CHAPTER TWENTY-NINTH.--Cloud and Clipperton Islands--Whales, Sharks,

Porpoises, and Dolphins--A Shark captured--Shark Steak--“Caudle Lecture”--Death of Samuel B. Lewis--A Calm--Foot Races by the Ship’s Furniture--Passenger Peculiarities--Short of Provisions--“’Bout Ship”--First of January--Its Luxuries at Sea--A Tame Sea Fowl--A Passenger Dying--A Shark--A delightful Evening Scene--A Death--Burial at Sea by Candle Light--A Turtle navigating the Ocean--His suspicious conduct--A written Protest against the Captain--Cocus Island--Capturing “Boobies,” 175

CHAPTER THIRTIETH.--Intense Heat--Human Nature as exhibited by the Passengers--Danger, not apprehended--A Tattler--A “Dutch Justice”--“Long Tom Coffin”--A Quaker Hat--An Individual running Wild--His Oaths, Depredations, Musical Accomplishments, Showman Propensities, and Pugilistic Developments--“Blubber,” Buckskin, and “The Last Run of Shad”--A capsized Whale Boat--Thrilling Sensation--Harpoon used--A Shark--“Land ho!”--Gulf of Panama--South American Coast--“Sail ho!”--Dolphin for Dinner--A Whale--A Terrific Gale--Our Sails and Spars carried away, 180

CHAPTER THIRTY-FIRST.--Bay of Panama--Its Beauties--Tropical Fruits--The City in sight--Excitement on Board--Appearance of the City--Her Ruins--Preparations to Drop Anchor--“Stand by!”--“Let go the Anchor!”--Farewell to the Sick--A Perilous Ride on the Back of an Individual--On Shore--First Dinner--Nothing left--An Individual feeling comfortable--Panama Americanized--A Moonlight Scene viewed from a Brass “Fifty-Six”--A Dilapidated Convent as seen at Night--Church Bells--Burning the Dead--Exposure of the Desecrated Remains--Sickening and Disgusting Sight--Infants cast into Pits--The Rescue of their Souls requiring a Gigantic Effort on the part of the Church--A Catacomb--“Eternal Light”--Ignorance of the Mass--Peerless Characteristics, 184

CHAPTER THIRTY-SECOND.--A Nun--Fandango--Marriage Engagement broken--Start for Gorgona--Our Extreme Modesty--Sagacity of the Mule--Sleep on my Trunk--A Dream--An Alligator with a Moustache--Infernal Regions--Demons--An Individual with Long Ears, and a Mule in Boots--Falling out of Bed--Funeral Procession--Gorgona--Start for Chagres--Our Bungo Full--Spontaneous Combustion, almost--“Poco Tiempo”--Lizards for Dinner--The Hostess--Gatun--Music of the Ocean--Arrival, 190

CHAPTER THIRTY-THIRD.--Chagres, its Growth--Getting on board the Empire City--Magnificent Steamer--Gold Dust on board--Steamers Alabama, Falcon, Cherokee, and Severn--My friend Clark arrives on board--Preparations for Starting--Our Steamer makes her First Leap--“Adios”--Caribbean Sea--Heavy Sea on--Jamaica--Port Royal--Kingston--“Steady!”--Beautiful Scene--Orange Groves--People flocking to the Shore--Drop Anchor--The Town--General Santa Anna’s Residence--“Coaling up”--Parrot Pedler in a Dilemma, 196

CHAPTER THIRTY-FOURTH.--Our Wheels revolve--The Natives of the Island Extinct--The Wrongs they have suffered--The Island once a Paradise--San Domingo, her Mountains--Cuba--A Shower Bath Gratis--“Sail ho!”--Caycos Island and Passage--Turtle for Dinner--A Sermon--Gallant Conduct of our Steamer--We ship a Sea--A Spanish Vessel in Distress--Our Tiller Chains give way--A Knife and Fork in search of Mince Pies--Gulf Stream--Water-Spouts--“Light Ship”--Sandy Hook--Anxiety--Sight of New York--Feelings and Condition of the Passengers--A Sad Fate--Aground--A new Pilot--Again under weigh--Near the Dock--Death--Man Overboard--Make Fast--At Home--One Word to those about to embark, 201

CONSTITUTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA, 207

CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED,

INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF THE

PANAMA AND NICARAGUA ROUTES.

Chapter First.

SAIL FROM NEW YORK--OUR PILOT LEAVES US--LAND RECEDES PROM VIEW--SEA-SICKNESS--A WHALE--ENTER THE GULF STREAM--ENCOUNTER A GALE--ENTER THE TROPIC OF CANCER--“LAND, HO!”--CAYCOS AND TURK’S ISLANDS--ST. DOMINGO--CUBA--ENTER THE CARIBBEAN SEA--SPORTING--SUNDAY--STANDING IN FOR THE PORT OF CHAGRES--BEAUTIFUL SCENE--DROP ANCHOR.

DEAR READER:--If you have visited California, you will find nothing in these pages to interest you; if you have not, they may serve to kill an idle hour. On the 27th of January, 1849, having previously engaged passage, I had my baggage taken on board the bark “Marietta,” lying at Pier No. 4, East River, preparatory to sailing for Chagres, _en route_ to California. It was 9, A.M. A large concourse of friends and spectators had collected on the pier to witness our departure, and after two hours of confusion and excitement, we let go our hawser--and, as we swung around into the stream, received the last adieus of our friends on shore. We were taken in tow by a steam-tug, and were soon under way, our bowsprit pointing seaward. We occupied our time, while running down the bay, in writing notes to our friends, our pilot having kindly volunteered to deliver them. We passed Forts Hamilton and Diamond at 1, P.M., and at three had made Sandy Hook. Our pilot’s boat, which had been laying off, came along side to receive him; we gave our last thoughts into his charge, and bade him adieu.

We had now passed Sandy Hook, and putting our helm down, we stood away to the South. The wind being light, we bent on studding sails, and were soon making our course at the rate of five knots. The excitement had now subsided; and, as the hills were fast receding, we were most painfully admonished that we were leaving home and friends. We soon sunk the highest points of land below the horizon, and felt that we were fairly launched upon the ocean, and that we were traveling to a scene of adventure, the result of which no one could divine. We felt that sinking of spirit one only feels on such occasions; and, at this particular time, clouds as dark as night hung in the horizon of the future. Night came on, and with it a stiff breeze, creating a heavy sea. This caused most of the passengers to forget their friends, and bestow their undivided care upon themselves.

For some cause, at this particular juncture, the passengers were affected with peculiar sensations, mostly in the region of the stomach. They did not think it was sea-sickness. Whatever the cause may have been, the effect was most distressing. It assumed an epidemic form. The symptoms were a sickening sensation and nausea at the stomach; the effect, distressing groans and copious discharges at the mouth. The captain felt no alarm; said he had had similar cases before on board his ship. The night was spent in the most uncomfortable manner imaginable. Many of the passengers, too sick to reach their berths, were lying about on deck, and at every surge would change sides of the vessel. All being actuated by the same impulse, performed the same evolutions.

With the dawn of the 28th, the wind lulled, and our canvas was again spread to a three knot breeze. At noon we took our first observation, and at evening passed a ship, although not within speaking distance. The dawn of the 29th is accompanied by a seven-knot breeze, and we stand away on our course with all sail set. At 3 P.M., we were saluted by a whale, and at 4 entered the Gulf Stream. We here first observe luminous substances in the water, which at night appear like an ocean of fire. During the night it blew a gale, and we ran under double-reefed topsails, with mainsail furled. 30th. Leave the Gulf Stream, the wind blowing a terrific gale. We are tossed about on mountainous waves, and all sick. 31st. All sail set, and running six knots; dolphins and porpoises playing about the ship. We are again saluted by a whale.

1st Feb. Pleasant; all appear at table; enter the trade winds; hoist studding-sails; lovely day; 4, P.M., mate catches a dolphin, and brings him on deck. 2d. Calm summer day. 3d. All on deck; extremely pleasant. 4th. Sunday; pleasant; pass a ship; fine breeze; throw the log; are running eight knots. 5th. Pass through schools of flying-fish, one of which flies on board. We enter the tropic of Cancer. A flock of black heron are flying through the air; we take an observation; are eighty miles from Caycos and Turk’s Island; making for the Caycos passage. 7th. 5, P.M. The captain discovers land from the mast-head, and we are cheered with the cry of “Land, Ho!” We pass around Caycos Island, and through the passage; and on the morning of the 8th, are in sight of St. Domingo, sixty miles distant. It looms up from the horizon like a heavy black cloud. 9th. Pass the island of Cuba, and on the 10th enter the Caribbean Sea. We passed near the island of Nevassa, a small rocky island, inhabited only by sea-fowl. They mistaking our vessel for a fowl of a larger species, came off in flocks, until our rigging was filled, and the sun almost obscured. They met with a _foul_ reception. There were eighty passengers on board, all armed. They could not resist the temptation, but wantonly mutilated the unsuspecting birds, many of which expiated with their lives the crime of confiding in strangers. One would receive a charge of shot, with which it would fly back to the island, uttering the most unharmonious screeches, when a new deputation would set off for us, many of them destined to return to the island in the same musical mood. Fortunately, we were driven along by the breeze, and they returned to their homes, and have, no doubt, spent many an evening around the family hearth, speculating upon the peculiar sensations experienced on that occasion. The enthusiasm of the passengers did not immediately subside, but they spent the afternoon in shooting at targets.

11th. Thermometer standing at 80°. We are carried along with a three-knot breeze; our ship bowing gracefully to the undulations of the sea. It being Sunday, home presents itself vividly to our imagination. 13th. Standing in for the coast of New Grenada; at 6 P.M., the captain cries out from the mast-head, “Land Ho!” We shorten sail, and on the morning of the 14th are standing in for the port of Chagres.

A most beautiful scene is spread out before us; we are making directly for the mouth of the river, the left point of the entrance being a bold, rocky promontory, surmounted by fortifications. (See Plate). The coast to the left is bold and rocky, extending a distance of five miles, and terminating in a rocky promontory, one of the points to the entrance of Navy Bay, the anticipated terminus of the Panama railroad. The coast to the right is low, stretching away as far as the eye can reach. In the background is a succession of elevations, terminating in mountains of considerable height, the valleys, as well as the crests of the hills, being covered with a most luxuriant growth of vegetation, together with the palm, cocoa-nut, and other tropical trees of the most gigantic size. As we neared the port, we passed around the steamer Falcon, which had just come to anchor, and passing on to within half a mile of the mouth of the river, we rounded to, and let go our anchor.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL. LITH. of G. W. LEWIS, III NASSAU St. N. Y. CHAGRES FROM THE ANCHORAGE. Feb. 14th 1849.]

Chapter Second.

NATIVES AND “BUNGOES”--CRESCENT CITY ARRIVES--WE SAIL INTO THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER--PREPARE FOR A FIGHT--FASHIONS AND FORTIFICATIONS--AN HONEST ALCALDE--NON-FULFILLMENT OF CONTRACTS.

Our attention was first attracted to the natives who were rowing off to us in “bungoes,” or canoes of immense size, each manned by eight, ten, or twelve natives, apparently in a state of nudity. Their manner of propelling their craft was as novel as their appearance was ludicrous. They rise simultaneously, stepping up on a high seat, and, uttering a peculiar cry, throw themselves back on their oars, and resume their former seats. This is done with as much uniformity as if they were an entire piece of machinery. In the afternoon the Crescent City came to anchor, together with several sailing vessels, bringing, in all, about one thousand passengers.

We remained outside until the 17th, when we weighed anchor and passed into the mouth, making fast to the right bank, now called the American side of the river. We found an abundance of water in the channel, but at the entrance several dangerous rocks. As this coast is subject to severe northers, it is an extremely difficult port to make. The steamers still anchor some two miles out. We found several vessels near the mouth, beached and filled.

It was amusing to see the passengers preparing to make their advent on land. It is well understood that no one started for California without being thoroughly fortified, and as we had arrived at a place, where, as we thought, there must be, at least, _some_ fighting to do, our first attention was directed to our _armor_. The revolvers, each man having at least two, were first overhauled, and the six barrels charged. These were put in our belt, which also contained a bowie knife. A brace of smaller pistols are snugly pocketed inside our vest; our rifles are liberally charged; and with a cane in hand, (which of course contains a dirk), and a _slung shot_ in our pockets, we step off and look around for the enemy.

We crossed the river to Chagres, which consists of about thirty huts constructed of reeds, and thatched with palm-leaves, the inhabitants, the most squalid set of beings imaginable. They are all good Catholics, but do not go to the Bible for the fashions. There are fig-leaves in abundance, yet they are considered by the inhabitants quite superfluous, they preferring the garments that nature gave them, sometimes, however, adding a Panama hat.

We visited the fortifications, which were in a dilapidated state, the walls fast falling to decay. The only sentinels at the time of our visit, were three goats and two children. (See Plate.) It has a commanding position, and has been a work of much strength, but the guns are now dismounted, and the inhabitants ignorant of their use. In returning from the fort, we crossed a stream where a party of _ladies_ were undressing for a bath, i. e., they were taking off their hats. We passed on, and after viewing the “lions,” returned to our vessel, not very favorably impressed with the manners or customs of the town.

We had contracted with the Alcalde for canoes to carry us up the river. The steamboat Orus, then plying on the river, having contracted to take up the Falcon’s passengers, had offered an advanced price, and secured all the canoes, including ours. Our Alcalde had been struck down to the highest bidder, and I will here say that, although many charges have been brought against the New Grenadians, they have never been accused of fulfilling a contract, especially if they could make a “_real_” by breaking it. We did not relish the idea of remaining until the canoes returned, as Chagres had the name, (and it undoubtedly deserved it,) of being the most unhealthy place in Christendom. Many of our passengers had their lives insured before starting, and there was a clause in each policy, that remaining at Chagres over night would be a forfeiture.

The trunks of the steamers’ passengers, particularly those of the Crescent City, were landed on the bank of the river, while their owners were endeavoring to secure passage up. The

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL. LITH. of G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU St. N. Y. INTERIOR OF THE CASTLE, _AT CHAGRES_.]

“bungoes” had all gone up with the Orus. There were left two or three small canoes, and the scenes of competition around these were exciting, and often ludicrous in the extreme. Now a man would contract for passage for himself and friend, and while absent to arrange some little matter preparatory to a start, some one would offer the worthy _Padrone_ (captain) a higher price, when he would immediately put the trunks of the first two on shore, and take on board those of the latter, together with their owners, and shove out into the stream. Now the first two would appear, with hands filled with refreshments for the voyage, and begin to look around for their boat. In a moment their eyes fall upon their trunks, and the truth flashes across their imagination. Now the scene of excitement begins. The boat is ordered to the shore, it don’t come, and they attempt to wade out to it. The first step convinces them of the impracticability of this expedient, as they sink into the mud to their necks. Revolvers are flourished, but they can be used by both parties, consequently are not used at all.

Chapter Third.

FIRST ATTEMPT AT BOAT BUILDING--EXCITEMENT “ON ’CHANGE”--A LAUNCH AND CLEARANCE--THE CREW--A MUTINY--QUELLED--POOR ACCOMMODATIONS--A NIGHT IN ANGER--AN ANTHEM TO THE SUN--NATURE IN FULL DRESS.

We saw but one alternative, which was, to construct a boat ourselves, and work it up the river. Upon this we decided, and purchasing the temporary berths of our vessel, soon had a boat on the stocks, 6 feet by 19, and in three days it was afloat at the side of the “Marietta,” receiving its freight. We called it the “_Minerva_,” and she was probably the first American-bottom ever launched at this port. A misfortune here befel me which I will relate somewhat minutely, as it was undoubtedly the cause of the death of a party concerned. In going out one morning to assist in the construction of the boat, I left my vest, which had a sum of money sewed up in the upper side pocket, in my berth, covered in such a manner I thought no one could discover it. I did not give it a thought during the day, but on going to my berth in the evening, I noticed the covering had been disturbed, and as my room-mates were in the habit of helping themselves to prunes, from a box in my berth, I imagined they had discovered and taken care of it. I was the more strongly impressed that this was the case from the fact that they had frequently spoken of my carelessness. I immediately saw them; they had seen nothing of it. Watches were stationed and the ship searched, but no trace of the money. A person who had had access to the cabin on that day for the first time was strongly suspected, but no trace of the money found. Our suspicions, however, were well founded, as the sequel will show. The passengers very kindly offered to make up a part of the loss, but as I had a little left I most respectfully declined its acceptance. We had about 3000 lbs. of freight and nine persons,

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL. LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N. Y. ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER CHAGRES.]

and at 2 P.M., 22d Feb., gave the word, “let go,” run up our sail, and as it was blowing a stiff breeze from the ocean, glided rapidly along up the river, our worthy captain, Dennison, and his accomplished mate, Wm. Bliss, of the “Marietta,” calling all hands on deck, and giving us three times three as we parted, to which _adios_ we responded with feeling hearts. Now, as there is a straight run of three miles, a fair wind, and nothing to do but attend to our sail and tiller, we will take a survey of craft and crew. We are freighted with trunks, shovels, pick-axes, India-rubber bags, smoked ham, rifles, camp-kettles, hard-bread, swords and cheese. Our crew, commencing at the tallest, (we had no first officer,) consisted of two brothers, Dodge, young men of intelligence and enterprise; the eldest a man of the most indomitable perseverance, the younger of the most unbounded good humor, both calculated to make friends wherever they go, and to ride over difficulties without a murmur. They had associated with them three Germans, Shultz, Eiswald, and Hush. Shultz was a young man of energy, fond of music, a good singer, gentlemanly and companionable; Eiswald, full of humor and mirth, extracting pleasure from every incident, always at his post, a fine companion and good navigator; Hush, was a small man, with exceedingly large feet; he appeared to be entirely out of his element; he was disposed to do all he could, but his limbs would not obey him; his arms appeared to be mismated; his legs, when set in motion, would each take an opposite direction, and his feet were everywhere, except where he wanted to have them. We were quite safe when he was still, but when set in motion we found him a dangerous companion. Mr. Russ, a young lawyer of New York, Mr. Cooper, an artist, also of New York, a man of energy, perseverance and genius, and one of the most efficient men of the party. Mr. Beaty, an elderly man, extremely tall and slender, and very moral and exemplary in his habits; being in feeble health, he was to act as cook for the voyage. Ninthly and lastly, myself, an extremely choleric young man, of whom delicacy forbids me to say more.

We have now arrived at the bend of the river, and as here is a spring of excellent water, we make fast and fill our water-keg. Water is obtained here for the vessels in port, by sending up small boats. It can be obtained in any quantity, and a more lovely place cannot well be conceived of. After adjusting our baggage preparatory to manning our oars, we again shoved out into the stream. We manned four oars, consequently kept a reserve. We were all fresh and vigorous, and, being much elated with the novelty of our voyage, resolved to work the boat all night. It was already quite dark, but with the aid of a lamp we kept on our course. The river here was walled up on either side by gigantic trees, their branches interchanging over our heads, almost shutting out the stars. Sometimes the branches stretching out but little above the surface of the river, were filled with water fowls, the white heron presenting a strange and most striking appearance. They would start with fright at our approach, striking wildly in the dark with their wings; some would find secure resting-places on the more elevated branches, while others would settle down through the dense foliage to the margin of the river. Innumerable bats, attracted by our light, were flitting along the surface of the river, but aside from these all nature appeared to be hushed in sleep.

We moved along with much spirit until about eleven o’clock, when there were symptoms of disaffection. Some were weary, others sleepy; some declared they would work no longer, others that the boat should not stop. We had all the premonitory symptoms of a mutiny. It was suggested that we should uncork a bottle of brandy, which was accordingly done, and it was soon _unanimously_ declared that our prospects had never appeared so flattering. I am _sure_ our boat was never propelled with such energy. I am not prepared to say that the brandy _didn’t_ have an influence. We moved along rapidly for an hour when we had a relapse of the same disaffection. We resolved to stop; but we were in a dilemma. We had left home under the impression that the Chagres river was _governed_ by alligators and anacondas, assisted by all the venomous reptiles in the “whole dire catalogue,” consequently, to run to the shore was to run right into the jaws of death, which we did not care to do at this particular time. We pulled along until we came in contact with a limb, which stretched out over the surface of the river, to which we made fast. After detailing two of the party as a watch, we stowed ourselves away as best we could. I was in a half-sitting posture--my feet hanging outside the boat, my back coming in contact with the chime of our water-keg. I tried for some time to sleep, but in vain. I tried to persuade myself that I was at home in a comfortable bed, just falling into a doze, but my back was not to be deceived in that way; and after spending two hours in my uncomfortable position, I got up. I found that my companions had been as badly lodged as myself, and all as anxious to man the oars. We were soon under way, and soon the approaching day was proclaimed by the incessant howl of the animal creation, including the tiger, leopard, cougar, monkeys, &c., &c., accompanied by innumerable parrots and other tropical birds. All nature seemed to be in motion. The scene is indelibly impressed upon my memory. The trees on the margin of the river were of immense size, clothed to their tops with morning-glories and other flowers of every conceivable hue, their tendrils stooping down, kissing the placid bosom of the river. Birds of the most brilliant plumage were flying through the air, in transports of joy. All nature seemed to hail the sun with bursts of rapture. Everything appeared to me so new and strange. My transition from a northern winter to this delightful climate, seemed like magic, and appeared like a scene of enchantment, like the dawning of a new creation.