Chapter Twenty-seventh.

PASSAGE DOWN THE SAN JUAN RIVER--CASTILIAN RAPIDS--THE “DIRECTOR”--ARRIVAL AT SAN JUAN--BOARDED BY A POSSE OF NEGROES--BRITISH PROTECTORATE--PHILANTHROPY OF GREAT BRITAIN--HER MAGNANIMOUS AND DISINTERESTED CONDUCT TOWARDS THE NATIONS OF THE EARTH--NICARAGUA GRACIOUSLY REMEMBERED--A HUNT FOR A SOVEREIGN--A FULL-GROWN KING DISCOVERED--HIS DIPLOMACY--INVINCIBILITY--AMUSEMENTS AND CORONATION--HIS FIRST PAIR OF PANTALOONS--HAIL “KING OF THE MUSQUITO COAST”!!!--ALL HAIL JAMACA I.!!!--“HEAR! HEAR!!!”

We were soon on board, and passing around a point, were floating down the San Juan river at the rate of five knots. After a two hour’s run our boatmen unshipped their oars, and commenced gambling; we were borne along by the current, at the rate of two miles an hour, until toward evening, when the oars were again manned. At nine in the evening, the roar of the water admonished us that we were approaching the Castilian rapids, and we came to anchor. The natives have a dread of this rapid, and in passing it feel that their lives are in imminent peril; in this case, however, a party of boatmen forgetting themselves in sleep, passed over, and in the morning found themselves entangled in the bushes, along the margin of the river. We descended the rapid, finding the steamboat “Director,” in the act of ascending; she was making her first passage up, preparatory to taking her place on the lake for the transportation of passengers, in connection with Vanderbilt’s Line of steamships. The passage up the rapid was very difficult, owing to the strong current, being about six knots; she however succeeded, and is now plying on the lake. We passed down, and at two the next morning came to anchor in the harbor of San Juan.

At an early hour in the morning we were boarded by a posse of negroes, whose mission it was to search our baggage for firearms; they succeeded in finding two rusty guns belonging to our padrone, which they carried off in triumph. It is well known that this harbor is under the protectorate of Great Britain, and our worthy visitors were subjects of Her Majesty, as well as of His Majesty of the “Mosquito Coast.” They seem in fear of an army from Grenada, hence this precaution.

The town consists of about fifty thatched houses, tenanted by French, English, German, Spanish, and Negroes. Things here are, in a measure, _reverso_; a negro is agent for Great Britain--his boots are blacked by a white man. We found a British man-of-war in port, which is kept here to enforce their _wholesome regulations_.

The philanthropy of Great Britain has become proverbial. There is scarcely a port on the European continent that has not heard the music of her cannon, and been relieved of its surplus treasures. Three-fourths of a century ago, she _succeeded_ in establishing, on the American continent, the government of the United States, and a few years thereafter voluntarily offered the use of a fleet and army at New Orleans, a part of which was _used_, the balance returned. Mexico has also been a recipient of her kind attentions. She has taken possession of the richest mines in Mexico, and worked them _gratuitously_, sending off millions under the protection of the “red cross of St. George.” Her sappers and miners have found their way to Peru and Chili, as well as other divisions on the Pacific coast of South America, the mines of all of which have been taken possession of, and worked on the same _accommodating_ terms as those of Mexico. She sent a fleet _free of charge_ to the Argentine Republic, took possession of her ports, and _forced_ the navigation of her rivers. Texas, after emerging from her glorious struggle for liberty, was offered the kind wing of protection; Great Britain even going so far as to offer her assistance in maintaining a separate republic, thinking annexation to the United States inexpedient. She visited China in the capacity of doctor, and most magnanimously forced her prescription down their unwilling throats. Her philanthropic eye next took a survey of Central America. Here she found governments of that _odious_ form called republican, that of Nicaragua having an extent of sea coast, with accessible ports, and numerous rivers.

No one, up to this time, had interfered with the jurisdiction

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL. ON STONE BY J. CAMERON LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y. SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA.]

of Nicaragua, nor was her claim to this coast ever disputed. Great Britain, in her superior wisdom, however, decided that as Nicaragua had no particular use for seaports, they would be better in other hands, even if _she herself_ should be _compelled_ to assume the protectorate. The first step necessary to accomplish this magnanimous object was to find a suitable _sovereign_. She is supposed to have embarked in the search with her characteristic zeal and energy; it is presumed that the first inquiries were made at San Juan. At first the prospect of success was not flattering, but fortunately inquiries were made of a native Indian, who very innocently informed Her Britannic Majesty’s agent that his chief was sojourning along the “Mosquito Coast.”

What could have been more opportune? This was precisely the individual sought; here was a great man, a chief, in actual possession of the country, i. e., he had actually hunted ’possums there for a period of six months! The matter was immediately decided upon, and arrangements made to pay the monarch a visit on the following day, preparatory to his coronation. Artizans were employed in the manufacture of presents suitable for one who seemed pointed out by the finger of Providence to wear the “purple and ermine.” Tin pans were immediately transformed into crowns and collars, sardine boxes into breast-plates and stars, pill-boxes into ear and finger-rings, and “extinguishers” into ornaments for the nose. These, after a revision by chamois and soap-stone, were safely boxed, that they might not be tarnished by the touch of vulgar hands. A demijohn was filled with rum--as was supposed, to prevent his _Majesty_ from fainting under the operation of putting on _his first pair_ of pantaloons.

Early on the following morning, the ship having been ordered to drop along down the coast, the party were in motion under the pilotage of the Indian above mentioned. What momentous results sometimes attend the acts of individuals in the humble walks of life! This poor Indian, having been driven to the shore by hunger, had, while making a meal of raw fish, imparted a word, which single word was the means of bringing forth to the world a full-grown king. What were the feelings of this native, as he cut his way through the chaparrals? Had he aspirations? No doubt he had! In his wild delirium of pleasure, he, no doubt, dreamed of a canoe of his own, and a raw hide to sleep on; instead of going naked, as he had done all his life, he might have a red bandana to tie around his neck; he thought of abundance of broiled lizard, with plantain cooked in ’possum fat for dessert. With such bright visions in the future, it is not astonishing that, in wading swamps and cutting through chaparrals, he distanced those under his pilotage.

Nor was there a want of zeal on the part of Her Britannic Majesty’s agent. He too had aspirations. He was on a mission which, if successful, must result in incalculable benefit to the world in general, and to Her Britannic Majesty’s government _in particular_. If successful, knighthood was the least he could expect, with the prospect of a niche, eventually, in Westminster Abbey.

Never were mortals more eager for immortality, nor was it ever more clearly within their reach; for even now, at this point in the drama, the very dogs of his _Majesty_ seemed to proclaim it--the _royal_ encampment was in sight. The party deployed into a single file, and prepared to approach _the presence_. They took the _monarch_ by surprise; he was stretched out at full length, on a “highly-scented” raw hide, under the shade of a palm-tree, as naked as he came into the world. He was amusing himself by trying to “get up” a fight between a parrot and a young monkey; his squaw was broiling a couple of lizards or _guanas_, and roasting plantains for dinner.

The interview was at first embarrassing, but after consulting the demijohn, they seemed imbued with a more fraternizing _spirit_, and commenced conversation on the subject of empire, and the prerogative of kings. Her Britannic Majesty’s agent felt himself a man of importance, and at first seemed somewhat patronizing; but the _monarch_ had consulted the demijohn too often to be outdone, and, as a proof of his invincibility, he exhibited a huge turtle, which had fallen a victim to his _machet_; he had climbed a tree that none of his men could climb, and caught sixteen “’possums,” all hanging by the same tail from the same limb; he had taken his biggest dog by the tail, and swung him around his head three times, and declared he would do it again for their amusement. “Carlo” was immediately seized by the tail, but feeling a little sensitive, he curled up, bit

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL. ON STONE BY J. CAMERON LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y. THE HARBOUR AT SAN JUAN, _NICARAGUA_.]

his master, and escaped. This led to a spirited foot-race, and as “Carlo” dodged, the _monarch_ slipped, his head coming in contact with the root of a tree. He seemed _discouraged_, and made no effort to regain his feet. The Englishman felt that he had committed a _faux pas_ in allowing him free access to the demijohn, and resolved to defer negotiations until the following day. He immediately repaired to the shore, and hoisted a signal for the ship’s boat.

On the following morning, the boat was again sent ashore, with an invitation for the _monarch_ to visit Her Majesty’s ship. Feeling as individuals will feel _next day_, he _graciously_ accepted the invitation. A detail of what transpired on board has never been made public, _reporters_ having been excluded. In the afterpart of the day an unusual demonstration was made, flags were displayed, cannon fired, and as the band struck up “Hail to the Chief,” an individual was seen descending the side of the ship, with a tin crown on his head, and a pair of red flannel pantaloons under his arm. On reaching the boat he took his position astride a barrel of rum, and moved toward the shore in triumph, having been crowned “King of the Mosquito Coast.” All hail, Jamaca I.!!! It is well known that Great Britain immediately recognized the government, and assumed the protectorate; hence the presence of the “red cross” at San Juan.

The distance from San Juan to Realejo is about three hundred miles. Passengers going the Nicaragua route now take a steamboat at San Juan, which runs up to the Castilian Rapids; then, after a portage of half a mile, another steamboat takes them up the river to San Carlos; thence across Lake Nicaragua to Virgin Bay. Then by pack-mules they are taken to San Juan del Sud, on the Pacific. The distances on the river and lake are about equal, being about seventy-five miles each, and from twelve to fifteen miles by land. There is every facility for crossing here, there being several steamboats plying on the river and lake. Steamships enter the mouth of the San Juan River, and the river boats come along side, consequently passengers incur no expense in the transfer, and are not obliged to land, as the small steamboats take them immediately up the river. This route has the advantage, in distance, over the Panama route, of about one thousand miles; still, the passage from San Francisco to New York has, as yet, been accomplished in the shortest time by way of Panama.

Now, dear reader, having finished my business here, I am ready to return. I will not trouble you to make the journey back to Realejo in a cart, but as I promised to accompany you, we will take one _psychological_ leap, and salute our national flag in the main plaza of San Francisco.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL. ON STONE BY J. CAMERON LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y. CASTLE AT ACAPULCO.]