frequently wear their petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist, without any body, and with or without tape shoulder-straps, to keep them up. Under or middle petticoats are also made in this manner.

BODIES OR WAISTS.

These are made either full or tight to the figure.

[Illustration: PLATE 14.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11

Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17

Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23

Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29

Fig 30 Fig 31 Fig 32 Fig 33 Fig 34

Fig 35 Fig 36 Fig 37 Fig 38 Fig 39 Fig 40

Fig 41 Fig 42 Fig 43 Fig 44 Fig 45

Fig 46 Fig 47

Fig 48 Fig 49 Fig 50 Fig 51 Fig 52 Fig 53 Fig 54 Fig 55]

Tight or plain bodies consist of five parts: the front, two side-pieces, and two backs (see Fig. 1). The front is always cut on the cross, and reaches from below one arm to the other: the side-pieces are also cut crosswise on one side, and straight on the other, the straight side being joined to the front, and that which is cross being stitched to the backs, which are straight behind. Fig. 1 represents a tight body made up, for a small person. Observe that the various directions of the lines drawn on the engravings, represents the selvage-way of the material, as a better guide for the inexperienced. In making up, all the parts should be back-stitched together: the band ought to be very strong; it is often made of webbing or stout tape. Petticoat bodies may be made with or without sleeves, according to the taste of the wearer.

Full bodies are made in a similar manner to tight ones, excepting that two nails more are added in width to the front, so that when laid open it is ten nails and a half at its greatest extent, instead of only seven and a half, like the plain body, and half a nail is also given to each back. The front is cut straight instead of cross, in the full bodies. (See Plate 14, Fig. 2.)

SLEEVES.

For figures of sleeves, see Plate 12 and the descriptions annexed.

NURSING PETTICOATS.

PLATE 14.

For the convenience of those mothers who nurse their infants, the petticoat body in front may be opened in various ways.

PLATE 14. FIG. 3.

The most general mode is simply to have the front of the body in two pieces, so as to open in the middle before, hemming it on each side, and letting the parts tie or button together at the top: it is as well to set the two sides of the front into the band, so that they may overlap each other, in order to guard against cold. This petticoat fastens behind in the usual manner.

PLATE 14. FIG. 4.

Another approved method is that of having the petticoat open on each side in front, so as to be close at the back. This petticoat body is made in four parts: one back, two side pieces, one front. The back piece is cut the straight way, so as to let A B, Fig. 4, lie selvage-wise.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Depth from A to B | 4 | | Width from G to D | 6 | | Width from F to E | 8½ | | Slope it down to H H | 1½ | | Side-piece from below the arm to the waist | 2¼ | | From H to J | 4 | | From J to K cut straight-wise | 3 | | Length of shoulder-straps | 2 | | Breadth of shoulder-straps | 1 | +--------------------------------------------+--------+

The shoulder-straps connect the top of the side-piece with the top of the back. The front of the body is in one piece, being eight nails wide at the top, sloped down to five nails and a half at the bottom; it is four nails deep in the middle, but being hollowed out, is half a nail deeper at the sides. This front has a broad hem all round it, and is set into a band, which is attached to the front breadth of the skirt, the seam on each side of this breadth being open for the space of four nails. Tapes are attached to the band of the back breadth, and tie in front; buttons are set on, to within a nail of the end of the band below the side pieces, to which the band of the front buttons on each side, and by this means overlaps the opening: button-holes are also made at the two corners of the front (see X Z), which correspond with the buttons on the shoulder-strap, Z. The left hand side of Fig. 4 represents the petticoat with the body drawn forward, as if for the purpose of tying it, while the opposite side shows it as if thrown back, ready to put the arm into the sleeve. The front is unfastened and has fallen down.

GOWNS.

PLATE 14.

Gowns being a part of dress much influenced by the fashion or custom of the day, will not be fully entered on in this work, as it would be impossible to give the variety of form and size which is seen in them, and equally impossible, were a selection attempted, to please all tastes, or suit all figures: a few simple patterns for those kinds which are independent of fashion, and especially for those worn by servants, and persons engaged in laborious employments, with a very few other plain ones, will alone come within the limits of the work.

Those commonly worn by servants, and the working classes, are of print, linen, stuff, and for best, light ginghams, merino, or bombazine; ladies wear muslin, gingham, silk, merino, and for dress, either lighter or richer materials, as satins, velvets, gauzes, &c.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The bodies of working gowns should be lined with strong linen, which is preferable to calico, as it does not shrink in the washing; they should be of dark and good washing colours, deep blue and lilac are the best for wear.

It is a good plan to line silk and merino, or stuff gown bodies, with strong linen or brown Holland, as it keeps them in shape, by preventing them from stretching.

In buying striped dresses, be careful that the stripes run selvage-wise, otherwise they are very unbecoming. In making up the bodies, the stripes should lie in the same direction, and not crosswise from shoulder to shoulder.

Checks or plaids are rarely becoming when they are large: for children they should be particularly small and narrow, the colours should not be too bright or gay, but sufficiently contrasted and decided, to give a clear clean effect; plaids of which the colours are pale and indistinct never look very well; and after wearing a short time appear faded and shabby.

Checks are becoming to tall people, and stripes to short ones, as the former rather diminish, while the latter give an appearance of greater length to the figure than is natural to it, in the same way that a striped paper makes a room look higher, than one which is checked, or of which the pattern goes round instead of from top to bottom.

Broad hems and deep flounces also tend to lessen the height, it may therefore be taken as a general rule that tall persons should endeavour to add to their width, by making all the accompaniments to their dress as full and wide, as is consistent with the reigning taste, while those who are short, should let all theirs be as moderate as possible.

The same observations will also apply to stout and thin persons; for the former, all trimmings of the bodies in front, such as rouleaux, folds, and straps, should, generally speaking, be carried from the shoulder to the waist, in preference to being laid on crosswise; while with those who are of a slighter make, it is merely a matter of fancy, only remarking that every advantage of fulness should be given them.

If the trimming of a dress does not exactly match it, care should be taken to select it darker than the dress itself. Waistbands, when shaded, or of two colours, should be always worn with the darkest shade or colour at the bottom of the waist.

The complexion should determine the choice of colours. Persons of a sallow or muddy complexion should carefully avoid bright and glaring, or on the other hand, undecided colours; such as yellow, cherry colour, light green, buff, or drab; clear tints are more suitable to them, as white, light blue, violet, or black.

Those with pale but clear complexions, may wear all the shades of rose colour, primrose, apricot, buff, light green, lilac, brown, and violet.

Fair persons with a colour, will find few shades decidedly unbecoming; perhaps it will be as well for them not to wear buff.

Dark olive or brown complexions should avoid either very dark or very light colours, but they should be careful to select clear tints: pink, geranium, and violet are the most decidedly suitable to them.

On all occasions let the old saying be kept in mind,

“Gaudy colours strike the eye, And magnify deformity.”

These remarks may seem superfluous to some, but as attention to the minutiæ of dress adds much to a lady-like and refined appearance, and as an endeavour to please by an agreeable exterior, does not necessarily involve a disposition to vanity and frivolity, it is hoped that they will not be hastily condemned.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CUTTING OUT DRESSES.

It would be useless to form scales for the different kinds of dresses, as shapes vary so much, therefore none will be introduced, excepting for children and young persons; as, however, this article of dress forms one of the most important parts of a person’s wardrobe, all general observations for cutting out, that can be reduced to rule, will be given as clearly as the subject will admit of, at the same time, it is strongly recommended to all those who can afford it, to have their best dresses invariably made by a mantua-maker, as those which are cut out at home seldom fit so comfortably, or look so well, as when made by persons in constant practice. To those who have large families or limited means, it certainly is a great saving of expense having them made at home, and to such, the following rules may be useful. It would be very advisable, _as a practice_, for persons little acquainted with cutting out, to purchase cheap print for poor children’s dress and by fitting them on, much experience and nicety might be acquired at little waste or expense.

In making a dress for any body, the following measurements should be taken with a piece of common tape.

From the waist to the bottom of the skirt.

From the nape of the neck to the waist behind.

Round the waist.

Round the wrist.

From the shoulder to the wrist, with the arm bent.

In sending to London or elsewhere for a dress or riding habit, of which the exact measure is required, observe the following directions for transmitting measure in inches:—

1. Height of the person, observing if they stand upright. 2. The length of the arm from the centre of the back to the elbow, and thence to the knuckles. 3. The circumference of the body, over the full part of the chest. 4. The circumference of the smallest part of the waist. 5. Length of the nape of the neck to the waist, and thence to the ground. 6. From the front of the armpit to the centre of the bosom, thence to the chest. 7. From the nape of the neck, over the shoulder, to the centre of the bosom, and thence to the waist immediately under it.

PLATE 14.

The bodies of dresses contain various parts, called the fronts, the backs, the side-pieces, the shoulder-straps, the shoulder-pieces, collars, &c., &c. These parts are variously employed and differently cut out, according to the style of the dress, sometimes being on the cross, and sometimes on the straight way.

Observe that the lines in the engravings denote, by their direction, which way the selvage side of the material runs. For the purpose of making this quite clear, let it be supposed that these lines represent stripes which run along or down the selvage.

Linings should always be cut to lie the same direction as the material of the gown.

In cutting out a dress, it is usual to fit the lining upon the figure, and cut out the gown from it, though, with an inexperienced person, it would be advisable to fit on the gown also, if the dress is to be full, or in folds.

Gowns are high, low, three-quartered, plain, or full, open before or behind, all of which sorts will be treated of in their proper order.

SIDE-PIECES.

PLATE 14. FIG. 12, 13.

Most dresses have side-pieces or bits under the arm, to join the backs to the fronts. These side-pieces are cut variously. For stout persons, the selvage-way or stripe should run from the extreme point at the bottom of the back of the side-piece, A, towards the middle of the top, B, of Fig. 12. For slight figures, the selvage-way or stripe should run along, or nearly along the front of the side-piece, thus A B, in Fig. 13.

The size of a side-piece depends much upon the figure and fashion. It should never, however, be brought much forwarder than under the middle of the arm-hole. It varies very much at the back, sometimes being brought but just behind the arm-hole, at others to within a nail of the middle of the back. The side-piece is sometimes cut straight at the back, and at others in a kind of half-arch; the latter is required for stout persons.

BACK SHOULDER-PIECES.

PLATE 14. FIG. 5.

These are not necessary to the set of the gown, and are seldom introduced, unless it is the reigning fashion, or for the better cutting up of the material. When these are used, of course shoulder-straps are unnecessary, as they connect the backs with the fronts. A represents a back shoulder-piece.

SHOULDER-STRAPS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 6, 7.

These are mere straps to connect the fronts and backs, and lie over the shoulder. The straps are always double and are generally sloped at each end, so as to be wider next the sleeve than at the shoulder or neck (see Fig. 7).

SKIRTS.

These vary very much as to the number of breadths, according to fashion and material. Thin clinging materials, as muslin, require more breadths than thick or standing out articles of dress, as silk-gauze, velvet, &c.; six, seven, or eight breadths are worn now for full dresses, but formerly four breadths were deemed sufficient. They are usually lined with thin glazed muslin, unless the dress is very heavy as stuff, merino, &c., it is economical to line the skirt, as it keeps the dress cleaner and makes it look better if turned.

A PLAIN HIGH BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 8.

For stout persons, indeed for the generality of figures, it is preferable to have the fronts of the body in two pieces, with a piping up the middle. In cutting out a high plain body, lay the material upon the person as follows:—

Let the selvage-way or stripe of the cloth lie in the direction from the extreme point of the shoulder, A (see Fig. 8), to the middle of the waist, B. In doing this, pin it at a sufficient distance from the selvage of the material to allow of plenty to cover the front. Thus, pin the material on at A B, which is some distance from the selvage, C D. Stroke the material up to the neck in front and hollow out at the neck, putting pins at C E. The front is thus thrown quite on the cross, up the middle. Do the same on the opposite side. Hollow out towards the arm, and cut off where it meets the side-piece. The back pieces, Fig. 9, always have the selvage up the middle, and are properly fitted to the figure till they meet the side-pieces.

In making up, a piping is laid along each seam, and the edges of the lining, and the dress should be well overcast. The sleeves have piping also round them. The backs should have broad hems, and, together with the waist, be lined with a strong tape or calico.

A FULL FRENCH HIGH BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 10, 11, 14.

This body is also in two parts in front. The material is pinned for the selvage-way, or stripe to run from the side of the neck or collar bone, A, to the middle of the waist, B (in Fig. 10), so as to throw the part up the front but slightly on the cross. Put strong pins in at A B C, to keep the material firm, and then commence laying the material in plaits (see Fig. 11), slanting from the shoulder towards the waist, folding them much deeper at the waist than at the top; five, six, or seven of these plaits are sufficient. In laying them along they should be arranged so that when the last plait is formed, and the plain part of the body pinned under the arm, the selvage-way or stripe should lie almost parallel with, or along with, the waist (see L M, in Fig. 11).

The backs, Fig. 14, are always selvage-way up the middle; the plaits, about three in number, should lie from the shoulder to the middle of the waist in a fan-like direction. They will almost form themselves properly at the top on the shoulder, if first properly pinned on the waist, and the material held up, and slightly pulled or shaken above the shoulder, with one hand, while the other arranges them. They will naturally fall in deeper folds below than above.

A WRAP HIGH DRESS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 15.

This has two fronts, to be cut out as follows:—

Lay the merino, or other material, selvage or stripe-wise from the top of the shoulder, A, to a little beyond the middle of the waist, so as to throw the body a little on the cross up the middle.

The plaits must be formed, while on the person, one after another, slanting from the shoulder, across the middle, to the opposite side of the waist. These plaits should be so folded, as to make the plain part, under the arm, fall selvage-wise along the band.

The back is made to correspond, the selvage is straight up the back, and the material being held tightly above the shoulder at the top, with one hand, the three or four plaits are the more easily arranged by the other, and should be folded over more deeply at the bottom than upon the shoulder. These plaits should exactly meet the others on the shoulder.

The backs and fronts join under the arm without side-pieces. In making up, the plaits should be secured on the shoulder, with a pipe or strap, and again secured about half a nail on each side of the shoulder. The fronts cross, or wrap over, and are well secured to the waistband.

A HIGH FULL GOWN, TO OPEN IN FRONT.

PLATE 14. FIG. 16, 17.

These are particularly suitable for house-maids, dairy or kitchen-maids, chair and washerwomen; they should be made of the strongest print, at 8_d._ or 1_s._ per yard. It is bad economy to buy a cheap poor material for a working dress, under the idea that it will do very well for common purposes, when it is of importance that they should stand a good deal of wear and tear.

For a young person, the skirt is in three breadths of extra-width print, of about eighteen nails; the seams must be sewed up, making one come in the front, which must overlap half a nail down the whole length of the skirt, leaving the hem or seam open for about four nails below the waist. The body is six pieces, having one back, two fronts, two side-pieces, and one collar.

The two fronts are selvage-wise up the middle, and are cut as follows:—Pin the material selvage-wise at A, and at the bottom, lay it in plaits or fullings along the shoulder, to lie towards the waist, and smooth the plain part to fit the shape, till it meets the side-piece, cut it off, and hollow it under the arm. The back-piece, Fig. 17, is in one piece with the selvage, to lie up the middle; therefore, pin it firmly at the middle of the top, A, and at the waist just below, B. Lay the material on each side in fullings or plaits, pinning them down here and there, and, after arranging them at the top, along the back and shoulders, smooth down the plain part, hollow out at the arm-holes, and cut along the shoulders. Cut the side-piece next, and then make a neat simple collar; one like Fig. 7, in Plate 13, would be very suitable. In making up, after cutting out your tight lining, lay each part of the gown upon each piece of the lining, and begin to stitch strongly together all the pieces, laying a piping up every seam, and over-casting the rough edges inside, to make them wear well and look neat. The sleeves are short (see Fig. 24, in Plate 12). The collar and arm-holes are also piped.

Make a broad hem up each side of the front, and put the body into the band; let the fulness be pretty even along the piping on the shoulder, but bring it rather towards the middle of the waistband, in front.

The fulness behind is regular along the shoulders and collar, but drawn towards the centre of the back, at the band. Sew the body on the skirt, put strings or bands, of the same material, of about one nail wide, to tie the dress at the throat. The waistband is one nail deep and about eleven nails long, and can either button or fasten with a strong hook and eye in front.

A HIGH BODY, TO OPEN IN FRONT.

PLATE 14. FIG. 18.

This shape is often worn by elderly ladies, sometimes by servants, and is convenient, as it enables the wearer to dress herself without the assistance of a maid. The gown is open down the two seams at the sides for about four or five nails, so that the front ties round the waist like an apron, being of course well fulled in front into a band, to which strings are attached. The slits at the sides form pocket holes.

The body is sewed on to the skirt behind and opens in front. It has one back, which, if full, is cut with the selvage-way or stripe to lie straight down from the neck to the waist, but if plain, it should be on the cross. The fronts are generally on the cross with the material cut to lie with the stripe or selvage-way, from the extreme point of the shoulder to the middle of the waist. The fronts are continued so as to pin down at the waist, one across the other, over which the front breadth or apron ties.

PLAIN LOW BODY.

Pin the material with the selvage-way or stripe, to lie from the extreme point of the shoulder to the middle of the waist, so as to throw the body quite on the cross up the middle, which is joined with a piping. The backs are always selvage-wise up the middle. Join the backs and fronts with a piping on the shoulder, also at the seams, for the side-pieces. Stitch up the plaits that are made at the bosoms.

ANOTHER FRENCH LOW PLAIN FRONT.

PLATE 14. FIG. 19.

This is in five pieces, two backs, one front, and two side-pieces. The front is all in one piece, and in cutting it out, the material is pinned with the selvage-way or stripe up the middle. Pin it firmly at A and B, at the top and bottom of the middle of the body. Lay the material along to the shoulders, and pin it down again at C. Slope with the scissors from the point of the shoulder to a peak down at the front. The backs are likewise cut selvage-wise up the middle, and peaked from the back to the shoulders: the side-pieces are joined to the front and back by a piping. Make the bosom plaits and stitch them up.

VARIOUS MODES OF TRIMMING LOW BODIES WHEN TIGHT TO THE FIGURE.

PLATE 14.

Tight or plain bodies require some ornament or finish to set them off, a few neat methods of putting on folds, &c., will therefore be explained.

Plate 14, Fig. 20, represents a plain body with the folds sewed on. These folds are in two parts one for each side of the body in front. They are cut crosswise and are only suitable to those gowns which are not of a washing material, they should be from nine to ten nails wide, and as long as will reach from the shoulder to the middle of the waist. In making them up stitch them firmly down on the shoulder in regular plaits, and again about a nail in front of the shoulder. Arrange them as regularly at the waist, sewing them firmly into the middle of the band, exactly to meet or correspond with the folds of the other side.

Plate 14, Fig. 21, represents a plain body with loose folds upon it, the body is made exactly like that of a petticoat, the front may or may not be in two parts, according to pleasure, and convenience; if there is a joining, a piping should be laid between the two parts. If the dress is of a washing material, the folds should be the straight way, and the cross-way if it is not.

The straight folds are merely a piece of muslin or print, six and a half or seven nails long and about seven nails wide, gathered at the top, and neatly biassed two or three times at intervals of half a nail; the upper gathering is then sewed very strongly on the shoulder, where the front joins the shoulder-strap; the bottom is simply hemmed. When worn, this piece is folded in large or small plaits, according to the taste of the wearer, and neatly pinned across under the waist ribbon. This method of making muslin, gingham, or print dresses, is very convenient for the washerwoman.

The loose cross-way folds are very similar. The piece of silk, or other material, must be six nails and a half or seven nails long, and nine nails wide. It is secured, both at the top and bottom, in the proper folds, as in this instance no advantage can accrue from the piece being left unconfined at the bottom, as in the washing gowns. The top is sewed on the shoulder, and, when worn, the folds are pinned under the waist ribbon, as in the kind described above.

Other modes of ornamenting plain bodies are so various, it would be endless to have plates to illustrate each—suffice it to say that bands or rouleaux of satin, silk, gauze, &c., are often laid in various forms. For white gowns, straps, with a neat piping at one or both sides, are generally made; also puffings, frillings, and flouncings. For silks, merinos, &c., satin, silk, or velvet pipings, to straps of the same material as the gown, look well. Sometimes gaufiered or quilled ribbon or lace is employed. For children, braid, bobbin, or coarse netting silk is laid or worked on, in every variety of pattern.

A FRENCH FULL LOW BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 22, 23.

This dress is composed of a kind of plain shoulder-piece round the top, to which the body is fulled all round. This piece is cut as follows:—

Lay the material with the selvage-way or stripe down the middle of the top, in front (see A, Fig. 22), to the extreme point of the shoulder, B, and pin it firmly down. Begin to cut at E, which is at a little distance within B, and slope it along to the middle, A, making it a little on the cross. Cut again, according to taste, either in a peak or slope, from B to D. The backs, which are made to accord with the fronts, are quite straight at the bottom, but a little sloped or hollowed at the top. The fulling for the body is cut variously, according to the texture of the dress. Cotton, muslin, or other thin dresses should have the fulness set in with the selvage-way up the middle; but silk, merino, and other thick dresses are made otherwise. This body is sometimes set in plaits, and is exceedingly pretty. In this case, the width-way of the material lies up the middle.

A GRECIAN LOW BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 24, 25.

This is a remarkably pretty shape, but requires great nicety in arranging it, to make it fit well.

Turn up the corner of your material half-handkerchief way until sufficiently wide, A to B, to reach amply from the middle of the top of the body in front, across the bosom, to the shoulder. The folded part, A C, must next be laid down the middle of the front. Pin A to the top of the middle, and B to the shoulder, and begin to make four or five plaits to lie in the same direction, making them swell more in the middle than at the ends. In arranging these plaits fold in plenty of the material, or they will not set well. Smooth the remainder to the figure, and hollow out under the arm. As the material is double, both sides are thus cut at once. The plaits should be secured twice or three times on the shoulder. The backs, as usual, selvage-wise down the middle, and a few plaits may or may not be added along the top.

A SIMPLE FULL BODY.

Let the width-way of the material lie up the middle in front, and plait it in straight regular folds from top to bottom, letting the last fold be rather deeper, in order to throw the plain part of the body more on the cross. These plaits or fullings should slant a little towards the middle in a fan-like shape.

FULL LOW BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 26, 27, 28, 29.

This is only worn by very young persons and children. It is made nearly like a full petticoat body. The front is in one piece, and may be either the straight or the cross-way, according to pleasure. That in the Plate is a good average size for a girl of ten years old.

The pattern should be cut first in paper. Fig. 27 is the front, D being the doubled part. The measurements need not be repeated, as they are quite accurately given in the Plate. The reason why the front is so much sloped at the lower part, is to make it set better than it would do if left straight; and it is considered preferable to slope the bottom rather than the top of the body: of course it is gathered and sewed to the band in the usual manner. Fig. 28 is one back, and Fig. 29 a side-piece. In making up, if the top of the body is set into a narrow band, instead of having a string-case, the fulness should be pretty equal all round, only making it a little plainer towards the shoulders, but at the bottom of the waist the gathers should be drawn towards the centre, both in front and at the back, which gives a becoming fan-like appearance to it.

VELVET DRESSES.

PLATE 14. FIG. 30.

Velvet dresses have frequently a breadth of satin put in behind, as velvet injures by being sat upon. The great object is to put in the satin so that it shall not be seen when the person who wears it is standing or walking. There are various methods of doing this. The following is one of the best.

The piece of satin is sewed in at the back, in addition to the full number of breadths of velvet. After joining the breadths together, and lining the whole skirt, the two back breadths of velvet are sewed together at the bottom for the depth of about half a yard, the satin being plaited up within them, and not seen at all.

At the top the opening or pocket-hole behind is made in the satin, but not in the velvet, as the two back breadths of velvet are left open all the way up from the half-yard at the bottom, previously mentioned, having the satin between them. The gathers of velvet are sewed in the usual manner into the band, but the satin is sewed back on each side within it, so that when the gown is unfastened the pocket-hole gapes open, and the dress has the appearance given in Fig. 30. S, in the Plate, means the satin, and the V, velvet breadths of the skirt. Instead of putting in a satin breadth, some persons have the back breadth of velvet wadded, which is said to answer well.

NURSING GOWNS.

These must vary according to the pattern of the gown. In a body with folds laid on, the openings must be made in the bosom-gore on each side, which button up, having a fold or flap of silk behind, to prevent any danger of taking cold.

Sometimes a tight body may be made cut in a point from the shoulders to one nail above the waist: over this, full loose folds, confined at the shoulder, may be pinned over at the waist.

A third may be made like a pelisse body, open in the middle of the front.

CHILDREN’S FROCKS AND TUNICS.

PLATE 14.

These should be made of strong and washing materials, as children should be allowed to have full exercise, and not be restrained from running and rolling about, both in doors and out: for this purpose (unless from its extreme delicacy a child requires much additional warmth) cloth, merino, and stuffs are not good or suitable for them; neither are silk, velvet, or gauze, as they soon become dirty and look tumbled, and the child cannot play with ease or comfort.

Jeans, twills, prints, Holland, and nankeen are most proper for the morning dress, and white or coloured muslin, or fine twill, and sometimes washing silks, for an evening.

For children’s simple frocks, refer to the Scales belonging to the description of baby’s frocks.

CHILDREN’S SIMPLE PLAIN FROCKS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 31, 32, 33, 34.

This is the most simple body that can be made, and equally suited to boys and girls.

The body is in three parts—namely, two backs and one front.

The front is cut along the width of the material, and joins the backs on the top of the shoulders and below the arms, so as to require neither side-pieces nor shoulder-straps. This front lies quite plain to the figure, but the backs are made to have two plaits and a broad hem. This body can be ornamented in various ways, either with braid sewed on, or by capes. A very pretty cape is made by cutting a diamond (see Fig. 33), and hollowing it out on the inside exactly to correspond with the neck of the frock.

Fig. 31 represents half the body in front.

Fig. 32 represents half the body behind, when cut out.

Fig. 33 represents the diamond for the cape.

Fig. 34 represents the front, when made up.

The sleeves may be plain, like petticoat sleeves, having three frills laid upon them, and braided at the edge. The skirt to a frock of this size would be about nine nails, including the deep hem of two nails, and about two and a half-breadths wide, each breadth being thirteen nails wide. If there are pockets in front, the slits may be braided round, and are two nails and a half deep. In making up, the body and cape are sewed firmly together to a band at the top, which is ornamented by two lines of braid. The skirt is evenly gathered behind, the gathers lying close together. The remainder is laid in regular plaits all round.

The band round the neck is ten nails long, cut crosswise, and the waistband ten nails long, cut selvage-wise.

A CHILD’S FULL FROCK.

PLATE 14. FIG. 35, 36.

This body is also in three parts, the front and two backs. They are very much fulled, and are both cut the width-way of the material, so that the selvage-way goes up the middle, both before and behind.

For a child of three, four, or five years old, cut the body as follows:—

Cut for each back a piece of six nails along the width-way, and two nails and three-quarters down the selvage-way of the material. Cut for the front a piece of thirteen nails along the width-way, and two nails and three-quarters down the selvage-way of the material. Fold the front in two, very evenly, and lay the two backs upon the two ends of the double front, and pin the four thicknesses together, so as to lie quite firmly and evenly one upon the other, as in Fig. 35. Then with the scissors, after sloping one nail for below the arm, A B, begin to cut, B D, for the arm-hole, cutting into the cloth about half a nail at C. Slope from D, which is half a nail from the top, to E, for the shoulder, letting the part, D E, be three-quarters of a nail. Hollow down from E to F one nail, letting F to G be quite straight, for the bosoms and backs; from G to the bottom is one nail and three-quarters deep.

In making up, after sewing the backs to the front and putting in the sleeves, begin to full in the body to the band round the neck, leaving it plain both before and behind, for about one nail and a quarter from the sleeve.

This band is about eleven nails long, and should be cut on the cross; being doubled in quarters, mark the points for the middle behind and before, and for the two shoulders.

The waistband is also eleven nails selvage-way, and one nail and a quarter wide. The body is gathered at the waist, exactly to correspond with the top.

The skirt of two and a half-breadths, of thirteen nails width, is gathered (not plaited) all round quite evenly. The sleeves are the usual shape (see Plate 12, Fig. 27 or 32). A braid may be laid along the top and band, round the sleeves and the broad hem, and the whole is completed.

CHILD’S SIMPLE THREE-QUARTERS DRESS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 37.

The body has one front and two backs.

For the front, cut a piece of thirteen nails width-way, and two nails and three-quarters selvage-way of the material; and the back pieces each six nails width-way, and two nails and three-quarters selvage-way of the material.

In cutting the arm-holes, leave one nail and three-quarters under the arm, and cut into the cloth three-quarters of a nail. Leave nearly three-quarters of a nail for the shoulders. In making up the frock, prepare a piping of ten nails and a half long, and a waistband of eleven nails and a half. Divide the piping into four parts, and then begin laying the plaits to go from the shoulders rather towards the middle of the waist, as in Fig. 10, sewing them firmly with piping at the top. The back is similar to the front. The skirt is laid in regular plaits all round. The sleeves are fulled or plaited evenly at the shoulder, and confined by a strap a little below it. A frill may be put round the sleeve.

A CHILD’S PLAIN DRESS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 38, 39, 40.

This frock has two backs, two side front-pieces, and one centre front-piece.

The backs, Fig. 38, are cut with the selvage-way up the middle; they are first fitted on the figure to set plainly, afterwards, allowing two extra nails in width for the fulness, they are hollowed out for the arm-hole, leaving one nail and a half under the arm. The side fronts, Fig. 39, are cut a little on the cross, so that the selvage-way or stripe leans in the same direction with the strap or piping which joins the centre-piece. The centre-piece, Fig. 40, is cut quite on the cross, for which purpose, turn up a piece of material half-handkerchief way, and lay it in fourteen or fifteen regular plaits. This centre-piece, when plaited up, should form a triangular piece of two nails deep, three nails and a half at its greatest width, and half a nail at its narrowest. Put a band from each side of the triangle to the back, to confine the gathers. The front requires no band.

A CHILD’S FULL FROCK.

PLATE 14. FIG. 41.

This frock has body and skirt all cut in one piece.

For a child’s frock, of two, four, or five years old, cut two breadths and a half of the proper length, from the shoulder to the bottom of the skirt. Double it in four, like a pinafore, slope for the shoulder, and hollow it out for the arm-holes. Cut a band crosswise of the proper length, from ten to twelve nails, and pipe it on each side; after which, confine the top into it in regular gathers. After marking a proper depth for the body, gather the skirt again in two rows, upon which lay a waistband piped on each side. To this dress may be worn long sleeves, which are piped round the arm-hole, and plaited evenly with a strap a little below, to confine the plaits. This dress is very pretty, when made in spotted or figured muslins or prints. The piping should be matched with the darkest shade on the dress. Sometimes three buttons, covered with the same as the piping, are worn on the shoulders.

CHILD’S MORNING DRESS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 42.

This looks very neat when made of Holland, and is a useful dress to put on, for keeping the under clothes clean; it also looks well in any other material. The skirt and body, all in one, is doubled in four, and the arm-holes cut from the top, without sloping any for the shoulders. A shoulder-piece is made of the proper size (see Plate 13), to which the skirt is fulled, with a piping, in regular plaits. Set on the sleeves also to the shoulder-piece, and full the skirt again in two rows, on which lay the waistband, also piped. A collar or neck-band is put on, to finish it at the neck. The sleeves are strongly biassed, or confined by a strap, laid on regular plaits, a little below the shoulder.

DRESS FOR A BOY OF FOUR YEARS OLD.

PLATE 14. FIG. 43.

This little frock may be worn with or without trowsers.

The width must be regulated of course by that of the material; if nankeen is preferred, it being only six nails wide, six breadths must be put in. Divide it into four, cut the arm-holes and a slit behind, put in the sleeves, and then set it in double plaits all round, behind, and before, to a band the proper width to fit the child’s neck. On the edge of each plait, lay a piece of silk braid, which reaches to the waist and then turns and is brought up at the other side (see the Plate). A runner or string-case is made inside, at the bottom of the waist, for strings to draw, and a deep hem at the bottom of the frock.

A BOY’S JEAN TUNIC.

PLATE 14. FIG. 46, 47.

This is worn by boys of five and six years old, with trowsers of white or some material to match the dress, which is of coloured jean or gingham cloth.

Cut a shoulder-piece similar to Fig. 5, Plate 13.

The skirt is in three breadths, and when they are sewed together, it is doubled like a pinafore, to cut out the arm-holes. It is then gathered before and behind to the shoulder-piece, which has previously been piped all round. The sleeves are also fulled into the shoulder-piece, leaving sufficient plain of them to sew into the arm-hole of the skirt, which is about one nail and a half deep. A robing is put on in the front. The dress is braided in front, and round the shoulder-piece and collar. The bottom of the skirt is turned up two nails and a half, and braided above the hem. The dress is open behind. A belt is cut out, as in Fig. 47, which is braided round each square, and fastens behind with hooks and eyes, or buttons. The sleeve is finished with braiding.

SURTOUT FOR A BOY OF FIVE OR SIX YEARS OLD.

PLATE 14. FIG. 44, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52.

This is made of cloth, lined with silk or net, according to pleasure, and trimmed with flat black braid.

The body is separate from the skirt. The former is in five parts; viz. the back, two side-pieces, and two fronts.

For the back, Fig. 50, let your paper be four nails long, and five nails and a half wide. Fold it in half its width, letting D be the doubled part or middle of the back. Mark as follows:—

SCALE.

+-------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | 2¼ | | From B to C | ¾ | | From C to E | 1 | | From E to F | 1¼ | | From F to G | 1½ | | From A to H | 1½ | +-------------+--------+

Cut from H to B, and from C to F.

For the front, Fig. 51, cut your paper three nails and three-quarters wide and five nails and a quarter long.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From the bottom to J | 1¾ | | From K to the side | 1 | | From K to the top | ½ | | From L to M | 2¾ | | From M to N | 1¼ | | From N to O | 2¼ | | From P to the side | ¼ | +----------------------+--------+

Slope from J to K for the arm-hole. Cut from K to M for the shoulder. From M to O for the neck. Slope from O to P.

For the side-piece, Fig. 52, cut your paper one nail and a half wide and three nails long.

SCALE.

+--------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From Q to R | 1¼ | | From the side to S | ¾ | | From the top to S | ⅛ | | From T to U | ¼ | +--------------------+--------+

Cut from V to R, and again from R to S. Curve from S to T. The small collar, or band, is attached to O M, Fig. 51, and F G, Fig. 50. Of course the other side of the body is made up in a similar manner.

The skirt must be next put together, and the back-piece, Fig. 48, being opened, the two fronts, Fig. 49, being also opened out, C F, Fig. 48, is sewed to G H, Fig. 49, it is then set on to the body in regular plaits, and left open in the front.

The body should be lined entirely with tailors’ twilled silk, and part of the front breadths with the same, each with half a breadth of silk. The parts should all be strongly and neatly back-stitched together, and braid laid on all the seams of the body. The hooks and eyes are put on between the lining and the cloth. The skirt is hemmed and braided in front.

The dress is worn with a broad black band. Trowsers made to button at the side, and an under waistcoat, are worn with this surtout.

CHILD’S FIRST PELISSE

PLATE 17. FIG. 45, 53, 54, 55.

These are made of gingham, jean, cloth, merino, or silk. The former are the best for the summer, and cloth for the winter.

For the skirt, take three breadths of about eleven nails wide and nine nails long. Sew up the seams, make a deep hem of one nail and a half, on which is sewed a broad flat braid. The opening behind or pocket-hole, should be made in one of the seams.

The body is in three parts, besides the collar; viz. one front and two back pieces. For the front-piece, Fig. 53, cut your paper seven nails wide and three nails and a half long. Fold it in half its width, making it a perfect square, and letting D be the doubled part, as in Fig. 53.

SCALE.

+----------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | ¼ | | From the corner, B, to C | 1¼ | | From the side to E | ¾ | | From the top to E | ½ | | From the lower corner to F | 1¼ | | From the corner to G | 2 | +----------------------------+--------+

Curve from A to C. Cut straight from C to E. Curve, for the arm-hole, from E to F. Cut in a line from F to G.

For the back, Fig. 54, cut your paper three nails and a half square.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | ¾ | | From B to the top | 2½ | | From the top to O | ¾ | | From the side to O | ¾ | | From the corner to F | 1¾ | | From the corner to H | ½ | | From A to J | ½ | +----------------------+--------+

Cut from J to B. Curve from B to O. Cut in a straight line from O to F. Curve gently from F to H.

The collar is in two parts. For each part let your paper pattern be three nails wide and two nails and a half long.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From N to the bottom | 1½ | | From O to the corner | 1 | | From J to the top | ¼ | | From J to K | ½ | | Leaving from K to L | 1¾ | | From the corner to M | 1 | +----------------------+--------+

Slope from O to N, and from O to J. Curve from K to M.

In making up, sew O F, Fig. 54, to E C, Fig. 53, for the shoulder. F G, Fig. 53, is placed against B J, Fig. 54.

The skirt is fulled on evenly all round. The collar, cuffs, and top of the hem may have a bordering of braid or work, and a trimming of the same may be put down the front of the skirt.

A cape, or tippet, is added to it, which is made separate.

CARE OF THE LADY’S WARDROBE.

“Order is the best economy of time.”

It is of great consequence that dresses should be carefully and neatly put away, as their preservation depends much on the attention paid to this: a gown smoothly folded, and laid by directly it is taken off, will last half as long again as one that is thrown about upon dirty chairs, or tumbled and creased in the wrapping up. The dresses that are in constant use may be hung up in a closet; but those that are only occasionally worn, should be folded up and wrapped either in a linen cloth, or covered with the coarsest brown paper; the latter is particularly good for white silk or satin dresses, as the turpentine in it excludes the air, and thus preserves the colour more effectually than any thing else.

The best way to fold up a dress, either when put away or packed up, is as follows:—

Place your gown upon a bed, so that the front and back breadths, lay one upon the other quite flatly, the back breadth being uppermost, and the slit behind in the centre, then fold the two outer sides over, so as to make them meet down the middle of the back; take hold at the bottom of the skirt, and double it underneath the gown for about a quarter of a yard deep, then fold the upper part of the skirt forwards, to lie above it, turn back the body and arrange it and the sleeves neatly, so as not to crush them or the trimming, turning the sleeves in towards the middle; then take hold of the upper two folds of the gown, and by lifting them up, the tail falls down again without displacing the upper part of the dress: this tail or bottom of the gown is then turned up over the sleeves and body: a pin is put in at each end, and thus the dress may be carried about, or packed up, without tumbling it in the least. It may be well to mention that the reason the bottom of the skirt is turned up in the first instance, is to determine the size to which the body is to be folded, and the reason why it is let down in the second, is, that it may preserve the body, &c., from being crushed. The dress may be folded to fit any drawer or trunk by wrapping the sides more or less over each other in the middle. This is called the French method of folding; it may appear rather complicated at first, but by exactly following the directions here given, and a little practice, it will soon become easy.

To wrap up a child’s frock, place it on a bed, so that the front and back breadths lie one upon the other quite flatly, the back being uppermost; fold the skirt once or twice, according to the length, letting the body lie upon the skirt, and turn the two ends over the centre.

After travelling, dresses are apt to be creased, they should therefore be hung up, either in a closet, or on hooks fixed in the wall; they should never be pinned to bed or window curtains, as this very bad practice is apt to tear the chintz.

Care should be taken to separate mourning from coloured dresses, winter clothing from that worn in the summer, perfectly white articles from those of a dark colour, as they are liable to be soiled and injured by coming in contact with each other.

Stains, grease spots, &c., &c., should always be taken out as soon as possible, or they may become fixed in the silk or other material (see Receipts). After walking in dusty or dirty weather, the dress should be carefully wiped with a clean towel or handkerchief: if splashed with mire, it should be dried first, and then rubbed clean with the hand and a cloth.

Caps or bonnets should be put on cap poles when they are laid by, but as these take a great deal of room, it is a good plan to have hooks or branches fixed in the wardrobe for the purpose.

After being out in the damp, wadding or tissue paper should be put in the bows of a bonnet, until they are quite dry, and then removed, lest from its weight it should pull the ribbon out of shape.

Veils should be stretched out on a bed to dry after having been worn in the damp: if this be not done, they will dry tumbled and creased.

Shawls should never be put away whilst they are at all damp, nor left folded as worn, but wrapped up properly.

For those persons who have not ample space for the number of drawers, &c., requisite to contain their clothes, it is a good plan to have a long narrow ottoman, settee, or sofa, without backs or ends, which is made hollow, and to open: it might be the proper length to stand at the foot of a bed, in a window, &c., &c. These are useful to contain bonnets, furs, or for putting away winter or summer clothing. Plate 21, Fig. 2, 4.

A dressing stool might also be contrived hollow, which would hold soiled linen, &c. Plate 21, Fig. 2.

An exact inventory of the linen should be kept in the wardrobe or drawers.

Plate 21, Fig. 1, represents a very convenient wardrobe for ladies’ dresses, heavy linen, bonnets, caps, furs, sleeves, &c., and is contrived as follows. The centre is divided into two compartments, the upper is enclosed with doors, and contains sliding shelves or trays for dresses, collars, &c., the rest, consisting of drawers, contains the heavy linen. The left hand wing has one door from top to bottom, in which a mirror is fixed. This closet is intended for dresses to be hung in, and the drawers below to put away furs, &c. The closet on the other side holds bonnets in the upper part, and shoes in the lower, each part having a door to itself.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PACKING.

Arrange so that your heavy linen, books, &c., shall go in strong trunks, whilst the lighter articles may be put in boxes.

Every leather trunk or portmanteau, should have the name and residence of the owner engraved on a brass plate, in the middle, at the top: these trunks should have leather or sacking cases (for the latter, see Plate 24), to fit them: the cases are made to have an opening just above the plate, so that if going home the person needs no other direction, but in case he is travelling elsewhere, holes are made in the cover all round the edge of the aperture, to which a card may be fixed, with the address.

The keys should each be labelled with the name of the trunk, or box, as Imperial Portmanteau, No. 1., &c.

No trunk should be filled so as to strain the hinges.

Every trunk or portmanteau should have straps fixed in the inside half way up, in order to strap down when the linen is packed over the three flat sticks joined together with webbing, which it is usual to lay at the top of trunks. These sticks are of great use in keeping the linen flat and in its place. Tapes should be nailed across the top of the trunk in the inside, for inventories, &c., to be slipped into.

Carpet bags should be purchased with large gores at the sides, as when thus made, they contain many more articles, and more conveniently than when they are only two plain pieces of carpet. They should also have a brass plate.

When gentlemen travel much between two places, it is well to have the brass plate moveable, and engraved with one address on each side, so that nothing is necessary but to turn it, thereby preventing the necessity of constantly renewing the written directions: this plate is fastened at one end by a pivot, which is secured between the two locks (every bag should have two locks), at the mouth of the bag, and at the other end of the plate is a brass loop, which is fastened to the lock at either side.

In packing for a large family it is a good plan to keep the linen separate by putting a towel between the layers of linen, letting each layer consist only of the clothes of one person, so that on unpacking, the towel containing the linen of each individual is simply lifted out, without the trouble of looking at the marks.

When the party sleep several nights on the road, it is advisable to have a large carpet bag containing the night-dress of each individual packed up in night-gown bags, dressing tidies (see plate 24), marked with the initials of the person; by this means much trouble is saved.

It is a good plan to sew a camphor bag to the night-gown to prevent the attack of fleas and bugs.

In packing, observe the following general rules:—

First, divide the light things from the heavy ones; lay drawings, portfolios, books, desks, boxes, shoes, and all hard flat things at the bottom of your trunk, taking great care to fit them together, so as to be perfectly even at the top, putting paper, or any small soft things in the crevices; then put in a packing cloth, and on this lay flannels, linen, &c., &c.: these things should be opened to their full extent, and laid quite flat; in the corners, stockings, rolls of ribbon, &c., may be put; silk or any thick dresses, folded as described above, may be laid at the top, and the whole carefully covered with the packing sheet tightly pinned down, and strong brown paper to prevent the possibility of rain getting in.

Bonnets, caps, muslin, or gauze dresses, and collars, should be put in a box by themselves: tapes may be nailed across the box and the bonnets or caps pinned to them to keep them steady.

In packing a carpet bag, it is well to roll every thing _possible_ in small compact parcels, and to put them in, very close together, especially at the corners and ends, keeping the bag as flat as it can be, and stretched out to its full extent, width-wise at the same time.

CARE OF THE GENTLEMAN’S WARDROBE.

Above all things in a gentleman’s wardrobe, it is necessary that the linen should be kept perfectly separate from the cloth clothes, because the dark colour of coats, &c. comes off slightly, and would soil the linen.

The following is the best method of folding a coat for travelling, or for putting away in a wardrobe, where there is not much room:—

Lay the coat at its full length upon a table, with the collar towards the left hand; pull out the collar, so as to make it lie quite straight; turn up the coat towards the collar, letting the crease be just at the elbow; let the lapel or breast on one side, be turned smoothly back on the arm and sleeves. Turn the skirt over the lapel, so that the end of the skirt will reach to the collar, and the crease or folding will be just where the skirts part at the bottom of the waist; when you have done one side, do the same with the other. Turn the collar towards the right hand, fold one skirt over the other, observing to let the fold be in the middle of the collar.

It is advisable to have about a yard and a half of brown Holland in which to wrap the coat, trowsers, and waistcoat; this will keep them clean and free from dust.

If a coat is new, sponge it the way the nap lies; a silk handkerchief is a good thing to wipe cloth with, when spotted with drops of wet.

When a hat gets wet, it should be gently brushed till dry, so as not to crack the felt.

Boot-stands should always be made so that the legs of the boots hang downwards.

When boots are packed up, they should always be put into cases (see Plate 24), which cases should be marked in pairs.

An exact inventory should be kept, and pasted on one of the doors of the wardrobe.

MOURNING.

It shows the best taste to make mourning as plain and as little fanciful as possible.

The deepest mourning is bombazine trimmed with crape; and entirely crape, or silk and crape bonnet.

The next is black silk trimmed with crape: silk and crape bonnet. There is a peculiar kind of very rich silk worn only by widows, and called “Widow’s silk.”

A third or slighter mourning, is a plain silk dress, with either black or white silk, or even a straw bonnet.

Half-mourning is grey or lavender silk in a morning, and the same or white with black ornaments in an evening: bonnet either white or lavender silk, or straw.

Bombazine and black silk dresses have broad hems at the bottom, or are turned up with crape from five to eight nails deep; this is cut the cross-way, and is put on with a crape piping at the top. The crape should be put on double, or if economy is an object, should be lined with black book-muslin, which makes it wear much better, than it would do if put on single.

The cape or collar of the dress should be either of silk covered with crape, or of plain silk, edged with hemmed or gaufiered crape, and the cuffs to suit.

In very deep mourning, the collar and cuffs are made of white muslin, covered with crape.

Frills and caps, either for the bonnet or to wear in the morning, should have the borders of white crape lisse, tulle, or net, with broad hems.

The peculiar kind of ribbon worn in mourning is called love ribbon, and may be had either white or black; it is very plain gauze ribbon, without any pattern on it but stripes.

Young persons, or those who are in mourning for young persons, frequently wear a good deal of white, as for instance, white ribbons, handkerchiefs, and white gloves sewed with black: very young children, only wear white frocks and black ribbons.

For caps, collars, veils, see under their respective heads.

It is the wisest economy in the end to buy the best or jet black crape, it is more highly curled or craped than the blue-black, which makes it more expensive, but it wears well to the last, whereas the other, even when new, does not look handsome.

The following observations may be found useful in some cases, though they should be received with allowance, according to the circumstances in which the individuals are placed.

Mourning is worn for a husband or wife, from one to two years.

For a parent, six months or a year.

For children, if above ten years old, from six months to a year; below that age, from three to six months; for an infant, six weeks and upwards.

For brothers and sisters, six to eight months.

For uncles and aunts, three to six months.

For cousins, or uncles and aunts, related by marriage, from six weeks to three months.

For more distant relations or friends, from three weeks upwards.

It is usual for persons of large fortune to put their servants in mourning on the following occasions:—

At the death of the heads of the family, their parents or children, the deepest mourning is given, as follows:—

For women servants, one stuff or bombazine gown for best, and two black print or working gowns, a bonnet made of silk and trimmed with crape, muslin for collars and caps, a black silk handkerchief, black stockings and gloves.

For men servants, a complete suit of dress and common livery, with hat-bands and shoulder-knots, gloves and stockings.

For the brothers and sisters of the master and mistress of the family, the mourning is slighter, consisting of one best and one common gown, and no crape on the bonnet: collar, caps, handkerchief, stockings and gloves, as above.

In less affluent families, of course, a difference is made, as it is a great expense to put a whole establishment into mourning, and frequently only one suit is given.

For infants or very young children, the nurse or immediate attendant alone receives mourning.

Hat-bands, scarfs, and gloves, are given to those who attend a funeral, including servants; and also, in some counties, are sent, as well as cake and gloves, to the intimate acquaintance and friends.

HAT-BANDS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 36.

Are worn of black or white silk by all those who attend a funeral; the latter only, if the deceased is a young girl. They are made of the whole width of the silk, and two yards and a quarter long; they are laid in plaits, and then doubled in half the length, and tied together with ribbon, so as to fit the hat, leaving long ends: these silk are replaced by crape during the rest of the mourning. Crape hat-bands are generally put on the best, at the mercer’s shop: they are the whole width of the crape, which goes round the hat, and are sometimes put on plainly, and sometimes folded in several folds. When made up, a hat-band is from one nail and a half to three nails deep, according to the relationship of the person to the deceased.

Scarfs are made the whole width of the silk, and three yards long, tied under the arm with a piece of narrow love ribbon. A scarf is worn over the right shoulder, so that the bow comes below the left arm. Plate 20, Fig. 37.

Military men merely wear a piece of crape, two or three nails deep, folded round the left arm, below the elbow.

HOODS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 38.

The hood which is worn by female mourners at a funeral, is composed of black or white silk, book-muslin, or cambric; it is the whole width of the silk, and is three yards long; it is made as follows:—

Double the silk in half, making three folds in the front or part near the face, all the way down; the back is plaited or gathered up, and the two sides sewed together for half a yard from the top, so as to form a kind of cap with long lappets; a bow is put on at the gathered part, another in the middle in front, and a third on one side near the ear. These hoods are made in pairs, because those who wear them walk two and two; that is, the bow above the ear is put on the right side of one, and the left side of the other.

A SHROUD,

PLATE 20. FIG. 39,

Is composed of a peculiar kind of flannel, woven on purpose, and called shrouding flannel; it is made of a breadth and a half, full length, so as to cover the feet; one seam is sewed up, leaving the other open behind, like a pinafore; slits are cut for arm-holes, and plain long sleeves, without gussets set in; the front is gathered at the waist, and drawn up into a narrow piece; this is twice repeated, at intervals of three nails down the skirt, upon each of these gatherings, round the neck and at the wrists, a kind of border of the same flannel, punched at the edge in a pattern, is plaited, and an edging of the same is made at the bottom.

For men, the shroud is made exactly the same as the above for women, excepting that there is no gathering in the front.

CAP.

If the usual cap is not put on, the following is made for a man:—it is of flannel, cut exactly like an infant’s foundling cap (see Fig. 40). A quilling of the punched flannel is put round the face, and a band of it laid on behind, and across the top of the head, strings of the same, are also sewed on.

CAP FOR A WOMAN.

This is of flannel, cut in the shape of Fig. 41: the round part is plaited up to form the front, and a quilling of the bordering put on, a band of the same laid on at the back, and strings (see Fig. 42).

DAY CAPS.

PLATE 15.

Caps are made of worked muslin, lace, tulle, or blonde, and are usually formed upon chip or wire ribbon, either silk or cotton, which gives a firmness, and causes the cap to set better to the head. A few of the simplest shapes are given in the Plate, and a separate description of each is annexed; in the mean while, a few words on the general manner of making up caps, equally applicable to all, may be found useful by the inexperienced.

After collecting your materials, and spreading a clean cloth upon the table, begin to make your cap, by sewing wire ribbon on such parts as require it, generally all round the head-piece; the crown is then put in; if a round one, it may be either gathered or plaited—the latter looks the best; the fulness is usually put quite in the front, letting the part at the side of the face be plain: horse-shoe crowns are sometimes fulled a little at the top. The joinings of caps are covered or concealed by a narrow piping or rouleau of satin.

When you buy stiff satin ribbon, before trimming your cap, pull it obliquely across all the length, first one way and then the other, to take out the dressing.

Bonnet or other caps, made of a washing material, should have white lambs’ wool run in the string cases, when they are sent to the laundress, it does not take the starch so much as the net itself, and thus the ribbons are easily run in again, on drawing the lambs’ wool out.

[Illustration: PLATE 15

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 29

Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 30

Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 31 Fig 32

Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 33 Fig 34

Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 35 Fig 36

Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 37 Fig 38

Fig 39]

CAP FOR A YOUNG LADY.

PLATE 15. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a pretty simple cap for a young lady or invalid, as it is not liable to be crushed by lying on a sofa.

Take a piece of paper, four nails and a quarter long, and five nails and a quarter wide, curve out nearly half a nail from the top, A, to within half a nail of the bottom, E, to form the part that is to set round the face; from the corner, J to F, is two nails and a half, cut in a straight line from E to F, and from F to H, in a slanting direction, the point H being one nail and a half from the bottom, and one nail and a quarter from the side; cut into the cap from H to C, also sloping a quarter of a nail, and then round it gradually up to B. When you cut out your cap, be careful that the net is doubled at D.

In making up this cap, join it neatly from F to H, and then gather the crown, B C, into the small piece, H C. Hem it from E to F, and run a coloured ribbon into the string-case: hem or bind it in the front, and make one broad runner, to contain a ribbon, which sets it off. A small bow may be put at H: and any simple trimming of loops or bows between the borders.

A MORNING CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 3, 4, 5.

This is easily made, takes very little material, and has a pretty effect. The head-piece is cut all in one.

For the pattern, take a piece of paper four nails long by three nails and a half broad. The front, A B, is four nails; from B to C two nails and a half. Curve from C to E, E being two nails from the top. Cut in a straight line from E to F, at a quarter of a nail from the bottom, and curve from F to A. The net must be doubled at D. The small circular crown is one nail and a half across.

This cap is made up as follows:—Wire the head-piece all round, and put a wire also from B to C, up the front, and from E to F, up the back, to keep it in shape. The round crown is put in quite plainly, the part into which it fits having been previously wired. The border may then be sewed on, and a double quilling of blonde or tulle put round the crown at the top. Lay a piece of ribbon in the middle of the quilling, and cover the wires up the back and front; bind it with the same behind, and put a ribbon, which forms the strings, across the border in front. A bow at the side, and two behind, at the top and bottom, will be found sufficient trimming.

A SIMPLE UNDRESS, OR BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 6, 7, 8.

This cap is in two parts, a head-piece and a horse-shoe. To cut the pattern of the former, Fig. 6, let your paper be four nails broad by four nails and three-quarters long. A to B is the front of the cap. Curve it slightly about a quarter of a nail to B, which is a quarter of a nail from the bottom; then curve to E one nail from the side, and from C to E is a gradual slope, D being the doubled part. For the horse-shoe, let your paper be three nails broad by four nails long. F and K are each half a nail from the side. Slope from F to I, which is two nails and a half from the bottom, and then round to H, which is in the centre.

In making up, hem or bind the front, and put one or more runners, according to fancy. The size here given is only measured for one. Whip from E to C, and sew it to the horse-shoe, keeping the fulness at the top of the cap. Hem or bind it behind, and put on the border.

DRESS MORNING CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 9, 10, 11.

This cap is in two parts. For half the front-piece, Fig. 9, cut a piece of paper five nails and a quarter long and two nails wide. D is the doubled part of the net, cut in a straight line from A to B, which is half a nail from the side. Slope from B to C, which is one nail and a half from the bottom.

For half the crown, cut a piece four nails and three-quarters long and two nails and a half wide. Slope off from the top, A to B, cutting off half a nail. D is the doubled, or middle part of the crown.

In making up, the head-piece is wired all round, and the crown then set in quite plainly for two nails above the ear, and the rest plaited in small neat plaits quite in the front: then take two pieces of wire, rather shorter than the front of the cap, and quill upon them tulle, blonde, or lace, similar to that of which the border is made. This quilling should be narrower than the border, and only moderately full. A ribbon must be laid upon the edge to conceal the stitches and the wire. When these bands are put upon the cap, one of them is laid on close to the crown, and the other between it and the front. The cap is plaited a little behind to make it fit, and a small bow is put on in the middle of the back. A ribbon, forming also the strings, is passed over the front, and a small bow put on one side, close to the border.

In making up this cap more simply, or as a bonnet cap, the two trimmed bands may be omitted, and a satin or gauze ribbon merely put across the crown and in front, with two or three loops between the borders.

PLAIN CAP FOR AN ELDERLY LADY.

PLATE 15. FIG. 12, 13.

Cut your pattern four nails wide by seven nails long. Slope off at the top from A to B, D being the back or doubled part of the cap, and hollow it a little at the bottom.

In making up, run two string cases, to admit ribbon in the front, hem it behind and pass a ribbon through, sew on the border, put a small bow at one side, close to the front, and with strings it is complete.

CAP FOR A YOUNG MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.

PLATE 15. FIG. 14, 15.

This cap is in two pieces. For the pattern of the head-piece, let your paper be five nails and a half long, and three nails and a quarter wide. A B is the front of the cap. From B to D is one nail and three-quarters, and is the top or doubled part of it. Curve from D to E, the point, E, being three nails and a half from the top. F is three-quarters of a nail from the side and half a nail from the bottom. Cut in a straight line from E to F, and curve from F to A.

For the crown, cut a circle of six nails across.

In making up, join the head-piece behind, and hem it all round with a narrow hem, so as only to admit a bobbin, which draws it to the proper size. The front is quite plain for one nail and a half above the ear, on each side, and then drawn equally in the middle. The crown is gathered regularly all round, and set in. The single border, about one nail broad, is of the same material as the cap. A narrow hem is made at the edge, and it is set on rather scantily. White ribbon strings are sewed on at the ears.

CAP FOR AN ELDERLY MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.

PLATE 15. FIG. 16, 17, 18.

This cap is also in two pieces. The paper pattern should be six nails and a quarter long and two nails wide. Slope from A to B, B being three-quarters of a nail from the corner. Slope again from B to C, cutting off half a nail.

For the crown, D, which is the doubled part, is five nails and a half long. E, or the bottom of the cap, is three nails wide. Round off the corner at the top, F.

The front border of this cap is in one with the head-piece. The first thing to be done in making it up, is to join a piece of the same material, six nails long, and double the width of the border, say one nail and a half, to the corner or ear of the cap. This is neatly hemmed on both sides, together with the front edge of the head-piece, which is to form the border. A frill the same breadth is sewed to each end of the head-piece, and is joined to the long chin-pieces at one end, and at the other end to the lower part of the crown, which is to be the border behind. A narrow string-case is made in front, one nail and a half from the edge, and a bobbin run in along the front to the ends of the chin-piece. A similar string-case is also made at the lower part of the crown, and two bobbins run in, fastened at one end, and brought out at the opposite one, so that when drawn up they make the cap set to the head. The crown is set in equally full along the head-piece, the straight part being behind.

A BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 19, 20.

This cap is in one piece. Let your paper be four nails wide by three nails and a half long. The front, A B, is a little hollowed, say a quarter of a nail. D is the doubled part. E is two nails and a half from the top, and a quarter of a nail from the side. Slope from F to E, and from E to C, which is one nail and a half from the side, and a quarter of a nail from the bottom. Curve a little to B.

In making up, hem it in the front, and make three or four runners to admit a coloured ribbon, the number and breadth of these depending on fancy. They must be allowed for in cutting out, as the pattern here given is not measured for any at all. Join it from E to C, either plainly or with a piece of insertion-lace, and at the back, C B, make another string-case. The upper part, from F to E, is gathered and drawn together, and a bow put on to conceal the gathering.

A BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 21, 22.

The pattern of this cap is a square of three nails and a half. D is the doubled part at the back. It is slightly hollowed, as in the Plate.

In making up, hem the front, A F, and the back, F E; join it up neatly from A to B, either with a piece of insertion-lace, with a satin rouleau, or with a ribbon, and gather the rest, B C, up to the point, B, where a bow of ribbon finishes it. Sometimes, as in the Plate, the border is not carried on in the front, but, leaving about one nail from the top of the cap, is earned back again to the ear, forming a second frilling.

HELMET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 23, 24.

This is a remarkably pretty little morning or bonnet cap, and is generally made of tulle or lisse, as the shape is not so suitable to a washing material. It is in three parts, the two sides and a piece let in between them.

To cut the pattern of the sides, Fig. 23, let your paper be four nails long by two nails and three-quarters broad. A B is the front, which is a little sloped.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From B to C | 2¼ | | From C to the bottom | ⅝ | | From E to the bottom | 2½ | | From F to the top | 1 | | From G to the corner | ¾ | +----------------------+--------+

Curve from B to C. Slope upwards from C to E, and round from F to G.

The piece let in between these two sides is about three-quarters of a yard long, two nails broad in the front, and one nail and a quarter behind, gradually sloped.

In making up, the long narrow strip is gathered on both sides and sewed to the other pieces, Fig. 23, at A, G, F, E, C, equally full all the way. The stitches are concealed by a small satin rouleau laid on. The front and back are then wired and bound with ribbon. The border and any simple trimming complete it.

BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 25, 26.

To cut the pattern of half this neat and simple bonnet cap, let your paper be six nails long and four nails broad. A B is the front. Curve from B, past C to E, C being one nail and three-quarters from the bottom and half a nail from the side, and E being two nails and a half from the top. D is the part where the net is to be doubled.

In making up, plait it behind in the centre, or rather large folds, seven on each side of the middle, and wrapping the folds over each other, so as to keep them all quite behind. Ribbon is laid on in two or three rows in front, either simply upon the cap, or covered with net. Bind it behind, and put on a border and some light trimming.

HANDKERCHIEF BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 27, 28.

This cap is formed of a half-handkerchief, cut from a square of six nails and a half. D is the doubled part. The front is from A to B. Shape it a little, beginning about three nails from the top, to make it set better to the face. The extreme point, C, is rounded off.

In making up, hem it all round, and run in a tape or ribbon behind.

BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 29, 30.

The pattern of half this cap is cut from a paper five nails long by four nails broad. A B is the front, D the doubled part of the net. Slope from B to C, cutting off one nail and a half. Allow for runners, according to your taste.

In making up, hem the front and back, run the string-case, join it up the back from C to F, and hem the rest from F to the top. Run a ribbon in this hem, which draws it up into a crown, and ties with a bow behind at F. This cap looks very like Fig. 20, but the chief advantage of it is, that it can be very easily ironed, as, when the ribbon is drawn out of the crown, it is a flat piece.

BONNET CAP FOR A CHILD.

PLATE 15. FIG. 31, 32.

This is an oblong, six nails long by four nails wide. Hem it all round. A E is the front. A ribbon is run through the hems, both in front and at the back, B C, which draws up the cap as much as is necessary to make it fit.

A CAPETTE.

PLATE 15. FIG. 33.

A capette is a sort of half-cap worn by young ladies, as a preservation from cold; it is also useful as a pretty kind of evening head dress; they are not expensive and are easily made.

Take a piece of silk or satin ribbon, the proper length for the front of a cap, and about two-thirds of a nail broad, along each edge hem in a wire ribbon so as to reduce the width to half a nail, putting three ribs or stays of wire across, to keep the ribbon its full breadth; one should be in the middle, and one at each end: then take another piece of wire ribbon, which is to go at the back of the head, and which is covered with ribbon similar to the front; the length of this must be regulated by the size of the wearer’s head, and it should be very accurately fitted, as all the comfort, and much of the neat appearance of the capette depends upon it setting well and closely to the shape of the head; this back-piece should be sewed very firmly to the front, a little above the ears. A border of net, tulle, or blonde is then plaited on to the front, and a gauze or satin ribbon folded, and laid upon the edge of it, so as to cover the stitches, and the foundation; this ribbon is long enough to form strings. On the back-strap is also laid a similar piece of ribbon, and sometimes a small bow is put in the centre of it. The front is trimmed according to fancy, the most simple mode generally looking the best.

Some persons wear capettes under their bonnets, and then they are usually made without wire, and merely bound with ribbon.

LAPPETS.

PLATE 15. FIG. 34.

Lappets are merely a double border of net, tulle, or blonde, three nails on each side, leaving a space in the middle; sometimes they are plaited all round, or made with a plain piece of blonde over the forehead. The edge is bound with ribbon, the ends of which form the strings.

WIDOW’S CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 35, 36, 37.

A widow’s cap is a very difficult thing to make well, and looks particularly slovenly when ill put together; it is, therefore, often the best economy to buy one ready-made, as there are persons who do little or nothing else; however, as there may be some cases in which this plan is not advisable, a pattern is given of a full sized one, and a few words on the manner of making it up.

These caps should be of book-muslin (not of the thinnest kind) or of white crape.

In the Plate, half of the crown, Fig. 35, and half of the head-piece, Fig. 36, are represented. To cut out the former, let your paper be seven nails and a half long, and three nails and a half wide; from the side to A is two nails and three-quarters, from the bottom to B is three nails and three-quarters, and from the corner to C, two nails and a half. The doubled part of the muslin is to be laid upon D.

For the head-piece, Fig. 36, your paper must be three nails and three-quarters long, by one nail and a quarter broad. From A to the corner is three-quarters of a nail, slope gradually to B. D is the doubled part.

In making up, after setting the crown into the head-piece, with the fulness chiefly in the front, and hemming it behind and all round the face, sew on the borders: these are made of the same muslin, about a quarter of a nail deep, they are double in front, and put on very full: after the muslin is hemmed, a short round stick is run through, which gives a crimped appearance, and makes the hem hollow; to keep the border in its place, a fine tape is passed through each hem, which is tied up to the proper size; a sort of binder is then laid upon the head-piece and meets behind; it is thus made:—take a piece of muslin, one nail and a half broad and two yards long, make a hem at each edge and a tuck in the middle, the same width as the hem of the borders, pass the stick through all these hems, and run in a fine tape or bobbin, to draw it up to the proper size. A piece is then prepared to fasten under the chin which is three-quarters of a yard long, and broad enough to admit of a hem, one quarter of a nail deep at each edge, no plain muslin being left between; the stick is passed through these hems, and a tape run in. When worn, the ends are pinned on each side at the ears of the cap.

VELVET OR WADDED SILK CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 38.

This cap is very useful to wear under a bonnet, especially in travelling. It is four nails long in the front, when folded in two, and three nails and a half wide, it is sloped behind one nail, and rounded about half a nail at the top.

In making up, a lining is put into it, and a piece of wadding laid between it and the cap: they are neatly run together down the front and behind: a string-case is made at the back, for about half a nail on each side of the middle, and a ribbon run in to draw it up to the proper size. It is neatly joined for one nail and a half, and the rest is gathered up, the stitches being concealed by a large button, covered with the same silk.

SILK CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 39.

These are often worn by elderly or invalid ladies, under their caps and bonnets. Fig. 39 is an approved shape, to wear under a cap; it is made of silk that approaches the nearest in colour to the shade of the hair. It is in two pieces, the one a strip ten nails long, three nails deep, and sloped off at the ends to two nails; and the other a round cushion, one nail and a half across, and half a nail high: the strip is joined up at the ends, which part fits to the front of the head, hemmed all round, and strings run in to draw it up to the proper size. The cushion is made and filled with light sheep’s wool, and the strip or head-piece gathered regularly to it. The use of it is to make the crown of the cap stand up.

PINAFORES, SACCARINES, &c.

PLATE 16.

Pinafores and saccarines are worn chiefly by children of both sexes, and of every age, also by house-maids, while making beds, or persons engaged in particularly dusty or dirty employments. For children’s pinafores during their earliest years, look in Plate 3, where two or three patterns are entered, among other articles of baby linen, and where scales are affixed for children of various ages. The following are the other shapes most in use.

CHILD’S SURTOUT PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 1.

This is a neat and simple pinafore for a young child, and is made of diaper, Holland or print.

[Illustration: PLATE 16

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 5 Fig 7 Fig 4

Fig 6 Fig 10

Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 14

Fig 11 Fig 13

Fig 12 Fig 15 Fig 16]

SCALE.

+-------------------------------+----------+----------+ | ———————— | Child of | Child of | | | 1 yr. | 3 yrs. | +-------------------------------+----------+----------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | | Width of cloth | 12 | 14 | | Length of cloth | 6 | 8 | | Depth of shoulder | 1 | 1¼ | | Slope of shoulder | ½ | ½ | | Length of arm-hole | 2½ | 2½ | | Depth of lappet or shoulder | 1 | 1¼ | | Length of lappet or shoulder | 8 | 10 | | Depth of neck-band when open | ¾ | 1 | | Length of neck-band when open | 5 | 6 | | Depth of band round the waist | 1 | 1 | +-------------------------------+----------+----------+

The pinafore is folded in half, and again in two, to find the situation of the arm-holes at the quarters: after sloping the shoulders, hollow out the neck about a quarter of a nail; the shoulders must then be sewed up, and the pinafore set into the neck-band, which is first doubled exactly in half; this neck-band buttons behind. The sleeve lappets are gathered near the edge, and neatly set on to the arm-hole before it is hemmed, so that when the hem is turned down, no stitches are seen on the right side; the lappet is then fulled at the edge a second time, which being also firmly sewed down, makes it lie flat upon the hem. The other edge of the lappet is hemmed, and silk washing braid put on, to hide the stitches. The lappet should be set on to within half a nail of the bottom of the slit of the arm-hole on each side; little gussets may be put in at the bottom of the slit, to make it stronger. A band is sewed on in front, of the proper length to button behind, its proper situation is in the centre in front, and a little below the level of the bottom of the arm-hole. Boys often wear a band of patent leather instead, with a buckle. This pinafore is quite open behind, being only fastened by the neck-button and the band.

A CHILD’S SMOCK-FROCK, OR CLOSE PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 2, 3.

If for gentlemen’s children, they are made of Holland, either black or brown, or diaper, but for the lower classes, of blue check, dark blue linen, brown and black linen, or coloured prints. These close pinafores are very suitable for children playing in a garden, or for going to school in, and preserve clean frocks, or hide soiled ones effectually. It would be well if at most large charity schools, children attended with these kind of pinafores, which at once give them a neat respectable appearance.

The number of breadths is not mentioned in the scale, as the widths of the material differ so much; but it is advisable, if possible, to obtain it of such a width as will agree with the width of the pinafore, to admit of their being but one, one and a half, or exactly two breadths in it. The sleeves, collar, bands, and gussets, may be made to cut to little or no waste, by fitting them well, one with another, especially if the band be made in two pieces, instead of one length. The pinafore is easily made up; after putting in the neck gussets, the collar is set on, the skirt being regularly fulled into it. The sleeves, &c., are all put on as in a shirt, excepting that the wristbands are sewed up so as to form cuffs.

Metal or bone buttons are those in general use to fasten them. The two nails by one and a half that are over (see K), serve for covering buttons, or make a small gusset for the slit behind, and also for the bottom of the sleeves, if the wristband is made open.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ | | First | Second | Third | | | size. | size. | size. | +-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | | Width of skirt when sewed up | 9 | 10 | 12 | | Length of skirt | 9 | 11 | 13 | | Length of shoulder | 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ | | Slope of shoulder to | ¼ | ⅓ | ½ | | Length of arm-hole | 2½ | 3 | 3½ | | Size of neck-gusset | 1 | 1½ | 1¾ | | Size of sleeve-gusset | 2 | 2¼ | 2½ | | Length of collar | 6 | 6½ | 7 | | Depth of collar before doubled | 1 | 2 | 2 | | Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3½ | 4 | | Length of sleeve down the selvage | 4½ | 5¼ | 6 | | Width of sleeve | 4 | 5½ | 6½ | | Depth of wristband | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | | Length of wristband down selvage | 3 | 3½ | 3¾ | | Depth of band | 1 | 1½ | 1½ | | Length of band down selvage | 11 | 12 | 13 | +-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+

LARGE SIZED PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 4.

To prevent waste, it would be advisable to cut out two at once, as the collars, &c., will cut for both pinafores in one width. Cut two breadths for each pinafore, and from one breadth of each, cut the sleeves. For the collars, &c., cut off a piece of Holland, seven nails long, and divide it according to the Figure in the Plate, first taking off the two collars, C C, the whole length selvage-wise, and each two nails wide; next, the four wristbands, W W, of which two cut in the length, of three and a half nails long, and three nails wide; afterwards the four gussets, G G, two and a half nails square, leaving a strip, two nails long, and five nails wide, out of which cut the two neck-gussets, each two nails square, to be afterwards cut crosswise in half; also little gussets for the slit behind, and the sleeves, if the wristbands are made open.

These pinafores are made up like those before mentioned.

PINAFORES FOR BOYS, OF STRONG BLACK GLAZED CALICO, OR HOLLAND, AT 1s. PER YARD.

PLATE 16. FIG. 2, 3,

Represents the width of the cloth on which the pieces composing the pinafore of the smallest size are marked.

Cut two breadths and divide one in half, from the half cut all the et cetera according to the figure.

S S are the two sleeves, five and a half nails square. C is the collar, two nails by six long. W W are the two wristbands, two nails by three long. G G are the two sleeve-gussets, two nails square. N N are the two neck-gussets, one nail square.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+ | | Boy of | Boy of | | ———————— | 8 years. | 10 years. | +-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+ | | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. | | Width of material | 15 | 15 | | Quantity for one | 1 10 | 2 0 | | Number of breadths in each pinafore | 2 bdths.| 2 bdths. | | Length of breadths | 13 | 15 | | Length of sleeve down selvage | 5½ | 7 | | Width of sleeve | 5½ | 6 | | Length of wristband down selvage | 3 | 3½ | | Width of wristband | 2 | 2 | | Neck-gusset cut in half | 1 | 1½ | | Sleeve-gusset | 2 | 3 | | Length of collar | 6 | 7 | | Width of collar | 2 | 2 | +-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+

CHILDREN’S SACCARINES.

PLATE 16. FIG. 7.

These are exceedingly pretty, if finished neatly with braid or silk, and are generally made of Holland, either brown, or the light grey called French Holland. They answer well as morning dresses, in which children can run about, and work in the garden, with less danger of tearing or dirtying their under clothes, than with frocks of lighter materials.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+ | | Child from | Child from | | ———————— | 2 to 4 yrs. | 4 to 6 yrs. | +--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+ | | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. | | Quantity for one | 1 14 | 2 2½ | | Width of material | 12 | 14 | | Number of breadths | 2 bdths. | 2 bdths. | | Length of skirt | 9 | 11 | | Length of shoulder | 1½ | 1½ | | Slope of shoulder | ½ | ½ | | Length of arm-hole | 2¾ | 3 | | Length of slit behind | 4 | 4½ | | Length of sleeve down the selvage | 6 | 6½ | | Width of sleeve | 6 | 6 | | Length of collar down the selvage | 6 | 6 | | Width of collar | 1 | 1 | | Length of shoulder-strap | 1½ | 1¾ | | Width of shoulder-strap | ½ | ¾ | | Sleeve-gussets | 2 | 3 | | Neck-gussets | ¾ | ¾ | | Length of wristband down the selvage | 2½ | 3 | | Width of wristband | 1 | 1½ | | Length of band down the selvage | 11 | 12 | | Depth of band | 1 | 1 | +--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+

In making up these saccarines, the work must be very good and strong. The hem at the bottom should be about one nail and a half deep. The shoulder-straps and neck-gussets being put on, the slit hemmed, and everything ready for biassing the pinafore, prepare some strong netting silk of a colour that will wash well—black, purple, or white are the best—and then bias the front and back in four rows below the collar. Small spots worked on the gathers, between the rows of biassing, in the same coloured silk, have a finished and neat effect. The sleeve is also biassed at about a quarter of a nail below the shoulder, and at the wrist. For a description of biassing, see Part I., Chapter I. Some persons put coloured worsted braid over the biassing, and, if chosen of a colour that washes well, and sewed on with crewel, it looks pretty, and stands washing better than most kinds of netting silk. Little pockets of Holland should be put in front, being particularly useful to children for their handkerchiefs, &c. The wristbands, collar, and band should have some little ornamental work, either in silk or braid, to correspond with the rest.

FIG. 5

Represents the width of the Holland on which the pieces are marked for the largest saccarine, supposing two of them cut out together, which is by far the most economical way.

After cutting out the skirts, mark off and cut in one piece the two breadths for the two pairs of sleeves, and, before dividing the breadths, cut selvage-wise the whole length a strip two nails wide, which will be twelve long, and form one of the bands. The two sleeves exactly fit in the remainder of the width. Cut next another breadth of the cloth of six nails long, and from it take, according to the Plate:—

Two collars, C C, the whole length, and one nail wide each. Four wristbands, W W, two in the length, and one nail wide each. Four gussets, G G, three nails square, two in the length. Two half bands, B B, to be sewed together to make one, each one nail wide, and the whole length. (The other band is already cut off.) Two neck-gussets, N N, of two nails square, to be afterwards cut crosswise to form the pair. Four shoulder-straps, S S S S, of half a nail wide and one nail and three-quarters long, and one piece over, which will form a slit-gusset.

FIG. 6

Represents the smaller saccarine on cloth of the proper width. In this case, also, it is necessary to cut two at once, to prevent waste.

After cutting the two skirts and two pairs of sleeves, of which two sleeves exactly fit in the width, cut off a breadth six nails down the selvage, and divide it as follows, according to the Plate:—

Two collars, C C, one nail wide each, and the whole depth. Four half bands, B B B B, one nail wide each, of the whole length of two nails and a half, leaving one nail over. Four sleeve-gussets, G G G G, of two nails square, underneath which lie Four shoulder-straps, S S, of three-quarters of a nail wide and one nail and a half long, and two other gussets. A strip of Holland, half a nail by three nails, remains to bind round the slit behind, which makes it firm and durable.

HOUSEMAID’S PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 8.

House-maids have, or ought to have, a calico pinafore to put on when making beds, as, after cleaning grates and emptying slops, their clothes should not come in contact with clean bed-linen and counterpanes, lest they should soil them.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------+-------------+ | | Yds. nls. | | Quantity for one | 3 5½ | | Number of breadths | 2 bdths. | | Width of calico | 1 0 | | Length of pinafore | 1¼ 0 | | Length of shoulder | 2½ | | Shoulder sloped to | ½ | | Length of arm-hole | 5½ | | Length of sleeve down selvage | 9½ | | Width of sleeve | 9 | | Size of sleeve-gusset | 4 | +-------------------------------+--------------+

The sleeves should be left large and loose, so as to admit of the pinafore being easily put on and off, over the gown. It is more economical to cut out two pinafores than one, as otherwise two gussets are wasted.

SCHOOL GIRL’S PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 9.

Pinafores for the national and other schools are generally made of strong blue linen check, with one or two pockets at the front and sides, in which their knitting and needle-work are put. These pinafores, after buttoning up the pockets, are carefully taken off when school hours are over, folded, and locked up at the school-house. In front, near the top of the pinafore, is sewed a square patch of the linen, on which is marked, in red or other tape, the number of the child to whom it belongs. The child is generally called by her companions by the number of the pinafore, instead of being addressed by her name, which is, in many ways, a great saving of memory, time, and trouble.

SCALE.

+------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+ | |Girl from|Girl from|Girl from |Girl from | | ———————— | 6 to 8 | 8 to 10 | 10 to 13 | 13 to 18 | | | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. | +------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+ | | Nails. | Nails.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| |Width of material | 12 | 14 | 1 0 | 1 0 | |Length of pinafore| 10 | 12 | 14 | 1 0 | |Piece for shoulder| 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 | |Sloped to | ½ | ½ | ¾ | 1 | |Slit for arm-hole | 2¾ | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Hollowed in front | ¼ | ¼ | ½ | ½ | |Length of pocket | 3¾ | 3¾ | 4 | 4 | |Width of pocket | 4 | 4 | 4½ | 4½ | +------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+

A CHILD’S PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 10.

This is made of brown Holland, or any other neat material, and trimmed with braid or an edging, or simply piped, to give a sort of finish to it. Take two breadths of the proper length (say twelve nails), and sew them together up the seams, leaving two nails and a half from the top for the arm-holes. When thus sewed, fold the skirt in half the width, and hollow out the arm-holes, cutting into the cloth, from A to B, half a nail. The neck is also hollowed to about one nail, from C to D, leaving one nail and a quarter for the shoulders, which are not sewed up, but neatly hemmed and made to button together.

There is no slit behind, but the back is made exactly like the front, either with large plaits, as in the figure, biassed, or gathered. A band, sewed on in front, buttons round the waist. When the pinafore is taken off, the shoulders are merely unbuttoned, and it falls down, as seen on the right hand side of the figure. Lappets or frills may be added with advantage round the arm-holes, taking care to divide them at top, to allow of the shoulders separating.

A SURGEON’S DISSECTING PINAFORE.

PLATE 16. FIG. 11.

These pinafores are worn by surgeons over the coat, and are made high up to the neck and down to the waist, to prevent anything soiling the dress while dissecting and performing operations. The pinafores are generally of black, but sometimes of grey Holland. They have two pockets, in which to put the instruments, cloths, &c. &c.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+------------+ | | Yds. nls. | |Width of material | 1 0 | |Number of breadths | 1½ bdth. | |Length of pinafore | 1 6 | |Length of sleeve down the selvage | 10 | |Width of sleeve, or two in the breadth | 8 | |Length of collar down the selvage | 9 | |Width of collar | 2¼ | |Length of wristband down the selvage | 4 | |Width of wristband | 1 | |Length of shoulder-strap down the selvage | 4 | |Width of the two together before being cut | 2 | |Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | |Length of arm-hole | 5½ | |Size of square pocket | 5 | |Distance from under the arm to the pocket-hole | 3½ | |Slit width-way for the pocket-hole | 3 | +-----------------------------------------------+------------+

The breadth and half are sewed together, the pinafore doubled as usual, and the slits for the arms cut; after which the shoulder-straps are sewed between, and not upon the parts forming the shoulder, taking care to put the wide end of the shoulder-straps (which are sloped as seen below), towards the neck. Put in the sleeves, and set the neck into the collar. Find the situation of the pocket-hole, letting the middle of it fall in a straight line, exactly under the arm. The slit is cut width-way, and a piece of narrow tape is sewed round it at the edge, and hemmed down. The pocket is _sewed_ on (but not _hemmed_) at the inside with small stitches, and, when done, well flattened with the finger and thumb.

The piece for the shoulder-straps is crossed, making the narrow end about one-third of a nail, as in Fig. 12.

A strong case is sewed round the pinafore inside, made of 2_d._ or 3_d._ tape. Two large oylet-holes are made at the sides, and a very long piece of tape is first drawn all round the string-case coming out behind, and secured in front. These strings cross behind, and are carried through the opposite string-case, as far as the oylet-holes, at which they are brought out. The pinafore is generally put on over the head. The strings draw round and tie in front.

[Illustration: PLATE 17.

Fig 1 Fig 3 Fig 5 Fig 7

Fig 2 Fig 4 Fig 6 Fig 8

Fig 9 Fig 10

Fig 13 Fig 11 Fig 12]

WAGGONER’S SMOCK-FROCK.

PLATE 16. FIG. 13, 14, 15, 16.

It is made of strong linen, similar to that used for sheeting, and the biassing upon it is worked with the strongest glazed thread or cotton that can be procured. This work must be firmly and regularly done, as the price of these frocks depends on the quantity and quality of work in them.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------------+---------+ | |Yds. nls.| |Width of the material | 1 0 | |Length of the body, both breadths being cut in one piece| 2 14 | |Length of each half collar down the selvage | 6 | |Width of each half collar | 4 | |Length of shoulder-binding | 3 | |Width of shoulder-binding | 1¼ | |Length of sleeve down the selvage | 10 | |Width of sleeve | 8 | |Length of wristband down the selvage | 5½ | |Size of gusset | 1 | |Length of slit behind and before | 1¼ | |Length of worked part in front | 5 | |Wrist biassed up to about | 1¾ | +--------------------------------------------------------+---------+

The two breadths are cut in one piece, and hollowed out at the neck to the depth of one nail, making the hollowing, Fig. 13, from A to B, as abruptly as possible, so that from B to C is quite straight by a thread. After the body is gathered to the proper size, so as to correspond with the two half collars, set them on so that the divisions shall come behind and in front, at which places the frock itself is cut down one nail and a quarter deep.

The shoulders and wrists, as well as the front and back, are biassed with strong glazed thread, in various patterns, and stitched as in Fig. 16. The plain part, between the biassing and arm-hole, is worked in chain-stitch, as also the collar, in various patterns.

These frocks are to be met with at clothing warehouses, and cost from 9_s._ to 18_s._ each, the price depending upon the quantity and quality of work put on.

SHIRTS FOR THE LABOURING CLASSES.

PLATE 17.

Shirts for labouring men are generally made of the stout linen called shirting-linen, at from 9_d._ to 1_s._ per yard. Shirts for men of lighter occupations are sometimes of calico, with linen collars and wristbands. Blue checks, unbleached, and striped calicoes, or prints, are used for that purpose.

Linen for shirts should be chosen of exactly the proper width, according to the size wanted; and as it is an expensive article, especially when cut to waste, six Scales are drawn upon the Plate for six different sizes of shirts, by which the most economical plan for cutting the shirt is seen.

Each Scale is drawn upon the width of cloth suitable to the sized shirt. Scales are also affixed for cutting out a set of six of the same sized shirts, as, by a little management, and occasionally reducing or enlarging a sleeve a quarter of a nail, or making some such immaterial difference, the various parts of a set, take much less cloth by being cut together.

If shirts are made of linen, they should always be cut by a thread; but if they are of calico, they may be torn: still, however, the smaller parts, as gussets, straps, &c., should be cut, in preference to tearing, as they are apt to pull out of shape. In preparing a set of shirts, time is saved by cutting out all the pieces of the same size together, instead of cutting first a sleeve, then a wristband, &c. It also saves cloth to cut strips all in one length, and then sub-divide it: for instance, when binders and sleeves are cut in the breadth, as one is longer than the other, it is necessary to mark off the width of the sleeve, and then cut down the whole length of the set of sleeves, leaving the strip in one length, to be sub-divided afterwards. The bodies should be cut each in one piece, and not in two separate breadths. The neck-gussets are generally single, therefore, one gusset, cut crosswise in half, forms the pair.

Before cutting the bosom, slit, &c., of the body, observe that the shirt should be folded in two, so as to let the front breadth be one nail shorter than the back breadth. When thus folded, crease it by a thread, and, after leaving the proper distance for the shoulders, proceed to cut the slit for the neck, and down for the bosom. Next measure the length of opening for the flaps, and for the arm-holes, and put in pins as marks.

A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHIRTS.

There are nineteen useful parts to a shirt, which are cut out pretty nearly by the following rough proportions; but as the figures of men differ materially, no exact rule can be laid down.

1st The SKIRT or BODY, which is cut, with the two breadths in one piece, and should be long enough to reach from the shoulder to the knee of the wearer. 2nd and 3rd. The SLEEVES, which are generally about half the length of the skirt when sewed up, and the breadth the same. 4th The COLLAR, which is the same length as the sleeve. 5th and 6th. The WRISTBANDS, each of which is half the length of the collar. 7th and 8th. The BINDERS, the length of a sleeve and a quarter. 9th and 10th. The SHOULDER-STRAPS, the same length as the wristbands. 11th and 12th. Two SLEEVE-GUSSETS. 13th and 14th. Two NECK-GUSSETS. 15th and 16th. Two HIP, or SIDE-GUSSETS. 17th and 18th. Two WRIST-GUSSETS. 19th One BOSOM-GUSSET.

PLATE 17.

SCALE OF SHIRTS OF VARIOUS SIZES.

+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+ | | Fig. | Fig. | Fig. | | | 1, 2. | 3, 4. | 5, 6. | | ———————— +----------+----------+----------+ | |Child from|Child from|Child from| | | 8 to 10 | 11 to 14 | 15 to 18 | | | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. | +----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+ | |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. | |Quantity required for one | 2 8 | 2 11½ | 3 1 | |Quantity required for six | 13 14 | 14 8 | 18 0 | |Proper width of cloth | 9 | 12 | 13 | |Whole length of skirt | 1 9 | 1 11 | 2 0 | |Space to leave for shoulders| 2 | 2 | 2½ | |The space for the neck | | | | | will then be | 5 | 8 | 8 | |Slit downwards for bosom | 3½ | 3¾ | 4 | |Length of arm-holes | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Slit at the bottom for flaps| 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Width of sleeve | 6 | 7 | 8 | |Length down the selvage | 4½ | 5 | 6 | |Width of binders or linings | 1½ | 2 | 2½ | |Length down the selvage | 6½ | 7 | 10 | |Width of collar | 5 | 3 | 3 | |Length down the selvage | 6 | 6½ | 7 | |Width of wristband | 1½ | 2½ | 2 | |Length down the selvage | 2½ | 3 | 3½ | |Width of shoulder-strap | 1 | 1 | 1 | |Length down the selvage | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Size of sleeve-gussets | 2½ | 2½ | 3 | |Size of neck-gussets | 1½ | 1½ | 2 | |Size of bosom-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ | |Size of flap-gussets | ½ | ½ | 1 | +----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+ | | Fig. | Fig. | Fig. | | | 7, 8. | 9, 10. | 11, 12. | | ———————— +----------+----------+----------+ | | Man’s | Man’s | Man’s | | | small | larger | largest | | | size. | size. | size. | +----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+ | | Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| |Quantity required for one | 3 4 | 3 8 | 3 14 | |Quantity required for six | 19 12 | 21 1 | 23 0 | |Proper width of cloth | 13½ | 14 | 15 | |Whole length of skirt | 2 2 | 2 4 | 2 5 | |Space to leave for shoulders| 2½ | 2½ | 3 | |The space for the neck | | | | | will then be | 8½ | 9 | 9 | |Slit downwards for bosom | 4½ | 5 | 5½ | |Length of arm-holes | 5 | 5¼ | 5½ | |Slit at the bottom for flaps| 5 | 5 | 5 | |Width of sleeve | 7½ | 8 | 8 | |Length down the selvage | 7 | 8 | 10 | |Width of binders or linings | 3 | 3 | 3½ | |Length down the selvage | 11 | 12 | 12 | |Width of collar | 3 | 3 | 3½ | |Length down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 | |Width of wristband | 2½ | 2½ | 3 | |Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 4 | |Width of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | |Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 5 | |Size of sleeve-gussets | 3 | 3 | 4 | |Size of neck-gussets | 2 | 2 | 2½ | |Size of bosom-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ | |Size of flap-gussets | 1 | 1 | 1 | +----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+

PLATE 17. FIG. 2

Represents the best mode of cutting out six shirts of the same size as Fig. 1.

Cut off the bodies or skirts.

Cut off from the breadth the strip for the twelve sleeves, being in all three yards six nails in length, and six nails in width.

Cut from the remainder of the breadth the twelve linings, two in the breadth, six nails and a half long, and the twelve wristbands, two in the breadth, of two nails and a half long, thus using up all the strip.

Cut the other pieces as follows:—

Two collars in the breadth, C C, six nails long, three breadths. Nine shoulder-straps, S S, three nails long, one breadth. Three shoulder-straps and six neck-gussets, N N, three nails long, one breadth. Four sleeve-gussets, G G, two nails and a half long, three breadths. The collar is very wide, and intended to turn over.

PLATE 17. FIG. 4.

The most economical plan of cutting six shirts, the size of Fig. 3:— Two sleeves in the breadth, five nails long, six breadths. Six linings, B B, seven nails long, two breadths. Four collars, C C, six nails and a half long, one breadth. Two collars and twelve straps, S S, six nails and a half long, one breadth. Six sleeve-gussets, G G, two nails long, two breadths. Four wristbands (leaving two nails over), three nails long, three breadths.

The remainder, two nails wide, and nine nails long, to be cut up into six neck-gussets, N N, one nail and a half square, leaving a piece, half a nail wide and nine long, to form the remainder of the gussets.

PLATE 17. FIG. 6,

Is the most economical plan of cutting six shirts of the same size, as Fig. 5. Take off twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and six long, twelve lengths. From the long strip cut two binders, in width eight nails and a half, six lengths. And two wristbands in the width, W W, three nails and a quarter long, six lengths.

The whole strip is thus exactly used up. Three collars, C C, to be three nails wide and a piece over, seven nails long, two lengths. The piece left over of the breadth to be cut into Twelve shoulder-straps, S S, four in the width, four nails long, three breadths. Also two neck-gussets, N N, two nails square. Four sleeve-gussets, G, three nails square, and one neck-gusset, N, in the width, three nails square, three breadths. Thirteen flap and bosom-gussets, one nail square, one breadth.

PLATE 17. FIG. 8,

Represents the best plan of cutting six shirts, similar in size to Fig. 7.

Cut twelve sleeves, S S, seven nails and a half wide, seven nails long, twelve lengths.

In the remainder of the breadth, two binders in the width, of Eleven nails long, six lengths. Twelve sleeve-gussets, G G, three nails square, six lengths.

After which, cut as follows:— Four collars, C C, three nails wide and eight nails long, leaving a strip one nail and a half wide for little gussets, one length. Two collars and six wristbands, W W, eight nails long, one length. Three wristbands, and six neck-gussets, N N, four nails long, two lengths. Twelve shoulder-straps, S S, four nails long, one length.

A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS OF THE SAME SIZE AS FIG. 9.

PLATE 17. FIG. 10.

Measure off the whole length for sleeves, eight nails square, twelve lengths.

From the remainder of the breadth cut Two linings, B B, in the width, of twelve nails long, six lengths. Two collars, C C, in the width, of eight nails long, three lengths. The strip is thus exactly made up;— Cut six wristbands, W W, in the width, four nails long, two lengths. Four gussets, of three nails square and two nails over, three lengths. From the piece over, cut two shoulder-straps, four nails long, and a piece over. Six neck-gussets, two nails square in the breadth, one length. Ten shoulder-straps in the width, four nails long, one length. Fourteen gussets in the breadth, one nail square, one length.

A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS SIMILAR IN SIZE TO FIG. 11.

PLATE 17. FIG. 12.

Measure off the twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and ten long, twelve lengths. Two binders in the width, twelve nails long, six lengths. Two collars in the width, eight nails long, three lengths. Two wristbands in the width, four nails long, six lengths.

The strip is thus exactly used up, after which, Cut four sleeve-gussets in the width, three lengths. Six shoulder-straps, five nails long, two lengths. Six neck-gussets in the width, one length. Twelve flap-gussets in the width, two lengths.

EXPLANATION OF MAKING UP SHIRTS.

Double the long piece for the skirt in two, making the front breadth one nail shorter than the back breadth.

Measure the proper distance from the top for the arm-holes, and the proper distance from the bottom for flaps, and put in pins for marks.

The skirt is usually simply sewed up, but it is preferable, especially with gentlemen’s shirts, to make a hem the whole length of the skirt, on each side, and then sew up between the arm-holes and flaps, firmly, with thick even stitches.

Proceed next to stitch the collar and wristbands. Let the stitching be made about six threads from the edge, and carried all round both the wristbands and collar; taking care not to pass the stitches through both folds of them, at the opening or part, in which the fulness of the sleeve or shirt is to be gathered.

Next prepare the straps by turning them in, and drawing the threads; do the same with the neck and other gussets.

Now sew up the sleeves, putting in the large gussets, the little wrist-gussets and gathering them into the wristbands, to prepare them for putting into the shirts. Then put in the side-gussets, and hem the flaps and bottom of the shirt. These gussets are fixed by sewing them on at the wrong side of the shirt to within a quarter of an inch less than the square, and felling the other side nearly over. The neck gussets are next managed in the same manner, taking care to put the stitched part on the right side.

The shoulder-strap is then doubled in half, and slightly tacked on the middle of the shoulder in the inside; then place each side flat on the shirt, and stitch it in the lines that have been prepared for it.

The bosom is then stitched; and the button-holes made, or if, as in gentlemen’s shirts, a piece is let into the front, it must be arranged according to the taste of the wearer.

The lining is now neatly felled on, and the neck gathered, and set into the collar, after which the sleeves are gathered and put in. The bosom-bit may then be sewed in, and when the buttons are put on the whole is completed.

The shirt is marked about an inch below the left hip or gusset.

GENTLEMEN’S SHIRTS.

PLATE 18.

Gentlemen’s shirts are usually made of fine Irish linen or lawn, and sometimes of long cloth. Some gentlemen wear striped calico, but seldom, unless engaged in sporting, boating, or fishing. Gentlemen’s sons, up to ten or eleven years of age, or persons going into hot climates, wear strong calico, it being considered more healthful than linen, the latter is, however, the best wearing of the two, but more expensive. Care should be taken to procure the proper width, according to the size wanted; and the proper quantity, according to the number required. The Suffolk hemp is considered the best for shirting.

Gentlemen’s shirts are cut much on the same principle, but upon a more liberal plan than those mentioned for the labouring classes, with a few exceptions: such as some varieties in the pattern and size of binders, collars, shoulder-straps, &c. In most of them also, a piece of the linen is cut out in the front or bosom, and two pieces of cambric, or fine lawn, either plaited, or fulled in the place, to form the two sides or half fronts to the shirt. A scale is first given of different sizes, and then the best of the various patterns will be explained.

SCALE.

+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+ | | 6 Years. | 8 Years. | 10 Years.| +---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+ | | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls.|Yds. nls. | |Quantity of cloth required | | | | | for 1, about | 2 7 | 2 15 | 3 3 | |Quantity required for six, about |14 10 | 16 4 |20 10 | |Proper width of cloth | 9 | 9 | 10 | |Whole length of shirt | 1 8 | 1 9 | 1 12 | |Space to leave for shoulders | 2 | 2¼ | 3 | |Length of arm-holes | 3 | 3¼ | 3¾ | |Slit at the bottom for flaps | 3 | 4 | 4 | |Width of sleeve | 4½ |6½ or 7 nls| 6 | |Length of sleeve down the selvage| 6½ | 7 | 8 | |Width of binders or linings | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ | |Length of ditto down the selvage | 6½ | 8 | 8 | |Width of collar |4 or 5 nls | 2 |5 or 6 nls| |Length down the selvage | 6 | 6 | 7 | |Width of wristband | 1½ | 2 | 2 | |Length down the selvage | 2½ |3 or 3½ nls| 3½ | |Width of shoulder-straps | 1 | 1 | | |Length down the selvage | 3 | 3 | 4 | |Size of sleeve-gussets | 2 | 2 | 3 | |Size of neck-gusset | 1½ | 1½ | 1¾ | |Length of piece to cut for bosom | | 5 | 5 | |Width of ditto | | 3 | 3½ | |Width of cambric to put | | | | | in each side | | 4 | 4 | |Width of shoulder-strap, if gored| 1½ | 2 | 2 | |Widest width to be gored to | 1 | 1½ | 1½ | |Width of frills if used | | ½ | ¾ | |Bosom flap and wrist-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ | |Slit for bosom | 4 | 5 | 5 | +---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+ | | 12 Years. | 16 Years. | Men’s | Men’s | | | | | Small | Large | +---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+ | | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls.| |Quantity of cloth required | | | | | | for 1, about | 2 14 | 3 5 | 3 9½ | 3 15 | |Quantity required for six, about | 18 9 | 18 9 |20 11 |22 7½ | |Proper width of cloth | 12 | 14 | 14½ | 16 | |Whole length of shirt | 1 13 | 2 0 | 2 2 | 2 4 | |Space to leave for shoulders | 3¼ | 3½ | 3½ | 3½ | |Length of arm-holes | 4½ | 4½ | 5 | 5 | |Slit at the bottom for flaps | 4½ | 4½ | 4½ | 4½ | |Width of sleeve | 6 or 7 nls| 7 | 7¼ | 8 | |Length of sleeve down the selvage| 9 | 9 | 9 | 11 | |Width of binders or linings | 2 | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Length of ditto down the selvage | 12 | 9 | 11 | 11 | |Width of collar |2 or 2½ nls| 2½ |2 or 3 nls| 4 | |Length down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | |Width of wristband | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | |Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | |Width of shoulder-straps | 2 | 2 | 1¼ | 1½ | |Length down the selvage | 6 | 4½ | 4½ | 5 | |Size of sleeve-gussets | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ | 3½ | |Size of neck-gusset | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 | 2 | |Length of piece to cut for bosom | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | |Width of ditto | 4 | 5 | 5 | 5 | |Width of cambric to put | | | | | | in each side | 4 | 6 | 6 | 6 | |Width of shoulder-strap, if gored| 2¼ | 2½ | 2½ | 2½ | |Widest width to be gored to | 1¾ | 2 | 2 | 2 | |Width of frills if used | ¾ | 1 | 1 | 1¼ | |Bosom flap and wrist-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ | ½ | |Slit for bosom | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | +---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+

[Illustration: PLATE 18

Fig 1 Fig 14 Fig 16 Fig 30

Fig 7 Fig 15 Fig 31 Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 32

Fig 8 Fig 17 Fig 28

Fig 9 Fig 18 Fig 20

Fig 10 Fig 2 Fig 19 Fig 33

Fig 11 Fig 3 Fig 21 Fig 36 Fig 34 Fig 35

Fig 12 Fig 4 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 37 Fig 38

Fig 13 Fig 5 Fig 24 Fig 39 Fig 40

Fig 6 Fig 25 Fig 41 Fig 42]

GENTLEMEN’S SHIRT FRONTS.

PLATE 18.

There are various modes of making up fronts, dependant on the age and taste of the wearer, as well as upon the changes of fashion. The material of which the front is made, should be of a width as to allow of the two half fronts being cut in the breadth; the length is measured from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the opening prepared for it, allowing plenty to turn in at each end. The two halves having been made up according to fancy, are put into the front, making them overlap each other a full nail, exactly in the middle (see Fig. 2), which prevents the slit opening and exposing the skin. The most approved fronts, and those in general use, are the following:—

A YOUNG CHILD’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 1.

Is generally quite plain, with a broad hem and small pearl buttons; it should overlap half a nail.

A BOY’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is neatly gathered in, and at the end marked A, the fulling is set into a band of calico or linen, according to the material of the shirt, into which the shirt itself is also gathered.

AN OLDER BOY’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3.

These are usually secured in broad or narrow plaits, according to taste, at both ends, but not stitched down the whole way. The advantage of this is to permit of the first being pulled over when washed and ironed, at the same time that it naturally arranges itself in regular plaits whilst worn. The hem is sometimes made to project from the collar to half its depth at the top, where a little corner is left, attached to which is a button-hole which buttons it over to the other side of the collar.

ANOTHER BOY’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 4.

This is arranged in small neat tucks, and is more adapted to young boys than the last. The make of this shirt differs from the others in most particulars. The front is entire, but with false buttons, and it opens behind, where there is a slit for the purpose in both shirt and collar. Many boys have their shirts made in this manner, but the washerwomen complain much of the trouble of ironing these closed fronts.

A GENTLEMAN’S SHIRT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 5.

This front is stitched down with the greatest neatness, in the most perfectly regular plaits, either broad or narrow, according to the fashion. The distance of the spaces between the plaits also varies much; sometimes an equal distance with the width of the plait is observed, at others only a half or a quarter, and sometimes the plaits are made to overlap one another: this last mode looks heavy and common. Either buttons or two sets of button-holes are put, to admit of shirt studs, in which case, the buttons of one side are straight down the hem, and the corresponding button-holes on the other side are cut width-wise.

ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 6.

This is fulled evenly at the top and bottom, and a frill of the finest cambric, sewed on to both sides. Sometimes the front is sewed in plain, and two frills sewed on one side, without any on the other, but this is rather an old fashioned shirt.

SHOULDER-STRAPS.

The shoulder-straps to gentlemen’s shirts vary also a little, but the plain long strap, Fig. 1 and 7, is the one most usually approved of, nevertheless the few following shapes will be explained, for the benefit of those who may like to adopt them.

A CHILD’S SHOULDER-STRAP.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

The skirt of this shirt is carried straight up to the neck-gusset, which alone forms the strap, while an extra neck-gusset, the same size, is sewed on to the skirt at B, to lengthen the shoulder; this gusset must be cut in two parts, to admit of the fulling of the sleeve between the pieces. All the sleeve is fulled into this gusset, and the sleeve-gusset below, forms the rest of the arm-holes.

A SHOULDER-STRAP FOR ANY SIZED SHIRT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3, 8, 9.

Some straps, instead of being continued over the neck-gusset, are divided, or split into two parts, for about half their length, and are made to be laid along, the one on each side of the neck-gusset. The piece is cut in a straight length, and merely slit far enough to admit of the neck-gusset between.

ANOTHER SHOULDER-STRAP.

PLATE 18. FIG. 4, 10.

This forms shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at once, and has a neat appearance. The strip of cloth must be of the proper length and width for straps when gored, as mentioned in the Scale: after being gored, this piece of cloth is set on the shoulder, with, of course, the wide end towards the collar.

SLEEVES FOR LITTLE SHIRTS.

Young boys often have short sleeves confined into a band, as in the right hand sleeve of the shirt marked Fig. 1.

ANOTHER SLEEVE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is often worn by children of the working classes, and is merely a large gusset doubled, and sewed on double (see the right hand sleeve of Fig. 2).

AN OLDER BOY’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3.

This is made similar to those of a regular shirt, excepting that sometimes half a gusset only is sewed on to the sleeve instead of a square. This is less clumsy, and with a thin arm is more comfortable, though, generally speaking, the square gusset is the best, both for wear and for appearance.

VARIOUS WAYS OF PLAITING THE SKIRT IN FRONT.

When the part is cut out in front, a piece of cambric that is not so wide is put in for the front, so that the skirt below the slit is full and requires confining; this is done in various ways:—

Sometimes in regular fulling, as in Fig. 2. Sometimes in regular plaits, as in Fig. 3. Sometimes in gathers, brought much in front, as Fig. 4. Sometimes in double plaits. Sometimes in plaits, stitched down, as in Fig 5.

VARIOUS SHAPES OF WRISTBANDS.

The most common shaped wristband, and one of the neatest, is that which is perfectly straight, and stitched neatly all round.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 1, 13.

Fig. 13 is a favourite shape, especially for boys. It is pointed; care must be taken in stitching it, to make the right side lie on the outside, when turned back, as in Fig. 1 (see the wristband attached to the sleeve).

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 11.

This is a very neat shape, and accords with the collar of the shirt, Fig. 6. It is stitched all round, neat button-holes made, and buttons sewed on.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 12.

This is remarkably pretty, and is much worn. The wristband when unturned is nearly as wide again as its proper width, not including the stitched hems.

BINDERS AND LININGS.

Shirts should always have binders or linings, and these vary in a few particulars. The binder is intended to strengthen that part of the shirt brought most into play by the movement of the arms, especially at the back, and also prevent the wear and tear of the braces.

Gentlemen’s shirts have usually the binders very narrow, so as to leave a pretty wide space between each binder and the front, as in Fig. 4. It is however thought preferable by prudent wives, either to increase the width of the binder, so as to join the front, as in Fig. 5, or else to have a second binder or lining smaller than the first, between the regular lining and the front (see A, Fig. 6).

GENTLEMEN’S AND BOYS’ COLLARS.

These vary so very much, according to the make of the neck and chin, as also the taste of the wearer, that only a few general patterns will be introduced as guides.

Many gentlemen prefer having a narrow band sewed on to the shirt, as in Fig. 5, about three-quarters of a nail deep, on which they fasten the collar, by letting the shirt button slip through a button-hole made in the middle of the collar.

Collars are always of double lawn or linen.

A LITTLE BOY’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 1,

is a neat finish to a shirt, being a simple broad band back-stitched, and a fine cambric or lawn frill crimped and sewed at the top. The band should be one nail deep, when made up.

AN OLDER BOY’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is a very pretty collar also for the children of friends, being particularly simple. It is, when made up, about two nails and a half deep. As it falls over the jacket, observe to stitch it properly. It would suit the wristbands in Fig. 12.

OTHER COLLARS FOR OLDER BOYS.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3,

Is merely a straight band about one nail deep, and Fig. 4 is the same a little curved, so as to be deeper and more pointed in front than at the back, which gives a light appearance.

A MAN’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 6.

See Fig. 6. This is a very neat collar, for an elderly gentleman especially, and when made up, is about two nails and a quarter deep. The front is curved, and rather deeper than the back (say half a nail): to this collar should be worn wristbands, Fig. 11.

ANOTHER COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 14.

This is a neat shape, but, as it is doubtful whether it would suit every one, it should be cut in paper, and tried on. The Plate only represents one half, the letter A being the centre. It should be sewed into a band.

A NEAT GENTLEMAN’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 15.

This is the most approved sort, and may be sewed to the shirt, or to a loose band. The half or gills, are cut crosswise of the cloth, and four of them make one collar, as they are double; in sewing them on the band, two places are left to form a kind of long button-hole, through which the strings are put when tying it on. A button-hole in the middle of the collar, enables it to be firmly fastened to the shirt, as also do the two strings sewed to the band. Fig. 17 is one gill, and Fig. 18, the band.

ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 27.

This is also sewed upon a band, and is a remarkably pretty shape, if cut according to the plan of the drawing, on which the measurements of the nails are marked. The band, Fig. 28, has in it two button-holes; it is about one nail deep, and eight nails long. The collar is cut all in one length, and slit down in the middle to within half a nail of the bottom, thus making the slit one nail deep.

A LITTLE BOY’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 20, 21.

These are particularly pretty collars for little boys of from six to eight or nine. They are made of double Irish linen stitched round, and made to fall over the dress. Frills are sometimes attached to them, and suit young children very well; two or three button-holes are made in them, to attach them to the shirt. A broad black ribbon is generally worn with them round the neck.

A MAN’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 19.

These are worn by men and boys, to put on over a soiled or tumbled shirt, to give a neat appearance; they are, however, seldom used, it being much better to put on a clean shirt at once. It has two sides of fine lawn, with a front of cambric, which is plaited or gathered, according to pleasure, with a false hem down the middle, and buttons, so as to appear to open. This is hollowed under the neck, to the depth of a nail; two neck-gussets are attached, of one nail and a half square.

The gussets and front are sewed to a band or collar eight nails long, and about one nail and a half in depth before it is made up.

A BOY’S CHEAT OR FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 23, 24, 25.

This is a kind of habit-shirt, to which a collar with a frill is attached. Fig. 23 is the collar, which should be neatly stitched, and a frill of fine lawn or cambric, half a nail in the whole depth, set on round it. Fig. 24 is the habit-shirt of the dimensions marked on the Plate, and Fig. 5 is the cheat completed, when sewed together.

A GENTLEMAN’S STOCK.

PLATE 18. FIG. 26.

Gentlemen’s stocks are worn round the neck over the collar, and are made of stuff, muslin, horse-hair or buckram: the Figure is the shape of half of one. The halves are sewed firmly together up the centre (see M); they are bound round the edge with leather, and covered with satin, mode, or rich twilled silk. They are sometimes made, as in Fig. 29, with a fold of silk in the middle, through which two ends are passed; these are of one piece of silk, cut the cross way, and are four nails broad, and seven nails long, rounded a little at the ends.

CRAVATS.

They are generally made of fine muslin, and are the shape of a half handkerchief, being cut from a square of eighteen nails.

CLERGYMAN’S DRESS.

The cassock, the gown, the surplice, the badge or sash, the scarf or hood, and the bands, constitute the chief.

THE CASSOCK.

PLATE 18. FIG. 34, 35.

It is made sometimes of stuff, sometimes of rich black silk, in the following manner:—Cut four breadths of silk, one yard and a half long each. Two breadths form the front, and are sewed together; after which, a gore is cut from each outer side, the width of half the breadth at the top, sloped to a point at the bottom, by which means, when reversed and the seams are sown, the front is increased at the bottom to three breadths, while at the top it is reduced to one.

The other two breadths form the back; they are gored in the same manner, excepting that the gore is only a quarter of a breadth wide at the bottom.

The shoulder is hollowed down two nails. The shoulder is two and a half or three nails long. The arm-hole is three nails deep. The arm-hole is cut into the stuff one nail. The collar is six nails long, four nails wide behind, and two nails wide in front.

The sleeve is shaped like a coat sleeve, with two seams down it, three-quarters of a yard long, and the whole width of the silk, which just admits of its being shaped off in the width. The wristband is four nails long, and about two nails wide. The pocket is six nails long, and just the width of the breadth of silk, which, when doubled, forms it.

In making up, run and fell the seams very neatly, making the two gores fall together between the front and back breadths.

The hem down the opening in front, is half a nail broad.

The back has a piece of sufficient width cut out from the top, A, to the waist, B (Fig. 35), to admit of its setting plain to the figure, and from the waist the skirt is left open; the extra fulness may be confined in two large plaits behind.

The top of the front is cut on each side to a point, and on each point is a little loop or button-hole; one loop fastens to a button inside near the collar, see A (Fig. 34), and the other outside, to a button at the opposite side of the neck (see B).

The collar is sewed on to the back of the cassock, so as to leave off on each side, just at the turn in front, thus allowing plenty of space for the bands. The pocket is put in straight, under the right arm, about four nails below the arm-hole (see the dotted line, Fig. 34).

The sleeves are lined with black twilled cotton, the wristbands are also lined and turned up.

A cross-way piece of silk is laid on at the bottom of the collar of the cassock inside, and also in front at A B (Fig. 34).

THE GOWN.

PLATE 18. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40.

This is made of fine bombazine, and contains four breadths, of nineteen nails long, and four gores of the same length, and three nails and a half wide at the bottom, sloped to a point at the top.

Two of these breadths fall behind, next are sewed the two gores, one on each side, and then the one breadth to hang in front on each side.

The sleeves are one yard long, and, when open, thirteen nails wide. At the end they are shaped according to Fig. 39, 40: the end, A B, being but three nails wide, and a piece cut out at C, at four nails from A. At five nails from the shoulder, a slit is made in front (see S), through which the arms appear, whilst the remainder of the sleeve is sewed up all round. At the back of the sleeve, two gores of one nail and a half wide, and two nails and a half long, are put in.

The shoulder-piece is cut according to Fig. 36.

The distance from A to B being three nails, and the depth of the sides, C to E, D to E two nails and a half, while that in the middle is only one nail and a quarter.

In making up, after sewing the seams, &c. together, and making a hem of about one nail broad all round, the two back breadths of the skirt should be fulled into the middle of the shoulder-piece. This fulling is biassed down at about the distance of one nail and a half below the first gathering. The two gores are set in on each side into the sleeve, which is set into the shoulder-piece, and also biassed; the other breadth comes in front.

The shoulder-piece is lined with buckram and silk, or black glazed calico, to make it more durable.

THE SURPLICE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 32, 33.

This is made of fine Irish linen, one yard wide, and has in it four breadths of one yard and a half long; two breadths being behind, and one on each side of the opening in front. Besides these four breadths, a gore, three nails wide and carried up to a point, is put between the front and back breadths, up to below the arm.

The straight part of the gore comes in front. The sleeve, Fig. 33, is one yard and one nail long, and the whole width of the linen in the breadth. The sleeve has two gussets in it; that in front of the sleeve, or nearest the wrist, is thirteen nails square; the other gusset, which also forms part of the arm-hole, is five nails and a half square.

The collar is thirteen nails long, and five nails and a half in its whole width.

In making up, run and fell the seams, letting in the gores, observing to put the straight part in front. Hem down the fronts half a nail deep, and at the bottom one nail. The sleeve is very peculiar, and requires attention in making up (see Fig. 32, 33). The large gusset is put into the sleeve towards the wrist, so as to hang down very low below the arms. This gusset is rounded off at the corner, A; and forms the other corner of the gusset, B, along the doubled part, B A, cut open a piece large enough to admit of the small gusset being sewed into it; D is the doubled part of each gusset. The whole of the top of the sleeve is gathered up into the neck at the collar, while part of the side of the sleeve and the small gusset form the part that fits into the arm-hole of the surplice; the skirt is all fulled into the collar, together with the top of the two sleeves, and then nicely biassed down in two rows below the collar.

The collar is stitched all round like that of a shirt.

THE SASH OR BADGE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 30.

It is made of rich black silk or satin.

It is the whole breadth of the silk in depth, and three-quarters of a yard long. It is folded in three or four regular plaits until it is about two nails broad; these plaits are confined at the ends by sewing them to double pieces of silk (see A), which are cut out two nails square, and rounded off at the outer ends, to a half circular form. Strings of ribbon of 3d. width, are sewed to these ends, which tie round the waist.

THE SCARF OR HOOD.

This is made of silk, but of such various forms, depending on the degree of the wearer, and the college where he has been educated, that it is needless to enter upon the subject in detail.

THE BANDS.

PLATE 18. FIG. 31.

They are made of the finest cambric, and are about two nails deep, and one nail wide when hemmed. The hem being a quarter of a nail deep. They should be a little hollowed at the top, to fit the neck. The two bands are sewed to a tape in the inside, which ties round the neck.

THE CLERK’S GOWN.

PLATE 18. FIG. 41, 42.

The clerk’s gown is made of black stuff or calimanco.

Cut four breadths of about one yard and a half long; these breadths when sewed together, leaving one open for the front, are biassed behind, from the middle of the second to the middle of the third breadth; this biassing is in three rows from the collar, the first row being one quarter of a nail below it, and the two others at one nail distant from each other.

The shoulders are next sloped from the remainder, like those of a pinafore, being three nails and a half long, and sewed up. The arm-hole is cut into the front breadth at the distance of one nail beyond the first seam, and is five nails long. The shoulder-flaps are one nail and a half deep, by five long.

The sleeve is the whole width of the breadth, about six nails wide when doubled, and is fifteen or sixteen nails long; at six nails from the top, the slit is cut in the sleeves of two nails deep on each side of the top of the arm. The bottom of the sleeve is sewed up together, and when done, instead of sewing them as the sleeve would naturally lie, the stuff at the bottom is differently folded, so as to make the two creases lie together, and thus distorts or twists the sleeve.

Strings are put to the collar, which is cut like Fig. 13, Plate 16. A broad hem is made in front, and at the bottom.

CHILDREN’S BONNETS.

PLATE 19.

The first bonnet for infants after the hood (see Chap. 4, in baby-linen), should be soft and warm, and till they are two or three years old, children should wear them of cloth, merino, silk, satin, print, or calico, in preference to straw, or pasteboard. Bonnets should be light but warm, and for young children especially, should have little trimming or ornament. A few pretty and simple shapes for both the upper and lower classes are here given and explained.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD SIX YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 1, 2, 3.

This may be made of cloth, merino, chintz, or nankeen, with cotton runners. It is in three parts, the brim, front or poke, the crown, and the round patch.

Cut first a paper pattern the whole size of each part of the bonnet, the Plate represents but half, therefore double the paper and cut it by the figure. Your paper must be five nails wide by four long, for the poke, Fig. 2.

Measure along the top, A B, two and three-quarter nails, the point, C, is exactly half way down the side, two nails from the top and bottom; the point, G, is two nails from the side, and one and a half nails from the top; curve along B G C. E is two and a half nails from the corner; from C to E, must be gradually sloped or rounded: go on, sloping it easily, up to F, which is one and a half nails from the top; from F to A, is quite straight.

The crown comes next; your paper must be four nails square, when doubled at D. From the corner to H, is half a nail, from H to I, two nails, slope gradually to K, which is two and a quarter nails from the top: cut in a straight line from K to L, which is situated two nails from the corner, and again in a straight line from L to M, one and a quarter nail from the bottom. From M to H, is slightly curved. The patch is made to fit the crown.

[Illustration: PLATE 19

Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3

Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6

Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10

Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15

Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19

Fig. 20 Fig. 21 Fig. 22

Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26

Fig. 27 Fig. 28 Fig. 29

Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32

Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35

Fig. 36 Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 39

Fig. 40 Fig. 41 Fig. 42 Fig. 43

Fig. 44 Fig. 45 Fig. 46 Fig. 47

Fig. 48 Fig. 49 Fig. 51

Fig. 50 Fig. 52

Fig. 53 Fig. 54 Fig. 55

Fig. 56 Fig. 57

Fig. 59 Fig. 60 Fig. 58

Fig. 61 Fig. 62 Fig. 63

Fig. 64 Fig. 65 Fig. 66]

In making up, a lining is cut out exactly the size of the outside, run the two together on the wrong side, at the edge of the brim, and turn them; then run cotton cords between the lining and the outside, as in the Plate, and two or three are put round the edge to give it firmness: runners are also made in the crown and the patch, the latter having a cord all round it, and they are then sewed strongly together, the part, H M, fitting into B G C, and the patch into I K. A curtain, one nail and a half in depth, is put on rather full behind, and strings of the chintz, or calico neatly hemmed, or of ribbon will complete it.

The size here given is for a child five years old, but it is a useful kind of bonnet for those much younger.

CHILD’S DRAWN BONNET.

PLATE 19. FIG. 4, 5, 6.

This is usually made of silk, satin, or glazed calico.

The poke or front (Fig. 5), is an oblong, which is cut two or more nails down the selvage, according to the depth desired, and of such a length (cut width-way of the material), as will be two and a half times the length from ear to ear. This oblong is hemmed at each side, and bobbins put in to draw it up: two runners are made at equal distances between to draw up. The crown or head-piece, Fig. 6, is in one piece, and is also an oblong, about one nail deeper than the poke, and a fourth longer. Make runners down each side, and three or four equal distances between.

In making up the bonnet, the poke is drawn up to the proper size, and a double piping laid round it. The crown is then formed by drawing up the first runner as close as possible, and the second sufficiently so to make it flat and circular. The remainder is drawn to the proper shape to form the head-piece, being less drawn at each succeeding runner to make it wider at the bottom. Lay on a band of silk piped at each end, and sew it firmly round, and then attach the poke to it. Next make a soft lining to the head-piece, and a circular piece of wool in muslin may be attached to the crown, to keep it in shape. A curtain and strings complete the bonnet. A quilling of ribbon round the edge, and a rosette at the side, give a greater finish.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 7, 8, 9, 10.

This is a remarkably neat little bonnet; it is in four parts. The poke is a plain piece two nails and a half deep, by ten nails and a half long, sloped off at the outer edge one nail and a half at each end, it is ornamented with cotton runners, quilted or braided; cut a strip, Fig. 8, nine nails long by one nail and a half wide, which must have a runner at each edge, and the same in rows across, to give it firmness, if it is not quilted or braided; the third part is another strip sixteen nails long, and three nails and a quarter wide at the widest part, sloped off nearly to a point at each end, Fig. 10; the horse-shoe, two nails and a quarter long, and one nail and three quarters broad at the top, is lined and has a cord run all round the edge. The curtain is one nail and a half deep, put on rather full.

In making up, sew the quilted poke or front strongly to the straight strip, Fig. 8; gather the sloped strip, Fig. 10, at each edge, set it on one side into the straight piece, and on the other into the horse-shoe, fulling it more in front than at the sides. Put on the curtain, and the bonnet is finished. It draws up behind to the side of the head; here it is represented as undrawn.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD TWO YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.

This is well adapted for a child’s first or second bonnet, and looks well, made of coloured kerseymere or Indiana braided or worked in chain-stitch.

To cut out the poke, take a piece of paper, which when doubled is four nails long by two and a half nails wide (see Fig. 12), the doubled part from D to B, is two nails long; slope off gradually from A to E, beginning the greatest sloping at F, which is about half way down the side; the point E is one nail and a half from the corner, continue sloping to C, which is about one nail above the bottom of your paper; the curve, B C, is parallel to, or even with the curve, A F E. The head-piece, Fig. 13, is cut from a paper, which when folded is three nails long and two broad; from G to H, the doubled part, is one nail, from G to L, two nails and a quarter; cut a slightly curved line from L to K, the point K, being half a nail from the corner, next cut quite straight to J, being three-quarters of a nail above the angle or corner, sweep gradually from J to H. Fig. 14 represents half the crown; D is the doubled part, and is four nails long from M to N; the part from N to O is four and a half nails, the rest from O to M, is cut like a quarter of a circle. Fig. 15 is the part that supports or holds up the crown behind, the doubled part, U P, is two nails and a half long, from U to T is two nails and a quarter, curve it gently about half a nail; from the corner to T is half a nail; from T to S is one nail and a half, S being half a nail from the side of the square; the top of R, the next vandyke is two nails in a straight line from the bottom. These vandykes are about one nail deep.

The Plate shows sufficiently clearly how this bonnet is made up, to dispense with any further description, except to say that the crown, Fig. 14, is evenly gathered into the head-piece, Fig. 13, and the back-piece, Fig. 15. The curtain is put on, strings and a small bow may be added behind.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD THREE YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 16, 17, 18, 19.

This bonnet is very generally worn; the one represented in the Plate is for a little girl about three years old, though older and younger children would find it both suitable and comfortable; it is made of cloth, print, or nankeen, lined, and with runners in every part. It is in three pieces; to cut out the poke, Fig. 19, take a piece of paper, which, when folded in two, is four nails long and two nails and a quarter broad. D is the doubled part; from A to B is three nails, it is slightly curved; A being about one quarter of a nail from the top and half a nail from the side, next cut in nearly a straight line to C, and continue the curving to E, which is half a nail from the corner; from B to E, in a straight line, is two nails and a quarter; cut in a straight direction from E to F, the latter being one quarter of a nail above the corner; from A to F is one nail and three-quarters.

The head-piece, Fig. 17, when doubled (D being the folded part), is two nails and a half long, and two nails at the deepest part, which is to go in the front, sloped off to one nail and a half for the back. The crown is merely a horse-shoe; Fig. 18 is two nails and a half long, one nail and three-quarters at the top, and sloped off one quarter of a nail on each side, so as to make it only one nail and a quarter at the bottom.

In making up, the runners may be put in simply as in the Plate, or arranged in a pattern, or the bonnet may be quilted, but there must be two or three runners round the edge, and inner part of the poke, at the top and bottom of the head-piece, and all round the horse-shoe.

Put on a full curtain of one nail and a half deep.

BONNET FOR A CHILD FOUR YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 20, 21, 22.

This is a neat little bonnet with a stiff front, and is cut out as follows:—

For the pattern of the front, Fig. 20, let your paper, when folded in two, be three nails and a half long, by three nails broad, it may be rounded or left square at the ends, according to fancy, D being the doubled part; this front or poke is made of stiff pasteboard.

The crown, Fig. 22, is seven nails long at the doubled part, D, and six nails long at the bottom, A B, cut in a straight line, A F, for two nails, and again straight, F E, for three nails, then round it gradually up to C.

Before making up, cut out two pieces of calico, print, silk, or other material, the size of the poke, Fig. 21, then run them neatly together at the edge, and up the ends, and slip the pasteboard in; hem the bottom of the crown, Fig. 22, A B, and up the ends, A F, for the curtain. Hem from F to E, and make a runner about half a nail within the edge up to C, through which a bobbin must be passed, and drawn up to the width of the poke; it must be sewed strongly to the outside of the front, letting the little frill lie over it, as in the Plate, forming a sort of trimming; the lining of the poke must be only turned in, and slightly tacked down, so that the pasteboard may be easily taken out when the bonnet is washed. A runner is made across the back of the crown, about two nails above F E G, through which tapes are passed: the ends of the lower ones are sewed a little way along the poke, and when the bonnet is fitted to the head, these runners are drawn to the proper size. Put on hemmed strings of the same material.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD, THREE, FOUR, OR FIVE YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 23, 24, 25, 26.

This is a school child’s common bonnet, it may be made of print, gingham, or nankeen, and is in three parts. The head-piece, Fig. 24, when folded in two, is seven nails long, and three nails wide at the doubled and widest part, D, sloped off to one nail and a half at the bottom. The poke, Fig. 26, when doubled, is two nails and a half broad, by three nails and a half long, and a little rounded from A to B. Fig. 25 is the horse-shoe, two nails long, and two nails broad at the top, sloped off to one nail and three-quarters at the bottom.

In making up, the front is wadded or quilted, with a cotton runner at the outer edge, and two or three at the inner edge, to give it firmness; a runner is also put in round the horse-shoe. The front of the crown is gathered evenly to the poke, the horse-shoe set in, and a curtain set on behind.

When worn, the front of the bonnet is turned up, as in the Plate.

ANOTHER SOFT BONNET FOR A YOUNG CHILD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 27, 28, 29.

This is also a school child’s bonnet, and may be made of any soft or washing material.

Fig. 29 represents the poke, which, when doubled at D, is three nails and a half long, by three nails wide. The crown, Fig. 28, is six nails wide at the bottom, and seven nails at its longest part, rounded off on each side; three runners are made at the bottom of it, about a nail apart.

The poke is quilted, wadded, or run with cotton, and the crown sewed to it, rather fuller in the centre in front, than at the sides; the runners are drawn up, and tied at the proper size, and upon the lower one a curtain, one nail and a half or two nails deep, is set, and extends a little on each side upon the ends of the front or brim.

HATS AND CAPS.

PLATE 19.

Hats and caps for young boys should be made of soft materials, similar to bonnets for little girls; as they become older, their hats must of course be stronger and stiffer; some of both sorts will here be described, as well as travelling and other caps for grown-up persons.

PORRINGER CLOTH CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 30.

This is an extremely simple cap for young boys; it is made of cloth or merino, and consists of three pieces. The band, which is merely a piece of cloth half a nail deep, and sufficiently long to go round the child’s head, say, eight nails and a half, or nine nails long; the head-piece, which is also about nine nails long, before being joined up, and one nail and a half deep, is made with runners in an upright direction or across the cloth at regular distances, which give a degree of firmness to the cap; the round patch or crown is about one nail and a half across, with a runner made round the edge of it. When made up, it should be lined with demet or flannel and soft calico.

SOFT HAT FOR A YOUNG CHILD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 31, 32.

This little hat looks very pretty made of glazed cambric muslin or of calico, either white or coloured; if wanted for winter wear, it may be made of merino, cloth, or kerseymere, plain or braided.

For the brim, Fig. 32, cut a circle five nails across, with a hole in the centre of it two nails across, for the head, a little may be sloped off from the back, or not, according to pleasure; the crown is one nail and a quarter deep, and nine nails long before it is joined up, and the circle or patch is made to fit exactly. When the hat is made of glazed calico, it is lined with the same, and runners of cotton put in, either simply or in a pattern. A strap or ribbon is attached on each side, from about half way up the crown to about half the breadth of the brim, to keep it up and in its place. Strings are sewed at the inside.

SOFT CAP FOR A YOUNG BOY.

PLATE 19. FIG. 33.

This cap is made of glazed calico, white or coloured, or of any other soft light material, with runners in it; the brim is cut in the shape of Fig. 39, it is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a half broad at the deepest part, sloped off as in the Plate; the crown is one nail and a quarter deep, and from eight to nine nails long before being sewed up; the circle of course is made to fit it.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 34.

This is only a variety of the preceding cap; the brim is cut like Fig. 35, and is four nails long, and one nail deep, at the broadest part in front, sloped off at the ends; the Plate shews the way in which the runners are put in.

CAP FOR AN INFANT BOY.

PLATE 19. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39.

This is a remarkably pretty cap for an infant, after he has left off his hood; it is made of white or coloured satin, kerseymere, or merino.

The brim, Fig. 39, is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a half deep, and sloped as in the Plate, the head-piece is a full nail deep when folded in small plaits, and eight nails and three-quarters long before it is sewed up; the little flap or piece behind, Fig. 38, is about one nail deep; the longest part of it, or that to be turned up, is two nails and three-quarters long; that fastened to the hat is one nail and three-quarters; it is sloped at each end. The square or top of the hat, is two nails and a half every way; four other pieces must be cut one nail deep, and two nails and three-quarters wide at the top, sloped at each side down to two nails at the bottom.

In making up, take a piece of buckram of the size of the head-piece, lay it upon a demet or thin wadding, and flute the kerseymere upon it, putting a fine silk cord, or a piece of coarse stay or netting silk between the flutes.

The crown must next be prepared; ornament the square according to fancy, working the pattern in spots, either in braid, or in stay or netting silk; line this also with buckram, demet, and silk, to each side of the square, sew the widest side of each of the four pieces above described, these pieces having previously been lined, as before mentioned, sew the corners of the four firmly together, inlaying a piping; the head-piece is then put on, next set on the back-piece, Fig. 38, this is lined with silk or satin, in the following manner:—After the buckram is put in, the lining is sewed to it, and not being sloped at the narrow end of the kerseymere, it allows of being fulled or plaited at the part nearest the hat. The brim is finished in the same manner, the satin lining being plain at the edge, and gathered to the head-piece; it has also demet and buckram within the lining, and is worked in a similar manner to the square, upon the front or turned up part, which is of kerseymere. Put a silk, calico, or muslin lining into the head, and a silk tassel at the left corner of the square; a satin rosette in front, and strings complete the cap.

BOY’S CAP OF FIVE OR SIX YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 40, 41, 42, 43.

This cap is made of cloth or Holland; the crown, Fig. 41, is fourteen nails long, and three nails deep; the band, Fig. 42, is eight nails long, and half a nail broad; the brim or edge, Fig. 43, is eleven nails long, and one nail deep.

In making up, the crown, Fig. 41, is wadded and lined, it is then gathered evenly into the band on one side, and into the small circular patch or button on the other; the band, Fig. 42, is lined with flannel as well as calico; the brim, which is wadded and lined, has a piece of buckram put within the lining, it is sewed on so as to turn up and set rather round. A tassel or bow of ribbon may or may not be added at the top, according to pleasure.

CAP FOR A BOY SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 44, 45, 46, 47.

This looks neat made of Holland, with a piping of dark blue, green, or the same colour.

The top of the crown is in eight pieces, cut out of a circle, five nails across; this will make each division two nails and a half long, and two nails at the broadest part, sloped to a point, and the shape of Fig. 46. The side of the crown is in four pieces, Fig. 47; to cut these, make another circle the same size as the top, and in the centre of it cut a smaller one, two nails across, then divide the circle into four parts. The band is about one nail broad, when made up, and nine nails long, before it is joined at the ends.

In making up, sew the eight pieces together, laying a coloured piping between them, and putting a button at the top; the four sides, Fig. 47, being previously lined with buckram, demet, and glazed calico, are then each sewed to the circle thus formed, one of the sides fitting to two of the smaller pieces at the top; they must be sewed on the wrong side very firmly, and turned down, so that the stitches are not seen on the outside, the ends of these four pieces being piped, are then sewed together. The cap is now ready for the band, which, after being wadded, is stitched on, and the whole is finished.

CAP FOR A BOY, SIX OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 48, 49, 50.

This is a simple cap and easily made; it consists merely of two pieces.

The crown is a circle of eight nails across, lined and wadded, which is equally gathered all round, and set into a band, which is one nail and a half deep, and nine or ten nails long before it is joined up, Fig. 50: this band is also wadded, and a bow of ribbon may be put on one side.

CAP FOR AN OLDER BOY.

PLATE 19. FIG. 53, 54, 55, 56.

This is a remarkably neat cap, and may be worn by either a boy or a man; it is generally made of cloth.

The circle at the top is five nails across, the side part is cut out of a circle in the same manner as that of Fig. 45, the outer circle being five nails across, and the inner one two nails; this circle is divided into four pieces; the band, Fig. 56, is one nail and a quarter broad, and eleven nails long before it is sewed up; the peak, Fig 55, is generally made of patent leather; it is part of a circle, five nails across, and is one nail and a quarter deep at the broadest part.

In making up, the circle is first lined with flannel and then with silk; it is stretched over a strong but not very thick wire at the edge, to keep it in shape, and a piping of cloth put on all round: the sides, Fig. 54, are then lined with soft leather, and sewed to the circle on the wrong side, before being joined together; the seams are next sewed up, and a thin hoop of whalebone put at the bottom of these sides, just where the band is to be joined on, round the head; the band is firmly stitched to it, which band is also lined with thin, but not very pliable leather: the peak is then put on; a lining of leather one nail and a quarter deep is sewed in the inside, to the inner part of which, a piece of silk is attached, with a string-case and cord to draw it up to the size of the head. Sometimes a band of black velvet, or of silver or gold lace is laid upon the cloth one, sometimes it is left quite plain. The strap under the chin is of patent leather, fastened at the side with a small buckle.

GENTLEMEN’S TRAVELLING CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 57, 58.

This is a particularly comfortable cap, and is easily made. It is composed of fine cloth of any dark colour, trimmed with fur.

Make a circle, seven nails across, and cut it into six parts; the brim is made either of patent leather, or of cloth, it must be three nails and a half long at the straight part or bottom of it, one and three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part, and rounded off at each end: the flaps or pieces for the ears are also one and three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part; they are cut in one length with the band, which goes behind the cap, and is one nail deep; the whole length, including the ear-flaps, is seven nails.

In making up, first join with a piping of the same, all the six divisions of the crown, fastening them at the top with a round button, and put in a lining of wadding, stiffened muslin, and any dark coloured silk; sew all these round the edge, and then put on the brim or peak: this, when of cloth, is made of two pieces the same size and shape; run them together at the edge on the wrong side, with a piping between them, turn them to the right side, put in a piece of stiff muslin, and a thin wadding, sew it on to the front of the cap at the edge, and again half a nail above, so that, though it can be pulled down over the eyes, it usually remains turned up, as in Fig. 57: the band behind, with the ear-flaps, is then sewed on; this is a piece of cloth, with a strip of dark fur or velvet laid on it, so that when the strings of the ear-flaps are tied under the chin, the fur lies against the throat and ears, and when not required, the strings are tied on the top of the head, the velvet or fur forming a kind of trimming to the cap.

A LADY’S RIDING CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 59.

This is made of velvet, and is simply a straight piece, a yard long and about eight nails deep, lined with flannel or wadding, buckram and silk, which is joined up at the two ends, and gathered on the one side, under a small flat silk or gold button, and on the other, into a velvet band, one nail deep, and made to fit the head. A silk bow and tassel (see Fig. 51) are put on at the top, and ribbon strings fasten under the chin, or not, according to pleasure.

A TRAVELLING CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 60.

This is a soft cap, and is generally made of cloth. It is formed of a circle, eight nails across, cut in eight parts, which are joined with pipings of the same, and fastened at the top with a knot or tassel. The crown is lined in a similar manner to Fig. 58, and the band, which must have buckram within the lining of silk or soft leather, is firmly stitched to it.

A NEAT BOY’S CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 61.

This is made of cloth or Holland. The top is a circle of five nails across, the head-piece is nine nails long, and one nail and a half deep when made up, it is plaited in very small exact folds, and therefore before it is made up, it must be four nails and a half broad: the brim or peak is of patent leather, and the strap under the chin of the same.

In making up, the top or crown must be wadded, stiffened with buckram, and lined: the head-piece is then prepared, by being folded, and the folds stitched upon a piece of stiff buckram, the proper length: the crown is sewed to it, the peak and strap put on, as in the Plate.

A TRAVELLING CAP FOR GENTLEMEN OR LADIES.

PLATE 19. FIG. 62, 63.

This is a very simple, and at the same time, a very good looking cap: it is made either of velvet, or of fine cloth, and when doubled, as in Fig. 62, forms nearly a square.

To make it, put in a wadding and lining, join it up behind, A B, make a string-case, A C, through which a silk cord must be run, which draws it up to the shape of a cap, and trim it round the edge or brim with some rich fur. The advantage of the string-case at the top is, that when not in use, it will pack quite flatly and take up little room.

THE WORKING MAN’S CAP.

PLATE 19. FIG. 64, 65, 66.

Fold a sheet of common brown paper to make a workman’s cap, as follows:—

Let it be a square of ten nails, double it across like a half-handkerchief, and crease it well; open it and cross it again the other way, open it again, double down the middle one way, and crease it well; on spreading it out, it will be marked according to the lines in Fig. 65. Measure from the centre on the cross lines, about one nail and three-quarters (see A B C D), next crease the paper from side to side through these points, thus:—one line through A B, another through C D, and again C A, and D B; this will form a square in the middle. Cut out a nail square at every corner, as in Fig. 66.

In folding it up, the square, A B C D, in the centre, forms the top of the cap, and the points, E F, are doubled according to the crosswise plait, and crossed in front towards each other, the other points, G H, are likewise crossed behind towards their opposite ends. The cap is then formed by merely turning up a piece all round to make it stand firmly. (Fig. 64.)

WOMEN’S BONNETS.

PLATE 20.

Bonnets being, like gowns, dependent in a great measure on the fancy and whim of the day, will only be treated of as to the general modes of making them up, and a few of the very plainest shapes given.

Bonnets are made of velvet, plush, satin, silk, crape, book-muslin, chip, gingham, and glazed calico.

The foundations are either pasteboard, buckram, stiff muslin, or willow.

Bonnets are kept in shape by means of wire, chip, or whalebone.

They are lined either with the material of which the bonnet is made, or with some other, lighter or warmer, according to taste, and the time of the year; but care must be taken that the colours either harmonize or decidedly contrast. When the lining is white, a sheet of tissue paper is put between it and the bonnet, whether it be of silk, or only of straw; this makes the white material, whatever it may be, look a much purer colour than it otherwise would do. A piece of demet or of thin wadding should always be laid between the foundation and the silk, or other material of which it is made, unless that material is very thick.

Bonnets may be lined with ribbon in the following manner:—

Take a piece similar to the trimming, and long enough to be run plainly to the outer edge of the bonnet all round, the other side of the ribbon is finely gathered, and being drawn up to the size of the inside of the bonnet, it is neatly sewed to it, forming a kind of border or trimming.

When a bonnet is lined plainly, or the cross-way, it takes half a yard cut crosswise. If a curtain is required in addition, three-quarters of a yard, cut the straight way, must be purchased.

In fitting your lining, lay it across the bonnet, so that as little as possible is wasted or cut off at the corner; put small pins all round the edge, and the inside also, so as to keep it in its place, cutting off the superfluous quantity and then sew it, concealing your stitches as much as possible between the lining and the bonnet.

To line a bonnet the straight way, so that, though plain at the edge, it is a little fulled or plaited into the crown, about three-quarters of a yard is required, influenced of course in some degree, both by the depth of the poke and its width. This lining is very easily put in; sew it round the edge on the wrong side as far as the ears or rounded part of the bonnet, by which means the stitches are quite concealed, then turn it, and sew the rest as neatly as you can; the lining looks the best plaited into the crown; to do this equally, begin in the middle, making a perfectly straight fold, the rest on each side should incline a little to the centre, and be very small and regular.

Bonnets may be trimmed in a great variety of ways with the material of which they are made, cut crosswise and either hemmed or lined, so as to form a kind of ribbon, with velvet, plush, satin, silk, crape, gauze, muslin, or ribbon.

[Illustration: PLATE 20.

Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23

Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 25

Fig. 7 Fig. 8 9 Fig. 9 Fig. 24 Fig. 26

Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 27 Fig. 28

Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31

Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 16 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 36

Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 35 Fig. 40 Fig. 41

Fig. 45 Fig. 49 Fig. 51 Fig. 52 Fig. 39

Fig. 42 Fig. 46 Fig. 48 Fig. 53

Fig. 43 Fig. 44 Fig. 47 Fig. 50 Fig. 54]

Bows to be worn in front, or at the side, are generally made up and sewed upon a piece of wire ribbon, which gives them firmness, and makes them keep in their place and shape.

Velvet or plush trimmings are generally lined with satin or silk of the same shade. The colour of the ribbon, if not an exact match with that of the bonnet, should be darker.

Curtains may be made either of the material that lines the bonnet or ribbon. For the former, the silk or satin is cut the cross-way, and is from one nail and a half to two nails deep; it is hemmed at the edge, and sometimes a straw plait or silk cord is laid on above the hem; they may be either plaited on to the bonnet in large full plaits, or hemmed, and a piece of ribbon, exactly the length that the curtain is to be, run in; this looks better than the plaiting, and does not so soon become flattened.

Ribbon curtains are made in two ways, the one by merely plaiting or gathering a straight piece of ribbon, and hemming the ends; the other, and much the prettiest method, is also the most complicated. Fold the end of your ribbon down like a half-handkerchief, Fig. 13, and cut it off, thus leaving a cross-way end; fold it again, straight down the ribbon, measuring it so as to be doubled the same depth top and bottom, thus forming a piece like Fig. 14: cut off a number of these pieces, which must then be run very flatly together, so that the cross-way parts of the ribbon are at the top and bottom, and the border or edge lies in oblique or slanting lines across the curtain, Fig. 15, 16; one end will be pointed or sloped outwards, in order to make the other like it, the half square cut off at first, must be joined to it. The number of pieces of course must depend on the breadth of the ribbon, the whole curtain should be about three-quarters of a yard long; when the parts are joined together, hem your curtain top and bottom, running a ribbon in at the top, in order to full it properly to the bonnet.

OLD WOMAN’S BONNET.

PLATE 20. FIG. 1, 2, 3.

This is a comfortable shape for an old woman, and is very easily made. It is in two pieces, the front or poke is made of pasteboard, covered with silk or any dark coloured material. To cut the pattern of it, take a piece of paper, four nails and a half square when folded (see Fig. 2), let D be the doubled part, and round it off gradually at the corner, A. The crown is cut out according to Fig. 3.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From B to C the doubled part | 8 | | From B to G | 8½ | | From G to F | 2 | | From F to E | 4 | | Then slope gradually to C from E | | +----------------------------------+--------+ */

In making up, having previously cut out two pieces the proper size to cover the poke, one for the outside, and one for the lining, run them together on the wrong side, round that part which is to form the edge of the bonnet, leaving open that which is to be sewed to the crown, and slip the pasteboard into it: then begin the crown, Fig. 3, hem it at the bottom and make a runner from F E to H, and another, one nail or one nail and half above it, and put in a string; set the front of the crown, C E, on to the poke, either in gathers or small plaits, draw up the runners behind to the proper size to fit the head, and fasten them; sew each end of the curtain a little way on the ends of the poke as in the Plate; put a ribbon on across the front, and strings, with a bow at the top; one may be added behind, at pleasure.

BONNET FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 4, 5, 6.

These bonnets are made of black, white, grey, or fawn coloured silk. They are cut out as follows:—

For the pattern of the poke, Fig. 6, let your paper be doubled at D, which part must be four nails and a half long; from A to B is three nails and three-quarters; slope off the front at the corner. For the crown, Fig. 5, let the doubled part, D, be eight nails long, and from C to E is four nails and a half; it is gradually sloped from F, as in the Plate.

In making up, run the pieces cut for the outside and lining together at the edge, on the wrong side, and having turned them, slip in the pasteboard; plait the front of the crown into the poke in very small exact folds, leaving it quite plain for some distance above the ears; make a narrow runner behind of one nail and a half in depth, to form a curtain, and put on ribbon strings the same colour as the bonnet.

A NEAT BONNET FOR A SERVANT.

PLATE 20. FIG. 7, 8, 9.

To cut out the poke of this bonnet, Fig. 8, which is of pasteboard, take a doubled piece of paper, five nails wide, by four nails and a half long, letting D be the doubled part.

SCALE.

+-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | 2 | | From A to F | 1 | | From the corner to E | 3 | | Above the corner to C | 2¼ | +-----------------------+--------+ */

Curve from B to C, slope from C to E, round from E to F.

The foundation of the crown, Fig. 9, is of buckram, or willow; let your doubled paper be three nails and a half wide, by four nails and a quarter long; D is the doubled part.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From the corner to C | 2¾ | | From the corner to H | 2¼ | | From the corner to I | 1½ | | J above the corner | 1 | +----------------------+--------+ */

Curve from G to H, cut from H to I, and from I to J.

The circular top or patch, is cut to fit the bonnet.

In making up, cover each part with silk, laying a thin piece of wadding between the silk and the foundation, then sew them very firmly together, with strong silk or waxed thread, and put a Persian or muslin lining in the crown. Silk cut the cross-way and laid in moderate sized plaits may be folded round the crown of the bonnet, which has a very neat appearance. The more simply it is trimmed, the better it looks; a ribbon across, to form strings, and one bow behind or at the side, is quite sufficient.

A SCHOOL GIRL’S BONNET.

PLATE 20. FIG. 10, 11, 12.

To cut out the poke, Fig. 11, when laid open, let your paper be eight nails wide, by seven long.

SCALE.

+-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to S is | 3¾ | | From S to B | 2½ | | From T to C | 4 | | Above the corner to E | 1½ | | From the side to F | 1 | | From the top to F | 2¼ | | From Z to Y | 3½ | +-----------------------+--------+ */

Cut from F to E, round from F to C, and from C, through Y, and B, to A, curve A Z F.

The crown or head-piece, Fig. 12, is thus formed; let your paper be six nails wide, by seven nails and a half long.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From H to G | 2¼ | | From the corner to G | ¾ | | From the corner to K | 2½ | | J is from the corner | 1 | | From the corner to I | 2 | +----------------------+--------+ */

Slope G to K, shape according to the Plate from K to J, cut from J to I, curve from I to H.

The top or circle is cut exactly to fit this crown.

This bonnet is made of glazed calico; the poke is of pasteboard. If many of them are required, it is the best economy to cut out all the pokes at once, and then all the crowns, as they will fit into each other. Make it up as follows:—

After joining the two ends of the head-piece, wire and sew the circle into it, then tack the calico on the crown or circle; then tack a piece of calico outside the head-piece, piping it up the joinings; run on the lining of the poke, after which the outside cover is put on and tacked strongly at the edge; the trimming will conceal the stitches; sew the trimming, which is merely a cross-way hem one nail deep and piped to the inside of the edge of the poke with small stitches, then turn it over on the outside and sew it neatly down to the upper calico, taking care not to go through the pasteboard. Fasten the poke to the crown, and then put in the lining, making it to draw, and sewing it on the inside. The trimming, piping and bow, are all cut the cross-way; the strings are half a yard long, cut straight. One bonnet takes one sheet of 3_d._ pasteboard, and about one yard and a half of 4_d._ glazed calico, including the trimming; with the wire it comes to 9_d._ prime cost.

For winter wear, it is desirable to line both poke and crown with wadding or flannel.

A neat simple trimming for children’s bonnets, is made as follows:—

Cut strips of glazed calico, one nail wide, fold them so that the raw edges shall lie at the back; making each strip somewhat less than half a nail broad, and then with a long needleful of coloured thread, run on the right side of it, up and down in vandykes; when done, draw it up, and it forms a pretty sort of edging.

OILED SILK HOODS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 17, 18.

These hoods are convenient for persons who travel much, or go excursions in open carriages, as a protection against rain; they are made of oiled silk, either black, or light coloured, the former looks best.

The shape is very simple, the hood consisting of four parts: the front is a straight piece, one yard long, and six nails and a half broad. The horse-shoe, Fig. 18, which is rather a different shape to the usual one, is six nails and a half long, four nails wide at the top, and five nails at the bottom; the curtain or tippet is half a yard deep, and one yard and three-quarters long; the band is one nail broad, ten nails long.

In making up, the head-piece is run to the horse-shoe quite plainly, and the front, or part round the face is hemmed or bound; it is then set into the band, the horse-shoe being plainly put in, and the rest plaited in small folds; the curtain is sewed on in small plaits all round, the band lined with silk or ribbon, and a large hook and eye or chain is put on. The curtain is either hemmed or bound all round.

CALÈCHE.

PLATE 20. FIG. 19, 20.

These are worn by ladies who walk short distances to evening parties, and are better than a bonnet as they do not crush or disturb the cap or head dress.

A calèche is best made of dark silk or satin, and lined with the same colour; it is in three parts. The front, or head-piece, is seven nails and a half wide, and one yard long; the horse-shoe, Fig. 19, is five nails and a half long by four nails and a half broad, at the widest part, sloped down to four nails at the bottom; the curtain is one yard and a quarter long, and one nail and a half deep. A lining is cut out exactly similar to the outside; and it is made up as follows:—

Run the edges of the head-piece and lining together on the wrong side, and turn them, put in a piece of whalebone the whole length of the front, viz:—one yard, about half a quarter of a nail broad, and run on the other side of it, to secure it, leave a space of one nail and a half broad, and make a runner the proper width to receive a second whalebone, and then, leaving the same distances, make runners for two more; the spaces between are quilted, as in the Plate, to give a little firmness to the whole.

Between the fourth whalebone and the outer edge is an interval of two nails and a half, and this is not quilted like the rest. The horse-shoe is then made, the outside and lining being run together, a whalebone is put in, (see Fig. 19), at the edge, and again another, one nail within. The head-piece is then gathered (the rough edges of both the satin and lining being turned within, so as to make it perfectly neat at the inside), and sewed to the horse-shoe, the fulness being chiefly towards the top. It is then gathered at the neck, and bound with ribbon, or a piece of the same material, which form a string-case; and the curtain is set on, lined or not, according to pleasure. A ribbon, about one yard long, is sewn on the front of the calèche, three nails from the bottom on each side, forming a kind of loop, by which to hold it forward when it is worn.

CLOAKS.

PLATE 20.

Cloaks may be made of satin, silk, cloth, merino, shawling, both the real and the imitation, Scotch-plaid, Orleans or common stuff. The choice of materials is of course influenced by the purpose for which the cloak is intended to be used; for instance, carriage or travelling cloaks are plain of a thicker substance, and have less work in them than those used for walking in.

Satin cloaks have frequently a velvet cape or collar, sometimes they are trimmed with broad velvet hems, laid on all round, or with fur, and occasionally lined with fur also. Silk and merino cloaks may likewise be trimmed with velvet, cut or uncut, plush or fur, and lined with the same, or they may be made perfectly plain. As a silk cloak is at all times a costly article of dress, and, with care, will last a long time, it is worth while to have the silk a very good one; it should be soft and rich, not liable to crease: levantine, satinette, or satin silk, are the best; and the colour should be one that will not easily fly, change, or spot; dark shades generally look the best, as black, violet, myrtle-green, or deep marone.

Satin, silk, and fine merino cloaks should be lined with sarsenet, either the same colour, or some well chosen contrast: but as these sarsenet linings cost a good deal for a full sized cloak, two old silk gowns, nicely picked to pieces, and either washed or dyed, would be a good substitute, where economy is an object: when this is done, it is a good plan to turn a deep hem of the outside silk over the edge, on each side in front, or it is better still to let the two front breadths of the lining be of new silk.

Cloaks may either be simply lined with a piece of flannel between the silk and the lining, which makes them light and suitable for walking in the autumn and the spring, or they may be lined and wadded; this is done by laying breadths either of thin flannel or lining muslin, cut the same size as the breadths of silk on a table, and placing upon them sheets of wadding, so as to cover them entirely; then with a long needleful of thread, the wadding should be tacked or basted in wide stitches backwards and forwards in sort of vandykes upon the muslin or flannel, in order that it may always keep in its place, which otherwise it would not do. The flannel with the wadding thus sewed to it, is then put between the two silks and the seams run up.

LADY’S SILK CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 21.

It consists of six breadths of silk, the proper length to fit the person for whom it is made, i. e. from the collar-bone to the top of the shoe. Cut a shoulder-piece the shape of Fig. 1, or 4, Plate 13, making it to fit, with flannel and silk lining to suit; next cut a collar, Fig. 7, Plate 13, with a stiff muslin and silk lining; then cut the cape, Fig. 15 and 16, Plate 13, with only a silk lining.

In making up, having laid the lining and wadding together as described above, run up the seams; cut the arm-holes one nail and a half from the seam between the first and second breadths, and two nails and a quarter below the shoulder-piece; each arm-hole is three nails and a quarter long.

The shoulder-piece is next made, by running the silk and lining together, with the wadding and flannel between them on the wrong side, and then turning it to the other; the three back breadths of the skirt are then hollowed out to fit the shoulder-piece, next full the whole into the shoulder-piece, letting the two front breadths, reach to the shoulder only, while the rest is sewed to the back. A hem one nail and three-quarters deep of cross-way velvet, cut or uncut, or an edging of fur may be put on, up the fronts according to pleasure. The back is then plaited in behind, at a proper distance below the shoulder-piece, to suit the waist, say four nails, and a band long enough to go round the waist is laid upon these folds, and drawn through two large button-holes, one at each end of the plaiting; this band hooks or buttons in front, inside the cloak. Another way of confining it at the waist, is, by laying a ribbon along the inside of the back breadth, at the proper distance from the top, thus forming a kind of string-case, through which two ribbons are passed, fastened at one end, and drawn out at the other, of the runner; these ribbons tie round the waist at the inside. The collar having previously been lined, is then set on, and small pieces, three nails and a quarter long and half a nail broad, are lined, piped all round, and sewed on one side of each arm-hole, so as to lay over and cover it when the arms are not in. The cloak is fastened at the throat either by long silk cords the same colour, with tassels at the ends, or by a gilt or bronze chain.

The capes of these cloaks are frequently made loose from them, in which case they may be worn separately as mantles or short cloaks; when they are fastened on, they are sewed to the shoulder-piece.

LADY’S MANTELET OR SHORT CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 22.

These are made of velvet, satin, silk, cloth, merino or shawling; they are lined with silk, muslin, or glazed calico, and trimmed with lace, fringe, velvet, satin or fur; they are very convenient and light for walking, or going out in an evening. A mantelet reaches to a little above the knee, and fastens in the front with hooks and eyes; it is made exactly like the cape of a large cloak, with five breadths in it, a little hollowed round the neck, and set into a band, or a collar turned over.

LARGE CARRIAGE CLOAK OR ROQUELAURE.

PLATE 20. FIG. 23.

Used by ladies in an open carriage, to put on in case of rain. It is made of plaid or some woollen material, and consists of five breadths of eleven nails wide, and one yard and a half long; two arm-holes are made five nails from the top of the cloak, and five nails long, to these arm-holes are sewed loose sleeves, eight nails long, and four nails wide, when sewed up; they are merely attached to the cloak by being sewed to the top of the arm-hole, so that they may be put on, or left to hang down at pleasure. The cloak is lined with flannel and glazed calico, or calimanco, it is set into a band at the neck, of about ten nails long, and a collar and one or more deep capes put on. It fastens at the throat with a gilt or bronze chain.

LADY’S NEAT GARDEN OR SERVANT’S CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 24.

This may be made either of merino or Scotch-plaid; if the former, it has three breadths in it, of seventeen nails wide; if the latter, it requires five breadths, eleven nails wide.

The shoulder-piece is like Fig. 3 or 4, Plate 13; it is lined and wadded, as are also two capes the same shape as the shoulder-piece cut larger; the collar is like Fig. 7, Plate 13. The whole cloak is lined with black or coloured glazed calico; arm-holes are left between the first and second breadths; they are four nails long, and three nails and a half from the bottom of the shoulder-piece; a small piece of the material, four nails long and three-quarters of a nail wide, lined and piped all round, is set on along each slit or arm-hole.

These cloaks can be purchased ready-made at the mercer’s shop, and are from 9s. to 18s. each.

OLD WOMAN’S CLOAK AND HOOD.

PLATE 20. FIG. 25, 27.

These are generally made of scarlet cloth, or grey duffel, and have only one breadth in them. The cloth is about three yards wide, and it is cut as follows:—

The width of the cloak is made in that of the material, therefore, when the proper length for the cloak is cut off the piece (say one yard and eight nails), it is doubled exactly in half the width, and then the selvages being laid together, they are sloped off at the top, perhaps from four to five nails gradually to about four nails above the bottom; the two corners in front are also rounded off at the bottom, so that a great part of it, as well as the two fronts are slightly on the cross, which renders binding or hemming not absolutely necessary, though the cloak looks much better when finished with a neat binding of scarlet or black ribbon; the top is set into a band the proper length to go round the neck, and a few plaits are made.

When two cloaks are cut out together, which is the most economical plan, the hoods will come out of the sloping at the neck, but this cannot be, if there is only one.

The hood is very simple, and is thus formed. Cut a paper pattern of half the hood, exactly like Fig. 27, and lay it on the cloth, taking care that D is upon the doubled part of it. In making it up, it is gathered or plaited from the top, or doubled part to A; the rest to B, is simply sewed up; B to C, is the part attached to the cloak, and the front, or what goes round the face, is neatly bound with ribbon. These hoods may be lined or not, at pleasure.

SCHOOL GIRL’S CAPE OR CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 26.

These are made of plaid or other stuff, lined with flannel and calico, and are good things for school girls to wear at church and elsewhere.

SCALE.

+---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ | ———————— | 1st. | 2nd. | 3rd. | 4th. | | | Size | Size | Size | Size | +---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ | |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| |Usual width of plaid | 11 | 12 | | | |Number of breadths | 2½ | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Depth to be cut down the selvage | 8 | 10 | 12 | 13 | |Collar like Fig. 7, Plate 13, | | | | | | cut according to size | | | | | +---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ */

The skirt of the cloak having been lined with coarse flannel and glazed calico, and the shoulder-piece being piped all round with a pretty thick piping, the skirt is plaited evenly to the shoulder-piece in handsome plaits, and the flannel being laid against it, the calico linings are neatly felled down over the plaits, so as to hide the rough edges; the collar, lined also with flannel and calico, is sewed on, and a piece of tape or strong calico laid upon the part where it joins the shoulder-piece at the top. A button is put on at the throat, on the right hand side, and another, four nails below, and small squares of plaid doubled, with each a button-hole made in them, put to correspond on the other side.

By lengthening the skirt, this would make a very suitable cloak for a woman.

A more economical cloak, of this pattern, may be made of green baize; without a collar, it costs very little, but of course it does not wear nearly so well as the plaid ones.

BOY’S CLOAK.

A cloak or deep cape for a boy, may be made very simply as follows:—

Cut a large circle of cloth or plaid, the size you wish the cloak to be, and in the centre of it, make a smaller circle for the neck; cut from this small circle to the edge in a straight line, which will form the opening in front. Gather or plait the neck into a broad band, and it is completed. A cloak thus made will hang in full handsome folds, and be very warm.

SHAWLS.

Shawls may be made of various materials, velvet, plush, silk, cloth, duffel, plaid, or printed flannel, and they may either be square or in the form of a half-handkerchief; they are variously lined and trimmed, according to taste and circumstances.

CARRIAGE OR DRESS SHAWL.

This is either velvet, plush, or satin, and is half a square of one yard, twelve nails, or less, to suit the figure of the person, and the width of the material. It is lined with white or coloured sarsenet, and trimmed at the edge of the two straight sides, with a satin or silk hem, from one to one nail and a half deep, cut crosswise, lace, fringe, or fur.

LADY’S WALKING SHAWL.

Silk, cloth, or merino, are equally appropriate for this purpose. It may either be a square of one yard, twelve nails, or half of it, and is lined with silk. When the whole square is preferred, and when a hem of velvet, satin, or silk is laid on, care must be taken to arrange it so that when the shawl is doubled handkerchief-wise, the hems of both folds shall be seen at the same time, one lying nearly over the other, for which purpose, after laying the border on two successive sides of the square, turn your shawl over before sewing the border of the remaining two sides on. Thus half the trimming is on one, and half on the other side of the shawl.

These shawls, like the one mentioned above, may be trimmed in various ways.

SHAWL FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.

This is a square of about one yard, twelve nails, and is made either of fine white, or very pale drab, grey, or other quiet coloured cloth, with a satin ribbon, the same shade and one nail broad, laid on all round it. It may be lined or not, according to pleasure.

QUILTED SHAWL.

This is half a square of silk of about one yard, twelve nails, and has a very neat appearance, besides being both light and warm. It is thus made:—

Lay wadding, demet, or flannel between the outside silk and the lining, which should be either white or some pretty suitable colour: it must then be run in three or four rows round the edge, and the middle quilted in diamonds, or any other pattern, according to taste.

CASHMERE SHAWL.

Purchase a piece of coloured Cashmere or Indiana, one yard, six nails square, to form the centre of the shawl, and make a very narrow hem all round it; then take shawl bordering, or four strips of Cashmere of some other colour, which will harmonize, or contrast well with the centre; these should be from two to three nails broad, and one yard, twelve nails long; they are likewise hemmed on both sides, and then sewed to the square; the corners are joined obliquely, or from point to point. A fringe should be set on all round. This coloured border must be put on, so that when the shawl is worn, the two corners shall fall properly over each other, as described in the “Lady’s Walking Shawl.” Coloured gimp is sometimes laid on over the joinings.

MOURNING SHAWLS.

These may be made in two ways, according to the depth of the mourning. The first and deepest kind is half a square of black silk, entirely covered with black crape, and lined with black sarsenet.

The other is also a half square of rich, but not very bright black silk, with a hem of crape from one to two nails deep, laid on the two straight sides.

PLAIN WALKING SHAWL.

This may be made of plaid, printed flannel, or duffel, and is suitable for ladies, children, and servants.

Cut half a square of the proper size, line it with silk, or calico, and run it at about one nail from the edge, on the two straight sides, so as to keep it flat, and make a sort of hem: this shawl is made to fit the neck, for this end, instead of hollowing it out, run on the cross-way part in the centre, a little string-case, in a semi-circular form, and by passing a ribbon through, it is drawn up to fit the neck, making a sort of frill or standing up collar. This shawl is plaited in at the bottom of the waist, and strings, or a band sewed on at the inside.

Arm-holes may also be made in it at pleasure.

TRAVELLING SHAWL.

A warm shawl or handkerchief for travelling, may be made of a square of wadding doubled in half, and covered with silk or muslin.

SPENCERS.

PLATE 20.

Spencers are made of silk, cloth, muslin, and print, and are worn with low frocks, by children, to walk out in.

PLAIN SPENCER.

PLATE 20. FIG. 28, 29.

From its simplicity, this is suited to very young children, as well as to school girls, or young servants.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+ | ———————— | 1st. |Child of | | | Size. |4 years. | +-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | |Length of the body, | | | | cut width-wise of the material | 12 | 15 | |Depth of ditto, cut selvage-wise | 3 | 3½ | |When doubled in four, cut for shoulder | 1 | 1½ | |Depth of arm-hole | 1¼ | 1½ | |Arm-hole cut into the stuff | ½ | ½ | |Width of sleeve | 4 | 6 | |Length of ditto | 4 | 6 | |Neck hollowed out | ¼ | ¼ | |Length of band or collar | 6 | 6 | |Depth of ditto | 1 | 1 | +-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+ | ———————— |Child of| Girl of | | |6 years.| 12 yrs. | +-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+ | | Nails. |Yds. nls.| |Length of the body, | 16 | 1 5 | | cut width-wise of the material | 16 | 1 5 | |Depth of ditto, cut selvage-wise | 4 | 5 | |When doubled in four, cut for shoulder | 2 | 2 | |Depth of arm-hole | 1¾ | 2¼ | |Arm-hole cut into the stuff | ¾ | ¾ | |Width of sleeve | 8 | 8 | |Length of ditto | 8 | 10 | |Neck hollowed out | ½ | ½ | |Length of band or collar | 8 | 9 | |Depth of ditto | 1½ | 2 | +-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+

In making, sew up the shoulders, make up the sleeves, and set them in, a little fulled at the top. Make a string-case at the wrist at about half or three-quarters of a nail from the bottom of the sleeve, which, when drawn, forms a frill. Gather it equally into the band or collar; for stout children, small gussets may be put in the neck. It is either hemmed or set into a band at the bottom; sometimes a frill is sewed on round the waist, sometimes the spencer is cut one nail longer to admit of a runner being put one nail above the bottom, so as to form a frill.

DRESS SPENCER.

PLATE 20. FIG. 30, 31.

This is a very pretty shape for ladies’ children, but as it must be cut out to fit the figure, only one size, for a child from two to four years old, will be given. It may be made of kerseymere, cloth, cambric, or jaconet muslin.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+ | | Yds. nls. | |Length of body, width-way of the material | 1 0 | |Depth of body cut down the selvage | 2 | |When doubled in four, slit for the arm-hole | 2 | |Cut into the material for the arm-hole | ¾ | |For collar, see Plate 13, Fig. 17 | | |For sleeves, see Plate 12, Fig. 1 | | |Length of band | 10 | |Depth of ditto | 1 | |Length of robing, from the back over the shoulder | | | to the front | 12 | |Smallest width of ditto | ½ | |Greatest width of ditto | 2 | |For shoulder-piece, see Plate 13, Fig. 5 | | +--------------------------------------------------+-----------+

In making up, supposing the spencer to be of cambric muslin, sew a piece of strong insertion-work to the backs and front of the shoulder-piece, simply hemming that part of it which goes over the shoulder; full the body evenly into the insertion-work, both before and behind, leaving it perfectly plain under the arm-holes; the sleeve is next gathered into the shoulder-piece, and sewed plainly into the arm-hole; the body is next fulled into the band. In the band, on each side behind, is a little runner of about two nails from the ends, through which a bobbin is run, which comes out through an oylet-hole, at about a quarter of a nail from the end; it fastens also with a button or with hooks and eyes: up the backs of both shoulder-pieces and body a broad hem is made, in which are buttons and button-holes to correspond. The robings are next put on, a little fulled at the back and front, and a good deal over the shoulders: the robing at the back is sewed immediately below the insertion-work; it is one nail and a half deep, which increases to its fullest breadth over the shoulders, and is gradually narrowed off again to the band in front. The collar, which is trimmed with neat work or a frill, is then set on. The sleeves are made and put in.

TIPPET AND SLEEVES.

PLATE 20. FIG. 32, 33, 34, 35.

These are very convenient for children to wear in the summer, as they are easily put off and on. They are made of jaconet or cambric muslin, gingham, or print, to suit the frock.

To cut the front, Fig. 33, let your paper be five nails and three-quarters long, and three nails and three-quarters wide, when folded in two. D is the doubled part.

SCALE.

+-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From the corner to L | 2 | | Above the corner to T | 1 | | From the side to V | ½ | | From the top to V | ¾ | | From the corner to S | 1¾ | | From S to Z | 1½ | | From Z to N | ¾ | +-----------------------+--------+

Curve from L to T, again from T to V; cut from V to S; slope from S to N. The part marked N, is for the neck; S V, for the shoulder; V T, the flap or shoulder-piece.

For the back, Fig. 35, let your paper be three nails wide and four nails long.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From the bottom to A | 1¼ | | From B to C | ¾ | | From C to F | 2 | | Leaving to G | 1 | | From H to K | 1 | +----------------------+--------+

Cut from H to A; slope from A to B; cut from B to F; curve from F to half a nail below G; N is the neck; S the shoulder.

For the little flap or shoulder-piece, Fig. 32, take a piece of paper, letting it be one nail and three-quarters long, when doubled, and one nail and a half deep; at the opposite side to the doubled part, mark the point A one quarter of a nail from the side, and one-third of a nail from the bottom; cut in a straight line from the top to A, and slope gradually from A to the bottom.

In making up, sew the shoulders of the two backs to those of the front, set in the two shoulder-flaps, fulling them in the middle, gather the front into the space of one nail, setting it into a band, which is about one-third of a nail, when doubled, and nine nails long, made to button behind; the backs are also gathered, and sewed to the band at each end, at a proper distance, say about three nails from the middle. The Plate represents the tippet as if the sides were not attached to the band, observe, however, that the bottom, A, is to be sewed to the part marked B, of the band. On the top of the tippet is set a collar, according to fancy; Fig. 19, Plate 13, is that generally preferred. Sleeves cut according to Fig. 1, Plate 12, are then made; they are set into a band at the top, and then sewed on to the fullest part or middle, under the flap, for the space of half a nail.

These tippets may be trimmed with braid, if made of cloth or kerseymere; when they are of muslin, with narrow work or edging.

NECK HANDKERCHIEFS.

Many persons wear net or muslin handkerchiefs within their dress, and under the collar or habit-shirt, and for those liable to be soon heated, or who are engaged in warm or dusty employments, it is a particularly good plan to do so, especially if the dress is not of a washing material, as it keeps the body clean and nice much longer than it otherwise could be. Elderly persons should always wear these handkerchiefs, as there is something delicate and cleanly in their having what will wash next the skin.

Muslin handkerchiefs may be purchased, woven for the purpose, with borders, at from about 6_d._ to 2_s._, but the cheap ones are not worth buying, they soon tear in the washing, and look thick and cottony; the fine ones are so costly that it is better economy to have squares of muslin cut from the piece; these, like the bordered ones, may either be worn double, or the square may be cut in two, which most people prefer. The muslin should be yard wide, not very coarse, nor yet extremely fine, if wanted for common wear, but a thin transparent muslin should be selected; that which is called India book, having a yellowish white cast, is preferable to the blue muslins, which are apt to look heavy and clothy when washed. Real India muslin is the best, but it is too costly for general wear.

The extreme points of the half square should be cut off, or turned up, which is a good plan for the back, as it makes it stronger; and after hemming the handkerchief all round, a tape is set on behind, to go round the waist and tie in front.

For net handkerchiefs, the best width of the net is from one yard and two nails to one yard and four nails; it should be of a medium fineness, not too close, or it will lose its clearness after washing. In making net handkerchiefs, it is a good plan to run a hem of book muslin, of about half or a quarter of a nail broad, on the two straight sides, which prevents the handkerchief running up in the washing; on the cross side, of course, a narrow hem is made, as the muslin would shew in the wearing, and would look untidy. The points should be cut off, and a tape sewed on behind.

Net handkerchiefs are, on the whole, more economical than muslin, as they wear longer.

POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS.

These are made of French cambric, fine lawn, Scotch cambric, cotton, or silk; the former are chiefly worn by ladies, and the latter by gentlemen; lawn and Scotch cambric are used by young persons and children; cotton handkerchiefs are confined to the working classes.

Ladies’ pocket handkerchiefs are usually eleven or twelve nails square; they are purchased woven on purpose with borders. Sometimes very fine cambric may be procured eleven nails wide, which many persons prefer to the bordered handkerchiefs; these are often made with broad hems, half or three-quarters of a nail deep, and a row of open veining worked at the bottom of the hem, or a narrow edging of lace is sewed all round.

Cambric handkerchiefs for gentlemen are larger than those for ladies, say fourteen or fifteen nails.

Gentlemen’s silk handkerchiefs should be of India silk, and are about 5_s._ 6_d._ each; they are far preferable to British silk, as they are much softer, and keep the dye to the very last. British silk handkerchiefs should be dipped in gall the first time they are washed. Printed cotton handkerchiefs, for poor children, may be bought at a penny and even a halfpenny each.

BRIDAL FAVOURS.

The customs respecting favours and bridal paraphernalia differ so much in different places, that no general rules can be given respecting them.

Sometimes white ribbons, gloves, and handkerchiefs are given, and sometimes only the former. Favours for the higher orders are usually of lace, flowers, silver ribbon, or cord, and those for the middling classes, of satin ribbon; they are worn on the left side. The usual quantity given to servants, both men and women, coachmen, &c. is three yards, which is worn as a trimming for either the cap or bonnet by the women, and made up into very large bows for the men, to pin on their coats.

SHOES AND SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20.

No shoes will be here described but such as are soft, and therefore easily made at home, or those worn by children.

Slippers may be made of velvet, silk, cloth, kerseymere, carpet, wrap-rascal, or frieze, and worked canvass, any of these materials, together with ticking, having a pattern worked on it, may be used for children’s shoes.

Cut a paper pattern of half the shoe, as follows, according to the size required. Fig. 42.

SCALE FOR ALL SIZES.

+-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+ | | Man. | Woman. | Girl of | Child of | | | | | 9 or 10 | 5 or 6 | | | | | yrs. | yrs. | +-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+ | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | |Length of paper | 5¼ | 4¾ | 3½ | 3 | |Width of ditto | 2 | 1¾ | 1¼ | 1⅛ | |Size from A to the bottom| 1¼ | 1⅛ | ⅞ | ⅞ | |Size from B to the bottom| ¾ | ⅔ | ⅜ | ⅜ | |From the side to B | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ | ⅛ | |From the corner to C | 2 | 2 | 1½ | 1½ | |From C to E | 3¼ | 2¾ | 2 | 1½ | |From E to F | 1⅛ | 1 | ⅞ | ¾ | |From F to H | 3 | 2½ | 1⅞ | 1½ | |From H to G | ½ | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ | |From G to I |a bare nl.| ½ | ⅜ | ½ | |From F to the side | ⅛ | ⅛ | ⅛ | ⅛ | +-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+

Cut from I to A, and again from A to B; curve from B to C, cut from F to H; H to G being only a slit; cut off from G to I; from I to A is the doubled part.

MEN’S SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 42.

These may be made of carpet, cloth and frieze, or wrap-rascal.

In cutting them out, the material should be doubled at D; these slippers should be lined with flannel, and either silk or cloth; the linings are tacked to the outside, and the three bound together all round with silk ferreting or binding; the sole is of strong leather or pasteboard, if the latter, it is put between two pieces of carpeting or cloth, as no needle is strong enough to go through it, and the edges of these pieces being bound round, the sole thus formed is attached to the slipper.

It is, however, better in general that men’s slippers should be made by a shoe-maker, as it is hard work for women.

LADIES’ SLIPPERS.

There are many neat and ornamental ways of making ladies’ slippers, or toilette shoes; the following are the most generally approved:—

Canvass, worked in tent or cross-stitch, silk, jean, or print quilted, cloth, or soft leather, braided or embroidered.

Care should be taken that the braid is very fine and flat; gold or silver twist may be sewed at the edge of it, which improves the effect very much.

When made up, these slippers should be lined with flannel, or wadding, and silk, and bound round with silk binding or galloon. A pasteboard sole, put between two pieces of thick cloth, or carpet, is bound round, and sewed to the upper part of the shoe, and a warm lining of flannel, or fleecy hosiery, put upon it, on the inside. A trimming of fur is sewed round the edge.

QUILTED SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 43.

Some of these are made of strong silk, with a silk lining and soft flannel between; they are quilted all over in vandykes, octagons, or diamonds.

Some are made so as to wash, and look very well, if the material is of blue, or any lively coloured print or jean. They should be lined with flannel and good strong calico; the whole is then quilted together, with thread or coloured silk. The initials of the owner may be worked in button-hole or chain-stitch, on the top or side of the slipper; it is slit down in the front, for about three-quarters of a nail, and the two sides of the slit, as well as the whole shoe, bound with ribbon; purple galloon is the best, if it suits the prints, as it washes well.

A string is made to draw from about the middle of each side, which ties in the front.

LADIES’ SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 44, 46, 50.

This slipper is in two parts, the back and the front, which is by some persons considered an advantage, and it certainly enables it to be cut out with more economy.

Fig. 44 represents the back-piece when doubled.

SCALE.

+------------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | Greatest length of back-piece | 6½ | | Shortest length of ditto | 6 | | Width of ditto | 1⅛ | | Depth of front-piece, when doubled | 1¾ | | Width of ditto | 3 | | From A to B | 2½ | | From B to C | ¾ | | From C to the bottom | ¾ | | From F to the side | ½ | | From F to G | 1 | | From H to A | ½ | | From the bottom to E | ¾ | +------------------------------------+--------+

Cut from B to C, from C to E, from E to F, and from G to H.

This shoe is made like those described before, excepting that, being in two pieces, the ends of the back-piece, S S, Fig. 44, are bound as well as the top and bottom of it, and the corresponding parts, E F, of Fig. 46, being bound also, they are sewed together very securely with strong silk.

TRAVELLING OR OVER-SHOES.

These are useful to wear on a journey, or to put over dress shoes, to keep the feet warm in going out to dinner, &c. They are very easily made.

Cut out the shape of the slipper (see Fig. 42), in frieze or wrap-rascal, and also a lining of soft flannel, and of silk; tack the linings to the outside, and then bind them round with silk-ferretting the colour of the wrap-rascal; make a sole of the material, bind it also round, and sew them altogether; then cut out a sole of strong millboard, which must be covered with thick flannel, and as this is too hard for the needle to pass through, it must be tied down within the sole of the slipper, by means of a halfpenny ribbon passed through holes made at the toe and heel, which must be so contrived as to secure it effectually.

LADY OR GENTLEMAN’S HALF SLIPPER.

PLATE 20. FIG. 45.

There is also a manner of making a slipper by merely sewing on a front to a sole, and leaving it without any back-piece at all, as shewn in the Plate.

CARRIAGE SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 49.

These are particularly desirable for invalids, especially on long journies. They consist of a mat, or small rug, either of sheep-skin, or worked in rug stitch; upon this are sewed two large morocco shoes, without soles, which are lined with soft flannel, or fleecy hosiery, and trimmed round the top with fur, the rug itself acting as soles to the slippers, which should be large enough to admit of any person’s foot.

BABY’S FIRST SHOES.

PLATE 20. FIG. 51, 52, 53, 54.

These look very well made of crimson cloth, with soles of black cloth, or they may be of silk or satin, quilted. The shoe is in two parts, each of which is lined with flannel, and bound with crimson ribbon, which is stitched on very neatly; between the cloth and the flannel of the sole, is laid one of pliable leather, to give it a little firmness. The front part, Fig. 51, is first sewed on to the sole (see Fig. 54), after which, the back, Fig. 52, is put on, and being so cut as to overlap the front, oylet-holes are made at A, Fig. 54, and at E, Fig. 52, through which a ribbon is passed, which serves at once to tie the shoe, and to keep the front and back of it together; the sides not being sewed up at all.

BABY’S SECOND SHOES.

PLATE 20. FIG. 47.

This is made of soft velveteen, strong jean, or thick cloth, lined with fine calico. It is cut all in one piece, as follows:—let your paper for the pattern be two nails and a half long, and one deep.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From the top to A | ⅓ | | From the side to A | ¾ | | From the bottom to B | ⅓ | | From the corner to C | ½ | | From the bottom to E | ¾ | | From the side to E | ½ | | From the top to F | ⅓ | | From H to G | 1 | +----------------------+--------+

Lay B A, which is the folded part, on a double piece of the material. Cut from F to G, slope from G to E, curve from E to A, round from C to B, cut from B to A. This shoe should be bound with ribbon; it looks pretty made of drab or grey, and bound with blue or rose colour. A little bow is put on in front, and strings are sewed to the ends of the straps, or passed through oylet-holes made in them, to tie round the ankle, and thus keep the shoe in its place.

BABY’S TICKING SHOE.

PLATE 20. FIG. 50.

This is also in one piece, and makes a pretty variety, it is cut according to the scale given before, and care must be taken in the cutting out to place the ticking on the pattern, so that the stripes lie properly, i. e. straight from the middle or front of the shoe, to the toe. The ticking is then ornamented by being worked in the intervals between the dark stripes, either in herring-bone, or some other fancy stitch, in coloured netting silk, either in one colour, or in two well chosen contrasts, as blue and brown, crimson and dark green. It is then lined all through, bound with ribbon to suit the work, and sewed up behind. The sole is of thick but flexible leather, lined and bound. Oylet-holes are made on each side of the slit in the front, through which a ribbon is laced, to tie it up, and a bow put on at the top of the slit, completes it.

ON COVERING SHOES.

It is sometimes very good economy to cover white or light coloured silk or satin shoes, but it requires great exactness, both in the fitting and sewing the new cover on; black silk or satin is generally found to answer the best, as from its dark colour any inaccuracies are less likely to be observed. The quantity required for covering a full sized pair of lady’s shoes is six nails, cut the straight way.

Lay a piece of soft paper upon your shoe, and cut an exact pattern, divided of course in two parts, the front and the back. Place the pattern upon your satin or silk, so that the material lies the straight way, and so as to economize the satin.

The shoes must be first well rubbed and cleaned with a cloth; the binding should, if possible, be picked off, and every little crack or thin place neatly darned.

When you put the satin on the shoe, begin with the front, and be careful that it lies perfectly straight and even, pin it with small pins very near together, all round the front, next to the sole, keeping your hand in the shoe, so as to fill it out, almost as when the foot is in it; whip or sew it over at the inside round the edge, with a tacking thread, and pretty close stitches; then with a stout needle and strong but not coarse black silk, sew the satin to the shoe, as close to the sole as possible, with small neat stitches, taking very great care not to draw or confine it in any part, for fear of hurting the foot, and trying it on from time to time, to make sure. The back is done in a similar manner, and then a ribbon is laid on up the sides, where the front and back join, and double stitched. The binding is next put on, this must also be neatly back-stitched, and is broad enough to conceal the tacking, or sewing-over threads; you must observe not to hold it in too much, or all your work is wasted; for if the binding is tight, the shoes can never be worn. Small bows and strings complete the whole.

Shoes that have been wetted by sea water, should be washed with soap and water, which prevents their spoiling.

For cleaning white satin shoes, see Receipt, No. 41.

Patent leather shoes should be well rubbed with oil outside, to clean them, and prevent their cracking.

The soles of shoes should be cut straight-wise, as when cut on the cross, they will crack.

GLOVES.

The chief kinds are kid, doe-skin, Berlin, Woodstock, and Limerick. The principal manufactures for the former kinds, are at Worcester, Dundee, and Jersey; the latter take their names from the places where they are made. French gloves are by some preferred to the English make, as they are considered to be more elastic. The Berlin gloves look like Woodstock, and wash and wear beautifully; a little pearl ash in the water makes them look as well as new. Others are made of cotton, silk, and worsted, and woven, net, or knit; for the latter, see “Knit Gloves.”

Cotton gloves are worn by men servants when waiting at table, and are very good for the purpose, as they are easily washed.

It is impossible to give any shapes or scales for gloves; the best plan to get an exact pattern is to pick an old glove to pieces, and cut out by it. Gloves are sewed with a peculiar kind of silk, prepared on purpose, which is finer and less twisted than ordinary sewing silk; it is between floss and round silk. The needles are small, very sharp, and three-sided towards the point.

For cleaning gloves, see Receipt, No. 40, 45.

ON DOWN AND FUR.

As it may be a matter of economy to some persons, especially to those who live in the country, to understand something of the making up, cleaning, and keeping of down and fur, such hints as are essential to those not regularly employed in the business, are given in the following pages.

DOWN.

The down of the swan, from its high price, is rarely used; as it is not plucked from the skin, there is little to be said about it, excepting that, after being well cleaned, the skin is cut into strips or squares of the size required, and at once sewed upon the article to be trimmed or ornamented.

Christmas is the prime season for goose down, and a great difference is made in the waste, if it is gathered out of season, when there will probably be a mass of pen feathers, or new quills, growing under the breast, which must all be picked out, before the down can be got at, which of course adds much to the trouble and expense. That down which lies under the wings has no quill, therefore it cannot be sewed at all, but is kept for stuffing cushions, coverlets, &c. Down should be kept in paper bags or boxes, in a very dry place; damp spoils it.

A little while before it is used, it should be laid in paper bags before the fire, to lighten or separate it.

For sewing on down, to be used as trimmings, &c., the following instructions should be attended to.

Choose a small empty room, with as few drafts of air as possible in it; wear a black silk pinafore or apron, and have a silk cover, or old apron on the table, to prevent the down adhering to it, or to the dress.

Begin by sorting your down into a box, keeping the refuse, or that without quills, in another box or bag by itself; in sorting it, draw a handful out of the bag, holding it fast in the palm of the hand, pulling it out piece by piece, by which means there is little waste; the hands of the workwoman should be very clean and cool. When all those pieces which have quills to them have been carefully picked out, lay them in pairs upon the table.

Cut your strip of calico to the proper size, whether for a boa or muff, it must be the straight way. Pin the calico, beyond the part where you are going to work, to your waist or dress, and have some strong thread in your needle; double your calico in regular rows or creases, rather less than one quarter of a nail apart; then begin to sew the down upon the first crease or fold, pass your needle through the ends of two of the small quilled pieces, which you must hold in your hand, push them down upon the calico, and sew three stitches strongly upon them, taking care not to pull the thread too tight, or it will not wash well; then take another stitch, a little further on the line, before beginning with the next piece of down. When the row is finished, go on to the next line marked on the calico, keeping that already done, next to you, so as to lie inside, or under your hand.

Observe, that for a boa, the rows of down go width-wise of the calico, while for a muff, the rows must be in a downward direction or round it; in short it should always be sewed in that way which will make it shew to the best advantage when made up, and so as to conceal the rows of sewing.

Upon an average, six ounces of down will make a boa, with nearly three ounces waste. The best goose down is about 2_s._ an ounce; it chiefly comes from Lincolnshire.

Turkey down is also at its prime at Christmas, and is sometimes used for cuffs, neck-ruffs, or operas, and other small articles.

IMITATION ERMINE.

Sew tails of false black sable into white Spanish rabbit skin, cut a little V and let the tail in, covering it over with the flap, and sewing the tail firmly in.

The following is a list of the furs in general use:—

Sable, which is black and brown. Ermine, black and white. Chincilla, greyish blue. Bear, black, brown, and Isabella. Otter. Fox, black, brown, and white or Arctic. Wolf, yellow or sandy. Wolverine. Lynx, black. Squirrel, brown, or silver, which is also called Minever. Racoon. Fitch, brown. Weazel. Rat, Norwegian or Russian. Rabbit. Martin. Cat.

TO MAKE A MUFF.

A full sized muff is about nine nails wide, and fourteen nails long, before it is sewed up. To make a foundation for a muff, lay a piece of Jersey on the table, and upon it a layer of curled horse-hair, next a sheet of wadding, roll it round, and sew it up the proper size, put it inside the muff and tack round the edge at each end, then make the lining, slip it in neatly and fasten it. One yard and a quarter of silk will line a full sized muff.

TO MAKE A BOA.

After sewing the down on the calico, as before directed, or the skins of fur together, turn it to the wrong side, and sew the seam up neatly and strongly, turning it out to the right side as you go on, then fill it with Jersey to a proper thickness.

The usual length of a boa, is from two yards and three-quarters to three yards.

TO MAKE A TIPPET.

A tippet is lined with flannel and wadding between the silk and the fur.

TO MAKE AN OPERA, OR RUFF.

This is lined with flannel and wadding, within the silk lining.

Fur is always cut at the back, with a knife and rule.

TO CLEAN FUR.

Unpick the seam, but not the skins. Place it on a large deal table, and tack it slightly down with small nails. Pound white French chalk, add some bran to it, and keep rubbing it on with the hand and a clean flannel very hard backwards and forwards, take it out with a brush, and when done, shake it well. When a grub or moth is in the fur, put it in a stove hot enough to bear the hand.

TO CLEAN DOWN.

Open the seam, and wash with white soap and warm water; shake it before a gentle fire till dry.

TO PRESERVE FUR

With respect to keeping furs, it is well to bear in mind the old adage that

“A little neglect may breed a great mischief:”

great care should be taken to preserve them free from moths and damp; the following are the best methods of doing so:—

On laying furs by for the summer, they should be put into brown paper bags, with clean hops scattered over them, and once or twice during the season, they should be exposed to the air and well combed or shaken, or they may be put away in tin boxes, or sewed up in strong linen; pepper, Russia leather, or a piece of mould candle are very good preservatives against moths, when put in the box or bag with the fur.

When fur has been wetted, it should not be wiped, but only shaken, and laid in the sun or a warm room till dry.

The best method of cleaning or preserving fur, is by washing the skin with a solution of corrosive sublimate in as much spirits of wine as will dissolve it, and gently shaking it, dry near but not close to a fire. After this process has been gone through, the moth will not touch it, but it requires care, as corrosive sublimate is a strong poison.