Part 1
HANDBOOK ON DRESS AND CLOAK CUTTING,
BY CHAS. HECKLINGER.
1884.
NEW YORK: PETER DE BAUN, PRINTER, 101 AND 103 FULTON STREET.
Entered according to an Act of Congress in the year 1884, by
CHARLES HECKLINGER,
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
PREFACE.
The following pages contain the author’s Improved System of Dress and Cloak Cutting, fully explained, with the intention of helping those students who, desirous to follow this branch of industry, are met on the very threshold by a difficulty—the choice of a suitable System.
The System given has been found to give the greatest security in its results, with the least trouble, it being easy to learn, readily used, and gives the greatest satisfaction to the large number of those using it. Everything in illustrating and explaining has been omitted which might tend to complicate or retard the student in acquiring it. Every point needed to make it clear has been carefully put down—in its illustrations, in the simple description, and in grouping the separate articles in their correct places—making it at once easy to comprehend and perfect as a whole.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM.
Most Systems of proportion, thus far issued, are projected on the breast-measure. It will be evident, on investigating the proportions of the human figure, that a System based only on one size of the body, and that its width, can never lead to the best results.
[Illustration]
When the height and width are equal it is immaterial which we use. But this is only the case on normal sizes, from 34 to 38 breast, as all deviations from these sizes are different in their proportions of heights to the widths.
The problem to be solved in using a proportionate system is to arrange the lengths so that they agree with a certain breast size and use it for the heights.
In practice we find that the average forms, measuring from 34 to 38 breast, require and can be cut by the full breast-measure, as the lengths agree, in the majority of cases, with this size; but in larger and smaller sizes this breast-measure will either be too small or too large, therefore, in drafting any other sizes than those indicated, we must use the quantities as given in the following Table, as set opposite the full breast-measure, in order that the pattern in its length may be of correct size, and neither too small or too large.
Table of Sizes.
=======+===============+======= | SIZE TO DRAFT | BREAST.| ONE-HALF | WAIST. |BREAST-MEASURE.| -------+---------------+------- 30 | 15½ | 22 31 | 15⅞ | 22½ 32 | 16¼ | 23 33 | 16¾ | 23½ 34 | 17¼ | 24 35 | 17⅝ | 24½ 36 | 18 | 25 37 | 18½ | 25½ 38 | 19 | 26 39 | 19½ | 26½ 40 | 20 | 27 41 | 20¼ | 28 42 | 20¾ | 29 43 | 21⅛ | 30 44 | 21⅝ | 31½ 45 | 21 | 33 46 | 21⅞ | 34½ 47 | 22¼ | 36 48 | 22¾ | 37½ 49 | 23 | 38½ 50 | 23¼ | 39 -------+---------------+-------
In considering the human body it must be allowed that sufficient and marked characteristics exist between a young girl and the full-grown woman—the slender, and the large, fleshy form. All these tend to establish that the first elements of a good System for constructing garments is a good proportionate standard.
[Illustration]
In strict accordance with this we have given diagrams, illustrating the system by which the art of cutting is thoroughly attained; we also give the system as it should be used in drafting by measure.
Table of Sizes for Children.
====+========+========+=========== AGE.| BREAST.| WAIST. | LENGTH OF | | | BACK TO | | | NATURAL | | | WAIST. ----+--------+--------+----------- 2 | 22 | 22 | 9 3 | 22¾ | 22¼ | 9½ 4 | 23½ | 22½ | 10 5 | 24¼ | 22¾ | 10½ 6 | 25 | 23 | 11 7 | 25¾ | 23¼ | 11½ 8 | 26½ | 23½ | 12 9 | 27¼ | 23¾ | 12½ 10 | 28 | 24 | 13 11 | 28¾ | 24¼ | 13½ 12 | 29½ | 24½ | 14 13 | 30¼ | 24¾ | 14½ 14 | 31 | 25 | 15 15 | 32 | 25 | 15½ ----+--------+--------+-----------
[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
THE MEASURES.
The measures required are few, and only such as give correct results (See Fig. 1).
Have a tape which fastens around the waist in such a manner that it will be level.
Measure from socket bone at top of back, point O, to waist I below the tape to B, for the highest part of hip, and to the full length of garment wanted.
Take next the width of back from E to D, being careful to see whether the dress worn has this width in the correct place. Should it be either too narrow or too wide modify your measure as seems right.
Take the measure around the arm-hole; then move the arm forward to allow you to put the tape directly under the arm to seam of sleeve at F, and measure down to bottom of tape at J.
Next, put the tape under the arm, close up, and measure the length of the sleeve down to the wrist.
Turn to Fig. 2, and measure, as shown, from back of neck, point O, past the front of arm, to bottom of tape at J. This measure must be taken easy, and should run straight down in front of arm.
Measure next from front of arm to centre of back. To take this measure, a little square, having a tape attached, is very handy to use.
Take the breast-measure over the fullest part of the bosom and shoulder blades, then the waist-measure, always taken close, and the hip-measure.
These are all the measures required for a dress-waist, a jacket, or a long garment. For a skirt we take the length on the side, from the hip down to the floor. For a circular take the width around the shoulders.
FIG. 3 AND 4. THE WAIST PATTERN.
Commence by drawing line O on the edge of a sheet of paper from point O to F, and one line C at right angles with it from O to N.
From O go down three-fourths of an inch for the actual top of back.
From O to C is one-quarter of the breast-measure, which for a 36 bust would be 9 inches, and from C over to 16 draw line D (see Fig. 4) at right angles with the back line.
Next, measure from ¾, or the top of back down to F, the length of back, from socket bone to the natural waist and from F draw a line over to the front at T.
From F go in 1½ inch, and draw a line for the centre of the back, from ¾ at top to 1½ at the bottom.
From O over on the top line, place 2 inches to the point marked ⅛. This will be about right for all medium sizes. For large sizes, over 40 breast, make it 2¼ inches to 2½ inches and for sizes under 30 breast-measure let it be 1½ to 1¾ inches. It will make no difference in the fit what this width may be, as it only affects the appearance of the shoulder-seam. A little practice, however, will enable any one to apply the right width.
In the middle, between O and E (see Fig. 4), fix point B, and in the centre, between B and E, locate point C, and draw lines B and G from both points.
Starting at E, measure over to S one-third of the breast, which is 6 inches for a 36; and add to it one inch, which fixes S; and from S to H place one-fourth, or 4½ inches. All fractions and divisions that we use in explanation are based on the breast-measure, and are found already divided on the square.
At S and H draw lines up, as shown. Where lines S-J and B-J cross, begin by drawing another to the top, at A.
Now, curve from ¾ to A, and from A to G, which last point is one-half inch above J. Commencing at G curve past J to R, going a trifle inside of straight line, then from R past X to V.
From R draw a straight line to 1½, and curve the back seam from R by going only a little inside of straight line at 19, thence to 2. Point 2 is 1½ inches from centre 1½. From 2 to 1 place 1 inch, then curve the side-body from 19 to 1.
Next, measure from the centre of the back at Z, on the line under the arm, to get the point D in front. This should be one-half of the breast-measure (18). Point D being placed, draw a line from there up and down to N and to U, at right angles with the line under the arm.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
To form the neck we take one-sixth of the breast and place it from N to P, and, using N as a pivot, sweep from P to 15. One-quarter inch inside of front line at 15 we start to draw the curved front line to the bottom, by going outside of D one-half inch and coming back to straight line again, near U.
One and a half inches below the waist-line, at U, draw a line from T over to 12.
From P to B draw a straight line; then take the length of the back shoulder, from A to G, and place the same from P towards 17, and where this reaches is point 17.
Having located 17, curve from it above the line of shoulder at 21, and drop one-fourth inch below it at 20; and, also, from 20 draw the arm-hole past 18 to X; but do not quite touch A, and drop below V one-fourth inch.
Point V is midway between S and H; from it draw a straight line to 4; curve a little on both sides of it; that is, starting from V, keep following the line for two inches, then gradually separate towards the waist-line, so that you will have two curves, which will be apart one-fourth inch near waist, but coming together again at 4.
About one-half inch more forward than the middle, between 19 and V, fix point X; and in the centre, between 1 and 4, locate 3; then draw a line from X to 3 and curve it.
In the middle, between H and D, mark point 12, and in the middle, between 12 and H, point 13.
Measure the distance from front, at U, to 1, and from 2 to 1½; on this draft it will be 16 inches. Now deduct from this the size of waist, 12 inches, and the remainder, 4 inches, must be taken out in darts. We put them in as follows: From U to 5 place a distance of 2 inches for all average medium sizes; from 5 to 6 is one dart of 2 inches, and between the darts, from 6 to 7, is three-fourths inch, then from 7 to 8 is another dart of 2 inches.
Take two-thirds of the distance under the arm and place it upwards from 7 towards 13 for the height of the back dart, and let the front one start one-half inch lower; then draw them, as shown, from 22 and 23 to 9, 10, 11 and 12.
Now, at one-fourth inch below 1, curve the lower line past 3, and a trifle above it, to 12, drop point 12 a little below the line; also drop 10 a little below it; from 9 to T remain on the line straight across.
The draft is now finished by proportion, and we can assure our readers that, with the use of the sizes on our Proportionate Table, it is applicable to all forms, the manner of drafting remaining the same in all cases.
All our figures, unless otherwise stated, are drafted without seams. We do this because it is far easier to add the amount necessary on different material than to draft it on the pattern.
THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.
The measures we shall use are the following: Breast, 36; waist, 24; length of natural waist, 15; height under arm, 7; front of arm, 10½; width of back, 6½; front length, 18½.
In drafting this we drop proportion altogether and use only the measures as stated above to get all points on the draft. All the lines and curves will come out in similar manner to the previous draft. Fig. 4 starts by drawing a line O-F and O-N; go down from O three-fourths of an inch, and in from O, to A, two inches, and curve from ¾ to A.
From ¾ down, measure the length of back 15 inches to F, and at F draw a line over to the front and go in 1½ inches and mark a point.
From ¾ to this last point draw a straight line for the centre of the back.
Up from F measure the height under arm 7 inches to E, and from E draw a line to the front.
From Z to D is one-half of the breast-measure, and draw the front line up and down. Also measure from Z to S, the actual width of the back, and from Z to H, the front of the arm, 10½ inches, or the blade measure which is taken from the front of the arm over the blade to the centre of the back. At S and H draw lines up.
In the middle between O and E mark point B, and in the middle between B and E point C, and draw the lines across as shown. (See Fig. 4.)
From where the lines cross at J, draw one across to top of back at A, and curve from A to G which point is one-half inch above J.
Beginning at G curve arm-hole past J, a trifle inside of line between J and R, and from thence to V. This last is midway between S and H.
Make the bottom of the back 1½ inches wide. This is only a medium, as it can be made 1 inch or 2 inches, which only places the seam either further back or more to the front. Then from R draw a straight line to 1½ and slightly curve a line drawn to 19 and to 2. Between 19 and 2 curve more towards centre of back. A few trials will enable you to make a nice shaped curve.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
From 2 on back to side body at 1 is 1 inch, and curve from 19 to 1.
From V, straight down, draw a line to 4 and curve a trifle on either side of it, also separate side-body from X to 3. Point X is midway between line R and V and the distance between 3 and 4 is about ½ inch more than X to V.
Take ⅙ of the breast, equal to 3 inches, and place it from point N to P and use point N as a pivot and sweep from P to 15.
At a point on waist-line directly under H, measure up past P, shoulder point, the front length, which is in our measure 18½, deducting the width of top of back, and wherever it reaches to is point P. This may, sometimes, when the person is erect, reach above the line; and again, on hollow or stooping shoulders, be below it. Wherever it reaches is the shoulder point, and when it goes above we sweep at a point above N even with shoulder for neck, and of course, should it be below the line, at a point below N, so that the neck will keep its shape to harmonize with the height of shoulder point.
[Illustration]
Wherever point P is located by measure, above or below, or on the line, start to draw the line to B, on back, for height of shoulder, and place the width of back shoulder from A to G on this line from P to get point 17. Then from 17 curve above it about one-quarter inch to P, and also draw the arm-hole, going inside of line H, but never over one-half inch, to V, as shown on the diagram. Drop a trifle from 17 to 20.
At the front, draw the line starting inside of straight line of 15 one-quarter of an inch, gradually curving out till at D we have one-half inch curve, and thence going in again to the line at waist, point U. From U go down 1¼ inch to T, and draw a line across to 12.
Measure the distance F to U, leaving out the opening between 1 and 2, which in this case will be 16 inches. Now, one-half of waist-measure, 12 inches, from 16 leaves 4 inches, which must be taken out in darts.
To produce the darts in the right place we proceed as follows: first locate a point in the middle between H and D which gives 12, and in the centre between H and 12, another which is marked 13.
From U to 5 place 2 inches, as we never wish to have the first dart any nearer to the front, then from 5 to 6 is one dart of 2 inches or one-half of the amount to be taken out. Between the darts leave three-fourths inch, and then place another dart of 2 inches from 7 to 8. In the centre of each dart mark a point and draw lines from these to 12 and 13.
One-third of the height under arm from 13 locates 23 while 22 is one-half inch lower, and starting from each of the last points curve the darts as shown.
It will be seen that they are drawn very pointed at top, and that below the waist-line they run straight down without any spring being given.
From 1 curve to 3 and 4; but between 3 and 4 it runs a trifle above waist-line, and then from 4 to 12 on lower line. Point 10 is a little lower than the line, while it rests on line, from 9 to T.
This finishes the draft by measure, and we have only to add that this, as well as the preceding, requires the adding of seams according to material used.
FIG. 5. LARGE SIZE WAIST.
In using this by measure, draft in the same way as explained in another article, the difference being only that the measure will be larger. We will explain this by the Proportionate Method: Breast, 44 inches; waist, 31½; drafting size, 21⅝, or equal to a breast-measure of 43¼ inches.
It should be understood that this last size of breast is used only for the height, while the original breast-measure must always be used for the width.
First draw line O-C, mark point O, and draw a line at right angles with O-C, to A; from O go down three-fourths inch to point 7, the top of back. From 7 to C is the length of the waist, 15½ or 16 inches.
[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
At the waist go in 1½ inch from C; draw a straight line from 7 to 1½ for the centre of the back.
From O go down to point B, one-quarter of the drafting size, which is, in this case, 10⅝ inches; this is one-quarter of 43⅛, as on large sizes the length is reduced in the shoulders to the drafting size. Now draw a line from B to H, and one from C to J.
Point D is in the centre between O and B; then from D draw a line over to K.
From B to G is one-third and 1 inch, equal to 8⅛ inches, and from G draw a line up.
From G to E is one-fourth, equal to 5¼ inches; here also draw a line up.
From N, on the back line, to H, place one-half of the full breast-measure, which is 22 inches; and at this point draw a line up and down, thus making the front line A-J.
From O to 6 is one-eighth of breast, 2⅝ inches. From 7 curve to 6, for the top of back, at neck; from K to 6 draw a line, and at 6 begin to curve the line for shoulder, raising it one-half inch above K to 8. Also commence to curve the arm-hole from 8, going inside of line one-eighth inch at 16, and thence past 15 and 4 to E.
Midway between K and G is point 16. Start to make the seam for the back from 16, past 17 to 1; the last point is 1½ inch from 1½. When it is desired to produce a narrow shoulder, raise the seam above 8 one-half inch, and back from 8 fully 1 inch, and draw the arm-hole from 18 to 16.
To draw the first side-body, place 1 inch from 1 to 2, and curve the line from 16 to 17; thence separate and curve nicely to 2.
In the centre, between G and E, mark point 4, and draw a line straight down, which will be 5; and, in the middle, between 17 and 4, fix point 15. Also take the distance from 2 to 5, and fix a point in the centre, which will be 3, and then draw a line from 15 to 3; curve a little on each side of these two lines, as shown.
In producing the front, be very careful to follow the instructions as here given: From A to F is one-sixth of the breast-measure, 3½ inches; and the same amount from A to I; now, sweep from F to I, using A as pivot; from F to D draw a straight line, and place the same distance, as on the back shoulder from 6 to 8, on to F to 9, and then curve it a little above the line at 20; finish the arm-hole by curving it from 19 downwards past E. It will be seen that it runs over and in front of line E, and one-fourth inch below breast-line at 4.
For the front edge, commence one-fourth inch inside of straight line at I, and go gradually out to one-half inch at H, and in again until it touches line at J and 14.
Now to manage to fix the darts: Measure from 1½ to 1-2, to 3, and 3 to J; this will give 19½ inches. But as the measure is only 15¾, one-half of 31½, we take out the difference between these two widths in darts. This amounts to 2¾ inches, which we take out in two darts of 1⅞ inch each.
First find the centre between H and E, which fixes point R; and the centre, also, between R and E, which gives point P. This first dart commences 2¼ inches from J. Then put in one dart of 1⅞; inch. Between the darts, let the space be 1 inch, and then place the width of the other dart, which is also 1⅞ inch, and fix a centre in each dart.
From R draw a line through the centre of the first dart, and from P one through the centre of the second; then curve the lines of both darts like those on the diagram. The darts are started two-thirds of the distance up under the arm, but the front one is made one-half inch shorter.