Part 3

From 14 to 13 is 2 inches, and make the distance from 11 to 12 the same; now draw a straight line from 12 to 14, and down to the bottom.

Go out from 15 to 16 one inch, and curve seam from 14 to 19, which should not be over 1½ inch outside of straight line. Draw line from 20 to 19.

THE FRONT.

Lay the side-body on breast-line and back in position against side-body, so that the breast-line of each lays correct and straight, then measure from I on centre of the back to the centre of the front D, half-breast, or 18 inches; at this last point draw a line up and down for front line.

[Illustration]

Point 12 of the side-body will now be the same as point 21 of the front; draw down to 27 a line with a slight curve to shape in at waist; also draw a straight line down from 27 to 35 at bottom.

From P to C is one-sixth, or 3 inches, and the same to 23, now sweep the neck from P.

From C, which is one-half inch above the top line for erect or ordinary builds, on the line draw one to B on the back.

Now measure the length of shoulder on the back from 5 to 4, and place the same from C to 22, and curve a little above it, as shown in Fig. 15. From G on side-body forward to front of arm is one-fourth, or 4½ inches, where a line is drawn from H; then finish arm-hole from 22 to H and 21.

Finish the side-seam by going out at 31 1 inch to 33, and curve seam to 34; also locate the length by laying the side-body, point 12, on 21, and where 19 comes is 34.

From C, by 34, sweep the bottom of front and straighten this some in the centre.

At the centre of breast-line, beyond D, put one-half of breast, and curve the front line from 23 to waist at S, where it comes back to the straight line, and thence to the bottom at 30, where it is one-half inch outside of it. For a double-breasted jacket make the lap 2½ inches at breast, 2 at waist, and 2¼ at bottom. Whatever the size of the draft at waist, from points S to 1½ on back, exceeds the actual measure must be taken out in darts.

In this Figure we take out one dart only, starting in the centre, J, which is between H and D, and take out between points 25 and 26, the full amount which will be about 2½ or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24, two-thirds above 25, and finishing about 4 inches below the hip-line.

In case two darts are preferred they are put in as already shown in previous Figures.

FIG. 16. SACK JACKET.

This shows the manner of drafting a jacket with an extra piece under the arm and only one dart in the front. The correctness of the lines, and the simplicity of the process, will be of much benefit to our students. This method is the same as we have given in several different styles, and therefore it is drafted in a similar manner. It requires only one method to draft all kinds of garments, and our aim in giving the different shapes is to familiarize our readers with its application to a variety of shapes and styles, so that whatever garment they may be called to cut they will be able to do it.

[Illustration]

Let us take a size—36 breast, 24 waist, with a length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching down from neck 15½ inches.

In drafting, first draw the line O-F.

From O go down three-fourths inch for the top of the back.

From the top of the back to D is the length to the waist, 15½ inches; from the same point down to the bottom of the garment measure 30 inches to F.

At D go in to point 14 1½ inch. Then from the top of the back to 14 draw a straight line, and also draw one from 14 to F, curve slightly over the line below 14, past 20, to F. Make the width from 14 to 2 two inches, and run a line parallel with back-line from 2 to 29, and curve it a trifle, as shown on the Figure.

From O go down to C one-quarter of the breast, which is 9 inches, and draw a line across. Draw a line from O over to K at right angles with the back-line.

In the middle, between O and C, fix a point marked B and draw a line over to N. From C to G is one-third breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches, and draw a line at right angles with line C-G. From G to H is one-fourth breast, equal to 4½ inches, there draw a line at right angles with the one under arm.

From 1, centre of back, to J, at the front of the breast, place one-half of the breast-measure, equal to 18 inches, and at J draw a right angle line up and down like line K-J and S. From O to 13 is 2 inches.

From N to 13 draw a line, and then, commencing at 13, curve the shoulder, letting it rise above the last line one-half inch to 14.

Starting three-fourths inch inside of line G begin to curve the arm-hole past 12 to 17 and H. In the middle, between N and G, fix the point to start seams from for the back. Draw line from thence past 19 to 2 and 29—this makes the back with narrow shoulders.

To draw the first side-body place from 2 to 3 one inch, curve the line from 19 to 3, gradually beginning to separate below 19 without curving too much, care being taken to get a neat curve. Below 3 curve toward the back till at hip, 21, it will meet the back, and thence downwards, till at the bottom it will over-lap the back 1 inch to 30.

Make the width of side-body at the top any distance desired, say 3 inches, and make it the same at waist, or from 3 to 4, 3 inches. Then curve from 17 to 4.

Lay a long straight-edge, closing at 17, and three-fourths inch from point 4; while in this position mark a line along it from the hip-line downward, and connect it by a curve from 4 to 24.

Go in from 4 to 5 a distance of three-fourths inch, and curve from 17 to 5, but be careful to commence to separate side-body only 1½ inch below 17. Lay a straight-edge, as before, at 17, and three-fourths inch from 5, so that it will lay towards front, then from hip downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from 5 to meet this at hip, 23.

From 17 to 18 may be only 1½ or 2 inches, according to the size—2 inches will be sufficient for a 36 breast.

Draw a straight line to 6 and take out a slight curve to shape it to the form. Again, lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 6, and mark along it from the hips downward; curve from 6 to hip.

Commencing at 18, curve the front to 7, taking out one-half inch, then lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 7 mark along it below the hips and finish the curve from 7 to 25.

To produce the front, place from K to P one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, also the same from K to 16. From P to B draw a line, then place the same distance as on the back shoulder from 13 to 24 on to P to produce point 15, or the length of front shoulder, curve it above this line, and at 15 drop it one-half inch below. At 15 curve the arm-hole to H, going outside of the line enough to give the arm-hole a good shape, but under no consideration go beyond point H—rather go inside.

Curve the front-line one-fourth inch inside of 16, and outside at J one-half inch, and coming back to R, where it should spring out to the bottom one-half inch at S.

Add beyond last curve 1 inch for the lap, on a single-breasted jacket, all the way down.

Measure from 14 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6, and 7 to R, which will be about 15 inches; but as the waist must be 12 inches, or one-half of 24, we must take out the difference in a dart, which is 3 inches. Divide the space between H and J which gives point I, and from this draw a straight line down. Go down from I 2 inches to 17. On each side of the line at 9 place one-half of the dart, 1½ inch, then curve from 17 to 8, 27 and 35; also from the same point to 10, 28 and 36. At the bottom it should be three-fourths inch.

[Illustration: Fig. 16.]

The bottom of the first side-body must be one-half inch longer than the back; the second the same length as the first; and the front must start at the same length as the second, and curve forward 1 inch below line 33 to 37.

FIG. 17. SHORT JACKET.

This gives a short jacket, of a neat, peculiar shape. As regards the darts all points are the same as given in Fig. 18, except that instead of putting in two side-bodies we only cut a dart out under the arm, and one across the front, both being equal, of a size required to make the waist lay close. The dart in front is started from H and runs into the pocket.

[Illustration: Fig. 17.]

The back is made 4 inches wide at the waist and wide enough at the bottom to harmonize with it. Point F is the hip. Any sleeve cut to the size of arm-hole will go with this.

FIG. 18. JERSEY BLOUSE.

Draw line O-J and O-F. From O to D is one-fourth of breast. From O to 20 is three-fourths inch. From O to D take one-half the distance to get point B, and in the centre, between B and D, is point C. From 20 to E is length of back and to F the full length.

[Illustration: Fig. 18.]

Go in from E 1½ inch and draw the back-line from 20 to 1½ and to F. From O is 2 inches for top of back to 2. From D is one-third of breast and 1 inch to G. Draw a line up from G to 6. From 6 draw one to 2 and curve 1 inch above it at 1.

Curve arm-hole from 1 through 9 to 10. From G to H is one-fourth of breast—4½ inches on a 36 breast. Draw a line up. From back, near D, to K is one-half of breast. Draw line up and down. From J back to I is one-sixth of breast, and the same down to 3.

From I to 6 draw a line. Curve above line at 18 one-half inch for front shoulder, and curve the arm-hole from 18 to 17, and H to 10. Point 10 is about 1½ inch from G.

Make the width of back 5½ inches from 1½ and 9½ inches to point 10, and 10 inches at bottom. Then curve the side-seam at 10 to 5½ and U. From N, at front of the waist, go in 3 inches, to 16 4½ inches, and to 4 6 inches.

Draw a straight line up and down through 16, and form the dart, from 20, through 3 and 4, to 5 and 6.

Lay the back on the front to meet at 10, 5½ on V, 8 on U, to get the right curve for the side seam.

Measure the waist and make the distance at V to correspond with it. Using I as pivot sweep from 8 for the bottom of the front.

Add one-half inch button-stand, and 1 inch on the side the buttons are sewed on. Buttons should be 1 inch apart.

The Jersey is finished with standing collar.

This pattern is intended only for goods which are elastic—like stockinet or tweed.

The seams in the dart and at side should be stretched somewhat in pressing, thus allowing them to fit closer to the form.

FIG. 19. GIRL’S SACK.

[Illustration]

This is a sack for a young girl of size 31 breast, close-fitting. The figure illustrates a very jaunty and comfortable jacket.

For the Fall Season it should be made of heavy ribbed cloaking, of a dark shade of grey, and an extra neat finish is obtained by binding it with a braid of a darker shade, and buttons to match the braid.

It has eight buttons in front, is cut single-breasted, with a very small turn-over lapel, which allows it to be buttoned up close to the neck.

A side edge is imitated on the back by braid, and three buttons put on it.

The full-size pattern may be cut by following the Figure, as represented, using inches for every number marked out.

In order that this may be readily understood we will go over this manner of doing it again, so that our readers who desire to take them off may not make any mistakes.

First draw a line on the edge of paper, and draw out the back first, by fixing a point at the top.

O is the starting point. From O go down in inches as indicated by the points marked ¾, 2¾, 5¾, 13, 20 and 34.

Draw lines across from these points and apply the numbers on the Figure to these lines. When all these points are fixed connect the points by lines, which will form the outlines of the back.

For the side-body use the same process and you will have the full size. It can be made double-breasted by adding 1½ inch in front of the breast all the way down.

[Illustration: Fig. 19.]

FIG. 20. BRAIDED JACKET.

This Figure represents a fashionable style of close-fitting jackets for Spring wear. They are made single-breasted, having the buttons close together, and have the appearance of a Jersey. The same may be made double-breasted by the addition of 2 inches to the front. In trimming they may be plain, with nothing but small flat lasting, or a round crochet button. Braid in military style may be used, or a simple binding.

The Figure is drawn from a pattern of a 36 breast, 25 waist; the length may be regulated to taste. In drafting this pattern use inches for all the figures on the draft.

[Illustration: Fig. 20.]

FIG. 21. DOUBLE-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET.

This gives an elegant and very stylish jacket. The front is double-breasted towards the top with a broad, sharp lap, while at the waist only one button is used.

In order to enlarge the draft to full size, which is a 36 inch breast-measure, use inches for all the figures on the draft.

The jacket itself is finished at the neck with a collar, which is put on to the cape. The front, at the neck, is held together by an agraffe ornament. This garment, as it should appear, may be seen by the illustration.

[Illustration: Fig. 21.]

FIG. 22. LADY’S JACKET.

These drafts illustrate a new style of lady’s jacket, which will be acceptable to many for street wear. The style and general effect at once denote the character of the garment. The jacket is well adapted for outdoor wear. It is made with a moderate addition for double-breasted added on to the fore-part, and the button holes are worked in close together, as the buttons now used are so very small; therefore, on this jacket, they are placed only one inch apart.

The waist is medium length, and the skirt can be made to suit the height of the lady. A lap-over is made at the centre of the back skirt, finished off with small buttons put close together.

The pockets may be put in at the side like a coat pocket, or only a flap put on, leaving the top edge unfastened, which forms the opening. In the latter case it can be ornamented with buttons. Pockets, however, are only put in when it is cut longer than Figure.

The sleeves are narrow, finished by a row of buttons, and can be regulated in width by the measure of the arm. This is very essential, as ladies now-a-days like the sleeve as close as possible.

The darts are cut down to the bottom, which is more preferable to running them to a point, as a seam looks better which runs continuously to the bottom. Cutting the dart so that it reaches only to the hip, will, unless carefully made, rise up in a puff at its lower end. It must always be borne in mind that the spring must be allowed to rise at the side-seam. The sudden rise of a lady’s hip, and the marked difference between the size of the waist and of the body but a few inches below, make it extremely difficult to obtain the necessary amount of freedom for the prominence of the figure at this part of the body.

The bottom edge of this jacket should be edged on the inside by a facing of silk, which is held on tight so that the edge may cling close to the dress-skirt.

The collar is cut like a coat-collar and the lapel rolls short. A narrow binding one-half inch wide is put on the edge on all goods with a close and firm texture, while on heavy, loose material, the stitching looks more appropriate.

[Illustration: Fig. 22.]

The button-holes run down to the bottom of the skirt. This form of jacket makes up well in fine diagonal or brocaded velvet.

For heavy winter wear, rough suiting will make very stylish garments.

The lower edge of this jacket may be drawn straight across instead of curving up over the hips as on the Figure, and then it is equally as well adapted to be worn with any dress, as in the shape we illustrate.

FIG. 23. SINGLE-BREASTED LONG SACK.

Figure 23 represents a long, close-fitting, single-breasted sack, consisting of back, side-body, front and sleeve. They are all drawn by measuring the lines, and placing the number of inches on each line as designated by the numbers shown on the Figure. Thus, for the back draw a straight line from O, then apply each measure as shown, and draw the lines across at right angles with the line O. When these figures are all located, finish by drawing the outlines.

Draw the straight line O down to the desired length for the side-body; at 28½ apply the figures on the lines—when these are all fixed curve the outlines.

For the front, draw the straight line down from O, and mark the number of inches for both length and width; when these are all fixed finish the outlines.

[Illustration: Fig. 23.]

The sleeve is drawn from O down to the required length, applying the number of inches for length as well as width, as shown; after these have all been found, and the line drawn at right angles with the line O, draw the outlines. After the upper part of the sleeve has been drawn cut it out; then locate the points for the under-sleeve, and lay the back of upper-sleeve against the points of the back part of the under-sleeve, and draw it like the back of upper-sleeve; fix the points in front, and lay the upper-sleeve on and draw for the front of sleeve, then finish for top, as shown.

FIG. 24. JACKET OR CLOAK—FROM A WAIST PATTERN.

The method which is explained below is one of the most handy, as well as the easiest, that can be used, and will invariably produce good results. It is evident, in the first place, that the original pattern must have the essential qualities of fit and good lines, otherwise it would be of little value as a base or guide to produce another garment. In order to get such a waist pattern one must be able to design it, or have it on hand; in the latter case we are prepared to furnish these patterns when ordered.

THE BACK:

In drafting a jacket pattern, first draw a line (like O-G) on the edge of your paper. Lay the back against the line at O and within 1½ inch of the line at the waist, then trace along the centre seam from O to 5. Now move it one-fourth inch away, this is for seam; then the same quantity is allowed above at neck from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3.

Along the arm-hole, from 3 to 4, trace close to the pattern. Measure next the length wanted from O to 5 and 9 and draw a line over to 10. From 5 to 9 draw a straight line, and then curve outside of this, at point 8, about one-half inch, as shown on Figure.

Make the width of waist any size desired, say 3 inches, which establishes point 7, and from this point draw a line down to 10. This line should be no further away from the first line at 10 than at 7, or the distance from the line 9 to 10 should be the same as at waist, from 1½ to 7. Now, starting at 4, slightly curve to 7 and go one-half inch outside of straight line to 10.

THE SIDE-BODY.

In this case, as on the back, the first thing we do is to draw a straight line from O to 10. Now lay the side-body against it, at O, and swing it away from the line at the waist 1¼ inch. Trace along the pattern from O to 1¼. Then move the pattern one-fourth inch away from the last line, which would leave from 1 to 3 just one-fourth inch for the seam. From 5 to 6 go in one-half the distance allowed over and above the allowance on the back, as from 6 to 7. Now curve the side-body from 2 to 5, keeping as nearly as possible the same shape as the original. Then from 5 draw a line down parallel with the first line which runs from O to 10. Now apply the back from 2 to 9 and regulate the length, which is point 9; then from 5 curve one-half inch outside of straight line at 8 to 9. At 9, square across to 10, and also draw a straight line from 1¼ to 10, and begin to curve from 3, past 7, to 10. This curve should be more round near hip, or begin to curve closer to the waist. The curves on the back and on the side seam, from 5 to 8, may be gradual, as it thus has the appearance of being longer waisted than it actually is.

THE FRONT.

[Illustration: Fig. 24.]