Part 12

This diagram represents the sleeve system. On the top square line from the front base, or at 45 deg. from the back, the sleeve and the shoulder should lap about 2, or as much as possible to form a nice curve toward the front seam. A short top sleeve on the angles of 45 and 60 deg. will draw both the front and the back seams out of shape. A top sleeve is better too long at these points than too short, because the top sleeve can easily be reduced, but if that lap is too short, the back and the front seams will be drawn upward, and will be too long at the armhole, while at the hand the sleeve is that much too short. Whenever the under sleeve appears too long on either seam, it shows that the top sleeve is too short. At 60 deg. the diagram shows 2¼, which may be taken as the smallest portion to be given there, and may be made 2½. (See Dia. II.) The armhole and sleeve should lap 1 to 2 seams on the front sleeve base, and if the armhole is cut larger than the diagram, the sleeve must follow, which, of course, must change the lap at 60 deg.

The armhole, as it is shown in Dia. VII, is for a close-fitting armhole, but there is no law to prevent it from being cut further forward and downward, providing the sleeve follows. (See description of sleeve as shown in Dia. X.)

NOTE: Dia. II, II A and VIII B were made one year later and show the top connections of sleeve and armhole in a different way, and they also show the armhole larger all around. Stooping forms with prominent shoulder blades require their armholes still further forward, but I have never found a stooping form who required his armholes more than ⅝ in front of 45 deg., and such forms should have the back that much wider. The armhole ⅜ back of 45 deg. for the arms thrown back and ⅝ in front of 45 deg. for the arms thrown forward may be considered the limit for both extremes.

[Illustration: _Dia. 7._]

DIA. VIII.

Is a sack with three seams and with a straight front. As long as a cutter is able to cut a straight front, he will have little trouble to cut any shape of a cutaway for either sack or frock. As shown in the diagram, the height of the back above line 9 over the front is placed at 13½, the same as in Dia. III. This height of back will make the back plenty short for the normal form, and it may be called rather short, but any coat back is better ¼ inch too short than ¼ inch too long, for if short, it can easily be stretched at the center and over the shoulder blade, and such stretching, if done properly, will improve all such sack coats, because the center of the back as far over to the shoulder blade of any person are always longer than the sides.

On a frock coat, the shortness at the sides is reduced by a small gore between the top of sidepiece and the back, because of the curved seam, but on the more straight sack seam, said reduction can not so well be made, except by cutting the back shorter, and stretching it again behind, at, and as far over as the shoulder blade.

For a double-breasted front, add 1 inch to the front of Dia. VIII—cut a gore under the lapel, and add to the top and front of the lapel, whatever that gore takes up. Set the buttons back accordingly.

Dia. VIII is made for the same form as is Dia. II, that is for a slender form and small waist, and if the waist is to be more full, or the armholes are to be quite loose for working coats, reduce the gore between the fore part and back one half inch clear down, starting at line 11¼. The armhole is represented close-fitting, requiring it to be well stretched, but it may be cut forward to the base and in every respect made like Dia. II. The same may be done to Dia. VIIIa.

[Illustration: _Dia. VIII._]

DIA. VIIIa.

This diagram is made especially for the erect form, but may be used for the normal form by placing the depth of back at 12¾ above line 9. As the diagram is, it simply gives the result of the closing of the ⅝ fold, as shown across the waist in Dia. VIII. Erect forms usually require small coats in the back, and in the armhole, and for this reason, such forms should be cut one size smaller than the measure, and ½ inch should be allowed in front, to balance the size.

The front is given with a pretty large roll and the upper part may be used for a double-breasted sack, while meeting the front edge and the front angle in front of line 15 and by going forward 4 numbers at line 30. The gore between the back and sidepiece may be reduced to 2 at line 20 and to 1½ at line 30. The height of the back, above line 9 is 1¼ number shorter than on Dia. VIII, and which is accounted for as follows: The fold across the waist which is obtained from above is ⅝, and the side of the sidepiece is stretched upward ⅝ on the forepart, all of which requires the back to be 1¼ shorter above line 9. If the sidepiece is stretched less, the back must be so much longer, and for a good many forms ⅜ stretch may be plenty, in which case the height of back is to be 12½.

[Illustration: _Dia. VIIIa._]

DIA. IX.

Dia. IX is made to illustrate the changes of the shoulders from the normal to the long or short neck. For this purpose the shoulders on each back and front are made equally high, and the coat armhole connected evenly all around. This diagram being on the square of 17½ would require a coat to lap 2 seams somewhere. The diagram itself shows a vest on the angle of 15 deg. and in a square of 17½, with a gore under the arm of 3¼. But the main object of Dia. IX is to illustrate the height of the shoulders; and extra length or extra shortness of the shoulder must be produced as shown by dots, and is further explained in the articles on “Long Necks” and “Square Shoulders.”

This diagram also shows a shoulder slope of 30 deg., for the reason that the base is on the front plumb line and not on the center of the front. The front plumb line is 15 deg. back of the center, hence from it each front and back shoulder slope is 7½ deg. out of its normal position. If the diagram were made on the square of 20, the armhole could not be connected all around, as it must be on the body. This diagram represents a complete armhole, after the under arm seam is sewed, and the coat is built around it.

[Illustration: _Dia. IX._]

DIA. X.

Dia. X is a five-seamer overcoat for the normal, but leaning toward the erect form. The armhole is cut full forward to 45 deg., and the sleeve base moved forward two seams, or ⅜ inches. The sleeve part of this diagram makes a close sleeve head, and a lap at 60 deg. may be made ¼ to ½ more, and at 45 deg. it may be made ¼ more or any amount required to make a nice curve. The bottom of the armhole is plenty low, and the gusset on the top of the under sleeve fits it. The width of the shoulders may be made 9 at 60 deg. A half-inch lap between the armhole and sleeve at the back sleeve center, or at line 8, will make the whole sleeve extra easy, though the back sleeve may hang a trifle loose when the arm hangs down, but this ½ inch extra length must not be accounted for in the sleeve-length.

The square of the coat is 18¾ only, which is ½ less than the regular calculation would bring it. An overcoat must be close-fitting, at and around the arm, though the armhole must be plenty large. Dia. X was made over a 39 pattern and if that same draft is measured and laid out with a scale of 38, the square will be 19¼, which 19¼ numbers correspond to the square of 18 on a three-seamer, taking in consideration the gore and the seams under the arm on a five-seamer. To cut over Dia. X the measure must be taken close over the undercoat, and the measure over the vest will make the fit not too close.

[Illustration: _Dia. X._]

DIA. Xa.

Is a three-seamed overcoat, and must be reproduced and made as fine work requires it, and the person who wears it must be well built, and with a rather small waist and seat. All clothing worn under the overcoat should be neat and well fitting. Erect persons should have the height of back at 13. The sleeve shown in Dia. X corresponds to Dia. Xa. The collar must be sewed on easy, on and along the sides. The whole front edge may be made ½ inch smaller than Dia. X.

[Illustration: _Dia. Xa._]

DIA. XI.

Dia. XI represents the garment in a three-fourths circle and on a square of 20. The circle itself would make the vest too short, but it represents the correct run of the bottom.

[Illustration: _Dia. 11._]

DIA. XII.

Dia. XII represents the same as the foregoing in a three-fourths circle, but on a square of 17½, also the equilateral triangle of 35 numbers. Each of the Dia. XI and XII are one square cut from the center of a circle, and in order to make it as simple as possible the vest is again used. The bottom of the forepart is on the circle, but that would make a short vest, and for this reason the back shows 1½ longer.

[Illustration: _Dia. 12._]

DIA. XIIa.

Dia. XIIa is made to illustrate all points obtained from the center of a circle, or from a point of the angle of 135 deg. All it requires is to lengthen the lines, so that they are long enough for the full scale. Any other point in any other garment may be found in the same way.

[Illustration: _Dia. XIIa._]

DIA. XIII.

This diagram I consider very valuable for illustration, because it represents an entire garment from neck to ankle in one continuous form, and on slopes in perfect harmony with the slopes of the body, running to a point at each end, each point at an angle of 15 deg., and both joined at the widest part, representing the largest part of the body, but cut off at the neck and at the feet. The upper part again represents the vest, as the simplest garment worn by man. The starting point for the garment is at a point where the angle of 15 deg. has a width of 17½ numbers. The connecting points of the two angles of 15 deg. are at the front of the waist, or at the pit of the stomach, where the body turns backward, upward and downward, and at the largest part of the seat. The lower point of the angle of 15 deg. is a center for the pants, from which center all connection for the seams may be swept with certainty. And, although this point is not convenient to sweep from for every pants we cut, a cutter must know from what point he can obtain his balance without going to the point—all of which is fully described in the article on “Pants.”

[Illustration: _Dia. 13._]

DIA. XIV.

This is simply the lower part of Dia. XIII, but the sides are closely connected on the angle of 15 deg., showing the pants in one solid sheet, which will fit the form of the bare body from waist to ankle. This diagram is in such a position that a new beginner may learn how to produce a nice slope for the side seam. But it is intended to serve for other and more important illustrations. It is to illustrate more fully the so-called back slope.

The upper part, or the waist, is in a perfect square from the front base. If the front and the back bases are laid on top of each other, all the sweeps from point 80 will fit together and the whole front and back will lay in position as most all pants are cut. From the position of this diagram, there is no side, nor back slope; it is simply a square block, consequently, the so-called back slope is only an imagination. But the most important point to illustrate is the following:

Considering the ankles 1¼ inches apart, will give to each side ⅝, and the front base line would run down parallel with the center of the front, though slanting backward, and parallel with the front of the leg. Now, it is true, the lower part of Dia. XIV is on an angle of 15 deg., but the upper part is also on a square, and we will now consider the back square line finished clear down to the bottom of a pants, and cut out a square sheet of stiff paper, as long as a pants may be and as wide as the seat requires to go around it, say 40 inches both ways, and place it on and around the body of a person whose front of abdomen does not reach outside of a straight line, running parallel with the front slope of the legs, and in this position the sheet will fit to the body all along down in front, as well as the back of the waist from the seat upward. The center of the front and the center of the back run parallel up and forward and the square sheet will fit it, but at the top of the side, and at the bottom of the side and at the bottom of the back the square sheet, wound around the body will be too large, and must be reduced as follows: On top of side of waist one or two gores are cut to represent the difference between the seat hip and waist measure. The bottom at the side and at the back is reduced from a square to a slope of 15 deg., all of which is taken off from behind. It should be observed on Dia. XIV that the center of the front and the center of the back seams run parallel upward and forward above the seat lines, and from the seat lines downward, both the front and back forks start outward of the square, all of which is to be turned inward to pass forward and backward between the legs.

The square sheet must be considered for the outside cover, as though the legs were grown together. Again, a square sheet must be considered so adjusted to the upper body that the square sheet closes in all around the front from top to bottom, and from the seat to the waist in the back, but stands off at the bottom behind where the square is to be reduced to an angle of 15 deg. from seat to bottom. Whatever such a square, wound around the upper body is too large at the waist, must be reduced by one large or by two small gores at the top of side, and it will be found that the reduction of the angle of 7½ deg. is always the difference between the seat and waist measure, and if the waist is as large as the seat, no reduction is required, and if the waist is larger than the seat, allowance must be made at the side and in front. If that division is not properly made the crotch will show the fault, because the sides will take up their share, whether they have too much or too little cloth.

[Illustration: _Dia. XIV._]

DIA. XV.

The figure on this diagram is poorly drawn, but it serves to illustrate. It gives the side view of the crotch, and illustrates why a larger waist must receive more cloth in front than a normal waist. Fig. I shows the pants from the front or back view, but this gives the side view, the back running backward and the front forward and away from the body. In this position the pants must be considered as in opposite position to Dia. XIV, and connected on the crotch seams. Dia. XV is intended to illustrate the bases for the small waist as well as for the large waist. On the small waist the body of the waist is even with the front pants base, but when the waist becomes larger the base will have to be considered as located inside of the front of the abdomen, as shown on the figure. When the base strikes the front of the body, as on a small waist, the front can be swung sidewise and backward on a straight line, and the back can be swung forward and sidewise, but in order to conform to the seat the back must form the sack for the seat first.

When both the front and the back is settled to the shape of the body, the center of each runs up and down and parallel above the seat line. The larger waist extends outside of the base and after the front is swung sidewise, to the side of the back, the front of the pants must be considered to be brought forward to the front of the body, the hinge being at the side, and when the front of the pants is swung forward with the hinge or swing fastened to the side, the centre of front is too small and must be supplied with extra width. Pants, as well as coats, are fitted from the side forward to the front and from the side backward to the back, and if the diameter of the center of the body from back to front is larger than on the normal form, the ends of the front will not reach the centre of the body in front and more waist proportion must be allowed there. The back must be considered stationary and requires no allowance behind, but may require allowance at the side if the waist is well filled up there. (See Dia. XX.)

In case of a back or forward leaning waist, Dia. XV will show that the crotch must be considered stationary, and the crotch must also be considered as a hinge on which the upper body swings back and forward, and that if the backward leaning waist requires ½ inch less cloth on top of front, the top of back must receive that ½ inch again, or else the so-called back slope will become too large.

[Illustration: _Dia. XV._]

The descriptions of Dias. XIII, XIV and XV should be well considered by every cutter. I have figured on them for over twelve years and the result is here given. Others might have done it in less time, but so far as I know, nobody has done it yet.

DIA. XVI.

Dia. XVI shows the front and back of equal width except the tops of each.

DIA. XVII.

This presents the small front and wide back.

DIA. XVIII.

Dia. XVIII illustrates the principle of the fold in the seat, and the back and dress front nearly alike.

[Illustration: _Dia. 16._ _Dia. 17._ _Dia. 18._]

DIA. XIX.

Represents pants of the present style and fashion. The waist is as short as it ought to be for fine pants. Contrast the length of the waist with Dia, XXI. Dia. XIX is calculated for a size 38 seat with a knee 19 inches wide. If this is laid out with a 35 scale, the knee will become 17½ inches wide, which is a good width for a close fitting pants, which will soon come in style again. When small pants legs come in style again, the crotch of such pants will have to be reduced about one seam, and at the bottom the centre will be the same centre, while at the knee the centre of the angle of 10 deg. is also a guide, but there the outside requires about ½ less than the inside, because the inside of the leg is straight, while the outside is hollow.

[Illustration: DIA. XIX.]

DIA. XX.

This diagram was made over a pants pattern of the following proportion: Seat, 46 in.; Hip, 47; actual waist measure, 46; waist as made up, 49 in.; knee, 22½; and bottom, 20½ in.

[Illustration: _Dia. XX._]

DIA. XXI.

This diagram was made for the purpose of illustrating a pants with a high waist, and how it is to be cut on top in order to have such a pants feel good around the short ribs, and still fitting at the hollow of the waist. The more spring such a pants has near the short ribs, the better it will be. But the buckle straps must be set low, or at the hollow of the waist, so they do not draw that width backward. For the sake of making a change, I have thrown the top of front of the dress side out ¾ and the undress side is to be ⅜.

[Illustration: DIA. XXI.]

DIA. XXII and XXIII.

Are the same thing. They are here reproduced to give a correct idea of the so-called “back slope.” Both are turned from point 80, or from the point of the angle of 7½ deg. All connections, or nicks for the seams are on the sweeps from point 80. The leg seams are dislocated, but the balance is the same, and both will fit the same when on the body, and I claim that there never was a truer pants system produced than is represented by these two diagrams.

The complete angles of the different degrees are not made, but the base line, running down to 80, is on the same spot on all foreparts. From point 80 the forepart of Dia. XXII is thrown forward, and in Dia. XXIII it is thrown sidewise, all of which may be imitated on a pants leg, after it is sewed up. Now it will be noticed that each of the two diagrams has a double side, on which it makes no difference where the nicks are located, as long as they are on top of each other, but the disconnected sides must be nicked by the sweeps from point 80.

Five years ago I sent the principle of Dia. XXII and XXIII to the publisher of the “AMERICAN TAILOR,” and the answer may be found in the “AMERICAN TAILOR” of November, 1886, page 98. But as other questions were involved in the same article, and as the “AMERICAN TAILOR” pleased to notice me in 1883 about a certain challenge, I will reproduce the whole of it.

[Illustration: _Dia. XXII._]

[Illustration: _Dia. XXIII._]

[Illustration: PATRIARCH MILITANT.]

[Illustration: CLERGYMAN’S COAT.]

In 1882 I had the following advertisement in the Tiffin papers, of which I sent a copy to the “AMERICAN TAILOR”:

TO THE PUBLIC.

Having spent the best part of the last ten years in working out a scientific calculation of the outlines of the human body, I have, after endless ups and downs, discovered, and worked out, an entirely new and heretofore unthought of

PRINCIPLE OF GARMENT CUTTING.