CHAPTER VIII.

ON UPHOLSTERY.

As some knowledge of upholstery is of importance to the head of every establishment, a few general observations relating to the fitting up of beds, windows, and other articles of furniture requiring much drapery; also, blinds, carpets, &c., may be advantageously inserted in this work; as, in families of limited income, it is a great saving to make up the above mentioned articles at home.

The Author has only introduced those patterns which, from their simplicity, may always be used, without being decidedly in or out of fashion. It is strongly recommended to those who can afford the expense, to employ an experienced upholsterer, as the patterns will not only be more in fashion, but more tastefully and regularly put up, than they could possibly be by any one unaccustomed to the business.

Great accuracy is necessary for the graceful arrangement of drapery.

BEDSTEADS.

PLATE 22.

There are various shaped bedsteads, and consequently numerous modes of fitting them up, the most simple of which will be explained in their proper order.

[Illustration: PLATE 22

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8

Fig 10 Fig 9 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14

Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20

Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25

Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 30

Fig 26 Fig 28 Fig 31]

In providing bedsteads, it is always better to purchase them quite new, even when required for the commonest purposes, as those which are second-hand are liable to harbour bugs, which it takes both time and patience to get rid of.

It is desirable that all bedsteads should have castors to roll upon, that they may be the more readily moved about. Observe likewise that there are valance sticks, curtain rods, and a good head board.

The best bedsteads are made of mahogany and oak: the commoner sorts, of beech, stained red or painted. Those for hospitals or prisons, of iron; supposed to be a preventative against bugs.

Brass bedsteads are used abroad, especially by travellers, and are ornamental and durable, but very expensive.

The following is a list of the different kinds of bedsteads in general use:—

The four-post bed, from £2. 10_s._ upwards, Plate 22, Fig. 2. The tent bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 15. The camp, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 16. The half-tester, — 18_s._ —— — 22, — 19. The French pole, — £1. 18_s._ —— — 22, — 21. The French arrow bed, — £1. 10_s._ —— — 22, — 22. The canopy bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 25. The French block bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 24. The turn-up bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 26. The stump bed, — 9_s._ —— — 22, — 31. The trestle or x, — 9_s._ —— — 22, — 27.

Besides which may be added, hanging beds or cots, hammocks, cribs, sofa or chair beds, &c.

HINTS ON PUTTING UP BEDS.

So few ladies or servants understand how to put up or take down bedsteads, that the following instructions are entered upon at full length. An instrument called a bed key should be procured for the purpose (see Plate 22, Fig. 1), after which proceed as follows:—Divide the high upright posts for the head of the bed, from those intended for the foot; the former are easily distinguished from the latter, being usually square and perfectly plain, whereas those for the foot are generally circular and ornamented.

Place the two head posts near that part of the wall where the bed is to stand. Lay the foot posts below them on the floor, first observing whether there are any marks or numbers upon them, by which you can be directed to place the proper foot post opposite to its corresponding head post; next lay the side and end pieces in their proper places; the longer ones for the sides, and the shorter for the ends; these should also be marked to point out their relative situations. Lay the head board at the top, and the foot board at the bottom, and afterwards put one long and one short screw at each corner of the bedstead. Assistance must now be procured to rear up the four posts and set in the sides. Three persons are necessary to effect this, but four are better for a full sized bed.

Raise up the posts and set between them the side pieces, taking care to slip into the groove, both the head and the foot boards, as they cannot be put in after the posts are screwed together, unless they button against them. The four long screws are intended to screw into the sides, and the four short ones into the ends. The screw holes are placed behind the little brass plates usually put on the legs of the posts. Proceed with the bed key to turn each screw till firmly fixed in the hole.

The sacking is next tightly laced up with strong cord, and ought to be pulled together and knotted by a man, as a woman is scarcely strong enough to do it effectually. The top-rails are next put on by slipping the holes at the ends over the spikes at the tops of the bed posts.

The curtains are generally put on before the outer cornice, this last is generally fastened on by a spring, or by hooks, or some other simple contrivance.

Camp or tent beds have ribs or bars across the roof of the bed to keep the curved top firm, but in other respects, differ little from the four-post bed.

Observe, on taking down a bed, to mark carefully upon the pieces, before removing them, different numbers, so as easily to place them in their proper situations when next put up.

The head of a half-tester bedstead, should be very strongly attached to the back, as its weight will endanger its falling, if not firmly secured.

The other shapes will be entered upon when the mode of furnishing them is explained.

ON FURNISHING BEDS.

Beds are furnished with the following articles, which with the addition of sheets and pillow cases, explained in the article of house linen, make them complete.

The drapery, including curtains. The straw mattress. The wool or hair mattress. The feather bed. The bolster. The two or three pillows. The quilt or counterpane. The blankets. The watch-pockets.

Beds for common use are hung with linen or cotton check, or stripe, print or stuff, but for better purposes, with dimity, fine stuff, moreen, damask, chintz, Turkey twill, and lined with glazed calico or muslin of various colours, and for state-rooms, fine silk, satin, or velvet is employed.

The modes of fitting up beds are various, according to the shape of the bedstead, as well as to the taste. The most usual and simple methods alone will be treated of here, all best beds and drapery for sitting-rooms should be put up by regular upholsterers, as it requires much correctness of eye, added to taste and knowledge of the prevailing fashion.

The following observations on taste, on the choice of materials, and arrangement of drapery, generally speaking, will be found worth attending to.

Beds that are placed in small and low rooms should be hung with as little drapery, as is consistent with comfort. Large valances, deep fringes, high mattresses look bustling, and are not so airy and therefore not so healthful as plenty of open space.

Beds placed in lofty rooms should be high, and have deep fringe and valances, otherwise they will have a mean appearance, still if the room be narrow, the less bulk of drapery the better.

Beds situated in dark gloomy rooms should be furnished with a cheerful airy material, at the same time avoiding too violent a contrast with the character of the room, furniture, or carpet. Every thing must be taken into consideration and is worth attending to, for with a little judgment, a room may be more elegantly furnished than another where six times the money has been laid out, if not under the direction of taste.

Blue is pretty, but rather cold; yellow gives great cheerfulness, as also pink, but the latter is apt to fade soon and is perhaps a little too shewy. Crimson, claret, stone-colour, buff, and light green all look well; a darker green is very refreshing to the eye, and therefore suitable for very light sunny rooms.

Beds that are furnished with thick drapery, as stuff, moreen, damask or linens, seldom, if ever, require linings, while chintzes and sometimes dimities are lined with glazed calico, in which case, care should be taken that the colour of the lining harmonizes not only with the bed furniture, but with the papering of the room. The fringe, tassels, ribbons, cord, and other decorations, should match in colour with the lining. The pattern of the material should also be a consideration. Stripes or small patterns are suitable for small rooms, while large flowers or patterns best accord with large ones.

ON THE VARIOUS MODES OF DECORATING BED FURNITURE.

Beds are generally decorated with tassels or fringe, if the latter, lace is usually laid on, at about a nail above the edge upon the hem which is turned up. Sometimes the lining is cut larger than the outer part, and brought over the edge to form a hem of a nail deep all round the material outside. This looks pretty and simple. If the cornice be a common one, the valance may be made with a kind of frill or heading above, or a band or rouleau of the material laid above the valance round which may be wrapped strips of the coloured lining of half an inch, or even a nail in width. Cords in festoons, cut velvet, binding and ornamental gimp or open work, are often employed. White dimity furniture is sometimes lined with coloured calico with turned up hems, sometimes merely coloured hems, at others finished with white fringe, or frills with white cords and tassels.

ON FURNISHING A FULL SIZED FOUR-POST BED.

Bed furniture is composed of a top, a back, two head curtains, two foot curtains, one top outer and one top inner valance, one bottom valance, and sometimes extra drapery laid on the back of the bed.

When beds are lined, the lining is put inside the curtains, and within the top and back of the bed. If there is any drapery laid upon the back, it is generally composed of the outer chintz, as is also the inside top valance.

Large sheets of coarse brown paper pasted together in lengths should be laid over the beds to catch the dust. Some persons lay harden or coarse linen between the head of the bed and these sheets of paper.

The furniture for beds must be cut differently, according to the pattern of the material. If it is in stripes down the selvage the valances are cut in breadths, if otherwise, upholsterers generally cut them along the selvage, as they are less liable to shrink when cleaned or washed.

PLAIN DRAPERY FOR A LARGE SIZED FOUR-POST BED.

PLATE 22. FIG. 3.

If in If cut down Breadths. the Selvage.

Width of head curtains, each 2 breadths 2 breadths Width of each foot curtain 4 or 5 4 or 5 Width of foot valance all round 9 or 11 11 yards. Width of the top outside valance 15 breadths 16 yards. Width of the top inside valance 11 breadths 11 yards.

The back and head must be exactly measured, letting the selvage-way ran from head to foot of the bed. The curtains should just touch the ground, as also should the foot valance. The inner top valance should be half a nail narrower than the outer. In making up, the curtains are bound round, or if lined, sometimes the lining is brought outside to form a hem all round. Lace is often laid on at about one nail from the edge. The valances accord with the rest, having often fringe added to gve a greater finish.

FESTOON HANGINGS.

PLATE 22. FIG. 4.

In making festoon valances or hangings, measure as follows:—

Divide the side of the bed in half, driving in a small tack as a mark. Hang a piece of tape from the middle of the side to the end, Fig. 7, making it fall in the droop or curve desired (see A B C, Fig. 7). Do the same with another piece of tape, making it fall in the direction of the upper part of the droop (see D E). Lay the material, Fig. 5, on the table, and after taking down the pieces of tape, measure the material from A to B, the length of the lower droop. Put a pin (see D) immediately above B, upon the other selvage as a mark, and then measure from the end, R, upon the selvage, the length of the upper droop or shortest tape, which will fall at E, at some distance within the mark D. Divide the space between D and E, exactly in half at G, and cut from B to G; cut three other pieces to correspond, which, as they exactly fit one with another (see Fig. 5), prevents waste. These four pieces or breadths are for part of each of the four festoons, which require a breadth and a half in each. For the half breadths fold the material in exactly half its width, laying selvage along selvage, and measure for the rest of the festoons (see Fig. 6). Upon the selvage side, H, measure the length of the shortest part of the first breadths already cut, and on the doubled side, measure the _exact_ length of the smallest tape for the upper droop, L, and cut from H, to within a nail of L, thus, when the doubled part is slit down, forming two half breadths to correspond with the two whole breadths, making in all two complete festoons. Cut two others, and the four festoons are complete, and when the half breadths are sewed to the whole breadths, they appear each similar to Fig. 10. Lay them one upon another, and slope off from the straight end at the bottom A, about two nails from the sloped side, B, and the festoons are ready to be made up. The bottom of the bed must be measured with tape, and cut out in a similar manner.

The corners of the festoons are cut as follows:—

Measure off from the end, A, Fig. 8, down the selvage, the length desired, putting a pin, B, in one of the selvages as a mark. Measure the half of the length, A B, on the opposite selvage at D, and slope off from D to B. This forms one head post corner, or half a foot post corner, so that it requires six of these sloped lengths to complete the four corners of the bedstead, and if cut properly to fit into each other, no waste occurs. The Plate, Fig. 9, represents a head corner, and Fig. 8, a foot corner or two breadths sewed together.

Sometimes a double corner is also made to hang between the two festoons, in which case, it is cut similarly to the above, excepting that it is much shorter and rounder. When the festoon is carried over a pole, it is all in one piece (see Fig. 11), the pieces being shaped at the ends, as in the separate festoons above.

ANOTHER UPPER DRAPERY.

PLATE 22. FIG. 12.

This is simply a deep fringe, and looks exceedingly plain and handsome. A back-piece or very narrow valance should be put outside, the inner valance to accord exactly with the outer, to which the fringe is sewed. The rod or pole should be handsome, and should be put outside this valance, so as just to conceal the part where the fringe is attached. The curtains are suspended to the rod by handsome rings, and draw outside the valance and fringe. Cord and tassels may be added, if preferred.

ANOTHER UPPER DRAPERY.

PLATE 22. FIG. 13.

This is simple and pretty, and takes less material than the full valance; it is cut selvage-way of the material of such a depth as will accord with both room and bedstead, and exactly to fit round the cornice. This valance is cut in various shapes, either pointed, rounded, vandyked, gothic or otherwise, and usually with tassels fixed to each point or angle to give a finish. Cords may be hung in festoons at pleasure.

ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY.

PLATE 22. FIG. 14.

This is equally simple; it is cut in breadths and takes about nine on each side, and seven at the bottom, to go round the bedstead; it is sloped or cut nearly to a point in the middle of each of the three sides, where a bow or ornament of some kind may be put.

ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY.

PLATE 22. FIG. 15.

This is suitable for tent beds, and is hung with a succession of festoons, made as explained before.

ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY.

PLATE 22. FIG. 16.

This is intended for a camp bed, and is hung in festoons, having however a back valance of plaited or plain material, which, together with the curtains may, if preferred, be of a different colour to the valances.

ON THE HEADS AND TOPS OF BEDS.

These vary very much, being sometimes plain and at others ornamented. The material must always lie selvage-way from head to foot, and never crosswise of the bedstead.

When plain, the material is stretched across so as to shew neither crease nor wrinkle. Gimp is often laid down the seams and along the sides.

When the head is plain, it is usual to put two festoons to give it a more finished appearance. These festoons should be of the same material as the outer drapery.

When full, Plate 22, Fig. 20, it takes four or more breadths, and is set evenly into a band of webbing, which is tacked on to the bed, or with loops hung firmly to hooks, so as not to tear the furniture.

When starred, Plate 22, Fig. 17, it generally takes eight breadths, four at the corners, and the other four top and bottom, and the sides, these must be shaped to form the square. It is all drawn to a centre and fastened with a brass star. Sometimes they are half starred, as in Fig. 18, where the plaits radiate from just above the pillow.

ON FOOT BOARDS.

These are generally entirely solid wood, but sometimes the foot board is merely a handsome frame of mahogany containing the same material as the lining of the bed furniture.

Fig. 11 represents a foot board of wood only.

Fig. 15 represents a foot board starred within the frame with chintz or calico.

THE HALF-TESTER.

PLATE 22. FIG. 19, 20.

These may be trimmed in a variety of ways, either festoons, as in Fig. 19, valances, or plain, and cut out in vandykes and scollops, as in Fig. 20. This last looks pretty and simple, and as it gives the appearance of great lightness to the head, it is preferable to the others. The backs should be hung to accord with the outside.

Fig. 19 may be plain, with festoons of the outer material.

Fig. 20, with a simple inside valance, or the back fulled or gathered into a half star, or set in flutes.

FRENCH POLE BED.

PLATE 22. FIG. 21.

This is a compact, pretty shaped bed, and as it can be easily moved about, or taken to pieces, it is convenient in an invalid’s room as an extra bed. Two poles which rise from the head and foot board, support the curtain rod which should be handsomely finished, and might be fastened on by pushing the ends through the rings or circular holes formed at the top of the supporters, and large ends screwed on to fix it firmly. The four curtains have three breadths in each, and are bound together firmly at the top. Rings must be fastened on, through which the rod is drawn, and fastened to the supporters. Tassels may be hung, and cords if preferred. Valances being put round, the drapery is complete. Sometimes the two curtains, falling one on each side, are sewed together behind.

THE FRENCH ARROW BED.

PLATE 22. FIG. 22.

This bedstead is much the same shape as the pole bed, excepting that it has no supporters or curtain rod, and therefore, when hung with drapery, requires being placed near the wall, into which a pin or arrow is driven, over which the drapery is hung. This shaped bedstead, when not hung with drapery, is particularly desirable for servants, or for schools, as the danger of fire is lessened, and if nicely finished and painted looks neat and respectable, besides being economical and clean. When hung, sew nine or eleven breadths together according to the size of the bedstead. Measure the length with a piece of tape, allowing it to droop as it lies from the top of the pole over the foot board to the floor. Sew the breadths up all the seams, and then, after dividing the whole width in half, marking it with a pin, hem the whole, and draw it up folded in two, sewing it firmly to a case which should be made to slip on the pole, something like an umbrella case. Another, and perhaps a better mode, is that of sewing rings to the doubled part thus drawn up, which will slip on to the pole, the head or knob of which when screwed on, would prevent the rings from falling off.

FRENCH BED.

PLATE 22. FIG. 23.

The drapery to this bed is exactly similar to the arrow French bed, excepting that it is passed over a hook secured to the ceiling, in preference to a pole from the wall.

FRENCH BLOCK BED.

PLATE 22. FIG. 24.

The drapery for this is also similar to that of the arrow French bed, excepting that it is fastened with tacks round four sides of a handsome mahogany block fixed to the ceiling. To this should be added a handsome valance or deep fringe to hide the fastenings of the drapery.

THE FRENCH CANOPY BED.

PLATE 22. FIG. 25.

The bedstead and drapery are as the preceding, but fastened to a head or crown secured to the wall having round it festoons as a finish.

Sometimes the head is supported by rods from the bedstead. A valance is added to complete it.

THE TURN-UP BED.

PLATE 22. FIG. 26.

This is also useful as an extra bed for invalids, or for small rooms, as it takes up but little space, can be easily moved, and when turned up, looks neat and tidy. In the one here represented, the sides are made to draw out, the legs to unhook, and the top to take to pieces, so that the whole can be packed in a small compass when not wanted. In making up the drapery, the back may be full, plain or starred; the sides plain or plaited, and two curtains sewed on, so made as to overlap each other a little in front. These curtains loop up at the sides with cords.

THE PRESS BED.

PLATE 22. FIG. 28.

This shuts up still more completely than the turn-up bed, and forms a chest or toilet table, when not in use; it looks very neat with a simple toilet cover over the top. These beds are useful on some occasions, in towns and in small houses, although they are not generally considered wholesome, being low and rather confined. They are sometimes lined with glazed calico, and a cover put outside of dimity, frilled round the top, to which is sewed a piece of the same material, very much fulled all round, to open in the middle of the front, down each side of which is put a frill or fringe.

THE STUMP BED.

PLATE 22. FIG. 31.

These are principally used by cottagers, and men servants, and require no drapery, they are called stump bedsteads because the head posts are short, not being higher than is sufficient to admit of a head board.

Sometimes cottagers attach a kind of curtain to a hook in the wall, which adds much to their warmth and comfort, and would appear like a half French bed. This drapery might be two breadths behind, and two on each side, making six in all, which should be doubled and gathered to a strong webbing. Baize, calimanco, or cotton check would be very suitable.

THE TRESTLE BED.

PLATE 22. FIG. 27.

This is the most simple and most common kind of bedstead made, and from its construction, is not calculated to support a very heavy person, all the strength depending upon the power of the two pins or screws which fasten the legs. No drapery is used unless fastened to the wall as in the above stump bedstead. A head board, with two pins, slips into the holes at the top.

THE HANGING BED OR COT.

PLATE 22. FIG. 29, 30.

These are excellent things for children, especially where there is a large family of sons; for officers’ families who are often obliged to change their residence, they are particularly desirable, on account of their cheapness, durability, and the little space they occupy. They are only proper for single beds, but are sufficiently strong for a grown-up person. They would answer exceedingly well for cottagers, as in the day time, they might be drawn up to the ceiling, thus affording more room in the apartment for washing, or performing other household duties. They are made for the higher classes as follows:—

Procure a strong frame of wood, of about six feet long, and two feet and a half wide, also two round poles of wood, two feet long and about two inches in diameter. Get some strong ticking, or if it be covered and lined, a kind of thick sacking would do, which might have a cover of chintz, and lining of glazed calico. This sacking must be cut according to the Plate 22, Fig. 29, allowing in addition to the size of the frame, three feet at each end, and eighteen inches at the sides. The ends have a strong hem or case sewed to them, into which the poles are slipped. The four sides have lace-holes large enough to admit of strong coloured cord to lace them together. The frame is let into the square thus formed, having previously fastened to the sides two pieces of ticking, one sewed on each long side at the bottom.

Put the frame into the square, having, however, first firmly fastened at the bottom of the square, another piece of ticking, which shall lace over the frame, down the length of the cot, so as to make a kind of straight waistcoat, which keeps the frame firmly in place. Observe that the cot, which is two feet six inches wide at the frame, is sloped off to two feet at the ends where the poles are admitted, in order to contract the sides a little, this keeps the clothes in place, and if for a child, adds much to its safety. Crimson or other coloured ropes should be employed to hang the cot from under the frame through hems up the high ends, and out through holes made in the poles, afterwards to meet at the hook in the ceiling on each side. A strong cord is also run in at the hem along the long sides of the cot. Fringe may be added at the bottom, if preferred. They should be hung at the same height from the ground as common beds, the ropes should be very strong, and be constantly looked at. They are better when fitted up with two thin mattresses than with a mattress and bed. When not wanted, they will, if unlaced, lie flat against a wall in a closet and take but little room. They are hung from a ring on a hook in the ceiling.

Very little cots might be made with advantage to hang in a carriage, or within a very large four-post bed, where the mother might attend her infant without rising in the night to the danger of taking cold.

The expense of a handsomely fitted up cot would be about £2., but a common one might be made for eight or ten shillings.

There are no further observations to be made on beds, excepting that the more readily the drapery can be taken off and put on to the bedstead, the less will be the wear and tear, so that if small loops or rings could be sewed on the valances, so as to loop over the cornice, it would be desirable. Once or twice a year bed furniture should be taken down and well dusted, rubbed with crusts of bread, and sometimes calendered to keep it in order. On leaving home, the curtains should be rolled up to the top of the bed and put into linen bags, and the cornices and valances taken down and covered up.

MATTRESSES.

The first mattress usually laid on the bedstead is made of straw, it is very thick, and as hard as a board; as these are never made at home, nothing more will be said about them, excepting that they are made in a frame, and should be covered with a very strong good tick or Holland.

The second mattress is made of horse-hair or wool for large beds; and for children, of chaff, sea-weed, beech leaves, cocoa nut fibre, paper, and many other things of the sort; chaff and horse-hair appear the most desirable, from being cool, and neither too soft nor too hard for comfort. These mattresses are made of various sorts of ticking, of which linen or cotton stripe, and a kind called cranky tick are most in use. For the poor, mattresses are often filled with mill-puff, or flock, and for children, bran might be a good substitute. Mattresses are made exactly to fit the bedstead, being cut out at the corners to surround the post, if they intrude into the square of the bedstead. They have sides sewed all round of one nail and a half or two nails deep.

In cutting out a mattress, the rule is to allow an extra inch to every foot, to give room for the stuffing both in length and in width.

These sides are usually cut the selvage-way of the ticking, and are attached to the top and bottom by means of ferreting or webbing, which is stitched with strongly waxed whitey brown thread, after which, the mattress is filled with the stuffing, and then is tufted, as it is usually called, which is done by passing a packing needle threaded with strong thread entirely through the thickness of the mattress and again passing it back at a little distance, and tying the two ends firmly together. This is repeated at intervals of four nails or more apart, in a straight row along it. A second line of tufting is now done, still at four nails apart, letting the stitches fall opposite the middle of the spaces in the last row, and so on. This secures the stuffing of the mattress, and keeps it in place, little tufts of worsted are sewed to these parts thus stitched, to hide the stitches and ornament the mattress, sometimes mere circles of red leather are sewed on instead.

The price of a straw mattress is from 10_s._ to 30_s._ The price of a wool mattress is from 35_s._ to 60_s._ The price of horse-hair, per lb., is from 1_s._ to 2_s._ The price of mill-puff, per lb. 2_d._ The price of linen tick, per yard, is from 9_d._ to 2_s._ 9_d._ The price of cotton tick, per yard, is from 4½_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._ The price of wool, per lb., is from 6_d._ to 1_s._ 2_d._

BEDS, BOLSTERS, AND PILLOWS.

These are filled with chicken, turkey, goose feathers, and down, for the higher classes, and mill-puff, which is a kind of cotton, for the lower classes. The following prices are an average of the expense of the various articles for making up beds.

Mill-puff, 2½_d._ per lb., of which fifty pounds make a large bed. Flock, at 3_d._ per lb. Chicken feathers, at 10_d._ or 1_s._ Grey goose, or turkeys’, at 2_s._ or 2_s._ 6_d._ Best goose, white feathers, at 2_s._ 2_d._ to 3_s._ 6_d._ Down from geese, for pillows, 6_s._ per lb. Cotton ticking, for beds, at 6_d._ or 8_d._ Linen ticking, for beds, at 1_s._ or 1_s._ 3_d._

Beds are made sometimes with sides, and sometimes without; in the latter case, nine yards of ticking are sufficient, otherwise eleven yards. Divide one yard and two nails into four, to make the long sides, and another yard, divided into four, to make ends; the bed is two yards and a quarter in length, two breadths above, and two below. The ticking is waxed with white wax, or rubbed with brown soap, and when the feathers are in, the sides are bound with the usual binding, or what is still better, piped throughout.

In making up mill-puff beds, care should be taken to separate dust, and disentangle it well, before putting it into the ticking.

For a bolster, two yards are required, and for each pillow, one yard. These should be filled with the softest feathers, and the ticking well stitched.

Pillows are sometimes covered with calico covers, which tack or button on underneath the usual pillow cases, mentioned in the article “House Linen,” and make them look beautifully white and clean.

Every double bed should have three or four pillows, and single ones, either one or two. Bolsters sometimes have also covers to preserve the ticking. Pillows are often stuffed with down, or torn pieces of paper of a quarter of an inch square; this last is said to be particularly soft and cool.

BLANKETS.

Every bed should have one under blanket, and two or three upper ones. These last are usually the Witney, whilst the under blanket is of an inferior sort; they should be thick and light, with a soft nap or wool upon them. Blankets are generally sold in pairs, or two woven together. These, for beds must be cut, in which case, the edges are sewed over in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch, with red, or other coloured wool, also a kind of circle or star is often worked in the corner with various coloured wool.

For cribs, it is better not to divide the blankets but lay them on the crib double, as they come in more usefully as under blankets for beds afterwards, when uncut. The Witney blanket is considered the best.

The Rose and the Bath are the other varieties.

When not in use, blankets should be folded, and laid under those beds in use, to keep them aired. Some persons lend blankets to the poor, in which case, on their being returned, they should be scoured well and baked in an oven, before they are put by in brown paper bags with pepper sprinkled over them.

COVERLETS OR COUNTERPANES.

There are various kinds of quilts or counterpanes. Those most known are,

The Marseilles, which sell from 6_s._ to 25_s._ The Imperial, which sell from 9_s._ to 30_s._ The Summer, which sell from 25_s._ to 58_s._ The Toilet cover, or cradle quilt 15_s._ to 42_s._

Those used for servants, are of a dark brown, violet, or grey colour.

Those used by cottagers, are often of patchwork made by them at school, or in their leisure moments. These quilts are sometimes made of a succession of hexagons or six-sided pieces of print, at others, birds, figures, and other devices are cut out and sewed up with various shaped bits of calico, prints, &c. These quilts are durable when lined, and may be good work for school children, though they certainly take up a good deal of time in making.

All counterpanes not in constant use, should be either put by in drawers, or laid on the bed with the wrong side uppermost.

Having now entered upon each article belonging to the bedstead, it only remains for us to make the following observation.

It is advisable to cut several small squares of linen, and having wet them with the marking liquid, to mark upon them the list of every article belonging to the bed to which the square of calico is to be attached. These squares should be washed and ironed, and sewed upon the mattress, bed, bolster, pillows, blankets, and coverlet of each bedstead, thus:—

BLUE ROOM.

One straw mattress. One hair ditto. One feather bed. Four pillows, one bolster. One under and three upper blankets. One counterpane. Two watch-pockets.

By this method, the bed furniture, if mixed, can easily be sorted and counted by the mistress or housemaid.

WATCH POCKETS.

These are often made of the same material as the bed-curtains, or of white muslin, or dimity, or tick ornamented. A few shapes are mentioned hereafter, in the chapter on cases, bags, &c.

CARPETS.

Those generally known, are as follows:—

Superb Axminster. Saxony. Royal velvet pile. Tournay. Brussels. Turkey. Imperial. Kidderminster. Venetian. Danish Venetian. Scotch. Druggets. Rugs, &c.

All these carpets are expensive and durable, the Brussels is that most in use for best apartments, and best stair-cases in the present day, being very durable, and less expensive than most of the others mentioned in the same list. Their price varies from 4_s._ 6_d._ to 10_s._ 6_d._ per yard. Turkey carpets were formerly in great request for dining-rooms, and were sometimes used as table cloths in libraries, which gave a remarkably rich and handsome, though heavy appearance. The great objection to them is their great weight, which renders it difficult to shake them. These Turkey carpets look well for years, and are made in the piece, measuring sometimes ten or more yards long, and five or more wide. The expense varies according to their size, from £10. to £80. or more.

Those carpets generally employed for common sitting-rooms, stair-cases, servants’ apartments, &c. are the following:—

Kidderminster. Venetian. Damask Venetian. Scotch. Druggets. Baizes, &c.

The Kidderminster and Damask Venetian are the most desirable of these inferior carpets; the Scotch and common Venetian being used for school-rooms and servants’ apartments.

These vary much in price, from 2_s._ to 6_s._ per yard.

Druggets are very wide, being sometimes two yards, and sometimes four yards. They are chiefly employed to lay over another carpet, to preserve it when the room is in daily use, and only removed for company. Sometimes druggets alone are laid, and when of a handsome brown or marone colour, look exceedingly well. They should be very tightly stretched on the floor, so as not to present a wrinkle to view.

Carpets are often made in worsted-work upon canvass, and are considered durable, though the time occupied in making them is great.

A worked border upon canvass, with the arms or crest, with drugget sewed between, has a very pretty effect for a stair carpet, and might be quickly done. Borders can be purchased in shops for the same purpose.

There are various modes of making up rugs, but as this belongs more properly to fancy work, it will not here be mentioned.

Rugs may be knit in various ways also, as will be seen in the chapter upon knitting.

In making up carpets, observe the following directions, as they are necessary for their appearance and durability.

Brussels, when made up, should be turned with the wrong side outwards, with the selvages just touching each other, but not laid one upon the other. The carpet needle is then passed backwards and forwards, always taking up both seams at a time, first pointing the needle from, and next towards the chest. Observe, the alternate stitches are always taken behind, or at the back of the last stitch, so as to work along the seam from right to left in a kind of back-stitch fashion. The seam will be close together and tread down flat. Observe, carefully to cut out the carpet, and sew it up to match the pattern properly and exactly, as the slightest mistake or pucker will ruin the appearance of the whole carpet. There is a kind of thread, called carpet thread, sold for the purpose, of every colour.

Kidderminster and other carpets are sewed in the usual mode of sewing seams together, taking care to secure the selvages very firmly together, taking up every thread.

Druggets. These are turned down once, and herring-boned at the edges, and sewed up at the seams, as above.

All carpets should be bound with the regular carpet binding at the edges, or the carpet simply turned down with the binding laid on. This last plan is the flattest, and answers for that end of the room where the doors are situated, for them to open and shut more easily upon.

Expensive carpets should be cut as little as possible, therefore, when a piece is obliged to be cut for the hearth stone, it is better to slit the piece only at the sides, and having caught the edges over to prevent their ravelling, the piece or lip should then be turned in underneath the carpet. By this means, if the carpet is wanted for another room, the lip might be sewed up neatly and form the square again.

Carpet rods are very useful things, not only for stair-cases, but for bed-rooms, or sitting-rooms, to fasten and stretch the carpets on the floor with. In this case, the rod should be a little longer than the breadth of the carpet, and a Holland or linen case sewed very firmly underneath the carpet so as just to come to the edge of it, or even strong tape loops would answer as well. Run the rod along them, and let it pass at each end into two or more brass rings or hooks fastened to the floor.

Matting is used for halls, passages, and sometimes laid beneath the carpets to preserve them. It should always be neatly bound with red, green, or other coloured leather.

Carpets should always be mended with a loose kind of untwisted worsted, called thrums.

[Illustration: PLATE 23.

Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Fig. 5

Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8

Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12

Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 13

Fig. 19 Fig. 14

Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fig. 20 Fig. 24]

WINDOW CURTAINS.

PLATE 23.

The drapery for window curtains, if for sitting-rooms, is generally attached to one cornice, whether for two, three, or even four windows; but for bed-rooms, the drapery is always separately hung. Observe for bed-rooms, that the window curtains should always accord with the hanging on the bed, both in colour and material, as also in shape. Those hangings already drawn for bed furniture will be a sufficient pattern by which to form the corresponding window curtains, therefore but a few additional patterns for bed-rooms will be explained.

It is desirable to have as little window drapery as possible to family or secondary rooms, particularly nurseries and servants’ rooms, on account of their liability to catch fire, especially as toilet tables are so often situated within the window. In an upper story, curtains might be dispensed with, using only the valance and corners.

Windows have generally two brass pins or hooks on each side, over which the curtains are hung or looped.

Curtains should always be cut six or eight nails longer than the length of the window, to allow for their touching the ground when looped upon the pin. For a window of three panes, two breadths are sufficient in each curtain, but for four or five panes, two and a half, or three breadths, will be necessary for each. They should be often dusted, and in hot summers, bed-room and even sitting-room curtains might be taken down and put by till wanted for winter, as the sun fades and makes them look shabby.

PLATE 23. FIG. 1.

This is very handsome for a sitting-room, or even for a drawing-room, a kind of straight valance is put behind a rod, to which a deep fringe is sewed. The curtains with tassels sewed to them at the top, draw along the rod with large rings. A lace may be laid down the curtains, at one nail from the edge: this curtain in green and gold looks very handsome.

PLATE 23. FIG. 2.

This style is more suited to a sitting-room or bed-room, being rather too heavy for a drawing-room.

The cornice is of mahogany or painted wood, to which a plain valance, cut selvage-way, is fastened. This valance is either scolloped, vandyked, or cut in any other form at the bottom, and a pattern in cut velvet or lace is sewed on at the edge, and also at about a nail above it. Two plain corners are cut, and with the curtains, are also ornamented at one nail from the edge, with the same decoration as the valance.

PLATE 23. FIG. 3.

This is very neat for a bed-room, or for a common sitting-room, but unless of very handsome materials, might be considered too plain for a best room. To a mahogany cornice is fastened a straight valance, cut down the selvage, and shaped according to the Plate, or otherwise, according to taste. It must be bound with another coloured binding, and handsome tassels sewed on at each point.

PLATE 23. FIG. 4.

This is a very handsome drapery for any room, and is simply a festoon thrown over a pole, as before explained, with double corners. Fringe and lace add to the finish.

PLATE 23. FIG. 5.

This is suitable for gothic windows, or for a study or library, it is very simple, and may be formed to any shape, according to the style of the room.

The corners are in a piece with the valance, and are cut down the selvage; a pattern of cut velvet may be laid on at the corners, to give it relief.

PLATE 23. FIG. 6.

This is a handsome drapery for a drawing or dining-room, and might be adapted to any number of windows, by continuing the lower cornice, and providing one or more upper rods, in addition to the one represented in the Plate. The corners should reach more than half way down the window, but the middle double piece should be much shorter. Lace and tassels are required to finish the whole.

The cornice may be black, with brass ends, or entirely brass.

PLATE 23. FIG. 7.

Another very pretty festoon, and suitable for a drawing-room or elsewhere. The middle part is a festoon, with a point attached to it, and, on this account, would require two breadths instead of one and a half, to form the depth required.

PLATE 23. FIG. 9.

This is a beautiful drawing-room window festoon, and requires a more ornamental brass cornice than usual.

The festoons are all very simple, being cut out as before explained, excepting that the corners are longer than ordinary, being looped upon a high curtain pin, so that the ends must be sloped off from one-third, instead of one half of the material.

Sometimes with three windows, the two inner curtains of the outer windows are simply muslin, and the middle window has two of muslin, as well as of the material.

PLATE 23. FIG. 8.

Passage or church windows are generally circular, unless pointed; in the former case, they should be hung at the top with a piece of straight material of the depth of half the diameter of the circle, and sufficiently long to be a little fulled to the outer part of the circle. The inner part is gathered to a point in the middle; the curtains simply hang to the rod, ornamented by a little frill, valance, fringe, or tassels, as taste may direct.

There are many ways of drawing curtains together, but the one now most adopted is that of bringing them forwards or backwards by means of one string which at once draws both curtains; the following is an explanation.

PLATE 23. FIG. 10.

Let A B represent the two rods under the cornice, and behind, or concealed by the valance. After putting the rings of each curtain upon its own rod, tie the cord to the ring, No. 1, and pass across through the rings marked No. 2, over the side pulley of the window, down the side, C, round the pulley, D, up the side again, and under the top pulley, and then take it across above the rings, till it comes to the first ring, No. 1, when it is also passed through it and all the others towards E, it is next taken round the pulley, H, and outside the rings, and fastened to the ring, No. 2, in a hard knot.

PLATE 23. FIG. 11.

This is an old fashioned simple curtain still in use in churches, small houses, and for housekeepers’ rooms. The curtain is in as many breadths as is required for the width of the window, and of the proper length. The top is nailed to the cornice, and small loops or rings are put down the seams of the breadths, at equal distances (say about four nails from each other). Through these rings are passed cords which unite in one long cord, and on pulling this cord, the whole curtain draws up, forming as many festoons as there are breadths, or rather lengths of rings down it. This cord must be wound round and round two pins or hooks placed at the side of the window, at about six nails apart.

Other curtains are passed backwards and forwards like bed-curtains, or have a cord on each side, to draw them separately; in which case, it is passed through all the rings, being fastened to the last or innermost ring.

MUSLIN CURTAINS.

These are put within the outer curtains in drawing-rooms, dining-rooms, and sometimes even for bed-rooms. They serve as a great shade to the best curtains, both from dust and sun, and have besides a neat, clean, and rather dress appearance. Many persons take down their chintz curtains when they put up muslin ones.

Muslin curtains are generally made of book-muslin, though sometimes mull or jaconet have been employed. They are made with deep hems and rings at the top, and so arranged as to fall towards the inside of the window. Curtains are sometimes knit or net of cotton, they look very neat and pretty, and are besides very durable.

LITTLE HALF CURTAINS.

PLATE 23.

These are much in use for the lower windows of town houses, to prevent persons from looking into the rooms, and are generally made to reach half way up to the second pane, or merely to the first. They are made of muslin, or a kind of canvass, and sometimes, though very rarely of chintz.

FULL CURTAIN.

PLATE 23. FIG. 12.

This is simply cut in as many breadths as wanted to full it to the window, a frill is made near the top by turning down a nail or more, and making a runner, into which the tape is run, to draw it up to the size required, this tape is looped at each end and fastened on to two hooks at the sides.

ROD CURTAIN.

PLATE 23. FIG. 13.

This is a favourite and very neat pattern, and is made by sewing six or more breadths together according to the size of the window, of eight or ten nails deep. They are hemmed at the top and bottom, and two gilt or wooden rods are passed through the hems, fulling the curtain well upon them, after which, the rods exactly fit into the window frames.

PLATE 23. FIG. 14.

By way of variety these rods are sometimes put in at the sides, instead of top and bottom.

PLATE 23.

Sometimes these curtains are fixed in a frame, exactly to fit the width of the window, in which case they are often starred like a bed foot board, and look exceedingly neat and pretty.

WINDOW BLINDS.

PLATE 23. FIG. 15.

These are generally made of linen or long lawn, and sometimes of Holland, calico, painted print, green canvass or gauze, or calimanco. If possible, procure the material of the exact breadth of the window, allowing for a good turning in, to herring-bone down, as blinds wear and set far better without seams, and with the side herring-boned.

They should have tape loops or a case for the rod to slip in, and not be nailed on, as the blind is so apt to wear and tear when taken off for washing. Sometimes a small ring is fastened to the blind at the bottom on each side, through which a cord runs, and is nailed tightly top and bottom of the window, this contrivance always makes the blind draw up straightly. A hem is made at the bottom, to admit of the stick, and a cord and tassel generally fastened to the middle, by which it may be drawn down. A cord moving round a pulley at the top, and a window crank at the bottom, enable it to be drawn up and down at pleasure.

CHAIR, SOFA, AND OTHER COVERS.

When chairs and sofas are fitted up with damask, merino, stuff, horse hair, or other material that does not wash, they are generally covered with Holland, chintz, or glazed calico, which protects them from dust and dirt, and are easily removed, when required for company. Holland covers are the most durable, but look cold; chintz, unless very strong, should be lined with thin glazed calico. The cover should be made exactly to fit the chair or sofa, with or without piping at the edge, and with loops sewed on three of the sides underneath, and a pair of strings on the fourth side; the cover is firmly fastened down by passing one of the strings through the three loops, and making it tie. Ottomans generally have the covers to fit along beneath the edging of wood, in which case, they must be pinned to the stuffing with very strong pins, which from their length are called sofa pins.

ARM CHAIRS.

PLATE 23. FIG. 16.

It is a good plan to make a kind of case of Holland to fit half way down the cushion, A B C D, which protects the cover from being soiled by the head, on leaning back. Each arm chair should have two or three of these cases for wash and wear.

SOFAS.

These, besides being covered, should have a length of Holland of one breadth, and about one yard, or more long, for the feet of any person lying down to be placed upon.

Where there is an invalid in the house, constantly resting upon the sofa, it is very desirable to make a little flat pillow, put into a muslin cover, frilled all round, to lay the head upon, thus keeping the cushions perfectly clean and neat.

DIVAN.

PLATE 23. FIG. 17.

This is a kind of long sofa, without either back or sides, and may be made to open, which forms a very convenient box for large engravings, drawings, &c., &c. The cover should be all in one piece behind, but in front, and at the sides, the top should be unconnected with the lower part, to admit of its opening, so that in fact, the cover must look as much like a box that opens as possible; loops sewed to the edge might fix it into some hooks inside. These divans are very useful for bed-rooms, and would hold bonnets or furs, or mourning, or any thing else, and at the same time, act as a sofa also.

FOOTSTOOLS AND HASSOCKS.

PLATE 23. FIG. 18.

These are made in various ways, and may be got up very cheaply at home. The most simple and one of the prettiest for a bed-room or even a sitting-room is a cloth or velvet hassock braided over, or otherwise ornamented. It is cut circular both top and bottom, a straight side is sewed in between, and ears or handles fastened on, by which they may be carried. These are very soft for young children to sit upon.

ANOTHER KIND.

This is made of two or four bricks tied firmly together, wrapped round with strong sacking, and then neatly covered with cloth, and if not in good shape a little extra stuffing may be added. These footstools are very useful for nurseries, school-rooms, or for servants at work.

CHURCH BASSES.

PLATE 23. FIG. 20.

Flat circular ones are often in use. Sometimes straw ones are covered with green or crimson cloth, and look very neat. Basses may be filled with mill-puff, straw, chaff, bran, or bits of cloth, &c. Some persons prefer a simple cushion or flat pillow to kneel upon, in which case, they may be filled with feathers.

CHURCH SEATS.

PLATE 23. FIG. 24.

Church pews are generally lined with cloth, and fastened by brass nails and binding laid on. The cushions, Plate 23, Fig. 24, are oblong, and made like a very soft mattress.

They have pieces of cloth, bound round and sewed to them in front, to give an air of comfort and neatness to the seat.

The ground or floor is generally covered with a drugget of the same colour as the lining of the seat.

TABLE COVERS.

These may be made variously at home, or else cloth or linen covers may be procured at the mercers’ shops. Those made at home are generally of cloth or silk, and sometimes, though very rarely, of satin or velvet. Cloth ones are generally bound with binding, and a lace laid on at a nail from the edging. Velvet, cut in leaves or patterns, is sometimes laid on; different kinds of coloured cloth, cut in the shape of oak leaves, or according to taste, sewed on round the edge look very pretty. Patchwork of silks on a black ground also looks handsome.

SCREENS.

PLATE 23. FIG. 21.

These may be made by merely hemming a piece of rich silk at the top, through which a rod is passed, which is secured to the pole of the screen. The bottom of this silk is hemmed neatly and has a deep fringe set on. The silk should be a good deal fulled, when on the rod, to look handsome.

Others are made by plaiting or fluting rich silk in straight lines, Fig. 22, or to radiate from the centre, which is confined within a frame of rosewood or mahogany.

Large folding screens are made for putting near to doors, to prevent draughts of air, and are useful to place near a warm bath, especially for infants or delicate persons, so as to enable them to dress free from cold air: small screens of two folds are very convenient to place by every washing stand, when two persons occupy the same room. The frames, after being made by a carpenter, should be finished up at home. They are usually covered with canvass, Holland, calimanco, chintz, twill, or other material. Black Holland looks very neat. These screens make very good scrap books for children, by being pasted over with riddles, prints, caricatures, &c., &c.