Part 4

First draw the straight line like O-B. Lay the fore-part of the pattern against this line, touching at the centre of the breast, B, and trace along it at the front from 1 to the bottom at 3. Next move the pattern back one-half inch to B. Trace along the arm-hole without any allowances, but on the top of shoulder add one-fourth inch, also a trifle at neck. On the side-seam, from 15 to 20, add one-fourth inch; then lay the finished side-body on top of the front, touching point 15, and at the waist at 20, and finish the balance from 20 to 22 by the side-body. Now from the top of the shoulder-point, by the bottom, point 22, sweep the bottom to the front at B. From 3 to B draw a straight line, and for a double-breasted jacket, as the Figure given, add on to the front, at B, 3 inches, at waist 2½ inches, at the bottom 3 inches, and shape it as shown. At the bottom, after it has been curved by a sweep, straighten it one-half inch above the sweep in the centre. Instead of two darts at the back only one is used, as shown, and this one can be increased one-half inch, and a cut is also taken out under the arm from 16 to 17.

It is evident that two darts can be put in as well as one, or when the same is intended for plush goods the darts can be left out altogether without altering the balance in any manner.

To produce a collar for this jacket draw a line from C, where it is intended to roll, to E, which is one-half inch from curved line of neck; then drop down from this line at 13 to 11 one inch and curve the break, as shown from 11 to E. From 11 to 12 is ¾ inch; curve this also to neckline at F, and thence along the neck to the front. From 11 to 13 make the part of collar which is to turn over 1½ to 2 inches wide, and shape to the front at G.

Sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already explained.

FIGS. 25 AND 26. WALKING COAT.

[Illustration: Fig. 25.]

By using a sack pattern, cut to the measure, a walking-coat can be cut in the most ready manner.

The back is the same as a sack-jacket. We only measure from the top down to the length of open skirt A. From here add the lap for pleats; single pleats require only 1¼ inch; box pleats, according to size, 2 to 4 inches.

The side-body is cut off at a length to correspond to 2 on back, plus one-half inch, and curved up some towards side seam.

The front is made as long as the side-body, and the bottom swept from the shoulder-point. When cut it will leave the skirt in pieces as 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Now take these pieces and lay them down, closing at hip, so that the opening will be no more at bottom than at top; they lay close together at 12, 13 and 14.

Now draw along the skirt at back from 4 to 15. From 4 draw towards 5, raise one-half inch above the pattern to 10, curving pattern at front.

Put in a dart at 7. From 11 to 16 trace along the front, and also along the bottom. Add the pleat behind.

The side-body in this Figure is laid in a closing position at side, point 2, to show that the seam must have a continuous curve from 1 and 2 to the front.

The distance from 1 and 2 to 3, and from there to the front, is noted, and the skirt from 4 to 5-7 and 11 should be just the same with 1 inch more added, which is pressed in before the skirt is seamed on to the fore-part. It will be noticed that in laying the pieces of the of the skirt together they close at 14, 12 and 13, but at the top and bottom they are separated, equal distances, the cut at 7 reduces one opening, and 1 inch fullness equalizes the amount the fullness is greater at 9 and forward. The addition for single and double-breasted is made by adding on in front of the fore-part and also on to the skirt: for a single-breasted 1 inch is enough, but for a double-breasted from 2 to 3 inches is required.

[Illustration: Fig. 26.]

FIG. 27. DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.

[Illustration: Fig. 27.]

Commence this by drafting on the same principle as all drafts—by the Proportionate System—by drawing line from O to F. From O go down to 11 three-fourths of an inch, and to 10 2 inches; from 11 to 10 curve the top of the back, and measure from the top of the back, at 11, to C, the length of waist 15 inches, to D 18 inches and to F the full length, 32 inches; at C, O and F draw right angle lines across. From C to the back is 1½ inch; Draw a line from 11 to 1½, and one from 1½ to F; make the width of back from 1½ to 2 inches wide. From O to B is one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches in a 36 inch breast, and A is midway between these two points; draw lines over from A and B. From B to G is one-third of breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches; from G to H is one-fourth of breast, or 4½ inches. From Y to J is one-half of breast, 18 inches; draw lines up from G, H and J, also down from J to N.

Where line A crosses line G, at M, draw another line from M to 10; raise one-half inch above M to V, and draw a curved line from 10 to V.

Commence to curve the arm-hole from V to M and H, dropping one-fourth inch below breast-line at 15.

In the centre, between M and G, begin to draw the back to 2 at waist, and from there, with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance from F to Z will be about equal to that from C to 2.

Go in from 2 to 3 one inch and shape the side-body from line under the arm to 3 and S, where it touches the back; make the side-body any width desired, say 2 inches to 14, the same from 3 to 4, curve the seam under the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to give it ease over the hips; also draw the curve for the piece under the arm from 14 to 4 and 20. From S curve up to 21, which latter point is 1½ inch above the line S-18. Point 20 is on the same level as 21, the line runs straight across to the front seam which runs down from 5. The piece under the arm is 1½ inch wide at top, from 14 to 15, and 2 inches from 4 to 5; this should be shaped somewhat like draft.

From L to I is one-sixth of the breast, 3 inches, and the same down from L to T. Curve the neck; from I to A draw a straight line, and place the length of shoulder from 10 to V on the front from I to U; shape the front of shoulder by dropping below line at U one-half inch, and raise slightly above it at 12.

Finish drawing the arm-hole from U to H, going out beyond the line H at 13 about one half inch.

Draw from T, at the front, outside of J one-half inch, thence to K at waist, going inside of front line one-fourth inch at K and N to point P at bottom.

In the middle, between J and H, locate a point for the dart, and in the centre, between this and H, fix another point for the back dart. From K to 1½, across the waist, measure the distance, taking out 1 inch between 2 and 3, which will be 16 inches; deduct the size of waist, 12 inches, from 16 inches and the remainder, 4 inches, is to be taken out in darts; therefore, put in two darts of 2 inches each. From K to 9 is 2 inches; from 9 to 8 is one dart; from 8 to 7, between the darts, is three-fourths inch; from 7 to 6 is another dart of 2 inches. About 2½ inches below the waist-line begin to draw the darts past 9, 8, 7 and 6, nearly straight down from waist-line. From 21 curve lower seam to 19, 18 and N; at N it is one-half inch below straight line.

Make the lapel straight on its inside edge, and 2 inches at waist, and 3 inches at centre of breast, in width, and shape like Figure.

To draw the skirt lay a straight-edge from 3 to S against the side-body, and draw a line to R, then curve it about one-half inch more over the hips. Regulate the length by the back. From S draw the upper edge of the skirt to within one-half inch of side-body at 21, thence to N; from N forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down; also put in two cuts on the hip, of one-half inch each, and the skirt will be right to fit the body. Should it, on measuring, be a little too wide, take the extra width off in front; whatever overlaps on the side-body will equalize the loss of the darts.

A flap can be put on over the hips. An ordinary coat-collar will suit this jacket.

FIG. 28. TRAVELING ULSTER.

[Illustration: Fig. 28.]

A Spring and Fall garment for traveling or outdoor wear is represented by this Figure and is a reduced copy of the pattern of a 38 size breast, and can be readily enlarged by simply using inches for the numbers marked upon it. The draft is a close-fitting traveling paletot, double-breasted, and buttons down to the bottom, and has a collar which turns over, as represented by Fig. 5. This collar should be well stretched with the hot iron, at the lower edge, before it is sewed on, in order that it may cling around the neck nicely. This way of making and sewing on a collar is far superior to the usual custom of dressmakers, and is always adopted by tailors in making jackets or other ladies’ garments.

The back has at its centre, below the waist, a lap, which can be put in a box-pleat or lapped over like a coat, and at the side it has a simple pleat.

The front has a large dart cut in one piece—that is, like a sack coat, having the skirt attached to the body—but the side-body is sewed in as cut, in a separate piece. Over the hips pockets are put in covered with liberal flaps.

For use as a traveling garment it will be well to make it out of waterproof cloth, but it makes a handsome street paletot when made out of diagonal cloth or melton.

FIGS. 29 AND 30. NEWMARKET.

[Illustration: Fig. 29.]

This style of Newmarket has only one dart. Proceed to make a full size draft in accordance with the directions. First draw a straight line O, and mark off the number of inches down from O, as given on the Figure; at these points draw lines across, and on these lines mark the number of inches as given, in like manner proceed to draw each part of the garment.

[Illustration: Fig. 30.]

FIG. 31. RIDING-HABIT.

[Illustration: Fig. 31.]

The demand and orders for these garments have, so far, been considerable in the leading houses, and a few hints are always seasonable, not only to those who make them for the highest fashionables, but especially to those who are located in smaller towns and who are not often called upon to make this style of garment. There are now many ladies who have a horse at their disposal, and whose chief enjoyment is in equestrian exercise, and it is quite necessary, not only for the tailor but the dressmaker, to know how a riding-habit should be cut and made. At one time it was thought impossible for anyone but a tailor to make a stylish riding-habit, but now many ladies have them made by their dressmakers.

[Illustration]

The first thing necessary is a good measure of the form, by which a correct pattern must be cut, as a well-setting, comfortable riding-habit cannot be made without it.

The jacket has a few peculiarities:

There should be no seam down the middle of the back; the front, side-body and back are cut one inch below the natural waist.

The skirt and back form a pleat like the skirt-pleat of a coat.

The buttons should be small and round. The sleeves are tightly buttoned up at wrist.

The inside of jacket should be lined with silk, carefully wadded and stitched in close rows. It should have a belt inside, stitched to each seam at waist, which is to close it tight to the form.

The Figures we give show to advantage some of these peculiarities. The draft is a good model of such a habit, and is universally adopted, being both suitable and elegant. It “looks quite English” and very pretty. A plain standing collar of white linen should be worn with it and a gentleman’s cravat of black silk, or if the jacket is made with the lapels turning down a flat scarf is more appropriate.

[Illustration]

We add to this an article published in “Munster’s Gazette of Fashion” on riding-habits. This will enable our readers to be more fully posted, not only on what is worn here but what is in keeping with London styles:

“We have devoted one of the plates issued with the current number of our publication to the representation of the newest and most fashionable style of a lady’s riding-habit in wear. The lengthening of the waist, which we reported last year, has been maintained, although it has not been increased; and the jacket-skirt is about the same in length. It is fastened up to the throat by buttons and holes, and with a small stand-collar rounded off at the front. The jacket-skirt is cut in one piece instead of two, as heretofore, and at front runs off at an angle from the bottom of the front edge of the fore-part, and is lined with cloth, or interlined with some article of substance, to give it a firmness. The edges of the back skirts terminate in a point at the bottom. A small square tab, with two holes in it, is sewn across under the bottom of the back, and is fastened on to two buttons sewn on the top of the back part of train. The edges are usually trimmed with a narrow silk braid, sewn on flat, and the body and the sleeves lined with light colored silk. Ball buttons and fancy silk buttons are generally used. Five or six buttons are sewn on at the hind-arm; the two lower holes only are worked open.

Some ladies affect a certain tone of severity in their riding-habits, and eschewing all fictitious aids by way of adornment to the bodies have made them perfectly plain, with the edges turned in and stitched, and smoked pearl or vegetable ivory shank buttons.

Veils are no longer considered correct, no doubt because they may be considered too effeminate in character and out of place with the “billy-cock” hat.

The train, as now worn, is only cut a few inches longer than the walking length. It is turned up at the bottom, with a narrow hem only, and the V’s taken out at the seams are covered with ribbon.

Colored habits are being worn in rich shades of brown, olive and green—not too light. Blue and black are also worn. The small diagonal elastic coating and Venetian cloth are preferred on account of their making up so satisfactorily. Dress meltons and tweeds are also worn, but the makes are not so appropriate.

One inevitable consequence of short and scanty trains is the necessity for every lady, taking equestrian exercise, to wear riding trousers. They are usually made of the same cloth as the habit, with a fly-front open to leg-seam, or with a long opening at each side-seam and a button and button-hole in the centre, and a narrow strap at bottom.”

In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for all numbers on the draft. But in drafting it to measure use the same principle as laid down for waists, and lengthen the skirt as on Figure 7 and draw the skirt like that on last Figure.

FIG. 32. CIRCULAR.

Draw lines O-5 and O-J. From O to J is one-fourth of breast. From O to H is one-third of breast. Lay the pattern of the back against H and 1½ inch inside of line at the waist. Lay also the pattern of the front against the shoulder of the back near F and touching front-line at J. Draw along the top of the back from H to 1, and add to the pattern at 1, for seams, one-half inch. Draw from 1 to F and from 2, on the front shoulder, to F. From J, along the front of the body-pattern, draw a straight line to 4. Now from 1 and 2 draw a line and make a point in the centre at 3. Apply the length from H to 5 for full length of what the garment should be, and using point 3 as a pivot sweep from 5 to the front for the lower or bottom edge; then square the bottom at 5, and in front at 4, as shown in the Figure.

[Illustration: Fig. 32.]

If a seam is wanted draw a line through the centre from F and take out about 3 inches at bottom, starting from 6 to 7 and 6 to 8.

For a close back, curve from H along the back to 1½ and thence to 5 at bottom.

FIGS. 33 AND 34. RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.

In making a pattern of this garment we first draw a line on the edge of paper and make a point on the right end, as O. From O down place three-fourths of an inch. From O to I is one-half of breast measure, or 9 inches, for a 36 size. Between O and I is J. H and I are at right angles with first back-line. From I over on the line place one-third of breast, equal to 6 inches, and add 1 inch, making in all 7 inches, and draw a line up to 5. Next, from O on top line place 2 or 2½ inches and curve from ¾ to 2½.

[Illustration: Fig. 33.]

Measure down from ¾ to D, the length of waist, say 15 inches, and the whole length to R. Go in from straight line at D 1½ inch and curve the right back-seam from ¾ to 1½ and R.

Make the back, at waist, 4 inches wide and curve from 5 through waist at 11 to 12 at bottom. The run of this line should be nearly straight past V and curving at 11, and should also be wider at bottom, about 1 inch more than from D to 11. From 2½ draw a line raising it one-half inch at 5.

For the front (Figure 34) draw a straight line from O to J. From O down to a is one-eighth of breast, equal to 2¼ inches. From O to B is one-sixth of breast, or 3 inches. From O to K is one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches. Square lines across at all these points. From O to A, the neck, is one-sixth of breast.

Lay the back on to the point A and extreme shoulder resting on the line at C. Now draw along the back shoulder while it is in this position, and also curve from C to 12, which should only be 4 inches below C.

From K go out to H one-quarter of the breast, less 1 inch, equal to 8 inches. Having established this we can curve the shoulder easier, as seen by dotted lines. Measure from K over on the line one-half of breast, equal to 18 inches, and one-third of breast, or 6 inches, added.

Now lay the back-line against this last point in such a way that point 5 of the back will rest on line A-13, and so that it will be placed as seen in Figure 35. Then carefully measure to see if the distance from K-H and to the back-line will be exactly one-halt and one-third of breast, or 27 inches. Then curve from 12 to 13 to 14 down the back and reducing it at the bottom about 4 inches from the position as it would be when the back is laid as stated.

Now by the length of the back regulate that of the front, and then sweep by the point of shoulder A from 10 to J. This latter point, and part of this round, as produced by the sweep, should be shortened about 1 inch. Curve the neck from A to B, and add 1 inch all along the front for a turn-in hem.

From where the back lies against the wing, at O, draw the curve to 13 on the top of sleeve head.

The upper part of the sleeve-head should be gathered-in considerable, and at O a notch should be placed to facilitate the sewing in, for notch should be sewn on notch. (See Figure 35.)

[Illustration: Fig. 34.]

FIG. 35. CLOSED CIRCULAR.

After this has been drawn the same as the Russian circular, lay it against the front and cut without a seam from O down to the bottom. For this shape, after the shoulders are seamed up, gather in the round of sleeve from O forward. The same can be cut like the circular; also cut off in front from top, past V, to the bottom, in a straight line down from B. This makes a wrap with a back wing and a front. When cut in this manner an opening can be left for the hands to go through, as shown on the Figure, below E.

[Illustration: Fig. 35.]

A short cape, such as have been worn for some time in Europe, and are just making their appearance here, is cut like this, reaching, however, only to the waist. This same wrap can be cut from a dolman pattern by laying the sleeve of a dolman on to front so that the front notches come together and the two patterns close together some distance above, or till within 4 or 5 inches of the top of the shoulder, then draw along sleeve-top past the back of the sleeve.

If a line is drawn through the shoulder-point, next to the sleeve, at right angles with the front, and the back shoulder-point laid on this line and closing against the sleeve at blade, it will represent exactly this circular cape, and will be one of the easiest ways to make it. The Figure shows the outline of the dolman sleeve by the dotted line from E forward, as it appears when lying in position.